[MBZ] overheating SDL
Yesterday and today I've worked on the SDL trying to figure out why it is overheating. Yesterday, I first checked to see if the fan clutch was engaging, it's not.well, the radiator isn't hot enough to cause the clutch to engage. Lower hose is cool to the touch, top is HOT. I am also not getting very much heat in the cab when I select defrost and MAX temp. Hrm, so I drained all of the coolant and started pulling some of the system apart and noticed this red, gritty grime coating the inside of EVERYTHING. Hrm, wonder if the PPO (previous-previous owner before Kaleb) tried some of that block/head/radiator sealer? I have modified the old thermostat to be mostly open all the time. Could the cold bottom/hot top problem be a bad water pump and how would I check that? -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case? '83 300SD (241 kmi) '82 300CD (162 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work '85 300D (280,176) parts car
Re: [MBZ] overheating SDL
Sorry about the incorrect time. I modified the T-stat by bending about 1/2 of the radiator flap up and creating a gap for constant flow. I ran it on just water to check for leaks at the t-stat and other hoses, then I dumped a bottle of Prestone flush in and drove it around the neighborhood in 2nd for about 5 minutes...2 different times. 5 minutes is about how long it takes to hit 100-110C. After the first trip, the radiator was still cold but the bottom hose was slightly warmer. After the 2nd trip around, the bottom hose was actually warm to touch, but the center of the radaitor was still coldgrrr. But, I take this to show that the water pump is making an effort, even with resistance, to move coolant through the system. Maybe with time and several more trips with the flush, it'll open the radaitor up. I'm fairly certain the head is cracked or at least the gasket is blown. With the pressure cap off and the engine idling you can see a constant wisp of vapor coming out. With the cap on, it doesn't take long to build enough pressure to cause the cap to release some of it, and that's a continual cycle. Sound right? On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 17:19:48 -0600, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Yesterday and today I've worked on the SDL trying to figure out why it is overheating. Yesterday, I first checked to see if the fan clutch was engaging, it's not.well, the radiator isn't hot enough to cause the clutch to engage. Lower hose is cool to the touch, top is HOT. I am also not getting very much heat in the cab when I select defrost and MAX temp. Hrm, so I drained all of the coolant and started pulling some of the system apart and noticed this red, gritty grime coating the inside of EVERYTHING. Hrm, wonder if the PPO (previous-previous owner before Kaleb) tried some of that block/head/radiator sealer? I have modified the old thermostat to be mostly open all the time. Could the cold bottom/hot top problem be a bad water pump and how would I check that? -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case? '83 300SD (241 kmi) '82 300CD (162 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work '85 300D (280,176) parts car
Re: [MBZ] overheating SDL
Do you still have the silicone oil? I might take a shipment of that On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 16:36:58 -0600, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: the radiator isn't hot enough to cause the clutch to engage. Lower hose is cool to the touch, top is HOT. I am also not getting very much heat in the Your radiator is clogged, perhaps also the heater core. First step would be to flush the system, then try an acid flush. But be prepared to have to replace things like heater core, radiator, and monovalve insert if they indeed did use clog-o-matic on it. So sorry for you. See: http://cathey.dogear.com/SDLcool.html -- Jim -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case? '83 300SD (241 kmi) '82 300CD (162 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work '85 300D (280,176) parts car
Re: [MBZ] overheating SDL
Not everyone has $'s like you :) I'm thinking of making an adapter so I can apply regulated air pressure to the radiator and blow the clogged stuff out. Our water here doesn't have very high pressure.something about being rural and on top of a hill. On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 19:56:32 -0600, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: why do it the hard way? Take the radiator out, and let a radiator shop clean it and verify good flow. I suspect that your t-stat mod might be causing more problem than help, if it can't close the bypass port (don't know whether the bent part prevents that or not). On 10/29/06, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Sorry about the incorrect time. I modified the T-stat by bending about 1/2 of the radiator flap up and creating a gap for constant flow. I ran it on just water to check for leaks at the t-stat and other hoses, then I dumped a bottle of Prestone flush in and drove it around the neighborhood in 2nd for about 5 minutes...2 different times. 5 minutes is about how long it takes to hit 100-110C. After the first trip, the radiator was still cold but the bottom hose was slightly warmer. After the 2nd trip around, the bottom hose was actually warm to touch, but the center of the radaitor was still coldgrrr. But, I take this to show that the water pump is making an effort, even with resistance, to move coolant through the system. Maybe with time and several more trips with the flush, it'll open the radaitor up. I'm fairly certain the head is cracked or at least the gasket is blown. With the pressure cap off and the engine idling you can see a constant wisp of vapor coming out. With the cap on, it doesn't take long to build enough pressure to cause the cap to release some of it, and that's a continual cycle. Sound right? -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case? '83 300SD (241 kmi) '82 300CD (162 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work '85 300D (280,176) parts car
Re: [MBZ] overheating SDL
