from:"\"Richard Rose\""

Re: [RBW] Re: Knicker Quest

2024-09-16 Thread Richard Rose

A few(?) years ago they became available - last run? My wonderful daughters got me a pair. They are really nice & I wear them often. Surprised they do not still offer them.Sent from my iPhoneOn Sep 16, 2024, at 4:40 PM, Igor wrote:Resurrecting this old discussion. RH has never restocked. I've emailed Jitensha to find out if those are still available.. Any new findings?On Monday, March 2, 2020 at 7:19:02 PM UTC-5 Ron Mc wrote:I managed over a few yearsto find two other knicker brands both on closeout that I like, and of course, now also discontinued. MUSA spoiled me for the cinch at the bottom that keeps cold air from my knees. I looked at everything offered on this page. The Keela SF, also discontinued, look perfect by the last pair that was on ebay. The Aerotech looked good enough, I bought a pair.

Re: [RBW] Re: “The Art of Taking it Slow” in The New Yorker

2024-09-16 Thread Richard Rose

Great read. Sadly I currently have a bad cold & it’s a lovely day. So I am just sitting here - enjoying the veritable bird paradise that is our property, wishing I was riding my bike. Maybe tomorrow.:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Sep 16, 2024, at 1:19 PM, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:The writer made such gorgeous language out of it. Favorite quotes:“But I felt, instead, a very adult sense of longing—as if I had just glimpsed, at a deeply inconvenient time, a new and appealing way to live.”“Rivendell’s employees object to descriptions of the company’s following as cultlike. “The other stuff is the cult,” Keating told me.” “There was something romantic about the Rivendells. They made the other bikes on the road look mean.”“The strength and fearlessness of the others filled me with an almost indescribable envy. What was it like to leave for a long ride at dusk—or cycle off into the woods with a sleeping bag, a patch kit, and some groceries—and be reasonably assured you’d have a great night? The world seemed divided between two types of people: those with a command of the physical world, and everyone else. The former had confidence, skill, and know-how; the rest of us had YouTube tutorials on removing anti-theft skewers.” This was a gorgeous piece of writing that rightly celebrates a brilliant man. I’m so happy for him. I’m sure he hates the attention.LeahOn Monday, September 16, 2024 at 12:24:46 PM UTC-4 Caroline Golum wrote:Can confirm the Riv to birding pipeline is realOn Monday, September 16, 2024 at 11:32:24 AM UTC-4 ben.r...@gmail.com wrote:dan!g you beat me to posting this! its a good read and as a " mid 30s tattooed skater who rides in cut off dickies and vans" I was a little triggered to learn that I'm very "bird watching adjacent". Ben "little brother" ROn Monday, September 16, 2024 at 7:29:21 AM UTC-7 Roberta wrote:It’s about Grant, Rivendell, philosophies, …. You can read one New Yorker article for free. https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2024/09/23/the-art-of-taking-it-slow

Re: [RBW] Re: 43mm-46mm 650b Tire Options.

2024-09-13 Thread Richard Rose

Easy answer; Simworks Homage 650/27.5 x 43 (or 55). Both fantastic and on sale now for just $54.00. Sent from my iPhoneOn Sep 13, 2024, at 2:07 PM, Jason Fuller wrote:There certainly isn't much out there. I ordered 650Bx43 Gravel King SK's from Germany and they measure quite true to size and are great all-rounder tires in my opinion. The shipping is costly, but the tires themselves were cheap; I ordered two pair and the total was cheaper than US MSRP for GK's. I ordered thru bike-components.de. They also have the nice Schwalbe tubes On Thursday 12 September 2024 at 15:45:03 UTC-7 Ken Mattina wrote:I like the 47mm Teravail Rampart tires.On Thu, Sep 12, 2024 at 3:05 PM christian poppell wrote:I'll put in a plug for the Soma Cazaderos. The 48 version runs small and would be a great choice if you're looking for a semi knobbed tire below 48mm.On Thursday, September 12, 2024 at 11:59:43 AM UTC-7 John Bokman wrote:I ride 700c, but agree that Bruce Gordon R&R are excellent tires! Fantastic on the rough stuff, and good on pavement. The owners are great people, too, providing excellent customer support.I am a big fan of Panaracer tires, having ridden various iterations for years. My current favorite for city riding is the Pasella Protite. Very comfy tires, with better puncture resistance than the original. They offer great grip on pavement - and they do surprisingly well on dirt. However, I wish they came in a 700cx40 or 42. The fattest is a 38mm. JohnOn Thursday, September 12, 2024 at 10:35:41 AM UTC-7 Kyle Cotchett wrote:If you are into knobby tires, I am currently riding some bruce gordon 43mm rock n roads on my bleriot. I love mine. They rip on trail paths and didnt feel slowed down on pavement. They do make that nice treaded hum on pavement if youre into that sort of thing.KyleOn Thursday, September 12, 2024 at 8:19:43 AM UTC-7 Michael Baquerizo wrote:https://www.modernbike.com/panaracer-t-serv-protite-folding-tire-650b-x-44mm-blacksorry i never measured what mine come out to on a set of VO voyager rims. I use these on my 'commuter' (i'm freelance so i don't often commute) but have and ride around NYC with these.On Thursday, September 12, 2024 at 10:43:40 AM UTC-4 pbsm...@gmail.com wrote:Not sure I've seen anything marked between 42-584 and 48-584. Smitty in DCOn Wednesday, September 11, 2024 at 9:50:57 AM UTC-4 David B wrote:Curious what true 43mm-46mm 650b tire options are currently available. I'm using Velocity Atlas rims, so 'true' meaning they'll measure that on those rims. I setup my Riv Redwood (glad I kept) as 650b for a while now and am running 48mm Pari Motos (slightly undersized). They're mighty close to the chainstays, so looking for something slightly smaller. Asking for 43mm as it seems many of the current 42mm are undersized. Thanks!David

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Re: [RBW] Re: Ro-Deux-No build notes New Bike Day

2024-09-08 Thread Richard Rose

Thanks Mark.Sent from my iPhoneOn Sep 8, 2024, at 8:57 PM, Mark V wrote:Hi R.M. - apologies for being the Monkey's Paw or open side down horseshoe ... or Eeyore's rain cloud...I believe the seat binder bolts are 5mm. And 10N-m install torque is a good number -- here's chart giving guidelines for bolt size; fastener grade; and install torque. https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/metric-bolts-maximum-torque-d_2054.html -- I tried to read the grade stamped into my RoadUno bolt head, and I think it's a 12.9. (my eyes ain't what they used to be and maybe never were)If you think you might have additional slippage issue, you can also schmear carbon paste around the seat tube. The little carbone bits add some interference. I've not noticed any more slipping after greasing the binder bolt and adding a bit of paste. As mentioned previously, I have a GUNNAR CrossHairs that slipped when I used a nicely polished NITTO post. Wish I had greased that binder bolt, but didn't think/know to do that. The paste helped, but eventually a cheap(er) Kalloy UNO worked better. I think it still had slight grooves from the machining processes. Cheers!mark v. On Sunday, September 8, 2024 at 6:45:45 PM UTC-4 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:Still curious about a torque recommendation. Clearly mine is not tight enough.Sent from my iPhoneOn Sep 8, 2024, at 5:54 PM, Jay wrote:Forgot to mention, if I would have done what Bill mentions above, I likely would have never had the original issue.On Sunday, September 8, 2024 at 5:52:57 PM UTC-4 Jay wrote:I can't recall if I had started a thread or contributed to one when I had stripped the binder bolt on my Roadini, but as I recall, I went to a local nut/bolt store with the stripped one in hand. I bought 4 new bolts with nuts (one set is in my seat bag ;-). The original nut has some plastic or something within it (I can't recall the name?), and the store told me not to use that style (plus they didn't have it - so who knows which is better). Anyhow, I used the new bolt and nut, blue thread lock on the bolt, and a bit of anti-seize compound on the post. I put a bit of tape on the back of my post to check for slippage. That was a few months ago and so far so good (and I've loosened the bolt once to drop the post a bit; a few weeks ago, and still good).On Sunday, September 8, 2024 at 4:43:06 PM UTC-4 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:Man, you all jinxed me. I’ve not experienced post slippage on either of my two Riv’s. Or so I thought. All the talk of greasing binder bolts caused me to double check. On my Clem the post had actually slipped incrementally over time. It was about 2cm low. The bolt was greased but I made sure it was more thorough on reassembly. My Gus was similarly greased but I cleaned / regreased anyway. Snugged it up nicely with a “T” handle wrench & went for a beautiful 12 mile singletrack ride. It was so good and so beautiful I decided to do a second lap. I hit a bump (one of many) and you’d have thought I had a dropper post! I always carry a multi tool - but not today. I took a shortcut back to car & called it a day.So.., what is the prevailing opinion on proper torque for these things? Mine was tight enough that cranking it any more would take some effort. I do not want to break a bolt as has happened to others here. Thanks in advance for your valued input.Sent from my iPhoneOn Sep 4, 2024, at 7:14 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:Just to close the loop, when I said in my Original Post that I disassembled 100% of the stuff that was assembled, the purpose of that step was to grease everything that needs grease, including the seat post bolt. The most important place for grease is between the head of the bolt and the lug itself. On the threads is nice also. Grease up that bolt, so you can easily snug it up. Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CAOn Wednesday, September 4, 2024 at 7:41:42 AM UTC-7 mvie...@gmail.com wrote:>> busted <

Re: [RBW] Re: Ro-Deux-No build notes New Bike Day

2024-09-08 Thread Richard Rose

Still curious about a torque recommendation. Clearly mine is not tight enough.Sent from my iPhoneOn Sep 8, 2024, at 5:54 PM, Jay wrote:Forgot to mention, if I would have done what Bill mentions above, I likely would have never had the original issue.On Sunday, September 8, 2024 at 5:52:57 PM UTC-4 Jay wrote:I can't recall if I had started a thread or contributed to one when I had stripped the binder bolt on my Roadini, but as I recall, I went to a local nut/bolt store with the stripped one in hand. I bought 4 new bolts with nuts (one set is in my seat bag ;-). The original nut has some plastic or something within it (I can't recall the name?), and the store told me not to use that style (plus they didn't have it - so who knows which is better). Anyhow, I used the new bolt and nut, blue thread lock on the bolt, and a bit of anti-seize compound on the post. I put a bit of tape on the back of my post to check for slippage. That was a few months ago and so far so good (and I've loosened the bolt once to drop the post a bit; a few weeks ago, and still good).On Sunday, September 8, 2024 at 4:43:06 PM UTC-4 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:Man, you all jinxed me. I’ve not experienced post slippage on either of my two Riv’s. Or so I thought. All the talk of greasing binder bolts caused me to double check. On my Clem the post had actually slipped incrementally over time. It was about 2cm low. The bolt was greased but I made sure it was more thorough on reassembly. My Gus was similarly greased but I cleaned / regreased anyway. Snugged it up nicely with a “T” handle wrench & went for a beautiful 12 mile singletrack ride. It was so good and so beautiful I decided to do a second lap. I hit a bump (one of many) and you’d have thought I had a dropper post! I always carry a multi tool - but not today. I took a shortcut back to car & called it a day.So.., what is the prevailing opinion on proper torque for these things? Mine was tight enough that cranking it any more would take some effort. I do not want to break a bolt as has happened to others here. Thanks in advance for your valued input.Sent from my iPhoneOn Sep 4, 2024, at 7:14 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:Just to close the loop, when I said in my Original Post that I disassembled 100% of the stuff that was assembled, the purpose of that step was to grease everything that needs grease, including the seat post bolt. The most important place for grease is between the head of the bolt and the lug itself. On the threads is nice also. Grease up that bolt, so you can easily snug it up. Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CAOn Wednesday, September 4, 2024 at 7:41:42 AM UTC-7 mvie...@gmail.com wrote:>> busted <

Re: [RBW] Re: Ro-Deux-No build notes New Bike Day

2024-09-08 Thread Richard Rose

Man, you all jinxed me. I’ve not experienced post slippage on either of my two Riv’s. Or so I thought. All the talk of greasing binder bolts caused me to double check. On my Clem the post had actually slipped incrementally over time. It was about 2cm low. The bolt was greased but I made sure it was more thorough on reassembly. My Gus was similarly greased but I cleaned / regreased anyway. Snugged it up nicely with a “T” handle wrench & went for a beautiful 12 mile singletrack ride. It was so good and so beautiful I decided to do a second lap. I hit a bump (one of many) and you’d have thought I had a dropper post! I always carry a multi tool - but not today. I took a shortcut back to car & called it a day.So.., what is the prevailing opinion on proper torque for these things? Mine was tight enough that cranking it any more would take some effort. I do not want to break a bolt as has happened to others here. Thanks in advance for your valued input.Sent from my iPhoneOn Sep 4, 2024, at 7:14 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:Just to close the loop, when I said in my Original Post that I disassembled 100% of the stuff that was assembled, the purpose of that step was to grease everything that needs grease, including the seat post bolt. The most important place for grease is between the head of the bolt and the lug itself. On the threads is nice also. Grease up that bolt, so you can easily snug it up. Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CAOn Wednesday, September 4, 2024 at 7:41:42 AM UTC-7 mvie...@gmail.com wrote:>> busted <

Re: [RBW] Re: Looking for a 59cm Clem

2024-09-06 Thread Richard Rose

Chris, same! Or at least similar. Mine is a 52 & I fluctuate between 170-175lbs. I CAN make the bike flex (grab the bars and shake from side to side) but it simply does not happen under normal riding. Any flex I do get is likely part & parcel of the comfortable ride? I had a PX10 once. That was the only bike I’ve ever owned that I would describe as “noodley”. YRMV.Sent from my iPhoneOn Sep 6, 2024, at 4:10 PM, Chris Halasz  wrote:Subjective data point: At twelve stone (168lbs) I have yet to experience the often stated flex on a (64cm) Clem, even with a couple rear panniers of produce, or while accelerating along an extended climb (without panniers, mind you) while passing the majority of our weekly cycling group (I like be the broom wagon, in case of mechanicals, on the flats).  On Thursday, September 5, 2024 at 9:49:06 PM UTC-7 iamkeith wrote:FWIW,  I think we discussed and resolved the question of whether the Clem H geometry changed along with the Clem L before being dropped, a couple or few years back.  This isn't gospel, but the consensus was that it didn't.  Here's an archived geometry table from, from when both were available, and they were different.  The H didn't last much longer after this.https://web.archive.org/web/20200413014654/https://www.rivbike.com/pages/geometryThoughts for Patrick, while I'm at it:  I have the first 59 Clem H.  Do I wish it had a longer top tube and slacker head tube?  You bet!  I wished this from the moment I got it.  Would I give up my H for an L?  Not unless I had to, at my size and weight. The diamond frame is noodley enough.  If I didn't have the H would I get an L?  Absolutely.  I never want to be without this bike again.  (I gave it away when I was waiting on a Susie, but got it back.)  In other words, I don't think you'll regret it or go wrong, no matter which one you find. Also, to satisfy your single-speed/IGH penchant, maybe look into the EBB that Velo Orange offers?  The Clem unfortunately has a 68mm bb shell, but there are still options to make an x-type crank work.  An idea for your hip pocket if you ever feel it's needed.https://velo-orange.com/products/eccentric-bottom-bracket-bsa?srsltid=AfmBOorYXqngBK0Qlnq_HdKzQiRn3J59wqUXQQBFiOFcHlwZ38F3HO9ZOn Thursday, September 5, 2024 at 9:35:52 PM UTC-6 David B wrote:My 2014 (?, is that the first year) Clem has a 64cm top tube, same as the 60cm Appaloosa I was considering.On Thursday, September 5, 2024 at 4:05:05 PM UTC-5 Tom L. wrote:I have a 2017 Clem-H in 59 and the top tube is 25.5" center to center which is 1" longer than my 2022 Atlantis in 59. On Thursday, September 5, 2024 at 10:33:56 AM UTC-7 David B wrote:To chime in as a long time 59cm Clem (H) rider: I have the first run version which has a shorter top tube than the current L versions. The H might possibly have gotten a longer top tube at some point before it was discontinued. I've hemmed/hawed over the years about 'upgrading' to an Atlantis or Appa, and after digging in to geometry charts, it appears my Clem is nearly identical geometrically to the Appa in a similar size, so I'm sticking with what I have. This is all to say if anyone if looking at the used market for an H (not mine, not for sale), it'd be worth it to get an actual measurement of the top tube.David (been a long while since I've participated on this list)On Wednesday, September 4, 2024 at 8:46:40 AM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:Thanks, Garth. I hadn't followed the model's genesis.Can any owner and rider say how the H compares in handling and overall "fit and feel" to the L?Does anyone know where to find the geom specs for the H?Thanks.On Tue, Sep 3, 2024 at 11:27 AM Garth  wrote:Patrick, the first Clems were made in 2 styles, the normal top tube (H)is and the low tube (L)adies, originally called Clementine., an awesome name. The story I read alleges "someone" took offense to the frame name/designation, so apparently Grant gave in to the insanity and changed it. Well I'm so offended by anyone who had a thing against the name designations Clementine and Ladies. (tongue in cheek). No what ? (( laughing )).   Those frames are a bit shorter in the front end than the current model design that began in 2019 or so.  What you may pay for any of them has everything to do with whatever satisfies the seller. Could be nothing, $20, $2000. (( shrugs and a smile )).  On Tuesday, September 3, 2024 at 12:52:23 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:What is the difference between the Clem L and the Clem H? Are there any other Clem models besides the L and H? If so, pray, what? And how are they different from the L and H?Last question: Are any of these models likely to be cheaper on the used market than others?Thanks.On Tue, Sep 3, 2024 at 10:25 AM Tristen Moss  wrote:At this point I’m pretty dead set on a 59 Clem L.  On Monday, September 2, 2024 at 3:41:59 PM UTC-7 Tom wrote:Very welcome.  Have you considered a used H model in a 59? 



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Re: [RBW] Clem musings

2024-08-31 Thread Richard Rose

Interesting. Are you (did you?) use the Ergon GC1 - the ones specifically made for swept back bars? I have them on my Clem with Bosco’s & Gus with Hope Cyclery Albacore. The clamp is hard but does not come into play for me. I too am pretty obsessed with these handlebars & yes, you almost cannot make them too high.Sent from my iPhoneOn Aug 30, 2024, at 11:04 PM, David Ross wrote:The Ergons aren’t great for swept bars. I have a pair on my Gus and they’re about to be replaced. The issue is the hard retaining clamp at the back of the grip. I have a pair of these on one of my other bikes and they are hands down the best ergos for swept bars:https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/equipment/bike-accessories/bike-handlebar-grips-tape/bike-handlebar-grips/bontrager-xr-endurance-elite-recycled-grip-set/p/5277812/These are relatively soft yet durable and they’re much easier on the hands. Really fat grips like the Jones Bar grips also work well for me, but I prefer lock on grips. I’m unhealthily obsessed with swept bars and have probably spent more time and money than I should have getting the right fit. They are really difficult to set up correctly as there are so many variable. Bar height is one of the most critical elements and I’ve found that the higher the bar, the less everything else matters. I ride some really technical stuff on my bikes, so I prefer a wider bar for better leg clearance. I have my bars made by Keaton at Doom Bars, and I highly recommend this route if you’re having a hard time finding the right fit. I just installed some of his bars on my Gus. They’re basically oversized albatross bars that measure 707mm wide. On Thu, Aug 29, 2024 at 6:46 PM Patrick Moore wrote:Breaking off from the Gus thread to think out loud about a Clem addition to my stable.Tire width: thanks, Nick; that's really good to know. Has the Clem design been altered recently to allow fatter tires? I have vague memories of asking about max tire width several times before and hearing that ~50 mm was max ...?Just looked at the frame specs: max width for all sizes is given as 55 mm? Is this just proactive conservatism?Bar: Alexis: I'd really like to try something like the Billie or Choco or Albatross flipped upside down; or perhaps a much narrower North Road ditto, since I dislike really wide bars; but I've at least a score of non-drops and have never, ever found one that doesn't hurt my left palm -- very sensitive -- after a couple of miles. The closest was a Map Ahearne bar severely trimmed with Ergon grips, but even with that, going back to a (basically no-reach) Hover drop, this on the long-tt Monocog, was like coming home again.I see that the effective tt for the 59 is 68.5 mm. I'll have to figure out how much of that you get back from the 71.5* sta and the 69.5 hta compared to my usual ~56.5 cm with 73 sta. But I suppose I could get back 60 or 70 mm with a no-reach stem compare to my usual 80 and use a very short reach bar like the 70 mm Hover instead of the 115 mm-reach RH Maes Parallel and make up any leftovers with the higher bar placement I'd expect for such a bike.In fact, with the max tire width no longer a question, the 2 remaining hesitations are vertical dropouts and the bar question. Oh, and a third: the temptation to keep upgrading a nice beater until I am no longer comfortable leaving it locked outside.I want to use an IGH or single speed hub. I could use hubs with a freewheel and use a tensioner but I'd really like a fixed drivetrain. I'm tempted to try the floating chainring chain tensioning solution which should be relatively easy with the very long stays.So the upshot is I want to take a nice frame and use it for something contrary to what it was designed for. I suppose that's typical.Meanwhile I'll fret about it until, maybe, I do something about it. But a Clem is on a provisional short list.On Wed, Aug 28, 2024 at 12:35 PM Nick Shoemaker wrote:... @Patrick: My Clem is a size 64 on 700c Cliffhangers ( 25mm internal width) running tubes - I didn't have calipers on hand, but my measuring tape estimate came to ~65-66mm for the 29x2.6" Mezcal. It certainly runs bigger than the 29x2.6" Nobby Nic that I used for a short time, which is my only other point of reference. I also totally agree with you on unpaved tire pressures - back in my 'racy' days I would run ~16psi on my tubeless 26x2.4" - even 20psi resulted in a noticeable hit to traction. I'm about 20lbs heaver now (140>160), but I'm guessing I had the big Mezcals down to ~20psi with tubes on my last ride and they felt great.On Wed, Aug 28, 2024 at 3:04 PM R. Alexis wrote:Patrick,What non drop bars are you considering? The Alt-Bars that are out there seem to work well. At least for me. I have a set of early Jones titanium H-Bars with the J bend on my Waterford 1400 mountain bike and a set of Surly Open Bars on the Gary Fisher Gemini tandem mounted on the front. Both bars are comfortable. I have seve

Re: [RBW] Re: Iterations on my Purple RoadUno

2024-08-30 Thread Richard Rose

Ditto!Sent from my iPhoneOn Aug 30, 2024, at 4:35 PM, Ryan wrote:All these Roaduno builds are giving me a serious case of FOMObut seriously, I should be riding the bikes I have :) That purple is growing on me and the stock bike with the personalized touches (sticker on seat tube and the rattlesnakey bar tape ) looks great. Yup those King Iris cages are so nice.I'm glad you're enjoying the bikeOn Friday, August 30, 2024 at 11:14:03 AM UTC-5 mvie...@gmail.com wrote:First Spin yesterday. 26 miles of dirt roads. The stock - out of the box - set up is really nice. Mostly what I'm comparing to are: my '89 Panasonic MountainCat (26in wheels); my GUNNAR CrossHairs (rim brake'd version from 2019); and a Surly SteamRoller I ride fixed dirt and pavement. Unfortunately I do not have the sensitivities of Jan Heine's.. hiney (i digress for the moment) - any-way - on my typical dirty road load with small pebbles, here and there ruts and copious potholes, I really love the ride. These tires are a bit fatter than the GUNNAR and SURLY clear. And the GUNNAR only recently got some #SuppleLife tires. I love the look of these MKS gamma pedals. But I can feel why the RivBike folks added those wing-thing deals. These are narrow than I was expecting. I got wide size 12s. I'm digging the bars. I slammed the stem and then gave it 1mm clearance to the top lock nut. Then angle the bars and lever to clear the top tube for the first time the bike falls over at the pub I mean coffee shop. Probably I raise the seat a few more mm, slam the seat all the way back, and slightly raise the bars so I can tilt the bars down a bit more. Oh - the bars, I flipped them upside down. King Cages arrived right as I'm typing this. I'll post some Detroit City ride pics with those installed this weekend. Cheers

Re: [RBW] Re: FS: ZPacks Plex Solo and accessories

2024-08-29 Thread Richard Rose

That’s a really cool tent.Sent from my iPhoneOn Aug 29, 2024, at 3:01 PM, Ryan Frahm  wrote:I’m sure this isn’t a desirable item to most here but it is a great tent. Bumping just in case. Open to offers. Thanks!On Sunday, August 18, 2024 at 3:48:07 PM UTC-7 Ryan Frahm wrote:Used on one trip. I like the weight but prefer the setup of my other tent. 12 titanium stakes, carbon pole and titanium trowel thrown in because it fits so well in the stake bag. Asking $500 +shipping. Pictures show 576g with everything!



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Re: [RBW] Re: Roaduno v.1

2024-08-29 Thread Richard Rose

I assume this one is a 58? What is the saddle height on yours?Sent from my iPhoneOn Aug 29, 2024, at 12:23 PM, Edwin W wrote:I am just starting my build.. as usual learning a lot along the way even though this is the simplest build I could possibly do!I will add as I proceed to this album: https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjBFggAEdwinOn Thursday, August 29, 2024 at 7:11:50 AM UTC-5 nlerner wrote:Finished building up my 54.5 cm Roaduno yesterday and took it for a short test ride. Very smooth! Slack seat tube angle! Amazingly tall stack height! In terms of the last, I’m concerned that the stem I’m using is too short and that the wedge is tightening against the threaded part of the steerer; I need to measure. Size-wise, I’m very pleased. For reference, my saddle height is 73cm from center of crank to top of saddle.I have it set up as a single speed now, but will likely go for a 2 x 1 configuration once I’ve finished building a set of wheels (vintage Phil Wood hubs and Sun M13 polished rims). Current bolt-on wheels are from my Milwaukee single speed, which can only run max 30mm tires without fenders. As shown the Roaduno is set up with 700 x 44 RH tires, and there’s ample clearance. I’m very happy about that.One pic attached; others here: https://www.flickr.com/gp/8858391@N04/Ctp08nZo74Neal LernerBrookline MA

Re: [RBW] Gus Boots a-go-go

2024-08-24 Thread Richard Rose

Could not agree more. Yes, 2.6” Honchos at 23-24psi is great. With you on the bars but my sweet spot for sweep us 50 degrees. Control is fantastic. My B17 actually works very good for me even through the rocky / rooty sections. Of course I “float” above the saddle quite a bit. As for the shifting; mine got a lot better with a switch to rapid rise. It’s just so nice to start up a hill knowing how easy it is to get an easier gear. As I’ve said before - Gus is a MOUNTAIN BIKE!Sent from my iPhoneOn Aug 24, 2024, at 12:10 PM, David Ross wrote:

I found myself on an unplanned ride today with my Gus Boots Willsen, and let me say, it’s a real mountain bike—no doubt about it. Sure, it’s also a hillibike and a damn good cruiser, but until now, I’d been treating it like a dad gravel rig, cruising along the easy paths. Today, though, I was out there with a buddy on a full suspension beast, and the Gus held its ground.
But let’s talk about the shifting. Friction shifting is a cruel mistress. I found myself hesitating to shift, worried I’d miss a gear while ascending, so I sort of grunted it out in a select few gears. It’s the only ride I’ve been on in a while that made me lust for indexed shifting. The 2.25-inch cross-country tires I’m currently running? Not ideal. A wider tire with lower pressure would have been a game changer, no question about it. Surprisingly, my 70 degree swept handlebars were an actual blessing as they allowed me to keep my weight back while descending.
Thank the gods for the SQ Labs 602 saddle—padded and ready for the chaos of rocky terrain. I shudder to think what it would have been like on one of my Brooks saddles. I was seated, navigating through a minefield of rocks, without a dropper post to save my undercarriage from abuse.
I’ve ridden my fair share of 90s mountain bikes, and I’ll tell you this: the Gus is a more capable singletrack machine with its improved geometry. Today’s ride opened my eyes. The Gus is more than just a hillibike. It’s an all-rounder, ready for whatever madness the trail throws at you, so long as you’re keeping the rubber on the ground.

Re: [RBW] Ro-Deux-No build notes New Bike Day

2024-08-20 Thread Richard Rose

Dave, I think my saddle height of 72.5 - 3cm less than Bills - and looking at Bills pics puts me solidly in the 54.5 camp.:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Aug 20, 2024, at 8:58 AM, DavidP wrote:Looks great, Bill. I think my favorite detail is the purple BB cable guide. I like the 2x1(x2) setup and the custom stop on the DT shifter sounds and looks like a very nice ergonomic detail. My iBob cheap bike Univega has aero / top-mount DT shifters and I found that I liked having the shifter proud of the DT there. Looking forward to the Diablo summit.Richard, I'm also a bit in between two sizes. At 5'11" with an 87cm PBH the 585mm ETT of the 54cm would work with either drops or swept back bars by changing stem length. If I wanted the bike to fit more like my 60cm Platypus though I'd want the 58cm for its 605mm ETT, and given the type of bike and my intended use that'd be my preference. I have my doubts on stand over but it seems I'd have slightly more clearance than Bill does.-DaveOn Tuesday, August 20, 2024 at 7:48:44 AM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:Nice! and your shop is quite the Aladdin's cave as well.Not that it's disorganized but I could see how you'd lose track of your chain inventoryOn Tuesday, August 20, 2024 at 6:33:52 AM UTC-5 Richard Rose wrote:Bill, 5’10”? That surprised me. I’ve not ordered a Roaduno but thought if I did it would be a 54. I am 5’10” also but use a 72-73 saddle height. Perhaps your legs are longer than mine or maybe it’s my preferred mid-foot flat pedal position which tends to lower the saddle. Bike looks great!Sent from my iPhoneOn Aug 20, 2024, at 12:57 AM, Bill Lindsay <tape...@gmail.com> wrote:I'm 5'10". My Saddle Height is 75.5cm, so I think that makes me a 86cm PBH guy. BL in ECOn Monday, August 19, 2024 at 9:55:21 PM UTC-7 P W wrote:Wow Bill - first happy customer this side of the ocean?Guess that means mine will be shipping shortly, too…Exciting times!The little tweaks you’ve made so far to the build are all excellent. And I agree, the stance/silhouette looks ideal as it is.Can I ask how tall you are?Curious how exactly the same size (58) is gonna feel and fit when I get my hands on it!P. W.~(917) 514-2207~On Aug 19, 2024, at 9:41 PM, Bill Lindsay <tape...@gmail.com> wrote:I went to Riv HQ and picked up my 58cm Complete RoadUno. I picked up the bike in the box to do the build myself. I also splurged on an extra 250mm length Nitto S83 seat post. I did pretty much the whole build this afternoon, except I neglected to secure a chain. I thought I had plenty of chain-stock on hand, but it turns out I only had 10sp chains, which I'm not prepared to deploy just yet. The setup was straightforward, but I did completely disassemble everything that was pre-assembled in the complete. The frame set is not light: 5.83 pounds for the 58cm frame with headset cups, 2.18 pounds for the fork with enormously long steerer. The new svelte Silver 3 cranks are roughly 25% lighter than the Silver 1 cranks. Thread chasing was necessary on the RD hanger, but it was aligned perfectly. Most but not all of the H2O bolt and fender bolt bosses were already chased. It was all straightforward prep for a mechanic. There was no BB cable guide included, but I had those on-hand. I installed a Shimano CX70 front der and a White Industries DOS ENO 16/19 freewheel. I installed a Suntour Sprint down tube shifter on the shifter boss, with my own custom machined stop that causes it to sit proud of the down tube in the small-ring position. With the faceplater stem pretty much slammed, and the saddle at my height, I'm happy at the silhouette of the bike. I'm eager to get a chain on it and start riding it. Have a look: https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/albums/72177720319657823Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CA

Re: [RBW] Ro-Deux-No build notes New Bike Day

2024-08-20 Thread Richard Rose

Bill, 5’10”? That surprised me. I’ve not ordered a Roaduno but thought if I did it would be a 54. I am 5’10” also but use a 72-73 saddle height. Perhaps your legs are longer than mine or maybe it’s my preferred mid-foot flat pedal position which tends to lower the saddle. Bike looks great!Sent from my iPhoneOn Aug 20, 2024, at 12:57 AM, Bill Lindsay wrote:I'm 5'10". My Saddle Height is 75.5cm, so I think that makes me a 86cm PBH guy. BL in ECOn Monday, August 19, 2024 at 9:55:21 PM UTC-7 P W wrote:Wow Bill - first happy customer this side of the ocean?Guess that means mine will be shipping shortly, too…Exciting times!The little tweaks you’ve made so far to the build are all excellent. And I agree, the stance/silhouette looks ideal as it is.Can I ask how tall you are?Curious how exactly the same size (58) is gonna feel and fit when I get my hands on it!P. W.~(917) 514-2207~On Aug 19, 2024, at 9:41 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:I went to Riv HQ and picked up my 58cm Complete RoadUno. I picked up the bike in the box to do the build myself. I also splurged on an extra 250mm length Nitto S83 seat post. I did pretty much the whole build this afternoon, except I neglected to secure a chain. I thought I had plenty of chain-stock on hand, but it turns out I only had 10sp chains, which I'm not prepared to deploy just yet. The setup was straightforward, but I did completely disassemble everything that was pre-assembled in the complete. The frame set is not light: 5.83 pounds for the 58cm frame with headset cups, 2.18 pounds for the fork with enormously long steerer. The new svelte Silver 3 cranks are roughly 25% lighter than the Silver 1 cranks. Thread chasing was necessary on the RD hanger, but it was aligned perfectly. Most but not all of the H2O bolt and fender bolt bosses were already chased. It was all straightforward prep for a mechanic. There was no BB cable guide included, but I had those on-hand. I installed a Shimano CX70 front der and a White Industries DOS ENO 16/19 freewheel. I installed a Suntour Sprint down tube shifter on the shifter boss, with my own custom machined stop that causes it to sit proud of the down tube in the small-ring position. With the faceplater stem pretty much slammed, and the saddle at my height, I'm happy at the silhouette of the bike. I'm eager to get a chain on it and start riding it. Have a look: https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/albums/72177720319657823Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CA

Re: [RBW] Craigslist, etc 2024

2024-08-19 Thread Richard Rose

Wow that Gus seems downright cheap. Mostly high end parts. Someone should be very happy.Sent from my iPhoneOn Aug 18, 2024, at 10:24 PM, Hoch in ut wrote:Gus 57cm on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/335535412233?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=qA7Aw4ymQhC&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=rzmd47rSQ3O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPYOn Sunday, August 18, 2024 at 8:24:33 AM UTC-6 Josh C wrote:52 Sam for $1250 in the Bay Area https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/d/albany-rivendell-sam-hillborne-52cm/7775464891.htmlOn Tuesday, August 13, 2024 at 11:59:05 AM UTC-4 Jeffery S wrote:Rivendell Atlantis - $2,400 (Denver)https://denver.craigslist.org/bik/d/denver-rivendell-atlantis/7773388159.htmlNot mine and no relationOn Tuesday, August 6, 2024 at 7:02:27 AM UTC-6 Josh C wrote:53cm Susie that looks nicely appointed. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/bik/d/belmont-rivendell-susie-53/7772593945.htmlOn Monday, August 5, 2024 at 8:48:25 PM UTC-4 Chris Halasz wrote:63cm Soma San Marcos bicycle - $600 (Carmel)https://monterey.craigslist.org/bik/d/carmel-by-the-sea-soma-san-marcos/7772195224.htmlOn Sunday, July 28, 2024 at 10:36:55 PM UTC-7 Corwin Zechar wrote:Hi Philip -I have a Roadeo waiting for paint. The claimed tire clearance for Roadeos is 33mm (basically a Jack Brown tire) as I recall. I'm reasonably sure I could put a 35mm tire on a relatively wide rim and make it work without fenders.Regards,CorwinOn Sunday, July 7, 2024 at 2:04:48 PM UTC-7 philip@gmail.com wrote:I so badly wish this was a 58/59. Hell, even 60!This is exactly what I want to be riding this summer!What size tire will it clear? 28s?P. W.~(917) 514-2207~On Jul 7, 2024, at 1:19 PM, donavanm wrote:On Friday, July 5, 2024 at 5:05:32 PM UTC-7 Josh C wrote:63cm Roadeo. Don't see these every day. Good price IMO. https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/d/seattle-rivendell-roadeo-63cm-black-and/7763433686.html This is mine. I can provide more photos if anyones interested, or a test ride in seattle. As mentioned i just dont ride it these days.I also have a 61cm simpleone that Ill be listing once I take some pics tomorrow. Im keeping my quickbeam, and Ill be down to 7 other bikes…

Re: [RBW] Handlebar suggestion for long legs?

2024-08-19 Thread Richard Rose

To clarify; 580 wide Bosco with 135 FacePlater on my Clem. 785 wide Hope Cyclery Albacore (50degree sweep) with 35mm Paul Boxcar stem on Gus. Believe it or not these combinations put me in very similar positions with the biggest difference being the width. Fore/aft they are really close with both being very upright & relaxed. The Gus is just better for trail use. Note; both bikes never give me issues with knee contact or otherwise being too close. I hope this helps.Sent from my iPhoneOn Aug 19, 2024, at 6:02 PM, Richard Rose wrote:Wow. I own two Riv’s and have two similar but quite different handlebar / stem combinations. Still, I can think of no reliable advice to help steer (pun not intended) you in the right direction. I had to experiment a little bit to get my Clem setup just perfect. That at least gave me a blueprint for my Gus when it arrived. But, starting from scratch? I think I would rely heavily on the folks at Riv.Sent from my iPhoneOn Aug 19, 2024, at 5:43 PM, David Ross wrote:The Riv bars are really narrow in my opinion. Depending on your shoulders you can go a lot wider. Hope Cyclery sells some 787mm sweeps and you can have anything you want made at Doom. I have some Albatross inspired bars from them that are 707mm wide. On Mon, Aug 19, 2024 at 5:03 PM Dan <dandurha...@gmail.com> wrote:So I have ordered my Appaloosa and am trying to get my parts in order. I plan on making the purchase of the "you pick the fun stuff, we pick the rest" to go along with the Appaloosa. My biggest conundrum is the handlebars. I have 91.5 PBH and have concerns with kneeing my hands or the handlebars. Originally I was thinking the Billie bar because I like the option of gripping next to the stem but looking at whatbars.com, comparing to other riv handlebars, they seem to sweep back a bit more than others. I have never used swept back bars before and have no option to view these bars in person so here I am yet again looking for some insights! Basically, I'd like a bar that comes back to a comfortable position without me having to lean too far forward and allows me to get a tight grip when I want to. Just dont want to get a setup that causes me to get too close to the handlebars is all. I plan on going with thumb shifters if that helps to know.

Re: [RBW] Handlebar suggestion for long legs?

2024-08-19 Thread Richard Rose

Wow. I own two Riv’s and have two similar but quite different handlebar / stem combinations. Still, I can think of no reliable advice to help steer (pun not intended) you in the right direction. I had to experiment a little bit to get my Clem setup just perfect. That at least gave me a blueprint for my Gus when it arrived. But, starting from scratch? I think I would rely heavily on the folks at Riv.Sent from my iPhoneOn Aug 19, 2024, at 5:43 PM, David Ross wrote:The Riv bars are really narrow in my opinion. Depending on your shoulders you can go a lot wider. Hope Cyclery sells some 787mm sweeps and you can have anything you want made at Doom. I have some Albatross inspired bars from them that are 707mm wide. On Mon, Aug 19, 2024 at 5:03 PM Dan wrote:So I have ordered my Appaloosa and am trying to get my parts in order. I plan on making the purchase of the "you pick the fun stuff, we pick the rest" to go along with the Appaloosa. My biggest conundrum is the handlebars. I have 91.5 PBH and have concerns with kneeing my hands or the handlebars. Originally I was thinking the Billie bar because I like the option of gripping next to the stem but looking at whatbars.com, comparing to other riv handlebars, they seem to sweep back a bit more than others. I have never used swept back bars before and have no option to view these bars in person so here I am yet again looking for some insights! Basically, I'd like a bar that comes back to a comfortable position without me having to lean too far forward and allows me to get a tight grip when I want to. Just dont want to get a setup that causes me to get too close to the handlebars is all. I plan on going with thumb shifters if that helps to know.

Re: [RBW] Re: Clem Smith Jr vs Polyvalent Lowkicker?

2024-08-19 Thread Richard Rose

I’ve used a Wald basket mounted to a Tumbleweed “T” rack on the front of my Clem L & the rear of my Gus. In both cases I also utilized the triple mounts of the rack to support King “many things” cages to hold my fork mounted bags. The front wheel flop on the Clem was far more noticeable than any tail wag on the Gus. Having said that, neither bothered me much. Both bikes handled the load well.Sent from my iPhoneOn Aug 19, 2024, at 11:17 AM, Chris Halasz wrote:I assume someone pregnant prefers a more upright position, irrespective of its declared benefits to the health of one's pelvic floor (important to me, anyway), and overall spinal and wrist comfort (subjective, I suppose). It makes sense then to extend the chainstay, and so proportionately the overall triangle from the center of mass of the more upright cyclist and the bicycle wheelbase. Likewise, it makes more sense for the cyclist who rides low and in the drops to ride a shorter chainstay and so a shorter wheelbase than the Clem. At barely 6'1", with an 89cm PBH, my 64cm Clem L has a more accessible 'step-through' than my 60cm Platypus, and, to me, the Platypus appears to have much more step-through access than the Lowkicker. I don't see how one could really step through the Lowkicker without considerably tilting the bike. - Chris On Monday, August 19, 2024 at 7:13:54 AM UTC-7 DJC wrote:Paul,I own both the Polyvalent and the Clem Smith H; I've also built up for others the Polyvalent low-kicker and the Clem L. The Clem has a laid back, swoopy feel; it's equally comfortable on the road or in the dirt, whereas the Polyvalent feels snappier and more nimble. That's doesn't mean the Clem is sluggish, but rather it's not as "fast" handling as the Poly. I'm selling my Polyvalent because it's too close to other bikes in my stable; the Clem is a forever bike for me. Another consideration will be the fit; the Clem has a very generous headtube / stack compared to the Polyvalent, plus with the Clem you get the advantage of the quill stem for setting the front-end heightBoth are lovely bikes, but very different in design and riding characteristics. Remember that the Polyvalent is a "low-trail" bike, but to the higher end of the range, which makes it more neutral in handling compared to low low-trail bikes. It handles a front load better than a rear load, but still manages a light rear load well. The Clem is a rear loader primarily, and capable of a light front load. I've chosen the Clem because it's become a groovy analog trail bike that compliments my Gus Boots nicely. However, I did have the Clem build as a city commuter for a couple of years and it was very capable.Best, DaveOn Sunday, August 18, 2024 at 9:25:38 PM UTC-4 paulje...@gmail.com wrote:Hello-I'm considering getting a step-thru bike for my partner. She's pregnant and her normal touring bike is feeling less and less comfortable. We're looking at the size 64 Clem Smith Jr or the XL Velo Orange Polyvalent Lowkicker. She's 6'3 with 97 PBH.I was wondering if anyone here might be able to say how the ride quality might be different on the two bikes? Or if there are reasons I should consider one over the other?We mostly ride on pavement on country roads and the occasional dirt/gravel road. The Clem looks longer which I imagine would make it more stable? I imagine this might be nice if we eventually put a baby seat on the back. The Polyvalent Lowkicker uses 650b wheels and I'm a little concerned with toe overlap as it looks like a shorter wheelbase. I know the Polyvalent uses more modern standards like thru axles and disc brakes for better or worse. I like that the Polyvalent is a bit more affordable but the Rivendell seems like more of a classic. I'd be grateful for any suggestions.Thanks!Paul

Re: [RBW] RoadUno build anticipation

2024-08-15 Thread Richard Rose

Fantastic! What is the handlebar?Sent from my iPhoneOn Aug 15, 2024, at 11:11 AM, Laing Conley wrote:I am trying to figure out whether to go with the purple MKS XC-III Bear Trap pedals or the purple Deity TMAC pedals on the purple RoadUno frame: Brooks grips and aged B-68 with yellow lacing. I do have some purple

OURY grips but that would be too much purple.Laing ConleyDelray Beach FLOn Wed, Aug 14, 2024 at 7:58 PM Bill Lindsay wrote:I'm eagerly waiting for the container to get to Walnut Creek. Today my grips came in. I'm going with a Silver RoadUno, which features purples in the graphics. I bought purple Vans Lock on grips, whose clamps match a very cool oil slick purple Affinity 15mm mini ratchet wrench that I already had. In front of the brake levers I'll run eggplant Newbaums, which I'll wrap over a layer of ESI silicon tape. A pic proves it: https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/53923848393/in/album-72177720319534027I've started an album to capture the build. Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CA

[RBW] tire experiment

2024-08-11 Thread Richard Rose

This might sound outlandish but I have put over 5,000 miles on a set of
Simworks Homage tires. They are still good. I think (but do not know) that
is unusually high mileage for a set of bicycle tires. Bike is a Clem L and
tires are 27.5 x 55 mounted with tubes on Cliffhanger rims. I've been
planning to get new ones and have been contemplating 2 things; going to the
smaller 43mm tires and second, trying the mint green ones. I won't bore you
with the color question.:) I am thinking of trying the smaller tires as the
Clem has evolved into being used primarily on pavement and smoothish
gravel. As this is a Clem we are talking about weight has never been a
concern of mine but this will save me over 13 ounces of rotational weight.
I fear it will not be worth the weight savings as the 55's are just so
plush. But, I found a relatively inexpensive set so going to give it a try.
I've recommended these tires to others but to my knowledge only Kim H. has
given them a try. Kim reports he likes the 43's but might give the 55's a
go. What I am hoping for is a more snappy feeling bike that does not
sacrifice comfort. We shall see.

Re: [RBW] Re: broken shift cable with silver shifter

2024-07-21 Thread Richard Rose

Interesting input. A little more detail. I have Silver 2 shifters & Nissen cables on my Clem. Shifters are mounted “Riv” style, reversed & inboard of brake levers. Clem has a Deore R.D. & 9 speed cassette. Over 8,000 miles & no issues.Broken cable is from my Gus. I decided to try rapid rise on the Gus & am using a NIB Nexave RD. It has no barrel adjuster so I got the Silver 2 shifters from Blue Lug which have the barrel adjusters. These are also mounted in reverse - same as the Clem. Gus only has 1,500 miles.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jul 21, 2024, at 1:06 AM, Olivier Chételat  wrote:Hi Richard,This happened to me a few times on a Silver 2. Some of the very first ones Riv sold had a misalignment of the shifter and the cable stop mount hole. Maybe 1 or 2mm off caused the cable to be slightly bent and the rubbing ended up chewing through the whole thing. Just like your picture. Check if the cable goes from the shifter to the hole in the mount in a straight way. If not aligned, i'd recomend calling Riv. The red arrows on the picture below indicate the part that I believe caused the issue. Hope this helps.Oli in SFOn Saturday, July 20, 2024 at 7:50:55 PM UTC-7 Max S wrote:Just out of curiosity, did you have it set up as a bar-end or a thumb-shifter or a downtube shifter? Reason I ask:  A few months ago I set up a bike with the Silver v.2 shifter on a Paul Thumbie mount and noticed that the cable would rub on the side of the cable hole as it entered the pod. I also noticed the same thing when setting it up as a bar-end shifter on a bar-end pod from Riv. I figured that after a few hundred miles either the hole would get sawed out, or the cable would snap, or both... It's possible that the bar-end and thumbie pods had been originally spec'ed for a smaller diameter shifter body, but either way, I decided not to risk it, relegating it for future downtube duty, and replaced it with a different bar-mounted shifter on that bike. - Max "design flaw?" in A2On Saturday, July 20, 2024 at 9:47:36 PM UTC-4 Richard Rose wrote:I've never seen this before so thought I'd share. Weird?https://photos.app.goo.gl/5NLkjz7cK3yCvgck8



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[RBW] broken shift cable with silver shifter

2024-07-20 Thread Richard Rose

I've never seen this before so thought I'd share. Weird?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/5NLkjz7cK3yCvgck8

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Re: [RBW] Which one to keep

2024-07-18 Thread Richard Rose

Interesting proposition Ray presents. In my case the choice would be between my Clem & Gus which would definitely be a Sophie’s Choice type thing. Chris puts into words better than I ever could my exact feelings toward my Clem. It is the bike I ride the most by a very wide margin. This alone should make the choice easy. But, my favorite thing to do on a bike is ride sinewy singletrack. I do not get to do so nearly as often as I would like. But when I do it’s positively blissful on Gus. Combined with the relative rareness of the fillet brazed Gus making a choice of which one to keep would hurt too much.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jul 16, 2024, at 11:51 PM, Ray Varella wrote:I’m curious how you guys would choose between two bikes you already have. I have a Clem and a Platypus, they are both very comfortable and extremely nice riding bikes. There’s so much overlap between them I don’t need both. I’m leaning towards the Clem because it will fit my niece better than the Platypus will. The Platypus is a really beautiful bike. I know some members have duplicates or multiples of bikes they like. How would you guys choose between the two?Thank you Ray

Re: [RBW] Rivendell Prototype mountain bike for sale

2024-07-07 Thread Richard Rose

Josh, absolutely correct! Except I don’t have to wait - folks on the trail look at me like I am nuts & call my bike a “cruiser”. So it goes.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jul 6, 2024, at 7:06 PM, Josh C wrote:Richard, Most folks don't think of the Gus when they imagine a mountain bike, either. I envision a thread in 20 years in which someone wonders what Riv was thinking considering the Gus a "mountain" (hilly) bike...On Saturday, July 6, 2024 at 2:30:22 PM UTC-4 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:Having just finished a fairly raucous singletrack session on my Gus I like how Riv’s concept of “mountain bike” has evolved.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jul 6, 2024, at 11:57 AM, Ted Durant wrote:On Jul 6, 2024, at 10:54 AM, Eric Daume wrote:26” wheels will have a longer head tube, plus I think the Riv mtb frame did have a bit of top tube slope. The top tube slope on mine (18” C-T) was 7 degrees.Ted DurantMilwaukee WI 53217

Re: [RBW] Rivendell Prototype mountain bike for sale

2024-07-06 Thread Richard Rose

Having just finished a fairly raucous singletrack session on my Gus I like how Riv’s concept of “mountain bike” has evolved.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jul 6, 2024, at 11:57 AM, Ted Durant  wrote:On Jul 6, 2024, at 10:54 AM, Eric Daume  wrote:26” wheels will have a longer head tube, plus I think the Riv mtb frame did have a bit of top tube slope. The top tube slope on mine (18” C-T) was 7 degrees.Ted DurantMilwaukee WI 53217



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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Prototype mountain bike for sale

2024-07-04 Thread Richard Rose

A beautiful bicycle indeed. I have but one question & please consider this coming from a Gus owner; what about this made Riv think “mountain bike”?Sent from my iPhoneOn Jul 4, 2024, at 7:24 PM, Cyclofiend Jim wrote:My, my, my that is a piece of RBW history right there...My guess would be a 1996 build. I think the "K" meant a "Kurt" build. (Curt Goodrich) But I'm not sure. (J or JS would have been for Joe Starck)RR#3 talks about the Mountain model (Mountain/Expedition was another name for it) - there were _very_ few ever built.https://notfine.com/rivreader/RR03.pdf(page 37)On Thursday, July 4, 2024 at 4:10:17 PM UTC-7 David Blessing wrote:I am offering for sale, my Rivendell, prototype mountain bike. I do not know a lot of history about this frame. I believe that it was one of only a few prototypes of a mountain bike format made by Rivendell. I have owned this bike for many years and have never run into anyone else who owns one. I am not sure when it was made, although some posts I have looked at suggest that Rivendell was planning a mountain bike somewhere around 1995. I purchased this frame from a BOB, built it up and rode it once before hanging it in my office shop along side of my Atlantis and my Rambouillet, both of which are also for sale. I am approaching 71 years of age, and it is time to clean out the stable.

This bicycle has a frame that is 49cm from center to the top of the seat tube or 19”. I’m not up on mountain bike sizing, but I am 5’9” and I think it fits me fine. This Bicycle has White Industries hubs attached to 26 inch Velocity Aeroheat AT rims, a Shimano Deore Mega 9 front derailleur, and Shimano Deore rear derailleur, cool unidentified handlebar, and Nitto Technomic stem. It also has Dura Ace brake levers and Suntour XC Pro cantilever brakes. The rack pictured goes with the bike. Stamped into the bottom bracket is the serial number K96087. The saddle and pedals are not included and I will probably keep the Baggins bag. I am not sure if the seat post is a Nitto or not. The crank is a Suntour XC Pro triple, 42x32x20. Shifters are Silver Bar ends. This bicycle is beautiful, but not new. It has some nicks and scrapes especially around the chain area. Some can be touched up, a couple would only be repairable with a repaint. I have included a picture of the worst. I call them beausage.

This bicycle will be packed by my wonderful friends at the Bike Shed in Kearney, Nebraska and shipped via bike flights. I will be happy to subtract $200 from my price if you would like to road trip it to my home or near my home near Elwood, Nebraska to pick it up.

Price: $1850.00 shipped to you in the CONUS.

