RE: [BlindHandyMan] Desk Grommets Hole Saws
Two blades would sure help the balance problem. Mine has only one blade. I have cut many holes with it, however using a hand drill. It's a bit challenging, but can be done. A little scary when you're doing something like cutting a hole in a door to install a lock set since you only have one shot to get it right! Darrin Darrin Porter Senior Technical Engineer United Ocean Services, L.L.C. 601 South Harbour Island Boulevard, Suite 230 Tampa, Florida 33602 (813) 209-4247 (office) (813) 744-0011 (cellular phone) (813) 242-4849 (fax) darrin.por...@united-mar.commmailto:darrin.por...@united-mar.comm From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Spiro Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 8:27 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Desk Grommets Hole Saws they make these with 2 spinning blades. They are available several places, I got mine at McMaster Carr supply. They say these things are only good for drill presses as they are challenging. I've often used it to *draw my hole and then I've used either a sabersaw (4 inch or bigger) or a router to cut away the material when I didn't want to go through with the spinners. On Tue, 4 Aug 2009, Darrin Porter wrote: A couple of thoughts and a suggestion: Measure the actual size of the hole you cut to see how close to one inch it really is. If you were doing it with a hand drill as apposed to a drill press, the vibration of the tool and your inability to hold the drill perfectly vertical and still may have wallowed out the hole a little. Measure the grommet to see how close to one inch the OD really is. My only suggestion is to buy a circle cutter. I got mine from Sears about twenty years ago. I assume they still sell them. If you're not familiar with this tool, it is similar to a hole saw. It has a pilot bit that drills about a quarter-inch hole in the center of the circle. But, instead of having a round saw that actually cuts the hole, it has an adhjustable blade so you can make any size hole you want.. The chief drawback is that it is difficult to control if you don't have strong hands, since you are essentially spinning, at high speed, an off-center load. The pilot bit helps steady it, but it still takes a bit of getting used to. Darrin Darrin Porter Senior Technical Engineer United Ocean Services, L.L.C. 601 South Harbour Island Boulevard, Suite 230 Tampa, Florida 33602 (813) 209-4247 (office) (813) 744-0011 (cellular phone) (813) 242-4849 (fax) darrin.por...@united-mar.commmailto:DARRIN.PORTER%40UNITED-MAR.COMMmailto:darrin.por...@united-mar.commmailto:DARRIN.PORTER%40UNITED-MAR.COMM From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bill Gallik Sent: Monday, August 03, 2009 9:25 PM To: Blind Handy Man Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Desk Grommets Hole Saws Can anybody explain why the hole saws I've used (1, 2 3) do not cut a hole that snugly fits the (1, 2 3) desk grommets I purchased from Menard's? What I wound up with was a hole just slightly larger than the indicated size of the corresponding grommet. Yet, if I drop down to the next smaller size (7/8) the 1 grommet cannot fit into the resulting hole. Can anybody explain what is to be done to end up with a hole that snugly holds the desk grommet? ---*---*---*---*---*---*--- Holland's Person, Bill E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.netmailto:BillGallik%40CenturyTel.netmailto:BillGallik%40CenturyTel.net - Anonymous (from my source of goofy stuff) - Eggs and Bacon for Breakfast - An entire day commitment for a chicken. - A Lifetime Commitment for a Pig Attention: This email and any accompanying attachments constitute confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you have received this email communication in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the message and any attachments from your system. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Attention: This email and any accompanying attachments constitute confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you have received this email communication in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the message and any attachments from your system. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon
Hi, That's the problem. There is a piece of siding that's not latched to the piece below it for about half its length. If I move the offending piece up enough to latch it to the piece below it, then the next piece up will no longer latch to the one that was moved up. Given this situation, each piece of siding will need to be moved up until the top of the wall is reached. This means moving up all the siding on a wall that's about 30 feet wide and 30 high. I don't have the skills to do the job and I'd rather not pay to have it done if a simple fix on the offending piece is possible. I'm trying to come up with a fix that would extend the lip on the piece below the problem piece so that the loose piece will have more lip to latch onto. I'm sure that's all clear as mud but that's the problem. I think the clip I'm trying to fabricate will work but I need to get the right materials and a glue that will bond the material to itself as well as to the existing siding. A mechanical solution such as screws or pop rivets would work but there's not enough room and it would cause the siding to buldge in one or two places. Right now the loose piece is taped in place with silver duct tape so the wind doesn't blow it around too much. I'll work on the problem a little longer but if I don't get too far, it'll be time to call in the professionals. Let everyone know how it goes. This has