Promoting S Scale Model TrainsThanks to all who responded to my call for
advice. I was hoping to be able to purchase an off-the-shelf device for a few $
to substitute for the "winker" plugs. Maybe I'll just leave it "as is". The
whole thing is more representative of a real signal than a direct copy, anyway.
I kind of like it that way!
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2011 5:12 AM
Subject: {S-Scale List} Digest Number 5559
Promoting S Scale Model Trains
Messages In This Digest (11 Messages)
1a. Re: Signal flasher From: [email protected]
2a. Re: sealing Homasote From: [email protected]
2b. Re: sealing Homasote From: Bill & Diane, B.T.S.
3. S scale For sale From: bertcutler92
4a. 'bashing' question From: ken garber
4b. Re: 'bashing' question From: Bert Cutler
4c. Re: 'bashing' question From: scale S only
4d. Re: 'bashing' question From: ctxmf74
4e. Re: 'bashing' question From: Rusty
5. Gluing Couplers From: Andrew_Malette
6a. Re: Southern Pacific GS-4 rebuilt version (1946+) From: Bill Rigsby
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1a. Re: Signal flasher
Posted by: "[email protected]" [email protected] hudsoncentralrr
Wed Mar 23, 2011 6:04 am (PDT)
>The closest I've come is an $ 18.00 item at a hobby
shop that works on 12-18 volts and I need 110.
You could use the
low voltage unit to actuate a relay.
Stan Stokrocki
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Messages in this topic (3)
2a. Re: sealing Homasote
Posted by: "[email protected]" [email protected] hudsoncentralrr
Wed Mar 23, 2011 6:16 am (PDT)
> I had thoughts about getting a flat or semi gloss latex
based clear
>
In my experience, it's a big plus to get rid
of the bare plywood or Homasote look ASAP. Painting the layout an earth,
green, or even gray color makes a huge difference prior to scenery
installation. In highly visible areas, sprinkling a little ground cover
onto the wet paint is even better.
Stan Stokrocki
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Messages in this topic (7)
2b. Re: sealing Homasote
Posted by: "Bill & Diane, B.T.S." [email protected] wadepub13
Wed Mar 23, 2011 6:25 am (PDT)
[email protected] wrote:
>
>
>
>
>>I had thoughts about getting a flat or semi gloss latex
>>
>>
>based clear
>
>
>In my experience, it's a big plus to get rid
>of the bare plywood or Homasote look ASAP. Painting the layout an earth,
>green,
>
(snip)
Yep, good plan. But go with a dirt color. Get a gallon of flat latex
that is a light earth color - I took a sample of Floquil Earth to use as
a match - and, like Stan suggests, a couple of large containers of
Woodland Scenics ground foam to sprinke into the wet paint. WS offers
a 54 cu in container of Blended Turf in Earth and Green colors that will
work well for the basic ground cover.
Take care
Bill
--
== Scale Model Railroad Products ==
== Manufacturer - Retailer - Importer ==
Bill & Diane Wade
B.T.S.
RR 1 Box 141A
Belington, WV 26250
Phone: 304-823-3729
FAX: 304-823-2901
http://www.btsrr.com
We wish you Fair Winds and Following Seas.
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Messages in this topic (7)
3. S scale For sale
Posted by: "bertcutler92" [email protected] bertcutler92
Wed Mar 23, 2011 10:55 am (PDT)
Gentleman, I have the following for sale,. River Raisen C&O Allegheny 2 6 6
6 painted # 1600 painted slight use $2500 1 C&O 2 10 4 Texas #3004 painted
$1800 Slight use,,. 1 River Raisen PM 2 8 4 painted C&O # 2690 weathered with
Lenz decoder $1800 ,,.. 1 River Raisen PM 2 8 4 unpainted mint $1600,,.. River
Raisen C&O H 4 2 6 6 2 Unpainted $2200,,.. 1 River Raisen H 6 2 6 6 2 unpainted
$2200,,.. 1 Overland USRA 2 8 2 with NYC H 10 a tender modified to PM $1200,,..
1 Overland USRA 0 8 0 mint unpainted $900 ,,.. 5 Overland C&O Cabooses Painted
in red and black scheme $225 Ea,,.. 5 Southwlnd C&O wood Cabs painted properly
$180 ea.,,.. 1 River Raisen Deepwell flat painted black ,white lettering
$250,,.. I have over 250 freight cars including PRS, SHS, DPH, and a few AM
cars that have been modified...,, 50 Pcs, Tomalco code 83 flex at $6.50 ea,,..
I have RR BTS and a lot of others parts.. If interested email
[email protected] or call 513 884 8523 Thanks Bert cutler
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Messages in this topic (1)
4a. 'bashing' question
Posted by: "ken garber" [email protected] va3etr
Wed Mar 23, 2011 12:27 pm (PDT)
Some of my upcoming projects are major carbody modifications - the fool
that I am.
I did it from time to time when I was in HO - some better results than
others, but with the large body size of S rolling stock, I'm wondering if
anyone had any 'sure-fire' method to splice two carbodies together. I have
an idea or two but would like to hear from the maSSeS.
Thanks for the comments.
ken
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Messages in this topic (5)
4b. Re: 'bashing' question
Posted by: "Bert Cutler" [email protected] bertcutler
Wed Mar 23, 2011 3:34 pm (PDT)
Ken, AM cars are really great to make something right ,like splicing
hoppers and gons,. You just have to make up your mind to do it., Thanks Bert
To: [email protected]
From: [email protected]
Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2011 15:27:35 -0400
Subject: {S-Scale List} 'bashing' question
Some of my upcoming projects are major carbody modifications - the fool
that I am.
