Re: [Cameramakers] bellows liner sheen

2002-11-29 Thread Robert Mueller

I am not sure this is possible but you can coat the stuff with thin layer
of silicone of the sort used for sealing bathtubs, aquariums
and... You can thin it with a considerable amount of mineral
spirits (it takes a lot if you want to brush the result). Add
enough carbon black (I had success with about 10 % printers ink) to make
thin layers quite dense. This will fill the pores and
also increase the resistance to some kinds of damage (and could be used
to bond the fabric to the next layer). If you now uniformly press
this mess onto a suitable sheet of polyethylene or other non-stick
material which has the surface appearance you desire, you will copy the
surface in the silicone! The real problem is finding a non-stick
layer of something having the correct surface. Much polyethylene is
too shiny and the end result would be worse than you now have!
Still, if you can locate the correct stuff, I am quite sure the process
will work.
There is a second point of view; I cannot think of any reason to
worry about the shiny appearance! Yes, it reflects in a specular
way, but if the source makes a broad beam, the specular reflection of
that beam will be no less well spread out. The main source of light
is what bounces back from the film or film holder. Certainly the
film scatters light well and probably the black film holder is not too
bad either. It can easily be that a flat black surface reflects
considerably more total light than your shiny one.
 It is hard to produce truly dead
black. Light traps offer the best hope and flocking is one way to
reach this goal. I have seen a bellows with partially flocked inner
surface. If you are good, maybe you can flöocking to adhere to the
silicone (but hurry, before a skin develops!)
Bob

At 08:39 26.11.02 -0500, you wrote:
Hi,

I am in the process of building a 24x24 camera bellows and I found
this wonderful material called Emphatex. .
It is a 2 ply coated breathable nylon material used to make
sports gear..It is extremely thin , light and subtle and is almost
100 percent light tight by itself, however it does pass a very
little light.. ... With two layers I am sure it will be completely
opaque.. The question or concern I have is that the material
has a slight or dull sheen to it and I was wondering how critical
do you think it is to have a liner in the bellows that
is dead flat black?
 If
it is critical does anyone have any suggestions to dull the
sheen..
 Also
is there any recommendations for liners that are dead flat black..

Thanks,
John Cremati


Re: [Cameramakers] converting weird light meter scales?

2002-11-29 Thread Matt Mengel
Argus made a C-3 (the Brick) that had the meter you
speak of mounted on top. (The hot shoe? I think).
The shutter speed dial and f-stops are only whole
numbers and somehow relate to that meter. Perhaps you
would take a meter reading and whatever the number was
you would use a combination of the shutter/aperture to
equal your meter # and you have your setting. This
sounds much more complicated than it really is. My
Minolta Autocord has the same system (but also has the
real f-stops and shutter speeds).
I have one of these Argus cameras but I dont have the
meter. The camera is pretty much useless without it. 
For the cost of shipping I will send it to you if you
want it. It needs a cleaning and most of these need
the rangefinder adjusted, but it works.
To answer your question: The Argus #s probably only
apply to the system described above.
The EVS numbers do mean something. I have an old GE
meter that has both EV and f\stops on it. If you cant
find a cross reference chart I can make you one.
 Matt

heres a link to one on ebay, this is what mine looks
like.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1940805751



--- Uptown Gallery [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hello:
 
 I picked up a sack o' Polaroid cameras and an Argus
 LC-3 mini-meter today.
 
 The meter dial has f stop 4.5-22 ASA settings, EVS
 scale from 3.5 to 16 and
 shutter setting from 8-4.
 
 EVS sounds familiar, but it looks like if one
 attempts to use the Shutter
 setting scale, the EVS pointer doesn't end up
 anywhere near the EVS numbers,
 and vice versa.
 
 Anyone know what these mean or how to translate?
 (Familiar with this meter?)
 
 I think I will scan it and make a new scale and
 calibrate it with a TTL SLR.
 
 Thanks
 
 Murray
 
 
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[Cameramakers] html in postings to Cameramakers

2002-11-29 Thread Brian Swale
Hello everybody

Can people posting messages please turn off the HTML option in their e-mail 
agent?

And also avoid including ALL of the posting they are replying to, especially 
long ones. 

The last digest, Vol 1 #553 - 4 msgs, at 31kb, is bloated out of all proportion 
due to these two factors. Take out the html and the repetition and the size is 
under 10kb.

Brian Swale 



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[Cameramakers] Re: html in postings to Cameramakers

2002-11-29 Thread Steve.Goldstein
Brian Swale raised the issue of needless HTML in postings to this
list.

Here's a URL which tells you how to shut off both HTML and MIME in
most of the popular email programs.  It's not hard.

http://support.pinehurst.net/email/nomime.html

Cheers!

Steve
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[Cameramakers] Re: Flat Black Bellows Lining

2002-11-29 Thread Michael Hendrickson
Hi,

In the past I've used regular black 100% cotton cloth for bellows lining
with good results. Just look for the stuff that looks black enough. Once
your eyes are accustomed to the light in the store, the comparison is
easier than you might think. Go ahead and trust your eyes, or bring a
light meter with you to compare the fabrics.

The only problem I ever had with this is having to be very careful when
applying adhesive; too much too soon and it'll bleed through to the
inside, leaving a mess to clean up before folding the bellows. But even
that can be avoided with care; apply two thin coats, letting the first
coat dry before applying the second one.

If you're very particular you can dye the fabric before using it but
this almost certainly is unnecessary; I'd wash it in cold water once
before using it to knock off some of the factory sheen and sizing, dull
it down a little.

It's funny how much light a nice dead black piece of cloth can reflect!
Once I was photographing some sculpted glass pieces for some friends.
They brought over a really nice deep black piece of velvet to use for
background/base. I metered it and all kinds of light was reflecting off
that thing! We ended up using black background paper; it reflected close
to two stops less light! Even though it didn't appear as deep a black as
the velvet. But the velvet had lots of little specular reflections
coming off of it. The resulting black and white photos told the tale;
those pieces looked like they were just floating there.

Hope this helps.

'Bye for now,

--Michael
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[Cameramakers] 1)EV scale is OK, 2) Kodak Safety film notch question

2002-11-29 Thread Uptown Gallery
Hello:

1) After more reading and responses from list members - EV scale is pretty
nice actually!

2) Someone brought in some old photos to frame today and I sized them up
quickly - they looked like proof contact prints from 4 x 5 sheet film.

The film says Kodak- Safety  76

I am curious about the age of the negative, whether 76 meant film type or
1976. The notches may clue someone in.

Scan is at
www.multi-volti.com/KodakSafety76.jpg

I scanned the scrap piece of photo paper (someone had already cut the photos
up before bringing it in). The image was an old off-road racecar, so it
could have been any year.

Thanks

Murray


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[Cameramakers] ELF cameramaker survey

2002-11-29 Thread Uptown Gallery
I am curious what those of you out there in Camera-Land interested in
Extremely Large format (like the16x20 and 20x24) do with the photos...

are some of you studio professionals or in galleries elsewhere and sell them
or are you amateurs and populate your own walls?

My day job is in a techical field and most of the people (one guy went to
photog. school  had a Graphic Reflex years ago) there seem absolutely
bewildered by my interest in this, or even 4x5 format.

I can't explain my interest in it - I hope I can produce something that
justifies the effort.

I am also curious how much room length those of you with horizontal
enlargers need.

Thank you

Murray

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