Re: Stus-List Diesel additive
Last fall prior to haul out I purchased diesel from a marina and failed to check whether it was highway fuel or the farm stuff; I am wondering now whether I should add something to the fuel to boost the sulphur content? Boat is a 1987 33-II, engine is 2GM; Should I add anything: and if so, what would be the best diesel fuel additive; What is the risk or harm if I don't? (With apologies to all who have covered this topic before) Many thanks... Richard 1987 33-II; Ohio River, Mile 584 Richard N. Bush Law Offices 235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor Louisville, Kentucky 40202 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Dennis C. capt...@yahoo.com To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tue, May 14, 2013 11:09 pm Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 Blues - Redux Did it die suddenly? A common problem with A4's is the coil. If it starts when cold and then dies after a half hour or so, immediately go below and touch the coil. If it is extremely hot, it may have an internal short. One of my A4's had that. I replaced the coil and the problem went away. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA From: Bob Moriarty bobmo...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 7:42 PM Subject: Stus-List A4 Blues - Redux I know that if I'm seeking resolution I should go to Moyer Marine, but if commiseration is needed, here's the place. The ol' A4 again died, 3rd time in 8 years. This time on my way back to the dock with a gentle following breeze and an opposing current. Easy-peasy getting Ox back on the dock. Seems like a fuel problem this time. I'll go through the troubleshooting steps this weekend. Life with a classic... Bob M Ox 33-1 Jax, FL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle
Been wondering about this - servicing/rebuilding fuel injectors - is it worth redoing 30+ year old ones for 50-75% of the cost of new ones? Nate Sarah Jean 1980 30-1 Siskiwit Bay Marina Lake Superior Cornucopia, WI On Tue, May 14, 2013 at 10:18 PM, Russ Melody russ...@telus.net wrote: Hi Don, The black junk that plugs the mixing elbow can certainly be unburned carbon from a bad injector. A Yanmar that has only 1800 is a long way from the 5,000 hours you can get from an abused one these puppies. 10,000 hours is attainable with decent care. It probably just needs servicing, not replacing or a rebuild. My advice is get a guy to remove the injectors and bring them up to Nanaimo to have 'em serviced/rebuilt by Floyd at Action Fuel Injection. He is the best diesel fuel system dude on Vancouver Island. I think the latest guess is $100 - 150 per injector... but maybe phone Floyd for a chat. ****Cheers, Russ *****Sweet *35 mk-1 At 10:28 AM 14/05/2013, you wrote: Hi Kim Thanks for this. It is what I'm worried about. The boat has started to blow extra smoke on start and I'm thinking unburned diesel. It also blows smoke when you idle down for a bit and then rev up again. Once warmed up it seems fine. I've got a mechanic coming in a couple of weeks (they are backed up here in Victoria). What I worry about is the slippery slope on an old engine. It is 1981 with around 1800 hours and raw water cooled. It runs fairly nicely but. I also worry about the cost of a new engine which would not materially change the value of the boat - as people were saying earlier - boats cheap, parts expensive. How many boat units did getting the injectors cost if you don't mind sharing. Don -Original Message- From: Kim Brown [ mailto:kimcbr...@comcast.net kimcbr...@comcast.net] Sent: May-13-13 2:50 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle Don Just went through this with my 3GMF30. Had Diesel Dan (really) out because we are headed to the Abacos next month. (anyone going to be there for Regatta Time?) I was suspicious of injectors- boat was running but xtra smoke on start, oily exhaust water. So better here than there. Had the injectors rebuilt and as part of the looksie he checked elbow and assorted other potential trouble spots. The knuckle was almost closed with gunk and was replaced. Never did overheat but that may be more because there is flow tapped off for my dripless allowing some flow to continue besides the meager amount still passing through the knuckle. The injector rebuild really worked wonders- thought it was running ok before but now smoke is minimal, pops right off, runs cooler and smoother. My guess is the gunk was unburnt fuel building up. Your mileage may vary but that is another path to explore. I had replaced the elbow about a year ago and the knuckle was fine then so it built up relatively quickly. And I haven't sucked an impeller lately (on my FWC the vanes hang up at the front end of the heat exchanger and are a PITA to extract). Kim Brown Trust Me 35-3 Message: 3 Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 10:44:51 -0700 From: Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle Message-ID: 003f01ce5001$9250c7c0$b6f25740$@ca Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hello all I have an elderly Yanmar 3GMD engine that is raw water cooled. It has plugged twice in the last two years where the water goes through a knuckle into the mixing elbow. The first time (summer before last) was some solid bit that had gotten stuck - how it got there I don't know. The last time (last week) was due to a tar like substance gumming up the knuckle. Easy to clear and I was on my way, but is this a harbinger of something more serious. I took the mixing elbow off a few years back and cleaned it, guess it is time to do that again. Is the plugging coming from the exhaust and working its way into the knuckle - for example unburned diesel? Thanks for any insight. Don ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List A4 Blues - Redux
Seriously - I would move this to the Moyer forum. Excellent advice over there. Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 11:09 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 Blues - Redux Did it die suddenly? A common problem with A4's is the coil. If it starts when cold and then dies after a half hour or so, immediately go below and touch the coil. If it is extremely hot, it may have an internal short. One of my A4's had that. I replaced the coil and the problem went away. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA From: Bob Moriarty bobmo...@gmail.commailto:bobmo...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 7:42 PM Subject: Stus-List A4 Blues - Redux I know that if I'm seeking resolution I should go to Moyer Marine, but if commiseration is needed, here's the place. The ol' A4 again died, 3rd time in 8 years. This time on my way back to the dock with a gentle following breeze and an opposing current. Easy-peasy getting Ox back on the dock. Seems like a fuel problem this time. I'll go through the troubleshooting steps this weekend. Life with a classic... Bob M Ox 33-1 Jax, FL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.comhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds
I need to put those plastic tubes over my turnbuckles and the stick is up. I'm pretty sure I can do this but need confirmation/guidance from the list. What's the safest way to go about this? My boat has one set of outer shrouds and one set of inner. I'll be putting the covers on the outer shroud turnbuckles only. Should I use a halyard as backup? I figure loosen tension on outer shrouds evenly. Put tension on halyard (fixed to toe rail) and release that side's shroud. Put cover on, loosely re-attach turnbuckle and do over again on the other side. Once done tension the shrouds properly. Is this right? I've got a brand new genoa and I'de like to protect it best I can. Thanks Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Boat Name - Font
Thanks Dennis, I thought it was you who sent that font and I looked for your mail in my inbox and found your reference to Segoe and Segoe script there. Niether is the font I remember but they are nice. I am close to settling on this: Alianna which is Maiandra GT bold italic and I want to get the individual letters shadowed in gold metallic. I seem to recall liking the way some of the letters came out in the font I am looking for and I would like to compare. Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. Sent: May 15, 2013 10:07 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Name - Font Look at Segoe, Segoe Script or Mistral fonts. Dennis C. _ From: dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 7:36 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Name - Font Someone on the list in the last few months recommended what a thought to be a nice font to use for a boat name but I can't remember the font or who recommended it. Help Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds
Steve, Wouldn't bother with the halyard. You could slit the tube, slide it over the wire, lower it and tape it. Or just tape the pins without tubes. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 9:34 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.comwrote: I need to put those plastic tubes over my turnbuckles and the stick is up. I'm pretty sure I can do this but need confirmation/guidance from the list. What's the safest way to go about this? My boat has one set of outer shrouds and one set of inner. I'll be putting the covers on the outer shroud turnbuckles only. Should I use a halyard as backup? I figure loosen tension on outer shrouds evenly. Put tension on halyard (fixed to toe rail) and release that side's shroud. Put cover on, loosely re-attach turnbuckle and do over again on the other side. Once done tension the shrouds properly. Is this right? I've got a brand new genoa and I'de like to protect it best I can. Thanks Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds
Steve, Completely agree with Joel. Don't disconnect a thing and slit the tubes. They'll just slide over and you can tape them up with electrical or atomic tape. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website (THE COUNTDOWN IS RUNNING!) On May 15, 2013, at 9:38 AM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Steve, Wouldn't bother with the halyard. You could slit the tube, slide it over the wire, lower it and tape it. Or just tape the pins without tubes. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 9:34 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: I need to put those plastic tubes over my turnbuckles and the stick is up. I'm pretty sure I can do this but need confirmation/guidance from the list. What's the safest way to go about this? My boat has one set of outer shrouds and one set of inner. I'll be putting the covers on the outer shroud turnbuckles only. Should I use a halyard as backup? I figure loosen tension on outer shrouds evenly. Put tension on halyard (fixed to toe rail) and release that side's shroud. Put cover on, loosely re-attach turnbuckle and do over again on the other side. Once done tension the shrouds properly. Is this right? I've got a brand new genoa and I'de like to protect it best I can. Thanks Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds
I agree with Joel. With no load on the mast, you can take the outers off, install the tubes and reattach without a problem - the inners will hold the mast in place. (I am speaking of experience with a 30-1, which has a very stiff mast, yours may be different, but I doubt it.) Be sure when you re-tension everything, the mast is in column and even on both sides. Gary - Original Message - From: Stevan Plavsa To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:34 AM Subject: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds I need to put those plastic tubes over my turnbuckles and the stick is up. I'm pretty sure I can do this but need confirmation/guidance from the list. What's the safest way to go about this? My boat has one set of outer shrouds and one set of inner. I'll be putting the covers on the outer shroud turnbuckles only. Should I use a halyard as backup? I figure loosen tension on outer shrouds evenly. Put tension on halyard (fixed to toe rail) and release that side's shroud. Put cover on, loosely re-attach turnbuckle and do over again on the other side. Once done tension the shrouds properly. Is this right? I've got a brand new genoa and I'de like to protect it best I can. Thanks Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds
If the sails are mot up, any one shroud can be disconnected without jeopardising the rig. Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2013-05-15, at 10:34, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: cover on, loosely re-attach ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds
