Re: [Cameramakers] Thinking about building my first trial camera
Nick, as a furniture maker and a builder of a 4x5 folding field camera I feel you'll be disappointed w/ plywood. With all the difficult cuts your going to be making, ply will spinter and tear and look terrible, will be hard to sand out so it looks good and when you stain it, ugg. If your going to take the time and it will be a long process the first time around go with solid wood such as cherry, mahagany, even alder. Good luck - Original Message - From: Nick Zentena [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002 12:03 PM Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Thinking about building my first trial camera I was thinking about either 1/4 or 3mil plywood. I guess 3mil is 1/8. I can get what they call airplane plywood for a reasonable price. 24x24 is $13Cdn for the 3ply. It's outdoor rated. It's not certified for airplane use but I can live with that. Shouldn't it be lighter for the same amount of strength? Thanks Nick ___ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers ___ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers
Re: [Cameramakers] Thinking about building my first trial camera
I'm going to disagree a little with Nick. If you use really nice plywood, It's fairly nice, and very strong. Joints are always the problem. I've used closely spaced tiny dowels at a 45 on the corners with good results, and gussets on the inside where practical work well too. I've also used veneer strips as splines at corners. Hobby stores sell birch aircraft grade ply for reasonable sums. I would use that. It's essential you use the right saw blades so you don't tear the veneer off when you're cutting. I sometimes apply a piece of blue masking tape along the cut line. Another possibility I will try eventually is to bolt the body together using really good structural aluminum angle on the inside or outside of the corners. 6061 T6, or 7075 T651 would be prime candidates. Either of these would polish up beautifully, and with countersunk stainless screws, would look nice too. Another plus is that you could disasssemble it wnenever you wanted. I will never use brass screws where strength is needed again. The machine screws are weak, the wood screws are pitiful compared to steel ones. Gene - Original Message - From: Greg [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2002 7:49 AM Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Thinking about building my first trial camera Nick, as a furniture maker and a builder of a 4x5 folding field camera I feel you'll be disappointed w/ plywood. With all the difficult cuts your going to be making, ply will spinter and tear and look terrible, will be hard to sand out so it looks good and when you stain it, ugg. If your going to take the time and it will be a long process the first time around go with solid wood such as cherry, mahagany, even alder. Good luck - Original Message - From: Nick Zentena [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002 12:03 PM Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Thinking about building my first trial camera I was thinking about either 1/4 or 3mil plywood. I guess 3mil is 1/8. I can get what they call airplane plywood for a reasonable price. 24x24 is $13Cdn for the 3ply. It's outdoor rated. It's not certified for airplane use but I can live with that. Shouldn't it be lighter for the same amount of strength? Thanks Nick ___ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers ___ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers ___ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers
[Cameramakers] ? regarding apertures -- schematic..
Hello fellow afflicted; I was wondering if anyone on the list might have a schematic laying around for leaf apertures, e.g. enlarging lens apertures (remember the opening credits of the early 007 movies, with james bond moving around and the aperture following him? : ) anyway, i am interested in scaling up (way up) an aperture assembly, and i don't want to take apart my relatively perfect Schneider - Kreuznach Componon 1:5,6 / 360mm to find out. I have a few crummy Kodak 50mm enlarging lenses, but they are pretty tiny, and it might be easier if i had something i could scan enlarge for my template. I am willing to reimburse to circumvent the learning curve. thank you! joel ___ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers
Re: [Cameramakers] A question regarding a lens
I have the same camera. the 616 Monitor and Vigilant used the same lens. Might be tight for 4x5, I could test it on my Horseman easy enough if you're not in a big hurry. Gene - Original Message - From: Robert Stoddard [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2002 7:01 PM Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] A question regarding a lens I currently have a Kodak anastigmat special 127mm lens from an old 616 camera. Does anyone have any experience in using this lens in a 4x5 camera? Rich, The surprise here for me is that this is a 127 mm focal length lens but from a 616 camera. I thought that the 616 Kodak Monitor with the Anastigmat Special lens used a shorter focal length, like 114 mm or so. I don't have a reference nearby to check this, but are you sure that your lens didn't come off the World War II era Combat Graphic, a military version without bellows which used a front-element-focusing lens of 127 mm if I recall correctly? If so, then the lens should have no trouble covering 4 X 5, because that is what the camera was! RKS _ Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ___ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers ___ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers
