Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2006 06:47:24 -0000
> From: "ralphepowell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Gradual entry into (and out of) a climb
>
> I'm a newbie from about a month ago. Several of you had some excellent
> comments about my plans. Two of you suggest a shelf approach rather
> than a rectangle. So I've sold myself on a U shape shelf around a room
> using L-girder and cookie-cutter. One author on cookie-cutters shows
> roadbeds appearing to be 1/2", maybe, 5/8" thick. Now I think I
> understand entering a turn gradually but how does one enter,
> gradually, from level to a climb? I should think entering gradually
> would require a wee bit, repeat wee bit, of bending of the roadbed--
> with a thick roadbed how does one do it, enter a climb gradually?
> Ralph Powell, San Diego
>
>
Ralph et al --
If you're using the cookie-cutter approach, rely on the natural
stiffness of the plywood to make your vertical curve transitions. Don't
start your grades at the edges of a plywood sheets. Start your grade
(i.e., cut) at least about 18 inches into the plywood. Use wood cleats
at least as thick as your plywood to splice between plywood sheets, and
between cookie-cut pieces of plywood sheets.
When you fasten your roadbed to your plywood it will conform to the
vertical curves in your plywood base, provided that you clamp or screw
it closely enough to maintain complete contact with your plywood. If
you use wood roadbed (does anyone make this anymore?), make sure your
plywood is rigid (sufficiently attached to your benchwork) that the wood
roadbed does not distort the plywood base when screwed/clamped to it.
My preference is Homa-Bed, a 1/4" Homasote product from California
Roadbed Co. (they have a website). Others swear by cork or othe
rmaterials.
One suggestion: Use 3/4" plywood. It is expensive, but it will never
sag between supports. You can also get by with 5/8" if you have to, but
avoid 1/2". It's too flexible -- less than 30 percent of the stiffness
of 3/4" plywood.
Dick Karnes
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