Steve: As long as the lower shroud is attached, you won't need the halyard attached to the toe rail but it can't hurt. Also, put a tube over the 'baby stay' up front. Your sail will take more of a beating on this one than your shrouds. I also have the wire on my baby stay covered in plastic as well. Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2013/05/15 10:38 AM, Joel Aronson wrote: Steve, Wouldn't bother with the halyard. You could slit the tube, slide it over the wire, lower it and tape it. Or just tape the pins without tubes. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 9:34 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com mailto:stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: I need to put those plastic tubes over my turnbuckles and the stick is up. I'm pretty sure I can do this but need confirmation/guidance from the list. What's the safest way to go about this? My boat has one set of outer shrouds and one set of inner. I'll be putting the covers on the outer shroud turnbuckles only. Should I use a halyard as backup? I figure loosen tension on outer shrouds evenly. Put tension on halyard (fixed to toe rail) and release that side's shroud. Put cover on, loosely re-attach turnbuckle and do over again on the other side. Once done tension the shrouds properly. Is this right? I've got a brand new genoa and I'de like to protect it best I can. Thanks Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds
If I have the option to put the tubes on without splitting them, I would not split them agree with Tim on this one..just more unnecessary hassles. Bob Abbott AZURA\CC 32 - 84 Halifax, NS On 2013/05/15 10:58 AM, Tim Sippel wrote: Hi Steve, a CC 32 is keel stepped I believe , you can safely release one shroud at a time and but the boots on ... I do it every year . Slitting the boot and putting tape on it could result in adhesive and then dirt transferring to your sail . Tim *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Stevan Plavsa *Sent:* Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:34 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds I need to put those plastic tubes over my turnbuckles and the stick is up. I'm pretty sure I can do this but need confirmation/guidance from the list. What's the safest way to go about this? My boat has one set of outer shrouds and one set of inner. I'll be putting the covers on the outer shroud turnbuckles only. Should I use a halyard as backup? I figure loosen tension on outer shrouds evenly. Put tension on halyard (fixed to toe rail) and release that side's shroud. Put cover on, loosely re-attach turnbuckle and do over again on the other side. Once done tension the shrouds properly. Is this right? I've got a brand new genoa and I'de like to protect it best I can. Thanks Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be subject to copyright and legal privilege and no related rights are waived. If you are not the intended recipient or its agent, any review, dissemination, distribution or copying of this e-mail or any of its content is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. All messages may be monitored as permitted by applicable law and regulations and our policies to protect our business. E-mails are not secure and you are deemed to have accepted any risk if you communicate with us by e-mail. If received in error, please notify us immediately and delete the e-mail (and any attachments) from any computer or any storage medium without printing a copy. Ce courriel (ainsi que ses pièces jointes) est confidentiel, exclusif, et peut faire l'objet de droit d'auteur et de privilège juridique; aucun droit connexe n'est exclu. Si vous n'êtes pas le destinataire visé ou son représentant, toute étude, diffusion, transmission ou copie de ce courriel en tout ou en partie, est strictement interdite et peut être illégale. Tous les messages peuvent être surveillés, selon les lois et règlements applicables et les politiques de protection de notre entreprise. Les courriels ne sont pas sécurisés et vous êtes réputés avoir accepté tous les risques qui y sont liés si vous choisissez de communiquer avec nous par ce moyen. Si vous avez reçu ce message par erreur, veuillez nous en aviser immédiatement et supprimer ce courriel (ainsi que toutes ses pièces jointes) de tout ordinateur ou support de données sans en imprimer une copie. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds
Thanks all. I figured I'de be ok but your feedback leaves me with some peace of mind and that'll make the job, any job, easier. Bob, no baby stay on mine . weird eh? I know the 32 had one, mine doesn't. However mine does have a weird metal tube thingy on the floor of the vee birth .. right by the door. The surveyor guessed that it might have had something to do with a baby stay though there is no evidence on deck of there ever being one. Is your baby stay just connected to a fitting on deck? I'm hull number 59 so I figure by then they would have settled on how they were building these but i guess not. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 10:07 AM, Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.cawrote: If I have the option to put the tubes on without splitting them, I would not split them agree with Tim on this one..just more unnecessary hassles. Bob Abbott AZURA\CC 32 - 84 Halifax, NS On 2013/05/15 10:58 AM, Tim Sippel wrote: Hi Steve, a CC 32 is keel stepped I believe , you can safely release one shroud at a time and but the “boots” on … I do it every year . Slitting the boot and putting tape on it could result in adhesive and then dirt transferring to your sail . ** ** Tim *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.comcnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Stevan Plavsa *Sent:* Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:34 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds ** ** I need to put those plastic tubes over my turnbuckles and the stick is up. I'm pretty sure I can do this but need confirmation/guidance from the list. What's the safest way to go about this? My boat has one set of outer shrouds and one set of inner. I'll be putting the covers on the outer shroud turnbuckles only. ** ** Should I use a halyard as backup? I figure loosen tension on outer shrouds evenly. Put tension on halyard (fixed to toe rail) and release that side's shroud. Put cover on, loosely re-attach turnbuckle and do over again on the other side. Once done tension the shrouds properly. Is this right? ** ** I've got a brand new genoa and I'de like to protect it best I can. ** ** Thanks ** ** Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be subject to copyright and legal privilege and no related rights are waived. If you are not the intended recipient or its agent, any review, dissemination, distribution or copying of this e-mail or any of its content is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. All messages may be monitored as permitted by applicable law and regulations and our policies to protect our business. E-mails are not secure and you are deemed to have accepted any risk if you communicate with us by e-mail. If received in error, please notify us immediately and delete the e-mail (and any attachments) from any computer or any storage medium without printing a copy. Ce courriel (ainsi que ses pièces jointes) est confidentiel, exclusif, et peut faire l’objet de droit d’auteur et de privilège juridique; aucun droit connexe n’est exclu. Si vous n’êtes pas le destinataire visé ou son représentant, toute étude, diffusion, transmission ou copie de ce courriel en tout ou en partie, est strictement interdite et peut être illégale. Tous les messages peuvent être surveillés, selon les lois et règlements applicables et les politiques de protection de notre entreprise. Les courriels ne sont pas sécurisés et vous êtes réputés avoir accepté tous les risques qui y sont liés si vous choisissez de communiquer avec nous par ce moyen. Si vous avez reçu ce message par erreur, veuillez nous en aviser immédiatement et supprimer ce courriel (ainsi que toutes ses pièces jointes) de tout ordinateur ou support de données sans en imprimer une copie. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comcnc-l...@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Electrical Advice?
After steeping the mast, I hooked up the various lights (running, bow, foredeck).Mast head light did not come onmy guess is a blown bulb or the bulb connection could be bad. I am no electrician but I do have a digital multimeter. Is there a 'test' with the multimeter that can suggest that it is a blown bulb or a bad bulb connection? A simple 'yes' answer will not suffice.step by step explanation would be helpful. I ask this because getting the the top of my mast is a 3 person taskone to up, one to grind and one to tail. If I know it is the bulb, I can plan for a fix accordingly. Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Baby Stay
Thanks Bob. That certainly explains the fitting/tube thingy on the floor of the vee birth. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 10:48 AM, Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.cawrote: Steve: Mine is hull #277the baby stay is on a tunrbuckle connected to the deck.there is a 'SS rod' that runs from the deck to the floor connection in the vee birth that supports the upwards pull of the baby stay. A few of the 32 owners here have simply taken their baby stay off the boat(s). Since Rob Ball designed it there, I have left mine on. It does make tacking a little more cumbersome. Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, NS On 2013/05/15 11:32 AM, Stevan Plavsa wrote: Thanks all. I figured I'de be ok but your feedback leaves me with some peace of mind and that'll make the job, any job, easier. Bob, no baby stay on mine . weird eh? I know the 32 had one, mine doesn't. However mine does have a weird metal tube thingy on the floor of the vee birth .. right by the door. The surveyor guessed that it might have had something to do with a baby stay though there is no evidence on deck of there ever being one. Is your baby stay just connected to a fitting on deck? I'm hull number 59 so I figure by then they would have settled on how they were building these but i guess not. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice?
There is not a lot to a masthead light. I would suggest that you just bring a bulb, some solder, a butane soldering iron, some tape, an xacto knife, and maybe even a spare socket and a few bits of shrink tubing. The bulb and socket are very inexpensive items. From the deck, all you can really test is if you have 12 volts and a good ground at the lower end of the wire, and you can detect that you have either a blown bulb, a corroded contact or a broken wire somewhere making for an open circuit. Very high probability that the socket is simply corroded a little. You would be cleaning the contacts anyway, even if the repair is replacing the bulb. I have a rig for climbing the mast myself. It's basically a home made version of the ATN topclimber, made with better parts. I always try to bring everything I can think of with me, including a camera, and minimize trips. Bill Bina On 5/15/2013 10:38 AM, Robert Abbott wrote: After steeping the mast, I hooked up the various lights (running, bow, foredeck).Mast head light did not come onmy guess is a blown bulb or the bulb connection could be bad. I am no electrician but I do have a digital multimeter. Is there a 'test' with the multimeter that can suggest that it is a blown bulb or a bad bulb connection? A simple 'yes' answer will not suffice.step by step explanation would be helpful. I ask this because getting the the top of my mast is a 3 person taskone to up, one to grind and one to tail. If I know it is the bulb, I can plan for a fix accordingly. Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice?
Set your meter to read resistance (ohms) Touch the red and black probes together to test the meter. You should see 0 ohms when touching and OL (out of limits) when not touching Attach the common (black) probe to a ground wire (black or yellow) at the mast base junction Touch the meter's red probe to the positive wires at the junction Readings Out of limits - open circuit, i.e. burned out bulb or bulb not making good contact in socket Some ohm reading - resistance shows good bulb 0 ohms - shorted circuit Dennis C. From: Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:38 AM Subject: Stus-List Electrical Advice? After steeping the mast, I hooked up the various lights (running, bow, foredeck). Mast head light did not come onmy guess is a blown bulb or the bulb connection could be bad. I am no electrician but I do have a digital multimeter. Is there a 'test' with the multimeter that can suggest that it is a blown bulb or a bad bulb connection? A simple 'yes' answer will not suffice.step by step explanation would be helpful. I ask this because getting the the top of my mast is a 3 person taskone to up, one to grind and one to tail. If I know it is the bulb, I can plan for a fix accordingly. Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice?
