RE: Question
Hi Susan, I had this happen with a bitch who subsequently died of hemangiosarcoma of the spleen. Discomfort in the abdomen can cause strange things with the rear end. I would suggest a full blood work up and urinalysis and possibly ultrasound examination. Rose T.
Re: Question
Susan- Have they tried a Chiropractor? That would be my next thought. Or, an MRI, if the dog seemed to be in pain. Many human Chiropractors will adjust dogs, if there is not a veterinary chiropractor in the area. It can't hurt and it may help. An MRI, would show more than an xray. Expensive, though. Good luck to your friends Janice Parky Cape Cod, MA
Re: question
Would that be unusual for a female bred when she was two years old, then every year thereafter till she was 7 or 8? Isn't that "normal" when breeding - to breed once a year? (You can tell I am not, and never will be, a breeder). Liz Steinweg & The Crew Blue Moon's Baloo Berry Torte "Balou" (11/06/95) Bobby Sox (husky-x 10/31/93) Rio & Sahara (the "Rat Cats") and in loving memory of my 1st BMD - Toby (6/29/97 - 6/30/00 lost to MH) Colorado Springs CO http://www.ccrtiming.com/personal/personal.htm - Original Message - I just came across a bitch listed in the bernergarde who is listed as having whelped SIX litters -- does this seem a bit extreme to anyone else?
Re: Question about Dog Call Names
Hi Cindy- My first Berner was simply "Chewlot's Tully". Chewlot is the kennel prefix, and Tully is my dog's name. My second Berner was "Tully-Sky Avery v Wingfield"...Tully-Sky is my kennel prefix, Avery is my dog's name and the 'v Wingfield' refers to the kennel where my dog was bred. Finally, on my third Berner, we started to get a LITTLE imaginative..."October The Drake v Tully-Sky". October is the kennel prefix, The Drake is a character from Seinfeld (you know..."everybody loves the Drake"), and Tully-Sky is my kennel prefix. We call him Drake. Now...my FOURTH Berner is much, much better..."Greenway's Just Over Par", and we call him Bogey. Greenway is the kennel prefix, and he is from the 'J' litter...my husband and I are very proud of this name since we have been failures in the past! Take Care, Jennie Hoffnagle Glenmoore, PA
Re: Question about Dog Call Names
In a message dated 2/17/2003 1:32:05 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > We wanted to name her Bridger after the > Bridger Mountains near Bozeman Montana, where my husband and I met at > college and lived for 6 years. We just tacked on the kennel name to Bridger > for AKC registration, but have no idea if that's what you are supposed to do. That's a good way to name her. Or if the breeder didn't care what you used, you could have named her something related to that period in your life or locale for her registered name (the name the AKC knows her by) and used Bridger for her call name (the name everyone who knows and loves her by) > I figured I'd ask the question, since everyone's talking about it. So, > what is involved in the name? What does Ch. mean? What does what do you > mean by "c" litter or "p" litter. I feel ignorant, but I guess I'll never > learn if I don't ask the question. Ch. means the dog earned the title Champion, just as you'll see dogs mentioned on this list with initials after their name denoting other titles the dogs have earned. Most breeders want their kennel name included in a registered name. For simplicity in reading pedigrees or catalogs (aside from the fact it can be fun playing word games)many breeders use some sort of theme or letter association to differentiate litters. Some use the same word in each littermates name "Get the show on the road" "Showstopper" "Show me the money" Some use themes "Mercedes" "Porsche" "Four-by-four" and some {like me ;-)]use letters "Get Sirius" {Spock} "Glass Slippers" {Cinny} "Gimme a Chance" {Chance} Some breeders even give you a short list to choose from or register the litter themselves with names they like before you even see the pups. With any of these naming schemes, you can use whatever you want for the "Call Name", it's simply the registered name you may be asked to participate within certain parameters. No one can tell you what to call your dog in your own home. ;-) All my hopes, Vicky and the Horde =P~
Re: Question about Dog Call Names
- Original Message - From: "Cindy Schaumberg" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I can't find the email that started all of the chat about "Dogs call names", > so I'm not sure if the answer to my question lies there or not. However, I > have always been curious about how a dog is supposed to be named. > So, > what is involved in the name? What does Ch. mean? What does what do you > mean by "c" litter or "p" litter. Good questions! In some specific breeds with some animals (certain horse registries, for instance) different years require names that start with a specific letter. They go through the alphabet and roll over to the beginning again. This helps make clear how old the horse is by breed, and reduces problems with name overlaps (sort of like how I know about 100 Newfs and Pyrs named