Darrell--That is precisely what I wanted to know--Thank you so much 
for the extensive explanation of how to do it and with what. I am 
printing your answer out and hanging over the layout in a protective 
sleeve. I said "phase" as I am pretty sure that is the reference some 
book or phamphlet used. Once again, thank you for the time and 
effort. Kelly





--- In [email protected], "Darrell Smith" <devansm...@...> 
wrote:
>
> Kelly,
> 
> I'm not sure exactly what you mean by "in phase" but I think I 
might help.
> 
> When wiring multiple tracks as in your situation, you do want to be
> sure they are all wired with the correct "polarity."  A simple way 
to
> check this is to use an automotive tester.  This is a tool that 
looks
> a little like a screwdriver with a wire coming out the handle end. 
> The tip is a point instead of a screwdriver blade, the wire usually
> has an alligator clip on the back end, and there is a bulb in the
> handle.  You want the kind without a battery.  That kind is a
> "continuity tester" and doesn't work for this application.  You can
> find this tool at any automotive parts store, as well as the
> department stores having an automotive section.
> 
> The above tester uses a 12 vold automotive bulb for testing 12v
> automotive circuits.  As long as your power supply delivers less 
than
> 15v it should work fine.  If you are using a DCC system, which is
> usually 18v, you may need to change the bulb to a higher voltage.
> 
> To use the tester, apply power to the track(s) you want to test.  
Clip
> the alligator clip to one rail (for example the turntable lead 
track)
> and use the probe on other rails to test correctness.
> 
> 1. Test the opposite rail of the same track.  The bulb should light
> up.  If it doesn't, either there is no power to the track, or the 
bulb
> is bad.
> 
> 2. Test the SAME rail on the track section you want to check (for
> example on the turntable).  The bulb should NOT light up if the 
track
> is wired correctly.
> 
> 3. Test the opposite rail on that same section of track.  This time
> the bulb should light up.
> 
> 4. If you are testing multiple track sections (for example your
> roundhouse tracks) go through the same test when each section of 
track
> is powered.
> 
> 5. When you have completed the above, attach the alligator clip to 
the
> OPPOSITE rail and repeat the tests.  This will assure that the other
> side of the track is wired correctly.
> 
> NOTE:
> It should not be difficult to obtain correct wiring without 
resorting
> to the above methodology.  Simply make sure all the "North" rails 
are
> wired to the same power feed, and make sure all the "South" rails 
are
> wired to the other power feed.
> 
> By "power feed" I do not mean directly to the throttle.  The power
> feed I am referring to is the power to the tracks after your block
> control switches (if you are not using DCC), or your isolation
> switches (if you ARE using DCC).  This of course assumes that you 
have
> been able to wire up to that point by correctly isolating "North" 
and
> "South" polarities....
> 
> Ask more questions if you don't understand this, or need further
> explanation.
> 
> Darrell Smith
> 
> 
> 
> --- In [email protected], "wb4hay" <nnn0tjf@> wrote:
> >
> > Guys,
> > 
> >     Can someone be real patient and explain in detail the 
procedure for 
> > checking to make sure for instance that two tracks are in phase. 
I have 
> > a turntable and roundhouse to wire in addition to an inner loop, 
so I 
> > sure wanted to get it right.
> > 
> > 'Preciate it,
> > 
> > Kelly
> >
>



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