I've had a couple of requests for some documentary photos of the PA
conversion that I made many years ago. If you have ever seen the video
put out by Paul Riley, it contains some footage of it in action on the
Houston S Gaugers modules.
Anyway all I can do is describe what I did from memory. I suppose I
should have written an article back when the AF shell was often carved
up for a better outcome. The photos are in the photo section under my
PhotoTraxx folder
The view of the nose will show a brass horn, real glass windows (one
open), cut levers carved in lower nose, grabs installed in later years,
a solid Plexiglas nose filler and coupler mount, and large EMD type
number boards, made again from solid Plex, that the UP also installed
during their life. The original shell had the abbreviated plastic steps
under the door, so I modified a mess of SSL&S ladders designed the back
of steam engine tenders. The number boards were made on Jack Troxell's
milling machine, so we made up a bunch for all those who thought they'd
ever need some. I also spent some time with miniature files cleaning
out the Pa's truck castings that were filled in and shouldn't have been.
The other two view are the chassis next to the shell. This shows the
large can motor that is usually reserved for 0 models--it is a snug
fit. We used Hobbytown universals. I used Plex rod to extend the
original mounts for the chassis. The chassis itself is a solid sheet of
brass shaped to fit the shell. We also cut some slots on that floor,
sort of making bomber doors that allows the motor to set nearly level
with the drive line. Each truck is mounted on 'n' shaped brackets
soldered to the chassis--I don't recall how we bent them that
accurately, but I'm sure that was Jack's deal. What is hidden is the
way we transferred power down to the wheels. First we re-bushed the
original wheels with brass bearing as the original graphite ones were
very wallowed out to the point where the worms and worm gears were also
too worn to use. We used new drill rod to make up replacements and
soldered on two new worms plus a plastic chain drive sprocket. Of
course two of these had to be made up. At this point I had to carve away
much of the original truck chassis to make room for the sprocket that
occupied the area formally used by the AF motor I was able to find some
of those AF conversion wheels once offered by the Hobby Shop. Next we
used the drill rod again and put another sprocket on those two shafts.
These shafts were positioned directly above the other sprocket and run
through solid chunks of brass blocks that hold the shafts. I don't have
any idea of the sprocket ratio.
The last thing I could mention was that I enclosed the lighting system
to prevent stray light from entering the cab. Marker lights work via
fiber optics, while the two headlites and numberboards use standard 1.5
volt bulbs, I think. You will also notice two large chunks of printer's
lead used to keep it from flying off the layout at speed! It does pull
very well. I also have a B unit that except for couplers, diaphragms,
grabs, paint and decals was pretty much unaltered and unpowered. I used
a very vintage set of Enhorning decals plus some Microscale red stripes
where needed.
I am still generally pleased with the results although some things could
certainly have been done easier...but it was my first engine to work on.
Bob Werre
PhotoTraxx
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