[BlindHandyMan] installing a new shingled roof

2006-10-17 Thread Lee A. Stone

Is there an advantage  or disadvvantage  of having a shingled  roof 
installed in the fall  or the summer ? thanks .Lee



-- 
Amnesia used to be my favorite word, but then I forgot it.


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] installing a new shingled roof

2006-10-17 Thread David Ferrin
They need to be installed in warm weather so that they can seal correctly.  In 
special instances a good contractor will put a roof up in colder weather if 
it's an emergency kind of thing but it won't seal correctly until at least 
spring.  I know this for a fact because the contractor who put my roof up told 
me all of this when he had to put a roof up in January a few years ago.  I 
asked him if it was a good idea and his answer was no it really wasn't but the 
existing roof was leaking so badly that he had no choice because it couldn't 
wait until spring.  The house would have been ruined by then by water damage.
David Ferrin
personal email address 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Consciousness is that annoying time between naps.
- Original Message - 
From: Lee A. Stone 
To: Blind Handyman 
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 3:34 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] installing a new shingled roof



Is there an advantage or disadvvantage of having a shingled roof 
installed in the fall or the summer ? thanks .Lee

-- 
Amnesia used to be my favorite word, but then I forgot it.


 

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in Varnish

2006-10-17 Thread William Stephan
Well, I'm having some trouble getting an even thickness, I'm putting too much 
in the center of the surface and not enough on the edges.  I can tell this 
tactilely, so i'm going to slap a couple more coats on the thing before the 
examination by the sighted folks happens.


Bill Stephan
Kansas City, MO
(816)803-2469
William Stephan


-Original Message-
From: Dale Leavens[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 10/16/06 7:54:36 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in Varnish

I am interested in this, I know how difficult it can be to keep brush 
strokes out of paint and varnish and I know how finger prints so easily get 
onto and into things, I find it difficult to see how you keep finger prints 
out of the finish when keeping brush marks out can be so difficult.

My mother was constantly wiping my finger prints off of dry paint, prints I 
couldn't see.


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: Mickey Fixsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in Varnish


 Bill,

 Congratulations!!!

 I'm sure that you noticed on coats after the first one, that you don't 
 have to use as much finish and it can be rubbed out further.  Btw, I use 
 400 grit sandpater between coats and be sure to make sure that everything 
 is very clean before applying the next coat.

 Yes, you can use the same technique with paint.  It will work fine with 
 both alkyd based and latex paints and it doesn't matter on what type of 
 gloss it has.  I do use a brush with some painting, depending on what the 
 job is.  I use the hand technique on smaller projects like what you are 
 working on or cabinets and such.  For house painting, I use a brush.

 Keep us posted.


  - Original Message - 
  From: William Stephan
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 10:42 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in Varnish


  Well, taking Mickey's advice, I have so far put two coats of varnish on 
 my tabletop. My wife was kind enough to pick the varnish and some paint 
 thinner up for me at the lumber yard, and I'm not sure that it's garden 
 variety varnish. The can says it's an antique finish. It is oil-based, 
 and I was indeed able to feel the areas where there was too much or too 
 little coverage. I have a reader/book-keeper with eyes scheduled to work 
 on Tuesday evening, and i'll get him to evaluate my work after another 
 coat and give you all a report as to how it looks.
  I'm curious though if the same techniques can be used with paint, and 
 whether it matters if it's flat or gloss paint you're working with.

  Bill Stephan
  Kansas City, MO
  (816)803-2469
  William Stephan






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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Quartz Infrared Heaters

2006-10-17 Thread William Stephan
Dale, lofts, because of their high ceilings are another place where this kind 
of heat is supposed to be mor economical.


Bill Stephan
Kansas City, MO
(816)803-2469
William Stephan


-Original Message-
From: Dale Leavens[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 10/16/06 7:21:41 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Quartz Infrared Heaters

I just did a search and was interested to discover that this sort of heating 
device has been widely used in industry for heat processing like thermal 
molding and vacuum forming and heating metallic parts for coating or burning 
the lubricant off of extruded wire insulation and all sorts. The primary 
preferred use is to be able to come up to full temperature quickly and fall 
off again quickly when not in use. A controller can turn the lamps on just 
in time for some or other part of the process and the radiation falls back 
to about 5% within a couple of seconds of turning them off.