Should you be interested, I will be happy to supply you with further pictures of your choosing.

Re: [RBW] Re: Roaduno - Are for you buying one?

2024-06-29 Thread Richard Rose

Oh this is going to be good!Sent from my iPhoneOn Jun 28, 2024, at 11:01 AM, P W wrote:Oh, it definitely is!And was one of my very first (and easy) decisions when I began planning and collecting for my build.Admittedly, they work best when direct mounted, but I’ve never felt they lacked for braking power running as center mounts instead. Especially not on road.They’re also one of the suggestions Riv makes for brake options on the Uno frame set page.I do understand how they might be a financial concern for people tho - they’re not exactly cheap!Although they do tend to come up on the secondhand market often.P. W.~(917) 514-2207~On Jun 28, 2024, at 6:56 AM, dane...@gmail.com wrote:Hmm... I live somewhere hilly (Vermont) and ride my roadini on everything granted the pads on the 559s on the roadini are high in the slot nd i swapped out for Kool Stops. Not arguing that they are the most powerful brakes ever but they seem to do the job.-DanOn Friday, June 28, 2024 at 9:51:24 AM UTC-4 DavidP wrote:A Paul Racer (or other centerpull) could be used on a RoadUno (or Homer, Roadini, etc.), you'd just need to add cable hangers at the headset/stem and seat binder bolt.My primary road bike is a Malocchio with 559s and fenders. I also have a Pescadero with maxed out GC610 centerpulls. I've had these bikes setup with the same fenders, wheels, and tires (moved most of the parts from the Pescadero to the Malocchio frame when I got it). Breaking performance between the two setups seems about the same to me and has been perfectly adequate even when caught in a downpour on the 559s, but (1) I'm fairly light and live in an area with rolling hills and (2) the 559s are not maxed out on the front of the Malocchio.Riv says the RoadUno takes 46mm without a fender and 43mm with - maybe they haven't actually set one up with 43s and 559s but that doesn't sound problematic to me and my experience with 559s and fenders hasn't been problematic.I like the RoadUno and am looking forward to seeing the builds, but am not planning on getting one. My RoadUno proxy is a Handsome Devil with 38s, fenders, and cantilevers, built up this spring and soon to be converted to 3x1. It also brakes fine.-DaveOn Friday, June 28, 2024 at 9:37:02 AM UTC-4 Richard Rose wrote:Is the Paul Racer not an option on these bikes?Sent from my iPhoneOn Jun 28, 2024, at 8:57 AM, Mathias Steiner <mathiass...@gmail.com> wrote:I'm going to write it down to see if I'm the only one who thinks the following:(i) I'm glad the Tektro 559s are available. Even with the pads all the way down, they allow "OK" braking even with the factory pads. I'm not sure I'd be happy if I lived where it's hilly.(ii) Fenders are problematic because the 559s provide obstacles much lower than the brake bridge/fork crown. Notably, there's a spring sticking down; the silver Roaduno pictures show that clearly.(iii) Braking is better with Cantis, much better with V brakes. Overall I prefer cantilever, for the versatility. On Friday, June 28, 2024 at 7:14:51 AM UTC-4 saxt...@gmail.com wrote:For sure, I was in the hunq camp, but I get why a slightly lighter weight option makes sense. I would have been happy with a SS Hillborne as canti’s would have allowed for just a little bit more tire/fender clearance, I was still tempted when I saw that 650b was the wheel size for my size frame as that’d be different than what I have, but the LR brakes kill it for me. On Thursday, June 27, 2024 at 9:51:07 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:It's clear lots of people wanted a single speed Appaloosa or a single speed Hunqapillar. It's natural for those people to be sad that Rivendell offered a single speed A. Homer Hilsen instead. Those who wanted a single speed A Homer Hilsen are presumably pleased. Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CAOn Thursday, June 27, 2024 at 6:13:07 PM UTC-7 brendonoid wrote:Another Riv that excited me until the inexplicable change to sidepulls.I think I know why Riv has done this twice now but damn it is annoying.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Roaduno - Are for you buying one?

2024-06-28 Thread Richard Rose

Is the Paul Racer not an option on these bikes?Sent from my iPhoneOn Jun 28, 2024, at 8:57 AM, Mathias Steiner wrote:I'm going to write it down to see if I'm the only one who thinks the following:(i) I'm glad the Tektro 559s are available. Even with the pads all the way down, they allow "OK" braking even with the factory pads. I'm not sure I'd be happy if I lived where it's hilly.(ii) Fenders are problematic because the 559s provide obstacles much lower than the brake bridge/fork crown. Notably, there's a spring sticking down; the silver Roaduno pictures show that clearly.(iii) Braking is better with Cantis, much better with V brakes. Overall I prefer cantilever, for the versatility. On Friday, June 28, 2024 at 7:14:51 AM UTC-4 saxt...@gmail.com wrote:For sure, I was in the hunq camp, but I get why a slightly lighter weight option makes sense. I would have been happy with a SS Hillborne as canti’s would have allowed for just a little bit more tire/fender clearance, I was still tempted when I saw that 650b was the wheel size for my size frame as that’d be different than what I have, but the LR brakes kill it for me. On Thursday, June 27, 2024 at 9:51:07 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:It's clear lots of people wanted a single speed Appaloosa or a single speed Hunqapillar. It's natural for those people to be sad that Rivendell offered a single speed A. Homer Hilsen instead. Those who wanted a single speed A Homer Hilsen are presumably pleased. Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CAOn Thursday, June 27, 2024 at 6:13:07 PM UTC-7 brendonoid wrote:Another Riv that excited me until the inexplicable change to sidepulls.I think I know why Riv has done this twice now but damn it is annoying.

Re: [RBW] Re: Roaduno - Are you buying one?

2024-06-27 Thread Richard Rose

Curious about the numbers too. I know vendors are all different but remember reading about Black Mountain difficulties due to minimum orders - something like 30 of each size / color? It put him - Black Mountain - in jeopardy. They made it work with single frame colors & fewer sizes.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jun 27, 2024, at 5:02 PM, Edwin W wrote:I wonder how many they ordered of each iteration - with three colors and 5 sizes of frames and five sizes of completes, that could be up to something like 150 bikes (frames and completes) if they got 5 of each iteration listed, or 300 if they got 10. Or something in between if they mixed and matched.I hope they sell a lot and fill up their coffers!61.5 purple frame,EdwinOn Thursday, June 27, 2024 at 3:25:35 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:They appear to be moving, but it's not a total frenzy like some other releases in the past. Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CAOn Thursday, June 27, 2024 at 12:13:50 PM UTC-7 lconley wrote:One 54.5 in Ana Purple complete ordered. I decided that I like the high flange hubs on the wheelset and the new crankset so I ordered a complete instead of a frameset.LaingDelray Beach FLOn Sunday, June 23, 2024 at 4:59:43 PM UTC-4 Doug H. wrote:The Roaduno sale begins Thursday June 27th noon Pacific time. Who is planning to buy one? Will you buy a frameset to build up or a complete? Color preference?I'm curious as to the demand for this bike. It's not JUST a single speed which I think is cool. And, cool is good in my lingo. What do you all think of the stock components?Let's talk Roaduno!!Doug

Re: [RBW] Re: Roaduno - Are you buying one?

2024-06-27 Thread Richard Rose

I have thought I’d like all three color options - and I do. But dang that silver kills.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jun 26, 2024, at 6:54 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:The down tube graphics are exceptional. I agree the purple "1" on the silver pops. I'm hooked on the Saint Jump stickers. I bought two different R05C0 8U883 bikes because of the rocket headbadge. The Rosco Bubbe Road that I owned is available from CMR right now, and I endorse it. I half want to convince one of you frame set buyers to get a complete instead so I can grab the parts kit. I want a set of the svelte new Silver cranks (in 173) and the Saint Jump wheels are great too. If you are in the East Bay hand-off range and want to do something, let me know. Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CAOn Wednesday, June 26, 2024 at 3:19:26 PM UTC-7 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:Question to the group; anyone ever bought a bike solely for the downtube graphics? Riv nailed it with this Roaduno at least in my book. I do particularly like it on the silver but all three look good to me.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jun 26, 2024, at 5:50 PM, Marty Gierke, Stewartstown PA wrote:And I agree about the missing canti option. With the upcoming V-brake I would have bit the bullet on a silver one myself. Marty

Re: [RBW] Re: Roaduno - Are you buying one?

2024-06-26 Thread Richard Rose

Question to the group; anyone ever bought a bike solely for the downtube graphics? Riv nailed it with this Roaduno at least in my book. I do particularly like it on the silver but all three look good to me.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jun 26, 2024, at 5:50 PM, Marty Gierke, Stewartstown PA  wrote:And I agree about the missing canti option. With the upcoming V-brake I would have bit the bullet on a silver one myself. Marty



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Re: [RBW] Re: Roaduno - Are you buying one?

2024-06-26 Thread Richard Rose

No pics of the Silver?Sent from my iPhoneOn Jun 26, 2024, at 10:03 AM, Dave S  wrote:https://www.rivbike.com/products/frame-roadunoPage/Photos are up.On Sunday, June 23, 2024 at 4:59:43 PM UTC-4 Doug H. wrote:The Roaduno sale begins Thursday June 27th noon Pacific time. Who is planning to buy one? Will you buy a frameset to build up or a complete? Color preference?I'm curious as to the demand for this bike. It's not JUST a single speed which I think is cool. And, cool is good in my lingo. What do you all think of the stock components?Let's talk Roaduno!!Doug



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Re: [RBW] Re: Roaduno - Are you buying one?

2024-06-24 Thread Richard Rose

Bill Lindsay, are you basing the geo numbers on the Homer? Interesting that Riv are planning a pre sale in three days without any published photos of actual production frames/bikes/colors or geometry.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jun 24, 2024, at 10:34 AM, Bill Lindsay wrote:I took the 3x1 inspiration to do a 3x1 Rivendell build on a Romulus. I rode that bike up Mount Diablo this month and it's becoming a favorite bike in my large stable. Here's a photo of the bike at the summit:https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/53778626719/in/album-72177720313832831/I feel like I'm exactly in between a 54.5 and a 58. The 58 has the Reach, but very high Stack. The 54.5 has a more reasonable Stack, but it's short on the Reach. The build concept would influence the size. I could run a 54.5 with drops and a long stem. I could run a 58 with a low stem and low rise flat bars. I confess that Will tempted me with the statement "at least one maniac will put a Regina 5-speed freewheel on theirs. I am a big fan of multi-gear 120mm OLD builds, so now I feel like I've been challenged. Ha ha. I'll think on it some more when the product page comes out. One of the visual concepts I've got bouncing in my head would be the silver color with absolutely every single thing on the build SILVER. Light grey grips, tires, saddle. 100% silver components. Not a single speck of black. I think grey rubber tires would have tan sidewalls, so that would be the only other color. That could look really good. Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CAOn Sunday, June 23, 2024 at 1:59:43 PM UTC-7 Doug H. wrote:The Roaduno sale begins Thursday June 27th noon Pacific time. Who is planning to buy one? Will you buy a frameset to build up or a complete? Color preference?I'm curious as to the demand for this bike. It's not JUST a single speed which I think is cool. And, cool is good in my lingo. What do you all think of the stock components?Let's talk Roaduno!!Doug

Re: [RBW] FS: 54 Roadini in Sergio Green

2024-06-18 Thread Richard Rose

Hi Doug. This bike color looks like Mermaid to me?Sent from my iPhoneOn Jun 17, 2024, at 11:13 AM, Doug H. wrote:This was a recent acquisition but I've decided to move on from it. Here are the details:Rivendell Roadini 54 Sergio Green

·
Velocity Dyad 36 spoke wheelset with Shimano 105
hubs 700c

·
Velo Orange Crankset 175mm 48/34 chain rings

·
Shimano XT 9 speed cassette

·
Microshift front and rear derailleurs

·
Shimano Dura Ace bar-end shifters

·
Albatross HT handlebars

·
Nitto 12cm stem

·
Tektro long reach brake calipers with Shimano XT
brake levers

·
Kalloy seat post

·
Berthoud leather saddle

·
VO platform pedals

·
VO Moderniste bottle cage

·
SOMA Shikoro tires 38mm

Frameset is in excellent condition with no dings or dents.
I’m willing to ship and share cost within reason. For size reference, I am
5’10” with an 83 PBH and this size 54 fits great. For drop bars I would use a
5cm stem. The photos show it with a dynamo setup which I plan to keep but if you'd like it then we can talk price. $2,000 plus shipping (will share shipping cost) I have nothing negative to say about the Roadini and its superb ride quality. Circumstances can change quickly and a sale is needed.RoadiniDoug

Re: [RBW] The 3x1 road bike. Anticipating some of your RoadUNO builds

2024-06-15 Thread Richard Rose

Highly anticipated indeed. Sadly(?) I am out & not because of my disappointment that they missed the target price of $2,100.00. One could scoff a bit over the $2,400.00 for the complete + $250.00 for shipping. But I will remain a fascinated observer for now based solely on need - or lack thereof. I have finally been able to ride my Gus on singletrack some more & realize all of my road riding exists primarily to keep me in shape for mountain biking. My Clem fills that need in spades. Cannot wait to see the Roaduno’s though & will likely get sweaty palms every time a used one comes up for sale.:) If I was intent on getting one I would suffer paralysis from analysis big time - Mustard or Silver?Sent from my iPhoneOn Jun 15, 2024, at 9:12 AM, tio ryan wrote:Highly anticipated Roaduno update in this weeks newsletter! [06/14/2024 - Sams are here, and Roadunos are next]On Thursday, June 13, 2024 at 3:41:14 PM UTC-4 tio ryan wrote:Thanks Michael! I must have missed that when I got unsubscribed from the email list. Assuming it's the mustard and silver from those Blue Lug images, this will be a tough choice. Tio "mustard-curious" Ryan On Thursday, June 13, 2024 at 12:42:01 PM UTC-4 Michael Connors wrote:From the 4/26 email newsletter-The Roaduno colors that will be available are: Silver, Purple, and Mustard.
Silver will sell out first, but blessed be the flexible who get
whichever is available in their size; they all look good, and keep in
mind that our photos never do the colors justice. Mustard is the most
toned down but it has a little sparkle in the sun and looks fantastic
once it's dusty and well used. It would be nuts to expect everybody to
like Purple, but if you could see it in person I'm sure we could
convince everybody who's on or even near the fence to get one.

Re: [RBW] Re: First ride on Clem

2024-06-14 Thread Richard Rose

Hi Joe. On a very recent Sub24 outing it was amazing how many comments I got (on my Clem) regarding how comfortable & relaxed I appeared to be. One rider who I had done similar rides with before exclaimed that my riding always looked so effortless. And that’s exactly how it feels, even during hard efforts. The bike feels limitless.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jun 14, 2024, at 1:29 AM, Joe Bernard wrote:It's a perfect bicycle. I have a Riv Custom and I can't say my Clem is better, but it's such a wonderful bike that sometimes I prefer riding it. It does a relaxed "just look around and enjoy" thing that's hard to explain if you haven't ridden one. Joe Bernard On Thursday, June 13, 2024 at 6:22:33 PM UTC-7 fmri...@gmail.com wrote:Incredible. Thing glides! So stoked

Franco Rinaldi
c: 646.403.0661

-Pardon any typos, Siri typed this message-

Re: [RBW] New Bike Day - Lugged Susie

2024-06-12 Thread Richard Rose

What Valerie says precisely. Susie / Gus bikes are mountain bikes. “Hillibike” is clever & cute but does not do them justice, in my humble opinion. It’s confusing because you can ride them for other duties but.., if you have tires that optimize a Gus/Susie for MTB use, it’s not fantastic on pavement. That said I do not hesitate to ride my Gus to the trail or use it for gravel or bikepacking trips. But if dirt is not a big part of my ride I take my Clem. BTW, a riding friend just bought a used Sam - it was Rich Lesnik’s bike from Riv! It’s a beauty & a 26” bike. We did a Sub24 mostly gravel bikepacking trip. He on his Sam, I on my Clem. He was loving the Sam. But he does not do MTB.Sent from my iPhoneOn Jun 12, 2024, at 12:30 AM, Valerie Yates wrote:I have both and consider them very different bikes. With the right tires, you can definitely ride your Appa on dirt and trails. It is my choice for loaded tours and scenic rides. The Susie has a very different feel to me. The tires can go much bigger and somehow its geometry makes me feel much more confident taking it on trails with more variable terrain. Downhills are a blast. But it is not my ride around town choice. To me, the Susie is the ultimate rigid mountain bike. It is big and bouncy and fun. If I could only have one, I consider the Appa more versatile. But it is mighty nice to have both. If you are on the fence, start taking your Appa on trails for now and see if you want a more dirt-oriented bike. Best,Val in Boulder CO On Tuesday, June 11, 2024 at 8:35:30 PM UTC-6 Matthew Williams wrote:Can someone who’s ridden both bikes tell me: what’s the difference, between the Susie and the Appaloosa? I’d like to start riding more dirt and trails—but no crazy fast stuff or jumps—and I’m wondering if I should get a Susie or just stick with my Appaloosa.

Does the Susie have better clearance, geometry, and/or strength to make it a better choice for dirt and trails? Or is the Susie similar enough to the Appaloosa that I won’t notice the difference?

Re: [RBW] Re: My new Wired Magazine article about fat, supple tires

2024-06-04 Thread Richard Rose

The RH pressure calculator is enlightening. On my Clem I run Simworks Homage 55mm tires with tubes. I normally have them at 25-30psi which is pretty much in line with RH as is the 30-35psi range when loaded for a Sub24. I’ve been toying with giving the 43 Homage a try as I am going off road less with the Clem since getting my Gus. But RH suggests 35-45psi for those. That sounds like a noticeably rougher ride to me?Sent from my iPhoneOn Jun 4, 2024, at 1:49 AM, Joe Ray  wrote:Thanks Patrick,How many bikes is that?!Picking up on your last point, I had a set of 700x38 Barlow Pass XLs on there which, after 8-10 months of riding measured 40mm on my rims, then swapped to Snoqualmie Pass 44 XLs, and, on the same rims...also 40...even after a couple months of riding, and a few days in storage pumped to the max on the sidewall.I'm running 40 psi on those, which is about the minimum on the RH Tire Calculator. Feels great.JoeOn Sunday, June 2, 2024 at 9:19:45 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:IME, even very supple skinny tires can be surprisingly smooth if not pumped too hard; I recall being surprised almost 35 years ago at how smooth 23 mm Specialized 26X1" Turbos felt compared to overinflated 35 mm Fatboys (I thought then that the label max pres was the correct pressure). Much later, Michelin Pro Races at 22 mm actual on narrow rims felt surprisingly comfortable at 80 f/90r, and today's 28 mm (actual, skinny rims) Elk Passes feel almost pillow-like at 55/60 except over the damned 8" to 12" expansion bumps on my access road that I keep meaning to complain to the city about.Speaking of which: I'm curious about others' preferences for air pressure: what pressure for what tire -- width, type of casing -- on what surfaces. I recently started riding my ~49 mm (27 mm IW rims) regular casing Oracle Ridges at 17 psi, down from the 20 that felt harsh over horse hoof chop and stutter bumps, and yes, 17 feels smoother over small bumps while not compromising the road-tire-like handling (on the Matt #1) on pavement -- the ORs handle like the slick Soma Supple Vitesse SLs on pavement, and both tires make the bike handle as I'd asked Chauncey to make it handle, much like my Riv Roads.Current preferred pressures for max bump comfort with pavement cornering precision:ORs ~49 mm actual, combined pavement and (sandy) dirt: 17 psi.Extralight 559X42 mm Naches Passes, mostly pavement, brief firmer dirt: 30/35. I expect I could use as low as 25/30 but this bike sees 30-40 lb rear loads.175 gram 559X28 mm Elk Passes: pavement: 55/60, and were it not for expansion cracks I guess I could drop 5 psi from each.I used to put 20 psi in the 61 mm paper-thin sidewall Big Ones but now I'd drop that to under 17; cornering on pavement be damned, they never did corner crisply, and I expect that at 15-16 with 27 mm IW rims the sidewalls would remain stable.I rode the 72 mm actual WTB Rangers as low as 12-13; since these were ridden almost always on sandy soil, and I'd have used that as the norm except that these were tubeless tires on ~20-21 mm IW non-tubeless rims, so I usually kept them at 15.Patrick Moore, who wishes that the Elk Passes measured closer to the labeled 32 mm on the admittedly 13 mm IW rims.On Sun, Jun 2, 2024 at 9:58 AM Jay  wrote:I know a lot of roadies, who don't mountain bike, who have never tried a tire about 30-32mm.  Before these nice, supple tires became more readily available I had mountain biked and had tires for riding that bike on the roads (off-season), and then I got into cx bikes I had 32mm (ish) tires, and they were all awful (and over-inflated!).  When I went up to 40mm that was an improvement.  A supple tire of anywhere north of 32-35, on a bike that is not overly stiff, pumped to the right pressure, tubeless if you like, is magic.Nice article!



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Re: [RBW] Re: Budget Clem L Build

2024-05-29 Thread Richard Rose

Sorry Gordon, meant to say “Franco”.Sent from my iPhoneOn May 29, 2024, at 8:38 PM, Richard Rose wrote:Gordon, what size Clem? I think the seatpost is 26.8, not 29.8. I’ve made typos too - no biggie.Velomine has decent wheelsets for cheap. Mine are still straight & smooth (cliffhanger on Deore hubs) after almost 8,000 miles. I have an extra 26.8 Kalloy if your bike does not have one.Prior to getting my complete Clem I was considering a frame only / budget build. I actually was making plans to strip my old Trek MTB of its Shimano LX 3x7(9?) drivetrain & v brakes to get the Clem up & running for real cheap. Bikes like my old Trek can be found dirt cheap. Perhaps you could find something similar to steal parts from?Sent from my iPhoneOn May 29, 2024, at 8:09 PM, Gordon Stam wrote:Make sure you get a seatpost with it. Its a 29.8 seatpost which is kind of an odd size.On Wednesday, May 29, 2024 at 5:42:45 PM UTC-6 fmri...@gmail.com wrote:Ciao Everybody,

About to grab a Clem frame and really want to do a highly utilitarian / budget build. Wanted to start a thread with tips and suggestions!

Appreciate you guys,

Franco Rinaldi
c: 646.403.0661

-Pardon any typos, Siri typed this message-

Re: [RBW] Re: Budget Clem L Build

2024-05-29 Thread Richard Rose

Something like this?Shimano Deore LX M550 Touring Bicycle Groupset MTB Gravel Bike Group Set Partsebay.comSent from my iPhoneOn May 29, 2024, at 8:09 PM, Gordon Stam  wrote:Make sure you get a seatpost with it. Its a 29.8 seatpost which is kind of an odd size.On Wednesday, May 29, 2024 at 5:42:45 PM UTC-6 fmri...@gmail.com wrote:Ciao Everybody,

About to grab a Clem frame and really want to do a highly utilitarian / budget build. Wanted to start a thread with tips and suggestions!

Appreciate you guys,

Franco Rinaldi 
c:  646.403.0661 

-Pardon any typos, Siri typed this message-



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Re: [RBW] Re: Budget Clem L Build

2024-05-29 Thread Richard Rose

Gordon, what size Clem? I think the seatpost is 26.8, not 29.8. I’ve made typos too - no biggie.Velomine has decent wheelsets for cheap. Mine are still straight & smooth (cliffhanger on Deore hubs) after almost 8,000 miles. I have an extra 26.8 Kalloy if your bike does not have one.Prior to getting my complete Clem I was considering a frame only / budget build. I actually was making plans to strip my old Trek MTB of its Shimano LX 3x7(9?) drivetrain & v brakes to get the Clem up & running for real cheap. Bikes like my old Trek can be found dirt cheap. Perhaps you could find something similar to steal parts from?Sent from my iPhoneOn May 29, 2024, at 8:09 PM, Gordon Stam wrote:Make sure you get a seatpost with it. Its a 29.8 seatpost which is kind of an odd size.On Wednesday, May 29, 2024 at 5:42:45 PM UTC-6 fmri...@gmail.com wrote:Ciao Everybody,

About to grab a Clem frame and really want to do a highly utilitarian / budget build. Wanted to start a thread with tips and suggestions!