some variety of "Bear."). Others, it is a free for all. In some horse breeds, the farm name is attached, in others, the sire/dam names are incorporated. Dogs are about the same. There is no AKC requirement that you use a kennel name, but most breeders want their kennel name on the dog's papers and request/require via contract you do so. Some breeders like to keep track of the litters by naming the first litter pups something that starts with A, the second litter pups something that starts with B, etc. Other breeders go by themes, such as a patriotic litter, a candy litter, a famous movies litter, and so forth. Some breeders don't care as long as the kennel name is on there (all six of the dogs I have owned which I got as puppies, all the various breeders wanted was the kennel name plus whatever in the world I felt like putting on there). CH means Champion, which means that the dog has won a certain number of points and competitions and attained the status of Champion dog in conformation shows. There are other titles for drafting, water work, obedience, etc. No question is a stupid question. I guarantee you if you were sitting there wondering about it, so were other people. Eileen Morgan The Mare's Nest http://www.enter.net/~edlehman --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.449 / Virus Database: 251 - Release Date: 1/27/2003
Re: Question about overhead trolleys
- Original Message - From: "David & Joanna" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I just wanted to know if anyone has used the heavy duty overhead trolleys > for their berner and if they worked. My husband and I set it up for our > 60lb. std. poodle and he broke it after two days. So we went to the hundred > foot heavy one. Friends of mine live in a no-fence community, near a road, so they keep their highly active standard poodle on an overhead trolley when he is outside. They have a really heavy duty one, and there is a slight dip in it, so there is a little spring to it. They also have a cord with some stretch and give to it, not a chain, so he is less likely to hurt himself if he plunges to the end of it. Eileen Morgan The Mare's Nest http://www.enter.net/~edlehman --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.445 / Virus Database: 250 - Release Date: 1/21/2003
Re: question about swelling
Hi Danielle, First let me say I am not a vet. >From my experience one possible explaination for your dog's second lump could be a foreign body, weed, splinter etc. This foreign body causes the dog's body to react by building the abscess around it. If you gave antibiotics and drained the abscess but did not remove the foreign body it may still be in there and may have migrated, and lodged in a new area causing a new abscess to form. Until the foreign material is removed it can keep moving and after antibiotics are stopped, cause a new abscess. I've had fox tails do this in the past with dogs and horses. I'd ask the vet about this possibility and what he feels in the best course of action. You could also pose this queestion to another vet for a second opinion if the first vet suggests going in to look for the foreign body. Right now my son & daughter-in-law are going through the same thing with their mixed breed girl. Abscess, antibiotics, healed, new abscess. Since it has come back they are faced with the same problem as you. Best wishes, Mary Jeff & Mary Chapdelaine SnoBear Berners N. California, USA http://snobear.freeyellow.com "When you judge another, you do not define them, you define yourself." Wayne Dyer - Psychotherapist, Author and Speaker
RE: question about xrays
Hi Stephanie, The main problems that occur with stifles (knees) are slipping patellas which is not a common problem in Berners or ACL damage which is most often caused by accidents though a very straight angled joint might be more pre-disposed. Hips and elbows are our main concerns though I have always xrayed shoulders as well and only wish more breeders did so. Shoulder OCD lesions are common in Berners and while they can occur with injury the pre-disposition to them has to be considered. They can result in the dog's inability to reach forward fully with his front leg and if both shoulders are affected the obvious limp may not be apparent to the uneducated eye but the stride will be short. Rose
RE: Question about chew bones for berners
Hi, Just to add to Vilma's post, best to avoid using too much fat from the dinner and certainly never from the roasting pan because this can cause diarrhea and /or pancreatitis. If you use peanut butter make sure its the natural kind and no added preservatives or sugar, these can hype up a dog and not kind on the liver and kidneys, also best to use the smooth kind as the nut pieces can irritate the bowel or cause constipation. All good things in moderation:-)) We have a Tricky Treat Ball here which we use to give lunch to puppy Wilma and help hone her tracking and scenting skills. It is best used supervised because it is a softer material that a Buster Cube but doesn't clatter on the wooden floors or dent the furniture. Rose T.
