Re: Stus-List Traveler components

2014-09-15 Thread Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
I would second the idea of talking to Guido about the repairs.

Or better yet, talking to him about replacing the traveller. Their new cars are 
supposedly really good.

Marek

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2014 10:15 PM
To: Burt Stratton ; CnClist 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler components

Burt,


You should have several options.  

You might consider talking to Guido or Mark at Garhauer Marine.  They may be 
able to make you a new and better car for a reasonable price.


I'm assuming there are sheaves on the ends of the car?  How much room is 
between the sheaves?  Enough to install a padeye with two fasteners?  That 
would hold up to the loads better than a single point attachment system.


Your description doesn't sound like a Harken car.  More like a Merriman or a 
Schaefer.


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA


On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 8:08 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Took my salvage project to Newport this weekend. Beautiful sail down on 
Saturday. Front rolled through Saturday night and tested my anchor and ground 
tackle at the anchorage near Ida Lewis Yacht club. All worked fine, thank you. 
Cozy first ever evening on the boat with the admiral. Very enjoyable 
considering the stark accommodations. Learned a few things about life aboard 
the new to us 33 footer. Only real issue was the traveler broke over-night. The 
broken component is a stainless steel eye bolt in the center of the car that is 
used to attach the mainsheet block. It goes through the car and is secured by a 
nut on the bottom. I am not sure this is original design or hardware. Can’t 
find a traveler car on the interwebs that looks anything like mine. I assumed 
it was Harken as everything else on the boat is. It is a very simple 4:1 
arrangement with 8 captive rollers that ride on the track. The hole that the 
eyebolt goes through looks like it was threaded once. I ended up using a 5/16 
stainless eye bolt that was a close enough fit but it is definitely a temporary 
solution. Does anyone have a source that might have the correct components or 
am I looking at a new traveler track, ends, blocks and car?



  1974 33 ¾ tonner

  Portsmouth, RI   



  bstrat...@falconnect.com




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Re: Stus-List Odile

2014-09-15 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Wal,

Glad you are safe!

Joel

On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 9:43 PM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Sounds like a wise decision!

 Rich

  On Sep 14, 2014, at 21:20, Wally Bryant via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
  Am I glad I decided not to do the Sea of Cortez this summer!
 
  
 http://www.weather.com/news/update/hurricane-odile-mexico-baja-california-impacts-20140914
 
 
  Wal
 
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Re: Stus-List Odile

2014-09-15 Thread Danny Haughey via CnC-List
Hey Wal,I'm just curious.  Why did you decide not to go there? Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca, cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Odile
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2014 08:32:41 -0400


Wal, Glad you are safe! Joel
On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 9:43 PM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Sounds like a wise decision!
 
 Rich

  On Sep 14, 2014, at 21:20, Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  wrote:
 
  Am I glad I decided not to do the Sea of Cortez this summer!
 
  http://www.weather.com/news/update/hurricane-odile-mexico-baja-california-impacts-20140914
 
  Wal
 
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 -- 
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Re: Stus-List Odile

2014-09-15 Thread Wally Bryant via CnC-List
Yup.  I've been waking up every few hours to check www.eebmike.com 
just because I know a lot of people in La Paz.  While the eye 
disintegrated after hitting Cabo straight on, the center of the thing 
shifted east and is now directly over La Paz, down to a Cat 2.


Sheesh, I was all provisioned up and spent weeks waiting for a three day 
sailing window to head north and spend the summer there again, but this 
summer it was all northerlies or dead calm in June so I said heck with 
it and stayed over here.  (I didn't want a three day motorboat ride.)  
Now I'm grateful.


That's the seventh storm to hit Cat 4 or greater this season. Sheesh.

Wal



you wrote:

Wal,

Glad you are safe!

Joel



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Re: Stus-List Traveler components

2014-09-15 Thread Paul Fountain via CnC-List
Have a garhauer traveller ... Works great!

Paul. :)


On Sep 15, 2014, at 8:18 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I would second the idea of talking to Guido about the repairs.

Or better yet, talking to him about replacing the traveller. Their new cars are 
supposedly really good.

