Re: Steve Garcia / Micromint SB180

[allison via cctalk]

On 07/05/2017 04:14 PM, jim stephens via cctalk wrote:
>
>
> On 7/5/2017 12:32 PM, GerardCJAT via cctalk wrote:
>> PLEASE, under what directory you put the pdf of the manual  ??
> http://bitsavers.informatik.uni-stuttgart.de/pdf/micromint/
Thats only for the SB180FX... there are two versions the SB180 and the
later FX.
Never mind also the BCC180.  All z180 powered but not the same.

The first SB180 was limited to 256K of ram, the FX used the Z180 in the
higher lead
count J-lead package and could address 1MB.  The BCC180 was for control
aps and
carried 156Kof Dram and up to 128K of 32K eprom or ram but had no disk
IO but tons
of 8255 (times 2) IO.

I have the BCC180 and the SB180 (first version).

Allison

HP 12653A line printer interface

[J. David Bryan via cctalk]

Does anyone have an HP 12653A line printer interface?

It is used to connect an HP 21xx/1000 CPU to an HP 2767A line printer.  I 
am unable to find a manual for this card, but the HP "General Purpose 
Register Diagnostic" manual suggests that it is a modified HP 12566B 
Microcircuit interface.  I'm trying to determine what modifications were 
made, so that I can model it accurately in the SIMH/HP2100 simulator.

If anyone has this card and wouldn't mind sending me high-resolution photos 
of the front and back, I'd be most grateful.

  -- Dave

Re: New batch of pdp8 OMNIBUS to USB interface! Please Read and react!

[Barry via cctalk]

Hello Phillip,
This is hastily prepared but I am interested in purchasing a OMNI to USB 
interface.
Is the list still open?
Barry McMahon

Sent from my iPad

Re: Windows 10 recent creator release may take your printer out. I am really ...

[TeoZ via cctalk]

The switch to home USB printer/scanner combinations also killed off the 
generic standalone scanners (especially the parallel port ones and the 
almost dead SCSI variety).



-Original Message- 
From: Ed via cctalk

Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2017 9:31 PM
To: tin...@gmail.com ; cctalk@classiccmp.org
Subject: Re: Windows 10 recent creator release may take your printer out. I 
am really ...


Hi  Torfinn!


The  real horrible thing was all the scanners that were orphaned in  the
win 98 se  to  XP change  over...lotsa  parallel  port scannersat the
good will after that  upgrade!

Ed#  _www.smecc.org_ (http://www.smecc.org)




---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Re: Windows 10 recent creator release may take your printer out. I am really ...

[Ed via cctalk]

Hi  Torfinn!
 
Well  driver  worked ok this  time...  just had to  TOTALLY  remove the old 
 one thenreinstall  thedriver again and bingo.  the scanner  had   
no  problem either before or  after  driver  switch   after the upgrade...
 
The  real horrible thing was all the scanners that were orphaned in  the  
win 98 se  to  XP change  over...lotsa  parallel  port scannersat the  
good will after that  upgrade!
 
Ed#  _www.smecc.org_ (http://www.smecc.org)  
 
 
 
In a message dated 7/4/2017 1:41:56 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
cctalk@classiccmp.org writes:

On Mon,  Jul 3, 2017 at 7:47 PM, Ed via cctalk   
wrote:
>
> Windows 10 recent creator  release  may take  your printer  out.

FWIW, this is nothing new with Windows: when  the switch from Windows
2000 to XP happened, a lot of HP printer owners (I  don't know if it
was limited to HP, sorry) was stuck with printers without  a working
driver.
Yes, I know this doesn't help.
--  
Regards,
Torfinn  Ingolfsen

Re: ChipQuik Troubles

[Paul Koning via cctalk]

> On Jul 5, 2017, at 6:17 PM, Chuck Guzis via cctalk  
> wrote:
> 
> On 07/05/2017 01:42 PM, Rob Jarratt via cctalk wrote:
>> I bought some ChipQuik recently and managed to successfully remove a 74LS125
>> with little trouble. Today I have come to trying to desolder another similar
>> sized chip, but try as I might I just cannot get it to work. The ChipQuik
>> just balls up and won't "take" to the pins. I applied plenty of the flux
>> supplied with the ChipQuik, but I wonder if I applied too much?
> 
> Will the pins take "regular" solder?  I wonder if there might not be
> some coating on them...