I don't think that a continuity check will help. If the bulb is blown = no connectivity. If the fixture is corroded/bad connection = no connectivity. I might be wrong on the blown bulb but that's my take on it. I could check with the multimeter that you are getting 12V at the base of the mast where the lights connect. That way you at least know whether the problem is on top of the mast (blown bulb, bad connection) or somewhere more accessible (between your panel and the mast). Set the multimeter to DC and put the positive and negative leads on the appropriate wire connections wherever your mast wiring goes to .. should read 12.something with the power on. If no reading then your problem is not on the mast. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 10:53 AM, Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.cawrote: Bill Coleman wrote: an ohm meter check through the positive and negative wires should show connectivity if the filament is not blown. O.K., so what do I look for doing an ohm meter check? What should the ohm meter be reading if the bulb is not blown? Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, NS On 2013/05/15 11:44 AM, Bill Coleman wrote: I am no electrician, but I would think that (if it is a regular bulb) an ohm meter check through the positive and negative wires should show connectivity if the filament is not blown. Bill Coleman CC 39 -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-bounces@cnc-**list.comcnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Abbott Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 10:39 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Electrical Advice? After steeping the mast, I hooked up the various lights (running, bow, foredeck).Mast head light did not come onmy guess is a blown bulb or the bulb connection could be bad. I am no electrician but I do have a digital multimeter. Is there a 'test' with the multimeter that can suggest that it is a blown bulb or a bad bulb connection? A simple 'yes' answer will not suffice.step by step explanation would be helpful. I ask this because getting the the top of my mast is a 3 person taskone to up, one to grind and one to tail. If I know it is the bulb, I can plan for a fix accordingly. Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. __**_ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com __**_ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com __**_ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice?
Unfortunately there is no way to isolate the problem between a blown bulb or a bad connection in the socket. Both will read as open circuit; a good bulb and connection should read a few Ohms of resistance. (Cold bulb less than 5) Make sure you have good, clean connection at the mast base. Leslie Phoenix CC32 From: Bill Coleman colt...@verizon.net To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 7:44 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice? I am no electrician, but I would think that (if it is a regular bulb) an ohm meter check through the positive and negative wires should show connectivity if the filament is not blown. Bill Coleman CC 39 -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Abbott Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 10:39 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Electrical Advice? After steeping the mast, I hooked up the various lights (running, bow, foredeck). Mast head light did not come onmy guess is a blown bulb or the bulb connection could be bad. I am no electrician but I do have a digital multimeter. Is there a 'test' with the multimeter that can suggest that it is a blown bulb or a bad bulb connection? A simple 'yes' answer will not suffice.step by step explanation would be helpful. I ask this because getting the the top of my mast is a 3 person taskone to up, one to grind and one to tail. If I know it is the bulb, I can plan for a fix accordingly. Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice?
Make sure the battery 12V is NOT connecter to the circuit, i.e. the masthead light switch is not on. You can fry your meter otherwise or at least get incorrect result. Leslie From: Dennis C. capt...@yahoo.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 7:56 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice? Set your meter to read resistance (ohms) Touch the red and black probes together to test the meter. You should see 0 ohms when touching and OL (out of limits) when not touching Attach the common (black) probe to a ground wire (black or yellow) at the mast base junction Touch the meter's red probe to the positive wires at the junction Readings Out of limits - open circuit, i.e. burned out bulb or bulb not making good contact in socket Some ohm reading - resistance shows good bulb 0 ohms - shorted circuit Dennis C. From: Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:38 AM Subject: Stus-List Electrical Advice? After steeping the mast, I hooked up the various lights (running, bow, foredeck). Mast head light did not come onmy guess is a blown bulb or the bulb connection could be bad. I am no electrician but I do have a digital multimeter. Is there a 'test' with the multimeter that can suggest that it is a blown bulb or a bad bulb connection? A simple 'yes' answer will not suffice.step by step explanation would be helpful. I ask this because getting the the top of my mast is a 3 person taskone to up, one to grind and one to tail. If I know it is the bulb, I can plan for a fix accordingly. Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds
Bob I think these tubes are properly called turn buckle boots and they have boot caps which usually are split on Alianna I tape the split caps fast to the boot because the sail and sheet action cause them to ride up the shrouds sometimes. Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Abbott Sent: May 15, 2013 11:07 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds If I have the option to put the tubes on without splitting them, I would not split them agree with Tim on this one..just more unnecessary hassles. Bob Abbott AZURA\CC 32 - 84 Halifax, NS On 2013/05/15 10:58 AM, Tim Sippel wrote: Hi Steve, a CC 32 is keel stepped I believe , you can safely release one shroud at a time and but the boots on I do it every year . Slitting the boot and putting tape on it could result in adhesive and then dirt transferring to your sail . Tim From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:34 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds I need to put those plastic tubes over my turnbuckles and the stick is up. I'm pretty sure I can do this but need confirmation/guidance from the list. What's the safest way to go about this? My boat has one set of outer shrouds and one set of inner. I'll be putting the covers on the outer shroud turnbuckles only. Should I use a halyard as backup? I figure loosen tension on outer shrouds evenly. Put tension on halyard (fixed to toe rail) and release that side's shroud. Put cover on, loosely re-attach turnbuckle and do over again on the other side. Once done tension the shrouds properly. Is this right? I've got a brand new genoa and I'de like to protect it best I can. Thanks Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be subject to copyright and legal privilege and no related rights are waived. If you are not the intended recipient or its agent, any review, dissemination, distribution or copying of this e-mail or any of its content is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. All messages may be monitored as permitted by applicable law and regulations and our policies to protect our business. E-mails are not secure and you are deemed to have accepted any risk if you communicate with us by e-mail. If received in error, please notify us immediately and delete the e-mail (and any attachments) from any computer or any storage medium without printing a copy. Ce courriel (ainsi que ses pièces jointes) est confidentiel, exclusif, et peut faire lobjet de droit dauteur et de privilège juridique; aucun droit connexe nest exclu. Si vous nêtes pas le destinataire visé ou son représentant, toute étude, diffusion, transmission ou copie de ce courriel en tout ou en partie, est strictement interdite et peut être illégale. Tous les messages peuvent être surveillés, selon les lois et règlements applicables et les politiques de protection de notre entreprise. Les courriels ne sont pas sécurisés et vous êtes réputés avoir accepté tous les risques qui y sont liés si vous choisissez de communiquer avec nous par ce moyen. Si vous avez reçu ce message par erreur, veuillez nous en aviser immédiatement et supprimer ce courriel (ainsi que toutes ses pièces jointes) de tout ordinateur ou support de données sans en imprimer une copie. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com _ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5825 - Release Date: 05/15/13 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice?
Yes...measure ohms across the wires at the base of the mast Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Abbott Sent: May 15, 2013 11:39 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Electrical Advice? After steeping the mast, I hooked up the various lights (running, bow, foredeck).Mast head light did not come onmy guess is a blown bulb or the bulb connection could be bad. I am no electrician but I do have a digital multimeter. Is there a 'test' with the multimeter that can suggest that it is a blown bulb or a bad bulb connection? A simple 'yes' answer will not suffice.step by step explanation would be helpful. I ask this because getting the the top of my mast is a 3 person taskone to up, one to grind and one to tail. If I know it is the bulb, I can plan for a fix accordingly. Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5825 - Release Date: 05/15/13 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Electrical Advice?
Dennis: Thank you for the step by step advice. I have the meter here now and it reads 0 ohms when I touch the red and black probes..my meter reads 1 . when not touching.not OL (out of limits) . I guess all meters are not the same. One more question.when I do this test, do I have the 12V switch for the mast head light ON or OFF at the electrical panel? I told you I was no electrician! Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, NS On 2013/05/15 11:56 AM, Dennis C. wrote: Set your meter to read resistance (ohms) Touch the red and black probes together to test the meter. You should see 0 ohms when touching and OL (out of limits) when not touching Attach the common (black) probe to a ground wire (black or yellow) at the mast base junction Touch the meter's red probe to the positive wires at the junction Readings Out of limits - open circuit, i.e. burned out bulb or bulb not making good contact in socket Some ohm reading - resistance shows good bulb 0 ohms - shorted circuit Dennis C. *From:* Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent:* Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:38 AM *Subject:* Stus-List Electrical Advice? After steeping the mast, I hooked up the various lights (running, bow, foredeck).Mast head light did not come onmy guess is a blown bulb or the bulb connection could be bad. I am no electrician but I do have a digital multimeter. Is there a 'test' with the multimeter that can suggest that it is a blown bulb or a bad bulb connection? A simple 'yes' answer will not suffice.step by step explanation would be helpful. I ask this because getting the the top of my mast is a 3 person taskone to up, one to grind and one to tail. If I know it is the bulb, I can plan for a fix accordingly. Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List A4 Blues - Redux
When I had an A4 on a previous boat, I had the same problem. There was a filter on the end of the fuel pickup tube that was clogged. At low speed the engine worked fine, but at higher engine rpm's, the engine was fuel starved, and it cut out. Remove the pickup tube from the tank, and clean the filter (if there is one). I used 3M All Purpose adhesive Cleaner, but any solvent that will dissolve the clog will work. I'm willing to bet that will cure your problem. Alan Bergen CC 35 Mk III Thirsty Rose City YC Portland, OR ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice?
