I use foamcore only for mock-ups of buildings to fit my model
railroad. The real trick is to a boxcutter which holds a one sided
razor blade. An Exacto #11, no matter how sharp or new, doesn't work
but rips the foam. The blade is just to wide. On the ends I cut the
ends and then make a second cut, this done by feel and experience, not
as deep to cut the paper backing, to indent one side. Then I, usually
by had, tear the foam from the paper. Using the razor blade will tend
to find the paper and cut it. I have neat mockups on the layout and
as in model railroading, you ususlly have to compress builds to fit a
scene. Foamcore is easy to cut and make the buildiing fite the scene.
That's why I build a mockups. This it a great way to do it. I don's
use the foamcore for the roofs but us regular white board (sratmore)
for that and cut a shallow slit where the joint goes at the top. I
also Xerox S Scale window and door pictures (Grandt Line Catalog and
other places) and glue them to the Foamcore Mockup for looks. My
mockups tend to stay on the layout for a while so they should look
nice. Foamcore is easy to spray paint lite gray and other colors. In
fact, Michaels has them in colors, but usually bright and deep, for
garage sale signs not great for model work.
However, I do use foamcore for my major roads, with SculptureMold for
the embankments and lite gray/concrete or black for the road surface.
But Careful with the razor blade. I still get some nicks in my hands
after a project. Also, I use straigt Elmer's White glue and sometimes
straight pins for attachment. However, the Elmer's drys fast and I
don't bother with the pins, as they show, unless painted.
My favorite building is styrene (and sometimes wood). I wouldn't
bother going through all the work of building a structure with
foamcore and not use styrene or wood.
Again, Foamcore is great for mockups and my mockups tend to stay on
the layout for years before I feel like building the final structure.
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