Real solder works just fine.  I've assembled boards that were made to lead-free 
standards, using lead-free parts -- since that's all you can get now.  On the 
advice of a board rework technician I used real solder.  Her comment amounted 
to that real solder always works better, and that lead-free solder is something 
you put up with if you have to.

paul

Re: Steve Garcia / Micromint SB180

[Al Kossow via cctalk]

argh.. forgot there was already a micromint dir, so I moved it there

On 7/5/17 5:13 PM, Al Kossow via cctalk wrote:
> it will be under microMint early tomorrow
> 
> On 7/5/17 12:32 PM, GerardCJAT via cctalk wrote:
> 
>> PLEASE, under what directory you put the pdf of the manual  ??
>>
> 

db9 requirements

[Henry Bond via cctalk]

Good Evening all, hope your week is going well.

I received a sparcstation 10 today and wondered if anyone knew which db25
cable to get to connect to my DEC vt, null modem, cross over, etc, etc.

Also if anyone has experience with this machine I would be happy to take OS
recommendations.



-H

Re: Steve Garcia / Micromint SB180

[Al Kossow via cctalk]

it will be under microMint early tomorrow

On 7/5/17 12:32 PM, GerardCJAT via cctalk wrote:

> PLEASE, under what directory you put the pdf of the manual  ??
> 

RE: ChipQuik Troubles

[Rob Jarratt via cctalk]

> -Original Message-
> From: Jon Elson [mailto:el...@pico-systems.com]
> Sent: 05 July 2017 23:25
> To: r...@jarratt.me.uk; Rob Jarratt ; General
> Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts 
> Subject: Re: ChipQuik Troubles
> 
> On 07/05/2017 03:42 PM, Rob Jarratt via cctalk wrote:
> > I bought some ChipQuik recently and managed to successfully remove a
> > 74LS125 with little trouble. Today I have come to trying to desolder
> > another similar sized chip, but try as I might I just cannot get it to
> > work. The ChipQuik just balls up and won't "take" to the pins. I
> > applied plenty of the flux supplied with the ChipQuik, but I wonder if I
applied
> too much?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> The solders may be incompatible.  What are you trying to do, replace a
> defective chip to make an old board work?
> 


I *think* it may be defective, I have a replacement for it anyway.


> You DON'T need ChipQuik.  If the board was soldered with lead-free solder,
> diluting the solder with PbSn solder makes it easier.  If it is already
done with
> leaded solder, then you just need a little technique.  For surface mount
parts,
> use an Xacto knife under the pins, and lift them one at a time while
touching
> with the iron. Generally, I remove as much solder as I can with solder
wick first,
> then lift the pins.  When one row of pins are lifted, the chip can be
flexed a few
> times and the other row of pins break off.  The remaining pins can be
swept off
> with the soldering iron.
> Then, the solder can be removed with solder wick and the new chip
installed.
> 


If all else fails I may go with this. I don't mind if the chip is damaged
during removal as I have replacements.

Thanks

Rob

> For through hole chips, the safest way is to snip the pins off at the chip
body
> with tiny diagonal cutters, remove the body and then pick each lead out
with
> tweezers while heating the pad with the soldering iron.  Also, with good
> desoldering tools, you can remove the chip without destroying it.  The
best
> desolderers have a vacuum pump (or air venturi pump) and a hollow
> desoldering tip.  You apply the tip to the lead for about 5 seconds, then
apply
> the vacuum while "swirling" the tip around the component lead.
> This works amazingly well, and the parts generally fall off the board when
all
> leads are done, even on multi-layer boards.  The solder suckers that are
used
> with a standard iron are FAR inferior to the units described above.
> 
> Jon