Appreciate you guys,

Franco Rinaldi
c: 646.403.0661

-Pardon any typos, Siri typed this message-

Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: 50 cm Roadini

2024-05-14 Thread Richard Rose

I think C&L have a 47? Not sure how much difference their is compared to a 50 - other then 3cm.Just a thought; how about a Roaduno? Sent from my iPhoneOn May 14, 2024, at 5:29 AM, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:You guys are the best! Also, funny. Thanks for keeping your eyes peeled - with any luck, we’ll find one during riding season, and if not, there are Roadinis coming to Riv this fall. The Racing Platypus is still plenty up to the task, so I can be patient. 😉LOn Tuesday, May 14, 2024 at 1:32:04 AM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:"I'm sure we'll all try and keep our eyes peeled :)"As a long time Friend Of Leah I take it as a personal affront that I haven't been able to find this bike for her yet, I've been searching like it's my JOB. Step up, people! Joe "it's gotta be here somewhere" Bernard On Monday, May 13, 2024 at 5:27:17 PM UTC-7 Ryan wrote:I'm sure we'll all try and keep our eyes peeled :) On Monday, May 13, 2024 at 7:23:01 PM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:I am looking to try out a RivRoad bike and specifically, a 50 cm Roadini. I’ve been looking on my own, but no luck so far. I’d like one with drop bars, so I wouldn’t have to swap out the whole setup, as this likely isn’t a forever bike…it’s an experiment. But we’ll see. If you have one for sale, or if you see one for sale, would you help your RivSister out and tell me? Thanks always!Leah

Re: [RBW] Re: Upright / Relaxed / Swept-Back - Style of Riding

2024-05-08 Thread Richard Rose

What Doug said, almost exactly x2.Long time Roadie here but transitioned to MTB about 15 years ago - now 69. Never had serious issues with properly fit road bike. But after a lot of MTB riding it never felt right again. However, I started having pretty serious hand/wrist issues with straight MTB bars. Bought my Clem to have something comfortable to ride when not mountain biking. Instantly comfortable for all rides/surfaces and for up to six+ hours. So I got a Gus to have a swept back MTB. Both are superbly comfortable. Now I am back riding road/gravel when I do not want to drive to the trail. But when I do drive to the trail it’s more fun than ever.Sent from my iPhoneOn May 8, 2024, at 9:45 PM, Doug H. wrote:When I bought my Clem Smith Jr it was a revelation in riding. I had ridden mostly drop bars for many years and like you I would have shoulder and neck pain after long rides. The Clem with Tosco bars and an upright riding position solved my aches and pains immediately. I also discovered I could ride for 3 hours without pain and my mileage wasn't much less than with a "road bike". I recently bought a Roadini with drop bars. The bars were up nice and high so I don't think I would have experienced neck or shoulder pain. But, I decided to swap the drop bars for Albatross bars. Swept back bars are my preferred and only bars now. This is what works for me but I don't recommend it to people necessarily. I just share my experience and preferences if asked. Another thing about an upright posture is being able to take in the scenery better as I ride. Like I said, it was a revelation for me and has transformed my riding experience.DougOn Wednesday, May 8, 2024 at 9:28:41 PM UTC-4 Jay wrote:I was always aware of bikes with a very relaxed geometry / setup, and it wasn't until I started seeing Rivendell bikes and watching youtube videos of people riding them that I really thought about it - is it more comfortable than drop bars, even if I have a more neutral (not aggressive) position on the bike (i.e., bars close to level with saddle)? Would this be a good option for just cruising around, but for 1-2 hours? If I didn't get along well with flat bars on mountain bike, would swept back bars be better?I'm going to ramble a bit here, my apologies in advance. I haven't thought long enough about this to formulate my question succinctly. Hopefully you get where I'm coming from.Quick background- been riding a little over 20 years (closing in on 50!)- started with mountain biking (hardtail, singletrack); moved to road; tried mountain biking two more times (I love being in nature) but didn't like the thrill/danger, and hated the idea of driving to the trail head; have been mainly on the road for last 15 years, though with 10 years of 'gravel' bikes/riding- I've had ongoing issues with my cervical spine (nothing serious) and this leads to some problems when riding in any sort of aggressive position on the bike; I see a chiro regularly; stretch a lot; workout / strength training; have had numerous bike fits- I have a Roadini, Salsa Fargo and a road bike (25mm tires, but custom made and really does fit like a glove, for road)- I don't care about performance at all, I just love riding bikes, in particular when roads are not busy, or on trails, gravel roads, etc.On a good day (75% of the time), I can ride any of these bikes and during the ride I feel pretty good (little to no pain), maybe a bit of pain after (could be neck/shoulders, but anywhere else really), and after stretching I feel great in a 1/2 to full day. I ride 4-5x a week, workout 1-2 times spring-fall and more in the winter. But at least once a week, and maybe twice, I'll be riding, sometimes tired as it's after work, and within an hour I'm running low on energy and probably start to develop a bad posture on the bike, over-using my arms which causes problems in my neck and shoulders, leading to upper body aches/pains (while riding, and after). Takes a lot of stretching and awareness to reset. This is what I'm trying to resolve (move from 75% to 99%)My guess is that even with a bike like the Roadini or Salsa, with bars about level with the saddle, and even with a professional fitting on each, when I want to ride but I'm lacking energy, it goes poorly. But is that because these bikes are "kind of" aggressive (when compared to say a spine angle closer to 70% and swept back bars)? Or is it simply a combination of age, history of some 'issues', low on energy and thus bad posture kicks in, and would any bike be a joy to ride, or should I just go for a walk on those days!?I would love to hear from those who ride both drop bars and also swept back (or similar) in a way more relaxed geometry, or those who transitioned to mainly this style, because it almost fully resolved your issues, if they're anyway similar to mine. On a day when you're not feeling it, but you have to commute or just love to ride, do you leave the drop bar bike in the garage and hop on your more

Re: [RBW] FS: Supernova dynamo lights

2024-04-30 Thread Richard Rose

PM sent as well.Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 28, 2024, at 10:43 PM, Jay Lonner wrote:Up for sale here are two sets of Supernova lights that are takeoffs from our Bike Fridays (Bikes Friday? What would William Safire say…). Each set includes a black anodized E3 Pro 2 headlight and Tail Light 2. The headlights are on Multimounts , and have spade connectors for a SON dynohub along with factory wiring to power the taillights. Mounted once, never used. Great lights, but dealing with the taillight wires really isn’t practical for bikes that will be broken down and reassembled frequently. We’re going to stick with dynamo headlights and USB rechargeable taillights. Each set would run ~$250 new, I’m looking for $125 per set, and I’ll cover the shipping. Willing to sell them separately.Jay LonnerBellingham, WA

Re: [RBW] The 3x1 road bike. Anticipating some of your RoadUNO builds

2024-04-26 Thread Richard Rose

It’s funny because they just released more details including a “probable” pre sale in June. A month or two back they announced the lugged Susie presale. The next day there was a guy on Instagram riding his lugged Susie!! Had to be a prototype or sample, right?I really want to “commit” but need is not part of the equation. Resisting in Toledo may be futile.Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 26, 2024, at 8:25 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:Committing to yourself is the first step. Stating it on the RBW Group is legally and morally binding, also, so that's step two. If you wanted to get really committed, email Will and see if Will is able to take your money, or if Will already knows you, you may be able to convince him to agree to hold one for you in your size. He may tell you to wait until they are ready to do a pre-sale. BL in ECOn Friday, April 26, 2024 at 5:02:01 PM UTC-7 philip@gmail.com wrote:I said: “I’m getting one!”P. W.~(917) 514-2207~On Apr 26, 2024, at 4:52 PM, Richard Rose <rmro...@gmail.com> wrote:How does one “commit” to a RoadUNO at this point?Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 26, 2024, at 7:19 PM, P W <philip@gmail.com> wrote:Brilliant Bill.And good reference/inspiration.I tried out an Uno on Monday.And committed to a 57 for myself!I’m really excited by the bike and it’s build and ride prospects.Mine’s gonna look like a late 80s MTB disguised as a 3spd road bike, for sure tho!P. W.~(917) 514-2207~On Apr 26, 2024, at 11:26 AM, Bill Lindsay <tape...@gmail.com> wrote:Thanks to unintentional prodding from Leah, I've pressed my new-to-me Romulus into service. Some serindipitous objects in my parts inventory enabled a build concept that is functionally similar to the forthcoming RoadUNO. It's got a single 18T freewheel, a Paul Melvin tensioner (from Joe B), a triple crank with 46/36/24 rings and a single DT shifter for the front derailleur. This morning I "upgraded" the front derailleur to a Campy Mirage, which qualifies this bike for my "Every Bike should have one Campy Part" club:https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/albums/72157719595208740/The other upgrade from this morning is I swapped out the front wheel to a quick release front hub, rather than the bolt-on Phil track hub. I will likely rebuild that Phil front wheel with a dynamo hub. Now the F+R hubs are both black. Also, I "downgraded" to much skinnier tires. This accomplishes two things: It allows wheel removal without deflation -AND- it generates ample clearance for fenders. The three gears are 35/53/68 inches with these tires. I'm becoming progressively more and more "SOLD" on the validity of 3x1 as a build concept. It works. I may end up doing my May 2024 monthly Diablo summit on the RoadTrio. Even though I'm not buying a RoadUNO, I'm excited to see who else gives 3x1 a try with an open mind and concurs that it works for them. Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CA

Re: [RBW] The 3x1 road bike. Anticipating some of your RoadUNO builds

2024-04-26 Thread Richard Rose

How does one “commit” to a RoadUNO at this point?Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 26, 2024, at 7:19 PM, P W wrote:Brilliant Bill.And good reference/inspiration.I tried out an Uno on Monday.And committed to a 57 for myself!I’m really excited by the bike and it’s build and ride prospects.Mine’s gonna look like a late 80s MTB disguised as a 3spd road bike, for sure tho!P. W.~(917) 514-2207~On Apr 26, 2024, at 11:26 AM, Bill Lindsay wrote:Thanks to unintentional prodding from Leah, I've pressed my new-to-me Romulus into service. Some serindipitous objects in my parts inventory enabled a build concept that is functionally similar to the forthcoming RoadUNO. It's got a single 18T freewheel, a Paul Melvin tensioner (from Joe B), a triple crank with 46/36/24 rings and a single DT shifter for the front derailleur. This morning I "upgraded" the front derailleur to a Campy Mirage, which qualifies this bike for my "Every Bike should have one Campy Part" club:https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/albums/72157719595208740/The other upgrade from this morning is I swapped out the front wheel to a quick release front hub, rather than the bolt-on Phil track hub. I will likely rebuild that Phil front wheel with a dynamo hub. Now the F+R hubs are both black. Also, I "downgraded" to much skinnier tires. This accomplishes two things: It allows wheel removal without deflation -AND- it generates ample clearance for fenders. The three gears are 35/53/68 inches with these tires. I'm becoming progressively more and more "SOLD" on the validity of 3x1 as a build concept. It works. I may end up doing my May 2024 monthly Diablo summit on the RoadTrio. Even though I'm not buying a RoadUNO, I'm excited to see who else gives 3x1 a try with an open mind and concurs that it works for them. Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CA

Re: [RBW] Long wheelbase = long chain

2024-04-25 Thread Richard Rose

Count how many links you have now. Call Will & Riv & he will use their bulk chain to send you one the correct length. EZPZ. Cheaper than buying two & easier.Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 25, 2024, at 10:58 AM, Edwin W  wrote:I have a Joe Appa with long chain stays, which necessitates a long chain, longer than a single chain.For all of you out there with a long chain bike, what are your best tips/tricks/techniques for purchasing a chain. Where do you go for a long chain?What else do you think about with chain replacement, maintenance, etc...Lifelong learner, breaking cobbled together chains,Edwin



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Re: [RBW] Re: Evening Spring Ride on the Clem

2024-04-23 Thread Richard Rose

Gordon, can you post a close up pic of your shifter setup? Thanks!Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 21, 2024, at 6:50 PM, Patrick Moore wrote:Welcome back, congratulations on the Clem, and thanks for the binocular suggestion. I lean toward the Carson since its price is more in line with my very occasional and casual use, and because it's so compact.On Sun, Apr 21, 2024 at 11:09 AM Gordon Stam wrote:Hello all,Gordon Stam here. I used to post on this forum, or one like it (I recognize a few names) back in the mid 00s after I bought my Romulus. In the intervening years I drifted away from cycling (I developed a motorcycle habit) but I'm back with the purchase of a 59cm Clem Smith Jr frame which I've built into a parts bin special. I've been lurking for a month or so but this thread has three touchstones for me: the Clem, the Central Coast, and binoculars. Nice shots of your Clem in the trees Chris. I went to school at Cal Poly many years ago,... Regarding binoculars check out the Maven C2 7x28. Maven makes good binos but a wee bit more expensive than those Carson. A better bino though. As far as taking them on a ride I just loop mine over my shoulder bandolier style (see below). With these upright bikes they ride against your chest, or side, pretty unobtrusively and are ready for viewing at a moments notice. I use paracord for a strap with a couple of slip knots for length adustment. This is the Maven B3 6x30. A step up from the C series but a right dandy unit. Costs less than a high end wheelset though!

Re: [RBW] Building up a 45cm Clem for a 5'2 rider

2024-04-21 Thread Richard Rose

ooking at putting her in a somewhat middle between racy and upright. Bosco could work for that I imagine, with the shifters and levers further up and gives her options. Alternatively was thinking Losco could be good, too. Might have her try the Vegan saddle as well.On Friday, April 5, 2024 at 5:06:06 AM UTC-4 John Johnson wrote:Hi Igor,For a 5'2" rider (I'm not going to assume it's for a lady or for your friend!), the 45cm Clem is perfect. Obviously there is no "objective" right answer for which bars to use, and it's gonna depend on different factors (I know I'm not dropping any mind-blowing information, but just to lay the groundwork for my suggestions). I'd ask the following questions:What year Clem is it? The older Clems had shorter top tubes (less reach) than the newer (2019 and post) models. What is the intended use? Tooling around, commuting, touring, mountain biking? How does the rider like to be positioned? Aggressive and racy? Upright and comfy? What is the rider's morphology? Long torso, short legs? Long legs, short torso? Normal legs, normal torso?Are there aesthetic considerations? Are there cost considerations?For me (an N of 1 - I am 5'8", longer torso with very short legs, for reference), I currently ride a Clem 45 L (longer reach 2019 model, but still with 26" wheels before the switch to 27.5") with a 70cm Nitto Tallux at the minimum insertion and 60cm Tosco bars and I couldn't be happier. My wife rides a Clem 45 L with Soma Oxford bars and I really like that set up too, but I find the Oxfords at 54cm (identical to Nitto Albatross) a tad bit narrow for my taste. I rode my pre-2019 Clem H with a Riv Bullmoose (67cm) and it was totally great - but I was running that bike single speed and as a dedicated mountain bike - I don't love the 30° sweep for longer rides (on longer rides, I want 45-60° sweep). I tried Boscos for a minute (I think it was the 54cm that came stock on my wife's Clem), but I felt almost cartoonishly upright and didn't feel connected enough with the bike. For your rider, at 5'2", I'm guessing you have a newer (post 2019 geo changes) Clem and it's likely they'll want swept back bars of some sort. I think the Albatross (or Soma Oxford) are perfect for the Clem - right rise, sweep, width, and good looking to boot. The Toscos, like I mentioned, are great, but I'd opt for the 55cm model probably in your rider's case. Re: the Boscos, I'm a bit taller than your rider, so maybe Boscos would do the trick in their case. Lastly, if they don't want a relaxed position, you've got a billion options of flat or riser bars with minimal sweep, but I won't bother with recs. cheers,John (outside Fontainebleau)On Friday, April 5, 2024 at 6:36:58 AM UTC+2 Kim H. wrote:@Igor -I have a couple of Terry women's saddles that are lightly used to sell, if you are interested for your lady friend.https://www.terrybicycles.com/Cite-X-Gel-Italiahttps://www.terrybicycles.com/Liberator-XContact me off this group for more details and pictures.Kim Hetzel. On Thursday, April 4, 2024 at 7:52:34 PM UTC-7 Richard Rose wrote:A lot of nice bars to choose from. That said, the Bosco is perfect. The extra rise is great as it results in less stem exposed than with the Tosco. I suggest one of the three FacePlater stems makes life so much easier & the older tig welded one is currently on sale, I think. But, without the frame & handlebar at hand it’s guesswork at best regarding stem length. I am 5’10”, ride a 52 Clem with Bosco & 135 FacePlater. I do not know how much shorter the reach is on the 45, but I would guess a stem closer to 70-80? Call Riv & ask them, they give excellent advice. Or, try to get your hands n a few different (cheap) stems to try?Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 4, 2024, at 9:28 PM, Igor <belopol...@gmail.com> wrote:Any suggestions or ways to "know" what stem or bars to use? Not sure where to begin.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Who’s getting a Platypus tomorrow?

2024-04-20 Thread Richard Rose

Tio, pretty sure that’s a “Mermaid” colored Platy. Never knew I needed a Mermaid bike until I got one.:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 20, 2024, at 12:28 PM, tio ryan wrote:

Can you tell us more about why the new stem/bar is a pleasant change?I think it's because getting around the city involves frequent stops and starts and I often find myself riding out of the saddle to accelerate. With the tosco and albatross bars, it felt like my hands were behind me when I was out of the saddle and I had less control. When seated, the new setup has me in a more tucked position resulting in a ride that has felt less sluggish. I also had my saddle too low for a while which definitely wasn't helping.. It’s interesting to see the variations on the Platypus frames from previous years -- lovely setup, Steve! I’ve been wondering what the official name of that color is. It’s my fave!-tio in brooklynOn Friday, April 19, 2024 at 9:51:29 PM UTC-4 Steve wrote:Forgive my photo bombing this thread - but I can't resist. Let's just say I'm posting in response to Bill so anyone following along will be able to contrast the new lugged tubes with the older brazed ones ;- )On Friday, April 19, 2024 at 7:03:41 PM UTC-4 schralp wrote:I just noticed how they changed the transition from the “top” tube to the twin rear stays. So different from my Platy. Mine sweep past the seat tube and melt into it. Not sure how I missed the design change. Beautiful bike and glad it’s getting close to your ideal setup…-BillOn Fri, Apr 19, 2024 at 12:43 PM tio ryan wrote:Hope it's okay to give this thread a bump! I wanted to share how my setup has evolved over the past couple months. Although the previous setup was comfortable, I was experiencing fender rub through turns and it drove me crazy, so I removed the fenders. My thinking was I already have fenders on my other 2 bikes and I'd prefer not to commute in the rain with my Platypus, if possible. After removing the fenders, I changed the pedals. The sw taco pedals were much bigger than I needed and they were getting in the way with the low bb on this bike. I switched the pedals out for sw tiny bubbly pedals I was using on my Kuwahara. I also swapped the b17 for a regal I scored off this list from Julian. For aesthetics, I polished the seat post and shellacked the chainstay protector. From the beginning I knew I wanted a rear rack, so I finally ordered a shiny rear rack from Riv. It's getting warmer here and I'll soon need to switch over to a pannier for my daily commute. I wanted the cockpit to be more sporty, so I ordered a 60mm Nitto 90-190 stem and Ahearne Map bars which did the trick splendidly. It's such a pleasant change from the tosco/tallux combo the bike came with. Finally, I removed the basket from the campee rack as I no longer had a need for it on this bike. Here's how my Platypus is looking now:I'll add the ferrule back to the derailer cable once I settle on the thumb shifter. It's a suntour power ratchet for now. On Friday, January 12, 2024 at 9:25:45 AM UTC-5 tio ryan wrote:Thrilled to be part of the Riv family! I just commuted to work on my Platy and was smiling ear to ear the entire way. I even got a friendly ding-ding from a fellow Riv rider traveling in the opposite direction (I've seen a few others here in Brooklyn over the years). I'm sure more changes will come with time, I'm curious to see myself how it'll look in a year or two. In the near future, I know I'd like to add a rear rack, or maybe a bag. Steve, that's exactly what it is! I'm not even sure who makes this particular one, but it had been strapped to my old man's Hardrock since the early 90s. It's quite nice inverted on a step-thru since the underside of the bag has a reinforced/padded strap that's very comfortable to sit on, or to rest your feet. It also doesn't hurt that it can fit some tools as I'm still dialing in my saddle/bar heights & angles. It was this Blue Lug/Riv video where I saw one on Roman's bike and copied the idea. It's fantastic.-tioOn Thursday, January 11, 2024 at 7:22:41 PM UTC-5 steve...@gmail.com wrote:Tio - I meant to ask about the bag -- Inverted MTB portage bag?On Thursday, January 11, 2024 at 7:18:31 PM UTC-5 Steve wrote:Tio, you've got yourself a good looking Platypus there!!! It's always nice to see another Man On A Mixte. Enjoy!!!StevePlatypusRitchey OutbackSampson Silverton 650b conversionOn Thursday, January 11, 2024 at 12:38:44 PM UTC-5 tio ryan wrote:After years of admiration, I finally talked myself into purchasing a 50cm Platypus complete (Sergio Green) back in November. It arrived mid-December and brought my current fleet of bikes to 3, each with a different wheel size: 26", 700c, and now 650b. This purchase was also my first brand new complete bicycle in over 25 years. I chose the complete since I liked the cranks/wheels, but knowing how much I like to tinker I should have realized it wouldn't stay that way for long. I rode the bike stock for a short while before

Re: [RBW] Re: Sizing question for "in between" PBH measurement

2024-04-19 Thread Richard Rose

Right on cue I was just comparing (via bike insights) my Clem L size 52 to the 54.5 AHH. The upcoming Roaduno is reportedly “essentially a Homer”. I have been wondering if I would be able to achieve a Roaduno fit similar to my Clem. It would appear that might be difficult. Stack is good on the AHH, so I can get the bars high. But the reach! 99mm, nearly 10cm shorter? And I use a 135 FacePlater on the Clem in order to get the Bosco’s in a good place. And the wheelbase; Clem’s is more than 17cm longer!! I know the Roaduno & Clem are by design markedly different animals. But this certainly proves the worth of the kind of information available from bike insights. Much to my disappointment, the Roaduno might not be for me.Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 19, 2024, at 11:53 AM, Bill Lindsay wrote:Bike Insights is terrific way to visualize Stack and Reach. It's excellent. The fact they have a huge "inventory" of bike data makes it particularly convenient, especially if you have a bike you love that's already in there. It can get really tricky for some Rivendells because Riv doesn't have "model years" or batch identifiers, so sometimes you may be looking at the wrong thing. BL in ECOn Friday, April 19, 2024 at 5:21:14 AM UTC-7 Tim Bantham wrote:Without taking a deep dive into the geometry numbers I wanted to share my personal experience. For reference my other Rivs are a 62 Sam and a 60 Platypus. My PBH is 93.5 cm. Going by Rivendell's approach to sizing I ordered a 61.5 Homer earlier this year. I ordered the Platypus and the AHH at the same time and asked Will to hold off on shipping them because I was scheduled to be away from home for an extended period. My plan for the AHH was to use it as a drop bar road bike. While I was waiting for the bikes to ship I studied the geometry comparisons on Bike Insights of my 62 Sam and the 61.5 AHH. After much hand wringing I became considered that the reach was longer then I was comfortable with. After discussing it with Will I decided to size down to the 58 Homer knowing that this would be a drop bar set up. Comparing the 58 Homer to the 62 Sam that I already own the geometry was pretty close. I am riding the Homer with a 8 cm stem and Noodle bars. The Sam has a 5 Cm stem and Crust X Nitto Shaka bars. There is a little more seat post showing than I normally would have but at the end of the day I am perfectly happy with the fit of the 58 Homer. If you have uncertainty about sizing my recommendation is to consult geo sites like Bike Insights but it's really important to talk to the guys at Rivendell. They do a great job with size recommendation. On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 9:04:11 PM UTC-4 Mathias Steiner wrote:This is a useful discussion.I looked up Sam geometry for myself. The bikes that fit me have top tube lengths of 56 to 59 cm, and they come in seat tube lengths from 52 to 64 cm -- that last one a Cannondale ST600 in 25", great riding bike, that gives me basically zero standover clearance. I ride it with a Nitto Noodle and a 60 mm long Technomic stem.The 57 cm Sam has an "effective "top-tube length of 60 cm.The 54 cm has 58 cm, right in the middle of my accustomed range.My Bruce Gordon/Taiwan BLT has just about the same geometry as my Cannondale T400 in 23" size -- 58.4 cm top tube, and those bikes fit really well. The BLT is the one with the 52 cm (c-to-c) seat tube. I talked to the man himself whne I bought it, because that seemed so small, and he convinced me (*).So for me, 6 foot nothing and 89 cm PBH, I'd get the 54 Sam since I want the drop bar, never mind the Rivendell sizing charts. They can say "works great with drops or upright bars," and not really be wrong," but it's hardly the same bike then. I took this picture on my winter beater to illustrate the point. There's 10-15 cm difference in the hand positions between the drop bar (VO Randonneur) and the Nitto Northrads bar, which has fairly mild width and backsweep. With an Albatross or Bosco, I might want the 60 cm Sam with the 61.5 top tube and the 87.9 cm standover. cheers -mathias(*) Bruce Gordon was nice to me!Wasn't there a T shirt with that slogan? We lost an icon when he died.On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 8:20:44 PM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:That I can't say BUT if you go with the 54 might I suggest the Billie bars? They are similar to the Albatross but go back a bit further. Quite luxurious.On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 8:13:32 PM UTC-4 Robert Calton wrote:That does make sense. I wonder if a 130 stem with the Albatross bars on the 51 would give enough knee clearance, because I definitely want to run those bars. On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 8:08:44 PM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:I would never question Rivendell's knowledge on anything at all but like I said their method of sizing bikes for people does not work for me personally. If you are comfortable on the 55 Salsa the 54 SH will feel a lot bigger. The 51 will likely feel pretty close. But I don't want to discourage sizing up especially if you

Re: [RBW] Re: Rack(s) for Clem

2024-04-19 Thread Richard Rose

Oops! My reply should have been to Igor.Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 19, 2024, at 9:33 AM, Richard Rose wrote:Hello Ian. I have a few racks for my Clem L (52) that I quite like. First is a Riv “Shiny” rack. It is very sturdy/rigid and supports panniers nicely. I have also used it as a saddlebag support. I also have a Nitto R10 for bag support. It works great & is beautiful. Perhaps a bit against the grain I also use a Tumbleweed “T rack”. I have used this as a front rack on the Clem & a rear rack on my Gus. It is unique in that it has three bolt mounts built in to the vertical struts. I mount King many things caves and use fork bags. I mount a Wald basket to the platform. It works great & certainly would be a good large handlebar bag support.Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 19, 2024, at 9:04 AM, ian m wrote:I have one of the Pletscher rear racks Riv sold as the "Clem rack" if you're interested. Has the removable pannier rails.On Friday, April 19, 2024 at 8:16:50 AM UTC-4 Igor wrote:What racks do folks like for their Clem? I am selling my campee racks because they are not a good fit on the wider-dropouts of a Clem, and I'd like something simpler for rear.1 for my wife, 1 for me (We both will have a Clem soon...orange one coming for me :D )I am looking at the RB14 and also the Rivendell Big Rack. I'm probably OK with just a saddle bag, and she may want panniers, so I figure the Big Rack for her, but maybe some other options out there to consider?Thanks!

Re: [RBW] Re: Rack(s) for Clem

2024-04-19 Thread Richard Rose

Hello Ian. I have a few racks for my Clem L (52) that I quite like. First is a Riv “Shiny” rack. It is very sturdy/rigid and supports panniers nicely. I have also used it as a saddlebag support. I also have a Nitto R10 for bag support. It works great & is beautiful. Perhaps a bit against the grain I also use a Tumbleweed “T rack”. I have used this as a front rack on the Clem & a rear rack on my Gus. It is unique in that it has three bolt mounts built in to the vertical struts. I mount King many things caves and use fork bags. I mount a Wald basket to the platform. It works great & certainly would be a good large handlebar bag support.Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 19, 2024, at 9:04 AM, ian m wrote:I have one of the Pletscher rear racks Riv sold as the "Clem rack" if you're interested. Has the removable pannier rails.On Friday, April 19, 2024 at 8:16:50 AM UTC-4 Igor wrote:What racks do folks like for their Clem? I am selling my campee racks because they are not a good fit on the wider-dropouts of a Clem, and I'd like something simpler for rear.1 for my wife, 1 for me (We both will have a Clem soon...orange one coming for me :D )I am looking at the RB14 and also the Rivendell Big Rack. I'm probably OK with just a saddle bag, and she may want panniers, so I figure the Big Rack for her, but maybe some other options out there to consider?Thanks!

Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 52cm Sam Hillborne Complete Albatross-build Bike (Waterford frame, Taiwan fork) $1800

2024-04-16 Thread Richard Rose

Try posting one pic at a time.Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 16, 2024, at 7:55 PM, Joe Bernard wrote:This is for a phone, I take screenshots of the photos and it works. On Tuesday, April 16, 2024 at 2:00:30 PM UTC-7 Rich Lesnik wrote:Can anyone tell me how to post photos on the forum? I have 7 photos of the previously listed 52cm Sam, but keep getting a "message too large" notification when I try to post them.On Tuesday, April 16, 2024 at 1:40:04 PM UTC-7 Rich Lesnik wrote:This is my old Sam, returned to me by my brother who doesn't ride it anymore. Color is sage green. Suntour XCPro front/rear detailers, wheels built by me, Deore hubs, Atlas (rear) Synergy (front) rims. Sugino XD2 triple crank. Includes B67 honey saddle, Gripking pedals. Local Bay Area pickup. Photos available on request (unless someone can tell me how to post photos on the forum!)

Re: [RBW] FS: Swift Cascade rolltop Pannier set, maybe a Fab's Chest large

2024-04-09 Thread Richard Rose

I lucked into a set of these exact panniers a couple of years ago. They are really great & after doing a little research it seems they are highly collectible. Great price imho.Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 8, 2024, at 9:52 AM, Austin Plocher wrote:Swift Pannier Set - $1752x Panniers: vinyl interior lining, external zip pocket, carrying handle, reflective strips, hook and bungee cord mounting system, D-rings... Don't have exact specs on interior volume but can carry plenty. I did one bikepacking trip with these but otherwise in good shape, everything in working order. Made back when Swift was MUSA, I believe.Gauging interest in Classic Large Fabio's Chest Burgundy, can take pics if anyone's interested. Would sell for something like $175 also? Missing one magnetic snap, doesn't really affect functionality. Came like that from Ron's, they offered to fix but timing never lined up to send back.Pics of Swift panniers attached

Re: [RBW] Re: Soliciting opinions: help me pick the right Rivendell

2024-04-06 Thread Richard Rose

I am curious about the specific nature of the trails you ride. Smooth dirt? Rocks & Roots? Lots of twists & turns? If pretty much innocuous I haven’t much to add to the conversation. But if the trails you ride get a little rowdy grab yourself a lugged Susie (or any Susie/Gus). Truly capable mtb’s and smooth as silk on pavement / gravel. Get yourself a second set of wheels reserved for dedicated pavement rides.Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 6, 2024, at 8:58 AM, DavidP wrote:"My ideal bike would be something that could ride 15-20 miles to the trail and then 10-15 more on the trail. And also manage chipotle, beer, and post office runs."That's about 60/40 pavement/trail, add in the errands and other stuff and it's more like 70/30.What tire size is ideal for the trails you are riding? What tire size is the minimum to enjoy them? I'd probably try to aim for something in the lower half of that range given the pavement/trail mix and desire for the bike to feel sporty.If the tire size is less than 2" then that opens up the Sam (48s w/o fenders). If you'd rather have something in the 2" - 2.25" range that's Appaloosa, Atlantis, Platypus territory. Larger than that Clem or Susie.-DaveOn Saturday, April 6, 2024 at 5:50:01 AM UTC-4 Ed Carolipio wrote:Sounds like you want the OG - the Atlantis. Here's Ron talking about his third Atlantis, which is also the bike he bent the Albatross for to create the Ortho bar:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_0qSPMps48The Sam is also a good alternative: shorter chainstays and a slightly lighter frame. I don't own one but people report it is a bit nimbler on the trails than the longer chainstay models.I'd exclude the Clem, the Susie/Gus, the Appaloosa, and the Platypus since IMO they won't work as well with bendy bars with their longish front-centers. I'd exclude the AHH, the Roadini, and the Roadeo since all take caliper brakes which limits the tire widths for off road or unpaved riding.Good luck and hope you find a bike (Riv or otherwise) that helps you with your bike journey.--Ed C.Redondo Beach, CAOn Friday, April 5, 2024 at 5:43:49 PM UTC-7 Bud Suttree wrote:Hi all,

Been enjoying these forums for a while now, with my first post I’d like to lean on the immense collective wisdom here and get some help with picking out the right Rivendell model. I’ve done quite a lot of personal research and spoken to Riv at least once but would like to open things up to the group for general discussion.

Short sketch of my problem: I love bicycles, but haven’t enjoyed riding them in a long time. I have quite a few, and they all are unpleasant to ride for one reason or another. My priorities are, in descending order: comfort, performance (perceived), utility, price/aesthetics (tie), performance (actual), and at the end would be the ability to do any outer-boundary/end-of-spectrum type activity, riding across the country or racing crits, etc. My ideal bike would be something that could ride 15-20 miles to the trail and then 10-15 more on the trail. And also manage chipotle, beer, and post office runs.

Every time I browse the Riv offerings I become convinced I need a different model. I’m thinking maybe the Atlantis would suit me, but I don’t necessarily love the double top tube, and I’d probably be between the 57 and 59. The Appaloosa seems pretty similar, but I’m not crazy about either of the current colors. Can’t say I can tell the difference between that one and the Sam, but I like the Sam aesthetic better. I’m also tempted by the gold Susie/Wolbis, but since I’ll be riding mostly around town, worry that it might not feel as agile as the bikes I’m use to riding do.

That’s the short version — would welcome any takes or opinions.

Longer story:

Like the rest of you, I love bicycles. A substantial amount of my attention is given to them, day after day, in one way or another. Unfortunately, lately this has not translated into actually riding them very often. It’s a paradoxical state, induced by having too many (project) bikes, none of which I can tolerate to ride for more than half an hour. It’s mostly a comfort issue. FWIW, I am a not unhealthy late 20something male with probably poorish posture from desk-jockeying. I rode an aluminum Cannondale road bike daily for five years, crashed, broke some bones and swore it off for two, then entered this present cycle.

Economic realities necessitate the need to flip bikes and parts to fund the passion. Maybe you think that’s a dirty trade; most are. I’ve had the good fortune to pick up an outrageously rare old school BMX bike for essentially nothing that should cover a very nice Rivendell build, and hopefully obviate the need to engage in as much cycling commerce.

Along the way, I’ve acquired an interesting stable:

93 Bridgestone RB-1 and MB-2
Custom 90s Ciocc w/ Columbus EL and Chorus
93ish lugged Trek 990
1985 Trek 620

and a cache of interesting parts, so it’s not been for nothing, but I don’t like riding any of those bikes. Had (still have?) big dre

Re: [RBW] Building up a 45cm Clem for a 5'2 rider

2024-04-05 Thread Richard Rose

n their case. Lastly, if they don't want a relaxed position, you've got a billion options of flat or riser bars with minimal sweep, but I won't bother with recs. cheers,John (outside Fontainebleau)On Friday, April 5, 2024 at 6:36:58 AM UTC+2 Kim H. wrote:@Igor -I have a couple of Terry women's saddles that are lightly used to sell, if you are interested for your lady friend.https://www.terrybicycles.com/Cite-X-Gel-Italiahttps://www.terrybicycles.com/Liberator-XContact me off this group for more details and pictures.Kim Hetzel. On Thursday, April 4, 2024 at 7:52:34 PM UTC-7 Richard Rose wrote:A lot of nice bars to choose from. That said, the Bosco is perfect. The extra rise is great as it results in less stem exposed than with the Tosco. I suggest one of the three FacePlater stems makes life so much easier & the older tig welded one is currently on sale, I think. But, without the frame & handlebar at hand it’s guesswork at best regarding stem length. I am 5’10”, ride a 52 Clem with Bosco & 135 FacePlater. I do not know how much shorter the reach is on the 45, but I would guess a stem closer to 70-80? Call Riv & ask them, they give excellent advice. Or, try to get your hands n a few different (cheap) stems to try?Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 4, 2024, at 9:28 PM, Igor <belopol...@gmail.com> wrote:Any suggestions or ways to "know" what stem or bars to use? Not sure where to begin.

Re: [RBW] Building up a 45cm Clem for a 5'2 rider

2024-04-05 Thread Richard Rose

Hmm.., I’ve not run into this problem on my 52 Clem. I do run my FacePlater quite high - 14 of the 16cm available exposed. But, I am able to drop it down a lot which I discovered while searching for the perfect height. I do concede that might not be the case with a 45 frame. Going with a shorter quill would cause me to even more highly recommend the Bosco bar. You almost cannot get the bars too high on a Clem. Although that could just be my 69 year old self talking.:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 5, 2024, at 9:02 AM, Johnny Alien wrote:Note when choosing stem (as I see a Faceplater was suggested), the smaller sizes have headtubes that don't go very deep. I face this on the 50-52 sizes. Those SUPER tall stems that Rivendell sells will not go very far in and thus you are forced to have a ton of stem exposed. Couple that with a bar like the Bosco and you will be way way way up with no way to get it lower. Pick up a stem that does not have the super long lengths. Go short even if you have any uprise to it or are planning to use handlebars that also have height. The losco bars are my favorite bars and perfect for a racy upright mix. Also they are the best looking bars that Riv sells (IMO)On Friday, April 5, 2024 at 8:48:53 AM UTC-4 Igor wrote:This is a 2023 45cm Clem. I'm looking at putting her in a somewhat middle between racy and upright. Bosco could work for that I imagine, with the shifters and levers further up and gives her options. Alternatively was thinking Losco could be good, too. Might have her try the Vegan saddle as well.On Friday, April 5, 2024 at 5:06:06 AM UTC-4 John Johnson wrote:Hi Igor,For a 5'2" rider (I'm not going to assume it's for a lady or for your friend!), the 45cm Clem is perfect. Obviously there is no "objective" right answer for which bars to use, and it's gonna depend on different factors (I know I'm not dropping any mind-blowing information, but just to lay the groundwork for my suggestions). I'd ask the following questions:What year Clem is it? The older Clems had shorter top tubes (less reach) than the newer (2019 and post) models. What is the intended use? Tooling around, commuting, touring, mountain biking? How does the rider like to be positioned? Aggressive and racy? Upright and comfy? What is the rider's morphology? Long torso, short legs? Long legs, short torso? Normal legs, normal torso?Are there aesthetic considerations? Are there cost considerations?For me (an N of 1 - I am 5'8", longer torso with very short legs, for reference), I currently ride a Clem 45 L (longer reach 2019 model, but still with 26" wheels before the switch to 27.5") with a 70cm Nitto Tallux at the minimum insertion and 60cm Tosco bars and I couldn't be happier. My wife rides a Clem 45 L with Soma Oxford bars and I really like that set up too, but I find the Oxfords at 54cm (identical to Nitto Albatross) a tad bit narrow for my taste. I rode my pre-2019 Clem H with a Riv Bullmoose (67cm) and it was totally great - but I was running that bike single speed and as a dedicated mountain bike - I don't love the 30° sweep for longer rides (on longer rides, I want 45-60° sweep). I tried Boscos for a minute (I think it was the 54cm that came stock on my wife's Clem), but I felt almost cartoonishly upright and didn't feel connected enough with the bike. For your rider, at 5'2", I'm guessing you have a newer (post 2019 geo changes) Clem and it's likely they'll want swept back bars of some sort. I think the Albatross (or Soma Oxford) are perfect for the Clem - right rise, sweep, width, and good looking to boot. The Toscos, like I mentioned, are great, but I'd opt for the 55cm model probably in your rider's case. Re: the Boscos, I'm a bit taller than your rider, so maybe Boscos would do the trick in their case. Lastly, if they don't want a relaxed position, you've got a billion options of flat or riser bars with minimal sweep, but I won't bother with recs. cheers,John (outside Fontainebleau)On Friday, April 5, 2024 at 6:36:58 AM UTC+2 Kim H. wrote:@Igor -I have a couple of Terry women's saddles that are lightly used to sell, if you are interested for your lady friend.https://www.terrybicycles.com/Cite-X-Gel-Italiahttps://www.terrybicycles.com/Liberator-XContact me off this group for more details and pictures.Kim Hetzel. On Thursday, April 4, 2024 at 7:52:34 PM UTC-7 Richard Rose wrote:A lot of nice bars to choose from. That said, the Bosco is perfect. The extra rise is great as it results in less stem exposed than with the Tosco. I suggest one of the three FacePlater stems makes life so much easier & the older tig welded one is currently on sale, I think. But, without the frame & handlebar at hand it’s guesswork at best regarding stem length. I am 5’10”, ride a 52 Clem with Bosco & 135 FacePlater. I do not know how much shorter the reach is

Re: [RBW] Building up a 45cm Clem for a 5'2 rider

2024-04-04 Thread Richard Rose

A lot of nice bars to choose from. That said, the Bosco is perfect. The extra rise is great as it results in less stem exposed than with the Tosco. I suggest one of the three FacePlater stems makes life so much easier & the older tig welded one is currently on sale, I think. But, without the frame & handlebar at hand it’s guesswork at best regarding stem length. I am 5’10”, ride a 52 Clem with Bosco & 135 FacePlater. I do not know how much shorter the reach is on the 45, but I would guess a stem closer to 70-80? Call Riv & ask them, they give excellent advice. Or, try to get your hands n a few different (cheap) stems to try?Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 4, 2024, at 9:28 PM, Igor wrote:Any suggestions or ways to "know" what stem or bars to use? Not sure where to begin.

Re: [RBW] NBD - Purple Appaloosa

2024-04-01 Thread Richard Rose

Love everything about this post!Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 1, 2024, at 3:45 AM, Dan wrote:Hi everyone, I’d like to share the story of my new purple Appaloosa. I’ve gained a great deal of insight and enjoyment from reading this forum, so it’s only right that I return the favour with a story of my own.From the first time I had heard that there was a company called Rivendell, I knew that someday I’d be riding one. I’d avidly read Tolkein in my childhood, so to hear that there were LotR themed bicycles - and that they were so beautiful! - was just fascinating to me. The more I read about the bikes and the philosophy, the more I was convinced. The final straw was coming across ‘Calling In Sick Magazine’, aka the unofficial Rivendell fan magazine. Reading the stories and looking at the photos of those people riding on dry hills near the ocean, in terrain not to dissimilar to what I ride here in Adelaide, Australia, gave me the impetus to make my dream a reality.So, why did I choose an Appaloosa? To answer that, here is a little bit about the other bikes in my stable…Surly StragglerThis was my first ‘nice’ bike, the first bike I actually did any research on before buying. I bought it to be my only bike and a do-it-all bike, one that would be reliable and fun both day-to-day and on riding anywhere and everywhere when I felt like adventure. In that, it’s met all my expectations and then some. It’s set up with a rack and fenders as a commuter, but over time I’ve tweaked it with wider, flared drops, fatter, more supple rubber and lower gearing to suit my increasing desire to explore. I’ve ridden this bike on two (metric) centuries, countless suburban explorations, in the rain, on gravel, and on single track. It does it all, more or less. I’ve never liked the looks of the stack of spacers I needed to get the bars high, and the gearing is probably a bit high, though that has made me stronger. Descending on the dirt, even with the flared drops, is a whole-body workout. Side note - I actually wanted a Cross Check, but they weren’t available to order in Australia when I bought this bike.Bassi BloomfieldIt took a while to allow myself the thought that it was ok to have more than one bike. I’d been browsing Blue Lug and watching Terry Barentsen during the pandemic and fell in love with the idea of 650b, fat tyres, upright bars and front baskets. The day after I’d decided that I could get myself another bike, my local bike shop listed a whole bunch of Bassi frames for sale. The clearance for wide 650b tyres and the flower head tube graphic sold me instantly!This bike has been a revelation for me. There’s something about it - the wide bars, the light frame, having no gears - that just clicks with me. It’s like the bike is hard-wired into my brain. And the basket! It’s so practical. More than that, though, this bike looks great. It’s a bike that non-bike people complement me on. And it sold me on how good it feels to ride upright.Why Appaloosa?Which brings me to the Appaloosa. In the last two years I’d begun to the explore the range of hills that flank Kaurna country / the Adelaide plains. I like riding from my door, winding through the suburbs to a trail head, then climbing and exploring the trails, going a little further each time. I wanted a bike that would be fun to ride on the road but more comfortable and capable off it than my other bikes. In short, I wanted a touring bike, and the Appaloosa seemed like it. I liked that the 2.2” tyres looked like a balance of speed and comfort, and the long chainstays promised to smooth out bumps and make hair-raising off-road descents more palatable. Spoiler alert: both of these things were true!I’ll spare you the story of sourcing the frame. I’ll only say that I initially hesitated on the purple colour, which in hindsight was absolutely ridiculous. Purple is my favourite colour and THIS purple is amazing. It’s perfect.First ImpressionsI picked up the Appaloosa on Thursday after my bike shop kindly managed to get it ready before the Easter long weekend. Since then, I’ve taken the bike on a couple of long rides and a handful of short ones. The long rides include a 50km-or-so out and back along the linear trail of Adelaide’s main river, and one of my regular, rocky, single-track heavy foothills climbing loops.The comfort of the riding position on this bike is incredible. My chest feels so open, and I can look around freely. I’m almost too carefree and sometimes need to remind myself to look at where I’m going! Despite this, pedalling isn’t a chore either. When climbing, the combination of long wheelbase and low gearing (24 x 36 low gear) makes it feel like there’s a motor behind me, pushing my up climbs without losing traction. Descending is impressively stable, both on road and off. It’s almost a joke how much more calm and in control I was riding down a steep, dirt hill face this morning. On my Straggler I was physically exhausted from the short descent from the effort it took to hold

Re: [RBW] Long Chainstays - What Problem/Deficiency Do They Solve?

2024-03-31 Thread Richard Rose

Oh man, I don’t know where to start. I will by stating that as a cyclist for nearly 50 years I was aware of Rivendell since their inception. But I never really entertained owning one until the long chainstay bikes. Why? Because Rivendell’s looked like road bikes & to me the best road bikes came with the name of the maker on the downtube. My fascination with Rivendell coincided with no longer being obsessed with going fast & putting a higher priority on being comfortable & “chill”.I don’t know how it can be argued that the long chainstay bikes with their large volume tires offer a smoother riding experience. And that superior ride definitely applies to “rail trails” and every other riding surface I am aware of. So I do not know that they “solve a problem” but rather challenge what a bike can be. First my Clem L gave me a riding experience I was unfamiliar with & became a bicycle that I could not, not ride. Then a Gus changed everything I thought I knew about mountain bikes. I am just one person & different strokes for different folks. But my experience with long chainstay bikes has been transformative. It’s the only reason I am interested in a Roaduno.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 31, 2024, at 1:50 PM, 'John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ' via RBW Owners Bunch wrote:Enjoyed reading the thread "Anyone else not a fan of long chainstays?", especially Bill L's explanation of the RBW bike design philosophy. Seems the prevailing thought is long stays are better forupright ridingsingle track type trails (vs a Rails to Trails type trail)I'll just note 2 'facts'1 The vast majority of RBW models (except the Roadeo type frame) use slack STA and HTA which may contribute to the ride effect when coupled with long stays.2. In the beginning RBW addressed getting the bars higher and adopting a non-racer riding style (back at 45° with hands on hoods), which IMHO were solutions to actual problems.So What problem or current deficiency in bike design is Grant solving by using long chain staysJust to bring bikes to market that no one else is building??Or do they solve a real problem???John HawrylakWoodstown NJFWIW 2 of 3 of my frames have 44 to 45cm chain stays, and 1 has a 43cm chain stay. It's hard to notice a ride difference.

Re: [RBW] Silver shifters, v1 vs. v2

2024-03-29 Thread Richard Rose

First, I did not realize the v1 units looked different. I don’t think I’ve seen them. My experience then is limited to the v2’s and it has been very positive on two bikes. I’ve not yet resorted to loctite & slippage has been minimal. My riding is pretty chill pace wise but my mileage is significant. Occasionally I do notice a slip & a very small turn will fix the problem. I’ve been reluctant to use the loctite thinking it might make these small in-ride adjustments more difficult? I’ve used all sorts of shifting solutions including AXS. I actually prefer my Silver v2 experience over all others I have used even though it’s more “work”.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 29, 2024, at 6:56 PM, ian m wrote:I love the look of the Silver1 shifters. IMO they are the platonic ideal whether on downtube or bar-end. Yet I find in my experience the performance refuses to meet the aesthetic quality. Try as I may I can't get the shifter to stay put. Loctite or beeswax, slippage, then over-tightening. There's still no better option than the plastic washer? Hoped the brass bit over the plastic would protect it, no such luck they always crack. I'm tired of trying to make these work. Do the newer Silver2 shifters improve in performance where they've... let's just say changed in aesthetics? It reads as though they have the same internals which I would assume is the issue. While they do have a look that maybe only a mother could love I'm willing to give them a shot if it's a noticeable difference.I am index curious but not sure I'd want to pay the Dura-Ace bar-end price rather than making the all-out switch to brifters. Any thoughts or advice welcome.

Re: [RBW] FS: Sam Hillborne 56cm 2TT

2024-03-29 Thread Richard Rose

Lovely! Price?Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 29, 2024, at 1:09 PM, Abe Gardner  wrote:Sentimental history at the end, let’s start with the details as built (and I have drop bars, an XT Rapid Rise RD, and other parts I could swap in for slight price changes):Sam Hillborne 56cm double top tubeWheels by Rich Lesnik Hands on Wheels: -Velocity Atlas rims (matte silver),-Silver Deore hubs, -Double butted spokes,-Soma Shikoro 700x38 tires, tan sidewall (very few miles, one has a small nick that doesn’t affect function)Handlebar: Nitto Albastache Bar (RM017 w/some tape residue - I’ll wrap/shellack them for you if you want but figure you may want to adjust first).Stem: Nitto 7cm if my memory is right, I’ll measure again. Brake levers: Tiagra BL-R400 SilverFront brake: Paul Components Racer brake silver (I could swap a black one from my Cheviot if you prefer), silver Moon Unit, Purple Funky Monkey cable hanger, Koolstop cartridge pads (silver)Black skewers, probably shimano.Rear brake: Tektro R559 Extra Long Reach silver (rust on the spring) w/Koolstop cartridge pads (silver)Seatpost: Nitto S65 (standard scuffing)Pedals: VP-Vice Blue VP-015-BL Crankset: Clipper triple with 46 / 36 / 26 (I’ll double check that) w/minimal wear on ringsChain: lighter weight KMC 9 or 10 speed, minimal wear (has two quick links because long chain stays)Front and Rear Derailers: Deore LX (probably made for 8 speed, work great with friction shifting this 9 speed cassette FD-M568 RD-M568).Front shifter: Microshift friction or 3 speed index.Rear shifter: Rivendell Silver shifter and “O” Silver friction leverCassette: Shimano HG 11-36t, low miles. (Might be 12-36)Plencher single leg kickstandJagwire cables and housing in dark grayFSA headset Riv always seems to use. Want drop bars? I have Soma Portola bars (think flared Nitto Noodles) in 46cm at hoods, 52cm between bar ends. Silver Tektro TRP RRL SR Drillum brake levers with tan gum hoods. We can sort a price. Here are those bars/levers with different tape and black covers, now tan covers and black/rainbow tape:I’ll throw in a set of SKS fenders if you want them, well used but work great. Hardware included. Seat not included, but I have a Brooks C15 ‘tester’ somewhere if you want, add $45?There is a little scuffing to the paint along the middle of the top tube where there was shellacked twine to protect against bar strikes. Random nicks and scratches, some filled with close but not perfect Testers paint. Always hard to say goodbye to a Riv, but this Sam is a special one - took me on my first Century and all over Napa and Sonoma counties, twice around Lake Tahoe. Purchased as used from Riv in 2019, though they asked not to be bothered about its history. It’s got standard beusage for being several years old and ridden plenty, but it’s still beautiful in my book. There are a few spots of shellack that ought to come out with denatured alcohol and elbow grease.  Here’s the relevant old geometry chart with the 56cm stats:https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gfiN1kOxVrthdc6eScUF9fP5n-BvRBILbBMYiEg5LM4/edit#gid=083.4cm stand overHere a photo of how it was setup when I got it, quite a few changes since then: Good for PBH 84 thru 89 by my estimate (I’m 84cm PBH and it’s a good fit).Located in Napa but I make my way to SF and Berkeley every couple weekends so could deliver there. 