The technology is used for many other things too, direct radiation for spot 
heating in large areas like hangers and warehouses or to keep snow and ice 
clear from outdoor areas or even spot heating of a part of a patio like over 
the barbecue.

This refers to the element technology only, not that particular 
configuration in the Edinpure device.

While electric infrared heating is far from new, I had never thought of 
using it in those ways.


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: rj [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 7:44 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Quartz Infrared Heaters


 If you read the post of mine stated $397 for the 1000 sq foot and $300 for
 the 500 sq ft.  the deluxe model, which I forgot the name that heat 1000 
 sq
 ft is $447, and it has a wood cabinet. Go to google and type in Edenpure
 heaters and take your choice of where you would like to purchase the 
 heater.
 Even Amazon has one up for bid.
 Good luck
 P. S. the last bid on Amazon was $305 and about two days to go.
 RJ
 - Original Message - 
 From: Terrie Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 4:26 PM
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Quartz Infrared Heaters


 i am interested in the heater and no one on here answered my question OK
 WHAT DO THESE DAMNED THINGS COST .sO IS THERE A DIFFERENT TYPE THEN THE
 EDENPURE
 TERRIE



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in Varnish

2006-10-17 Thread Dan Rossi
I have to agree with Dale,

After talking with many people about finishes, my sighted friends always 
complain about how difficult it is to get a perfect finish without brush 
strokes visible.  The finishes feel fine, but you can see the marks.  I 
find it hard to believe that finger painting a finish would have a good 
visible finish.  I'm sure it feels perfectly smooth, that is a function of 
sanding and buffing, but I have my doubts as to the visible effect.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in Varnish

2006-10-17 Thread William Stephan
Well, if I can't get the technique right this way, I might try a thick coat of 
finish, then putting a sheet of butcher paper over it and rolling it with a 
very wide roller.  This is something I've never tried before, so I'm more 
interested in finding out what I can and can't do than actually creating a 
piece of nice furniture.  I mean, there's always contact paper {grin.

Bill Stephan
Kansas City, MO
(816)803-2469
William Stephan


-Original Message-
From: Dan Rossi[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 10/17/06 9:59:02 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in Varnish

I have to agree with Dale,

After talking with many people about finishes, my sighted friends always 
complain about how difficult it is to get a perfect finish without brush 
strokes visible.  The finishes feel fine, but you can see the marks.  I 
find it hard to believe that finger painting a finish would have a good 
visible finish.  I'm sure it feels perfectly smooth, that is a function of 
sanding and buffing, but I have my doubts as to the visible effect.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:(412) 268-9081


To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] blind techniques

2006-10-17 Thread one foxy lady
Well as a blind female and should I need to have some major repairs done 
which I do have some patio issues hanging over my head and I asked this list 
for some info pertaining to what I needed to do to have it fixed and I 
received a ton of excellent information on the subject..
I of course will not do the repairs myself, but I like being aware of what 
it takes to have the job done correctly and the tools/supplies are all 
visual products but least I will know if I'm getting a good deal on the job 
rather than being in the dark and having to go alone with whatever is 
suggested at the time when it could be a less expensive way for me..
I appreciate the wealth of info that is provided on this list many many 
things I never knew of.
So as far as I'm concerned I think this list is well worth the efforts all 
is put forth into and the researching of said products weather blind or 
sighted do it is irrelevant..

Hailley

- Original Message - 
From: jim [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 10:56 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] blind techniques


 hi mickey i agree totaly.
 jim
 At 10:11 AM 10/17/2006, you wrote:

Hi all.

I'm sorry, but I get frustrated when I read many things posted to this
list that are simply a rehash of information available out there that is
intended for sighted people. The information posted does not include the
techniques and procedures to get the task done as a blind person.
Shouldn't a rule of posting to this sight require the information posted
to include the blindness techniques needed to do the Job?



Granted, some posts do include blindness techniques and they are greatly
appreciated. I am here, after all, to learn and share blindness techniques
for doing all sorts of jobs as a blind person. It is of great help and
encouragement to hear how other blind people are doing these jobs. It is
of little or no help to me to hear how to do jobs by using vision. There
are plenty of tv shows, books, and the internet to find information for
sighted people. There is virtually no other place to get information of
how to do these things as a blind person.



This is, of course, just one person's opinion. I would like to hear what
others think.



