Jeffrey Kruger wrote: > > ...I just uncovered a Locomotive Workshop Alco kit. I would like to try the S-2 > version of the kit. This will be my first attempt at brass kit building or engine > building. My first question is in the instructions it suggests "select a power unit > before starting construction." Are there any power units available commercially? > Or do I need to scratch build the power unit? > I also have two H-D Scale Models wood box car kits to build. I searched the S Gauge > Herald index to try a find a product review on this kit without success. These kits > came out in the 1970's I believe. My second question is there anyone who has had > the opportunity in building an H-D Model kit (who can remember) anything of > importance?
Jeff et al -- I have built the RS-1 version of this kit. At the time, Cascade Hobby Products had a power kit for this loco. These days, I would suggest a North Yard motorized chassis, available from Railmaster Exports. These are excellent units, already built up. See their website by going to Craig O'Connell's S Scale Model Railroading website (http://www.trainweb.org/crocon/sscale.html) and navigating from there. The H-D kits arrived on the scene in the early 1980s, after the Herald ceased publication (and before publication was resumed in 1987 or thereabouts). There is but a single H-D article in a 1982 "S Gaugian," but this is limited to converting the kit to a USRA double-sheathed car. There is no kit-review content. My suggestion would be to build the kit per the instructions and treat the experience as a learning opportunity. While I've not built one of these kits, I have built many, many wood kits. My favorite glue used to be Duco cement, but I can't find this anymore. So I buy Ambroid's acetate cement, in a tube, from my hobby shop. With wood, you need to seal the mating surfaces to be glued, else the glue won't adhere. I always apply the glue as if it will adhere, place the two parts together, then separate them. Then I rub the glue into each surface with a finger. When the parts are dry (a matter of about 15 seconds), I glue them together with another application of cement. If any squeezes out from beneath the joint, a small screwdriver blade will remove it bewfore it sets up permantly. Some people use Walthers "Goo." This is a sort of rubber cement, but very strong. I have seen decades-old cars built with this stuff, and the results are, well, unpleasant. Over time, the Goo can cause the wood to which it's applied to shrink, leaving gaps in the model. Others use Goodyear Pliobond, a similar glue but a better choice. An old friend of mine, Doc Schuster, used the "cement paint" method. He made a mixture of about two parts acetone and one part acetate glue (Duco or Ambroid). He would coat all parts to be glued with the mixture, brushed on. Then he would do his actual gluing by placing the mating parts together and then touching a small glue-wetted artist's paintbrush to the edge of the joint. Capillary action pulled the liquid glue into the joint for a firm bond -- just like we do with modern styrene kits like PRS cars. I have used this method with excellent results. However, our recent sensibilities about exposure to solvents may make this alternative unattractive. These days lots of people use wood glue, like Elmer's. I avoid this because its water content warps the wood. Others have success by painting the wood first before gluing it. There's a lot to be said for pre-painting if either: 1. You're going to use a stain instead of a paint. 2. You're going to use a water-based paint. 3. You're going to do a multi-colored paint job. 1 and 2 above require pre-painting if you're using an acetate cement because stains and water-based paint will not color surfaces already coated with glue. 3 above is useful for obtaining crisp, clean color boundaries. Dick Karnes Change your membership, change your message settings, use our CALENDAR, view shared files or photos, view the list archives, GO TO http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
