Bill:

No, it's nickel silver, it just looks like brass in the photos. I'm trying to 
devise a method whereby a modeler could pre-assemble switch blocks from 
styrene, then mount the Atlas switches on them without a lot of custom fitting 
and cutting.

The best way to do this (that I have found, so far) is to remove the Atlas tie 
strip completely, except in a few strategic places, such as the heel blocks and 
the frog and guardrails, for instance, then use Atlas spike head pieces 
fastened to the styrene to hold the rails in place. The only real "downside" is 
the rail joiners for the lengths of rail I use to lengthen the Atlas switches.

With the Old Pullman switches, I slide Atlas spike head castings from a strip 
of HO flex-trak tie strip onto the rails, then slide them back and forth to fit 
between the styrene ties on the switch block.

Bob Nicholson

--- In [email protected], "Scale S Only" <scaleso...@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Bob --
> 
> I'm impressed with your work, but it seems like one could start from scratch 
> with no more effort or expense, though portability isn't quite as good. 
> Looks like you are still using brass rail, too, but I am sure the same Atlas 
> turnouts can be had in nickle silver rail, as they dropped regular brass 
> many years ago.
> 
> Have fun!
> Bill Winans
> Prescott Valley, AZ
> 
> P.S. the covered hopper is being painted as we email
> 
> 
> I've just uploaded two more photos of my latest Atlas #6 switch conversions. 
> Note that it uses no spikes and is completely portable, just like the HO 
> version.
> 
> I've also begun to re-mount some of my Old Pullman #5 switches on styrene 
> switch blocks in the same spikeless manner, with great results.
> 
> "S"tring Bob
>




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