RE: ChipQuik Troubles

[Rob Jarratt via cctalk]

> -Original Message-
> From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-boun...@classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of Chuck Guzis
> via cctalk
> Sent: 05 July 2017 23:18
> To: cctalk@classiccmp.org
> Subject: Re: ChipQuik Troubles
> 
> On 07/05/2017 01:42 PM, Rob Jarratt via cctalk wrote:
> > I bought some ChipQuik recently and managed to successfully remove a
> > 74LS125 with little trouble. Today I have come to trying to desolder
> > another similar sized chip, but try as I might I just cannot get it to
> > work. The ChipQuik just balls up and won't "take" to the pins. I
> > applied plenty of the flux supplied with the ChipQuik, but I wonder if I 
> > applied
> too much?
> 
> Will the pins take "regular" solder?  I wonder if there might not be some
> coating on them...
> 
> Can't say that I ever had the problem.
> 


I did try to refresh the solder on one pin as I suspected a poor contact, but 
that would not work either. The chip is on the same board that I had success 
with before, but in a different location and where there has been battery 
leakage. I will try a PCB cleaner first to see if there is any residue.

Regards

Rob

Re: ChipQuik Troubles

[Jon Elson via cctalk]

On 07/05/2017 03:42 PM, Rob Jarratt via cctalk wrote:

I bought some ChipQuik recently and managed to successfully remove a 74LS125
with little trouble. Today I have come to trying to desolder another similar
sized chip, but try as I might I just cannot get it to work. The ChipQuik
just balls up and won't "take" to the pins. I applied plenty of the flux
supplied with the ChipQuik, but I wonder if I applied too much?

  



The solders may be incompatible.  What are you trying to do, 
replace a defective chip to make an old board work?


You DON'T need ChipQuik.  If the board was soldered with 
lead-free solder, diluting the solder with PbSn solder makes 
it easier.  If it is already done with leaded solder, then 
you just need a little technique.  For surface mount parts, 
use an Xacto knife under the pins, and lift them one at a 
time while touching with the iron. Generally, I remove as 
much solder as I can with solder wick first, then lift the 
pins.  When one row of pins are lifted, the chip can be 
flexed a few times and the other row of pins break off.  The 
remaining pins can be swept off with the soldering iron.  
Then, the solder can be removed with solder wick and the new 
chip installed.


For through hole chips, the safest way is to snip the pins 
off at the chip body with tiny diagonal cutters, remove the 
body and then pick each lead out with tweezers while heating 
the pad with the soldering iron.  Also, with good 
desoldering tools, you can remove the chip without 
destroying it.  The best desolderers have a vacuum pump (or 
air venturi pump) and a hollow desoldering tip.  You apply 
the tip to the lead for about 5 seconds, then apply the 
vacuum while "swirling" the tip around the component lead.  
This works amazingly well, and the parts generally fall off 
the board when all leads are done, even on multi-layer 
boards.  The solder suckers that are used with a standard 
iron are FAR inferior to the units described above.


Jon

Re: ChipQuik Troubles

[Chuck Guzis via cctalk]

On 07/05/2017 01:42 PM, Rob Jarratt via cctalk wrote:
> I bought some ChipQuik recently and managed to successfully remove a 74LS125
> with little trouble. Today I have come to trying to desolder another similar
> sized chip, but try as I might I just cannot get it to work. The ChipQuik
> just balls up and won't "take" to the pins. I applied plenty of the flux
> supplied with the ChipQuik, but I wonder if I applied too much?

Will the pins take "regular" solder?  I wonder if there might not be
some coating on them...

Can't say that I ever had the problem.

--Chuck

Re: ChipQuik Troubles

[Chris Pye via cctalk]

> On 6 Jul 2017, at 6:42 am, Rob Jarratt via cctalk  
> wrote:
> 
> I bought some ChipQuik recently and managed to successfully remove a 74LS125
> with little trouble. Today I have come to trying to desolder another similar
> sized chip, but try as I might I just cannot get it to work. The ChipQuik
> just balls up and won't "take" to the pins. I applied plenty of the flux
> supplied with the ChipQuik, but I wonder if I applied too much?