I fill in the top radiator hose until it trickles out the radiator neck. I also have a Prestone flush tee installed where the block2heater core line is by the oil filter. I've run the car with the water hose attached there to flush the system before adding the flush. On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 20:18:18 -0600, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: How are you filling it? Are you pumping the upper rad hose and crimping the small line to the reservoir? If not, you only have about a gallon in a two gallon system and it's gonna run hot! To purge, squeeze the upper radiator hose flat, then crimp the small line to the reservoir, then let the upper hose go. Coolant will be pulled out of the reservoir into the block. Repeat, adding coolant or flush, whatever, until the level goes up and down but the tank stays at least half full. If the center of the rad stays cold, it's radiator time. Cheaper than a blown engine. Get a new T-stat too, they are cheap. Peter -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case? '83 300SD (241 kmi) '82 300CD (162 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work '85 300D (280,176) parts car
Re: [MBZ] Radiator flushing
what about liquid citric acid?? On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 20:32:00 -0600, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Decalcification calls for 100grams per liter - 100 grams is 3.5 oz. (dry). A liter is approx. a quart. So, for 2 gallons of citric acid solution, I'd dissolve 2 pounds of citric acid in 2 gallons. It should be close enough. On 10/29/06, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 19:02:42 -0700 Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Today, I put in 4.5 cups (at 120 g/cup) of citric acid Oops. Make that 120 g/one-half cup (240 g/cup). -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case? '83 300SD (241 kmi) '82 300CD (162 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work '85 300D (280,176) parts car
Re: [MBZ] overheating SDL
Crack the head? I'm fairly certain that's already done due to the vapor that is constantly flowing from an open pressure cap. On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 20:48:14 -0600, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Luther, won't work. The crud clogging the rad is aluminum phosphate corrosion, most likely (unless you are really lucky and it's only carbonate and will clean out LONG soaking in citric acid). Aluminum phosphate deposits are pretty much impossible to remove when accessable, let along inside the rad tubes. On top of that, if you DO clean then out, it's almost a certainty that the rad will leak shortly. Get a new one, you will eventually crack the head if you don't and that's MUCH more bother and expense. Peter -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case? '83 300SD (241 kmi) '82 300CD (162 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work '85 300D (280,176) parts car
Re: [MBZ] overheating SDL
it's deffinately NOT steam, to light and wispy for steam. On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 21:06:37 -0600, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Serious underfilling will also give you steam, since the head isn't full yet -- a much better situation. Pressure cold is a better indication of cracks in the head. Peter -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case? '83 300SD (241 kmi) '82 300CD (162 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work '85 300D (280,176) parts car
Re: [MBZ] gravel drive/work ways
Oh, do I know this ALL too well. Try using a floor jack on a gravel driveway. On Mon, 30 Oct 2006 18:01:34 -0600, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: snip (which got more fun out in the gravel driveway as the sun went away) -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case? '83 300SD (241 kmi) '82 300CD (162 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work '85 300D (280,176) parts car
Re: [MBZ] gravel drive/work ways
Or...even better, pull an engine using a crane on fairly soft dirt. On Mon, 30 Oct 2006 22:29:58 -0600, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: After 3 days of hard rain. --R Luther Gulseth wrote: Oh, do I know this ALL too well. Try using a floor jack on a gravel driveway. On Mon, 30 Oct 2006 18:01:34 -0600, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: snip (which got more fun out in the gravel driveway as the sun went away) -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case? '83 300SD (241 kmi) '82 300CD (162 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work '85 300D (280,176) parts car
Re: [MBZ] overheating SDL
Drove it for about 30 minutes tonight, most of the time the temp was right around 100, but toward the end I had to kick the heat on to cool it down from 110+. It is finally blowing heat from the vents and the bottom hose at the radiator is getting hot to the touch. Maybe the flush is working finally. I'm going to run the Prestone like this for a few more drives, and then see how things are. Maybe citric acid is next. On Mon, 30 Oct 2006 13:38:02 -0600, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The head has a problem for sure. The question is, what caused it to happen in the first place. Maybe the radiator is plugged up. Luther Gulseth wrote: Sorry about the incorrect time. I modified the T-stat by bending about 1/2 of the radiator flap up and creating a gap for constant flow. I ran it on just water to check for leaks at the t-stat and other hoses, then I dumped a bottle of Prestone flush in and drove it around the neighborhood in 2nd for about 5 minutes...2 different times. 