Marek

From: Dennis C. via CnC-Listmailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2014 10:15 PM
To: Burt Strattonmailto:bstrat...@falconnect.com ; 
CnClistmailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler components

Burt,

You should have several options.

You might consider talking to Guido or Mark at Garhauer Marine.  They may be 
able to make you a new and better car for a reasonable price.

I'm assuming there are sheaves on the ends of the car?  How much room is 
between the sheaves?  Enough to install a padeye with two fasteners?  That 
would hold up to the loads better than a single point attachment system.

Your description doesn't sound like a Harken car.  More like a Merriman or a 
Schaefer.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 8:08 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Took my salvage project to Newport this weekend. Beautiful sail down on 
Saturday. Front rolled through Saturday night and tested my anchor and ground 
tackle at the anchorage near Ida Lewis Yacht club. All worked fine, thank you. 
Cozy first ever evening on the boat with the admiral. Very enjoyable 
considering the stark accommodations. Learned a few things about life aboard 
the new to us 33 footer. Only real issue was the traveler broke over-night. The 
broken component is a stainless steel eye bolt in the center of the car that is 
used to attach the mainsheet block. It goes through the car and is secured by a 
nut on the bottom. I am not sure this is original design or hardware. Can't 
find a traveler car on the interwebs that looks anything like mine. I assumed 
it was Harken as everything else on the boat is. It is a very simple 4:1 
arrangement with 8 captive rollers that ride on the track. The hole that the 
eyebolt goes through looks like it was threaded once. I ended up using a 5/16 
stainless eye bolt that was a close enough fit but it is definitely a temporary 
solution. Does anyone have a source that might have the correct components or 
am I looking at a new traveler track, ends, blocks and car?

1974 33 (3/4) tonner
Portsmouth, RI

bstrat...@falconnect.commailto:bstrat...@falconnect.com


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Re: Stus-List Traveler components

2014-09-15 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Burt,

Take a picture of it and email it to Harken, or if the boat show is today,
walk over to their booth.  They had parts for my 1983 traveler.
A Garhaurer traveler and car might be cheaper than a Harken repair.

Joel

On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 9:08 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Took my salvage project to Newport this weekend. Beautiful sail down on
 Saturday. Front rolled through Saturday night and tested my anchor and
 ground tackle at the anchorage near Ida Lewis Yacht club. All worked fine,
 thank you. Cozy first ever evening on the boat with the admiral. Very
 enjoyable considering the stark accommodations. Learned a few things about
 life aboard the new to us 33 footer. Only real issue was the traveler broke
 over-night. The broken component is a stainless steel eye bolt in the
 center of the car that is used to attach the mainsheet block. It goes
 through the car and is secured by a nut on the bottom. I am not sure this
 is original design or hardware. Can’t find a traveler car on the interwebs
 that looks anything like mine. I assumed it was Harken as everything else
 on the boat is. It is a very simple 4:1 arrangement with 8 captive rollers
 that ride on the track. The hole that the eyebolt goes through looks like
 it was threaded once. I ended up using a 5/16 stainless eye bolt that was a
 close enough fit but it is definitely a temporary solution. Does anyone
 have a source that might have the correct components or am I looking at a
 new traveler track, ends, blocks and car?



 1974 33 ¾ tonner

 Portsmouth, RI



 bstrat...@falconnect.com



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-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Replacement fuel sender for Landfall 38

2014-09-15 Thread PME via CnC-List
Hi,

Does anyone recognize the fuel sender in the photo at the link below?   This is 
the sender which was in the fuel tank on my 38LF.  I don't think it is the 
original as it appears the tank has previously been replaced.   I have the fuel 
tank at home all cleaned out and nicely painted(no smiley yet).  I don't have a 
decent photo of the fuel gauge(it may be original), and I am hoping on 
purchasing a new sender before going down to the boat.   I am thinking about 
replacing the old unit with a Moeller reed switch (MOE 03576510 15in tank 
depth) which comes calibrated to 33-240 Ohms(is this a standard?).   I tried 
measuring the resistance of the old unit but it is toast.  

Any input on the type of old sender or on the reliability of the new reed 
switch sender is greatly welcomed.