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Re: [RBW] Re: Rapid rise derailleur suggestion

2024-03-20 Thread Richard Rose

My only rapid rise - a beautiful Nexave courtesy of JJ - has made me a big fan. In particular, I am quite happy with my non rapid rise Deore unit on my Clem which gets lots of flatlander miles. But my Gus gets the singletrack hills. This is where the Nexave has one huge benefit. It takes zero effort to shift to an easier gear when I need it most. Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 20, 2024, at 1:14 PM, J J wrote:I'm 100 percent with Jock on this issue. It's hard to take the Disraeli Gears comments about the XT RD-M760 seriously, dripping as they are with dismissiveness. We've had long threads on this forum about low normal derailleurs before, and I still find the myths that circulate about Rapid Rise perplexing. For example, the myths that Rapid Rise performs "worse" than high normal, or it's harder to set up or index, or that (per the Disraeli Gears comments) it's somehow more prone to rust than other derailleurs in the same general series, like the XT M750, built with the same material.The reason I favor RR comes down to a shifting logic that works better for my brain and motor coordination than high normal. I shift in friction mode on all my bikes, which all have low normal rear ders. I like that I can move both levers in the same direction to get to higher/harder or lower/easier gears instead of moving oppositely. That's about it. I do think there are a few other benefits of RR: if my shift cable broke, the RR spring will push the derailleur to the easiest gear instead of the hardest, thus avoiding a potential high-gear slog home. But how often do cables break? RR also seems to shift more easily to lower/easier gears under load. But maybe this is a misattribution. Maybe I've simply gotten better about timing my shifts and floating the pedals. It does not mean that I have trouble with high normal shifting! To the contrary, high normal is just fine. Low normal is just a preference. What works great for Rapid Rise adherents won't necessarily work great for anyone else. Once you try RR, the possible outcomes will be that you like it, you hate it, or that you're more or less neutral about it. (You will also realize that one way or another, it is not earth shattering or life changing, nor will it make you a more skilled and faster rider). Any shifts I have missed or bungled are totally attributable to user error, to my timing or judgement, and not anything inherent to a high normal vs. low normal modality.Finally, all Rapid Rise rear ders I have tried, from the humble end to the fancy XTRs, work beautifully. The differences between them are refinement level, materials, weight, looks, aesthetics, and so on, just like every other Shimano product categories that are stratified by price point.On Tuesday, March 19, 2024 at 10:38:41 PM UTC-4 John Dewey wrote:@ http://disraeligears.co.uk/…well I suppose if you pedal around in a saltwater bath, like some of those unfortunate souls…that might happen. For those us who ride under sunny skies now and again—and take care of stuff properly—I can tell you that after years and years of working those mechs, never a mixed-up shift that wasn’t my doing and not even a microscopic spot of corrosion to be found anywhere. Total hooey I say. And I’ve got the goods to prove it 🤪JockOn Tue, Mar 19, 2024 at 7:15 PM Chintan Jadwani wrote:Another question - from a couple of reviews here people seem indifference of the performance between low vs high normal. But online elsewhwre, there seems to be strong dislike for low normal - why is that? For example - disraeligears.co.uk writes for the xt m760"The Shimano Deore XT (M760) is my absolutely least favourite Deore XT variant. It has cheap (rust prone) detailing, unnecessary styling and, worst of all, it’s low normal. not your obvious choice for slogging your way through the mud and grime of a British winter. Bring back stainless steel small parts, polished finishes and top normal operating logic."On Wed, 20 Mar, 2024, 5:07 am John Dewey, wrote:And the Rivendell ‘fan base’ is a subset of another and another so as to be mostly inconsequential. We do count, however and a few brave souls do sort-of OK serving us. Nevertheless, most of us (even here in RBW’s backyard) seldom cross paths with cyclists with whom we have anything in common other than two wheels. We’re already a bit abnormal and ‘low-normal’ makes us even more so. Jock (and his fleet of abnormal low-normals)On Tue, Mar 19, 2024 at 9:41 AM Johnny Alien wrote:I have to think that most of the market for these is from the Rivendell fan base. I don't hear any other bike group talking about them at all. Because of that I kind of think IF Riv ends up bringing their new one to market the used scene will come WAY down. Just a theory. I really hope that I can test the theory (because they successfully release it)On Tuesday, March 19, 2024 at 12:14:10 PM UTC-4 chintan...@gmail.com wrote:Thank you all for the replies :) Now that I kn

Re: [RBW] Ride Report--'24 Diablo Summit #3 and first big ride on RoadeoRosa

2024-03-16 Thread Richard Rose

Thanks for the Clarification. Glad it feels great.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 16, 2024, at 8:12 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:The Roadeo is "built to order" but it has a stock geometry and tubing. It is not a custom. When one buys a Rivendell Custom, they are paying for Grant to design a unique bike for them. That's very different than most other "custom" bikes, where the buyer can specify everything. A custom Rivendell is still specified completely by Grant. I wanted and paid for a 59cm Roadeo. I had a few of my own little twists: a Legolas fork crown, cantilever posts, etc, but it is a Roadeo. Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CAOn Saturday, March 16, 2024 at 4:40:41 PM UTC-7 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:Cool bike, great story - congrats. Question; the Roadeo is a custom bicycle frame, correct? As such, would it not be designed specifically for the rider - in this case you? If this is correct, why would it or any Roadeo be overbuilt? Unless of course you asked for it to be.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 16, 2024, at 6:20 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:This morning I rode out my front door in El Cerrito to the Summit of Mount Diablo. It was my first big ride on my new pink Roadeo, having tackled the travails of Rene Herse Cantilevers and having just set up a new pair of tubeless Rene Herse Orondo Grade tires. It was in the high 40s when I left, just before sunrise. As soon as the sun came out it warmed up quite a bit and was a beautiful breezy Spring Day. The bike was perfect, the tires were splendid. Despite the planing devotees telling me the Roadeo is over-stiff I respectfully disagree. I posted my second best time on Strava, which I'm pleased with, all things considered. I got after it pretty good. I think when I posted my best time I was 10lbs lighter, during my coaching days. After the descent I headed to Walnut Creek BART, but of course paid a short social visit at Riv HQ. Grant was there, and he grabbed my bike and went and rode it around. The big surprise was Manny was there. I got to meet his delightful young daughter. Grant reported that my bike rides great, and approved of my build. We chatted for a little while, and off I went. 70miles, 5300ft. Multiple compliments received on my pink bike and matching pink socks. Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CA

Re: [RBW] Ride Report--'24 Diablo Summit #3 and first big ride on RoadeoRosa

2024-03-16 Thread Richard Rose

Cool bike, great story - congrats. Question; the Roadeo is a custom bicycle frame, correct? As such, would it not be designed specifically for the rider - in this case you? If this is correct, why would it or any Roadeo be overbuilt? Unless of course you asked for it to be.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 16, 2024, at 6:20 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:This morning I rode out my front door in El Cerrito to the Summit of Mount Diablo. It was my first big ride on my new pink Roadeo, having tackled the travails of Rene Herse Cantilevers and having just set up a new pair of tubeless Rene Herse Orondo Grade tires. It was in the high 40s when I left, just before sunrise. As soon as the sun came out it warmed up quite a bit and was a beautiful breezy Spring Day. The bike was perfect, the tires were splendid. Despite the planing devotees telling me the Roadeo is over-stiff I respectfully disagree. I posted my second best time on Strava, which I'm pleased with, all things considered. I got after it pretty good. I think when I posted my best time I was 10lbs lighter, during my coaching days. After the descent I headed to Walnut Creek BART, but of course paid a short social visit at Riv HQ. Grant was there, and he grabbed my bike and went and rode it around. The big surprise was Manny was there. I got to meet his delightful young daughter. Grant reported that my bike rides great, and approved of my build. We chatted for a little while, and off I went. 70miles, 5300ft. Multiple compliments received on my pink bike and matching pink socks. Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CA

Re: [RBW] Re: Roadini Build - Mix of Modern and Retro

2024-03-16 Thread Richard Rose

Patrick, I humbly suggest that the Clem (and apparently Roadini) “liveliness & smoothness” you reference & that I can attest to is due to geometry rather than the tubing spec. As I am typing this I am recalling that Richard Sachs for a long time not only refused to use tubing stickers but did not even like to talk about tubing selections. When asked which tubes he used his frequent response was “the right ones”. This of course was prior to the “Pego Richie” tubing era. I distinctly remember my Clem L test ride, several years after selling my Sachs. In spite of the radically different position of the Clem my very first thought was “I’ve got my Sachs back”.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 15, 2024, at 9:42 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:Nice Roadini, lovely build, and I'm glad it has turned out so well for you. The Roadini certainly gets high praise from high-mileage riders.Roadini:Fargo:Cross Check: interesting observations. One might thing that with fat, low pressure tires the frame and fork won't materially affect ride smoothness, but I had a somewhat similar experience when I replaced my (2010??) steel Fargo with the current 2016 Matthews "road bike for dirt." Both take 60s with fenders, both had the same ultra-extra-light-and-supple 450-gram 60 mm Big Ones on the same Velocity Blunt SS rims, but I immediately noticed that with these wheels, the Matthews smoothed out stutter bumps and felt definitely smoother than the same wheels/tires on the Fargo. The Fargo is overbuilt of course, and the fork is hugely overbuilt, while the Matthews is built of OS but thinwall tubing with a fork that has slender, nicely "French curve" legs (discs; nope, no problems). Meandering on re: Fargo: I had a second wheelset with ~33 mm Kojaks; the Fargo handled -- well, not like a Rivendell, but decently; the 1.35 Kojaks made it quicker in turns but didn't harm stability, at least, I didn't notice it. But really, the Big Ones rolled much better on pavement than the Kojaks, decent tho' the Kojaks are.Back to the Roadini: I've been told by several people, talking about the Roadeo, when I was thinking of getting one, that it had tubing too stout and stiff for good road bike feel. And doesn't the Roadini have stouter tubing yet? So to hear such praise for the Roadini tells me, I think, that the difference between stout, stiff tubing and thinwall, normal diameter tubing is by no means the main factor in smoothness and "liveliness." Again and again, experienced riders praise the low-budget Clem for its liveliness and smoothness. And yet, that 2003 Rivendell Curt custom Road was too stiff, compared to the thinner wall, normal gauge Matthews clone that replaced it -- my quads proved it. Upshot: I don't understand all this.Long ago on the thread, Jay  wrote:The Ride: like wow!  So much to say, I'm going to forget a whole bunch of things I thought of during the 2hr ride.  I'll compare to the Surly Cross Chek I had over a year ago and my Salsa Fargo (replaced the CC, and I love it for unpaved).  Carrying the bike upstairs for the first ride, was much lighter than I thought (I have zero complaints with the weight).  Minor fit issues aside (soon to be resolved, hopefully), the ride was so smooth, maybe the smoothest bike I've ever had.   I had these tires on the Fargo up to now, and over the same surfaces the Roadini really smoothed out the cracks in the pavement, as well as the trails (I felt like I had a little suspension).  One of the reasons I initially looked at this bike as an option for a 3rd bike was that the Fargo with 43mm for winter and anytime the road bike wouldn't cut it, was not very enjoyable (harsh, squirly streeing, sluggish).  With 2.2's it is amazing and I love it on the trails where I live, but as an all-road / distance bike, I didn't enjoy it.  Enter the Roadini.  When I stood up to sprint or climb up a hill, it accelerated way better than the Fargo, and a bit better from the CC from what I recall.  I was, again, pleasantly surprised with how fast I was moving.  Cornering was predictable and neither sluggish or squirly, it just went where I wanted to go with minimal input...while holding its line predictably.  The DT shifters were fun.  A couple of times I tried to shift with the brake lever and remembered that's a different bike!  Shifting was very light touch and I quickly realized this, as I would easily shift two gears when not wanting to...by the end of the ride I felt 75% comfortable using them (and this will only improve).  Brake levers felt very good, and the braking power was also very good.  I have Ultergra R8000 brakes on my road bike and they are amazing (power and modulation).  These are a notch below, but very effective...and they easily clear 43mm tires so who needs discs?!  I love my discs on the Fargo, in mud/dirt, but the Roadini does not need discs at all (where I live/ride).  I'm so happy to have a rim brake bike that fits 43mm tires.  The bars (Whiskey 12F) and 3mm bar tape with gel pa

Re: [RBW] Re: Ron's Ortho... stem question

2024-03-11 Thread Richard Rose

For what it is worth Ron used 25.4 clamp size stems and claims & claims they work great. Got to spread that clamp I guess.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 11, 2024, at 12:09 PM, El Sapo wrote:Wish I would have understood the issues with the 26 mm handlebar clamp prior to purchasing the Ortho Bar. No megusta.The pics posted by iamKeith don’t show that his hair, beard, and hip vibe are much greater riding the bike with ortho bars.On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 7:50:27 AM UTC-7 Chris K wrote:Thank you all for the pics and advice! Very helpful.I'm putting these bars on a 1985 Trek 870. As Riv says on their cardboard geo charts "don't obsess", but geometrically this old frame is not terribly far off some Riv models, setting aside, of course, bb drop and stack (1985 Trek 870: 21.8" frame, 71º hta, 71.5º sta, 58.0 tt, 48.5 cs, 5.0 drop, 52.7 stack, 40.6 reach).My current set-up is Choco bars and an 8cm Dirt Drop. The height feels fine, just slightly above saddle height, and the reach isn't bad either but could be ~1" longer. I'm fairly upright but can lean in and grip forward as needed. I just like the idea of more width and more flare.Are these details helpful? I'm maybe leaning toward the 135mm Faceplater based on your replies, but that does seem long!On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 5:48:02 PM UTC-6 Dan wrote:I’ve got these bars lined up for my Appaloosa build. My local bike shop had a NOS Velo Orange Grand Cru stem in 120mm that looks pretty perfect. It’s 26.0, and having no rise should be slightly longer in reality than its length number suggests. I’m hoping that the wider clamp section will help it to grip the bars well too, despite the single bolt. On Monday 11 March 2024 at 03:33:24 UTC+10:30 Chris K wrote:Hey all, I've got some Ortho Bars in my cart and looking for stem advice from those who use this bar. Obv there are multiple fit and frame factors that play into something like this, but curious what people are generally going with. Here are the options I'm deciding between:- Faceplater 110mm- Faceplater 135mm- Tallux 12cmWill the 110 Faceplater be too short?

Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of replaceing the clem with the gus. Thoughts?

2024-03-11 Thread Richard Rose

Will you be selling the Clem complete or stealing some of the components for the Gus. I am pretty sure you will not regret this decision.:) If it helps; my 52 Clem has 580 wide Bosco’s with a 135mm FacePlater. I built the 57 Gus with the same Bosco but a 90mm Nitto V-5 stem. That put both handlebars in pretty much the exact same position relative to my saddle @ 72-73cm height. I have since changed the cockpit on the Gus to a Hope Cyclery “Albacore” bar paired with a 35mm Paul Boxcar. This has proved to be a better singletrack setup for me while remaining just as comfortable. I love both bikes.:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 11, 2024, at 4:19 PM, NYCbikeguy wrote:Thanks, everyone!I feel like my decision to upgrade is cemented from the mere facts that the Gus is fillet brazed (ie. stronger frame), has less tail wobble (I've noticed this on the clem, but didn't think much of it in the past), and the unique feature that this is one of the very few Riv frames that are 1 1/8 threadless. in 2019, I went 5 day tour on a Miyata 1000 to Japan, fully loaded, and have experienced the torquing of the handlebars in common nitto quill stems, as well as the torquing of the quill in the headtube. I can totally see this issue being eliminated with a threadless 1 1/8 system. I guess one of my lingering concerns is the overall length of the bike, since I'm going from a 52 clem (650b) to a 57 gus (700c). I've already had a hard time bringing the clem up the elevator to my workplace... the Gus may not even make it in there, and i'd have to resort to using the service elevator each and every time. Anyway, that's a minor concern compared to the points everyone mentioned, so that's the least of my worries. With that said, I guess my 52 Clem L in RBW blue will be going up for sale in a few weeks!I'm in the NYC tristate area. I don't plan on shipping because this is an abnormally long frame to ship.Looking forward to hearing from you all.Also, Thanks for all the help and wisdom!Best,IYOn Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 11:30:54 AM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:Bill brings up a detail I skipped over in my answer: keeping both. My Sparkle Blue Used-To-Be-Leah's Clem L is a perfect shopper/cruiser I plan to hit the trails with when this rain stops. I'd love to find a Gus for the trails but I'm not giving up my Clem! Joe Bernard On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 8:06:27 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:I say go for it! They are very different bikes, so as usual, I could justify keeping both. If I had both and was asked to get rid of one and retain the other, I could easily see myself keeping the Gus. I think the Gus would do a better job impersonating the Clem than the Clem would do impersonating Gus. Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CAOn Saturday, March 9, 2024 at 9:34:49 AM UTC-8 NYCbikeguy wrote:Regardless of the price/value of each frame, what do all of you think are the pros and cons of either bikes? overlaps vs. differences? Ultimately, which would you choose to keep?FYI, I tend to over-build my bikes and I enjoy riding them, so any comments alluding to "that's too much bike" will be disregarded. Thanks,IY

Re: [RBW] Ron's Ortho... stem question

2024-03-10 Thread Richard Rose

Chris, are you changing handlebar on an existing bike or, is this a new build? If the former & when I did a bar swap on my Gus, I was able to determine stem length with a couple of measurements. I always prefer a 4 bolt stem but as I understand it the ortho bar has an unusual clamp size?Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 10, 2024, at 1:13 PM, Brian Turner wrote:Without having the most important factors (frame, size, and what you’re currently running), I’d say going with a faceplater type stem would be a good idea because these are very wide bars, and it’s good to have a stem that will clamp down on them more securely than a single bolt quill stem.I currently have Ortho bars on my 54cm Gus, and I’m using a 110mm Nitto threadless stem with 4 bolts on the faceplate.-BrianLexington KY On Mar 10, 2024, at 1:03 PM, Chris K wrote:Hey all, I've got some Ortho Bars in my cart and looking for stem advice from those who use this bar. Obv there are multiple fit and frame factors that play into something like this, but curious what people are generally going with. Here are the options I'm deciding between:- Faceplater 110mm- Faceplater 135mm- Tallux 12cmWill the 110 Faceplater be too short?

Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of replaceing the clem with the gus. Thoughts?

2024-03-10 Thread Richard Rose

Bill’s is an interesting take & I think I agree owning both. If I had to get rid of my Clem I could get a second set of wheels for the Gus for more roadish rides. But, my Gus handlebar/stem combo is more geared to trail use & that would not be as good as my Clem setup. Here is the big caveat though; Gus is not a true step through bike. That single characteristic cannot be duplicated & is easily my favorite feature of the Clem. This may not be important to others.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 10, 2024, at 11:06 AM, Bill Lindsay wrote:I say go for it! They are very different bikes, so as usual, I could justify keeping both. If I had both and was asked to get rid of one and retain the other, I could easily see myself keeping the Gus. I think the Gus would do a better job impersonating the Clem than the Clem would do impersonating Gus. Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CAOn Saturday, March 9, 2024 at 9:34:49 AM UTC-8 NYCbikeguy wrote:Regardless of the price/value of each frame, what do all of you think are the pros and cons of either bikes? overlaps vs. differences? Ultimately, which would you choose to keep?FYI, I tend to over-build my bikes and I enjoy riding them, so any comments alluding to "that's too much bike" will be disregarded. Thanks,IY

Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of replaceing the the clem with the gus. Thoughts?

2024-03-10 Thread Richard Rose

Thanks Brian for putting my thoughts on paper - every single one of them. The 
irony is I was I really after a Susie. I was in love with the gold ones & @ 170 
lbs. was mildly attracted to the lighter weight. But they were all sold out. 
When this mermaid Gus became available I jumped. Now I love the color, the 
indestructible feeling & that front end stiffness & security.
Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 10, 2024, at 10:20 AM, Brian Turner  wrote:
> 
> I’ve never ridden a Clem, but the factors that attracted me to my Gus were:
> - 1-1/8” threadless headset: proper stiffness for off-road riding, and the 
> ability to easily swap stems and bars. Plus, I like big chunky threadless 
> stems and how securely they grip the bars. I don’t want to deal with bars 
> slipping every time I torque on the bars or hit a bump on a descent.
> - Ability to run 2.5” - 2.6” tires (because I’m running Motolites I can only 
> clear 2.5”)
> - bottom bracket clearance
> - beefier tube set
> - the weight limit thing (I’m not a heavy rider, but wanted to carry decent 
> loads for bikepacking over rough terrain without worrying if I’m pushing the 
> weight limits
> - the fillet brazed frame is gorgeous
> 
> I’m not an aggressive trail rider, and I don’t typically ride anything overly 
> technical or twisty, so for the type I trail riding I do, I find the Gus to 
> be plenty capable and extremely confident and comfortable. It’s also awfully 
> nice to ride around town too. My favorite tires that handle all the terrain I 
> ride on my Gus (paved and unpaved) are Teravail Ehlines.
> 
> Brian
> Lexington KY
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of replaceing the clem with the gus. Thoughts?

2024-03-09 Thread Richard Rose

Yes, my Clem does the same. I’ve tried a few loaded setups and balanced front / rear seems best. There is wheel flop aplenty if I load up the front. But, it really does not bother me. Gus is less sensitive to loading for sure.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 9, 2024, at 4:42 PM, Hoch in ut wrote:One thing I noticed on my Clem was with a heavy load on the rear, the tail wagged a little much for me. Due to the low step through design. I’d imagine with the Gus’ top tube being higher, the frame most likely wouldn’t flex as much. I noticed your rear rack on your Clem and thought I’d point that out. On Saturday, March 9, 2024 at 2:17:07 PM UTC-7 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:I said that wrong. What I meant to say is that Susie & Gus ride the same or at least very similarly. Riv claims they ride the same. I rode a Susie briefly - it felt the same as my Gus.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 9, 2024, at 3:09 PM, Richard Rose <rmro...@gmail.com> wrote:When I measured mine (a while ago) the bottom bracket on my 57(large) Gus was a full 2”! higher than on my 52 Clem. This single dimension makes these bikes quite different in my opinion. I love both bikes but use Gus for trail/MTB duties almost exclusively. The Clem is my bike for pretty much everything else. Having both I simply could not choose one to keep. Sophie’s Choice. I thought but cannot claim I know that Gus & Susie are more or less the same.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 9, 2024, at 1:39 PM, Johnny Alien <johnny@gmail.com> wrote:A Susie would be a pretty lateral move from a Clem (by description and such) where as a Gus would be more stout. If the Clem covers the type of riding you like than the main difference would be style/visuals IMO. Which is 100% as good a reason as any other to swap frames. I love my Clem and am often tempted by the beauty of the Susie/Gus.On Saturday, March 9, 2024 at 12:34:49 PM UTC-5 NYCbikeguy wrote:Regardless of the price/value of each frame, what do all of you think are the pros and cons of either bikes? overlaps vs. differences? Ultimately, which would you choose to keep?FYI, I tend to over-build my bikes and I enjoy riding them, so any comments alluding to "that's too much bike" will be disregarded. Thanks,IY

Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of replaceing the clem with the gus. Thoughts?

2024-03-09 Thread Richard Rose

I said that wrong. What I meant to say is that Susie & Gus ride the same or at least very similarly. Riv claims they ride the same. I rode a Susie briefly - it felt the same as my Gus.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 9, 2024, at 3:09 PM, Richard Rose wrote:When I measured mine (a while ago) the bottom bracket on my 57(large) Gus was a full 2”! higher than on my 52 Clem. This single dimension makes these bikes quite different in my opinion. I love both bikes but use Gus for trail/MTB duties almost exclusively. The Clem is my bike for pretty much everything else. Having both I simply could not choose one to keep. Sophie’s Choice. I thought but cannot claim I know that Gus & Susie are more or less the same.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 9, 2024, at 1:39 PM, Johnny Alien wrote:A Susie would be a pretty lateral move from a Clem (by description and such) where as a Gus would be more stout. If the Clem covers the type of riding you like than the main difference would be style/visuals IMO. Which is 100% as good a reason as any other to swap frames. I love my Clem and am often tempted by the beauty of the Susie/Gus.On Saturday, March 9, 2024 at 12:34:49 PM UTC-5 NYCbikeguy wrote:Regardless of the price/value of each frame, what do all of you think are the pros and cons of either bikes? overlaps vs. differences? Ultimately, which would you choose to keep?FYI, I tend to over-build my bikes and I enjoy riding them, so any comments alluding to "that's too much bike" will be disregarded. Thanks,IY

Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of replaceing the clem with the gus. Thoughts?

2024-03-09 Thread Richard Rose

When I measured mine (a while ago) the bottom bracket on my 57(large) Gus was a full 2”! higher than on my 52 Clem. This single dimension makes these bikes quite different in my opinion. I love both bikes but use Gus for trail/MTB duties almost exclusively. The Clem is my bike for pretty much everything else. Having both I simply could not choose one to keep. Sophie’s Choice. I thought but cannot claim I know that Gus & Susie are more or less the same.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 9, 2024, at 1:39 PM, Johnny Alien wrote:A Susie would be a pretty lateral move from a Clem (by description and such) where as a Gus would be more stout. If the Clem covers the type of riding you like than the main difference would be style/visuals IMO. Which is 100% as good a reason as any other to swap frames. I love my Clem and am often tempted by the beauty of the Susie/Gus.On Saturday, March 9, 2024 at 12:34:49 PM UTC-5 NYCbikeguy wrote:Regardless of the price/value of each frame, what do all of you think are the pros and cons of either bikes? overlaps vs. differences? Ultimately, which would you choose to keep?FYI, I tend to over-build my bikes and I enjoy riding them, so any comments alluding to "that's too much bike" will be disregarded. Thanks,IY

Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone else not a fan of the very long chainstays?

2024-03-08 Thread Richard Rose

Well, the larger volume tires are definitely part of the ride quality equation. If they are “bouncy” the pressure is too high.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 8, 2024, at 8:50 AM, Chris Halasz wrote:I'll chime in that while the very long (54cm?) chainstays on some of the frames introduce some storage concerns, they (the Platypus, for instance) ride very, very nicely. That said, I dislike the common (what, 41cm?) short chainstays far more than I dislike the extended variety. My chainstay sweet spot compromise may be more like 46cm, but I find myself drawn to even longer. What I haven't yet come to appreciate are large tires for road use, say, anything over 35mm. The longer chainstay bikes, to me, start to look nervous with narrower tires. I really like the looks of the Clem H, though. Maybe there's more learning for me to appreciate the wider, heavier, bouncier tread. But that's another topic. - Chris On Thursday, March 7, 2024 at 8:30:45 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:Ian thinks "there's a heaping good portion of "I got mine" in your perspective." You are allowed to think whatever you like about me and my motives. Are you in the market for a new (to you) bike now? What is your build concept?Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CA On Thursday, March 7, 2024 at 4:02:18 PM UTC-8 ian m wrote:On Thursday, March 7, 2024 at 12:26:11 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:All those wanting Rivendell to re-release bikes they made 10 years ago do NOT have to turn in their Riv card, but they ARE outing themselves as PAWNS of the T&D IC. Resist the pressures of the Time and Date Industrial Complex! BL I feel like I understand where you're coming from in this thread and largely I don't disagree with much of what you're saying but I think there's a heaping good portion of "I got mine" in your perspective. Yes, I do have whatever the reverse of FOMO is when it comes to Riv bikes (Sad I Missed Out, SIMO?). I learned about Riv circa the late aughts while working at Amoeba in Berkeley and riding my POS fixed gear bike (with Wald 808 bars and front basket) everywhere. Dreamt of virtually every model at the time, all of which were firmly out of reach with a record store employee paycheck. Had I been able to afford a couple twos threes of their bikes at the time I'd probably be hang up free about their current designs. But I think we all want what we can't have, and (for a terrible comparison) I lament plenty of other unfortunate changes like the reality of modern pickup trucks as opposed to my first two, the Datsun 720 and Toyota 22RE. Change may be constant but it's not always beneficial

Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone else not a fan of the very long chainstays?

