Ekenny8 et al --
I have two "piano key" jigs -- Not my idea; came from an old Model
Railroader magazine. Mine are made of 1x2 lumber glued and nailed to
form an "L" cross-section with a 1-1/2" wide "floor" with a 3/4"
backstop. Then I glued ties ("piano keys") to the floor of the jig,
being careful to keep them at right angles to the backstop. The tie
spacing is the same as the desired spacing -- 19-1/2 scale inches for
mainline, 22 scale inches for secondary trackage. Use a scale rule. If
you have trouble with the small graduations, lay out about ten ties at a
time and space them by eye. Ten ties on 19-1/2" spacing takes up about
three actual inches. Ten ties on 22" spacing takes up 3-7/16 actual
inches. The piano keys (ties) you use to build your jig should be no
wider than 9 scale inches, otherwise you will have trouble removing your
ties from the jig.
Using a straightedge, draw a centerline on the tie tops that's half a
tie's length away from the backstop. I use 3/4" (a scale four feet)
because I use 8-foot ties. Many roads use 8-1/2 foot or 9 foot ties.
To use the jig, place loose ties in the slots in your jig. Tap the jig
so as to make sure all of them contact the backstop. If you want
uniform, parallel ties, also tap the jig so that all the ties rest
exactly against the jig's piano keys. If you prefer random skewing,
don't do the second tap.
Press masking tape down on the ties, aligning one edge of the tape along
the centerline that you drew. All this requires is taping the tape to
one end of the jig, holding it along the centerline, and running your
thumb over the tape from one end of the jig to the other.
I make up rolls of ties by double-stick-taping my jig to the arms of a
rocking chair and stringing ties on masking tape while watching
television. Switch ties require a bit more attention. I use the
19-1/2" jig for this purpose, consulting prototype "timber schedules"
for the appropriate numbers of different tie lengths for particular
turnout numbers.
Dick Karnes
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