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/99269361/old-sender.jpg


-
Paul E.
1981 CC Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




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Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 troubleshooting

2014-09-15 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Danny,

FWIW, here is a really primitive, but effective, way to test the ignition
system.  Get a plant spray bottle, fill with water, with engine running in
low light, spray mist around the plug and coil wires.  Look for arcing.

Sounds like a fuel issue to me.

Joel

On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Ok so, I've just run the engine fir nearly 2 hours to see if I could get
 it to cut out.  It ran perfectly and now I have fully charged batteries!
  Lol.

 The coil is hot but not too hot to touch.  I can touch it for a few
 seconds but then it stays to hurt a bit.  My guess is about 180 degrees
 based on my years working on boilers.

 Now, it was not under any load but I didn't think that would matter much
 if it were the coil that caused the slow stall.  If it is the gas tank I
 guess maybe, not bouncing in waves keeps anything that might be settled at
 the bottom, settled at the bottom and riding through any 2 or 3 foot seas
 stirred things up...

 Now, the gas tank is pretty low.  I really don't want to pull it now as I
 don't want to lose any potential sailing days that are left.

 I have to say, I've only been using the engine to get in and out of
 mooring fields and she has worked perfectly.  Starts easily, runs smooth,
 idles low...  I should be happy...

 I'm still a little perplexed.  But, can I rule out the ignition based on
 today's 2 hour test?


 From my Android phone

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301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Replacement fuel sender for Landfall 38

2014-09-15 Thread Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
33-240 ohms is a USA standard for engine gauges. Oil pressure, temperature, 
fuel level, etc. will all use 33-240 ohm senders.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
CC 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of PME via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2014 9:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Replacement fuel sender for Landfall 38

Hi,

Does anyone recognize the fuel sender in the photo at the link below?   This is 
the sender which was in the fuel tank on my 38LF.  I don't think it is the 
original as it appears the tank has previously been replaced.   I have the fuel 
tank at home all cleaned out and nicely painted(no smiley yet).  I don't have a 
decent photo of the fuel gauge(it may be original), and I am hoping on 
purchasing a new sender before going down to the boat.   I am thinking about 
replacing the old unit with a Moeller reed switch (MOE 03576510 15in tank 
depth) which comes calibrated to 33-240 Ohms(is this a standard?).   I tried 
measuring the resistance of the old unit but it is toast.

Any input on the type of old sender or on the reliability of the new reed 
switch sender is greatly welcomed.


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/99269361/old-sender.jpg


-
Paul E.
1981 CC Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




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Re: Stus-List Replacement fuel sender for Landfall 38

2014-09-15 Thread Don Wagner via CnC-List
I replaced a similar unit like your old unit with the Moeller reed switch style 
on my CC 41 ( 1986 model), and am very happy with. I am particularly pleased 
with the lack of moving parts, immersed in the fuel, and the sealed reed switch 
design. No need to calibrate, if the  tank is reasonably rectangular, if you 
know the depth, and  Moeller has a depth unit to match.

As I recall, the screw holes for the Moeller also matched the pattern for the 
old model.

Don Wagner
CC 41 CB
Der Baron 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2014 11:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacement fuel sender for Landfall 38

33-240 ohms is a USA standard for engine gauges. Oil pressure, temperature, 
fuel level, etc. will all use 33-240 ohm senders.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

CC 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of PME via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2014 9:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Replacement fuel sender for Landfall 38

 

Hi,

 

Does anyone recognize the fuel sender in the photo at the link below?   This is 
the sender which was in the fuel tank on my 38LF.  I don't think it is the 
original as it appears the tank has previously been replaced.   I have the fuel 
tank at home all cleaned out and nicely painted(no smiley yet).  I don't have a 
decent photo of the fuel gauge(it may be original), and I am hoping on 
purchasing a new sender before going down to the boat.   I am thinking about 
replacing the old unit with a Moeller reed switch (MOE 03576510 15in tank 
depth) which comes calibrated to 33-240 Ohms(is this a standard?).   I tried 
measuring the resistance of the old unit but it is toast.  

 

Any input on the type of old sender or on the reliability of the new reed 
switch sender is greatly welcomed.

