Stus-List CC30 MK1 Holding
Anybody have the capacity of the holding tank on a CC30 MK1? My paper work I found shows a 22 gal tank. I think it may be 13 gal's? Any help ? Thanks in advance. Curtis. -- All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible. T. E. Lawrence . ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Gate valve removal
I used a sawzall to cut the gate valve off the body of the thru-hull and an angle grinder from under the boat to put x's in the thru-hull .. then I banged it out. I did manage to get one or two out simply by twisting them with the step wrench but it was hard, and hit and miss. After 30 plus years those things can be pretty stubborn. If your'e doing the job you may as well replace the thru-hulls too. Bronze doesn't last forever. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 5:16 PM, Frederick G Street f...@postaudio.netwrote: You may run into a thread incompatibility, depending on what you’re using to replace the old valves. Through-hulls and real seacocks use NPS threading (straight), while ball valves are generally going to have NPT (tapered) threads. You can’t safely mix the two. So if you’re attaching a valve directly to an existing through-hull you’ll need to check the threads on both to see what you’ve got. You’d be better off installing true seacocks if there’s enough thread to put in a decent backing plate. There’s a good explanation here: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Apr 22, 2014, at 3:56 PM, Joseph Bognar jbog...@sympatico.ca wrote: I am finally tackling a long overdue job. I am removing the original 1979 Gate valves from my boat and replacing them with ball valves. These are the ones connected to my cockpit drains . I am looking for and suggestions or ideas from others that have done this already. I am trying to save the through hull in this process also.Thanks in advance for any and all advice Joe Bognar 1979 CC 30 In Luff Again II Grimsby,On ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List In-hull transducer
has anybody mounted a in-hull transducer in the CC30mk1 ? I need to get this project behind me. I have a ST50 depth traducer already under the forward bilge cover. Were else could or would be a good spot for this mount? It needs solid class to shoot threw. I have to 5200 the mount with the right dead rise angle then fill it with glycerol and should be good for years. Please let me know your thoughts. thanks Curt. -- All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible. T. E. Lawrence . ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Gate valve removal
I heated the gate valve with a torch and used a pipe wrench to loosen them. It all came apart nicely. I removed the through hull also to re bed it and it's in great shape still Sent from Joe Bognar On Apr 24, 2014, at 8:21 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: I used a sawzall to cut the gate valve off the body of the thru-hull and an angle grinder from under the boat to put x's in the thru-hull .. then I banged it out. I did manage to get one or two out simply by twisting them with the step wrench but it was hard, and hit and miss. After 30 plus years those things can be pretty stubborn. If your'e doing the job you may as well replace the thru-hulls too. Bronze doesn't last forever. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 5:16 PM, Frederick G Street f...@postaudio.net wrote: You may run into a thread incompatibility, depending on what you’re using to replace the old valves. Through-hulls and real seacocks use NPS threading (straight), while ball valves are generally going to have NPT (tapered) threads. You can’t safely mix the two. So if you’re attaching a valve directly to an existing through-hull you’ll need to check the threads on both to see what you’ve got. You’d be better off installing true seacocks if there’s enough thread to put in a decent backing plate. There’s a good explanation here: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Apr 22, 2014, at 3:56 PM, Joseph Bognar jbog...@sympatico.ca wrote: I am finally tackling a long overdue job. I am removing the original 1979 Gate valves from my boat and replacing them with ball valves. These are the ones connected to my cockpit drains . I am looking for and suggestions or ideas from others that have done this already. I am trying to save the through hull in this process also.Thanks in advance for any and all advice Joe Bognar 1979 CC 30 In Luff Again II Grimsby,On ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC30 MK1 Holding
12-13 gals. Its small Nate Sarah Jean 1980 30-1 Siskiwit Bay Marina Lake Superior On Thu, Apr 24, 2014 at 6:36 AM, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote: Anybody have the capacity of the holding tank on a CC30 MK1? My paper work I found shows a 22 gal tank. I think it may be 13 gal's? Any help ? Thanks in advance. Curtis. -- All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible. T. E. Lawrence . ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List In-hull transducer
I have my thru-hulls in the cabinet under the forward dinette seat. As well as the connections for the mast instruments and lights. It is solid glass there. Gary 30-1 - Original Message - From: Curtis To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2014 8:58 AM Subject: Stus-List In-hull transducer has anybody mounted a in-hull transducer in the CC30mk1 ? I need to get this project behind me. I have a ST50 depth traducer already under the forward bilge cover. Were else could or would be a good spot for this mount? It needs solid class to shoot threw. I have to 5200 the mount with the right dead rise angle then fill it with glycerol and should be good for years. Please let me know your thoughts. thanks Curt. -- All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible. T. E. Lawrence . -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List (no subject)
