Re: Dilog DQ604 RL01 / RL02 emulation on ST506/ST412 disk.
On Tuesday (08/28/2018 at 08:22PM +0200), Mattis Lind wrote: > Den tis 28 aug. 2018 kl 19:50 skrev Chris Elmquist : > > > On Tuesday (08/28/2018 at 11:25AM +0200), Mattis Lind via cctalk wrote: > > > Den sön 26 aug. 2018 kl 09:26 skrev Paul Birkel via cctalk < > > > cctalk@classiccmp.org>: > > > > > > > Which length band did you find worked best as a replacement? > > > > > > > > > > I used the white three inch plastiband. Rik Bos told me that the best way > > > is to heat the old band slightly. I used a SMD desoldering air gun which > > I > > > set to 100 degrees centigrade and then blowed heat air onto the tape from > > > some distance until it changed from a white matte surface into a darker > > > brown surface. > > > > Hmm. 3" plastiband seem to be rare or my Google-foo is pretty bad. > > > > Do you have a source for these? > > > > I have found only 2-1/8", 4-1/4" and 6" so far. > > > > The SF-7000 contain a number of different sizes. 1 1/2 inch, 2 1/8 inch, 3 > 5/8, 4 1/4 inch and 6 inch > > http://www.officedirectsupply.com/sf7000_baumgartens_plastiband_77071_prd1.htm > > On the other hand I haven't found a source for the 6 inch variant (that > actually could deliver them) other than in the mixed package. Got it. Thanks. So, 3-5/8" is actual. I was being too picky about your 3" statement :-) It seems to be well known that the number of each size you get in the SF-7000 package is, umm, random... so a guy needs to get several packages and hope for plenty of white ones. Thanks again, Chris -- Chris Elmquist
Re: Dilog DQ604 RL01 / RL02 emulation on ST506/ST412 disk.
Den tis 28 aug. 2018 kl 19:50 skrev Chris Elmquist : > On Tuesday (08/28/2018 at 11:25AM +0200), Mattis Lind via cctalk wrote: > > Den sön 26 aug. 2018 kl 09:26 skrev Paul Birkel via cctalk < > > cctalk@classiccmp.org>: > > > > > Which length band did you find worked best as a replacement? > > > > > > > I used the white three inch plastiband. Rik Bos told me that the best way > > is to heat the old band slightly. I used a SMD desoldering air gun which > I > > set to 100 degrees centigrade and then blowed heat air onto the tape from > > some distance until it changed from a white matte surface into a darker > > brown surface. > > Hmm. 3" plastiband seem to be rare or my Google-foo is pretty bad. > > Do you have a source for these? > > I have found only 2-1/8", 4-1/4" and 6" so far. > The SF-7000 contain a number of different sizes. 1 1/2 inch, 2 1/8 inch, 3 5/8, 4 1/4 inch and 6 inch http://www.officedirectsupply.com/sf7000_baumgartens_plastiband_77071_prd1.htm On the other hand I haven't found a source for the 6 inch variant (that actually could deliver them) other than in the mixed package. /Mattis > > Tack. > -- > Chris Elmquist >
Re: Dilog DQ604 RL01 / RL02 emulation on ST506/ST412 disk.
