Well it seems that I started some good quality discussions. Super!
My problem with most other paints I have used including Floquil many years ago is that they dried too fast. This also includes Tru-Color which I just tried for the first time. I will soon be trying Star all not at my own doing. I do not mix brands and thinners but had to with the Tru-Color. Once I cut Tru-Color I got a little better results. Why should I have to add glosses or retarders to get what I want the paint to do? To flat or dry too fast? NO! Scalecoat walks the walk right out of the bottle. A friend actually counts drops of thinner added when mixing a new batch. I am not that worried about it all. It is an eyeball thing. If you have painted as much as I have you can HEAR what the airbrush is doing and read the paint. I have long used Badger 200 airbrushes. You want to hang a wet coat on and slam it right into the awaiting oven. You are about 1/2 drop away from a paint avalanche so it is not for the faint at heart. But you will be poppin fresh seeing yourself in the paint in about ½ hour! Warning - not recommended for plastic models .. I have had some discussions recently with and about some modelers I know and respect that use rattle cans at times to paint brass. Further at least 1 does not have an aversion to the air brush he just likes the paint that is not available except in rattle cans. I am talking hardware store products Krylon etc. Straight up I dont see how it is possible to control the paint volume especially in very tight areas. There are a few of them that are common to each type of car. It was explained to me as shielding with plastic sheets and various size holes to reduce flow. It sounded way too much like work to me. Get an airbrush! I have also stripped high end O Scale brass ribbed side hoppers that absolutely were painted with a rattle can. By far the worst paint job I have ever seen simply atrocious! The car was not sold by the original owner it ran away! You could barely see the ribs. The rivets did not appear until after a double dip through the dunk tank and eventual blast booth. Thank You, Bill Lane Modeling the Mighty Pennsy & PRSL in 1957 in S Scale since 1988 See my finished models at: <http://www.lanestrains.com/> http://www.lanestrains.com Look at what has been made in PRR in S Scale! Custom Train Parts Design <http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm> http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm PRR Builders Photos Bought, Sold & Traded (Trading is MUCH preferred) <http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls> http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls ***Join the PRR T&HS*** The other members are not ALL like me! <http://www.prrths.com/> http://www.prrths.com <http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf> http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf Join the Pennsylvania Reading Seashore Lines Historical Society It's FREE to join! <http://www.prslhs.com/> http://www.prslhs.com Preserving The Memory Of The PRSL
