Bob, I've found by far the best way to clean brass is with a miniature
grit blaster. It takes a while to do a model, but the paint will really
stick to the slight texture the blaster causes. I think I am using
aluminum oxide right now. Of course a trip to the lacquer bath is
first, then blast it then you should not touch the model with bare
hands as the oil on the hands defeats the purpose of the blasting.
I have been told that the various etching baths could cause the
solder joints to fail as the etching just keeps going if it's gotten
into the joints. Proof of this is a metal garage door that I installed
fifteen years ago. We had a male cat, and although altered, started to
spray 'his territory'. He would sit on the back of my car and spray at
other cats outside the garage. Well that cat has been dead for maybe 8
years but that garage door has continued etching through the metal even
after cleaning with various cleaners.
Bob Werre
rbnicholson2001 wrote:
>I finally re-worked my old Alco Models RS-2 and RS-3's and now they
>need paint. I was going to have them done commercially, but with a
>virtually new at least 25-year old air brush and compressor sitting
>here in my catacombs, I think I should break the ice and try it
>myself with something besides a Testor's DDT can.
>
>What should I use to clean the models for painting. I've heard
>muriatic acid and photo stop bath are good. Comments and suggestions?
>
>Bob Nicholson
>
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