12 V OFF, just test across the 2 wires leading to the light.disconnect them at the base of the mast, a reading of zero ohms suggests a blown bulb, bad connection for the bulb or broken wire (s). Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Abbott Sent: May 15, 2013 12:32 PM To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Electrical Advice? Dennis: Thank you for the step by step advice. I have the meter here now and it reads 0 ohms when I touch the red and black probes..my meter reads 1 . when not touching.not OL (out of limits) . I guess all meters are not the same. One more question.when I do this test, do I have the 12V switch for the mast head light ON or OFF at the electrical panel? I told you I was no electrician! Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, NS On 2013/05/15 11:56 AM, Dennis C. wrote: Set your meter to read resistance (ohms) Touch the red and black probes together to test the meter. You should see 0 ohms when touching and OL (out of limits) when not touching Attach the common (black) probe to a ground wire (black or yellow) at the mast base junction Touch the meter's red probe to the positive wires at the junction Readings Out of limits - open circuit, i.e. burned out bulb or bulb not making good contact in socket Some ohm reading - resistance shows good bulb 0 ohms - shorted circuit Dennis C. _ From: Robert Abbott mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca robertabb...@eastlink.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:38 AM Subject: Stus-List Electrical Advice? After steeping the mast, I hooked up the various lights (running, bow, foredeck).Mast head light did not come onmy guess is a blown bulb or the bulb connection could be bad. I am no electrician but I do have a digital multimeter. Is there a 'test' with the multimeter that can suggest that it is a blown bulb or a bad bulb connection? A simple 'yes' answer will not suffice.step by step explanation would be helpful. I ask this because getting the the top of my mast is a 3 person taskone to up, one to grind and one to tail. If I know it is the bulb, I can plan for a fix accordingly. Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com _ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5825 - Release Date: 05/15/13 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds
I call the caps .. damlostanotheronez Tim Toronto http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/city.html?n=250 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight veinot Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 11:28 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds Bob I think these tubes are properly called turn buckle boots and they have boot caps which usually are split...on Alianna I tape the split caps fast to the boot because the sail and sheet action cause them to ride up the shrouds sometimes. Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Abbott Sent: May 15, 2013 11:07 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds If I have the option to put the tubes on without splitting them, I would not split them agree with Tim on this one..just more unnecessary hassles. Bob Abbott AZURA\CC 32 - 84 Halifax, NS On 2013/05/15 10:58 AM, Tim Sippel wrote: Hi Steve, a CC 32 is keel stepped I believe , you can safely release one shroud at a time and but the boots on ... I do it every year . Slitting the boot and putting tape on it could result in adhesive and then dirt transferring to your sail . Tim From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:34 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds I need to put those plastic tubes over my turnbuckles and the stick is up. I'm pretty sure I can do this but need confirmation/guidance from the list. What's the safest way to go about this? My boat has one set of outer shrouds and one set of inner. I'll be putting the covers on the outer shroud turnbuckles only. Should I use a halyard as backup? I figure loosen tension on outer shrouds evenly. Put tension on halyard (fixed to toe rail) and release that side's shroud. Put cover on, loosely re-attach turnbuckle and do over again on the other side. Once done tension the shrouds properly. Is this right? I've got a brand new genoa and I'de like to protect it best I can. Thanks Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be subject to copyright and legal privilege and no related rights are waived. If you are not the intended recipient or its agent, any review, dissemination, distribution or copying of this e-mail or any of its content is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. All messages may be monitored as permitted by applicable law and regulations and our policies to protect our business. E-mails are not secure and you are deemed to have accepted any risk if you communicate with us by e-mail. If received in error, please notify us immediately and delete the e-mail (and any attachments) from any computer or any storage medium without printing a copy. Ce courriel (ainsi que ses pièces jointes) est confidentiel, exclusif, et peut faire l'objet de droit d'auteur et de privilège juridique; aucun droit connexe n'est exclu. Si vous n'êtes pas le destinataire visé ou son représentant, toute étude, diffusion, transmission ou copie de ce courriel en tout ou en partie, est strictement interdite et peut être illégale. Tous les messages peuvent être surveillés, selon les lois et règlements applicables et les politiques de protection de notre entreprise. Les courriels ne sont pas sécurisés et vous êtes réputés avoir accepté tous les risques qui y sont liés si vous choisissez de communiquer avec nous par ce moyen. Si vous avez reçu ce message par erreur, veuillez nous en aviser immédiatement et supprimer ce courriel (ainsi que toutes ses pièces jointes) de tout ordinateur ou support de données sans en imprimer une copie. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5825 - Release Date: 05/15/13 This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be subject to copyright and legal privilege and no related rights are waived. If you are not the intended recipient or its agent, any review, dissemination, distribution or copying of this e-mail or any of its content is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. All messages may be monitored as permitted by applicable law and regulations and our policies to protect our business. E-mails are not secure and you are deemed to have accepted
Stus-List Auto inflate PFD's
Preparing for an upcoming 100 mile offshore race. Thinking about adding an auto inflating PFD with harness to supplement our manual PFDs. There's some new ones out. Definitely want a hydrostatic (pressure activated) system. Right now the Mustang hydrostatic with harness (MD3184) is top candidate considering price and how infrequently we need it. Any other recommendations? Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds
Try taping them fast to the turn buckle boot with rigging tape: its much better than white electrical tape or no tape at all: they do seem to snap off easy if you dont tape them fast or buy a supply of extras works too Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Sippel Sent: May 15, 2013 12:57 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds I call the caps .. damlostanotheronez Tim http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/city.html?n=250 Toronto From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight veinot Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 11:28 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds Bob I think these tubes are properly called turn buckle boots and they have boot caps which usually are split on Alianna I tape the split caps fast to the boot because the sail and sheet action cause them to ride up the shrouds sometimes. Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Abbott Sent: May 15, 2013 11:07 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds If I have the option to put the tubes on without splitting them, I would not split them agree with Tim on this one..just more unnecessary hassles. Bob Abbott AZURA\CC 32 - 84 Halifax, NS On 2013/05/15 10:58 AM, Tim Sippel wrote: Hi Steve, a CC 32 is keel stepped I believe , you can safely release one shroud at a time and but the boots on I do it every year . Slitting the boot and putting tape on it could result in adhesive and then dirt transferring to your sail . Tim From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:34 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds I need to put those plastic tubes over my turnbuckles and the stick is up. I'm pretty sure I can do this but need confirmation/guidance from the list. What's the safest way to go about this? My boat has one set of outer shrouds and one set of inner. I'll be putting the covers on the outer shroud turnbuckles only. Should I use a halyard as backup? I figure loosen tension on outer shrouds evenly. Put tension on halyard (fixed to toe rail) and release that side's shroud. Put cover on, loosely re-attach turnbuckle and do over again on the other side. Once done tension the shrouds properly. Is this right? I've got a brand new genoa and I'de like to protect it best I can. Thanks Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be subject to copyright and legal privilege and no related rights are waived. If you are not the intended recipient or its agent, any review, dissemination, distribution or copying of this e-mail or any of its content is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. All messages may be monitored as permitted by applicable law and regulations and our policies to protect our business. E-mails are not secure and you are deemed to have accepted any risk if you communicate with us by e-mail. If received in error, please notify us immediately and delete the e-mail (and any attachments) from any computer or any storage medium without printing a copy. Ce courriel (ainsi que ses pièces jointes) est confidentiel, exclusif, et peut faire lobjet de droit dauteur et de privilège juridique; aucun droit connexe nest exclu. Si vous nêtes pas le destinataire visé ou son représentant, toute étude, diffusion, transmission ou copie de ce courriel en tout ou en partie, est strictement interdite et peut être illégale. Tous les messages peuvent être surveillés, selon les lois et règlements applicables et les politiques de protection de notre entreprise. Les courriels ne sont pas sécurisés et vous êtes réputés avoir accepté tous les risques qui y sont liés si vous choisissez de communiquer avec nous par ce moyen. Si vous avez reçu ce message par erreur, veuillez nous en aviser immédiatement et supprimer ce courriel (ainsi que toutes ses pièces jointes) de tout ordinateur ou support de données sans en imprimer une copie. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com _ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5825 - Release Date: 05/15/13 This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be subject to copyright and legal privilege and no related rights are waived. If you are not the intended recipient or its agent, any review, dissemination, distribution or copying of this e-mail or any of its content is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. All messages may be monitored as permitted by
Re: Stus-List Auto inflate PFD's
Aps has spin lock on sale Joel Aronson On May 15, 2013, at 12:08 PM, Dennis C. capt...@yahoo.com wrote: Preparing for an upcoming 100 mile offshore race. Thinking about adding an auto inflating PFD with harness to supplement our manual PFDs. There's some new ones out. Definitely want a hydrostatic (pressure activated) system. Right now the Mustang hydrostatic with harness (MD3184) is top candidate considering price and how infrequently we need it. Any other recommendations? Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Auto inflate PFD's
I'm in a similar situation, the Spinlock 5D 170N Hammer is currently winning out. Hydrostatic, built in harness, leg/crotch straps (required for pretty much all offshore racing now), webbing knife, whistle, strobe light on a pylon, spray hood, and into the deal, many retailers are throwing in a Spinlock tether. It's a few bucks more than the Mustang, but add in all the extra gear then it's actually a good deal. - Original Message - From: Dennis C. capt...@yahoo.com To: CnClist CnC-List@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:04:43 AM Subject: Stus-List Auto inflate PFD's Preparing for an upcoming 100 mile offshore race. Thinking about adding an auto inflating PFD with harness to supplement our manual PFDs. There's some new ones out. Definitely want a hydrostatic (pressure activated) system. Right now the Mustang hydrostatic with harness (MD3184) is top candidate considering price and how infrequently we need it. Any other recommendations? Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List A4 Blues - Redux
I'll hopefully get it fixed soon and report back. Yes, Moyer's is *the* place to go for all things A4. I was mainly lamenting the occasional downside of operating a 37 year old boat. Bob M Ox 33-1 Jax, FL On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 9:06 AM, Della Barba, Joe joe.della.ba...@ssa.govwrote: Seriously – I would move this to the Moyer forum. Excellent advice over there. ** ** *Joe Della Barba Coquina* ** ** *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis C. *Sent:* Tuesday, May 14, 2013 11:09 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List A4 Blues - Redux ** ** Did it die suddenly? A common problem with A4's is the coil. If it starts when cold and then dies after a half hour or so, immediately go below and touch the coil. If it is extremely hot, it may have an internal short. One of my A4's had that. I replaced the coil and the problem went away. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ** ** ** ** -- *From:* Bob Moriarty bobmo...@gmail.com *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent:* Tuesday, May 14, 2013 7:42 PM *Subject:* Stus-List A4 Blues - Redux ** ** I know that if I'm seeking resolution I should go to Moyer Marine, but if commiseration is needed, here's the place. ** ** The ol' A4 again died, 3rd time in 8 years. This time on my way back to the dock with a gentle following breeze and an opposing current. Easy-peasy getting Ox back on the dock. ** ** Seems like a fuel problem this time. I'll go through the troubleshooting steps this weekend. ** ** Life with a classic... ** ** Bob M Ox 33-1 Jax, FL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds / protecting sails
I got tired of wrapping my turnbuckles each spring with rigging tape, so made a set of wrap-pins (see http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId =10001 http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogI d=10001storeId=11151productId=312993langId=-1#.UZO2mkq63fA storeId=11151productId=312993langId=-1#.UZO2mkq63fA for commercially available ones. Makes the job of untensioning / re-tensioning the rig so easy and fast. All it took was a roll of double-sided velco, some cotter pins snipped to the right length, some whipping twine, and a few minutes to sew the pin to the velco. Jonathan Indigo - Southport CT _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:34 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds I need to put those plastic tubes over my turnbuckles and the stick is up. I'm pretty sure I can do this but need confirmation/guidance from the list. What's the safest way to go about this? My boat has one set of outer shrouds and one set of inner. I'll be putting the covers on the outer shroud turnbuckles only. Should I use a halyard as backup? I figure loosen tension on outer shrouds evenly. Put tension on halyard (fixed to toe rail) and release that side's shroud. Put cover on, loosely re-attach turnbuckle and do over again on the other side. Once done tension the shrouds properly. Is this right? I've got a brand new genoa and I'de like to protect it best I can. Thanks Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Auto inflate PFD's
