All,

 

While it took a bit longer to complete than I estimated (as usual) an RSD5 I
have had for about 15 years and never run just took some laps. I just lumped
it into the bad RS drive syndrome and never really gave it much thought. I
bought some Overland E unit trucks with the thought of reworking a new
drive. Just for a goof the other day I poked around to find the trucks were
rather free. What a happy surprise. So I figured since it has a good enough
for now paint job I would get some running time on it with "minimal effort".

 

I easily popped out the original cast fan grill with my thumbs. The Des
Plaines etched fan grill fits in there very well with only some very minor
filing of the shell. No paint was even harmed in the process. A true 5
minute job! Instant speaker grill!

 

1 of the more time consuming things was making new pickup wipers. My latest
modus operendi is to cut grooves in the back of the wheels and run the
wipers in there. No can do here. The wheel ride rather close to the cast
"block" gearbox. I had to sit and ponder more than a while. This is what I
came up with. http://www.lanestrains.com/RSD_Truck.jpg That is a 0-80 nylon
screw in a small bracket I soldered to the top of the sideframe. Luckily
they were brass!

 

Someone else put a nice Sagami motor in it. I knew I should have changed the
"Hobbytown" driveshafts & U joints Even after a thorough lube job of the
towers and U joints they are stiff, a little noisy and making it run not as
well as I think it could. The zero to first move is rather abrupt.

 

The Alco Models PRR RSD5 had antennas, but no PRR RSD5 had antennas. This
shell will get swapped onto a RS3 drive at some point. I have 4 brass shells
to heavily rework for the modern PRR RS3 units and the RSD5.

 

Finally, I installed a Tsunami in the RSD5. I have really only done the
basic programming up to this point. I always use the sound cam in Steam so I
have not even tried to "fake" the chuff rate. 

 

Perhaps it is because of the motor or it is stiff but the top speed is
pretty slow. However the Tsunami only comes up off the idle to perhaps the
first or send step of RPM and stays there regardless of the engine speed.
What CVs should I look at and how should I set them to make it more
sensitive to the engine speed? I am not one for much momentum. I like it to
stop when I want it to stop! I know that momentum or something like it has
an effect of the ramping up and down of the RPM.

 

Give the history of this loco in S I am happy it is still a viable model to
run.

 

Thank You,
Bill Lane

Modeling the Mighty Pennsy & PRSL in 1957 in S Scale since 1988

See my finished models at:
 <http://www.lanestrains.com/> http://www.lanestrains.com
Look at what has been made in PRR in S Scale!

Custom Train Parts Design
 <http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm>
http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm

PRR Builders Photos Bought, Sold & Traded
(Trading is MUCH preferred)
 <http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls>
http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls 

***Join the PRR T&HS***
The other members are not ALL like me!
 <http://www.prrths.com/> http://www.prrths.com
 <http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf>
http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf

Join the Pennsylvania Reading Seashore Lines Historical Society
It's FREE to join!  <http://www.prslhs.com/> http://www.prslhs.com 
Preserving The Memory Of The PRSL

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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