Re: [Cameramakers] Springs and Spring Backs

2001-01-26 Thread J. Wayde Allen

On Thu, 25 Jan 2001, Bradley M. Small wrote:

 O! So the lift handle is only joined to the ground glass
 frame in the center. Then the lift handle is connected to the camera back.
 
 So basically ti si very similar to the Giant Mouse Trap.

I think you've got it!

- Wayde
  ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

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Re: [Cameramakers] Springs and Spring Backs

2001-01-25 Thread J. Wayde Allen

On Thu, 25 Jan 2001, Bradley Small wrote:

 4. Magic Layton Spring Back -- THis one confused me so I am not sure I
 understand it correctly, as the gg seems to be bond at the center and
 the end and is sprung in an opposing direction. It doesn't appear that
 it would be able to sit flat on the film holder, but ther emust be
 some movement I can't grok.

This has a big U shaped frame (lift arm) that is hinged at the open end
against the back frame.  The closed end of this U is the handle.  The
ground glass frame is hinged at its midpoint and attached to the sides of
the U.  It then uses coiled springs attached between the sides of the lift
arm and the back frame to hold the whole thing down against the camera
back.

We can try an ASCII diagram (you'll have to turn off proportional text
in your mail reader for this to work.) ...

The O's are the hinge points and the @ symbols the connection points for
the springs.  You are looking straight at the camera back, and you'd pick
up on the lift handle on the right hand side to slide the film holder in
from the right.


  -@-|
  O   O  |    Lift Handle
   ---   |  
   | |   |
   | |   |
   |   Ground|   |
   |   Glass |   |
   | |   |
   | |   |
   ---   |
  O   O  |
  -@-| 

  ^   ^^
  |   ||

Hinge  Hinge Coiled Spring


If you've got the article, there is actually a pretty good picture of this
mechanism there.  The ground glass frame rotates freely around the
verticle axis in this diagram.

 Anyone have any others?  Anyoen have any experiences with any of these
 that they love or hate? Any reccomendations or warnings on these? What
 are the spring materials that you all incorporate? I have seen hacksaw
 blades, bandsaw blades, windshield wipers, rubber bands. Or people
 just buy these things industrially somewhere?

Yes, and you forgot to include piano wire and springs scrounged from other
equipment.

 If brass or other non-ferrous springs are to be made, how does one
 make such a thing?

Basically the same way you make one using ferrous metals.

 I understand that non-ferrous metals don't temper
 the same way as ferrous ones...

Yes and no, the problem is that you may find yourself wanting to work with
beryllium copper.  The dust from this is quite toxic and I wouldn't
recommend it.  Scrounged or purchased springs and spring steel are
probably the simplest approaches.

- Wayde
  ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

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Re: [Cameramakers] Springs and Spring Backs

2001-01-25 Thread Tyler Samson




Good point about berryllium copper Wade:

However, it is safe to work berryllium copper if you
keep the chips .004 or thicker. The thing is to keep
it out of the air you breath as you said "the dust".
So avoid grinding red copper colored metals unless you
know it does not contain copper guys. If you for some
ridiculous reason think you must grind or file copper
run water on it all the time at the tool/part
interface to keep the dust out of the air. 

It is a better bet just to avoid the stuff.

Tyler.


--- "J. Wayde Allen" [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 On Thu, 25 Jan 2001, Bradley Small wrote:
 
  4. Magic Layton Spring Back -- THis one confused
 me so I am not sure I
  understand it correctly, as the gg seems to be
 bond at the center and
  the end and is sprung in an opposing direction. It
 doesn't appear that
  it would be able to sit flat on the film holder,
 but ther emust be
  some movement I can't grok.
 
 This has a big U shaped frame (lift arm) that is
 hinged at the open end
 against the back frame.  The closed end of this U is
 the handle.  The
 ground glass frame is hinged at its midpoint and
 attached to the sides of
 the U.  It then uses coiled springs attached between
 the sides of the lift
 arm and the back frame to hold the whole thing down
 against the camera
 back.
 
 We can try an ASCII diagram (you'll have to turn off
 proportional text
 in your mail reader for this to work.) ...
 
 The O's are the hinge points and the @ symbols the
 connection points for
 the springs.  You are looking straight at the camera
 back, and you'd pick
 up on the lift handle on the right hand side to
 slide the film holder in
 from the right.
 
 
   -@-|
   O   O  |  
  Lift Handle
---   |  
| |   |
| |   |
|   Ground|   |
|   Glass |   |
| |   |
| |   |
---   |
   O   O  |
   -@-| 
 
   ^   ^^
   |   ||
 
 Hinge  Hinge Coiled Spring
 
 
 If you've got the article, there is actually a
 pretty good picture of this
 mechanism there.  The ground glass frame rotates
 freely around the
 verticle axis in this diagram.
 