I did it from time to time when I was in HO - some better results than
others, but with the large body size of S rolling stock, I'm wondering if
anyone had any 'sure-fire' method to splice two carbodies together. I have
an idea or two but would like to hear from the maSSeS.
Thanks for the comments.
ken
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Messages in this topic (5)
4c. Re: 'bashing' question
Posted by: "scale S only" [email protected] scalesonly
Wed Mar 23, 2011 4:33 pm (PDT)
Hi Ken --
Since you have already done this in HO, you probably also have the
techniques to do it in S.
Good tools are the heart of making good splices. Good razor saw or Dremel
saw, large, flat, fine toothed file and / or square sanding tool, and a flat
surface (glass or similar) to check for alignment after initial fitting. Then
patient sanding to a final fit that lies flat on the glass.
Good places to splice are along car seams or structural members where the
contour of the surface helps to hide the joint.
Pitfalls are easily encountered, primarily in that many plastic injection
molds are NOT necessarily the same left to right or end to end. In making a
streamlined full baggage car from two AM baggage â?" crew cars, the difference
was about 1/32â?, which is doubled when one end is rotated to meet the other.
Obviously, the joint then has to be thoroughly reinforced because the internal
stresses will be quite high when forcing the side joint into alignment. In that
case, I started by joining the roof (most rigid part) and flexing the sides
into place once the roof was cured and HARD.
Good luck!
Bill Winans
Prescott Valley, AZ
I did it from time to time when I was in HO - some better results than
others, but with the large body size of S rolling stock, I'm wondering if
anyone had any 'sure-fire' method to splice two carbodies together.
ken
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Messages in this topic (5)
4d. Re: 'bashing' question
Posted by: "ctxmf74" [email protected] ctxmf74
Wed Mar 23, 2011 7:36 pm (PDT)
--- In [email protected], ken garber <garber.ken@...> wrote:
> I'm wondering if
> anyone had any 'sure-fire' method to splice two carbodies together. I have
> an idea or two but would like to hear from the maSSeS.
>
I use the common methods but also found that a sharp low angle block plane
works great on plastic for smoothing splice joints.
I like to cut the joints a bit fat with a zona saw then plane to the line
with plenty of testing as it nears the finish....dave
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Messages in this topic (5)
4e. Re: 'bashing' question
Posted by: "Rusty" [email protected] thebrassbasher
Wed Mar 23, 2011 10:50 pm (PDT)
I've tried splicing some AM cars but mine turned into dismal failures. I
have taken PRS box cars; I cut the 6 panel sides off a 50 ft and then added
them to a 40 foot that i cut the 10 panel sides off of. I then added height and
ribs to the ends to make the D&RGW 40 ft 12 panel side boxcar. A lot of work
but it turned out just fine, and is unique in S scale as far as I know. The PRS
cars are styrene and not an ABS plastic so MEK works wonders for plastic
welding the parts on.
I've also worked with the older American Flyer plastic cars. I discovered
there is a lot of inconstancy with their plastics. The black plastic seems to
be very oily, some of the gray plastics are very hard. I don't have much
experience with the red or yellow plastic cars that AF had. I did scale out one
of their 40 ft gondolas. It was green plastic and worked fine but I had to use
super glue to assemble the parts.
If you plan on splicing up some of the AM passenger cars I know a;" List
Lurker", that will be very interested in the results you have.
J. Rustermier
--- In [email protected], ken garber <garber.ken@...> wrote:
>
> Some of my upcoming projects are major carbody modifications - the fool
> that I am.
>
> I did it from time to time when I was in HO - some better results than
> others, but with the large body size of S rolling stock, I'm wondering if
> anyone had any 'sure-fire' method to splice two carbodies together. I have
> an idea or two but would like to hear from the maSSeS.
>
> Thanks for the comments.
>
>
> ken
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
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Messages in this topic (5)
5. Gluing Couplers
Posted by: "Andrew_Malette" [email protected] cnr3304
Wed Mar 23, 2011 3:11 pm (PDT)
If you use water based contact cement, they will stick well but still will
come off rather easily using an Xacto chisel.
cheers,
Andy Malette
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Messages in this topic (1)
6a. Re: Southern Pacific GS-4 rebuilt version (1946+)
Posted by: "Bill Rigsby" [email protected] silvergost1
Thu Mar 24, 2011 12:04 am (PDT)
Rusty,
Am interested in the parts for my GS-4. Please let me know what you have.
Did you post this on the BASS yahoo groups site?
Are you still repairing the Cabforwards? Have one that does not run, and
want to have it fixed, plus sound, and DCC added.
Bill Rigsby
--- On Sun, 3/20/11, Rusty <[email protected]> wrote:
From: Rusty <[email protected]>
Subject: {S-Scale List} Southern Pacific GS-4 rebuilt version (1946+)
To: [email protected]
Date: Sunday, March 20, 2011, 4:18 PM
I've been reworking a couple of the Overland Models GS-4's into the post
1945 rebuilt version and have several detail parts that one might need to
convert theirs also. I have grabs for the sander covers, ball ends for the
handrail posts, hollow front end markers, and drop handrail posts for the
boiler handrails, I also have some of those extremely small electrical conduit
boxes used on the handrails. Contact me off list for the details if you have an
interest in these. These are my castings from my masters. River Raisin now has
the number boards and the correct blow down mufflers in stock also for those
who wish to do the after 1945 model.
J Rustermier
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a.. 3 New Members
b.. 56 New Photos
c.. 5 New Files
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