Re: Question about chew bones for berners
HI I had to keep my little girl well rested last summer while she was suffering form a bout of panosteitis. So - I know the dilemma well. I found that the galileo Nylabones did quite well, the edible ones lasted 30 seconds, hardly useful at $5.00 each. Also, hooves are very long-lasting, but make sure he has access to lots of water. I also like frozen carrots, they are very healthy and seem to last a while. Booda bones are destroyed easily, and my berners take chunks off them which are of a size big enough to have blockage be a concern, same goes with rawhide, too dangerous. You should also try kongs stuffed with peanut butter or light cream cheese. There is a relatively new product called a Havaball, which is my favorite "leave them occupied" toy - similar to a Buster cube but with ridges you can put PB or cheese in and fill it with kibbles or other treats. Seems to keep them busy! Good luck with the battle - it's never quite as easy as the veterinarians lead you to beleive. Leslie Joanisse Fortune (31/2 yr old baby boy) and Faith (18month old little princess) Whitehorse Yukon - Original Message - From: "Cindy Buhner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2003 7:32 AM Subject: Question about chew bones for berners > > Hi all, > > Since I'm exploring items to keep my dog Paws from being totally bored while he's on "bed rest" I decided to start checking out chew bones such as Nylabones, Booda bones, etc. I give him marrow bones outside but can't do this inside since I have young children who would think nothing better of picking up one off the floor and possibly sampling it themselves! So what are the general thoughts about these other bones. Some are meant to be totally consumed - are they ok for our big babies? What size to people think are good for berners? And how do people feel about the ones that are not meant to be totally consumed but "small pieces may be ingested and will pass through"? > > Thanks a lot in advance! > > > > > > Cindy Buhner and Paws (the BARC rescue) > > > > - > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now
Re: Question about chew bones for berners
We have given our dogs in the past a toy called the Hol-ee Roller, part of the Tough By Nature line made by JW Pet Company. It is an all natural rubber toy that comes in different sizes and is virtually indestructible. We gave one to a friend that has two Labs. They all loved it and it became the favorite toy in the house. My friend was traveling through Maine by car with his brother and one of his Labs. The had a terrible car accident and his Lab fled the scene when the car caught on fire. Everyone was eventually all right, his dog was successfully located by the efforts of a local radio station and the Maine State Police. My friend later told me that, sadly, the Hol-ee Roller was in the car and much to their dismay melted in the fire. We have since replaced the toy and everyone is happy again. Aishling P. - Original Message - From: "Cindy Reid" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "berner-l" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2003 4:13 PM Subject: Re: Question about chew bones for berners > For Christmas I came across a new dog bone toy from Planet Dog that seems to > be indestructible. It is made from a flexible rubber and the sales person > told me they really last. Well, just looking at it and feeling how flexible > it is you would think your dog would be able to chew pieces off...but after > a month there is not even a toothmark on Nicco's! > > It comes in a large size and different colors..we got the "glow in the dark" > color and it sure does show up nice in the middle of the night. No tripping > over that toy! See website below for more info: > > www.planetdog.com/dog-toys.asp?ID=8 > > Cindy Reid > and Nicco, who now has his new adult chompers >
Re: Question about chew bones for berners
For Christmas I came across a new dog bone toy from Planet Dog that seems to be indestructible. It is made from a flexible rubber and the sales person told me they really last. Well, just looking at it and feeling how flexible it is you would think your dog would be able to chew pieces off...but after a month there is not even a toothmark on Nicco's! It comes in a large size and different colors..we got the "glow in the dark" color and it sure does show up nice in the middle of the night. No tripping over that toy! See website below for more info: www.planetdog.com/dog-toys.asp?ID=8 Cindy Reid and Nicco, who now has his new adult chompers
Re: question about xrays