  Anyone have any others?  Anyoen have any
 experiences with any of these
  that they love or hate? Any reccomendations or
 warnings on these? What
  are the spring materials that you all incorporate?
 I have seen hacksaw
  blades, bandsaw blades, windshield wipers, rubber
 bands. Or people
  just buy these things industrially somewhere?
 
 Yes, and you forgot to include piano wire and
 springs scrounged from other
 equipment.
 
  If brass or other non-ferrous springs are to be
 made, how does one
  make such a thing?
 
 Basically the same way you make one using ferrous
 metals.
 
  I understand that non-ferrous metals don't temper
  the same way as ferrous ones...
 
 Yes and no, the problem is that you may find
 yourself wanting to work with
 beryllium copper.  The dust from this is quite toxic
 and I wouldn't
 recommend it.  Scrounged or purchased springs and
 spring steel are
 probably the simplest approaches.
 
 - Wayde
   ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
 
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Re: [Cameramakers] Springs and Spring Backs

2001-01-25 Thread Joe Portale

An old machinists trick to file copper, aluminum or any soft metal is to rub
the teeth of the file with chalk.  This not only will keep the file from
Loading up, the chalk "sticks" to the filings and keeps them from flying
around.  There are special wheels for grinding and cutting non-ferrous
metals. I forgot what they are called, but they also have a special coating
that prevents that keeps the grinding surface from filling up. These
coatings are designed to somehow keep the dust down. If one must work with
beryllium copper or any of the variants, a simple dust mask will go a long
way to preserving your lungs.

For what it's worth.

Joe Portale
Tucson, AZ


- Original Message -
From: Tyler Samson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2001 4:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Springs and Spring Backs





 Good point about berryllium copper Wade:

 However, it is safe to work berryllium copper if you
 keep the chips .004 or thicker. The thing is to keep
 it out of the air you breath as you said "the dust".
 So avoid grinding red copper colored metals unless you
 know it does not contain copper guys. If you for some
 ridiculous reason think you must grind or file copper
 run water on it all the time at the tool/part
 interface to keep the dust out of the air.

 It is a better bet just to avoid the stuff.

 Tyler.


 --- "J. Wayde Allen" [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  On Thu, 25 Jan 2001, Bradley Small wrote:
 
   4. Magic Layton Spring Back -- THis one confused
  me so I am not sure I
   understand it correctly, as the gg seems to be
  bond at the center and
   the end and is sprung in an opposing direction. It
  doesn't appear that
   it would be able to sit flat on the film holder,
  but ther emust be
   some movement I can't grok.
 
  This has a big U shaped frame (lift arm) that is
  hinged at the open end
  against the back frame.  The closed end of this U is
  the handle.  The
  ground glass frame is hinged at its midpoint and
  attached to the sides of
  the U.  It then uses coiled springs attached between
  the sides of the lift
  arm and the back frame to hold the whole thing down
  against the camera
  back.
 
  We can try an ASCII diagram (you'll have to turn off
  proportional text
  in your mail reader for this to work.) ...
 
  The O's are the hinge points and the @ symbols the
  connection points for
  the springs.  You are looking straight at the camera
  back, and you'd pick
  up on the lift handle on the right hand side to
  slide the film holder in
  from the right.
 
 
-@-|
O   O  |
   Lift Handle
 ---   |
 | |   |
 | |   |
 |   Ground|   |
 |   Glass |   |
 | |   |
 | |   |
 ---   |
O   O  |
-@-|
 
^   ^^
|   ||
 
  Hinge  Hinge Coiled Spring
 
 
  If you've got the article, there is actually a
  pretty good picture of this
  mechanism there.  The ground glass frame rotates
  freely around the
  verticle axis in this diagram.
 
   Anyone have any others?  Anyoen have any
  experiences with any of these
   that they love or hate? Any reccomendations or
  warnings on these? What
   are the spring materials that you all incorporate?
  I have seen hacksaw
   blades, bandsaw blades, windshield wipers, rubber
  bands. Or people
   just buy these things industrially somewhere?
 
  Yes, and you forgot to include piano wire and
  springs scrounged from other
  equipment.
 
   If brass or other non-ferrous springs are to be
  made, how does one
   make such a thing?
 
  Basically the same way you make one using ferrous
  metals.
 
   I understand that non-ferrous metals don't temper
   the same way as ferrous ones...
 
  Yes and no, the problem is that you may find
  yourself wanting to work with
  beryllium copper.  The dust from this is quite toxic
  and I wouldn't
  recommend it.  Scrounged or purchased springs and
  spring steel are
  probably the simplest approaches.
 
  - Wayde
([EMAIL PROTECTED])
 
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  Cameramakers mailing list
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