Thanks Mike!  I hadn't thought about the Central Valley bridge kit. It's sure 
to be better detailed since the Plastruct kit has no rivit detail and is just 
straight smooth plastic extrusions.  

I don't mind modifying and I know "S" requires a little exact work in many 
cases, but it's still a great gauge to model in and has a lot going for it.


Butch


--- In [email protected], Michael Byers <byemic01@...> wrote:
>
> 
> Hey Butch; I've purchased a couple of the Central Valley kits in the past ( 
> HO ) for the same type of 'conversion'. And although I hadn't proceeded very 
> far before having to put everything in storage for awhile, it looked as 
> though the approach I had decided upon was going to work quite well. After 
> some research and with the calipers, I'd determined that the size factor for 
> the structural members scale out close enough to S, but of course the biggest 
> problem is extending the width and height for more appropriate clearances. 
> The O scale version IS too 'heavy' looking for sure. I thought of splitting 
> length-wise the cross members at the centerline; top & bottom, and re-placing 
> an 'oversized' re-enforcement square or rectangular connecting brace at that 
> point to help 'widen' the bridge (at those intersecting points). It may take 
> away from the prototypical appearance aspect alittle bit, but if you could 
> live with that rectangular 'patch' to extend the width a bit more, why not?  
> Some concessions are a small price to pay to convert a nice, affordable HO 
> product into a usable, pretty convincing S scale piece. And possibly look at 
> adding spacers to either side of the horizontal cross-members and components 
> where they contact the vertical truss sections on the sides, at the top and 
> bottom (and near the decking) would help. The consistent thickness of 
> material used is up to you of course, to reach your desired bridge width. 
> Always try things out before cementing into place. And take time to reason 
> problems. That's the fun aspect of S scale: working out problems to ultilize 
> what resources we have at our disposal! Whatever thickness in materials you 
> use for the top portion of the bridge (used to widen it) needs to be 
> consistant with the thickness of material added to the bottom of the bridge 
> of course. For extending the height clearance I would suggest looking at 
> lowering the center decking components as much as possible while still 
> maintaining a reasonable appearance. You could also gain some clearance 
> (height)  space by altering or removing the cross bracing at the top of the 
> entrance/exit bridge end openings.In my opinion, those approaches to 
> 'adapting' this or the Central Valley HO offerings, are the least amount of 
> work to make it work for S. It's either that or go insane trying to extend 
> all of those braces at the ends where they would connect or be riveted to 
> their main structural members; And life's too short for that! I'd 
> scratchbuild a bridge before going to that extreme. Anyway, I hope this 
> helps. Remember, if everything was readly available to us, (as it is in HO 
> scale) it wouldn't be as much fun, or much of a challenge. Most of us like to 
> have some bits of 'challenge' to be at least a little different and add some 
> degree of uniqueness to our models. Mike B.
>  To: [email protected]
> From: up148@...
> Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2011 16:22:14 +0000
> Subject: {S-Scale List} Plastruct Pratt Truss Bridge Kit
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>       Just curious.  Plastruct offers a Pratt Truss Bidge kit in O, HO an N.  
> Has anyone on the forum ever built one of these kits to use in S scale. I was 
> wondering which kit (O or HO) would be closer to the mark for S scale. 
> 
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> One would expect the O kit to be heavy on the beams/girders and the HO kit to 
> be a little light, BUT, maybe one of these kits is out of scale for for the 
> intended gauge and will work best for S.  
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> I would appreciate hearing any comments or suggestions.
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> Thanks,
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> Butch
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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