 

 

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/99269361/old-sender.jpg

 

 

-
Paul E.
1981 CC Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL





 

 




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Re: Stus-List In-Hull Depth Transducer

2014-09-15 Thread Jim Watts via CnC-List
If you buy the Lowrance, get any extended warranty available and have a
reliable backup. I'd pay the extra and go Raymarine. I personally wouldn't
touch Lowrance...I used to sell them.
Posted from the dock in Gorge Harbour. : )

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 14 September 2014 14:54, David Jacobs via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:

 Thank you Graham. That's a big help.

 Dave
 Saltaire
 CC 35 MK 3

 -Original Message-
 From: Graham Collins [mailto:cnclistforw...@hotmail.com]
 Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2014 12:00 PM
 To: David Jacobs; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List In-Hull Depth Transducer

 Hi Dave
 There are several areas of hull on the 35-3 that have no core, my
 speed/depth transducer is located adjacent to the thru-hull fitting for the
 head discharge and it is solid core there.
 Looking at the inside of the hull it should be clear where there is core
 and
 is no core, as there is a noticeable step in the surface at the boundaries.

 I've got a BG Triton set, it was easy to install and painless.  It talks
 to
 my Ray plotter, with N2K networking any system should play nice.

 Graham Collins
 Secret Plans
 CC 35-III #11

 On 2014-09-14 11:08 AM, David Jacobs via CnC-List wrote:
  I am purchasing a Lowrance chart plotter and depth sounder and like
  several others would really like to avoid another hole in the bottom.
  In-hull transducers will not work through a cored hull which my 35Mk3
  has. Is there solid hull at or near the boats centerline? Is anyone
  using an in-hull transducer in their core hulled CC?
 
  By the way, I would prefer Raymarine but the nearly $400 price
  difference (all through Defender) is significant. If anyone thinks the
  Raymarine is worth the extra money or has any comments about this
  choice please let me know.
 
  Thanks,
  Dave
  Saltaire
  CC 35 MK3
 
 
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Stus-List Rain inside mast?

2014-09-15 Thread Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List
I've been trying for months to figure out where all the fresh water in the 
bilge is coming from. I re fastened o rings  and washers for the single water 
tank and today while on board on the pouring rain, it sounded like a current of 
water coming down the inside of the mast. The mast step was filled with rain 
water and going into the bilge but there was no leak thru the mast collar. 
Where is the rain getting in?

Barbara H. Fellers


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Re: Stus-List Rain inside mast?

2014-09-15 Thread Joseph Bognar via CnC-List
Your halyard boxes are open and water will run in there 

Sent from Joe Bognar


 On Sep 15, 2014, at 8:42 PM, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I've been trying for months to figure out where all the fresh water in the 
 bilge is coming from. I re fastened o rings  and washers for the single water 
 tank and today while on board on the pouring rain, it sounded like a current 
 of water coming down the inside of the mast. The mast step was filled with 
 rain water and going into the bilge but there was no leak thru the mast 
 collar. Where is the rain getting in?
 
 Barbara H. Fellers
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Rain inside mast?

2014-09-15 Thread coltrek via CnC-List
The bane of every keel stepped sailors existence. All the holes in the mast 
where the halyards exit and enter. And of course, the water runs down the 
halyards and builds up as it enters the holes. 

Wild Bill

div Original message /divdivFrom: Barbara Hickson Fellers 
via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com /divdivDate:09/15/2014  8:42 PM  
(GMT-05:00) /divdivTo: Cc List cnc-list@cnc-list.com /divdivSubject: 
Stus-List Rain inside mast? /divdiv
/divI've been trying for months to figure out where all the fresh water in 
the bilge is coming from. I re fastened o rings  and washers for the single 
water tank and today while on board on the pouring rain, it sounded like a 
current of water coming down the inside of the mast. The mast step was filled 
with rain water and going into the bilge but there was no leak thru the mast 
collar. Where is the rain getting in?

Barbara H. Fellers


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Re: Stus-List Traveler components

2014-09-15 Thread kirk sneddon via CnC-List
Very happy with the quality and service from Garhauer. 

 

I also worked with Guido.  I replaced my traveler this spring. I sent them
my old track and they used it as a drill template, so installation was easy
with no new holes to drill. 