Thanks-- Mickey

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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in Varnish

2006-10-17 Thread Mickey Fixsen
Bill,

See, you can do it.  You are learning.  Like most anything, there is a learning 
curve and you get better as you go along

I am proud of you for getting in there and doing it.  You didn't listen to the 
sighted world's misconceptions and other blind people's doubts.  Keep up the 
good work!

-- Mickey
  - Original Message - 
  From: William Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 9:52 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in Varnish


  Well, I'm having some trouble getting an even thickness, I'm putting too much 
in the center of the surface and not enough on the edges. I can tell this 
tactilely, so i'm going to slap a couple more coats on the thing before the 
examination by the sighted folks happens.

  Bill Stephan
  Kansas City, MO
  (816)803-2469
  William Stephan

  -Original Message-
  From: Dale Leavens[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: 10/16/06 7:54:36 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in Varnish

  I am interested in this, I know how difficult it can be to keep brush 
  strokes out of paint and varnish and I know how finger prints so easily get 
  onto and into things, I find it difficult to see how you keep finger prints 
  out of the finish when keeping brush marks out can be so difficult.

  My mother was constantly wiping my finger prints off of dry paint, prints I 
  couldn't see.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Mickey Fixsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 5:36 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in Varnish

   Bill,
  
   Congratulations!!!
  
   I'm sure that you noticed on coats after the first one, that you don't 
   have to use as much finish and it can be rubbed out further. Btw, I use 
   400 grit sandpater between coats and be sure to make sure that everything 
   is very clean before applying the next coat.
  
   Yes, you can use the same technique with paint. It will work fine with 
   both alkyd based and latex paints and it doesn't matter on what type of 
   gloss it has. I do use a brush with some painting, depending on what the 
   job is. I use the hand technique on smaller projects like what you are 
   working on or cabinets and such. For house painting, I use a brush.
  
   Keep us posted.
  
  
   - Original Message - 
   From: William Stephan
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 10:42 AM
   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in Varnish
  
  
   Well, taking Mickey's advice, I have so far put two coats of varnish on 
   my tabletop. My wife was kind enough to pick the varnish and some paint 
   thinner up for me at the lumber yard, and I'm not sure that it's garden 
   variety varnish. The can says it's an antique finish. It is oil-based, 
   and I was indeed able to feel the areas where there was too much or too 
   little coverage. I have a reader/book-keeper with eyes scheduled to work 
   on Tuesday evening, and i'll get him to evaluate my work after another 
   coat and give you all a report as to how it looks.
   I'm curious though if the same techniques can be used with paint, and 
   whether it matters if it's flat or gloss paint you're working with.
  
   Bill Stephan
   Kansas City, MO
   (816)803-2469
   William Stephan
  
  
  
  
  
  
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] blind techniques

2006-10-17 Thread David Ferrin
People who post instructions and or information on how to do things can only 
offer what is available to them during the course of their research.  Now 
having said that if anybody feels that this information is lacking in some form 
or another then by all means find and post more detailed instructions for the 
blind if you can find it.  In other words if you can do better then go right 
ahead and do so.  We'll all benefit from it I'm sure.  
David Ferrin
personal email address 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Consciousness is that annoying time between naps.
- Original Message - 
From: Ralph Supernaw 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 1:16 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] blind techniques


I agree that what makes this list especially useful are the tips and
explanations for how to do things the blind way. I can see some value in
the information that does not pertain specifically to blind ways. One of
the challenges of being blind is that finding information is more
time-consuming and difficult than for sighted people. Therefore, it is nice
to have that information run through my inbox. (actually my Blind Handyman
folder). I can imagine that for those of you who have more knowledge and
experience than a someone like me might get irritated at having tow weed
through it all.

Bottom line, though, is that the tips and discussions about how to do things
the blind way are the cream.

Ralph



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Bugs

2006-10-17 Thread Kevin Doucet
Hmmm,

Don't know ware you live but here in Alabama we don't have large 
enough or fierce enough roaches that would harm pets

smile

Sorry! Stop hitting me just could not resist!

At 10:51 AM 10/13/2006 -0400, you wrote:

Hi All,

Does any one know of a good bug spray that you can spray around the base
boards for roaches that will not harm pets?


Steve  Shannon
Today I marry my best friend.  The one I laugh with, live for, love..
October 11, 2003






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Thanks.