become personal. Take care, Ed Przybylek From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of NLG Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 4:34 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon What exactly is wrong with your siding? If it is just coming apart and there isn't any seperation of the locking channel, it would be easier to get a unzipping tool to loosen the siding, pull the nails, move them up a fraction of an inch, and then rezip the siding. - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 3:02 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon Hi Tom, I'm beginning to think you're right. More and more, it's beginning to look like a mechanical solution (screws, pop rivets, etc.) will be a better solution. Any information your technician might provide, though, may still prove helpful. Thanks. Take care, Ed From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Tom Fowle Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 1:35 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon Ed, That's a huge set of specs, I doubt there is anything. sounds to me like the fix is going to be more trouble than just replacing the siding, but then I'm not there. I'll ask. Tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Landscaping blocks.
Dale mentioned using landscaping blocks instead of cinder blocks to build the walls around my basement door pit. OK, I like the idea, but I have a question about that. How can I do inside corners with landscaping blocks? Do they have special inside and outside corner blocks? Would I have to cut 45s on the ends of every block in the corners? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon
Ed does every section of siding have a slump in it at that spot for the entire 30 feet high? ...bob [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon
Hi Bob, No. This seems to be the only piece. I unzipped 2 pieces below and about 5 pieces above the loose piece and they all look fine. If I can fix the single loose piece, then the problem will be resolved. As I said, it's become personal at this point. Take care, Ed From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of chiliblindman Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 11:30 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon Ed does every section of siding have a slump in it at that spot for the entire 30 feet high? ...bob [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon
Edward. If you don't want to do the job right, than get some headless aluminum nails to match the siding. Nail the offending piece every 4 feet . Or cut off the nailing flang and drop itdown to hold the siding that u cut and lock the upper piece. RJ - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 10:34 Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon Hi, That's the problem. There is a piece of siding that's not latched to the piece below it for about half its length. If I move the offending piece up enough to latch it to the piece below it, then the next piece up will no longer latch to the one that was moved up. Given this situation, each piece of siding will need to be moved up until the top of the wall is reached. This means moving up all the siding on a wall that's about 30 feet wide and 30 high. I don't have the skills to do the job and I'd rather not pay to have it done if a simple fix on the offending piece is possible. I'm trying to come up with a fix that would extend the lip on the piece below the problem piece so that the loose piece will have more lip to latch onto. I'm sure that's all clear as mud but that's the problem. I think the clip I'm trying to fabricate will work but I need to get the right materials and a glue that will bond the material to itself as well as to the existing siding. A mechanical solution such as screws or pop rivets would work but there's not enough room and it would cause the siding to buldge in one or two places. Right now the loose piece is taped in place with silver duct tape so the wind doesn't blow it around too much. I'll work on the problem a little longer but if I don't get too far, it'll be time to call in the professionals. Let everyone know how it goes. This has become personal. Take care, Ed Przybylek From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of NLG Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 4:34 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon What exactly is wrong with your siding? If it is just coming apart and there isn't any seperation of the locking channel, it would be easier to get a unzipping tool to loosen the siding, pull the nails, move them up a fraction of an inch, and then rezip the siding. - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 3:02 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon Hi Tom, I'm beginning to think you're right. More and more, it's beginning to look like a mechanical solution (screws, pop rivets, etc.) will be a better solution. Any information your technician might provide, though, may still prove helpful. Thanks. Take care, Ed From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Tom Fowle Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 1:35 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon Ed, That's a huge set of specs, I doubt there is anything. sounds to me like the fix is going to be more trouble than just replacing the siding, but then I'm not there. I'll ask. Tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon
Hi RJ, My understanding, from people with whom I've discussed this problem, is that siding needs to be loose so it can expand and contract with changes in temperature. That's why the precut holes for nailing up the siding are slotted and why you don't hammer nails completely down. Extending the lip to give the loose siding more to latch onto still seems like my best solution. Take care, Ed Przybylek From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of RJ Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 12:45 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon Edward. If you don't want to do the job right, than get some headless aluminum nails to match the siding. Nail the offending piece every 4 feet . Or cut off the nailing flang and drop itdown to hold the siding that u cut and lock the upper piece. RJ - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 10:34 Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon Hi, That's the problem. There is a piece of siding that's not latched to the piece below it for about half its length. If I move the offending piece up enough to latch it to the piece below it, then the next piece up will no longer latch to the one that was moved up. Given this situation, each piece of siding will need to be moved up until the top of the wall is reached. This means moving up all the siding on a wall that's about 30 feet wide and 30 high. I don't have the skills to do the job and I'd rather not pay to have it done if a simple fix on the offending piece is possible. I'm trying to come up with a fix that would extend the lip on the piece below the problem piece so that the loose piece will have more lip to latch onto. I'm sure that's all clear as mud but that's the problem. I think the clip I'm trying to fabricate will work but I need to get the right materials and a glue that will bond the material to itself as well as to the existing siding. A mechanical solution such as screws or pop rivets would work but there's not enough room and it would cause the siding to buldge in one or two places. Right now the loose piece is taped in place with silver duct tape so the wind doesn't blow it around too much. I'll work on the problem a little longer but if I don't get too far, it'll be time to call in the professionals. Let everyone know how it goes. This has become personal. Take care, Ed Przybylek From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of NLG Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 4:34 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon What exactly is wrong with your siding? If it is just coming apart and there isn't any seperation of the locking channel, it would be easier to get a unzipping tool to loosen the siding, pull the nails, move them up a fraction of an inch, and then rezip the siding. - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 3:02 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon Hi Tom, I'm beginning to think you're right. More and more, it's beginning to look like a mechanical solution (screws, pop rivets, etc.) will be a better solution. Any information your technician might provide, though, may still prove helpful. Thanks. Take care, Ed From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Tom Fowle Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 1:35 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon Ed, That's a huge set of specs, I doubt there is anything. sounds to me like the fix is going to be more trouble than just replacing the siding, but then I'm not there. I'll ask. Tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Desk Grommets Hole Saws
I forgot to say that the single blade models are great for scoring. I think the one I got was called a fly cutter. On Thu, 6 Aug 2009, Darrin Porter wrote: Two blades would sure help the balance problem. Mine has only one blade. I have cut many holes with it, however using a hand drill. It's a bit challenging, but can be done. A little scary when you're doing something like cutting a hole in a door to install a lock set since you only have one shot to get it right! Darrin Darrin Porter Senior Technical Engineer United Ocean Services, L.L.C. 601 South Harbour Island Boulevard, Suite 230 Tampa, Florida 33602 (813) 209-4247 (office) (813) 744-0011 (cellular phone) (813) 242-4849 (fax) darrin.por...@united-mar.commmailto:darrin.por...@united-mar.comm From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Spiro Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 8:27 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Desk Grommets Hole Saws they make these with 2 spinning blades. They are available several places, I got mine at McMaster Carr supply. They say these things are only good for drill presses as they are challenging. I've often used it to *draw my hole and then I've used either a sabersaw (4 inch or bigger) or a router to cut away the material when I didn't want to go through with the spinners. On Tue, 4 Aug 2009, Darrin Porter wrote: A couple of thoughts and a suggestion: Measure the actual size of the hole you cut to see how close to one inch it really is. If you were doing it with a hand drill as apposed to a drill press, the vibration of the tool and your inability to hold the drill perfectly vertical and still may have wallowed out the hole a little. Measure the grommet to see how close to one inch the OD really is. My only suggestion is to buy a circle cutter. I got mine from Sears about twenty years ago. I assume they still sell them. If you're not familiar with this tool, it is similar to a hole saw. It has a pilot bit that drills about a quarter-inch hole in the center of the circle. But, instead of having a round saw that actually cuts the hole, it has an adhjustable blade so you can make any size hole you want.. The chief drawback is that it is difficult to control if you don't have strong hands, since you are essentially spinning, at high speed, an off-center load. The pilot bit helps steady it, but it still takes a bit of getting used to. Darrin Darrin Porter Senior Technical Engineer United Ocean Services, L.L.C. 601 South Harbour Island Boulevard, Suite 230 Tampa, Florida 33602 (813) 209-4247 (office) (813) 744-0011 (cellular phone) (813) 242-4849 (fax) darrin.por...