David,
The NMRA has a published set of specs for the recommended weights of
various length cars. It seems to me I used to add a couple ounces of
weight to the original wooden car kit. I don't recall if one includes
the truck's weight into that figure.
I've had pretty good luck with gluing resins to either wood, plastic or
metal. There are a couple of brands that claim they are better with
urethanes and Delrin type materials. Make sure the resins are clean and
it doesn't hurt to use some sandpaper to rough up the surface a bit.
You might want to consider using a floor and roof put out by Keith
Wiseman. It's a close model of the USRA design that fits the time
period of the wooden reefers better than the Ace floor. Some of the
latter S Scenery kits used this floor/roof as part of the kit. I built
a few cars this way and really liked the results. Keith normally runs a
mess if items on E-bay, mostly for the Sn3 folks so you can locate him
through his listings.
Hope that helps.
Bob Werre
PhotoTraxx
Hello:
I have a number of wood side Refer Car Kits (45 kits) that I am gluing
together. I thought it would be fun to go "retro" and make up the
woodside kits. I have some old ACE metal floors, ACE resin floors and
plain wood floors.
Q1: How much weight should I add to the inside of the refer/box car to
ensure that the cars will track correctily?
Q2: what would the wieght amount be for each of the floor material
types: metal, resin & wood?
Q3: I have had success using Mike's Glue and Lighting Glue to glue the
wood to the metal floor. I have not had success doing the same with
the wood to the resin floor material. Does anyone have a suggestion
that has work?
No question that by the time that I added up all the components for
each kit, it would be less money to have bought RTR stock.
But then again, where would all the fun be in that.
Thank you in advance for all your thoughts,
David Avedesian
Member
Baltimore American Flyer Club
Silver Spring, MD
