Wow! Thanks, Charlie. This really helps! (I haven't built a Kinsman kit since about 1974 -- the other was the Heinze 57 reefer.) And the comment on the center sill also greatly helps. I have other cars I can measure to get the size of a straight center sill.
Those PRS boxcars I just dug out (Susquahana Northern and Crooked Mountain Lines) might be back on their way to the basement. (I'm in a 'wood' mood, not a 'plastic' or 'metal' mood.) Thorin ________________________________ From: Charlie Bergeron <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Sent: Mon, March 14, 2011 5:22:30 PM Subject: Instructions for Kinsman 40 Foot Instructions for Kinsman 40 Foot – 40 Ton Refrigerator Cars Instructions for Kinsman 40 Foot – 40 Ton Refrigerator Cars The Kinsman 40 ft Reefer is a composite design, based on several prototypes. As such, the builder can change details within limits to obtain several different cars. For example: some reefers used roof ribs and others had plain roofs. Ice hatches could be mounted on rectangular platforms, or set directly on the roof. Center sills (stringers) could be fish-belly as per template or a straight box girder style. Some cars used corner ladders, whereas grab-irons might be substituted on others, etc. If you are building several of these kits, try varying the details as well as the painted sides to obtain a more interesting group of cars. Study drawings and instructions to become familiar with construction methods. Try each piece in its intended location before cementing permanently, to be sure of proper fit. Wipe off any excess cement squeezed out of joints in order to maintain neatness. Pre drill wood parts to accommodate wire “piping”, truck screws, mounting nails, etc, to avoid splitting wood. Begin construction by cementing cantilevered end eaves, from 1/16” x 1/8” strip balsa flush to roof surface, both ends. Catwalk supports, from 1/16” x 1/16” strip balsa, carve tapered pitch to match roof pitch and cut each to a length of 5/16”, cement to roof, spaced at 1/2” from C/L of support to C/L of support, starting with a first support at the center of roof. Abut and cement roof ribs 1/32” x 1/16” balsa strips to catwalk support ends, cement catwalk to supports to finish roof assembly. Should you desire ice hatches mounted on rectangular platforms, utilize left over 1/32” thick material for the platforms, cement in place before securing ice hatches, you can do this later as scrap material comes available. Under-frame structure attaches to the underside of the base floor (the grooved end surface is the underside). Assembly requires 2 main center sill stringers to be created utilizing 1/32” x 3/8” strip balsa, see “center sill” template, drill and slot. Cut at the same length 4 1/16” x 1/16” sq. strip balsa base stringers, Create 4 drilled cross bearers from 1/16” x 1/4" strip balsa, see template. Create 2, 1/16” x 1/8” strip balsa perimeter side sills at full base length plus 1/16”. Before cementing the main center sill stringers, they are to be spaced apart 3/16” from each other, base stringers are to be spaced 3/16” to the outside of the main center sill stringers. Form and feed the .030 diameter brake pipe through the drilled and slotted main center sill stringers, cross bearers and pre-cut drilled body bolsters (7). Cementing the assembly procedure! First, abut main center sill stringers and base stringers, which are the same length, to the pre-cut body bolsters and cement this portion of the assembly together and to the base, (note: body bolsters need to be centered on the base, once cement has dried, trim bolster tips to 1/16” short of the edge of the base), afterwards, abut cross bearers to the main central stringers with pipe in position. Cement cross bearers while being positioned vertically upon the base stringers and simultaneously abutted to the main central stringers. Once cement has dried, trim cross bearers to 1/16” short of the edge of the base and cement perimeter side sills (center the side sills as they require a 1/32” overhang at both ends of the base) to cross bearers, body bolsters and base, once cement has dried, trim ends to full length of base. Remove any flashing from cast end sills (9), fasten to bottom of base before cementing the 1/16” x 3/32” strip balsa diagonals and the channeled central stringer end piece extensions (8). Fit and cement the following in this order: flanges covering the bolsters, 1/32” x 3/8” strip balsa, center and taper to suit as per drawing. Flanges covering the main center sill stringers 1/32” x 3/32” strip balsa, install flush with inside edge of each stringer. Flanges over cross bearers are 1/32” x 1/8” strip balsa, install centered over cross bearers. The brake cylinder support pad strip balsa is 1/8” x 3/16” x 5/8”, center between cross bearers while sandwiched between main center sill stringer and base sill. Parallel spreaders are to be located between the cross bearers and body bolsters, cut 1/16” sq. strip balsa, cement to finish under-frame structure. Roof and floor assemblies, end blocks, and painted side panels can now be assembled to form the car body. It is best when working with the printed side panels to lay them face down on a sheet of wax paper and cement the panels to each other, then add the side as a unit to the car body. This will insure the face of the side being smooth and flush at the joints. Use only enough cement to hold the panels together, as any access will squeeze through to the face of the sides. The panel with the car initials and numbers goes to the left of the door. After cementing the sides in place, trim the ends flush with the end blocks, then attach the scribed ends. Note that the scribed ends are full body width, and cover the ends of the sides. Trim the edges of the ends flush with the face of the sides. Pre-paint and cement end and side fascias 1/32” x 3/32” strip balsa below eves with side fascias overlapping end fascias. All remaining brake parts and hardware can now be added. Pre-painting of the drip strips and door hardware before mounting is advised. Corner ladders may be cemented to the sides, but a neater and more realistic method is to cement or solder the ladders to four pins driven into the car sides at the ladder corners. Ladders should stand out from the car sides about 1/32” or less. When the completed car is mounted on trucks, the centerline of the couplers should be exactly 17/32” above the tops of the rails. If it is too low, add washers between truck and body bolsters, if too high, the body bolsters may have to be shaved to suit. Most reefers had boxcar red roofs and ends. Under frames were boxcar red or black. The portion of the car side below the door as well as the exposed face of the side sills where they project below the painted sides should be black. Hardware was usually black on new cars, but was often repainted the background color when cars were shipped. The edges of the scribed ends should be touched up to match the printed sides, of course. One exception to the above is the Swift reefer. On this car the sides, ends, and all fittings pertaining to them are bright red. Under body and steps are black, roof is boxcar red, and side and end fascias are white. No roof ribs or hatch platforms are used on this car. These kits may be used with any of the printed cardboard sides formerly offered by Cleveland or Mid-Gauge Models, or the present “Old Shanty” line. Use plain 1/16” sheet wood side panels in place of the printed wood sides supplied with the kit, and then mount the cardboard sides over these. 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