@united-mar.commmailto:DARRIN.PORTER%40UNITED-MAR.COMMmailto:darrin.por...@united-mar.commmailto:DARRIN.PORTER%40UNITED-MAR.COMM From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bill Gallik Sent: Monday, August 03, 2009 9:25 PM To: Blind Handy Man Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Desk Grommets Hole Saws Can anybody explain why the hole saws I've used (1, 2 3) do not cut a hole that snugly fits the (1, 2 3) desk grommets I purchased from Menard's? What I wound up with was a hole just slightly larger than the indicated size of the corresponding grommet. Yet, if I drop down to the next smaller size (7/8) the 1 grommet cannot fit into the resulting hole. Can anybody explain what is to be done to end up with a hole that snugly holds the desk grommet? ---*---*---*---*---*---*--- Holland's Person, Bill E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.netmailto:BillGallik%40CenturyTel.netmailto:BillGallik%40CenturyTel.net - Anonymous (from my source of goofy stuff) - Eggs and Bacon for Breakfast - An entire day commitment for a chicken. - A Lifetime Commitment for a Pig Attention: This email and any accompanying attachments constitute confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you have received this email communication in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the message and any attachments from your system. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Attention: This email and any accompanying attachments constitute confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you have received this email communication in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the message and any attachments from your system. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Desk Grommets Hole Saws
I am not capable of keeping it straight enough, that the chunk chunk chunk won't ruin the work or avoid hurting my wrist. My only drill is a big Makita right now. Rather non forgiving. On Thu, 6 Aug 2009, Darrin Porter wrote: Two blades would sure help the balance problem. Mine has only one blade. I have cut many holes with it, however using a hand drill. It's a bit challenging, but can be done. A little scary when you're doing something like cutting a hole in a door to install a lock set since you only have one shot to get it right! Darrin Darrin Porter Senior Technical Engineer United Ocean Services, L.L.C. 601 South Harbour Island Boulevard, Suite 230 Tampa, Florida 33602 (813) 209-4247 (office) (813) 744-0011 (cellular phone) (813) 242-4849 (fax) darrin.por...@united-mar.commmailto:darrin.por...@united-mar.comm From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Spiro Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 8:27 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Desk Grommets Hole Saws they make these with 2 spinning blades. They are available several places, I got mine at McMaster Carr supply. They say these things are only good for drill presses as they are challenging. I've often used it to *draw my hole and then I've used either a sabersaw (4 inch or bigger) or a router to cut away the material when I didn't want to go through with the spinners. On Tue, 4 Aug 2009, Darrin Porter wrote: A couple of thoughts and a suggestion: Measure the actual size of the hole you cut to see how close to one inch it really is. If you were doing it with a hand drill as apposed to a drill press, the vibration of the tool and your inability to hold the drill perfectly vertical and still may have wallowed out the hole a little. Measure the grommet to see how close to one inch the OD really is. My only suggestion is to buy a circle cutter. I got mine from Sears about twenty years ago. I assume they still sell them. If you're not familiar with this tool, it is similar to a hole saw. It has a pilot bit that drills about a quarter-inch hole in the center of the circle. But, instead of having a round saw that actually cuts the hole, it has an adhjustable blade so you can make any size hole you want.. The chief drawback is that it is difficult to control if you don't have strong hands, since you are essentially spinning, at high speed, an off-center load. The pilot bit helps steady it, but it still takes a bit of getting used to. Darrin Darrin Porter Senior Technical Engineer United Ocean Services, L.L.C. 601 South Harbour Island Boulevard, Suite 230 Tampa, Florida 33602 (813) 209-4247 (office) (813) 744-0011 (cellular phone) (813) 242-4849 (fax) darrin.por...@united-mar.commmailto:DARRIN.PORTER%40UNITED-MAR.COMMmailto:darrin.por...@united-mar.commmailto:DARRIN.PORTER%40UNITED-MAR.COMM From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bill Gallik Sent: Monday, August 03, 2009 9:25 PM To: Blind Handy Man Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Desk Grommets Hole Saws Can anybody explain why the hole saws I've used (1, 2 3) do not cut a hole that snugly fits the (1, 2 3) desk grommets I purchased from Menard's? What I wound up with was a hole just slightly larger than the indicated size of the corresponding grommet. Yet, if I drop down to the next smaller size (7/8) the 1 grommet cannot fit into the resulting hole. Can anybody explain what is to be done to end up with a hole that snugly holds the desk grommet? ---*---*---*---*---*---*--- Holland's Person, Bill E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.netmailto:BillGallik%40CenturyTel.netmailto:BillGallik%40CenturyTel.net - Anonymous (from my source of goofy stuff) - Eggs and Bacon for Breakfast - An entire day commitment for a chicken. - A Lifetime Commitment for a Pig Attention: This email and any accompanying attachments constitute confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you have received this email communication in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the message and any attachments from your system. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Attention: This email and any accompanying attachments constitute confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you have received this email communication in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the message and any attachments from your system. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Desk Grommets Hole Saws
O.K. I have to say it, fly cutters are intended for drill presses. Every professional machinist I've asked about them say they are the most dangerous tool they know of. I can't imagine holding a hand drill stable enough to get a round hole with one. A good hole saw is the tool for hand work. Tom Fowle
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon
is it too far out to suggest that you form a lip/lock shape extension the size of the gap? Maybe out of something like plumbers epoxy? you can work with that stuff, it will be the intended locking shape, as well as the shape of the gap. Once it hardens, you can paint it the right color. Before it hardens you can stick a piece of pecs through it to the wall at each end. Use those as stainless screw holes that you can insert just before final hardening to take whatever shape you need. Or, you can drill the hole there and squeeze some construction cement into it. Maybe? On Thu, 6 Aug 2009, Edward Przybylek wrote: Hi, That's the problem. There is a piece of siding that's not latched to the piece below it for about half its length. If I move the offending piece up enough to latch it to the piece below it, then the next piece up will no longer latch to the one that was moved up. Given this situation, each piece of siding will need to be moved up until the top of the wall is reached. This means moving up all the siding on a wall that's about 30 feet wide and 30 high. I don't have the skills to do the job and I'd rather not pay to have it done if a simple fix on the offending piece is possible. I'm trying to come up with a fix that would extend the lip on the piece below the problem piece so that the loose piece will have more lip to latch onto. I'm sure that's all clear as mud but that's the problem. I think the clip I'm trying to fabricate will work but I need to get the right materials and a glue that will bond the material to itself as well as to the existing siding. A mechanical solution such as screws or pop rivets would work but there's not enough room and it would cause the siding to buldge in one or two places. Right now the loose piece is taped in place with silver duct tape so the wind doesn't blow it around too much. I'll work on the problem a little longer but if I don't get too far, it'll be time to call in the professionals. Let everyone know how it goes. This has become personal. Take care, Ed Przybylek From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of NLG Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 4:34 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon What exactly is wrong with your siding? If it is just coming apart and there isn't any seperation of the locking channel, it would be easier to get a unzipping tool to loosen the siding, pull the nails, move them up a fraction of an inch, and then rezip the siding. - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 3:02 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon Hi Tom, I'm beginning to think you're right. More and more, it's beginning to look like a mechanical solution (screws, pop rivets, etc.) will be a better solution. Any information your technician might provide, though, may still prove helpful. Thanks. Take care, Ed From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Tom Fowle Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 1:35 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon Ed, That's a huge set of specs, I doubt there is anything. sounds to me like the fix is going to be more trouble than just replacing the siding, but then I'm not there. I'll ask. Tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Desk Grommets Hole Saws
it can be done, it can be done. I've done it, and as I am no longer an adrenalin junkie I won't anymore. One must go very very slowly and pay great attention to the *feel of the cutter. Two cutters are so much easier, but still require patience. I like to use it to make an inside and outside groove and get the router bit in there and clear away what's between them. A hole saw for 5 inch is very expensive at most places and a span longer is back to that single fly. But for making a deep tangible mark it's greatly useful. On Thu, 6 Aug 2009, Tom Fowle wrote: O.K. I have to say it, fly cutters are intended for drill presses. Every professional machinist I've asked about them say they are the most dangerous tool they know of. I can't imagine holding a hand drill stable enough to get a round hole with one. A good hole saw is the tool for hand work. Tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Desk Grommets Hole Saws
