Sorry group, I miss sent an email. This is one method in how the Koreans letter their product. As far as I know there is no supplier in the US.
Rusty --- In [email protected], Edward Sauers <ehsauers1@...> wrote: > > Rusty, > Â > I have heard of this process before but have been unable to find any information on these decals. Can you provide info and who produces such decals? I am about to produce more S-Scale decals and I am really interested in this process.. > Â > Any info at all would be appreciated. > Â > Thanks > Â > Ed Sauers > > > ________________________________ > From: j.rustermier j.rustermier@... > To: [email protected] > Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2012 8:44 PM > Subject: {S-Scale List} Using the newer flip flop or upside down decals? > > > > Â > > Paint your model first! Before too much time has elapsed, don't wait months to letter, fresher paint is better than older paint. > Cut very wide margins around the lettering, very wide. These are not the normal waterside decals at all. Drop in luke warm water (like that term) 68 degree or do the math and remember the 9/5 or 5/9 and the + or - 32 rule to get your C. ha! > Once wet they show up nicely but you never need to cut close like you would with the normal decals, think dry transfer here. The lettering is printed on a paper with a light glue and the thin paper over that printing also has a light glue. The whole object is to get the, "decal" to come of the bottom paper and adhere to the top thin paper. There is no actual decal, there is only the lettering sticking to the underside of the top film. letter by letter or logo part by logo part. > Lay this down over the model where you want it and gently burnish it down. Use some kind of small tool and go lightly. The idea is to get the water out from underneath each component of the lettering. This should make it stick to the model. When you think you are there, fire up the hair dryer, pass it back and forth and it will begin to look like it is snuggling down just like using decal solvent setting solution. Important point here is 3 day old paint works better than three month old paint. > > Okay, You stop, go get a beer, come back, and all is now cool, but there is a sheen to what you just did. Use a very sharp point. I say a very sharp point , and pick at the edge of the sheen. It should begin to lift the film off and then you can use good tweezers. (Don Thompson can tell you what good tweezers really are!) to pull the film off. If it is all dry, it had better be, The film comes off looking wrinkly. There is probably still a strange looking spotty sheen here and there. A moist, not dripping wet, brush will then remove any shiny (think glue here) residue. > Clear coat, satin coat, Dullcoat, what ever turns you on but do something. >