Hi Rob, is there a chance that the second chip is on a lead free board?
Sometimes it helps to flow a bit of normal lead/tin solder on the pins first.

Chris..

Steve Garcia / Micromint SB180

[GerardCJAT via cctalk]

Sorry for this late UPDATE !

Replies were numerous, S180 has been claimed. Thanks guys.

 
 Original Message - 
From: GerardCJAT 
To: cct...@classiccmp.org 
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2017 6:33 PM
Subject: Steve Garcia / Micromint SB180


Remember it ? 

I have an almost brand new one, powered only half dozen times. ( was running 
CPM ...  Good old days   ;-)   )

It is free to a good home, but I expect you to pay packaging and shipping from 
FRANCE

I do not know if you can contact me off line.  :-(   Please, try and let me 
know  !!

Re: M9301-YB ROM flaky

[william degnan via cctalk]

perfect, thanks I can use this.
Bill

On Wed, Jul 5, 2017 at 3:17 PM, Noel Chiappa via cctalk <
cctalk@classiccmp.org> wrote:

> > From: William Degnan
>
> > what is the memory range
>
> That's in the disassembly page:
>
>   http://ana-3.lcs.mit.edu/~jnc/tech/pdp11/ROMs/M9301-YB.mac
>
> 765000-765776 and 773000-773776
>
>
> > can you post the ROM dump so I can compare on my end?
>
> Well, the contents are in that page too, but here's the output of my ROM
> dumper (URL posted further back in the thread):
>
>   http://ana-3.lcs.mit.edu/~jnc/tech/pdp11/ROMs/M9301-YB.txt
>
> if you just want to do a 'diff' (download the ROM dumper .LDA, run it, and
> compare its output).
>
>
> > call up same in PDPGUI and compare there
>
> I don't know what format PDPGUI uses; I don't use it (don't remember why).
>
> I wrote a bespoke PDP-11 console program that runs under Unix V6 (the same
> as
> we had BITD; when I wrote this code, I didn't have access to all the MIT
> sources, so I had to re-write it); that way I can either use it on my
> Windoze
> box - under Ersatz-11 - or on real PDP-11 hardware, going from one machine
> to
> another.
>
> Noel
>

Re: M9301-YB ROM flaky

[Noel Chiappa via cctalk]

> From: William Degnan

> what is the memory range

That's in the disassembly page: 

  http://ana-3.lcs.mit.edu/~jnc/tech/pdp11/ROMs/M9301-YB.mac

765000-765776 and 773000-773776


> can you post the ROM dump so I can compare on my end?

Well, the contents are in that page too, but here's the output of my ROM
dumper (URL posted further back in the thread):

  http://ana-3.lcs.mit.edu/~jnc/tech/pdp11/ROMs/M9301-YB.txt

if you just want to do a 'diff' (download the ROM dumper .LDA, run it, and
compare its output).


> call up same in PDPGUI and compare there

I don't know what format PDPGUI uses; I don't use it (don't remember why).

I wrote a bespoke PDP-11 console program that runs under Unix V6 (the same as
we had BITD; when I wrote this code, I didn't have access to all the MIT
sources, so I had to re-write it); that way I can either use it on my Windoze
box - under Ersatz-11 - or on real PDP-11 hardware, going from one machine to
another.

Noel

Re: M9301-YB ROM flaky

[william degnan via cctalk]

what is the memory range / can you post the ROM dump so I can compare on my
end?  Just the memory contents will be fine, if this is convenient.  I will
call up same in PDPGUI and compare there.
Bill

On Wed, Jul 5, 2017 at 11:24 AM, Noel Chiappa via cctalk <
cctalk@classiccmp.org> wrote:

> > From: Fritz Mueller
>
> > Even better news: I was subsequently able to dump the contents of my
> > M9301-YB, and found they do indeed exactly match the contents ...
> > posted in [the] M9301-YB disassembly.
>
> Excellent news!
>
> When I get as chance, I'l do more work on the disassembly (and note that
> the
> ROM contents have been verified between two different units).
>
> Noel
>

Re: Dobbertin 4003 Eprommer driver, moldy floppy rescue in .de?