On Tuesday (08/28/2018 at 11:25AM +0200), Mattis Lind via cctalk wrote: > Den sön 26 aug. 2018 kl 09:26 skrev Paul Birkel via cctalk < > cctalk@classiccmp.org>: > > > Which length band did you find worked best as a replacement? > > > > I used the white three inch plastiband. Rik Bos told me that the best way > is to heat the old band slightly. I used a SMD desoldering air gun which I > set to 100 degrees centigrade and then blowed heat air onto the tape from > some distance until it changed from a white matte surface into a darker > brown surface. Hmm. 3" plastiband seem to be rare or my Google-foo is pretty bad. Do you have a source for these? I have found only 2-1/8", 4-1/4" and 6" so far. Tack. -- Chris Elmquist
Re: Epson HX-20, TRS-80 Model 100 Capacitor Kits
never, EVER use a drill. add more solder and keep heating the corroded solder, it will eventually melt and mix with new solder. using a drill will destroy the board. Enviado do meu Tele-Movel On Tue, Aug 28, 2018, 03:38 Marvin Johnston via cctalk < cctalk@classiccmp.org> wrote: > Since I have at least four Model 100 and HX-20s, I've decided to just > replace all the aluminum electrolytics before repair becomes much more > difficult. So far, I see the project as fairly easy depending on how bad > the corrosion from the leaking caps is. > > Is anyone interested in buying a kit or two of the capacitors? I'm > guessing buying the parts from DigiKey at low quantity prices will > result in about $3.50 or so for the bag of about 13 capacitors. US > postage will probably run a couple of dollars or so, but I can also > bring them with me to VCFMW. I'll be ordering what I need unless I hear > others might want the kits as well. > > On a similar topic, has anyone given up on cleaning out the corroded > plated-Thru-Holes, and just soldered on some SMD caps? If so, how did it > work out? > > Finally, just some observations on the corrosion. I finally found some > information about the corrosion caused by leaking aluminum caps. It > sounds like the leaking fluid, besides possibly damaging the copper > traces, also does something to the solder in the PTH such that a > soldering iron won't melt the solder. Right now, the solder doesn't want > to melt so I will use a pin vise and about a number 62 drill or so to > hand drill out the PTH solder. >
Re: Dilog DQ604 RL01 / RL02 emulation on ST506/ST412 disk.
Den sön 26 aug. 2018 kl 09:26 skrev Paul Birkel via cctalk < cctalk@classiccmp.org>: > Which length band did you find worked best as a replacement? > I used the white three inch plastiband. Rik Bos told me that the best way is to heat the old band slightly. I used a SMD desoldering air gun which I set to 100 degrees centigrade and then blowed heat air onto the tape from some distance until it changed from a white matte surface into a darker brown surface. Then it easily came of the tape without damaging the tape. There were some kind of residue left which I used isopropyl alcohol to remove. I also added some lubricant to the tape rollers. This far I have recovered ten tapes successfully. Two tapes only read 128 blocks. I used RT11 to recover the tapes but it seems that the /IGNORE option doesn't skip bad blocks at all. I had the hope that COPY/DEV/FILE/IGMORE DD0: TU58.DSK would skip the bad blocks. But I might be misunderstanding the syntax? I will try to use DUP directly and see if that makes any difference. Something like * TU58.DSK/F=DD0:/I/J But according to the manual it just skip the bad block which is annoying since then all remaining blocks is shifted block number wise. Probably have to manually recreate the structure using dd? /Mattis > > -Original Message- > From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-boun...@classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of Mattis > Lind via cctalk > Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2018 2:50 AM > To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts; Al Kossow > Subject: Dilog DQ604 RL01 / RL02 emulation on ST506/ST412 disk. > > I unearthed some old TU58 tapes that luckily was readable (after carefully > replacing the tension band) > > - > >
Epson HX-20, TRS-80 Model 100 Capacitor Kits
Since I have at least four Model 100 and HX-20s, I've decided to just replace all the aluminum electrolytics before repair becomes much more difficult. So far, I see the project as fairly easy depending on how bad the corrosion from the leaking caps is. Is anyone interested in buying a kit or two of the capacitors? I'm guessing buying the parts from DigiKey at low quantity prices will result in about $3.50 or so for the bag of about 13 capacitors. US postage will probably run a couple of dollars or so, but I can also bring them with me to VCFMW. I'll be ordering what I need unless I hear others might want the kits as well. On a similar topic, has anyone given up on cleaning out the corroded plated-Thru-Holes, and just soldered on some SMD caps? If so, how did it work out? Finally, just some observations on the corrosion. I finally found some information about the corrosion caused by leaking aluminum caps. It sounds like the leaking fluid, besides possibly damaging the copper traces, also does something to the solder in the PTH such that a soldering iron won't melt the solder. Right now, the solder doesn't want to melt so I will use a pin vise and about a number 62 drill or so to hand drill out the PTH solder.