Hello all, Just returned from the trip to look at a CC 35-2. I only saw two things that concerned me (I'm no expert of course and I'd have a thorough survey), and I'm writing too ask people's opinions on these two issues. First, at the keel to hull joint, directly under the mast, there was water weeping through the joint onto both sides of the keel. Also, if not mistaken, I believe that the forward keel bolt, which is under the mast and can't be seen unless the mast is removed, is in this location on a vertical plane. Is this weeping at the hull/keel joint a serious concern? (i.e. is it enough not to waste money on a survey?) Is it likely that there is water running from the bilge or through the mast, past the keel bolt under the mast (hence a potentially comprised/rusty keel bolt under the mast?) and coming out through the joint? 1) the owner has had the boat shrink wrapped and on the hard for the last three years, and told me that winds this winter have blown the shrink wrap off the boat, and this spring is the first time the weeping has occurred. 2) The entire hull keel joint looked to me to be very good or excellent, no smile visible, and the bottom looked pretty smooth with a near perfect coat of fresh bottom paint. Second, the washer on the center (lowest in the bilge?) keel bolt was extremely rusty. The other visible keel bolts and washers looked very good. I don't remember if the center keel bolt itself was rusty. Also, the gelcoat surface of the bottom of the keel was spider cracked pretty thoroughly, I thought at the time that this was superficial and cosmetic. Are the rusty keel bolt washer and the spider cracked surface of the bilge potential areas of concern? Thank you in advance for any guidance here. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List (no subject)
My keel bolts all had steel backing plates that were rusting to pieces. I replaced them with stainless steel. Not a hard job out of the water if you have a B-A-S (big..socket) Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of andrew rothweiler Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2014 1:35 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List (no subject) Hello all, Just returned from the trip to look at a CC 35-2. I only saw two things that concerned me (I'm no expert of course and I'd have a thorough survey), and I'm writing too ask people's opinions on these two issues. First, at the keel to hull joint, directly under the mast, there was water weeping through the joint onto both sides of the keel. Also, if not mistaken, I believe that the forward keel bolt, which is under the mast and can't be seen unless the mast is removed, is in this location on a vertical plane. Is this weeping at the hull/keel joint a serious concern? (i.e. is it enough not to waste money on a survey?) Is it likely that there is water running from the bilge or through the mast, past the keel bolt under the mast (hence a potentially comprised/rusty keel bolt under the mast?) and coming out through the joint? 1) the owner has had the boat shrink wrapped and on the hard for the last three years, and told me that winds this winter have blown the shrink wrap off the boat, and this spring is the first time the weeping has occurred. 2) The entire hull keel joint looked to me to be very good or excellent, no smile visible, and the bottom looked pretty smooth with a near perfect coat of fresh bottom paint. Second, the washer on the center (lowest in the bilge?) keel bolt was extremely rusty. The other visible keel bolts and washers looked very good. I don't remember if the center keel bolt itself was rusty. Also, the gelcoat surface of the bottom of the keel was spider cracked pretty thoroughly, I thought at the time that this was superficial and cosmetic. Are the rusty keel bolt washer and the spider cracked surface of the bilge potential areas of concern? Thank you in advance for any guidance here. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List (no subject)
Andrew I replaced all the washers on the keel bolts on Alianna with 3/8 stainless plate. The keel bolts may need to be torqued, including the one under the mast. Before torquing the bolts, depending on how serious the leak is, (like is the bilge filled with water now or if it were full then how bad would the leak be) you may be able to grind into the joint on either side back aft as far as you have to and force some compound into the joint after you clean it out. I did that on my 35 MKII and I filled the cavity I created at the joint with 3M 5200. That will prevent leaking from the outside into the boat after launch and when you torque the keel bolts and replace the washers with something more substantial or use at least 2 washers per bolt you can also put compound (4200 0r 5200) around the bolts where they come up through the hull I used a lot so that it squished out all around as I torqued the nuts. That was 8 years ago and no problems. Torque Specs are on the cnc site. You will need a ¾ in drive and some large (I think 11/4 and 11/2) deep sockets and about a 1-2 foot long extension on the drive and a force multiplier on the socket handle I used a 4 foot long section of steel pipe dont jerk the socket, just steady pull and when