[Al Kossow via cctalk]

On 7/4/17 10:55 PM, Arno Kletzander via cctalk wrote:

> A quick look on the media surface however revealed a multitude of tarnished 
> spots that look to me like fungus growth. Having read about dirt and fungus 
> on media, moisture causing sticky shed syndrome, cleaning and baking 
> procedures and the like here, but not yet having gone through it myself (and 
> thus afraid to botch it if I tried it), I asked him not to read the floppy on 
> his own right now but let me ask for help.

Actually, dirt and fungus cause media dropouts. Sometimes you can (carefully) 
clean it off by washing and drying the
cookie and putting the disk in a new jacket.

When cleaning, you should carefully inspect the areas of the disk, preferably 
under magnification, to try to just take
off the surface contaminants and not the oxide and binder.

Re: M9301-YB ROM flaky

[Noel Chiappa via cctalk]

> From: Fritz Mueller

> Even better news: I was subsequently able to dump the contents of my
> M9301-YB, and found they do indeed exactly match the contents ...
> posted in [the] M9301-YB disassembly.

Excellent news! 

When I get as chance, I'l do more work on the disassembly (and note that the
ROM contents have been verified between two different units).

Noel

Re: Dobbertin 4003 Eprommer driver, moldy floppy rescue in .de?

[Arno Kletzander via cctalk]

> Tried contacting Dobbertin directly (...) ?

Sorry, forgot to mention that. Owner of the device contacted them nearly two 
months ago, no reply.
I asked him to try again in case his mail got lost in some spam filter.

Arno

Re: M9301-YB ROM flaky

[william degnan via cctalk]

On Jul 5, 2017 1:49 AM, "Fritz Mueller via cctalk" 
wrote:
>
> Well, the situation had worsened on my M9301 to the point where every
single word was affected, and then it was easy to see that it was always in
the least-significant four bits.  So I pulled and reseated that PROM, then
went ahead and did the other three as well for good measure (really should
have just tried this first!), and things got totally back to normal.
>
> Even better news: I was subsequently able to dump the contents of my
M9301-YB, and found they do indeed exactly match the contents that Noel has
posted in his M9301-YB disassembly.  So I think Noel’s dump can be
considered verified/authoritative.
>
> cheers,
> —FritzM.
>

Good news.

Bill Degnan
twitter: billdeg
vintagecomputer.net

RE: tape baking

[Rob Jarratt via cctalk]

> -Original Message-
> From: Christian Corti [mailto:c...@informatik.uni-stuttgart.de]
> Sent: 05 July 2017 08:48
> To: r...@jarratt.me.uk; Rob Jarratt ; General
> Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts 
> Subject: RE: tape baking
> 
> On Mon, 3 Jul 2017, Rob Jarratt wrote:
> > All I could do was prop open the tape door with a paper clip. 45C in
> > my fan oven worked for me. 55C in my oven seemed to mostly demagnetise
> > the tape. Other ovens may be different, so it is best to experiment
> > with something that doesn't matter.
> 
> You can not demagnetize tapes at 55°C, that must be another effect, like
> crosstalk (which is an issue, especially with audio tapes) or something like 
> that.
> 


Perhaps I will try to read the tape again then.

Regards

Rob

RE: tape baking

[Christian Corti via cctalk]

On Mon, 3 Jul 2017, Rob Jarratt wrote:
All I could do was prop open the tape door with a paper clip. 45C in my 
fan oven worked for me. 55C in my oven seemed to mostly demagnetise the 
tape. Other ovens may be different, so it is best to experiment with 
something that doesn't matter.


You can not demagnetize tapes at 55°C, that must be another effect, like 
crosstalk (which is an issue, especially with audio tapes) or something 
like that.


Christian