The Ace Boxcar conversion floors came with 1/4" #1 flat head screws. I use 
3/16" FH #1's to keep from cracking the mounting holes in the car bodies. I 
also ream them out with a #1 tap drill.

I'm rushed right now, but I'll try to put up a link to where I get screws and 
fasteners when I get back from Iowa City today.

Bob Nicholson  _____________________________________


--- In [email protected], JGG KahnSr <jacekahn@...> wrote:
>
> 
> I generally use the 0-80 coarse thread screws that come with Kadee #802's 
> (the longer ones) to mountthe housecar floors; the holes in the corners need 
> to be drilled a bit deeper.  Although I rarely believein "self-tapping" 
> screws (if God had not intended us to be more precise, he would not have 
> given ustaps), I do let the coarser threads do their work in the plastic.  On 
> the truck kingpin and coupler holesin the floor, however, I tap 2-56.
> I just discovered something interesting just the other day: I finally looked 
> closely at a Rex flatcar I boughtat S Fest from the Chuck Porter collection 
> being sold by Jeff Madden.  Although it is in a gondola box, Ihad figured out 
> it was a flat (and a nice 42' one, too).  What I hadn't caught, however, was 
> that it wasa tinplate/AF version where Chuck or someone had gooed Ace 
> bolsters and coupler pads.  I suspect thatwill put it a bit high-riding, but 
> we shall see.
> A year or so ago I was able to buy a couple conversion floors and both a 
> scale gondola (long since finishedand lettered with a spare set of Jim King's 
> SRR decals) and the tinplate version, so I was aware what eachlooked like.  
> Somehow I just hadn't noticed what was going on with the flatcar...
> 
> Jace Kahn
> 
> General Manager 
> Ceres & Canisteo RR Co./Champlain County Traction Co.
> 
> 
> 
>                                         
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




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