This refers back to Dick Karnes comment about available S Scale track
and switches. Without starting a new eGroups thread, I want to add
one comment about the Shinohara switches. Since I'm a big user and
believer of them, don't forger that the guard rails along the frog
have to be moved closer to the running rail to provided the proper
wheel/flange back-t0-back spacing thru the frog area. (I think the
right back-to-back is .875 but I don't have my NASG Spec's here, so
look it up.) It's easy to turn the switch over, cut away one tie
width of the plastic spacer strips, move the guard rail next to the
running rail and solder a small piece of wire or brass strip to both
the running rail and guard rails. Without doing this, some wheels
will want to pick the frog point, but with this correction, the wheels
just glide thru the frog area. I also modify the switches for an
insulated frog and wire the running rails and point rails to the same
electrical polarity. I usually do 5 or 6 switches at a time and it
takes about 30 minutes while watching a baseball game on TV. (Having
a TV by my workbench is just as bad as going on to your computer
everyday to read the posting in the S-Trains list resulting in NOT A
LOT GETTING DONE ON THE RAILROAD!) Anyway, I recommed the Shinohara
switches 100%. I use the #6 even with the slightly wrong frog and
frog-to-point dimensions. If your track and wheels are gauged right,
you will have flawless operation. If you don't find the switches on
eBay your only other choice is S Scenery for about $22 each. One
other obvious item, always check the guage of your wheels. Even SHS
and the newer AM wheelset, on a rare ocassion, have been been found
out of gauge. Tho this is very rare with those quality products, I
ways check my wheel gauge before putting any car or engine on the
layout. That's why I have smooth operation with no derailments....
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