On 21 Aug, 13:13, Garth wrote:
> In regards to longer cranks, there's a lot of unfounded fear and mis-
> information that gets spread . Longer cranks don't hurt your knees,
Yes they do, 170mm cranks give me trouble after about 120miles on a
single ride or after about 70miles on a subsequent d
On 20 Aug, 04:21, andrew hill wrote:
> I don't really understand about crank length and it's benefits.
For distance cycling efficiency and freedom from pain it's best to err
towards the shorter cranks. Long cranks will over extend the natural
range of knee motion and may cause long term injury.
On 14 Aug, 03:53, "carnerda...@bellsouth.net"
wrote:
> My 650B Sam Hillborne has Velocity Synergy rims and Shimano Deore V-
> brakes with the pads that came on them. Since new the front wheel has
> had a little tick with each revolution while braking. I assumed this
> was a slightly raised join
On 27 July, 21:40, Peter Andrews wrote:
> The B17 I got just over a year ago is the first Brooks saddle I've
> ever had. I encountered the tedious 'squeak' (creak) for many months,
// //
> I chose the tenacious
> oil over a heavier grease so it could penetrate better. Chain oil
> would penet
On 26 July, 16:18, JimD wrote:
> Not mine, the Riv's.
>
> I'm using a Brooks Swift and it is making noise. I'll characterize it
> as a leathery squeak.
> I've lubricated and checked the fasteners and think this is a leather
> squeak not a rail to seat post or seat post to frame squeak.
>
> H
Just think, in ten years, you'll have enough legs for a dining room
suite.
On 8 Mar, 16:40, Eric Norris wrote:
> Here's my solution:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176...@n03/sets/72157623579596200/
>
> --Eric
> campyonly...@me.comwww.campyonly.comwww.wheelsnorth.org
>
> On Mar 7, 2010, at 7:
My problems mostly occurred with padded tape. Using plastic or cotton
tape gave me a better hand fit and the occurance of hand pain is now
much lessened. Using thin tape allows me to grip the bars without
using my palms, on the tops. I prefer this grip in absence of any
pain anyway.
On 26 Feb,
You should generally have the reach in your drops so that it is level
with tyre contact. This is affected by the height of fitment, steerer
angle and fork rake as well as reach of the bars and stem extension.
If your intended bike is not going to be radically different to what
you are currently us
On 24 Feb, 03:04, Earl Grey wrote:
> I set up my Sam with higher drop bars than any bike I have owned since
> 1991 (i.e., bars appreciably higher than saddle) :), and Sunday,
> before a 150km O24O (O as in over), I raised them some more, maxing
> out the cable housing as I had cut it. Note to fu
