Bill Keep the cold water in a room separate from the hot lead. Will NOT mix well
Jim Lyle Sent from my iPhone On Aug 26, 2013, at 4:58 PM, Bob Werre <[email protected]> wrote: > > > Bill, > > You might recall that several of us here in the Houston Club went to a chain > drive to replace that ribbed belt. It resulted in a much improved drive, but > like lots of drilled plastic on metal shafts--if you make it tight it might > split or if you make it snug, it's likely to slip. So the choice was slip or > split! I ran mine for several years that way. > > So for round three, I chose to go to the SHS F unit trucks and some Overland > motors (via ebay). They are in a state of--"when I get to it" right now. > However mine have very nicely done paint jobs (photo on the S Sig site) and > all the required lights. I replaced my handrails early on as well as adding > winterization hatches, different horns and a few other long forgotten items. > I think your drive method might have been simpler as I have to cut into the > brass floor and fasten some custom made bolsters when the time comes. > However, I have chosen that method and I lack the extra drives from Overland. > Maybe we can get together and have a NMRA/NASG authorized pulling contest! > > I'll mention two things about the original models--first off I think they > were the only Japanese produced brass models in S since the J&L tank car and > they pulled very well. > > Bob Werre > PhotoTraxx > > >> >> It might not look much different than the other day but it really is. I >> scrounged some usable driveshafts. The original “bolsters” are just bent >> sheet metal. It is too thin as well so the sideframes were free to wander. I >> soldered a piece of channel across the width to stiffen it up. The axles >> don’t just pop put of the sideframes now. I changed the body bushing from >> nylon to a brass bushing soldered on to the floor. At the same time I >> converted it to 3MM O Scale truck screws and a chunky spring. >> >> >> >> This drive conversion from the rubber band wonder to conventional was stupid >> simple. I wished I “saw” it earlier. Just clipped to transformer power it is >> pretty quiet too. With the stiffer bolster the wheels can get close to the >> sideframes so there is probably a massive short. I have to address that >> somehow. All wheels are set to insulated on the same side. I have to make >> some wipers for the insulated wheels. >> >> >> >> The handrails are taking a real beating here. They are likely to get removed >> shortly to get redone with new castings and phosphor bronze wire. So much >> for a simple completion! I wished the floor was separate from the drive like >> on Overland diesels. >> >> >> >> If anyone should happen to have a spare fuel tank from the Sunset GP7 or GP9 >> I am interested. This unit has a rather shortened tank. I would not mind >> having a spare. After shortening it I want to float it in cold water and >> fill it with lead to make a chunky weight. Never tried it. It could be a >> hoot. >> >> >> >> A few more hours fiddling then it is going back in the box for another day. >> Gotta start on other things…. >> >> >> >> Thank You, >> Bill Lane >> >> Modeling the Mighty Pennsy & PRSL in 1957 in S Scale since 1987 >> >> See my finished models at: >> http://www.lanestrains.com >> Look at what has been made in PRR in S Scale! >> >> >> >> See my layout progress at: >> >> http://www.lanestrains.com/My_Layout.htm >> >> Custom Train Parts Design >> http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm >> >> PRR Builders Photos Bought, Sold & Traded >> (Trading is MUCH preferred) >> http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls >> >> ***Join the PRR T&HS*** >> The other members are not ALL like me! >> http://www.prrths.com >> http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf >> >> Join the Pennsylvania Reading Seashore Lines Historical Society >> It's FREE to join! http://www.prslhs.com >> Preserving The Memory Of The PRSL >> > > > >
