Good morning:
I am in S Scale. Good, equalized pantographs can be purchased
from American Models (www.americanmodels.com) for their GG1.
I build my own pantographs. They are a beefed up version of what
was presented in "Pantographs that work smoothly" by Robert Hegge. May 1974
Model Railroader, pages 37 through 39. Mine are beefed up as I have this
nasty habit of reaching for something and sideswiping whatever is in the
way. The cat is also a frequent, and welcome visitor. S Scale is big
enough that a cat is not a problem. Although she wishes I would stop
erecting these seas of poles and wire.
I attach my pantographs by adding four brass wire legs onto the
bottom. These fit loosely into four brass tubes on the motor. If the
pantograph hits something, it just comes out of its socket with no damage
other than to my pride.)
I always place the pantograph directly over one of the trucks. This
way the catenary can be centered over the center of the track. For GE style
steeple cabs (which are about 34 feet), I place the pantograph directly over
the cab as it fills the entire cab roof. 34 scale feet is short enough that
a centered pan will not dewire on curves as tight at 19 inches (100 scale
feet).
When I get Baldwin / Westinghouse steeple cabs (and I will have
four), I will place the pantograph on one end like either the South Shore's
Class E motors or CTA's S-103, S-104. (The latter two survive and photos
can be found on the internet.) I will put a dummy pole on the other end to
balance it.
My overhead is for pantograph operation only. Catenary for
pantographs is so easy to erect it is almost a joke. Again, I learned from
a master: "Hanging catenary for pantograph and bow collectors" by Robert
Hegge. October 1973 Model Railroader, pages 56-60. I run exclusively with
pantographs and have never regretted the decision. Although a North Shore
coach with a pantograph on one end does take a little getting used to...
Thorin
Milwaukee, WI
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