The Spinlock is $380. Landfall Nav has the Mustang at $260. I already have tethers and lights. Any other options? Dennis C. From: Paul Baker pauljba...@shaw.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 11:16 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Auto inflate PFD's I'm in a similar situation, the Spinlock 5D 170N Hammer is currently winning out. Hydrostatic, built in harness, leg/crotch straps (required for pretty much all offshore racing now), webbing knife, whistle, strobe light on a pylon, spray hood, and into the deal, many retailers are throwing in a Spinlock tether. It's a few bucks more than the Mustang, but add in all the extra gear then it's actually a good deal. - Original Message - From: Dennis C. capt...@yahoo.com To: CnClist CnC-List@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:04:43 AM Subject: Stus-List Auto inflate PFD's Preparing for an upcoming 100 mile offshore race. Thinking about adding an auto inflating PFD with harness to supplement our manual PFDs. There's some new ones out. Definitely want a hydrostatic (pressure activated) system. Right now the Mustang hydrostatic with harness (MD3184) is top candidate considering price and how infrequently we need it. Any other recommendations? Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds / protecting sails
The J30 I race on has them. He adjusts his rig before almost every race. They are cheaper here: http://www.pyacht.com/johnson-wrap-pins.htm On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 12:29 PM, Indigo ind...@thethomsons.us wrote: I got tired of wrapping my turnbuckles each spring with rigging tape, so made a set of wrap-pins (see http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001storeId=11151productId=312993langId=-1#.UZO2mkq63fAfor commercially available ones. Makes the job of untensioning / re-tensioning the rig so easy and fast. All it took was a roll of double-sided velco, some cotter pins snipped to the right length, some whipping twine, and a few minutes to sew the pin to the velco. Jonathan Indigo – Southport CT -- *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Stevan Plavsa *Sent:* Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:34 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds I need to put those plastic tubes over my turnbuckles and the stick is up. I'm pretty sure I can do this but need confirmation/guidance from the list. What's the safest way to go about this? My boat has one set of outer shrouds and one set of inner. I'll be putting the covers on the outer shroud turnbuckles only. Should I use a halyard as backup? I figure loosen tension on outer shrouds evenly. Put tension on halyard (fixed to toe rail) and release that side's shroud. Put cover on, loosely re-attach turnbuckle and do over again on the other side. Once done tension the shrouds properly. Is this right? I've got a brand new genoa and I'de like to protect it best I can. Thanks Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Auto inflate PFD's
Check the Defender sale. On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 12:30 PM, Dennis C. capt...@yahoo.com wrote: The Spinlock is $380. Landfall Nav has the Mustang at $260. I already have tethers and lights. Any other options? Dennis C. -- *From:* Paul Baker pauljba...@shaw.ca *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent:* Wednesday, May 15, 2013 11:16 AM *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Auto inflate PFD's I'm in a similar situation, the Spinlock 5D 170N Hammer is currently winning out. Hydrostatic, built in harness, leg/crotch straps (required for pretty much all offshore racing now), webbing knife, whistle, strobe light on a pylon, spray hood, and into the deal, many retailers are throwing in a Spinlock tether. It's a few bucks more than the Mustang, but add in all the extra gear then it's actually a good deal. - Original Message - From: Dennis C. capt...@yahoo.com To: CnClist CnC-List@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:04:43 AM Subject: Stus-List Auto inflate PFD's Preparing for an upcoming 100 mile offshore race. Thinking about adding an auto inflating PFD with harness to supplement our manual PFDs. There's some new ones out. Definitely want a hydrostatic (pressure activated) system. Right now the Mustang hydrostatic with harness (MD3184) is top candidate considering price and how infrequently we need it. Any other recommendations? Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Auto inflate PFD's
spinlock. used them last year in newport - bermuda and they are great. whatever you get requires teh leg straps. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 1:05 PM To: CnClist Subject: Stus-List Auto inflate PFD's Preparing for an upcoming 100 mile offshore race. Thinking about adding an auto inflating PFD with harness to supplement our manual PFDs. There's some new ones out. Definitely want a hydrostatic (pressure activated) system. Right now the Mustang hydrostatic with harness (MD3184) is top candidate considering price and how infrequently we need it. Any other recommendations? Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds / protecting sails
best way to protect the sail is to take the d@mn thing off From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 1:30 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds / protecting sails I got tired of wrapping my turnbuckles each spring with rigging tape, so made a set of wrap-pins (see http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catal ogId=10001storeId=11151productId=312993langId=-1#.UZO2mkq63fA for commercially available ones. Makes the job of untensioning / re-tensioning the rig so easy and fast. All it took was a roll of double-sided velco, some cotter pins snipped to the right length, some whipping twine, and a few minutes to sew the pin to the velco. Jonathan Indigo - Southport CT From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:34 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds I need to put those plastic tubes over my turnbuckles and the stick is up. I'm pretty sure I can do this but need confirmation/guidance from the list. What's the safest way to go about this? My boat has one set of outer shrouds and one set of inner. I'll be putting the covers on the outer shroud turnbuckles only. Should I use a halyard as backup? I figure loosen tension on outer shrouds evenly. Put tension on halyard (fixed to toe rail) and release that side's shroud. Put cover on, loosely re-attach turnbuckle and do over again on the other side. Once done tension the shrouds properly. Is this right? I've got a brand new genoa and I'de like to protect it best I can. Thanks Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds / protecting sails
Wouldn't tacking be a bit slow if you take the sail off between tacks?? :-) _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 1:24 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds / protecting sails best way to protect the sail is to take the d@mn thing off _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 1:30 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds / protecting sails I got tired of wrapping my turnbuckles each spring with rigging tape, so made a set of wrap-pins (see http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId =10001 http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogI d=10001storeId=11151productId=312993langId=-1#.UZO2mkq63fA storeId=11151productId=312993langId=-1#.UZO2mkq63fA for commercially available ones. Makes the job of untensioning / re-tensioning the rig so easy and fast. All it took was a roll of double-sided velco, some cotter pins snipped to the right length, some whipping twine, and a few minutes to sew the pin to the velco. Jonathan Indigo - Southport CT _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:34 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Disconnecting Shrouds I need to put those plastic tubes over my turnbuckles and the stick is up. I'm pretty sure I can do this but need confirmation/guidance from the list. What's the safest way to go about this? My boat has one set of outer shrouds and one set of inner. I'll be putting the covers on the outer shroud turnbuckles only. Should I use a halyard as backup? I figure loosen tension on outer shrouds evenly. Put tension on halyard (fixed to toe rail) and release that side's shroud. Put cover on, loosely re-attach turnbuckle and do over again on the other side. Once done tension the shrouds properly. Is this right? I've got a brand new genoa and I'de like to protect it best I can. Thanks Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Boat Name - Font
Treat her to something nice - a diamond ring maybe (the girlfriend). She is a keeper. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G Street Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 4:39 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Name - Font Steven -- looks nice! So does your first mate; and she looks like a hard worker, too. A difficult combination to find in the sailing world -- keep her around! :^) Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On May 14, 2013, at 10:34 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: Thank you all for the input and replies! And a followup! Went with TIMES NEW ROMAN! lol Here is a time lapse video of the process: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hd1Byw98JRc Removing the old name was a bear of a job .. by day three we finally resorted to oven cleaner and wouldn't you know, it totally works! Cheers, Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Boat Name - Font
Diamond? I would go for self-tailers! Joel On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 2:16 PM, Neil Andersen neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com wrote: Treat her to something nice – a diamond ring maybe (the girlfriend). She is a keeper… ** ** *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Frederick G Street *Sent:* Tuesday, May 14, 2013 4:39 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Boat Name - Font ** ** Steven -- looks nice! So does your first mate; and she looks like a hard worker, too. A difficult combination to find in the sailing world -- keep her around! :^) Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V *Oceanis* (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(* *** ** ** On May 14, 2013, at 10:34 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: Thank you all for the input and replies! And a followup! ** ** Went with TIMES NEW ROMAN! lol ** ** Here is a time lapse video of the process: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hd1Byw98JRc ** ** Removing the old name was a bear of a job .. by day three we finally resorted to oven cleaner and wouldn't you know, it totally works! Cheers, ** ** Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ** ** ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Boat Name - Font
Heh .. already have the self-tailers. She is definitely a keeper and I am a really lucky SOB. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 2:29 PM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.comwrote: Diamond? I would go for self-tailers! Joel On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 2:16 PM, Neil Andersen neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com wrote: Treat her to something nice – a diamond ring maybe (the girlfriend). She is a keeper… ** ** *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Frederick G Street *Sent:* Tuesday, May 14, 2013 4:39 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Boat Name - Font ** ** Steven -- looks nice! So does your first mate; and she looks like a hard worker, too. A difficult combination to find in the sailing world -- keep her around! :^) Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V *Oceanis* (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( ** ** On May 14, 2013, at 10:34 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: Thank you all for the input and replies! And a followup! ** ** Went with TIMES NEW ROMAN! lol ** ** Here is a time lapse video of the process: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hd1Byw98JRc ** ** Removing the old name was a bear of a job .. by day three we finally resorted to oven cleaner and wouldn't you know, it totally works! Cheers, ** ** Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ** ** ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Starting a Universal
I have only had a few tries at starting the M430 engine on my new boat, and I have been told several different stories. One person said to hold the glow plug button for 5-10 seconds and then start. Another said 30 seconds on the glow plug and then leave the button pushed while also pushing the starter. The latter worked when I was first starting the engine after the winter while plugged into shore power. Yesterday I started it for the first time without shore power and found that the starter did not kick at all if I started while also holding the glow plug button. Started find when I let go the glow plug button. What is the "normal" starting procedure with a cold engine in cool weather. Warm weather? Warm engine? Thanks- Dave David KnechtAries1990 CC 34+New London, CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal
I have an M4-30.hold the glow plug 30-60 seconds then press the starter button while still holding the glow plug button depressed.I think that's what the manual says to do and that is what I do to start.in warmer weather I don't hold the glow plug quite as long but I don't think my M4-30 will start at all unless both buttons are depressed at the same time.maybe my panel is wired up differently than yours Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht Sent: May 15, 2013 4:52 PM To: CnC CnC discussion list Subject: Stus-List Starting a Universal I have only had a few tries at starting the M430 engine on my new boat, and I have been told several different stories. One person said to hold the glow plug button for 5-10 seconds and then start. Another said 30 seconds on the glow plug and then leave the button pushed while also pushing the starter. The latter worked when I was first starting the engine after the winter while plugged into shore power. Yesterday I started it for the first time without shore power and found that the starter did not kick at all if I started while also holding the glow plug button. Started find when I let go the glow plug button. What is the normal starting procedure with a cold engine in cool weather. Warm weather? Warm engine? Thanks- Dave David Knecht Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT _ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5825 - Release Date: 05/15/13 image002.jpg___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Auto inflate PFD's
Love my Spinlock PFD. All-day and night-watch comfortable. Barely notice that I'm wearing it, no neck chafe, the contours fit my body and loaded with really smart features. A bit more spendy at first glance than others but IMO well worth it. Dave 1982 CC 37 - Ronin On May 15, 2013, at 12:16 PM, Paul Baker wrote: I'm in a similar situation, the Spinlock 5D 170N Hammer is currently winning out. Hydrostatic, built in harness, leg/crotch straps (required for pretty much all offshore racing now), webbing knife, whistle, strobe light on a pylon, spray hood, and into the deal, many retailers are throwing in a Spinlock tether. It's a few bucks more than the Mustang, but add in all the extra gear then it's actually a good deal. - Original Message - From: Dennis C. capt...@yahoo.com To: CnClist CnC-List@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:04:43 AM Subject: Stus-List Auto inflate PFD's Preparing for an upcoming 100 mile offshore race. Thinking about adding an auto inflating PFD with harness to supplement our manual PFDs. There's some new ones out. Definitely want a hydrostatic (pressure activated) system. Right now the Mustang hydrostatic with harness (MD3184) is top candidate considering price and how infrequently we need it. Any other recommendations? Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice?
