[RBW] Re: FS: Susie/Wolbis, medium, blue

[Sal]

I'd just like to sell my bike to someone who's not a racist asshole, Mark. 
If that goes against the rules of this white men's club I'm sure the 
moderators will delete my thread. I don't care what people who enforce the 
law ride or read, and I'm not concerned with being perceived as friendly. 
I'm sure your existence is generally apolitical because the world already 
suits you just fine, but I don't see how that's relevant to the sale of 
this bicycle. 

On Monday, February 15, 2021 at 8:31:44 PM UTC-8 Mark Roland wrote:

> Disappointed to see what strikes me as inserting a political statement, 
> under whatever guise. And now further banter and a link for where to buy? 
> That seems not a great idea for this forum. Just for starters, do you think 
> people in law enforcement ride Rivendells or read this forum? If so, which 
> would your advocacy for hate fall under: respectful, supportive, or 
> friendly? I'm sure you are committed to your cause, but I don't see why 
> it's necessary to express it here.
>
> On Sunday, February 14, 2021 at 5:17:19 PM UTC-5 Sal wrote:
>
>> Very lightly used medium Wolbis in RBW blue. As shown minus wheel set and 
>> crankset/pedals for $2600 plus shipping. It would be nice to sell it as 
>> described as a near-complete bicycle, but I'll go to the trouble of parting 
>> it out if you want to pay $1800 for frame/fork/headset, or $2175 for 
>> frame/fork/headset/brakes. Not currently interested in selling individual 
>> components and not open to trades. I'm not in the habit of accepting goods 
>> as payment but I made an exception for this bike. I love it, obviously, but 
>> I want it to turn into money now.
>>
>> Components include XTR M960 rd, suntour power ratchet shifter, custom 
>> Paul Motolites (gold drive side, blue non drive side, alternating green and 
>> pink adjusters), tosco bull moose bars (on an adapter). The saddle in the 
>> photo is a titanium-railed B-17 that's been sewn together for tightness 
>> though the leather is still nice and firm. It's included in the whole 
>> package if you want it. This is a very lightly used bicycle that will feel 
>> almost new to you. It has one small paint chip (email for pics) and one 
>> sticker that says "all my friends hate cops" over the NDS chainstay 
>> graphics. If that offends you you'll have to remove it yourself.
>>
>> Located in Portland, OR... once the ice melts I can deliver locally. Open 
>> to shipping (through bike shop or in original frame box depending on the 
>> configuration purchased)
>>
>> Please email directly if seriously interested for more info/pictures.
>> [image: wolbis-9407.jpg]
>> [image: wolbis-9389.jpg]
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Susie/Wolbis, medium, blue

[Sal]

Thanks, I made them a while ago. Don't have ones that size anymore but I 
still have lots. you can find them at eatatsals dot bigcartel dot com

On Monday, February 15, 2021 at 1:35:26 PM UTC-8 duh...@gmail.com wrote:

> Nice Susie, good luck with the sale.
>
> Question, where's "the sticker" from? I'd like one for my bike if I can 
> find one.
>
> On Sunday, February 14, 2021 at 2:17:19 PM UTC-8 Sal wrote:
>
>> Very lightly used medium Wolbis in RBW blue. As shown minus wheel set and 
>> crankset/pedals for $2600 plus shipping. It would be nice to sell it as 
>> described as a near-complete bicycle, but I'll go to the trouble of parting 
>> it out if you want to pay $1800 for frame/fork/headset, or $2175 for 
>> frame/fork/headset/brakes. Not currently interested in selling individual 
>> components and not open to trades. I'm not in the habit of accepting goods 
>> as payment but I made an exception for this bike. I love it, obviously, but 
>> I want it to turn into money now.
>>
>> Components include XTR M960 rd, suntour power ratchet shifter, custom 
>> Paul Motolites (gold drive side, blue non drive side, alternating green and 
>> pink adjusters), tosco bull moose bars (on an adapter). The saddle in the 
>> photo is a titanium-railed B-17 that's been sewn together for tightness 
>> though the leather is still nice and firm. It's included in the whole 
>> package if you want it. This is a very lightly used bicycle that will feel 
>> almost new to you. It has one small paint chip (email for pics) and one 
>> sticker that says "all my friends hate cops" over the NDS chainstay 
>> graphics. If that offends you you'll have to remove it yourself.
>>
>> Located in Portland, OR... once the ice melts I can deliver locally. Open 
>> to shipping (through bike shop or in original frame box depending on the 
>> configuration purchased)
>>
>> Please email directly if seriously interested for more info/pictures.
>> [image: wolbis-9407.jpg]
>> [image: wolbis-9389.jpg]
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Bosco + stem

[Sal]

Whoops, I'm in Portland. Local is better but I can pay for shipping.

