Re: [BlindHandyMan] Desk Grommets Hole Saws
File out the hole. half round metal. Wood rasp half round if it is wood. Drop down that size one notch, sometimes a custom fit is a nice fitZ-man blind Power - Original Message - From: Bill Gallik To: Blind Handy Man Sent: Monday, August 03, 2009 9:25 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Desk Grommets Hole Saws Can anybody explain why the hole saws I've used (1, 2 3) do not cut a hole that snugly fits the (1, 2 3) desk grommets I purchased from Menard's? What I wound up with was a hole just slightly larger than the indicated size of the corresponding grommet. Yet, if I drop down to the next smaller size (7/8) the 1 grommet cannot fit into the resulting hole. Can anybody explain what is to be done to end up with a hole that snugly holds the desk grommet? ---*---*---*---*---*---*--- Holland's Person, Bill E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net - Anonymous (from my source of goofy stuff) - Eggs and Bacon for Breakfast - An entire day commitment for a chicken. - A Lifetime Commitment for a Pig [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon
Ed, That's a huge set of specs, I doubt there is anything. sounds to me like the fix is going to be more trouble than just replacing the siding, but then I'm not there. I'll ask. Tom
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon
Hi Tom, I'm beginning to think you're right. More and more, it's beginning to look like a mechanical solution (screws, pop rivets, etc.) will be a better solution. Any information your technician might provide, though, may still prove helpful. Thanks. Take care, Ed From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tom Fowle Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 1:35 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon Ed, That's a huge set of specs, I doubt there is anything. sounds to me like the fix is going to be more trouble than just replacing the siding, but then I'm not there. I'll ask. Tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon
What exactly is wrong with your siding? If it is just coming apart and there isn't any seperation of the locking channel, it would be easier to get a unzipping tool to loosen the siding, pull the nails, move them up a fraction of an inch, and then rezip the siding. - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 3:02 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon Hi Tom, I'm beginning to think you're right. More and more, it's beginning to look like a mechanical solution (screws, pop rivets, etc.) will be a better solution. Any information your technician might provide, though, may still prove helpful. Thanks. Take care, Ed From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tom Fowle Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 1:35 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon Ed, That's a huge set of specs, I doubt there is anything. sounds to me like the fix is going to be more trouble than just replacing the siding, but then I'm not there. I'll ask. Tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Choosing non-toxic paints and finishes
Sift through the product hype and understand what you're buying when it comes to safer paints You may be getting more than a splash of colour when you paint. According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), our indoor air is often more polluted than outdoor air and one of the culprits is common household paint. http://ad.doubleclick.net/click;h=v8/3880/0/0/%2a/j;44306;0-0;0;31735541;22 39-360/90;0/0/0;;~aopt=2/1/4d/0;~sscs=%3f Click here to find out more! Dangerous fumes Due to their complex chemicals, conventional paints and finishes off-gas Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) for months after being applied. Since these chemicals are neurotoxins, inhaling them over long periods can be a health hazard, particularly for younger children. VOCs have been known to cause eye, nose and throat irritations as well as nausea, dizziness and headaches. That light-headed feeling you get after painting is actually a reaction to low-level toxins. Industry-changing Fortunately, new regulations from the federal government, first introduced in 2005 along with increased consumer awareness have created a demand for low-VOC paints and finishes. In the past, like many industries, the paint industry really wasn't fully aware of the impact of all those solvents in the air and how they contribute to problem VOCs, says Ed Linton, manager of environmental and safety compliance at Cloverdale Paint http://www.cloverdalepaint.com/ . Now that we realize what those impacts are, we're making changes. Cloverdale is just one of the many companies developing greener and cleaner paints. Its Horizon line of interior paints and primers currently has the lowest VOC on the market (less than one gram/litre). Reducing pollution Low VOC paints have a number of environmental benefits. The easy cleanup with soap and water means less contamination of groundwater and less waste heading for the landfill. Since there are so little fumes, you can occupy the painted room sooner. Their performance is equal to most other paints in terms of coverage and cleaning. Finding the right paint But with even more choices out there, finding a low-toxicity paint can get a bit confusing. Prices are the same as most mid-range conventional paint, but there are different types of low-VOC paints and finishes. 