0 ohms is short, not blown bulb OL or very high reading is open circuit, blown bulb, bad connection, etc. Leslie From: dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 8:40 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice? 12 V OFF, just test across the 2 wires leading to the light…disconnect them at the base of the mast, a reading of zero ohms suggests a blown bulb, bad connection for the bulb or broken wire (s). Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Abbott Sent: May 15, 2013 12:32 PM To: Dennis C. ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Electrical Advice? Dennis: Thank you for the step by step advice. I have the meter here now and it reads 0 ohms when I touch the red and black probes..my meter reads 1 . when not touching.not OL (out of limits) . I guess all meters are not the same. One more question.when I do this test, do I have the 12V switch for the mast head light ON or OFF at the electrical panel? I told you I was no electrician! Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax , NS On 2013/05/15 11:56 AM, Dennis C. wrote: Set your meter to read resistance (ohms) Touch the red and black probes together to test the meter. You should see 0 ohms when touching and OL (out of limits) when not touching Attach the common (black) probe to a ground wire (black or yellow) at the mast base junction Touch the meter's red probe to the positive wires at the junction Readings Out of limits - open circuit, i.e. burned out bulb or bulb not making good contact in socket Some ohm reading - resistance shows good bulb 0 ohms - shorted circuit Dennis C. From:Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:38 AM Subject: Stus-List Electrical Advice? After steeping the mast, I hooked up the various lights (running, bow, foredeck). Mast head light did not come onmy guess is a blown bulb or the bulb connection could be bad. I am no electrician but I do have a digital multimeter. Is there a 'test' with the multimeter that can suggest that it is a blown bulb or a bad bulb connection? A simple 'yes' answer will not suffice.step by step explanation would be helpful. I ask this because getting the the top of my mast is a 3 person taskone to up, one to grind and one to tail. If I know it is the bulb, I can plan for a fix accordingly. Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax , N.S. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5825 - Release Date: 05/15/13 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal
David,The preheat button does 2 things, activates the glow plugs and deactivates the audible alarms. The usual start procedure should be to press the preheat button for 30-60 seconds then press the start button while continuing to press the preheat button. In colder weather, you may have to hold the preheat a bit longer. With a warn engine, you should be able to press the preheat and start buttons simultaneously.I push the throttle forward SLIGHTLY when I start my Universal.The manual can be found at: http://www.westerbeke.com/OnlineManuals/200157_M12-M50_Operator_Man.pdfDennis C.From: David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com To: CnC CnC discussion list CnC-List@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 2:51 PM Subject: Stus-List Starting a Universal I have only had a few tries at starting the M430 engine on my new boat, and I have been told several different stories. One person said to hold the glow plug button for 5-10 seconds and then start. Another said 30 seconds on the glow plug and then leave the button pushed while also pushing the starter. The latter worked when I was first starting the engine after the winter while plugged into shore power. Yesterday I started it for the first time without shore power and found that the starter did not kick at all if I started while also holding the glow plug button. Started find when I let go the glow plug button. What is the "normal" starting procedure with a cold engine in cool weather. Warm weather? Warm engine? Thanks- Dave David KnechtAries1990 CC 34+New London, CT ___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle
Rick: My 1986 4 cyl Yanmar smokes a bit when first started. After about 5 mins of motoring at about ¾ throttle it smokes very little. An thoughts from your experience with these Yanmars? I have no idea of the hours as the hour meter was broken and showing 1100 hours when I bought the boat in 2007. This engine starts very easily and runs well. Fred Hazzard S/V Fury CC 44 Portland, Or From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 6:38 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle Russ is correct. With proper care, clean fuel, regular air cleaner changes, etc. 10.000 hours is attainable. In the forklift business, we routinely saw 16,000 or so hours out of the 4 cylinder Yanmars we used in the smaller trucks. Regarding the cost of an injector service, The last injector service on my previous engine (PO saved $300 on the exhaust installation, and cost me $8k for a replacement engine) was about $275 for four injectors. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ Melody Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 11:19 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle Hi Don, The black junk that plugs the mixing elbow can certainly be unburned carbon from a bad injector. A Yanmar that has only 1800 is a long way from the 5,000 hours you can get from an abused one these puppies. 10,000 hours is attainable with decent care. It probably just needs servicing, not replacing or a rebuild. My advice is get a guy to remove the injectors and bring them up to Nanaimo to have 'em serviced/rebuilt by Floyd at Action Fuel Injection. He is the best diesel fuel system dude on Vancouver Island. I think the latest guess is $100 - 150 per injector... but maybe phone Floyd for a chat. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 At 10:28 AM 14/05/2013, you wrote: Hi Kim Thanks for this. It is what I'm worried about. The boat has started to blow extra smoke on start and I'm thinking unburned diesel. It also blows smoke when you idle down for a bit and then rev up again. Once warmed up it seems fine. I've got a mechanic coming in a couple of weeks (they are backed up here in Victoria). What I worry about is the slippery slope on an old engine. It is 1981 with around 1800 hours and raw water cooled. It runs fairly nicely but. I also worry about the cost of a new engine which would not materially change the value of the boat - as people were saying earlier - boats cheap, parts expensive. How many boat units did getting the injectors cost if you don't mind sharing. Don -Original Message- From: Kim Brown [ mailto:kimcbr...@comcast.net mailto:kimcbr...@comcast.net ] Sent: May-13-13 2:50 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle Don Just went through this with my 3GMF30. Had Diesel Dan (really) out because we are headed to the Abacos next month. (anyone going to be there for Regatta Time?) I was suspicious of injectors- boat was running but xtra smoke on start, oily exhaust water. So better here than there. Had the injectors rebuilt and as part of the looksie he checked elbow and assorted other potential trouble spots. The knuckle was almost closed with gunk and was replaced. Never did overheat but that may be more because there is flow tapped off for my dripless allowing some flow to continue besides the meager amount still passing through the knuckle. The injector rebuild really worked wonders- thought it was running ok before but now smoke is minimal, pops right off, runs cooler and smoother. My guess is the gunk was unburnt fuel building up. Your mileage may vary but that is another path to explore. I had replaced the elbow about a year ago and the knuckle was fine then so it built up relatively quickly. And I haven't sucked an impeller lately (on my FWC the vanes hang up at the front end of the heat exchanger and are a PITA to extract). Kim Brown Trust Me 35-3 Message: 3 Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 10:44:51 -0700 From: Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle Message-ID: 003f01ce5001$9250c7c0$b6f25740$@ca Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hello all I have an elderly Yanmar 3GMD engine that is raw water cooled. It has plugged twice in the last two years where the water goes through a knuckle into the mixing elbow. The first time (summer before last) was some solid bit that had gotten stuck - how it got there I don't know. The last time (last week) was due to a tar like substance gumming up the knuckle. Easy to clear and I was on my way, but is this a harbinger of something more serious. I took the mixing elbow off a few years back and cleaned it, guess it is time to
Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal
My Universal M35B (a newer engine based on a Kubota diesel) calls for 20 seconds of preheat if below -5C (23F), 15 seconds if -5C to +5C (41F), and 10 seconds if above +5C. Press start while holding preheat. Continue to hold preheat after engine starts until oil pressure reaches 15PSI. Do not crank engine for more than 30 seconds. Here are the procedures for the M4-30 from the operator's Manual: 6. Place throttle lever at 1/3 open position. 7. Turn key to ON position to energize fuel pump, glow plug and oil pressure light. If your panel uses a key switch start, go tOh)9. 8. Press Glow Plug button for 30 to 60 seconds, depending on the outside temperature. Continue to hold glow plug button while pressing Start button to crank engine. Release both buttons immediately after engine starts. Go to 11. NOTE: YOU MUST HOLD GLOW PLUG BUTTON IN TO ENERGIZE THE STARTER BUTTON FOR CRANKING ENGINE. PANELS WITH KEY SWITCH START 9. Activate Glow Plug switch for 30 seconds to 1 minute, depending on the outside air temperature. It may be necessary to hold the glow plugs on during the time the engine is cranked in very cold outside temperatures. 10. Turn key to full right position to crank engine. Release key immediately after start. MAKE SURE THE KEY RETURNS TO THE ON POSITION. NOTE: When cranking engine, only crank engine for 10 seconds and pause for 10 seconds. Repeat until engine starts. (See Caution printed on Starter Motor.) You can download a PDF copy of the manual at http://www.westerbeke.com/OnlineManuals/200157_M12-M50_Operator_Man.pdf . You said your engine will not crank with preheat button depressed. That does not seem right. Suggest you look at the troubleshooting pages from the Universal M4-30 Technical Manual at http://www.westerbeke.com/OnlineManuals/200155_Rev2_M12-M35_Technical_Man.pd f . Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 3:52 PM To: CnC CnC discussion list Subject: Stus-List Starting a Universal I have only had a few tries at starting the M430 engine on my new boat, and I have been told several different stories. One person said to hold the glow plug button for 5-10 seconds and then start. Another said 30 seconds on the glow plug and then leave the button pushed while also pushing the starter. The latter worked when I was first starting the engine after the winter while plugged into shore power. Yesterday I started it for the first time without shore power and found that the starter did not kick at all if I started while also holding the glow plug button. Started find when I let go the glow plug button. What is the normal starting procedure with a cold engine in cool weather. Warm weather? Warm engine? Thanks- Dave David Knecht Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT image001.png___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal
Now you have me concerned about my setup. Is it possible that the inability to start with both pressed on battery alone indicates a battery problem? I had my switch set to BOTH when I did this and it cranked heartily so it did not seem like a weak battery. Dave On May 15, 2013, at 5:40 PM, Dennis C. capt...@yahoo.com wrote: David, The preheat button does 2 things, activates the glow plugs and deactivates the audible alarms. The usual start procedure should be to press the preheat button for 30-60 seconds then press the start button while continuing to press the preheat button. In colder weather, you may have to hold the preheat a bit longer. With a warn engine, you should be able to press the preheat and start buttons simultaneously. I push the throttle forward SLIGHTLY when I start my Universal. The manual can be found at: http://www.westerbeke.com/OnlineManuals/200157_M12-M50_Operator_Man.pdf Dennis C. From: David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com To: CnC CnC discussion list CnC-List@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 2:51 PM Subject: Stus-List Starting a Universal I have only had a few tries at starting the M430 engine on my new boat, and I have been told several different stories. One person said to hold the glow plug button for 5-10 seconds and then start. Another said 30 seconds on the glow plug and then leave the button pushed while also pushing the starter. The latter worked when I was first starting the engine after the winter while plugged into shore power. Yesterday I started it for the first time without shore power and found that the starter did not kick at all if I started while also holding the glow plug button. Started find when I let go the glow plug button. What is the normal starting procedure with a cold engine in cool weather. Warm weather? Warm engine? Thanks- Dave David Knecht Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com David Knecht, Ph.D. Professor and Head of Microscopy Facility Department of Molecular and Cell Biology U-3125 91 N. Eagleville Rd. University of Connecticut Storrs, CT 06269 860-486-2200 860-486-4331 (fax) ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle
Fred, the older Yanmars have a reciprocating dingle valve to control the exhaust temperature in the fluval chamber. As you have already noticed, once the engine warms up, the dingle valve opens and lets the hot engine exhaust pass through the fluval chamber removing any excess unburned fuel. The newer engines have replaced the dingle valve with a resonating bundle arm so they don’t smoke even when just started. Hope this helps...T From: Fred Hazzard Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 2:54 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle Rick: My 1986 4 cyl Yanmar smokes a bit when first started. After about 5 mins of motoring at about ¾ throttle it smokes very little. An thoughts from your experience with these Yanmars? I have no idea of the hours as the hour meter was broken and showing 1100 hours when I bought the boat in 2007. This engine starts very easily and runs well. Fred Hazzard S/V Fury CC 44 Portland, Or From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 6:38 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle Russ is correct. With proper care, clean fuel, regular air cleaner changes, etc. 10.000 hours is attainable. In the forklift business, we routinely saw 16,000 or so hours out of the 4 cylinder Yanmars we used in the smaller trucks. Regarding the cost of an injector service, The last injector service on my previous engine (PO saved $300 on the exhaust installation, and cost me $8k for a replacement engine) was about $275 for four injectors. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ Melody Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 11:19 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle Hi Don, The black junk that plugs the mixing elbow can certainly be unburned carbon from a bad injector. A Yanmar that has only 1800 is a long way from the 5,000 hours you can get from an abused one these puppies. 10,000 hours is attainable with decent care. It probably just needs servicing, not replacing or a rebuild. My advice is get a guy to remove the injectors and bring them up to Nanaimo to have 'em serviced/rebuilt by Floyd at Action Fuel Injection. He is the best diesel fuel system dude on Vancouver Island. I think the latest guess is $100 - 150 per injector... but maybe phone Floyd for a chat. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 At 10:28 AM 14/05/2013, you wrote: Hi Kim Thanks for this. It is what I'm worried about. The boat has started to blow extra smoke on start and I'm thinking unburned diesel. It also blows smoke when you idle down for a bit and then rev up again. Once warmed up it seems fine. I've got a mechanic coming in a couple of weeks (they are backed up here in Victoria). What I worry about is the slippery slope on an old engine. It is 1981 with around 1800 hours and raw water cooled. It runs fairly nicely but. I also worry about the cost of a new engine which would not materially change the value of the boat - as people were saying earlier - boats cheap, parts expensive. How many boat units did getting the injectors cost if you don't mind sharing. Don -Original Message- From: Kim Brown [mailto:kimcbr...@comcast.net] Sent: May-13-13 2:50 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle Don Just went through this with my 3GMF30. Had Diesel Dan (really) out because we are headed to the Abacos next month. (anyone going to be there for Regatta Time?) I was suspicious of injectors- boat was running but xtra smoke on start, oily exhaust water. So better here than there. Had the injectors rebuilt and as part of the looksie he checked elbow and assorted other potential trouble spots. The knuckle was almost closed with gunk and was replaced. Never did overheat but that may be more because there is flow tapped off for my dripless allowing some flow to continue besides the meager amount still passing through the knuckle. The injector rebuild really worked wonders- thought it was running ok before but now smoke is minimal, pops right off, runs cooler and smoother. My guess is the gunk was unburnt fuel building up. Your mileage may vary but that is another path to explore. I had replaced the elbow about a year ago and the knuckle was fine then so it built up relatively quickly. And I haven't sucked an impeller lately (on my FWC the vanes hang up at the front end of the heat exchanger and are a PITA to extract). Kim Brown Trust Me 35-3 Message: 3 Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 10:44:51 -0700 From: Don Jonsson dbjons...@shaw.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle Message-ID: 003f01ce5001$9250c7c0$b6f25740$@ca Content-Type:
Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice?
