Use a dull coat urethane finish on both sides of any wood. You will plasticize
the wood to a certain degree. I have been doing this for 50 years.
In building BTS or other laser cut buildings I take large sheets of stiff
smooth sided corrugated box board with long strips of a double sided masking
tape in rows. I take an Xacto knife and cut ONE HALF of the backing strip from
each row of double sided tape..
I then remove all parts from the wood sheets and place each piece along the
tape. Let only a small area be attached on the exposed adhesive. Enough to
thwart movment by the spray pressure.
Use a spray can of DULL urethane finish on the wood parts. wait a couple of
days or more for drying, then remove the parts. do this again on the reverse
side.of the pieces. The edges of the pieces will be sealed as well as the
surface..
This wood will NEVER warp. You get a perfect surface for any paint.
You can plasticize balsa wood the same way. soak it. It's a great material.
With over 150 architectural models out "there" I have had fun experimenting.
The above method will end any warping.
John Armstrong
----- Original Message -----
From: David Engle
To: S-Scale Group
Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2010 12:12 PM
Subject: {S-Scale List} NorthEastern Wood Streamline Roofs
This should have been asked 40 years ago. Is it possible to hollow out the
underside of these roof pieces without cracking the remaining wood at some
point. How thin could a resulting cross-section reasonably be without
splitting. Could an epoxy glue or something else be used to help minimize
damage. DJE
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