 

The Garhauer cars are low friction, and high quality. With the  increased
mechanical advantage and continuous line it was a major improvement for
modest sum.

 

Kirk Sneddon

CC 29 MK II

Flying Cloud

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul
Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2014 9:07 AM
To: Marek Dziedzic; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler components

 

Have a garhauer traveller ... Works great!

Paul. :) 

 


On Sep 15, 2014, at 8:18 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I would second the idea of talking to Guido about the repairs.

 

Or better yet, talking to him about replacing the traveller. Their new cars
are supposedly really good.

 

Marek

 

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  

Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2014 10:15 PM

To: Burt Stratton mailto:bstrat...@falconnect.com  ; CnClist
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  

Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler components

 

Burt,

You should have several options.  

You might consider talking to Guido or Mark at Garhauer Marine.  They may be
able to make you a new and better car for a reasonable price.

I'm assuming there are sheaves on the ends of the car?  How much room is
between the sheaves?  Enough to install a padeye with two fasteners?  That
would hold up to the loads better than a single point attachment system.

Your description doesn't sound like a Harken car.  More like a Merriman or a
Schaefer.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 8:08 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Took my salvage project to Newport this weekend. Beautiful sail down on
Saturday. Front rolled through Saturday night and tested my anchor and
ground tackle at the anchorage near Ida Lewis Yacht club. All worked fine,
thank you. Cozy first ever evening on the boat with the admiral. Very
enjoyable considering the stark accommodations. Learned a few things about
life aboard the new to us 33 footer. Only real issue was the traveler broke
over-night. The broken component is a stainless steel eye bolt in the center
of the car that is used to attach the mainsheet block. It goes through the
car and is secured by a nut on the bottom. I am not sure this is original
design or hardware. Can’t find a traveler car on the interwebs that looks
anything like mine. I assumed it was Harken as everything else on the boat
is. It is a very simple 4:1 arrangement with 8 captive rollers that ride on
the track. The hole that the eyebolt goes through looks like it was threaded
once. I ended up using a 5/16 stainless eye bolt that was a close enough fit
but it is definitely a temporary solution. Does anyone have a source that
might have the correct components or am I looking at a new traveler track,
ends, blocks and car?

 

1974 33 ¾ tonner

Portsmouth, RI   

 

bstrat...@falconnect.com

 


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  _  


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Re: Stus-List Rain inside mast?

2014-09-15 Thread Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List
Barbara.

Via the halyard exits. I have the issue with Honey's mast. Say hello to Chip 
for me

Jack Fitzgerald
Savannah, GA


 On Sep 15, 2014, at 20:42, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I've been trying for months to figure out where all the fresh water in the 
 bilge is coming from. I re fastened o rings  and washers for the single water 
 tank and today while on board on the pouring rain, it sounded like a current 
 of water coming down the inside of the mast. The mast step was filled with 
 rain water and going into the bilge but there was no leak thru the mast 
 collar. Where is the rain getting in?
 
 Barbara H. Fellers
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Rain inside mast?

2014-09-15 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List
Like the replies so far, lots of places for rain to get in and run to the
bilge via a keel stepped mast.  I don't worry about it but if it really
bothers you, seal the halyard exit plates where they meet the mast.  You
may have to drill out rivets and refasten them to do it properly.

Look at any cable entries, VHF, Anchor light, Windex light, etc.  Seal them
and put a drip loop on them.  That is, configure them so the cable runs
down then turns up into the opening in the mast.

You'll still have leaks from the masthead sheaves, axles, any halyard
entries, and from condensation.

If you work hard, you may be able to eliminate 70% of the rain.  You'll
never get it all.  In my opinion, not worth the effort.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Sep 15, 2014 at 7:42 PM, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I've been trying for months to figure out where all the fresh water in the
 bilge is coming from. I re fastened o rings  and washers for the single
 water tank and today while on board on the pouring rain, it sounded like a
 current of water coming down the inside of the mast. The mast step was
 filled with rain water and going into the bilge but there was no leak thru
 the mast collar. Where is the rain getting in?

 Barbara H. Fellers


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