Hi Stephanie and all, This is an interesting topic. Years ago, we took one of our dogs to a veterinary college to be examined by a vet-neurologist because he was limping and our local vet suspected a nerve problem. The neurologist asked to x-ray the dog's knees and when we were surprised, she explained that a high percentage of referrals for neurological problems were actually dogs that had knee trouble! As to x-raying for hereditary knee problems, I don't think it's done. It's my understanding that slipping (luxating) patellas (knee caps) and a propensity for torn cruciate ligaments are hereditary knee disorders in Bernese. However, I don't know that an x-ray would help to diagnose the propensity for torn ligaments. Further, according to OFA, a dog can be certified as free of luxating patellas through a simple exam from a local veterinarian who then fills out a form. There is an OFA registry for it. However, I think luxating patellas only affects 2 -4 percent of the breed. Many limping Berners probably do suffer from arthritis in their knees. And that can be confirmed by x-ray. But I don't think that it is considered a hereditary condition. A reminder: limping can be caused by tick diseases - particularly ehrlichiosis and lyme disease. The tick transfers a 'bug' that likes to live in the joint area. This causes inflammation and pain so the dog limps. It does not always cause swelling and the 'bugs' sometimes migrate from one joint to another, so it can easily be confused with orthopedic disorders. But in the case of a tick disease, the dog needs an antibiotic. It's best to always do a blood test for tick diseases if your dog is limping. terry thompson missoula, montana
Re: Question about chew bones for berners
Cindy, Try hard sterilized hollow bones and Kong toys. These are meant to be "stuffed" to make them more interesting for the dogs. Stuff them full of peanut butter, squeeze cheese, leftover fat from your dinner meat, even bannana if your dog likes these. Then mix in some of his regular kibble and/or a few biscuits. Put a piece of something really special and smelly deep inside, like liver, steak, chicken...so he will work hard trying to get it out. Make it easy for the food to come out at first until he gets the hang if it. When he gets really good at it, you can freeze them overnight so he has to work harder and longer at emptying them. A dog on "bedrest" who might be getting bored should probably have his entire breakfast and dinner kibble "stuffed" this way. That way he can spend 20 minutes eating dinner (pretty much the highlight of his day, anyhow!) instead of 20 seconds. Nylabones are very durable. They are great if he likes them. I would avoid things that break off into big chunks, these can cause intestinal blockage. I would recommend rotating his toys (chew toys and stuffed toys as well) every couple days. That way he thinks he is getting a new one all the time! I hav emy dogs's toys in 3-4 "sets" that get changed periodically to keep interest high. If he is bored, try to spend some extra time w/ him teaching little tricks to keep his mind active while he revovers from surgeryteach shake, speak, whatever he can physically do. My Bean does "Shark!" This means he snaps up the air w/ great enthusiasm! Or just nice snuggles and belly rubs Vilma Briggs (Kistner) Mt. Gilead, OH U-UD Mocha Java Slurp, UDX, HIC, TT Ch. Brighteye Expresso Bean, UD, NDD, TT U-CDX Our Little Buddy, UD, NA, TT Thirdtym's A Charm, CGC and Ted
Re: question for eileen morgan
Wow, my name made it to a header. I feel like I've arrived. =8-0 - Original Message - From: "lydia myhree" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Eileen- I am curious about if you mix Innova and > California Natural together? Micawber the Berner boy, as a youngster, had tummy trouble with the food recommended by his breeder (Solid Gold) and also had loose stool trouble with Innova. Both are very rich foods, in terms of lack of fillers. California Natural (distributed by the same company as Innova) was a better food for Mic. Lliira the Pyr and Nessie the Newf were fine either way, but Lliira eats Innova better than she eats the CN. So I just got in the habit of giving Lliira and Nessie the Innova and Mic the California Natural. When Cassie the Pyr joined us, we put her on the California Natural for no particular reason other than the two bags would last about the same amount of time. Nowadays, Mic can eat either food, but we still get the two brands out of habit. Eileen Morgan The Mare's Nest http://www.enter.net/~edlehman --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.426 / Virus Database: 239 - Release Date: 12/2/2002
Re: question