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[RBW] WTB: Bosco + stem

[Sal]

Looking for the non-bullmoose variant of the Bosco 58cm HT aluminum and 
two(!) 120mm stems, silver, 25.4 clamp. Tallux ideal.

Would prefer to buy used. Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: Headset/Headtube Issues on New Atlantis

[Sal]

Actually most, if not all, of the headset (cups) are installed before the 
frames get to Riv, so it's possible it's some sort of an assembly-line 
issue and just the wrong cup size in there, and it got missed during the 
build-up. Hope it's an easy fix.

On Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 10:08:12 AM UTC-7, Brian Campbell wrote:
>
> I would call Rivendell as your next step. Maybe have the shop and Riv 
> communicate about the problem, so everyone is on the same page? Maybe its a 
> manufacturing issue vs. a damage in shipping in issue. I would try to get 
> it resolved before going further. Good luck and sorry to hear about the 
> issue.
>
> On Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 12:35:05 PM UTC-4, AntiCorgi wrote:
>>
>> Hi All:
>>
>> Hope everyone reading this is doing well and staying healthy.
>>
>> I recently had a MIT 55cm 700c Atlantis built up for me, and upon 
>> receiving it noticed a bit of play in the headset region (e.g. I held the 
>> front brake and rocked back and forth and heard a "clunking/clicking" noise 
>> and saw some movement between the threaded upper race and upper pressed 
>> race). I took it to a local bike shop to have it tightened, but no matter 
>> how much they tightened it, they were not able to get rid of the play. They 
>> asked me to leave it with them so they could take apart the headset and 
>> check out what was going on, which is what I did.
>>
>> Yesterday, I received a call back from them reporting that they started 
>> to take apart my headset, and in the process of doing so they reported that 
>> the "lower headset cup was moving around in the frame" and said that they 
>> think the head-tube is ovalized and I should get in touch with "the 
>> manufacturer" about it. Understandably, I'm pretty bummed about this 
>> development, but I'm wondering if I should try to get a second opinion 
>> here? Namely, are there other reasons why the lower headset cup could be 
>> moving around in the frame? 
>>
>> I haven't even ridden the bike yet so it seems pretty unlikely that the 
>> head-tube would be ovalized - the shipping box it came in was in good 
>> condition and everything else was fine. I'm by no means an expert in bike 
>> maintenance/mechanics so I can't think of a non-riding reason for this to 
>> occur.  I did get insurance on the shipping, so if it ends up that it was 
>> damaged due to a hard drop or something I should be covered.
>>
>> Thanks all!
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Problems with Nitto stems and bars?

[Sal]

I was replying to this: "I’m hoping the T9 works its way deeper into the 
crevices. I have real stem grease coming via Amazon tomorrow - do you all 
think I should add that to the stem/bar interface as well? "

The stem/bar interface should get nothing, the stem/steerer interface 
should get grease, and I'll admit I missed what crevices the T-9 is 
supposed to be working its way into... it won't hurt the stem/steerer 
interface but it probably won't help much either: a thicker grease is 
better there. 

Boeshield is for where you want to lube or prevent corrosion, neither of 
which is the case at the handlebar clamp. *Handlebar clamp area should be 
clean and dry and the correct size for the stem being used*, otherwise bar 
may slip. Worth checking all threads involved (stem bolts) and making sure 
the *threads* aren't dry, though. 


On Wednesday, June 17, 2020 at 11:26:11 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Sal, she says she used a little Boeshield on it. Is that ok and grease is 
> bad, or are you saying nah to both? 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Problems with Nitto stems and bars?

[Sal]

do NOT grease the stem/bar interface! 