Kevin Doucet
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


confuse as says

Blind man with unmarked forehead has large belly!



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] blind techniques

2006-10-17 Thread Dale Leavens
I would add to what Ralph has said that sometimes the best way to figure out 
a blind way of doing something is to understand the usual way sighted people 
do it, not because they are sighted but because understanding what is 
required permits one to improvise.

I learned how to sweat copper pipe from the clerk in a hardware store. He 
didn't actually teach me but he described thoroughly how it is done. The man 
didn't have a grade 8 education but he also didn't have the presumption that 
I shouldn't be told.

Now here is the thing as I perceive it; I cannot observe many things being 
done, television programming frequently is insufficiently narrated, the few 
books I have looked into depend on photographs and drawings partly because 
it is clear but I suspect partly because the authors lack clarity of 
intellect and/or language to be able to logically and sequentially write out 
the description.

I am often struck by the information not present when reading a catalogue or 
browsing the Web for goods and services and usually frustrated by the trivia 
and tripe the descriptions contain. I have to believe that it is because the 
image provides the information lacking in the text.

Well of course I actually know that is not true the objective is to shift 
cash from my possession to that of the vendor which most seem to think is 
more easily done on an emotional level than a factual and intellectual level 
but I digress.

Some times it is just better to understand the process then work out how to 
achieve it without sight.

Perhaps Tom will remember us working through the sweating of copper pipe 
with the Educational Assistant and young high school lad a couple of years 
ago. She did not know the process so that is where we started then how I 
achieve it. Doubtless she had to improvise further to teach him how to 
achieve it and she did. There is, in my opinion, some merit in description 
of how things are done if for no other reason than to help grasp the 
concepts that sighted people can acquire by observation.

Another example that comes up in my life fairly often is having a sighted 
person tell me how to get somewhere. They don't describe the route the way I 
would describe it to another blind person, much of what they use for 
guidance has no meaning for me at all and they never or rarely have much 
sense of what might be meaningful in way finding for me but, with their 
input I am often armed with a good starting point to find my way in my way.

That reminds me, I should drop that lady a note to see how things are 
getting along, she must be an exceptional woman.


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: Ralph Supernaw [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 1:16 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] blind techniques


I agree that what makes this list especially useful are the tips and
 explanations for how to do things the blind way.  I can see some value in
 the information that does not pertain specifically to blind ways.  One of
 the challenges of being blind is that finding information is more
 time-consuming and difficult than for sighted people.  Therefore, it is 
 nice
 to have that information run through my inbox. (actually my Blind Handyman
 folder).  I can imagine that for those of you who have more knowledge and
 experience than a someone like me might get irritated at having tow weed
 through it all.

 Bottom line, though, is that the tips and discussions about how to do 
 things
 the blind way are the cream.

 Ralph




 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 To listen to the show archives go to link
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 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in Varnish

2006-10-17 Thread Dale Leavens
Max,

I have a feeling that is a common problem for us blind folk applying finish. 
We perceive the need to really get a good covering. It is one way to insure 
the entire surface gets coated, to apply lots and work back and forth and so 
on. It just is instinctively right.

When it comes to finishing though, this isn't quite right. I understand from 
talking to spray painters that it is best to apply very thin coats, this 
keeps the paint or lacquer from accumulating and forming drips and runs and 
the solvents can evaporate much more quickly resulting in a much shorter 
open time, no surface tension or skin to hold the solvents so the finish 
sets up harder and with a shorter cure time, less opportunity for specks of 
dust and fly sh*t to stick in it.

The other thing is that a thick finish is also more likely to chip and 
crack. Because eyes can see that the surface is covered or the colour or 
shine or what ever is consistent they can stop at the desired effect.

I have and still continue to apply finishes to many projects and I still 
tend to apply way too much finish although I am getting slowly better. In 
the end I buff and rub and grind off a lot between coats which uses up a lot 
of time and material but the outcome is usually pretty good. It could be 
more efficiently achieved  but it is as good as I can do.

I like the foam brushes for paint too and they have the advantage of 
disposability but I do use a lot getting the finish as I want. I like the 
little disposable rollers for applying contact cement and working with 
fiberglass resin. Those were tips given to me by a sighted chap, it makes 
laying that sticky stuff down a lot easier.


Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 3:08 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in Varnish


 this is one reason that I've had luck with paddle, or sponge brushes.
 I've been told that sighted folks can get it really really right. but most
 would rather spray and put hardly a coat on it though it looks just fine.
 (too fine, or thin if you ask me)

 On Tue, 17 Oct 2006, Dan Rossi wrote:

 I have to agree with Dale,

 After talking with many people about finishes, my sighted friends always
 complain about how difficult it is to get a perfect finish without brush
 strokes visible.  The finishes feel fine, but you can see the marks.  I
 find it hard to believe that finger painting a finish would have a good
 visible finish.  I'm sure it feels perfectly smooth, that is a function 
 of
 sanding and buffing, but I have my doubts as to the visible effect.

 -- 
 Blue skies.
 Dan Rossi
 Carnegie Mellon University.
 E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Tel: (412) 268-9081


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The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files 

[BlindHandyMan] slip joint leak: I messed up?

2006-10-17 Thread Tom Fowle
so I tried to clear a kitchen double sink drain with a
plunger,it's worked in the past, and noticed a couple days later
water all over the floor!

We had a large plastic drawer under the sink in the cupboard for
cleaning stuff, and that had filled up with drain water before
spilling over so we'd notice.  So we hadn't needed cleaning stuff
in the meantime.

So we drug it all out, tossed the stuff that was soaked, mopped,
mopped and mopped and got it more or less dry.

then we remembered we have at least two wet dry vacuums which
might just have made things easier? groan

I found a slip joint nut at the end of the drain just below the
sink that had split.

so I took the thing apart and took the little 2 inch long
connector piece with two nuts on it, and a little plastic flange
that presumably is a washer between the drain end and the flange
of the pipe and went down to our nice old ace hardware store.

I got four new nuts knowing how things go.  Came in little
plastic packages with rubber washers and all. Only a buck and a
half each, cheap!

got home this evening after a day of 400 emails and downloads and
meetings and so on, and put things back together.  I was so, so
carefull not to cross thread the nuts.  I tightened up on the
upper nut that's against the drain first, cause the lower one is
the one that is a real slip joint.

got it all fairly tight and put a pair of slip joint pliers on it
just to get it firm, not too hard.

Drip, drip, drip, and blasphemy!

I was stamping around wondering what was wrong, and hit something
small with my large blind foot.

It was the little plastic flange that was supposed to go on top
of the pipe, against the drain end.


took it all apart, it isn't really that hard, and put the flange
in.

Put it back together and when tightening up the upper nut, it
popped loose just as it was tight.

More speaking to spirits of the sewer in their language!

wondered if I'd stripped the top nut somehow so took it all apart
again and replaced the upper nut.

Put it all back again, so, so, so carefully!

Drip,drip, drip!

Well onlyh with a heavy flow of water.

So I guess I may have stripped the threads on the end of the
drain its self.  That takes a huge rench, bigger than i believe
is my largest crescent.

And what happens when you undo that huge nut that's been there
for over 30 years?

Other stuff will undoubtedly bust, I just know it.

So, oh wise and wonderfull handy persons, where did I go wrong?

Besides using too much force on a 30 yeaar old sink wwith a
plunger?

Now be nice, tell me I didn't mess up, it was just age.

Like how I'm falling apart after sixty!
It's just age.
that's what my doc says when I complain about sstuff that annoys
me, it's just age.


sorry its so long, my wife isn't here to hear me speaking nasty
things so I just had to go off.

Tom



 


Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered


To listen to the show archives go to link
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] slip joint leak: I messed up?

2006-10-17 Thread Dale Leavens
I wonder if years of harsh chemicals have damaged the tail piece of the 
sink? or maybe even the gasket between the drain basket and the body of the 
sink?

The thing is to discover where the water is coming from. Eyes can often see 
small drips forming but once the fingers are damp they don't see a damn 
thing.

I have sometimes found that a supply of paper towel so you can dry 
thoroughly and then wrap a dry piece around the pipe helps to discover that 
damp point where the water appears. You move your way up and down the pipe 
with pieces of this paper towel until you locate the source. It isn't always 
obvious and may not be where you think.



Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


- Original Message - 
From: Tom Fowle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 11:21 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] slip joint leak: I messed up?


 so I tried to clear a kitchen double sink drain with a
 plunger,it's worked in the past, and noticed a couple days later
 water all over the floor!