In a message dated 11/20/2002 10:11:04 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > What does Limited Registration mean?? Hi Susie, AKC Limited Registration means that were you to breed that dog or bitch, the puppies couldn't be registered with AKC. A dog or bitch with limited registration also cannot be shown in AKC conformation (aka: breed) competition. But they CAN do do everything else; obedience, agility, tracking, draft, therapy, foot warming, etc. The reason breeders use the Limited Registration is to discourage random breeding of pups after they're sold. Responsible breeders select only those dogs that best exemplify the breed standard, and have correct temperament, and have a full set of health clearances/evaluations, to contribute to the gene pool. > My husband and I are PPOs and trying to learn as much as possible. THANK YOU-THANK YOU-THANK YOU! :-D I know it's easier to just go with the flow than try to learn a foreign language like dog-talk. But you and the breed will both benefit from taking the time to learn the ins and outs. KEEP ASKING QUESTIONS!!! I'm sure there are lots of people online who want to know the same things, but are unsure about asking. -Sherri Venditti (2 berners on limited registration and 1 on full)
Re: question/limited registration and its purpose
Susie Bockard asked in a post >>What does Limited Registration mean?? My husband and I are PPOs and trying to learn as much as possible. Susie, An AKC limited registration disallows offspring of the animal to be registered with the AKC. The AKC keeps a Stud Book for each breed it recognizes. The Stud Book is a record of the first litter sired/whelped by a dog/bitch. The Stud Book does not reflect all litters but does reflect all FIRST registered litters from individual dogs/bitches. If a sire was only bred to maiden bitches his whole life, and all those litters were registered with the AKC, ALL the sire's litters would be in the stud book. :-) However, if he was bred to maiden and matron bitches, only his first litter and subsequent litters to maiden bitches will be represented in the Stud Book. Hope I've described that so you understand. If there's confusion ask me to clarify and I'll confuse us all some more. :-) The limited registration is designed to allow breeders some control over the influence of dogs from their program have on the breed's stud book. Sometimes it occurs that a person buys a female with limited registration and chooses to violate an addtional (not required by AKC) written contract with her breeder that states the bitch will not be bred. If the bitch does have puppies, they cannot be registered with the AKD. Therefore the female will not "affect" the future genetic pool represented in the AKC's stud book. Some people have naively used limited registration to assure dogs they produce will not be bred once they are sold. Unfortunately it doesn't work out sometimes that people understand what the limited registration means or they don't care. The only way to assure absolutely a dog will not produce puppies, is to neuter/spay it. The next best practice a breeder can utilize is to have a mutual understanding (preferably in writing) between breeder and owner that the dog will be sold on limited registration and will not ever be bred. Ruth Reynolds Pioneer Bernese Greenwood, FL www.jersey.net/~mountaindog/rar
RE: Question about X-Rays for Pregnant Bitch
Hi Jennie, My vet tells me a rad is equal to ten minutes in the full sunshine! I always xray my pregnant bitches in the last week and counts have been accurate except for the time before last when we got a bonus puppy:-) The plate wasn't big enough and I didn't want to redo. I got the answer I was looking for which identified a couple of very large whelps planning on blocking the back door on a maiden bitch so I went in for them surgically when the temperature dropped. My understanding is the potential danger lies in the first three weeks when the brain and nervous system is developing. Rose
Re: Question about X-Rays for Pregnant Bitch
There is an article by Cathy Burlile in the June 2000 Alpenhorn about x-rays for pregnant bitches Susan Ablon Gweebarra BMD Balch Springs, Tx http://www.pageweb.com/gwebara
Re: Question about X-Rays for Pregnant Bitch
Hi Pat- I have always been told that it is diagnostic to evaluate litter size after 45 days by radiograph? I also believe that ultrasound is useful at 30 days, to look for little flutter heart-beats...but I personally always like to see the skeletons to count on x-rays. Radiographs are more accurate in my opinion. The ultrasonographer typically says "Well, it COULD be 2 or maybe 4...yada yada yada"...nothing definitive. As far as a danger to the pups...I have not heard of any vet that I have worked with offer words of concern about one dose of exposure during an abdominal film putting the pups in danger. A breeder once told me that she 'heard' that an x-ray taken too early can potentially cause growth problems, since the growth plates are not fully developed. This did not make much sense to me, since puppies don't have their growth plates fully formed until into the first year. I would be interested to hear others' responses...could you forward them, or if you make up a list of responses...could you send it along to me too? Thanks! Jennie
