Kenny: Ed's idea is probably the best solution, especially with something so delicate and vulnerable (to say nothing of expensive) as DCC to minor electrical glitches and other human imperfections.
However, while lying in bed the other night thinking about your problem, I remembered an old trick the AF guys used to use to convert AF steam engines to driver pick-up. Drill a tap hole, 2-56 or whatever, through the wheel tires into the driver centers. Thread it and turn a machine screw into the hole, then cut the head off of the screw and file it flush with the driver tread. Of course, this does not take into account problems caused by a loose mechanism, etc., but both combined should virtually eliminate your problem. Bob Nicholson --- In [email protected], Ed Kozlowsky <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > If you can find a way to do it, the best contact will be from installing wipers on the back of the drive wheels. It eliminates all the resistance from the loose mechanism. > > Ed Koz > > frbpman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hello group, my Son and I are currently working on finishing up a DCC > installation in an original Rex 0-6-0 switcher and are experiencing > major (to us) electrical pick-up problems. Apologies in advance if > this is a long post; however, we are both starting to pull our hair > out over this and to those of you who know me, I don't have much left > to lose. > > The problem area is the "hot side" drivers. It appears that only one > of the drive wheels - the rear in this case - is transferring power to > the chassis. Note the tender pick-ups are fine and the insulated side > of the drive wheels is okay also. > > The engine is fully painted (some minor knicks) and appears to be well > maintained. There is some slight corrosion (rust) on the driver > rims. The drivers are painted. While almost impossible to tell, it > does not appear that someone swapped insulated for non-insulated > drivers. > > Our questions are: > 1. Shouldn't all three drive wheels on the hot side be "live or non- > insulated"? > > 2. Has anyone ever encountered this condition and if so the cause? > There appears to be no continuity on the front driver and perhaps some > continuity in the middle driver. > > Thank you in advance for any guidance in this problem. > Respectfully, > Kenny Palmer > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