1. Natural paints Natural paints and finishes are the safest since they use natural raw ingredients. Popular elements include milk casein and natural latex, along with minerals, such as clay, chalk and talcum. Natural oils and beeswax are often used for finishes. These paints have no VOCs and very few people are allergic to them. Try: * Old Fashioned Milk Products http://www.canadianhomeworkshop.com/tools-and-materials/materials/choosing- non-toxic-paints-and-finishes/a/(http:/www.milkpaint.com/purchase_dealer.htm l) , available in 20 shades * Real http://www.realmilkpaint.com/vendors.html#canada Milk Paint, available in 28 shades * TimberSoy http://www.greenhomeoutfitters.com/category_s/215.htm , natural wood stain made from soy, available in 12 colours 2. Low-VOC paints Since low-VOC paints use water as a carrier, they often have low levels of heavy metals and other chemicals. They still off-gas, but it doesn't stay around as long. Be careful with this label since there are currently no real guidelines in place yet. Environment Canada's standard is 250 grams per litre, but reputable dealers will only advertise their paint as low VOC when it has 50 g/L or less. Try: * Cloverdale Horizon http://www.cloverdalepaint.com/home_owners/choosing_paint/environmentally_f riendly_paint.htm , available in over 50 colours * Sherwin Williams http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_it_yourself/sherwin_williams_products/gr een/ , Duration Home Harmony, available in over 50 shades * Sico http://www.sico.ca/En/Produits_Environnement.asp 's Cashmere, Chamois and Shantung line, available in four shades * Benjamin Moore Aura Interior Paint http://www.benjaminmoore.com/bmpsweb/portals/bmps.portal?_nfpb=true_pageLa bel=fh_aura_hiddenPageNodeUUID=/BEA%20Repository/518032 , available in 144 shades * C2 http://www.c2paint.com/our-products/index.php 's LoVo line, available in over 300 colours 3. Zero-VOC paints Zero-VOC is a trickier label. Technically there is no such thing as zero-VOC paints since all paints have chemicals, colourants, biocides and fungicides-which all off-gas. Like Low-VOC paints, the off-gassing is shorter and less toxic. A paint is considered zero-VOC if it's under five grams/litre. Check the label carefully on these products. Try: * Benjamin Moore http://www.benjaminmoore.com/bmpsweb/portals/bmps.portal?_nfpb=true_pageLa bel=fh_homeindexPage=true 's Natura line, available in four shades [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Make sure you have the right extinguisher ready to go
1. Do you have a fire extinguisher in your shop? 2. Where is it exactly? 3. Is it functional or in need of a recharge? 4. What type(s) of fire(s) is it made for? If you can't answer all four, it's definitely worth taking the time to make sure both you and your extinguisher are ready to go at a moment's notice. After all, when it comes to fires, there's a saying: When seconds count, the fire department is only minutes away. Since there are multiple fire hazards in your shop, it is important that you have an extinguisher that is suited to the three types of fires that can occur: http://ad.doubleclick.net/click;h=v8/3880/0/0/%2a/v;44306;0-0;0;31732813;22 39-360/90;0/0/0;;~aopt=2/1/4d/0;~sscs=%3f Click here to find out more! Type A Burning solids such as wood, paper, rags, etc. Because a Type A extinguisher will contain water, it must not be used on Type B or C fires. Type B Chemical fires, which can include oil, gasoline, solvents and alcohol, which are all common in the workshop. Type B extinguishers contain a dry chemical to smother the fire, making them ineffective on Type A and C fires. Type C Electrical fires. Electrical fires require rapid cooling, and extinguishers generally contain CO2. Type A/B/C units contain a chemical that both cools (for Type A and C) and smothers (for Type B) at the same time. For general shop use, a large combination (Type A/B/C) extinguisher is your best bet, as the chances of making matters worse by using the wrong type are eliminated. Don't let an oily rag or an errant spark destroy your shop. Take a few minutes and give your extinguisher the attention it deserves; it could be the best shop investment you ever make. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Desk Grommets Hole Saws
they make these with 2 spinning blades. They are available several places, I got mine at McMaster Carr supply. They say these things are only good for drill presses as they are challenging. I've often used it to *draw my hole and then I've used either a sabersaw (4 inch or bigger) or a router to cut away the material when I didn't want to go through with the spinners. On Tue, 4 Aug 2009, Darrin Porter wrote: A couple of thoughts and a suggestion: Measure the actual size of the hole you cut to see how close to one inch it really is. If you were doing it with a hand drill as apposed to a drill press, the vibration of the tool and your inability to hold the drill perfectly vertical and still may have wallowed out the hole a little. Measure the grommet to see how close to one inch the OD really is. My only suggestion