Leslie Yes you are correct Leslie, I must have been asleep and I hope Bob found his problem despite my incorrect advice Sorry Bob Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Leslie Paal Sent: May 15, 2013 6:08 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice? 0 ohms is short, not blown bulb OL or very high reading is open circuit, blown bulb, bad connection, etc. Leslie _ From: dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 8:40 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice? 12 V OFF, just test across the 2 wires leading to the light.disconnect them at the base of the mast, a reading of zero ohms suggests a blown bulb, bad connection for the bulb or broken wire (s). Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Abbott Sent: May 15, 2013 12:32 PM To: Dennis C. ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Electrical Advice? Dennis: Thank you for the step by step advice. I have the meter here now and it reads 0 ohms when I touch the red and black probes..my meter reads 1 . when not touching.not OL (out of limits) . I guess all meters are not the same. One more question.when I do this test, do I have the 12V switch for the mast head light ON or OFF at the electrical panel? I told you I was no electrician! Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax , NS On 2013/05/15 11:56 AM, Dennis C. wrote: Set your meter to read resistance (ohms) Touch the red and black probes together to test the meter. You should see 0 ohms when touching and OL (out of limits) when not touching Attach the common (black) probe to a ground wire (black or yellow) at the mast base junction Touch the meter's red probe to the positive wires at the junction Readings Out of limits - open circuit, i.e. burned out bulb or bulb not making good contact in socket Some ohm reading - resistance shows good bulb 0 ohms - shorted circuit Dennis C. _ From: Robert Abbott mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca robertabb...@eastlink.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:38 AM Subject: Stus-List Electrical Advice? After steeping the mast, I hooked up the various lights (running, bow, foredeck).Mast head light did not come onmy guess is a blown bulb or the bulb connection could be bad. I am no electrician but I do have a digital multimeter. Is there a 'test' with the multimeter that can suggest that it is a blown bulb or a bad bulb connection? A simple 'yes' answer will not suffice.step by step explanation would be helpful. I ask this because getting the the top of my mast is a 3 person taskone to up, one to grind and one to tail. If I know it is the bulb, I can plan for a fix accordingly. Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax , N.S. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com _ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com http://www.avg.com/ Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5825 - Release Date: 05/15/13 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com _ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3162/5825 - Release Date: 05/15/13 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Auto inflate PFD's
I have 2 Mustangs and 1 Spinlock. Mustangs are in the closet, Spinlock is worn. I bought it for the spray hood, and have to admit haven't had good opportunity to use it...hope I never will, but it was great in the pool with people splashing water at me. --- Cheers, Jeff Nelson Muir Caileag CC 30 Armdale Y.C. Halifax On 15/05/2013 6:02 PM, Dave Godwin wrote: Love my Spinlock PFD. All-day and night-watch comfortable. Barely notice that I'm wearing it, no neck chafe, the contours fit my body and loaded with really smart features. A bit more spendy at first glance than others but IMO well worth it. Dave 1982 CC 37 - Ronin On May 15, 2013, at 12:16 PM, Paul Baker wrote: I'm in a similar situation, the Spinlock 5D 170N Hammer is currently winning out. Hydrostatic, built in harness, leg/crotch straps (required for pretty much all offshore racing now), webbing knife, whistle, strobe light on a pylon, spray hood, and into the deal, many retailers are throwing in a Spinlock tether. It's a few bucks more than the Mustang, but add in all the extra gear then it's actually a good deal. - Original Message - From: Dennis C. capt...@yahoo.com To: CnClist CnC-List@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:04:43 AM Subject: Stus-List Auto inflate PFD's Preparing for an upcoming 100 mile offshore race. Thinking about adding an auto inflating PFD with harness to supplement our manual PFDs. There's some new ones out. Definitely want a hydrostatic (pressure activated) system. Right now the Mustang hydrostatic with harness (MD3184) is top candidate considering price and how infrequently we need it. Any other recommendations? Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Boat_Sig Cheers, Jeff Nelson Muir Caileag CC 30 Armdale Y.C. Halifax ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle
Lets see: 27 year old engine, used 4 or 5 months a year so call it 100 engine hours, Call ir 3000 hours on the engine. And given the age it is probably raw water cooled. Question 1 is white smoke or black smoke? Black smoke would be soot/unburned fuel. Could be a cold cylinder head (lets see, Lake Superior gets up to something like 45F in August, right?), an incorrect or misfunctioning thermostat that is letting too much bypass water flow and prolonging warmup time, or pump or injectors starting to wear and overfueling the engine. In that case the black smoke would tend to go away after the engine gets to operating temp and combustion is more complete. Depending on the engine hours, if the rings are getting worn you could have reduced compression, which would cause some incomplete combustion after the glow plugs are turned off until the engine block and head come up to normal temperature. White smoke is coolant. A possible case would be an early sign of head gasket failure. A very small amount of cooling water getting past the head gasket will flash into steam (white smoke) and as the block and head expand with heat, the gasket will seal and water will stop. Is there a chance that the engine has 4 or 5,000 hours on it? If so, it might be prudent to retorque the head bolts to ensure a tight seal of the head gasket. With a more pronounced head gasket leak, especially with a FWC engine, pressurized hot water will seep into the cylinder after the engine is turned off and seep down into the oil pan. An early sign would be foam and gray sludge in the oil, in addition to a big puff of white smoke when the engine starts. Engine would still start, but would tend to run rough . On a FWC engine you would see antifreeze coming out of the overflow bottle as the engine runs, but on a RWC engine you would not notice much until the leak became bad enough to cause a water lock and an engine that would not crank. Not sure if any of that will help. But it may give you a place to start when troubleshooting. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 5:55 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle Rick: My 1986 4 cyl Yanmar smokes a bit when first started. After about 5 mins of motoring at about ¾ throttle it smokes very little. An thoughts from your experience with these Yanmars? I have no idea of the hours as the hour meter was broken and showing 1100 hours when I bought the boat in 2007. This engine starts very easily and runs well. Fred Hazzard S/V Fury CC 44 Portland, Or ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal
I always had trouble starting my Westerbeke when my batteries weren't fully charged. Alan Bergen CC 35 Mk III Thirsty Rose City YC Portland, OR ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal
I'm not fond of putting my battery switch on Both. I leave it on 1 or 2, never on Both. If one battery is bad, it will drag the other down. If one battery isn't hot enough to start your engine, you have a battery/electrical issue. Dennis C. From: David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com To: CnC CnC discussion list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 5:03 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal Now you have me concerned about my setup. Is it possible that the inability to start with both pressed on battery alone indicates a battery problem? I had my switch set to BOTH when I did this and it cranked heartily so it did not seem like a weak battery. Dave On May 15, 2013, at 5:40 PM, Dennis C. capt...@yahoo.com wrote: David, The preheat button does 2 things, activates the glow plugs and deactivates the audible alarms. The usual start procedure should be to press the preheat button for 30-60 seconds then press the start button while continuing to press the preheat button. In colder weather, you may have to hold the preheat a bit longer. With a warn engine, you should be able to press the preheat and start buttons simultaneously. I push the throttle forward SLIGHTLY when I start my Universal. The manual can be found at: http://www.westerbeke.com/OnlineManuals/200157_M12-M50_Operator_Man.pdf Dennis C. From: David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com To: CnC CnC discussion list CnC-List@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 2:51 PM Subject: Stus-List Starting a Universal I have only had a few tries at starting the M430 engine on my new boat, and I have been told several different stories. One person said to hold the glow plug button for 5-10 seconds and then start. Another said 30 seconds on the glow plug and then leave the button pushed while also pushing the starter. The latter worked when I was first starting the engine after the winter while plugged into shore power. Yesterday I started it for the first time without shore power and found that the starter did not kick at all if I started while also holding the glow plug button. Started find when I let go the glow plug button. What is the normal starting procedure with a cold engine in cool weather. Warm weather? Warm engine? Thanks- Dave David Knecht Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com David Knecht, Ph.D. Professor and Head of Microscopy Facility Department of Molecular and Cell Biology U-3125 91 N. Eagleville Rd. University of Connecticut Storrs, CT 06269 860-486-2200 860-486-4331 (fax) ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal
For a new M3-20B, the Universal Operator's Manual gives a table that says hold the preheat switch for approx 10 sec if temperature is 41F/5C or higher, 15 sec if temperature is 41F-23F/5C- -5C, and 20 sec if temp below 23F/-5C. With Universal-supplied panels the preheat switch has to be pressed for the starter button to work, and it (the preheat button) has to be held down until oil pressure builds up, other wise the engine will stop. This was also the same info given in the operators manual for an older 20B-2, which I think was about your engine's vintage, though some engines did not have the oil pressure switch feature. Neil Gallagher 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 5/15/2013 3:51 PM, David Knecht wrote: I have only had a few tries at starting the M430 engine on my new boat, and I have been told several different stories. One person said to hold the glow plug button for 5-10 seconds and then start. Another said 30 seconds on the glow plug and then leave the button pushed while also pushing the starter. The latter worked when I was first starting the engine after the winter while plugged into shore power. Yesterday I started it for the first time without shore power and found that the starter did not kick at all if I started while also holding the glow plug button. Started find when I let go the glow plug button. What is the normal starting procedure with a cold engine in cool weather. Warm weather? Warm engine? Thanks- Dave David Knecht Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal
Hi David, I see you've gotten good advice already. Our boat has that engine, the M4-30 and Glowplugs are a good thing. They help start a cold engine. I've heard stories of Yanmar owners using a hair dryer on an engine to get it to start. I usually hold the glowplug button for 30 seconds or more, the first time before trying the start button separately. I don't think you can overheat the engine, but it uses battery power. I make sure the shifter is in neutral and set the throttle part way open. There is a glow plug, for each of four cylinders. If one plug is cold, it will make starting a little more difficult. You can verify all the glow plugs work by a simple check. When the engine is cold, hold the glow plug button for 30 to 45 seconds and then open the engine box and feel for a warm spot near each glowplug on the engine. If they all feel equally warm, they are perfect. If one is cold, you need to check electrical connection and maybe replace the glow plug. On our engine, there is an electric booster fuel pump. When you turn the key, the gages are powered and the fuel pump starts ticking. Listen for that sound before trying to start. This is also a good thing. We found when it stopped working, due to a green corroded ground connection, we could run the engine fine up to half speed. The engine has a return hose, and I think the pump may negate needing to bleed air from injectors. FYI, I had our starter rebuilt by a car starter rebuilder, $75 for new solenoid, bearings, brushes. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ - Original Message - From: Neil Gallagher njgallag...@optonline.net To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 10:09:26 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal For a new M3-20B, the Universal Operator's Manual gives a table that says hold the preheat switch for approx 10 sec if temperature is 41F/5C or higher, 15 sec if temperature is 41F-23F/5C- -5C, and 20 sec if temp below 23F/-5C. With Universal-supplied panels the preheat switch has to be pressed for the starter button to work, and it (the preheat button) has to be held down until oil pressure builds up, other wise the engine will stop. This was also the same info given in the operators manual for an older 20B-2, which I think was about your engine's vintage, though some engines did not have the oil pressure switch feature. Neil Gallagher 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 5/15/2013 3:51 PM, David Knecht wrote: I have only had a few tries at starting the M430 engine on my new boat, and I have been told several different stories. One person said to hold the glow plug button for 5-10 seconds and then start. Another said 30 seconds on the glow plug and then leave the button pushed while also pushing the starter. The latter worked when I was first starting the engine after the winter while plugged into shore power. Yesterday I started it for the first time without shore power and found that the starter did not kick at all if I started while also holding the glow plug button. Started find when I let go the glow plug button. What is the normal starting procedure with a cold engine in cool weather. Warm weather? Warm engine? Thanks- Dave David Knecht Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal
Someone on the list suggested that I use the formula 100-T(F) to get the number of seconds to hold the glow plug.I was having trouble in colder temps, like low 60s. Worked great.I like others suggested also open the throttle a little when starting.RonWild CheriCC 30STL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal
David,The glow plugs are only needed when the engine is cold. I hold that glow plug button for at least 30secs. Rule of Thumb: Take 100, subtract the water temp and hold it for those seconds, and you should be good for a first try. If the water is 40 F, hold the button for 60 seconds. If the water is 70, hold for 30 seconds. Count 1000 one, 1000 two and so on, or use a watch. Once the engine starts and has warmed up, we go sailing, shutdown the engine and later I restart the engine without needing glowplugs.ChuckResolute1990 CC 34RAtlantic City, NJFrom: "David Knecht" davidakne...@gmail.comTo: "CnC CnC discussion list" CnC-List@cnc-list.comSent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 3:51:50 PMSubject: Stus-List Starting a UniversalI have only had a few tries at starting the M430 engine on my new boat, and I have been told several different stories. One person said to hold the glow plug button for 5-10 seconds and then start. Another said 30 seconds on the glow plug and then leave the button pushed while also pushing the starter. The latter worked when I was first starting the engine after the winter while plugged into shore power. Yesterday I started it for the first time without shore power and found that the starter did not kick at all if I started while also holding the glow plug button. Started find when I let go the glow plug button. What is the "normal" starting procedure with a cold engine in cool weather. Warm weather? Warm engine? Thanks- Dave David KnechtAries1990 CC 34+New London, CT ___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