you use the pipe extension you only have enough room for one click on the ratchet at a time I would expect the keel bolts to be fine and the nuts too I would definitely try that before doing a total removal and re-bedding of the keel On the outside, after the 5200 cures a bit you can fair with car body filler or you can epoxy over the entire joint with glass reinforced epoxy and then fair. _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of andrew rothweiler Sent: April 24, 2014 2:35 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List (no subject) Hello all, Just returned from the trip to look at a CC 35-2. I only saw two things that concerned me (I'm no expert of course and I'd have a thorough survey), and I'm writing too ask people's opinions on these two issues. First, at the keel to hull joint, directly under the mast, there was water weeping through the joint onto both sides of the keel. Also, if not mistaken, I believe that the forward keel bolt, which is under the mast and can't be seen unless the mast is removed, is in this location on a vertical plane. Is this weeping at the hull/keel joint a serious concern? (i.e. is it enough not to waste money on a survey?) Is it likely that there is water running from the bilge or through the mast, past the keel bolt under the mast (hence a potentially comprised/rusty keel bolt under the mast?) and coming out through the joint? 1) the owner has had the boat shrink wrapped and on the hard for the last three years, and told me that winds this winter have blown the shrink wrap off the boat, and this spring is the first time the weeping has occurred. 2) The entire hull keel joint looked to me to be very good or excellent, no smile visible, and the bottom looked pretty smooth with a near perfect coat of fresh bottom paint. Second, the washer on the center (lowest in the bilge?) keel bolt was extremely rusty. The other visible keel bolts and washers looked very good. I don't remember if the center keel bolt itself was rusty. Also, the gelcoat surface of the bottom of the keel was spider cracked pretty thoroughly, I thought at the time that this was superficial and cosmetic. Are the rusty keel bolt washer and the spider cracked surface of the bilge potential areas of concern? Thank you in advance for any guidance here. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Tacktick wireless interface and iRegatta
I installed a TackTick wireless wind sensor on the mast last year and a receiver at the helm station. I am considering adding an iPad with something like iRegatta at the helm station. It looks like I need something like this iSteer device: http://www.madmanmarine.com to get the NMEA to wireless. What do I need to go from the Tacktick to the iSteer? It looks like the T122 Raymarine Wireless interface may be designed for this, but is that the only option? That starts bringing the cost of the system up dramatically. I am concerned that all of this is an expensive toy that will be supplanted rapidly by better wireless boat systems. Thanks- Dave David Knecht Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tacktick wireless interface and iRegatta
Dave — the only way to get from Micronet/TackTick to wired NMEA0183 is the T122, as far as I know. And that’s what you’ll need to get to WiFi, via a box from the likes of iSteer, Digital Yacht or Comar. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Apr 24, 2014, at 3:08 PM, David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com wrote: I installed a TackTick wireless wind sensor on the mast last year and a receiver at the helm station. I am considering adding an iPad with something like iRegatta at the helm station. It looks like I need something like this iSteer device: http://www.madmanmarine.com to get the NMEA to wireless. What do I need to go from the Tacktick to the iSteer? It looks like the T122 Raymarine Wireless interface may be designed for this, but is that the only option? That starts bringing the cost of the system up dramatically. I am concerned that all of this is an expensive toy that will be supplanted rapidly by better wireless boat systems. Thanks- Dave David Knecht Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tacktick wireless interface and iRegatta
Thanks Fred- That extra $400 takes it from a not too expensive experiment to one I have to think about whether it is justified by the budget. Too bad. I can put the iPad at the helm station for navigation for very little cost, so I guess I will start with that. It seems like it should not be too long before the entire boat is wirelessly integrated with a standard router. Dave On Apr 24, 2014, at 4:55 PM, Frederick G Street f...@postaudio.net wrote: Dave — the only way to get from Micronet/TackTick to wired NMEA0183 is the T122, as far as I know. And that’s what you’ll need to get to WiFi, via a box from the likes of iSteer, Digital Yacht or Comar. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Apr 24, 2014, at 3:08 PM, David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com wrote: I installed a TackTick wireless wind sensor on the mast last year and a receiver at the helm station. I am considering adding an iPad with something like iRegatta at the helm station. It looks like I need something like this iSteer device: http://www.madmanmarine.com to get the NMEA to wireless. What do I need to go from the Tacktick to the iSteer? It looks like the T122 Raymarine Wireless interface may be designed for this, but is that the only option? That starts bringing the cost of the system up dramatically. I am concerned that all of this is an expensive toy that will be supplanted rapidly by better wireless boat systems. Thanks- Dave David Knecht Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com David Knecht, Ph.D. Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility Department of Molecular and Cell Biology U-3125 91 N. Eagleville Rd. University of Connecticut Storrs, CT 06269 860-486-2200 860-486-4331 (fax) ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List (no subject)