 We had a large plastic drawer under the sink in the cupboard for
 cleaning stuff, and that had filled up with drain water before
 spilling over so we'd notice.  So we hadn't needed cleaning stuff
 in the meantime.

 So we drug it all out, tossed the stuff that was soaked, mopped,
 mopped and mopped and got it more or less dry.

 then we remembered we have at least two wet dry vacuums which
 might just have made things easier? groan

 I found a slip joint nut at the end of the drain just below the
 sink that had split.

 so I took the thing apart and took the little 2 inch long
 connector piece with two nuts on it, and a little plastic flange
 that presumably is a washer between the drain end and the flange
 of the pipe and went down to our nice old ace hardware store.

 I got four new nuts knowing how things go.  Came in little
 plastic packages with rubber washers and all. Only a buck and a
 half each, cheap!

 got home this evening after a day of 400 emails and downloads and
 meetings and so on, and put things back together.  I was so, so
 carefull not to cross thread the nuts.  I tightened up on the
 upper nut that's against the drain first, cause the lower one is
 the one that is a real slip joint.

 got it all fairly tight and put a pair of slip joint pliers on it
 just to get it firm, not too hard.

 Drip, drip, drip, and blasphemy!

 I was stamping around wondering what was wrong, and hit something
 small with my large blind foot.

 It was the little plastic flange that was supposed to go on top
 of the pipe, against the drain end.


 took it all apart, it isn't really that hard, and put the flange
 in.

 Put it back together and when tightening up the upper nut, it
 popped loose just as it was tight.

 More speaking to spirits of the sewer in their language!

 wondered if I'd stripped the top nut somehow so took it all apart
 again and replaced the upper nut.

 Put it all back again, so, so, so carefully!

 Drip,drip, drip!

 Well onlyh with a heavy flow of water.

 So I guess I may have stripped the threads on the end of the
 drain its self.  That takes a huge rench, bigger than i believe
 is my largest crescent.

 And what happens when you undo that huge nut that's been there
 for over 30 years?

 Other stuff will undoubtedly bust, I just know it.

 So, oh wise and wonderfull handy persons, where did I go wrong?

 Besides using too much force on a 30 yeaar old sink wwith a
 plunger?

 Now be nice, tell me I didn't mess up, it was just age.

 Like how I'm falling apart after sixty!
 It's just age.
 that's what my doc says when I complain about sstuff that annoys
 me, it's just age.


 sorry its so long, my wife isn't here to hear me speaking nasty
 things so I just had to go off.

 Tom






 Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered


 To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From 
 Various List Members At The Following Address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Adventures in Varnish

2006-10-17 Thread Dale Leavens
The first thing is to start with good stock. This may seem self evident but 
usually us handy folk work cheap or are a little afraid of ruining quality 
material. It gets better with experience but part of the DIY appeal is to go 
cheap. If your wood looks good to begin with you are already much of the way 
there.

The next thing is just how good does it have to look? I mean, if it is but 
ugly no one wants it in the living room but often a DIY project is the more 
charming because it is personal.

Now staining, which is probably the most popular pre-finish may be done by a 
blind person but it is my experience and what I understand that there are 
only a couple of reasons for stain, to enhance the natural grain of the 
wood, to blend the colour among pieces of wood which will vary a bit or to 
actually change the tone or colour of the wood used. Various parts of the 
wood will stain darker than others and much of the beauty of staining is in 
blending those variances. No batter how evenly and cleverly the stain is 
applied, the sighted stainer will probably wish to rub a little more in some 
places, wipe away some of the stain in other places which are darkening too 
much or too quickly. I don't think this is reliably done by a total and 
probably not all that well done by quite low vision persons. If the material 
is very homogenous and you get lucky then maybe. My solution is to get 
someone with taste and vision to stain. There are those opaque stains, I use 
a very very dark brown what is called walnut stain to colour the trim around 
my shed and a couple of benches around the place but that is more like 
paint, nothing shows through it is just a matter of covering to protect the 
wood and give contrast to the building, it is long over due for more, that 
isn't quite the same thing though.