Re: Question re Flexi leads
Here's my reasons that I agree, partially, with Rose. I don't feel Flexis should be commonly used, particularly with young dogs where other people are around. I think they contribute to learning bad manners. I've seen young male dogs learn to do that obnoxious lunging when on flexis. You just can't be quick enough to stop it. They also allow a dog to be self-employed on the end of that 26 feet so they're not paying attention. I've got a couple of 8 ft leather leashes for long walks where other dogs/people may be around. The only time I think using flexis is ok is while training. They're great for learning to 'drive' through the tension of the flexi, like while going out to the scent articles, for go-outs, and for the dumbbell. Marjie
Re: Question about X-Rays for Pregnant Bitch
In a message dated 11/6/2002 8:36:25 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: << What are the pros and cons of x-raying a bitch prior to delivery? When should it be done if at all? What are the risks if any to the puppies? >> We always X-ray our girls so we have a head count, albeit not precise, before labor begins. That way if it's the middle of the night and a four hour wait for the vet's office to open, we have some information to help determine if the bitch has quit working prematurely and we need to start heading to an emergency center. If we have our expected number, and our hands tell us she's empty as well, we can relax a bit and wait for the regular vet to open and confirm all is well. One of my girls carried small litters, three and four, and looked like she was going to have eight. It was easy to count her pups on the radiographs. Our last litter showed as five or possibly six on the X-ray. Five were delivered naturally and the bitch said all done. We were only two hours from a.m. appointments, so we waited. There was a sixth, a very small, deformed baby that we ended up doing a c-section for. Without the pre-whelp X-rays, we may have delayed that post-whelp checkup longer and could have gotten in trouble. The pup did not survive, the bitch was fine. It's not foolproof. Just an available tool that seems to not impact the puppies or bitch that we can determine. It certainly is not to satisfy curiosity. We X-ray within seven days of the due date. Works for us. Not necessarily recommending it for others or suggesting it as the best way. Carol Lingley Caroling Bernese Ijamsville, MD
Re: Question re Flexi leads
- Original Message - From: "Rose Tierney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Personally I think Flexis belong in the trashcan but if one must use one > the tape variety is better than the cord. It is kinder on the poor > pedestrian who might get in the way. Care to share with us why? Aside from the obvious that rude people in public can allow their dog to tangle with other pedestrians. I'm just wondering if there is another reason you don't care for them. Eileen Morgan The Mare's Nest http://www.enter.net/~edlehman --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.410 / Virus Database: 231 - Release Date: 10/31/2002
Re: Question about X-Rays for Pregnant Bitch
I know lots of people do x-ray prior to whelping, and my understanding is that the risk to the pups is minimal. I elected not to x-ray because of the following: 1. Minimal risk is still risk; 2. Not 100% accurate anyway; and 3. A medical procedure for bitch -- I do not think she needed that stress when she was already huge and miserable. I know an excellent method for counting puppies -- as they come out just start -- one, two, three... :) I do x-ray after whelping to ensure that all puppies have arrived. Oh, that reminds me -- more puppy expenses to report -- I ordered collars and toys from a catalog -- about $100. Mary-Ann Bowman Utah
RE: Question re Flexi leads
Hi, Personally I think Flexis belong in the trashcan but if one must use one the tape variety is better than the cord. It is kinder on the poor pedestrian who might get in the way. Rose
Re: Question re Flexi leads
