Excellent suggestion, Dave;

For those interested in the foam/ceiling tile method, look up "Planning and 
Building a Midwestern Prairie Layout by Jim Six in Kalmbach's "Model Railroad 
Planning" issue for 2010. You can probably order a copy from Kalmbach, as I 
don;t think most shops will still have it.

You might also join the Yahoo Proto-Layouts, a number of very good modelers 
post there and several are using this method of construction.

Another source of information I have mentioned before on building with foam is 
Lance Mindheim's site at http://www.lancemindheim.com/index.htm . The model 
photos are simply amazing, and he has interesting methods for building a 
beautiful layout relatively quickly (since he has learned his interest in a 
given subject is only good for 8 years or so....).

Pieter E. Roos


--- On Sat, 8/21/10, ctxmf74 <[email protected]> wrote:

> From: ctxmf74 <[email protected]>
> "Jeff Ngowe" <chocolatte...@...> wrote:
>  I do not have a jigsaw, so unless a handsaw can be used to
> cut MDF, I will be using Pieter's method. I am also
> wondering, do I need plywood (or OSB) underneath the 2"
> foam? Would 1/2" foam be fine?
> 
>    You don't really need a saber saw to
> build one small layout section. Buy a sheet of good plywood
> about 3/4 thick, have the lumber yard rip it to the table
> top width, then have them rip the remainder into 3.5 inch
> wide strips for the framing. Then have the dimensions handy
> so they can cross cut the table top and the framing strips
> to the correct lengths. Ten minutes of cutting and they will
> be done.  All you have to do then is take it home and
> nail it together. Those tracks are too close together to
> need any kind of cookie cutter top, a solid top with 1/2
> inch of ceiling tile glued down would give a scale 32 inches
> to carve out ditches and drainage which is plenty for a yard
> or industrial area. You could add homabed precut roadbed to
> the tile if you want or just glue the ties to the tile and
> leave the tracks lower. Once it's all drawn out you can see
> where you might want to carve out some drainage between the
> rails but there won't be much need in that width. 
>   While working out the table framing consider how to
> add the switching extensions cause it's gonna be a
> frustrating design to switch without them.....dave 



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