A few years back, PBL came out with a few urethane structures, mostly of
small stations that were very nice. Instructions indicated something
about using CA type glue for initial assembly then striking the model on
the table surface to break it apart and then they recommended epoxy for
the final bond. I don't recall why you were supposed to break it apart,
but I think it had to do with painting.
Super glue does have the problem of being brittle and sometimes the bond
deteroriates over time. I know this happens with many types of cements
and glues. Stan's way of using reinforcing angle or stripwood is an
excellent idea that I use on nearly all my buildings of any material.
With a couple of exceptions my structures are stable, warp-free and are
holding together. One exception was using Ambroid glue with some gator
foam--it dissolved the foam leaving nothing and it warped a couple of
boxcar floors. So no Ambroid for me. Stan also mentions glue setting
up in the store. I spent some semi-major bucks for Lighting Bond CA
that never really seemed to setup at all. I was gluing down a mess of
the Palace passenger car seats and then the passengers, but they broke
away very easily--finally tossed it.
Bob Werre
PhotoTraxx
On 1/3/13 1:42 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> We are having trouble getting The DSL Shops urethane resin building kits
> to hold together after gluing.
>
>
I've used a combination of Pliobond and CA in the past- the Pliobond
tacks the joint together while the CA bonds. Lately, I've tried
adding a corner reinforcement with Gorilla Glue. The reinforcement
is square stripwood on non-visible corners and brass angle where
visible through large windows.
Buy Gorilla Glue when you're ready to use it- the stuff tends to
harden in the bottle even if unopened. For that matter, I try to
check any glue when buying it. Several years ago, there was a batch
of Plasti-Zap CA that set up in the package while still on hobby shop
shelves.
Stan Stokrocki