Hi, when 3 months and 12kgs our puppy broke her flexi lead through a bid to chase birds - it was designed for dogs up to 20kgs, now she has the adult big dog lead (up to 60kgs) and she is fine though the click spring does seem to be getting less trusty after only three weeks. When she is bigger I don't think we will use this, but we only need a lease in town and she has free rein of a large yard otherwise. emma - Original Message - From: "Maureen Barry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 4:17 PM Subject: Question re Flexi leads > > To those of you who use Flexi leads, in your opinion, > is the cord lead sufficiently strong to stop a > determined 115 lb Berner in his tracks if need be, or > would the lead that is webbed its entire length be a > wiser investment? > > Ninety-five percent of the time when we're out and > about, Jake would not abuse the added freedom the > Flexi lead would afford him. However, that other five > percent of the time, when a squirrel or another dog > beckons ! Till now we've been using a 6-foot > leather lead. > > Any input would be appreciated. > > Maureen Barry > Montreal, Quebec > > __ > Do you Yahoo!? > HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now > http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/ >
Re: Question re Flexi leads
- Original Message - From: "Maureen Barry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To those of you who use Flexi leads, in your opinion, > is the cord lead sufficiently strong to stop a > determined 115 lb Berner in his tracks if need be, or > would the lead that is webbed its entire length be a > wiser investment? When we kicked up a deer, my 130 lbs Newfie bitch hit the end of the flexi at a full gallop. Other than me taking some really big steps until I got her attention back, nothing bad happened. The leash has stood up to my guys for years now. They are polite almost always, but they do test it often enough for me to think they are pretty darn strong. I have the largest, heaviest, longest flexi's they make. Eileen Morgan The Mare's Nest http://www.enter.net/~edlehman --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.410 / Virus Database: 231 - Release Date: 10/31/2002
RE: Question re Flexi leads
Maureen, I use a 10 yr. old "Blue" Flexi leash. It has always been able to hold a Berner (we are on our 3rd BMD, 2 rehomes and an SPCA rescue). The first BMD worked that leash for all it was worth - in & out, in & out. The 2nd was the best dog I ever walked on leash (former owner "sent" him to Obedience classes). Our current was 165 lbs when we got him from the SPCA and he was not leash trained at all (he's down to below 130 lbs now and still losing weight - target is 100 lbs). The Flexi leash has taken it all, even though it's the "Up to 50 lbs" model. If and when it breaks, I will definitely buy another. But I think I'll get the Red model then! :-) The nice thing about the Flexi-Leash is that you have a choice between letting the dog be a dog and sniff, sniff, sniff or have them Heel when needed or desired. Later, Carl "Skip" Seibert Williamsburg, VA Visit Skip's Berner Links at: http://www.widomaker.com/~seibert -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:owner-berner-l@;prairienet.org]On Behalf Of Maureen Barry Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 10:18 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Question re Flexi leads To those of you who use Flexi leads, in your opinion, is the cord lead sufficiently strong to stop a
Re: Question re Flexi leads
Susan's story: I put him on a flexi when we got ready to go out the door and when I opened it and he bolted I held on with both hands as he charged full speed to the end of it. He was only about 100# but at that speed I couldn't hold on and he popped the lead out of my hands as it flipped him backwards into the air. My story: Scene: Dog #1 on flexi ready to be walked while I am trying to hook up dog #2 to another flexi. Not paying attention to dog #1 = BIG MISTAKE. Dog #1 (female, around 90lbs) sees rabbit and proceeds to chase it. Dog #1 reaches end of flexi in about 2 seconds flat. Person holding flexi (me) is caught completely off guard and is sent literally *flying* through the air as she reaches the end of the lead. Person lands in middle of road in front of house (a cul-de-sac in a quiet neighborhood) on shoulder. Dog #2 still waiting in driveway as frantic husband rushes to my side. Dog #1 happily racing around neighbor's yard after rabbit, still dragging flexi behind her. End Result: One completely separated shoulder; surgery to put it back together plus a screw to hold pieces in place; another surgery to remove screw; yet another semi-surgery (under anesthesia while they break up scar tissue so I can raise my arm above shoulder height). Four years later? Still have the dog, still have problems with that shoulder!! Moral of the story: Pay attention to what you and your dog is doing at all times. Flexis are great! Regards, Lynne Robinson Ft. Collins, CO DuCoeur Bernese http://home.attbi.com/%7ebmtndog/index.html
Re: Question re Flexi leads