I thought a fly cutter was used in a vertical mill. I used those in machinist school. earlier, Tom Fowle, wrote: O.K. I have to say it, fly cutters are intended for drill presses. Every professional machinist I've asked about them say they are the most dangerous tool they know of. I can't imagine holding a hand drill stable enough to get a round hole with one. A good hole saw is the tool for hand work. Tom Fowle John [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] RE: fly cutters, was whole saws etc.
Yes vertical mill or drill press. Tom
[BlindHandyMan] Replacing Fence Rails
Hi All Well we replaced the last 88 feet of wooden 3 x2 fence rails yesterday with top cap 50 galvanised steel channels. These channels are like a pyramid shape with a one inch flat on the bottom feet and a one inch flat at the top. You screw the feet directly to the galvanised posts and the fence sheets are screwed to the one inch top thus hiding the screws inside the pyramid. Now I will have to cut up the wood rails ready for dispatch to the dump. Another job completed. Ray [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Replacing Fence Rails
Ray, Wouldn't those old rails make good firewood? Or are they soaked with creosote? Tom On Fri, Aug 07, 2009 at 06:30:08AM +1000, Ray Boyce wrote: Hi All Well we replaced the last 88 feet of wooden 3 x2 fence rails yesterday with top cap 50 galvanised steel channels. These channels are like a pyramid shape with a one inch flat on the bottom feet and a one inch flat at the top. You screw the feet directly to the galvanised posts and the fence sheets are screwed to the one inch top thus hiding the screws inside the pyramid. Now I will have to cut up the wood rails ready for dispatch to the dump. Another job completed. Ray [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon
I haven't been following the nylon glue issue so I don't understand what nylon has to do with this, the siding will be vinyl or aluminum won't it? Might one solution be a strip of something, maybe thin aluminum or shaped thin hardwood sized and formed to fit under the catch and over the lip of the offending piece? The siding is usually loosely nailed so it can expand and contract with changing temperature. Might it be possible to lower the bottom piece by sliding it down a touch and raise the upper piece a touch and engage the channels that way? Finally, I am a real fan of silicone calking as an adhesive. Might you cut a really small hole in the tip of a tube of silicone calking, get it up under the edge of the upper piece and apply a dab or two at intervals. If you hold the lower edge down a bit with a hook then press the bottom hard against the piece below and allow the hooked edge to rise again might you be able to get a bit of goo between the lip and the hook above? Pick a calm day so it has a chance to bond before the wind begins pulling on it. - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 10:34 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon Hi, That's the problem. There is a piece of siding that's not latched to the piece below it for about half its length. If I move the offending piece up enough to latch it to the piece below it, then the next piece up will no longer latch to the one that was moved up. Given this situation, each piece of siding will need to be moved up until the top of the wall is reached. This means moving up all the siding on a wall that's about 30 feet wide and 30 high. I don't have the skills to do the job and I'd rather not pay to have it done if a simple fix on the offending piece is possible. I'm trying to come up with a fix that would extend the lip on the piece below the problem piece so that the loose piece will have more lip to latch onto. I'm sure that's all clear as mud but that's the problem. I think the clip I'm trying to fabricate will work but I need to get the right materials and a glue that will bond the material to itself as well as to the existing siding. A mechanical solution such as screws or pop rivets would work but there's not enough room and it would cause the siding to buldge in one or two places. Right now the loose piece is taped in place with silver duct tape so the wind doesn't blow it around too much. I'll work on the problem a little longer but if I don't get too far, it'll be time to call in the professionals. Let everyone know how it goes. This has become personal. Take care, Ed Przybylek From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of NLG Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 4:34 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon What exactly is wrong with your siding? If it is just coming apart and there isn't any seperation of the locking channel, it would be easier to get a unzipping tool to loosen the siding, pull the nails, move them up a fraction of an inch, and then rezip the siding. - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 3:02 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon Hi Tom, I'm beginning to think you're right. More and more, it's beginning to look like a mechanical solution (screws, pop rivets, etc.) will be a better solution. Any information your technician might provide, though, may still prove helpful. Thanks. Take care, Ed From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Tom Fowle Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 1:35 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon Ed, That's a huge set of specs, I doubt there is anything. sounds to me like the fix is going to be more trouble than just replacing the siding, but then I'm not there. I'll ask. Tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Landscaping blocks.
It depends on the style of blocks. Some are designed to but up against a corner post of stacked squares, one type I am using do have half block outside corners. They are textured so I think I will form my inside corners for the steps I am building by a wad of adhesive on the flat edge and push it firmly against the textured face. You would pour your slab then lay the blocks on it but at the edge. There is a flange hanging over the rear of the bottom of these blocks which would catch on the edge of the slab and you just continue laying courses with the edge hanging over setting each subsequent course half an inch back of the lower one.You could glue each but the pressure of the dirt will keep them in place. You might like to drape landscape fabric over the back side of the wall and stick it to the penultimate course then stick that one down or some sort of more decorative cap to hold the fabric and finish the wall. The fabric will help keep any sand or dirt from migrating between the blocks and should you ever desire to rearrange things it will come apart a lot easier. Hope that helps. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: Blind Handyman List Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 10:41 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Landscaping blocks. Dale mentioned using landscaping blocks instead of cinder blocks to build the walls around my basement door pit. OK, I like the idea, but I have a question about that. How can I do inside corners with landscaping blocks? Do they have special inside and outside corner blocks? Would I have to cut 45s on the ends of every block in the corners? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Replacing Fence Rails
Hi Tom yes they would make good fire wood, they are not treated with any toxic stuff. We do not have a wood fire anymore, I will call my work car driver he has a wood fire and might like them a good thought. Regards Ray From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tom Fowle Sent: Friday, 7 August 2009 6:41 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Replacing Fence Rails Ray, Wouldn't those old rails make good firewood? Or are they soaked with creosote? Tom On Fri, Aug 07, 2009 at 06:30:08AM +1000, Ray Boyce wrote: Hi All Well we replaced the last 88 feet of wooden 3 x2 fence rails yesterday with top cap 50 galvanised steel channels. These channels are like a pyramid shape with a one inch flat on the bottom feet and a one inch flat at the top. You screw the feet directly to the galvanised posts and the fence sheets are screwed to the one inch top thus hiding the screws inside the pyramid. Now I will have to cut up the wood rails ready for dispatch to the dump. Another job completed. Ray [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Replacing Fence Rails
I've always wanted a fire place, but know lots of people whove had them and had them removed for the mess. Of course around here burning is pretty much frowned upon lots of the time. Tom
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Landscaping blocks.
Hi Dan Have you thought of using Hebel Blocks, which are light weight and you can cut them to any shape using a Hebel Saw. Light Weight is the key carrying them up those steps would be easy and you just glue them together . Just a thought. Ray From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Friday, 7 August 2009 12:42 AM To: Blind Handyman List Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Landscaping blocks. Dale mentioned using landscaping blocks instead of cinder blocks to build the walls around my basement door pit. OK, I like the idea, but I have a question about that. How can I do inside corners with landscaping blocks? Do they have special inside and outside corner blocks? Would I have to cut 45s on the ends of every block in the corners? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