I really recommend Minwax wipe-on poly for the top coats. This is clear and 
goes on with a rag and very quickly. I sand between coats and tack it off 
carefully. If you plan out your strategy, start high and work from back to 
front along the grain you won't miss much and what you miss you will blend 
on subsequent coats. It comes in about three ranges of gloss which also are 
degrees of hardness, the high gloss being the hardest but not everyone likes 
that high gloss finish. Much of the time I do like it. I have some tables I 
made here, the tops are round, made of birch plywood and well stained by one 
of my daughters. I used several coats of that really hard poly used for 
finishing hardwood floors on the table tops, I warmed the varnish before 
applying thin coats with careful buffing between, the surfaces are like 
glass but also virtually indestructible. the bases are essentially 8 sided 
boxes cut to form double doors, a good place to toss games and other 
detritus that tend to collect in the living room, I did not use as glossy a 
finish on the bases, the point being to armour the tops.

I have been experimenting with rotten stone in a little mineral oil to 
polish between coats but so far the best I have found is car wax rubbing 
compound. I use Simonize but have used other products, it has a very fine 
particle suspended in what feels a lot like hard wax. It does a wonderful 
job between coats and can be used after the final coat as well and can be 
used to remove any minor scratches which may result from use.

If you come to enjoy cabinet making and I do, you will probably want more 
and better tools which will let you perform better and more sophisticated 
joinery.

I recently made a little cabinet for the girls who clerk at our Imaging and 
Lab reception. They are getting overuse syndromes from reaching across the 
desk to receive paper work and then they have a number and variety of forms 
to be completed for various agencies like public health and so on. These 
were in a vertical stand on the desk requiring more shoulder elevation. 
Anyway, the computer CPU was in front of their station with the monitor on 
it, that height had to be maintained so I made a device the same height as 
the CPU but wider so that two sets of forms would fit side-by-side, with 
four sliding trays in each side. I had some half inch maple plywood left 
over from another project, I thought I might dovetail the sides to the top 
but too wide for my jig, I decided to try mitering them on a 45 and secure 
with under sized biscuits. It can be remarkably difficult to accurately do 
this on a table saw, the cut too wide for my miter saw but I also have a 
jointer which, when carefully set up cut those angles absolutely true. This 
requires absolute accuracy because the veneer is very thin and you don't 
want the edge showing and for sure you don't want any of the plywood core to 
show.

My point is that in the past I have tried making that sort of joint but 
given up as I just didn't have the type or quality of tool for that sort of 
accuracy. Neither, I might add did I have the skill.

the middle partition which separates the 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] blind techniques

2006-10-17 Thread Lee A. Stone

I know from what I have learned from this list in the last few years 
that a previous contractor   gave it a shove with no vasaline  for my 
roofing job. that is why we are replacing a roof in less than 20 years. 
actually only 2 out of 8 contractors this past year have suggested, as 
you have on this list  installing the heavier shingles. I will not do 
this job as in my opinion  the roof is far to steep for someone who is 
not a trained roofer. nothing to do with blindness. Like Hailey , I want 
to know what to expect, what to feel and if I get screwed this time, it 
is my fault. . actually the man I am waiting for did a Friends roof 
early this ummer j just a block away.. I have done a few small jobs 
working with pvc pipe  and it was because I learned  from this list , so 
I extend a hand of thanks to all who share what they know. Lee, PS, I 
could use a full time plumber but could not afford the rates to keep up 
with things that go wrong in a house which was built  I think in 1951 
and it was built in a hurry, as we slowly find out. Lee


-- 
Arguments with furniture are rarely productive.
-- Kehlog Albran, The Profit


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] blind techniques

2006-10-17 Thread rj
Lee,

I agree with this statement,. Two years ago was my last roofing job. And it
isn't because I am blind, just old.
RJ



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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Bugs

2006-10-17 Thread Robert J. Moore
Hi up here in Minnesota where we raise a lot of soy beans we have a lot of
these bugs that we genarically call Ladie bugs. Some call them African or
asian beedles. They are a little domed shape bug with a hard shell. They
kind of just look like a little round bump like you would find on the home
row of some key boards. Now that I have described them the best I can.
How do you get rid of the darned things without using chemicals? I remember
some one posting about those plugg in gagetts that put out a frequency.
Does any one know if they work spacifically on lady buggs?

My brother and his wife have one and it works great for flies and spiders
and the like but I don't know about ladie bugs.
Just because it works for one thing does not garentee that it will work for
other things and I just hate to piss away money on some thing that is not
tried and true.
So not to be rude but please no guesses I only want to hear what if any
thing has actually worked consistantly for ladie bugs.




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