On Tue, 5 Nov 2002 07:17:30 -0800 (PST) Maureen Barry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: > > To those of you who use Flexi leads, in your opinion, > is the cord lead sufficiently strong to stop a > determined 115 lb Berner in his tracks if need be, or > would the lead that is webbed its entire length be a > wiser investment A story - Years ago I had a problem with my Granville bolting out the door. I put him on a flexi when we got ready to go out the door and when I opened it and he bolted I held on with both hands as he charged full speed to the end of it. He was only about 100# but at that speed I couldn't hold on and he popped the lead out of my hands as it flipped him backwards into the air. I still have that flexi 10yrs later and am using it with other dogs. Whether it stops you dog will depend on if you can hold on. BTW, Granville quit bolting out of doors Susan Ablon Gweebarra BMD Balch Springs, Tx http://www.pageweb.com/gwebara
Re: Question re Flexi leads
I find the webbed version, despite price, much nicer not only in resistance but also in case it ever gets tangled around yr legs or other dogĀ“s legs. My Mali has a webbed flexi and a lab I used to walk had the cord and it hurt incredibly any time it got tangled! Simone Brasilia Brazil - Original Message - From: Maureen Barry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 1:17 PM Subject: Question re Flexi leads > > To those of you who use Flexi leads, in your opinion, > is the cord lead sufficiently strong to stop a > determined 115 lb Berner in his tracks if need be, or > would the lead that is webbed its entire length be a > wiser investment? > > Ninety-five percent of the time when we're out and > about, Jake would not abuse the added freedom the > Flexi lead would afford him. However, that other five > percent of the time, when a squirrel or another dog > beckons ! Till now we've been using a 6-foot > leather lead. > > Any input would be appreciated. > > Maureen Barry > Montreal, Quebec > > __ > Do you Yahoo!? > HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now > http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/ >
Re: Question re Flexi leads
Sherri wrote: >I know plenty of people who've bought the webbed flexi, but no one who uses it . >The problem is that it's very heavy and cumbersome...most people just don't like it. I have, and I do! My only gripe about it is that the tape freezes up in the snow and doesn't retract too easily! Wendy, Boris and Tanja too (with 2.5 inches of snow - whoo hoo!) wendy beard ottawa, canada http://www.beard-redfern.com
Re: Question re Flexi leads
In a message dated 11/5/2002 10:18:05 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > To those of you who use Flexi leads, in your opinion, > is the cord lead sufficiently strong to stop a > determined 115 lb Berner in his tracks if need be, I'd be more concerned about your shoulder holding up than the flexi chord ;-} So long as it's not chewed, the flexi chord is very strong...but seriously, you have to use a flexi with care. Unchecked, your dog can build up quite a head of steam in that 16 ft resulting in either injury to you or a dropped leash. I use flexis all the time, but I do keep an eye out for squirrels, other dogs, other people...and I keep an eye on my dog's body language. The point of all this 'awareness' is to get my dog focused on me BEFORE he takes off after a squirrel or in tangled up (in play or otherwise) with another dog. By and large, my dogs know to control their pace while on the flexi, but if one starts gaiting out...I alway use the leash 'brake' BEFORE they get to the end. This helps to control them and keep my shoulder intact (no laughing matter after 14 weeks of PT, cortisone injection, and still the possibility of surgery). or > would the lead that is webbed its entire length be a > wiser investment? I know plenty of people who've bought the webbed flexi, but no one who uses it . The problem is that it's very heavy and cumbersome...most people just don't like it. -Sherri Venditti
Re: Question re Flexi leads
I always used a Flexi with Riot, and didn't have any problem. On the odd occasion he would race after something, I'd call to him to stop - call very quickly! You can also (kind of) push on the button on the Flexi to kind of slow it down a bit (creates a bit of a drag on the line). It's very touchy, so you might want to practice. Last resort, I'd start running and pull back to slow him down. Last, last resort, I'd let go! :-) The sound of the Flexi dragging usually made him stop and turn around to see what the noise was. Then I could get his attention for a sit so I could walk up and grab the Flexi again. Dana Pero & Simon the PWC (who's marked like a Berner, but a little short!) Remembering Riot always Tustin, CA