5 minutes is about how long it takes to hit 100-110C. After the first trip, the radiator was still cold but the bottom hose was slightly warmer. After the 2nd trip around, the bottom hose was actually warm to touch, but the center of the radaitor was still coldgrrr. But, I take this to show that the water pump is making an effort, even with resistance, to move coolant through the system. Maybe with time and several more trips with the flush, it'll open the radaitor up. I'm fairly certain the head is cracked or at least the gasket is blown. With the pressure cap off and the engine idling you can see a constant wisp of vapor coming out. With the cap on, it doesn't take long to build enough pressure to cause the cap to release some of it, and that's a continual cycle. Sound right? On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 17:19:48 -0600, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Yesterday and today I've worked on the SDL trying to figure out why it is overheating. Yesterday, I first checked to see if the fan clutch was engaging, it's not.well, the radiator isn't hot enough to cause the clutch to engage. Lower hose is cool to the touch, top is HOT. I am also not getting very much heat in the cab when I select defrost and MAX temp. Hrm, so I drained all of the coolant and started pulling some of the system apart and noticed this red, gritty grime coating the inside of EVERYTHING. Hrm, wonder if the PPO (previous-previous owner before Kaleb) tried some of that block/head/radiator sealer? I have modified the old thermostat to be mostly open all the time. Could the cold bottom/hot top problem be a bad water pump and how would I check that? -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case? '83 300SD (241 kmi) '82 300CD (162 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work '85 300D (280,176) parts car
Re: [MBZ] gravel drive/work ways
DITTO, but, I have the luxury of my neighbor's shop in about 2 weeks once the concrete is poored and setshould be able to park 4-5 cars in it, covered, locked, etc. On Mon, 30 Oct 2006 22:47:07 -0600, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: BTDT - don't want to do it again. I poured a fair amount of concrete to avoid just that. Our single car drive is now three cars wide. On 10/30/06, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Or...even better, pull an engine using a crane on fairly soft dirt. -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case? '83 300SD (241 kmi) '82 300CD (162 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work '85 300D (280,176) parts car
Re: [MBZ] FW: Ultra Low sulfur Diesel
I have read that even B2 will increase the lubricity of dinoD. B5, B10, (ah, why not...) B100 are much better :) On Wed, 01 Nov 2006 00:10:50 -0600, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks for posting that very informative aritcle. It, along with the other input, pretty much answers my questions. So looks like when I run ULSD I should periodically use an additive to lubricate things (or perhaps every tankful - guess there's another question). Or I could just add some B 99 or 100 biodiesel, eh? I'm thinking two or three gallons per tankful of ULSD? (uneducated guess). Brian 83 240D -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case? '83 300SD (241 kmi) '82 300CD (162 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work '85 300D (280,176) parts car
Re: [MBZ] GP Infant Mortality
30-0-30 ammeter. On Wed, 01 Nov 2006 22:33:54 -0600, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Got my 2 new GPs today so tomorow I'll try to find out what the problem is. To refresh memory - I have new GPs and new GP relay - preglow light goes out within 1 sec. of turning the key) That sounds like a problem internal to the GP relay. These things are likely NOS, not new-new, and the timing capacitor could have aged to death before you ever got it. I got my DMM out and set it to Resistance - using a new GP I touched the threads at the top and the threads that contact the cylinder head - got a reading of .3 - then I crossed the leads and the reading was .0 - is it OK that my DMM doesn't have a reading greater than .0? Yes, you just cross the leads to find out what its idea of zero is, and then subtract that from your reading. How do I tell if my DMM will measure current in the range you mentioned -- Was it exceedingly expensive? Then maybe. It's usually clearly written on the face somewhere, if it does current at all. I'm thinking I need at least a 30A max? But I think my DMM is good for 0A's - it's from Radio Shack -- Most DMM's have a 10A current scale, if they have anything at all. To measure more requires a shunt, rarely seen these days, or a relatively expensive clamp-on DC ammeter probe. Even my $300 Fluke only goes to 10A without the 400A external probe (another $200 IIRC). Attempts to measure more than 10A results in blowing its internal fuse, an item that costs more than an entire DMM from Harbor Freight. An old-fashioned charging gauge from the auto parts store could work, those are usually 60A over a half-scale, so are a bit too crude to get a good measurement off of. It would have detected my one bad one that had 2x normal current, however. -- Jim -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case? '83 300SD (241 kmi) '82 300CD (162 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work '85 300D (280,176) parts car
[MBZ] overheating SDL
Removed the monovalve insert tonight, it was clogged with the red-sandlike radiator/block/head sealer stuff from the PPO. So, I installed one I replaced in my SD (before I discovered that the coil was bad) and suddenly I have heat in the car. So, I took it on a drive tonight, about 5 miles on the interstate at 70-75mph. It never got over 95 on the interstate, and would get up to about 105 at a stop light. That was with full heat in the cab and 30's outside. The radiator was still stone cold in the center...grrr. Tomorrow I'm going to drain the Prestone and flush until it's clear, then I'm going to run some citric acid for a while and flush it out. We'll see what the radiator does then. Maybe I'll be shopping for another radiator. but I'm still hoping that it'll clear out. -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case? '83 300SD (241 kmi) '82 300CD (162 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work '85 300D (280,176) parts car
[MBZ] Fw: [Biodiesel] Mercedes diesel for salel
- Forwarded Message From: Ed Normandy [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2006 3:43:25 PM Subject: [Biodiesel] Mercedes diesel for salel I'll be putting my 1986 300SDL on eBay soon and thought I would give the list first crack at it. It's a Black sedan with the six cylinder Diesel. 192700 miles. Looks and runs great. I paid $4,500.00 for it 6 months ago and spent $700.00 getting the air to blow cold. I'm asking $4,500.00 It's in Mountain Home Arkansas. Anyone interested can email me thegeekynerd@ hotmail.com for pic's and more info. Ed Normandy
