Ed,  I actually prefer bacon, but sausage will do!  Keep the baloney.

Who ever wrote the information was a bit confusing as I indicated in my 
prior note.  When I originally wired my layout for DC, I established 
20+blocks that were powered by several power packs.  In this way one 
pack could control the entire layout for single operator status.  With 
other operators being added additional packs running distinct yards were 
used.  It worked fairly well. One rail was common to the entire layout 
while the other was broken by the rotaries as needed.  Jack Troxell used 
double layered rotaries whereby both wires were broken as needed.  I 
didn't make much difference and this is what they call "uncommon" wiring 
I guess.  However since Jack still runs straight DC the writer seems to 
fail to recognize this.
   When I changed to DCC I (like Ed) also changed nothing until I added 
an additional power district.  This required cutting two gaps and 
running wires from the new booster to all the blocks, which are 
controlled by six position rotaries. It took about any hour's time. I 
have no trouble with any engines stalling on gaps including my little 
dockside.

Our club modules are really quite similar as we have two mains, each 
it's own power district with crossovers that are double gaped--just like 
with conventional DC.  Each main is basically a single block.  I've 
modified our club's wiring to utilize DCC advantages but essentially 
it's just double common wiring.

Bob Werre
BobWphoto.com
>
> > here is an in depth overview of
> > the cons of common rail wiring in
> > DCC from the DCC Wiki.
> >
> > http://www.dccwiki.com/No_common_rail_wiring
>
> Gentlemen....As one who has operated common rail layouts with DCC, I 
> am happy to report the referenced material is pure BS. If you do it 
> properly, it can be done. If you do it mproperly, there is a chance a 
> brass imported steam engine will stall at the dividing point between 
> power districts. Annoying to be sure, but hardly a catastrophe. If a 
> common rail layout works with DC, it can be made to work with DCC. 
> Take the article with a big grain of salt. Call up your favorite DCC 
> company and ask them how to do it. Have fun....Ed L.
>
>



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