2024-03-07 Thread Richard Rose

If I stay seated & spin (long stays) I do not spin out on steep / slightly rocky climbs. Stand up & you are done. I never stand.:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 7, 2024, at 6:12 PM, Hoch in ut  wrote:Keith, I’m assuming you’re in the western Wyoming area? I actually bought a Jabberwocky back in 2010 or so. To test out the Wet Cat geo. Bike rode nice but it wasn’t for me. Ironically, I thought it excelled on the descents. Climbing, due to the long chainstays, did not fare so well. Note that the Jabberwocky was SS only (unless you got the geared hanger from them). Standing and climbing steep trails meant constant spin out. I think had I built a Bandersbatch, it would’ve performed better. I’m trying to remember the chainstay length. Wasn’t it close to 18”? On Thursday, March 7, 2024 at 3:49:11 PM UTC-7 iamkeith wrote:I'm beating a dead horse here, drifting off-topic, and not really even answering questions that anyone has asked - but adding this excerpt for thread posterity in case I want to find it again.  I referred to Vassago's ill-fated attempt to popularize long chainstays in my first post, but this is a better web archive reference and the one I was thinking of.  It would have had a picture of a hill climb competition motorcycle, and includes their explanation, at the bottom, of why  THEY chose to do it - which was prioritizing climbing.  That's why it has always stuck with me.  I'm not far from Hoch and Utah and that kind of rockier trail riding, but Vassago's explanation really jives with my own reality.  EVERY SINGLE RIDE here, in the mountains of wyoming (where we live at the bottom of the valleys and go UP only to recreate), begins with a long, steep climb in thin mountain air that accounts for 3/4 or more of the total ride duration.https://web.archive.org/web/20100724060927/http://www.vassagocycles.com/wetcat-geometry/THE ORIGINAL Vassago WetCat GeometryThe controversial 29er geometry approach that we were scorned for back in '05 seams to be more and more common as we enter 2010. We are OK with that because it means big wheels have come into their own, and the bigger companies are catching on. We stand by our WetCat design and haven't changed a thing. Here's the pitch from "back in the day".When refining our exclusive WetCat Geometry, We peed in the eye of tradition and ignored the number-obsessed skeptics.Our long wheelbases, steep seat tubes and slack head tubes made us true blasphemers in the frame design world. As the critics baulked, we honed our angles and tube diameters, to fully utilized the big wheels we are so faithful to.Now, with so many podium finishes under our belt, and a legion of happy Vassago riders, we confidently say;29ers should NOT try to handle like a 26" bike..They're 29ers.29 inch wheels are the Cat's Pajamas.Long chainstays are the Bee's Knees.It's all about the rider's balance in relation to the wheels, not just numbers on paper.Slack doesn't have to mean slow.1996 Norba geometry theory dose not apply to 29ersThe Easter Bunny and Santy Claus are the same guy.So what can WetCat do for you?ClimbingClimb the nastiest technical sections like a wet cat climbs the drapes a grandma's house. (what you never did that?)Traction to spare, and a neutralized rider position will have you cleaning sections you never expected, and have your buddies buyin' you rounds when the pedalin's done.DescendingStability is your best friend when speed is what you're looking for. The centrifugal force of fast spinning big hoops and the long, steel frame offer confidence to rival a full squishy bike at speed.Comfort9 to 5 is just plain wrong. For those of you who's therapy is an nice epic ride on a Sunday morning, we have your prescription. Between the balanced geometry and the unrivaled ridability of steel, a vassago will keep you cumfy in the saddle as long as your legs can keep pushing.BalanceWhere it all comes together. Our unique frame geometries all work together to provide a perfectly balanced 29er that feels like no other 29er you've ridden.Forget the many tallish, slow handling 29ers that are becoming all to common. We center the riders weight between the wheel centers for a distinctive feel of riding IN the bike, not ON TOP of big tall wheels.Test ride a Vassago and then test ride anything else with twice the price tag. You'll see what we mean. A word about chainstays.Generally speaking, we have noticed the media and thus the general opinion is that the shorter the chainstays, the better. Like we have said all along, our dedicated approach to designing 29ers tells us this is bullocks. While short stays are great on a 26" bike and enhance the characteristics of that type of bike, our bikes are built to climb. Since most of your time, blood, sweat and tears involved in a day long epic are spent climbing, we focus on that.The WetCat geometry further enhance the climbing benefits of the 29" wheels by aligning the rider's COG (center of gravity) inside the rear axle line when on a steep accent.To us

Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone else not a fan of the very long chainstays?

2024-03-07 Thread Richard Rose

I think Riv are pretty transparent about their intentions with the Gus/Susie bikes. They came up with “Hillibike” to differentiate from true (modern) mountain bikes. I too had a Jones 29 - not the spaceframe - a Diamond frame with Unicrown fork. Its modern equivalent is a Jones SWB. It was indeed a very fun, capable & versatile bike. For various reasons - some legit, some not - I decided I needed full suspension. I got this Ibis Mojo3, 27.5+ bike. On the trails I frequent, with lots of roots, some rocks, some switchbacks & generally pretty rowdy - but nothing like Utah - I was faster on the Ibis. But, I was not very comfortable. Because I had the Ibis I sold the Jones. I bought my Clem L to take its place as my everything except mountain biking duties. The Clem was transformational comfort wise. And, it is indeed capable & fun on mild trails. It convinced me I needed a Gus. I find the Gus & Clem similar but very different. The higher bottom bracket, stiffer frame & 29’er wheels make it a singletrack delight. Slower & less nimble than the Jones or Ibis? Probably. But I just don’t care. It’s just such a blast & oh so comfortable. The first time I did a serious trail on it (35 miles!) I called Riv to share my enthusiasm. Will answered. I told him they (Riv) could call their bikes anything they wanted to but it (my Gus) is a mountain bike!The transparency part is this; Riv does not endorse the thought that anything you can walk you should be able to ride. As I near 70 years of age, I endorse that notion. If I cannot clear a section on the Gus, I probably should not be doing it anyway!:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 7, 2024, at 9:08 AM, Hoch in ut wrote:I should have clarified. I have never ridden a Jone LWB. I owned the original Jones 29 spaceframe for a number of years. That was a fun bike. I was referring to the Clem. I understand it’s a “Hillibike,” not a mountain bike, in the modern world term of that word. Still, Riv markets it to be used on “trails.” Which is a fairly loose term. The trails in the Bay Area, which I’ve never ridden, seem to be well-manicured. Mostly smooth dirt single track, from what I’ve seen. We have some of that here in Utah but most, if not all trails require some tight turns, riding through rock gardens, and technical sections. Whooptie doos are common as well. All of these sections proved to be a problem for the Clem. Yes, I could take on more of the ATB mentality and get off and walk those sections. Which I’ve done plenty of times on my modern mountain bike (which is a Vassago! Single speed, rigid fork). But why walk when you can ride? I easily ride through those sections on shorter wheelbase bikes. Not fun. For me. All this to say, it depends where you live which may dictate what type of trails you ride. Smooth dirt roads and MUP’s, it’s a nice bike for that. Not so much for what I’m after. This isn’t a knock against the LWB. I’m glad some companies are looking at the design from different angles. Hopefully they’ll continue to innovate. Having said that, for me, and I’m sure a sizable number of Riv enthusiasts, I wish they’d give us an option of a SWB hillibike. Clem and Wolbis are almost identical. And a lot of overlap with the Atlantis, really. Will said the front ends are pretty much the same. Give us a SWB with 2.4” tire clearance.That would be a fun bike. And look better, too :) 😁On Thursday, March 7, 2024 at 12:11:06 AM UTC-7 iamkeith wrote:Hoch, when you say you "got hung up," did you mean when riding a Jones LWB, or a Clem or other Rivendell model? Your post brings up some thoughts.Like Tim, I got an early Clem, thinking it would be an updated, proper-fitting version of an analog 80s or 90s mountain bike - because that's how it was initially concieved and described by Grant. But I admittedly struggled on trails, just as you describe. So it kind of morphed into something else, for other kinds of riding. Then I got rid of it to get a Susie. It wasn't until then that I realized how much I loved that Clem and NEEDED a bike like that. I was lucky to get it back. Different tools for different tasks. But along the lines of Bill's comments, Riv likely does not care about the kind of riding or task you're talking about: Conquering slickrock trails, big "drops," riding through scree fields (rock gardens) rather than carrying your bike over them,. I think Riv makes it pretty clear that tgey don't subscribe to the mainstream sports marketing view that wild places are our playground, so they don't feel the need to produce that particular tool.If you were talking about the LWB, the interesting thing about Jones' bikes was that, originally, he was the first to really figure out how to make a 29er ride like a 26er (because, in the early days of 29ers, that's what people thought bikes should ride like, but not like we remember. Every bike on the market prior to time was basically a geometric clone of every other bike. Jones basically simulated that by cramming the big whee

Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone else not a fan of the very long chainstays?

2024-03-07 Thread Richard Rose

You don’t know you “need” it until you’ve lived with it.:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 7, 2024, at 1:36 AM, Mike Godwin  wrote:Eric D asked what model Treks.  Good question, as I just walked in on the sout side of the store and exited on the north side. The bikes are lined up in the 2-stack wall-mounted stands. Flat bars, sloping top tube, tall headtube, flat black with large diameter tubes, disc brakes, nothing I am going to do a double take on, for sure. But since the shop is on the other side of town and it is fun to look at the Paramount, and Cinelli, and Colnago in there, might as well take a gander at the long chainstay bikes. I can always ask about the mt bike rentals too. FYI, Foothill Cycles on Foothill in SLO towards the campus side of town. Mike SLO CA. On Wednesday, March 6, 2024 at 10:20:36 AM UTC-8 Eric Daume wrote:What Treks did you see? Looking at their website, I don't see anything that long, outside their Electra cruisers. Trek has a LOT of models though, so it's easy to overlook something.EricOn Wed, Mar 6, 2024 at 12:50 PM Mike Godwin  wrote:Went to my LBS looking for a bike box, and there is one wall with new long-chain stay-wheelbase Treks ready to ride out the door. I figured someone would copy Riv sooner or later. People have been copying Riv since late in the last century, much like folks are copying RH tires since about 2010. I guess they know a good thing when they ride it.Mike SLO CA On Tuesday, March 5, 2024 at 4:40:42 PM UTC-8 Garth wrote:People do lament about modern frame/parts design Bill, and they do it @Bikeforums.net in mostly the classic & vintage section :) All vintage makes and models are talked about and bought and sold and very much prized/appreciated. It is by far the most active section of BF. There's a couple of members who regularly post .pdf scans of old cycling publications like Bicycling! magazine of most any bike that was reviewed at the time. Not just bikes of course but all the vintage parts too from how they work to how to tear down and repair them. It's a very diverse community that has the same polarizing topics as any other places, but it's broken down into vary sections to make it easier to post and find posts. Lots of riders who love anything "new" and lots that don't. The demand and use for all kinds of bikes and parts Worlwide is far beyond anyone's means or abilities to count. Andel, likely the largest crank manufacturer in the World, has lots of traditional doubles and triples and they manufacture Riv's cranks for them. As for the megastays, it is what it is. There's a whole lotta frames and makers to choose from. Thankfully there are other people/businesses interested in having steel frames(stock and custom), friction shifters and non-disc hubs made so there's very little if anything I shop @Riv for. On Tuesday, March 5, 2024 at 1:13:52 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:I promise you that Rivendell is flattered that nice people gather themselves to complain about the former-models that Riv no longer makes.  It shows a love for Rivendell that most other bike brands don't get.  There's no Specialized google group where current Specialized fans are griping about Rockhoppers and Sequoias.  All those nostalgic cyclists have bailed on Specialized entirely.  What Rivendell does, and has always done, is build the bikes they want to exist.  If you like one and want to buy it, great.  If you don't like any of them and buy something else, that's also great.  They (Riv) does not care about making money, except to the extent they can keep the lights on and pay their people a modest living wage.  They do not care about growth.  Actually, they probably have made up their minds that they can't grow.  They know exactly how many bikes they can afford to sell, and they plan out making that many bikes.  That very limited number of bikes is always going to be "whatever they feel like making".  They count on the fact that somebody is going to buy them, and it usually works out for them.  The bikes they feel like making are bikes that don't exist anywhere else and/or have never been made before.  When they made the Saluki circa 2007, bikes like the Saluki didn't exist.  Today, bikes like the Saluki do exist, so Riv doesn't have to make them.  The fact that some Riv-fans are nostalgic for former models is touching, but they don't make nostalgia models. If you want a short wheelbase Rivendell, buy a Crust, ride the heck out of it, and be happy.  That's what Riv would tell you.  The Roaduno is the classic, IMO.  They love the idea of a purpose built 3x1 road bike.  Nobody...not a single person on earth is pounding on their keyboard complaining that it's hard to find a purpose built 3x1 road bike.  There is NO demand for it, but Riv is making it anyway, because they feel like it.  If you buy it, great.  If you don't, they hope you find something else that you do want to buy.  It's perfectly logical for you nostalgic Riv-fans to gripe "they couldve taken that R

Re: [RBW] Re: Building a Quickbeam and wondering...

2024-03-05 Thread Richard Rose

Bill, your description of the landscape near your Michigan office is even more true of northwest Ohio, Toledo more precisely. It’s this geography that has me thinking a Roaduno might be fun, be it 1,2 or 3 speed.Richard - in Toledo where the only “hill” is a stiff headwind.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 5, 2024, at 6:27 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:Fair enough. On the simpler side I have a fixie at my office in Michigan, where the biggest hill is a freeway overpass. On that bike (Crust Florida Man) I run a Campy square taper road crank with a 39T ring and a chain guard with a 16T fixed cog on a Surly Ultra New rear hub. There's a 16T freewheel on the other side but I've never used it. Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CAOn Tuesday, March 5, 2024 at 1:06:32 PM UTC-8 David wrote:Very creative. Personally looking for simpler, streamlined inspiration, but these are nice options you're running.On Tuesday, March 5, 2024 at 12:26:11 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:I run a Riv Silver triple with 40/37/34 chainrings on my Quickbeam. I modified a rare and unusual Shimano cassette hub to fit 120 OLD. On that I run three Problem Solvers cassette cogs at 16/19/22. As a result I have three single speed "gears" with three chain positions, all with the same wheel position34x22 is my climbing gear37x19 is my mellow cruising town gear40x16 is my high gearBill LindsayEl Cerrito, CAOn Tuesday, March 5, 2024 at 12:21:08 PM UTC-8 David wrote:What are your drivetrain specs? Cranks, chainrings, etc. Simpleones, too, if that's what you're riding. It appears Riv doesn't offer the classic single speed crankset anymore.

Re: [RBW] Box Size for 59 Clem

2024-03-05 Thread Richard Rose

Sorry, I see you are moving. Must be a complete.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 5, 2024, at 8:14 AM, Isaac Martin  wrote:Does anybody happen to have a box that a 59 clem or 60 platypus or similar length bike was shipped in? Would you be so kind to measure it for me?I need to source a box to move and don't want to get too large as I will be paying by volume, and will obviously need one long enough to fit the bike.Thanks!



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Re: [RBW] Box Size for 59 Clem

2024-03-05 Thread Richard Rose

Frame set or complete? This is the box my 57 Gus frame/fork came in. I feel certain a 59 would fit - there was ample room.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 5, 2024, at 8:14 AM, Isaac Martin  wrote:Does anybody happen to have a box that a 59 clem or 60 platypus or similar length bike was shipped in? Would you be so kind to measure it for me?I need to source a box to move and don't want to get too large as I will be paying by volume, and will obviously need one long enough to fit the bike.Thanks!



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Re: [RBW] Re: Hub recommendations for Velocity Cliffhangers

2024-03-05 Thread Richard Rose

Rear Cliffhanger on my Gus is built with this Bitex hub. It’s been very good for the first 2k miles.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 4, 2024, at 1:24 PM, Johnny Alien wrote:I find the Analog review of the Bitex hub to be very accurate. They are very close to the WI hubs at a small fraction of the cost. Amazing at quality and price but with zero hyper around them.On Monday, March 4, 2024 at 11:43:54 AM UTC-5 gril...@gmail.com wrote:My Appaloosa is being built up with a Bitex rear touring hub. Wheels are being built up this week - I'll report back once they (and the bike) are ready!On Sunday 3 March 2024 at 09:56:15 UTC+10:30 Josh C wrote:I'd recommend a set of white industries hubs if you are looking for something more high-end. Smoothest hubs I've seen. On Saturday, March 2, 2024 at 6:04:12 PM UTC-5 Luke Hendrickson wrote:I second Deore LX! I had those front & rear until I laced up a front wheel with a Kasai FS dynamo hub.On Saturday, March 2, 2024 at 2:11:58 PM UTC-8 aeroperf wrote:I like the Deore LX trekking equipment. A rear hub would be FH-T670.Quiet and bulletproof. I’ve laced them to Velocity Atlas and Velocity Dyads.For a front hub, I tend to use Shimano 105s because they are reliable and reasonably cheap.

Re: [RBW] Large orange HubbuHubbuh For Sale

2024-03-04 Thread Richard Rose

What size riders did/does this fit?Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 4, 2024, at 9:02 AM, Julian Westerhout wrote:For Sale: Large Rivendell HubbuHubbuH tandem. Orange.

Built up with Shimano Deore deraillers and V-brakes, plus rear disk brake set up as a drag brake controlled by stoker. Shifters are Suntour power ratchet. Bullmoose Boscos up front, Boscos with the limited edition V-stoker stem in the back. Portuguese cork grips. SP dynamo front hub, Deore rear — Rich Lesnick built wheels with Maxxis tires and V-O fenders. Front and rear lights. Nitto large front rack and Wald basket. Bike currently has sprung Brooks saddles front and rear (not the B-17 up front in the photo).

I am not selling the bags in the photo, and the bike will come with two sets of VP flat pedals (the ones on the front).

This is a very nice build, and in very clean condition. We like the bike, but have 4 (!) tandems and limited space, and this one gets the least use, so needs to go.

I’m in central Illinois, and could meet folks within an couple of hours, and will be driving east to Maryland March 11 via Indianapolis, Columbus, Morgantown, WV etc. and will be returning via Philadelphia (will be at the Philly Bike) on March 16 and could meet someone on or near that route as well if a deal is reached quickly. Can include a Thule or Yakima rooftop rack attachment as an extra if needed.

More photos on request.

$2800

Julian Westerhout
Bloomington, IL

Re: [RBW] Susie Lugged Vs. Susie Fillet Brazed

2024-03-03 Thread Richard Rose

As a Gus owner I cannot believe there would be any noticeable difference. I think the bottom bracket difference is 5mm? Riv says no difference & they also said there was no ride difference between the original Gus/Susie. Splitting hairs?Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 2, 2024, at 1:56 PM, Tommy Love  wrote:Has anyone here who already owns a fillet brazed Susie Longbolts test ride the new lugged Susie Longbolts?  Curious if the ride is noticeably different with the lower BB.  Not saying I'm gonna buy one, but I do like the colors and the lug detail.  Here's my Susie, cruising it like a 1936 Harley Knucklehead.Tommy Socal



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Re: [RBW] Re: Roaduno and the state of single speed bikes

2024-03-02 Thread Richard Rose

A couple of interesting(?) Roaduno tidbits in yesterday’s blog. Sounds like a distinct possibility that the complete will come with the new Silver 3 crank. And the bit about the head badge goof has me planning to paint the “window”, should I be lucky enough to get one. Not going to happen if I am unable to sell my Ibis.:(Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 16, 2024, at 8:05 PM, Richard Rose wrote:Per today’s e mail update - Roaduno completes due in May, not April. Not sure if that includes the non completes.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 7, 2024, at 1:03 PM, Berkeleyan wrote:"
I have a threaded through-axle with big heavy 17mm nuts, front and back.
And I carry a Park bottle opener with 17mm socket on the end to remove
the wheels."Er, make that 15mm... I was thinking of motorcycle parts at the same time.- Andrew

Re: [RBW] Re: Crankset/BB question

2024-03-02 Thread Richard Rose

I was thinking the very same.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 2, 2024, at 12:16 AM, Josiah Anderson wrote:It's hard to say for sure from the picture, but it looks like your fd is at a bit of an angle, and rotating it to straight might allow a bit more crankarm clearance.Josiah AndersonMissoula MT Le ven. 1 mars 2024 à 7:33 PM, Adam a écrit :Thanks all for the help.I got the VO cranks a week or so ago, and today finally had time to install them. The process was smooth, easy so far. No issues with the current BB, which I forgot to measure, but assume is either 113 or 115, based on the previous cranks. I don't think the picture below captures it well, but the 46 ring lines up just inside the middle of the cassette.I don't think the FD is going to work--it currently rubs the chain in the lower two sprockets on the cassette, BUT if I move it out so that it doesn't rub it hits the crank arm. Not sure the solution there? Do I need a different derailer? I'm assuming so, recommendations? I really may just pull it and go "manual" for now, since the 30 is more wishful thinking than part of regular rides around here.Any other thoughts?AdamOn Saturday, February 24, 2024 at 10:47:54 AM UTC-6 krisbu...@gmail.com wrote:AdamI have the VO 50.4 bcd cranks on my Saluki and a 118mm bb was actually too short. I had to use a 122.5 and even that was pretty tight.-KrisOn Saturday, February 17, 2024 at 10:01:33 PM UTC-6 Bikie#4646 wrote:Adam,I meant to add that prices on digital micrometers seem to have gone down over time. I replaced my old "analog" PITA micrometer on Amazon for twenty-five bucks. I would not go for the cheapest though. I opted for one with an auto "OFF" setting so you won't burn the battery out when you set it down and forget it.Paul GermainMidlothian, Va.On Saturday, February 17, 2024 at 10:55:25 PM UTC-5 Bikie#4646 wrote:Adam,Just saying . If you like the paint job on your bike, be mindful when applying muscle to the BB remover tool. You'll be using a heavy-ish adjustable wrench. So, adjust it so it's snug. It's pretty easy to have that tool come out and the wrench can chip the vulnerable BB shell paint edge. Ask me how I know.Paul GermainMidlothian, Va.On Friday, February 16, 2024 at 1:07:21 PM UTC-5 Adam wrote:Hi all,A while back I posted about low q, low-range cranks for my Hillborne.I just ordered one of the VO 46/30s, which seems like a good option at the price. I'll use the stock rings first, then tweak them down the road.A few questions - I'm going to try the install myself--I think--and this is my first attempt.I understand that the VO 46/30 is supposed to be paired with a 118mm BB. I have read on here of folks using shorter spindles. I currently have either a 113 or 115mm on the Hillborne. I'm assuming the only way to know is to remove the cranks and measure? Has anyone here tried a shorter spindle on their Hillborne with the VO cranks?My question - Should I try simply swapping cranks and see how the VO cranks do at 115/113mm? If so, what would I be watching for to suggest a problem? OR is this a dumb way to start tinkering with cranks? And if so, any thoughts on swapping BB vs taking it a shop? (I have great shops nearby, but like to gradually learn a few things every so often.)Thanks!Adam

Re: [RBW] New bike decision (help!)

2024-02-25 Thread Richard Rose

Patrick, my Jones was a “Jones 29”. This was the Jones “29’er” and came just before the “Jones Plus” bikes, be it LWB or SWB. Mine was a 130 spaced frame front & rear. It was a Diamond frame (not spaceframe) with a unicrown fork (not truss). Quick release axles and a very tight wheelbase. The current Jones SWB is the direct descendant of the Jones 29. I ran this bike with a 29” x 3” tire up front. It could actually take a 26” x 4.5” fatbike wheel! 29” x 2.6” was the most I could fit in the back. If memory serves it had a 73mm bb shell & I had no issues as far as q-factor. I am actually rather sensitive to wide Q & had to sell my fatbike due to it. Maybe the newer boost bikes have a wider Q, not sure.Anyway it was a fantastic mountain bike. It was pretty good at most everything else as well. I had a second set of wheels with 2.25” smoothish tires for commuting / road duties. I never thought I would sell it.But, I got the full suspension bug. And then I got the chance to ride a Clem & bought it - from the same guy who sold me the Jones! I was smitten immediately with the long stays & upright position of the Clem. I loved it so much I just had to get a Gus which has replaced the full suspension bike as my mountain bike. It (Gus) is every bit as capable as the Jones on singletrack - just more comfortable.:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 24, 2024, at 11:29 PM, Patrick Moore wrote:This is very interesting; I thought all Riv models except the various road models were "country bikes" but to hear the Gus compared to a Jones would seem to be high praise, from what I read about the Jones (it's one of Bike Snob's keepers in his current bike purge).I just gave away my sole mountain bike -- the much modified Monocog 29er -- in favor of a fatter-tire second wheelset for my Matthews "road bike for dirt," but I'll have to consider a Gus if I ever decide to get another mtb. Question: Can you get a =/< 160 mm Q with a Gus? What kept me from getting a Jones was the >160 mm Q.Patrick Moore, also closing in very rapidly on 69, in ABQ, NM.On Sat, Feb 24, 2024 at 1:57 PM Richard Rose <rmros...@gmail.com> wrote:I’ve not ridden a Platypus but I’ve yet to hear it described as a trail bike. Love, love, love my Clem on & off road but if things get dicey it’s a bit overwhelmed with the lower bottom bracket - compared to my Gus. The Gus or the new Susie (get one! Run do not walk!) are singletrack machines. Yes they are good for other duties as well but are conceived & built to be mountain bikes. I am blown away by it on rough, rooty & slightly rocky singletrack. It is every bit the mountain bike that a Jones is (I had one) which is of course highly regarded in that category. I’ve yet to experience a pedal strike on the Gus. I’ve had quite a few on the Clem. And I am pretty decent at avoiding them if I do say so. So, IMHO if what you are looking for is a singletrack bike get the new Susie or try to find a leftover one/Gus.FWIW, I am closing on 69 years old & have ditched my full suspension bike in favor of the Gus. As you allude to, I am a bit less aggressive on the Gus vs. the Ibis. I think that’s is smarter at my age. No less fun though.:)Sent from my iPhone

Re: [RBW] Re: Gus /Susie bottom bracket -which one?

2024-02-25 Thread Richard Rose

Oops! Shimano bottom brackets, not Nitto!Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 24, 2024, at 6:26 PM, Richard Rose wrote:This issue (crank arm proper clearance) befuddles me also. With the Riv supplied Nitto brackets on both my Clem & Gus I have HUGE clearance. Small ring has plenty also. Clearly I could use a shorter spindle. Perhaps there is an issue with tire rub on these bikes? Running 55mm tires on Clem, 2.6” on Gus.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 24, 2024, at 11:48 AM, Patrick Moore wrote:It's good to know that these SL bbs are recommended by a knowledgeable professional -- well, since Peter carries them, that is probably recommendation in itself. I ordered one myself yesterday, a 127 mm to try to skim off a few mm of the Q on my Matthews "road bike for dirt" -- with the current 130 mm Phil there are about 3 mm of unused airspace between the inside of the left arm and the outside of the stay. Must also try that NOS 125 mm SunTour Greaseguard bb, but I fear that even with right arm skimming the stay on its side -- as it is with proper chainline -- the left arm will still rub.May soon have a NOS/NIB ST GG bb bearing assembly for sale Alas, the 127s are available only with plastic cups, but iboblist scuttlebutt says that they hold up fine, and Peter said he could not recall ever having problems with them. Still, I'd have preferred metal for aesthetic, philosophical, and moral reasons.On Sat, Feb 24, 2024 at 7:48 AM Richard Rose <rmros...@gmail.com> wrote:Good Morning! Attached here is a pic from Peter White website. BTW, I called, Peter answered & after a nice conversation I ordered over the phone. It arrived in two days. Nice transaction for sure. Also, these bottom brackets came highly recommended by Analog Cycles - good enough for me.:)The Shimano bb that I replaced was a 118, this Stronglight is 119. I ordered the more expensive one with the aluminum vs. plastic cups. Still just $50.00! And you are correct, I did not change anything else.

Re: [RBW] Re: New bike decision (help!)