is to buy a circle cutter. I got mine from Sears about twenty years ago. I assume they still sell them. If you're not familiar with this tool, it is similar to a hole saw. It has a pilot bit that drills about a quarter-inch hole in the center of the circle. But, instead of having a round saw that actually cuts the hole, it has an adhjustable blade so you can make any size hole you want.. The chief drawback is that it is difficult to control if you don't have strong hands, since you are essentially spinning, at high speed, an off-center load. The pilot bit helps steady it, but it still takes a bit of getting used to. Darrin Darrin Porter Senior Technical Engineer United Ocean Services, L.L.C. 601 South Harbour Island Boulevard, Suite 230 Tampa, Florida 33602 (813) 209-4247 (office) (813) 744-0011 (cellular phone) (813) 242-4849 (fax) darrin.por...@united-mar.commmailto:darrin.por...@united-mar.comm From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bill Gallik Sent: Monday, August 03, 2009 9:25 PM To: Blind Handy Man Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Desk Grommets Hole Saws Can anybody explain why the hole saws I've used (1, 2 3) do not cut a hole that snugly fits the (1, 2 3) desk grommets I purchased from Menard's? What I wound up with was a hole just slightly larger than the indicated size of the corresponding grommet. Yet, if I drop down to the next smaller size (7/8) the 1 grommet cannot fit into the resulting hole. Can anybody explain what is to be done to end up with a hole that snugly holds the desk grommet? ---*---*---*---*---*---*--- Holland's Person, Bill E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.netmailto:BillGallik%40CenturyTel.net - Anonymous (from my source of goofy stuff) - Eggs and Bacon for Breakfast - An entire day commitment for a chicken. - A Lifetime Commitment for a Pig Attention: This email and any accompanying attachments constitute confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you have received this email communication in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the message and any attachments from your system. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: Patio project update.
whew. you are to be commended: I'd offer more but the weight of the commendation will have me growning with help as it is. On Tue, 4 Aug 2009, Dale Leavens wrote: The truck just left. The chap unloading was pretty darn good. He happily dropped the loads exactly where I wanted them. He showed me the boom truck, he has a long cable with a pendant control pad on the end of it from which he operates the clam for lifting the pavers and then adds a fork to lift the pallets for the retaining wall stones. First time I have actually got up close and personal with such a truck. He was pretty interested in the work I have done and intends to come back for pictures when I am done. I gather his boss uses them for sort of promotional material. So far 16 bundles of pavers, four of Royal Gray retaining wall and another of big buggers the name of which I just forget. The remaining 14 bundles of pavers and 30 curbs come in a week or so. I doubt I will be ready for them by then but they will be ready for me. - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 2009 11:30 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: Patio project update. Hi Dan, You might like to investigate those retaining wall bricks. There are several configurations, one bunch I am getting today have a textured face and a flange hanging down at the rear. Each course sits about half an inch back of the previous course, maybe a little less. You can stick them together with construction adhesive and they even have cap stones for a top finish it you prefer. Beats the heck out of mixing and buttering with mortar and all that means. The dirt behind forces them forward keeping them in place. You can even form steps by laying a row then a cap and another row behind that. You should stick the steps as it might be possible to tip the cap stone if standing on it's edge particularly if you hang it over a little for best visual effect. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 2009 11:06 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: Patio project update. Dale, I am tired just reading about your progress. Makes my basement door thing seem pathetically small in comparison. I dug a hole in the bottom of the pit on Sunday. I sunk a large plastic sump into the hole. I dumped a bunch of gravel at the bottom of this secondary hole, punched a bunch of holes in the bottom of the plastic sump and placed the sump into the hole and dumped a bit more gravel into the sump to weight it down a bit and keep it from shifting too much. There is a lid on the sump and there will be a drain passing through the cement slab and draining into the sump. There will also be some of that 4 inch perforated pipe running around the outside of the pit and dumping into the sump. This will hopefully keep the pit reasonably dry except in the case of continuous rain for several days. Now I just have to haul all the cement up the stairs and I can pour the slab. Then I'll just have to haul all the cement blocks up the stairs and build the walls of the pit. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