Hi Andrew, You should always expect water in the forward part of the bilge, it comes down the mast. All the openings and lines will feed water down. The forward part of my bilge was partitioned off with a separate pump, which I didn't know about, till it made a wicked racket at 4am of course. The pump doesn't get it all, so I vacuum it out occasionally. Clean it out and see if it's rain water or salt water. If you don't have a smile, than I wouldn't worry much about the keel. Sail the boat, Lee Simplicity 1974 35-II Seattle -- Lee Youngblood l...@1gigharbor.com (425) 444-9109 Your Shilshole Sailboat Broker Gig Harbor Yacht Sales | Seattle Office @ Dockside Solutions 7001 Seaview Avenue #160 Seattle, WA 98117 New Office Phone (206) 707-1778 GHYS website: http://www.1gigharbor.com/ ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tacktick wireless interface and iRegatta
Hi David, You have too much electronics already - see two copies of your email! I'd suggest you check with Doug Miller at http://www.milltechmarine.com He's quite plugged in, very helpful, and a CC guy too. Hope that helps, Lee I installed a TackTick wireless wind sensor on the mast last year and a receiver at the helm station. I am considering adding an iPad with something like iRegatta at the helm station. It looks like I need something like this iSteer device: http://www.madmanmarine.com to get the NMEA to wireless. What do I need to go from the Tacktick to the iSteer? It looks like the T122 Raymarine Wireless interface may be designed for this, but is that the only option? That starts bringing the cost of the system up dramatically. I am concerned that all of this is an expensive toy that will be supplanted rapidly by better wireless boat systems. Thanks- Dave David Knecht Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT I installed a TackTick wireless wind sensor on the mast last year and a receiver at the helm station. I am considering adding an iPad with something like iRegatta at the helm station. It looks like I need something like this iSteer device: http://www.madmanmarine.comhttp://www.madmanmarine.com to get the NMEA to wireless. What do I need to go from the Tacktick to the iSteer? It looks like the T122 Raymarine Wireless interface may be designed for this, but is that the only option? That starts bringing the cost of the system up dramatically. I am concerned that all of this is an expensive toy that will be supplanted rapidly by better wireless boat systems. Thanks- Dave David Knecht Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tacktick wireless interface and iRegatta
David, I have been thinking about the same thing. Try NavMonPC (http://www.navmonpc.com/). I run the Tack Tick NMEA out to my computer and into NavMonPC. There is an AP for Android tablets that will allow Windows computers to be controlled using the Android Tablet. Also, I think you could route the output of NavMonPC NMEA out to a wireless router and to any other computer/tablet on board. I’m sure that there are some IT types that can take it from here. Frank Noragon S/V Cool Change CC 38 LF, S/N 001 Rose City Yacht Club Portland, Oregon From: David Knecht Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2014 2:18 PM To: CnC CnC discussion list Subject: Re: Stus-List Tacktick wireless interface and iRegatta Thanks Fred- That extra $400 takes it from a not too expensive experiment to one I have to think about whether it is justified by the budget. Too bad. I can put the iPad at the helm station for navigation for very little cost, so I guess I will start with that. It seems like it should not be too long before the entire boat is wirelessly integrated with a standard router. Dave On Apr 24, 2014, at 4:55 PM, Frederick G Street f...@postaudio.net wrote: Dave — the only way to get from Micronet/TackTick to wired NMEA0183 is the T122, as far as I know. And that’s what you’ll need to get to WiFi, via a box from the likes of iSteer, Digital Yacht or Comar. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Apr 24, 2014, at 3:08 PM, David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com wrote: I installed a TackTick wireless wind sensor on the mast last year and a receiver at the helm station. I am considering adding an iPad with something like iRegatta at the helm station. It looks like I need something like this iSteer device: http://www.madmanmarine.com to get the NMEA to wireless. What do I need to go from the Tacktick to the iSteer? It looks like the T122 Raymarine Wireless interface may be designed for this, but is that the only option? That starts bringing the cost of the system up dramatically. I am concerned that all of this is an expensive toy that will be supplanted rapidly by better wireless boat systems. Thanks- Dave David Knecht Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com David Knecht, Ph.D. Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility Department of Molecular and Cell Biology U-3125 91 N. Eagleville Rd. University of Connecticut Storrs, CT 06269 860-486-2200 860-486-4331 (fax) ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