2024-02-24 Thread Richard Rose

What am I missing? Aren’t the Susie’s available right now? I mean, I know they are not here yet but at least they have not sold out. Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 24, 2024, at 9:12 PM, Tim Bantham wrote:Based on what you have described I would continue to ride your Krampus as you wait for the Susie's to become available. My past Riv's that I have personally owned have been an Appaloosa and a Clem H. Those bikes are no longer in my stable. Between the two I enjoyed riding the Appaloosa off road more so then the Clem H. I build the Clem H as a purpose build analog mountain bike. I had a very nice build sparing no expense and I hated that bike. Part of the problem is that I wanted the bike to more then it was capable of. I live on the east coast where the terrain is rocky and rooted. There is a lot of stuff that you have to get off and walk with a fully rigged bike, The Clem was too long and unwieldy. Riding it was a chore in woods. The long chain stays were more of a bug than a feature. To be clear this was the Clem H which Riv no longer makes. Maybe the Clem L is better. I am only sharing my opinion based on the Clem H. On the other hand the Appaloosa was set up as my dirt road touring bike. I can share one experience when I was riding with friends who were all on full suspension mountain bikes and/or hardtails and I had no difficulty keeping up. The terrain on this particular set of trails was fast and flowy and not rocky/rooted . The Clem H would have been more cumbersome in that same situation. I currently have a modern all carbon full suspension mountain bike that easily handles the trails near me. Problem is that I don't ride it enough so it is currently up for sale. That bike is not easy to live with either. The suspension is something that I can't service myself, it has hydraulic disc brakes which I consider to be fiddly. AND I really don't like driving my bike in the car to get to the trailhead. The Rivs that I currently own are a Platypus that I just finished building up this month, An A. Homer Hilsen that is currently in my work stand and my beloved Sam Hilborne. I've only ridden the Platy about 40 miles so far but I love this bike! That said, I won't love riding the Platypus off road. In my opinion its just not the right bike for that. I personally would be much more comfortable on the Sam. The Homer will be strictly used as my road bike. Keep riding the Surly that you own. Wait for the Susie and make a decision at that point. I would hesitate to rush into anything else just because they are currently available. Hope that helps. On Saturday, February 24, 2024 at 7:51:43 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:The riding you're describing says Susie but - as you say - the Clem L will handle most of it. I don't need lugs either and I love my L (haven't ridden it on trails yet but will), I think this is the way unless you're super into the looks/color of Susie. Also Clem L means cheaper and no waiting! On Saturday, February 24, 2024 at 8:51:21 AM UTC-8 Gregger wrote:Long time listener, first time caller. It's a bit hard to tell if you lovely folks on this forum enjoy or loathe these "help me pick a bike" posts - there are a lot of them - but I really would greatly appreciate your input on my situation. I bought a Leo Roadini a while back (my first Riv) and love it for pavement and gravel roads. I now want to look into a trail bike for everything from dirt paths to midwestern single track (grounded and cautious - I'm 62 years).So, I'm torn between a Platypus (love the aesthetics) and a Clem L (the ride experience is evidently sublime?). Or should I wait for the new stouter Susie to arrive (did I mention I weigh 205 lbs?). I only ride for exercise a couple of hours a day, so no lugging weight on racks or bags . . . would I overwhelm the Platypus frame in the woods? Would the Clem have the ground clearance for roots and rocks? Obviously the Susie would be the safe and conservative choice, but I'm not a very patient person (this May? Any guarantees?), and I really do love the purple Platypus available currently. The Clem L would offer a slightly larger tire clearance, and the low(ish) bottom bracket height would likely be sufficient 94.3 % of the time; and tig welds are just fine with me (sorry for the hurt feelings).Or, a forth option - to be truly difficult, should I keep riding my Surly Krampus in the woods and continue to risk wiping out and injuring myself - it just demands to be ridden with abandon, and I scare myself. That's my problem I guess, not the bike's.Thank you so much in advance. I know I've probably left out relevant information, but I've tried to keep this somewhat short. Fail.

Re: [RBW] Re: Gus /Susie bottom bracket -which one?

2024-02-24 Thread Richard Rose

This issue (crank arm proper clearance) befuddles me also. With the Riv supplied Nitto brackets on both my Clem & Gus I have HUGE clearance. Small ring has plenty also. Clearly I could use a shorter spindle. Perhaps there is an issue with tire rub on these bikes? Running 55mm tires on Clem, 2.6” on Gus.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 24, 2024, at 11:48 AM, Patrick Moore wrote:It's good to know that these SL bbs are recommended by a knowledgeable professional -- well, since Peter carries them, that is probably recommendation in itself. I ordered one myself yesterday, a 127 mm to try to skim off a few mm of the Q on my Matthews "road bike for dirt" -- with the current 130 mm Phil there are about 3 mm of unused airspace between the inside of the left arm and the outside of the stay. Must also try that NOS 125 mm SunTour Greaseguard bb, but I fear that even with right arm skimming the stay on its side -- as it is with proper chainline -- the left arm will still rub.May soon have a NOS/NIB ST GG bb bearing assembly for sale Alas, the 127s are available only with plastic cups, but iboblist scuttlebutt says that they hold up fine, and Peter said he could not recall ever having problems with them. Still, I'd have preferred metal for aesthetic, philosophical, and moral reasons.On Sat, Feb 24, 2024 at 7:48 AM Richard Rose <rmros...@gmail.com> wrote:Good Morning! Attached here is a pic from Peter White website. BTW, I called, Peter answered & after a nice conversation I ordered over the phone. It arrived in two days. Nice transaction for sure. Also, these bottom brackets came highly recommended by Analog Cycles - good enough for me.:)The Shimano bb that I replaced was a 118, this Stronglight is 119. I ordered the more expensive one with the aluminum vs. plastic cups. Still just $50.00! And you are correct, I did not change anything else.

Re: [RBW] Re: Gus /Susie bottom bracket -which one?

2024-02-24 Thread Richard Rose

Silver wide/low standard issue.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 24, 2024, at 11:46 AM, Kris Burns wrote:What crankset are you using?On Thursday, February 22, 2024 at 12:14:10 PM UTC-6 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:I asked about this when I bought my Gus and got no conclusive answers. I really did not get a conclusive answer from Riv either. When I ordered a bunch of components from Riv for my Gus build the answer I got about what BB to get went something like " we will look into it and send you the right one". The one I got does work but the box it came in does not give me the information I seek.Here are my questions. Gus and Susie have 73 shells. Riv does not list 73 bb's for sale. And they suggest which 68mm IRD one to get for your Gus/Susie - 123 width with right side spacer(?). Am I to conclude that 68mm bottom brackets work on a 73mm shell? An Tange bb has become available that is a 68mm with a 122.5 spindle. Will it work on my Gus. What about the drive side spacer?Please excuse my ignorance. I would like to upgrade my bottom bracket and really have no idea what will fit best. I gather a lot of different spindle lengths will work but not ideally?

Re: [RBW] New bike decision (help!)

2024-02-24 Thread Richard Rose

I’ve not ridden a Platypus but I’ve yet to hear it described as a trail bike. Love, love, love my Clem on & off road but if things get dicey it’s a bit overwhelmed with the lower bottom bracket - compared to my Gus. The Gus or the new Susie (get one! Run do not walk!) are singletrack machines. Yes they are good for other duties as well but are conceived & built to be mountain bikes. I am blown away by it on rough, rooty & slightly rocky singletrack. It is every bit the mountain bike that a Jones is (I had one) which is of course highly regarded in that category. I’ve yet to experience a pedal strike on the Gus. I’ve had quite a few on the Clem. And I am pretty decent at avoiding them if I do say so. So, IMHO if what you are looking for is a singletrack bike get the new Susie or try to find a leftover one/Gus.FWIW, I am closing on 69 years old & have ditched my full suspension bike in favor of the Gus. As you allude to, I am a bit less aggressive on the Gus vs. the Ibis. I think that’s is smarter at my age. No less fun though.:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 24, 2024, at 11:51 AM, Gregger wrote:Long time listener, first time caller. It's a bit hard to tell if you lovely folks on this forum enjoy or loathe these "help me pick a bike" posts - there are a lot of them - but I really would greatly appreciate your input on my situation. I bought a Leo Roadini a while back (my first Riv) and love it for pavement and gravel roads. I now want to look into a trail bike for everything from dirt paths to midwestern single track (grounded and cautious - I'm 62 years).So, I'm torn between a Platypus (love the aesthetics) and a Clem L (the ride experience is evidently sublime?). Or should I wait for the new stouter Susie to arrive (did I mention I weigh 205 lbs?). I only ride for exercise a couple of hours a day, so no lugging weight on racks or bags . . . would I overwhelm the Platypus frame in the woods? Would the Clem have the ground clearance for roots and rocks? Obviously the Susie would be the safe and conservative choice, but I'm not a very patient person (this May? Any guarantees?), and I really do love the purple Platypus available currently. The Clem L would offer a slightly larger tire clearance, and the low(ish) bottom bracket height would likely be sufficient 94.3 % of the time; and tig welds are just fine with me (sorry for the hurt feelings).Or, a forth option - to be truly difficult, should I keep riding my Surly Krampus in the woods and continue to risk wiping out and injuring myself - it just demands to be ridden with abandon, and I scare myself. That's my problem I guess, not the bike's.Thank you so much in advance. I know I've probably left out relevant information, but I've tried to keep this somewhat short. Fail.

Re: [RBW] Going really large on Clems

2024-02-24 Thread Richard Rose

Yes! Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 24, 2024, at 2:38 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:Isn't Grant's intention with these very long reaches to the bar, to allow bars with long sweepback on a stem of reasonable length and with a lot of rise?In my own case, with short arms and long torso and a drop bar level with or below saddle, I need a very undersquare frame (60 X 56 c-c is perfect) for a level top tube; of courses, if I were to use a non-drop bar with a lot of sweepback, things could be different.On Sat, Feb 24, 2024 at 11:23 AM Josh C  wrote:I could fit on anything between 59-64cm with the low top tube but I'd pick the 59 just to keep the overall length down. These bikes are already crazy long, I don't want to make it longer unnecessarily, a 64 clem is like riding an 80s Lincoln Towncar. I don't understand the draw of sizing up. 



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Re: [RBW] Going really large on Clems

2024-02-24 Thread Richard Rose

To Ian’s point, the Clem is unique but very flexible & that long reach is not a limiting factor in my experience. I am (according to Riv) an “in betweener” size wise. I comfortably ride a 52 Clem L with a fistful of seatpost, Bosco bar & 135 FacePlater. Even with the long reach the Bosco needs the long stem - that’s how far back the Bosco comes. So if the longish ETT is “absurdly long” it’s what makes the bike work imho. Possibly important to note is that I have the stem almost at its limit height wise. I know I could ride one size up with less seatpost exposed and less stem exposed as well. I might also need a shorter stem, not sure.But, I also ride a large (57?) Gus which has a similarly long reach as the Clem. I only have a couple of inches of seatpost showing and use a less sweptback bar (Albacore) that has a bit of forward sweep also. So that bike only has a 35mm stem. The handlebars though different on these two bikes are in nearly identical grip positions relative to the saddle - and both are supremely comfortable. FWIW I do not have a long torso/arms. When you have a bike where standover is irrelevant there are all kinds of possibilities.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 24, 2024, at 12:27 PM, ian m wrote:I'm a proponent of sizing to the largest frame that you can comfortably standover, but obviously the Clem L throws that out the window. The thing to look out for on the Clem's is the absurdly long effective top tube. I previously owned a 52 Clem H (83PBH here) and I think it had a 61cm top tube?? Could never get comfortable even with albatross bars. Looks like the current models are even longer, but you are right, the reach remains near the same as the stack increases, bringing the handlebars up and closer to begin with. But a near 47cm reach is nothing to sneeze at, unless you have a very long torso/arms you'll be running exclusively very swept back bars. For comparison a Hillborne reach averages 10cm shorter.On Saturday, February 24, 2024 at 11:53:00 AM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:I've no advice on Riv sizing except that I personally prefer to downsize wrt their recommendations, but I do want to remind you that list rules require you to post photos of your bikes if they are at all interesting, and yours sound interesting indeed.[For the terminally earnest: No, there is no such list rule, but posting photos of interesting bikes is what old fashioned Catholic moral doctrine called a temporal work of mercy, like caring for the sick and visiting the imprisoned. That's a joke too.]So, please do!On Sat, Feb 24, 2024 at 9:49 AM Paul Donald wrote:Hi, I'm new here, all my Rivendell ownership is currently confined to their components all over my Riv-esque bikes, Soma Saga, New Albion Privateer, Schwinn High Sierra (that one is destined to be replaced with a proper Riv) Omnium Cargo. It would be nice to have the main course and not just be fiddling with the condiments.I've been reading what folks have written about Riv sizing, both here and on Rivs website, and was particularly interested in Grant's experiment with a 64 Clem for his 85mm PBH. I have a PBH of 85.5 so in theory I could do similar. Oddly, according to their spec sheets, a 64 has 1mm less reach than a 59.Anyone cheerfully riding against the grain size-wise?

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-- Patrick MooreAlburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum---Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing services---When thou didst not, savage, know thine own meaning,But wouldst gabble like a thing most brutish,I endowed thy purposes with words that made them known.

Re: [RBW] Re: Gus /Susie bottom bracket -which one?

2024-02-23 Thread Richard Rose

Kim, I do have it & will dig it up tomorrow. By the way, my Shimano bb felt fine until I removed the crank & spun the bottom bracket by hand. It was not “crunchy” as others have described. It was stiff though & felt kind of “notchy”, almost indexed. I had put almost 7,000 miles on it so figured now was the time. The new one is really smooth.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 23, 2024, at 10:46 PM, Kim H. wrote:@Richard -Do you know of the model serial number of the Stronglight BB that you bought from Peter White Cycles for your Clem ? ... providing that you have not changed up your stock SILVER double 34/24T rings and spindle length.From the information that you have shared, I am concerned about my BB on my Clem not being buttery smooth from the stock Shimano BB and having perhaps a lot of drag.Thank-you.Kim Hetzel. On Friday, February 23, 2024 at 7:09:08 AM UTC-8 Richard Rose wrote:Thanks Regi. The BB I have on the Gus does work fine. I recently replaced the Shimano BB on my Clem (it felt very stiff) after 7,000 miles of service with a Stronglight unit from Peter White. I was shocked how much smother it is. This got me thinking about replacing the same Shimano unit on my Gus that only has about 1,600 miles use. One of the IRD higher end units (UN-95?) came up for sale here in the proper spindle width (122.5) that caught my eye. It is a 68mm unit but those conversion cups would take care of that. However I am still confused by the Riv suggestion that you need a bb with the driveside spacer or offset spindle. As in, is it sufficient to get a bb with a 122-123 spindle or does it have to be offset. I am guessing this all has to do with chainline & chainring clearance particularly with wider tires?Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 22, 2024, at 11:42 PM, R. Alexis <noj...@webtv.net> wrote:Looking at IRD website the IRD Quad has a 73mm conversion cups and a conversion washer to change the 68 to a 73. Bottom brackets without a shoulder can be mounted to work with both 68 and 73mm bottom brackets. The bottom bracket would fit further in the shell. I did this with a TruVativ Powerspline bottom bracket. Had the shoulder machined off the 68mm driver side to fit further in the 73mm bottom bracket. The person that took it to have it machined didn't know to leave the tool mounting splines. I ended up putting spanner pins in to install. Does the current spindle length work and fit for your use? Do both the arms and chainring clear sufficiently? Are you changing cranks? I know that on my SunTour cranks with 110/74 BCD and 175mm length I think they specify possibly a 125 or 127mm spindle, but 122.5mm spindles have fit fine on my bikes. Only bike using 127mm is the Schwinn High Plains Aluminum. Thanks,Reginald AlexisOn Thursday, February 22, 2024 at 3:20:18 PM UTC-6 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:Well, now I feel stupid. I did not scroll enough. Riv does indeed sell 73mm bottom brackets & one of them has the 2.5 drive side spacer. I presume that one is offered for the Gus/Susie frames. I still don’t see how one of the IRD bb could work at only 68mm.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 22, 2024, at 3:12 PM, Garth <gart...@gmail.com> wrote:I see their web catalog explanations are as clear as mud ! Maybe that's why they couldn't convey it to you either. They have 73mm UN55's but no explanations, only this...113, 118
122.5 x 73, 48.8 chainline
123, B23X, Right +2.5mmsigh . This can't work for the Silver crank on a Susie ? Well WHY ? simple question ... -:)Just being honest, I tend not to want to deal with people that aren't able to give clear answers to my direct questions, or don't have the wits to ask me to clarify the questions, to be more specific to get a more specific answer. "Explain so a child can understand it" never seems to fail. "Why ?" can never be asked enough as far as I'm concerned. So to all those inquisitives asking repeatedly WHY ?.I tip my hat to you in gratitude Y-Not ! I can't give you a specific answer about your crank/bb as much as I may wish to as I'm not a mind reader seeing things as they do. I have a stock of various length cartridges on hand and a bag of various spacers and I play around with the combo that suits where I want the crank to be in relation to the frame. Why ? :-) Because someone can "recommend" a certain setup and it be perfect from their perspective. That may or may not apply to anyone else though. It's no different that a mfr. spec'ing a certain spindle or chainline. It's proper from their perspective setting up, but doesn't apply to all the various possibilities otherwise. It is what it is let it go and do what you gotta do.. always with a smile . On Thursday, February 22, 2024 at 1:14:10 PM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:I asked about this when I bought my Gus and got no conclusive answers. I really did not get a conclusive answer from Riv either. When I o

Re: [RBW] Re: Gus /Susie bottom bracket -which one?

2024-02-23 Thread Richard Rose

Thanks Regi. The BB I have on the Gus does work fine. I recently replaced the Shimano BB on my Clem (it felt very stiff) after 7,000 miles of service with a Stronglight unit from Peter White. I was shocked how much smother it is. This got me thinking about replacing the same Shimano unit on my Gus that only has about 1,600 miles use. One of the IRD higher end units (UN-95?) came up for sale here in the proper spindle width (122.5) that caught my eye. It is a 68mm unit but those conversion cups would take care of that. However I am still confused by the Riv suggestion that you need a bb with the driveside spacer or offset spindle. As in, is it sufficient to get a bb with a 122-123 spindle or does it have to be offset. I am guessing this all has to do with chainline & chainring clearance particularly with wider tires?Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 22, 2024, at 11:42 PM, R. Alexis wrote:Looking at IRD website the IRD Quad has a 73mm conversion cups and a conversion washer to change the 68 to a 73. Bottom brackets without a shoulder can be mounted to work with both 68 and 73mm bottom brackets. The bottom bracket would fit further in the shell. I did this with a TruVativ Powerspline bottom bracket. Had the shoulder machined off the 68mm driver side to fit further in the 73mm bottom bracket. The person that took it to have it machined didn't know to leave the tool mounting splines. I ended up putting spanner pins in to install. Does the current spindle length work and fit for your use? Do both the arms and chainring clear sufficiently? Are you changing cranks? I know that on my SunTour cranks with 110/74 BCD and 175mm length I think they specify possibly a 125 or 127mm spindle, but 122.5mm spindles have fit fine on my bikes. Only bike using 127mm is the Schwinn High Plains Aluminum. Thanks,Reginald AlexisOn Thursday, February 22, 2024 at 3:20:18 PM UTC-6 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:Well, now I feel stupid. I did not scroll enough. Riv does indeed sell 73mm bottom brackets & one of them has the 2.5 drive side spacer. I presume that one is offered for the Gus/Susie frames. I still don’t see how one of the IRD bb could work at only 68mm.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 22, 2024, at 3:12 PM, Garth wrote:I see their web catalog explanations are as clear as mud ! Maybe that's why they couldn't convey it to you either. They have 73mm UN55's but no explanations, only this...113, 118
122.5 x 73, 48.8 chainline
123, B23X, Right +2.5mmsigh . This can't work for the Silver crank on a Susie ? Well WHY ? simple question ... -:)Just being honest, I tend not to want to deal with people that aren't able to give clear answers to my direct questions, or don't have the wits to ask me to clarify the questions, to be more specific to get a more specific answer. "Explain so a child can understand it" never seems to fail. "Why ?" can never be asked enough as far as I'm concerned. So to all those inquisitives asking repeatedly WHY ?.I tip my hat to you in gratitude Y-Not ! I can't give you a specific answer about your crank/bb as much as I may wish to as I'm not a mind reader seeing things as they do. I have a stock of various length cartridges on hand and a bag of various spacers and I play around with the combo that suits where I want the crank to be in relation to the frame. Why ? :-) Because someone can "recommend" a certain setup and it be perfect from their perspective. That may or may not apply to anyone else though. It's no different that a mfr. spec'ing a certain spindle or chainline. It's proper from their perspective setting up, but doesn't apply to all the various possibilities otherwise. It is what it is let it go and do what you gotta do.. always with a smile . On Thursday, February 22, 2024 at 1:14:10 PM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:I asked about this when I bought my Gus and got no conclusive answers. I really did not get a conclusive answer from Riv either. When I ordered a bunch of components from Riv for my Gus build the answer I got about what BB to get went something like " we will look into it and send you the right one". The one I got does work but the box it came in does not give me the information I seek.Here are my questions. Gus and Susie have 73 shells. Riv does not list 73 bb's for sale. And they suggest which 68mm IRD one to get for your Gus/Susie - 123 width with right side spacer(?). Am I to conclude that 68mm bottom brackets work on a 73mm shell? An Tange bb has become available that is a 68mm with a 122.5 spindle. Will it work on my Gus. What about the drive side spacer?Please excuse my ignorance. I would like to upgrade my bottom bracket and really have no idea what will fit best. I gather a lot of different spindle lengths will work but not ideally?

Re: [RBW] Re: Gus /Susie bottom bracket -which one?

2024-02-22 Thread Richard Rose

Well, now I feel stupid. I did not scroll enough. Riv does indeed sell 73mm bottom brackets & one of them has the 2.5 drive side spacer. I presume that one is offered for the Gus/Susie frames. I still don’t see how one of the IRD bb could work at only 68mm.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 22, 2024, at 3:12 PM, Garth wrote:I see their web catalog explanations are as clear as mud ! Maybe that's why they couldn't convey it to you either. They have 73mm UN55's but no explanations, only this...113, 118
122.5 x 73, 48.8 chainline
123, B23X, Right +2.5mmsigh . This can't work for the Silver crank on a Susie ? Well WHY ? simple question ... -:)Just being honest, I tend not to want to deal with people that aren't able to give clear answers to my direct questions, or don't have the wits to ask me to clarify the questions, to be more specific to get a more specific answer. "Explain so a child can understand it" never seems to fail. "Why ?" can never be asked enough as far as I'm concerned. So to all those inquisitives asking repeatedly WHY ?.I tip my hat to you in gratitude Y-Not ! I can't give you a specific answer about your crank/bb as much as I may wish to as I'm not a mind reader seeing things as they do. I have a stock of various length cartridges on hand and a bag of various spacers and I play around with the combo that suits where I want the crank to be in relation to the frame. Why ? :-) Because someone can "recommend" a certain setup and it be perfect from their perspective. That may or may not apply to anyone else though. It's no different that a mfr. spec'ing a certain spindle or chainline. It's proper from their perspective setting up, but doesn't apply to all the various possibilities otherwise. It is what it is let it go and do what you gotta do.. always with a smile . On Thursday, February 22, 2024 at 1:14:10 PM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:I asked about this when I bought my Gus and got no conclusive answers. I really did not get a conclusive answer from Riv either. When I ordered a bunch of components from Riv for my Gus build the answer I got about what BB to get went something like " we will look into it and send you the right one". The one I got does work but the box it came in does not give me the information I seek.Here are my questions. Gus and Susie have 73 shells. Riv does not list 73 bb's for sale. And they suggest which 68mm IRD one to get for your Gus/Susie - 123 width with right side spacer(?). Am I to conclude that 68mm bottom brackets work on a 73mm shell? An Tange bb has become available that is a 68mm with a 122.5 spindle. Will it work on my Gus. What about the drive side spacer?Please excuse my ignorance. I would like to upgrade my bottom bracket and really have no idea what will fit best. I gather a lot of different spindle lengths will work but not ideally?

[RBW] Gus /Susie bottom bracket -which one?

2024-02-22 Thread Richard Rose

I asked about this when I bought my Gus and got no conclusive answers. I 
really did not get a conclusive answer from Riv either. When I ordered a 
bunch of components from Riv for my Gus build the answer I got about what 
BB to get went something like " we will look into it and send you the right 
one". The one I got does work but the box it came in does not give me the 
information I seek.
Here are my questions. Gus and Susie have 73 shells. Riv does not list 73 
bb's for sale. And they suggest which 68mm IRD one to get for your 
Gus/Susie - 123 width with right side spacer(?). Am I to conclude that 68mm 
bottom brackets work on a 73mm shell? An Tange bb has become available that 
is a 68mm with a 122.5 spindle. Will it work on my Gus. What about the 
drive side spacer?
Please excuse my ignorance. I would like to upgrade my bottom bracket and 
really have no idea what will fit best. I gather a lot of different spindle 
lengths will work but not ideally?

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Re: [RBW] Spring FS Post - Cranks, BB, Seatpost, Handlebars, Nitto Rack, Wool

2024-02-20 Thread Richard Rose

PM sent on bottom bracket.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 20, 2024, at 8:11 AM, Mike Ullmer wrote:Continuing to clean out the unnecessaries. All prices don't include shipping, but will be shipped via Pirateship:1) Tange IRD QB-95 68x122 Square Taper BB - $50--Tange's top of line square taper bb. This was on my Fitz, no longer need though. Still buttery smooth.2) Nitto Mustache RM-016N Handlebars - $35--Nitto Mustache RM-016N Heat Treated Aluminium Handlebars. 26.0 Clamp. Some tape residue, but good shape otherwise. 3) Thomson Masterpiece 27.2 Silver - 220mm - $40--Cut down to 22cm overall. The straight section of the post is about 10cm. I used this on my Fitz Rando that has an integrated seat tube light and needed a short seatpost to avoid hitting the wire inside the seat tube.4) Deore XT FC-6206 Silver Square Taper Cranks 170mm with Shimano 122.5 BB - $60--This was on a Trek 520 my uncle gave to me. I ran as a single on a different vintage Trek, but can be set up double or triple with spacers. 110/74 BCD. Comes with the original cup/cone BB. No Chainrings. 5) Patagonia Mens Medium Fisherman Sweater Blue - $50--100% wool. Beautiful deep blue color, very warm. I'm wearing my Woolywarm sweater a lot more these days and want to pass this on. See pics for measurements.6) Patagonia Mens Long-Sleeved Recycled Wool Shirt - $50--60% recycled wool, 30% recycled poly, 10% recycled nylon. I have a couple of these and am just downsizing. Great shape. It's a deep blue color with yellow/red striping.7) Nitto R-14 Rear Rack - $100--Comes with all hardware and struts. Would also trade for a Marks Rack.Pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/KxSdnsek27UuM9Ka8Mike in Minneapolis

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