Just plain rosin core works fine for me.  However, you must have the
inside of the rail joiner and the rail shiny bright for solder to
stick.  If you get them clean it also helps to tin the surfaces before
assembly.  After soldering you can "reweather" with some flat paint.
It is important to do this so you can solder the joint with minimum heat
applied and avoid over heating plastic ties.
My experience is with AM track but I think it applies to any weathered
rail and joiners. 

Bente and Rance wrote:
> 
> Hi all:
> Back with some more mundane questions on rail soldering.  Anyone out
> there have some experience with soldering SHS flex track?  I am
> soldering some lengths of SHS flex track together before I bend it to
> make a curve.  I have some "weathered" rail joiners.  The flextrack also
> has some "brown" on the sides of the rail.  When I solder the joints,
> should I remove the weathering (brown) on the rail?  What about the
> weathered rail joiners?  Will these solder on reasonably well or should
> I have gotten just plain nickel silver rail joiners?  I do have some HO
> nickel silver rail joiners so could try them, but looking for some
> suggestions from people who have had experience with this type of effort.
> Thanks in advance.
> Rance Velapoldi   (Norway)
> No, I don't currently have any silver solder - forgot to get some on my
> last trip to the US and haven't looked here.  Would this work better
> than just rosin core solder?
> 
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-- 
Chuck Smith of the NASG, Rochester Area S Gaugers (RASG) 
and the S Gauge Chemung Valley Lines. http://home.eznet.net/~cesmith

"It is often wiser to remain silent and be thought a fool
than to speak up and remove all doubt." Mark Twain

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