On Wednesday, June 17, 2020 at 8:48:10 PM UTC-7, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> Whew, I’m glad to have that clarified, and thank you, John. 
>
> I did my 10 miler tonight and I think the ticking is mostly resolved. It 
> was a windy night, and I was moving pretty quickly and there were a lot of 
> people out and about, so it was difficult to really hear. I think I did 
> hear some small ticking maybe 8 miles in, but it was aberrant. I’m hoping 
> the T9 works its way deeper into the crevices. I have real stem grease 
> coming via Amazon tomorrow - do you all think I should add that to the 
> stem/bar interface as well? 
>
> Thanks for all the help today; I’m getting more of an understanding about 
> how stuff works on the bike. It’s both enlightening and terrifying - can I 
> admit that here among all these enthusiasts? Why should more knowledge be 
> terrifying? Well, I used to ride bikes without thought as to what could go 
> wrong. Little noises weren’t even noticed. But the more I know, the more I 
> realize can go wrong. 
>
> This week lots went wrong on the bike. A couple nights ago I was headed 
> down Killer Hill at speed and noticed that my Edelux headlight had some 
> play in it. Huh, I thought, I don’t remember it moving like that... It all 
> got worse fast, so I came to a screeching halt in time for something silver 
> and round to fall off from the light mount, as the light hung loosely from 
> it. I realized that the silver hoop was one of two parts, and the other, an 
> inch long rod-type thing was missing. I backtracked and found the little 
> silver rod up the hill a ways (WHEW) and put it back the way I thought it 
> should go. 
>
> Shaken up by THAT but determined the show must go on, I mounted my bike, 
> and set off rather gingerly, as I feared the light mount loosening again. I 
> pushed off, towards a crossing and was nearly run down by an SUV whose 
> driver decided to run a stop sign. After some unpleasantries between us (I 
> admit to nothing), I was then forced to suffer the indignity of being 
> passed by a Roadie who was at least 20 years my senior.
>
> If you still don’t feel sorry for me, I will add the final straw was 
> taking a turn too tightly and hearing the sickening sound of metal scraping 
> concrete while feeling the bike underneath me skitter sideways. Pedal 
> strike. With my light mount barely holding and my pedal now noticeably 
> scuffed, I pointed my bike towards home. 
>
> Last night, the ticking in my bars was obnoxious and I was about to start 
> getting tics of my own. Arriving home, I set to work with my hex wrenches 
> trying to see where the noise was coming from. I found several loose 
> things, also disturbing. I came inside, started this thread and went to bed 
> at midnight.
>
> After swapping the stem a couple times today and all the futzing around 
> and guesswork, I envisioned the bike coming apart beneath me on tonight’s 
> descent. But, hey, everything held!
>
> So, thanks for all the help; I’m in need of it and I have learned a LOT 
> from this group. But I still maintain that knowing more is frightening.
>
> Leah
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jun 17, 2020, at 1:12 PM, 'John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com > wrote:
>
> 
> Leah
>
> I'm sorry if "defective" implied "unsafe".  I meant the stem does not meet 
> it's design and hence is defective.  The Nitto design of the nut and shelf 
> interface has a small of margin of error, since the hex nut has short flats.
>
> I do NOT think the stem is unsafe to ride since you used a wrench on the 
> bolt to obtain adequate clamp force, and the creak is not present.
>
> If it was on my bike, I would use it and if the creak started again, place 
> a star washer under the bolt to prevent loosening.  The creak is your 
> 'clamp too loose' indicator.
>
> Alternatively, contact and RBW and see what if this covered by their 
> return policy.
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
>>
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>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: For Sale: White Industries DOS freewheel, 16/19.

[Sal]

I’ll buy it. Please email me directly. 

On Monday, June 15, 2020 at 1:05:17 PM UTC-7, Rich Lesnik wrote:
> Really only usable for Quickbeam, SimpleOne or Frank Jones. Used, good shape. 
> $60 shipped conus.

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[RBW] Re: Charlie H Gallop!

[Sal]

Yes, it's more road bike than not. I have no idea why but I love the swoop, 
and the silver. I'll see if I can take more pictures for y'all to ponder, 
but there are significant changes still in the works from what I gather. So 
for all we know the swoop might go and I'll have to buy the prototype. 

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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne Fork replacement

[Sal]

Although it's not likely to fail catastrophically-- that frame does NOT 
seem "ok". It looks like it buckled. If you choose to ride it anyway be 
careful and keep a close eye on the TT and DT. Have it checked out by a 
professional beforehand if you can. 

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[RBW] Re: Wheelset - 700c - Velocity-Built Riv Standard Atlas – Rivendell Bicycle Works

[Sal]

*without

On Tuesday, May 12, 2020 at 10:26:49 AM UTC-7, Sofia Torres wrote:
>
> No, it will be solid and dependable and built for bikes that carry some 
> stuff, but not considered “light” 
>
> I’m guessing there’s another question behind your question though because 
> with context “light” and “heavy” don’t mean much. 

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