Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 sole supports

2014-09-23 Thread Wally Bryant via CnC-List

Paul - I'm pretty sure the two short ones support the sole in the aft cabin.

The long ones are the main cabin.  You can see mine on this page:
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/instruments/gplane/index.htm

You can see the short ones on this page:
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/gtackle/winwire/index.htm 
Sorry if it doesn't display well.  The old HTML is obsolete and I need 
to go back and rework just about all the pages on my site.


Wal


you wrote:

  I have two short (~2' long) but otherwise identical to the other sole 
supports which were given to me in a box with other components.   I have tried 
to locate where these short supports go, but I cannot find the location where 
they belong.



--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Mast Crane Replacement ideas, Pictures and comments Requested

2014-09-23 Thread Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Why not pull the masts with the boat in the water?  Crane does not have to be 
as high nor does the lift

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of D Harben via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 8:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Mast Crane Replacement ideas,Pictures and comments Requested

 

Hi,

   While we are chatting about annual mast pulling our club Is looking at a 
replacement for our mast crane.  

 

We are looking for a design example/picture that is about 15' higher then most. 
We haul out boats out on a marine railing with our cradle on it. The masts are 
pulled on dry land while the boat is on the railway. 

 

Descriptions, observations and pictures are appreciated!

 

Don Harben

sailadventures at gmail

 

www.ncyc.ca

 

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Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

2014-09-23 Thread Curtis via CnC-List
Good morning,
I'm thinking of a winter project to replace the cabin side windows with
something stronger and nice. Has anybody undergone this project that could
share their process and maybe some photos ? Do I just cut them out with a
razor knife and take them to a lexan shop and have them duplicate them in a
lighter color?  Is there a framed in type? I have been stopping leaks in
them windows sense I got the boat?

I also want to rebuild the forward hatch and need something strong and that
lets in more light. I need to know if the gasket around the inside is
replaceable? Mine is cracking up and needs to be replaced. all-tho  the
leaking looks to be the caulking of the class itself to the frame.

If you can share some in-depth details on how the two mentioned projects
are to be completed I would be very thankful.
I am very good at DIY projects and could do this project without imput. It
is so much nicer hearing from people that have done it.

Thanks



*Best regards,*


*Curtis*


*CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*


*Port Royal,*


*South Carolina*

*cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


* __/) *

.
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Re: Stus-List Wife doesn't like it when the boat leans ( sort of )

2014-09-23 Thread Allen White via CnC-List
Since we had an amazing trip up the River on Saturday running with the wind
for 4 hours, a great dinner, party at another club, walk the town and a
great breakfast, why beat into 14knts on the nose trying to make our way
back down the narrow river home? We'll just motor through the narrows, drop
the hook for lunch and then sail the rest of the way !  About 2 hours into
the trip, she says   Why do I smell exhaust? Probably a wind eddy as we
are passing 30 feet from a highway bridge abutment. Not believing myself,
and noticing a change in the exhaust note, I pulled the companion way steps
to have a look. Smoke, steam and water spraying all over the place. In a
surprisingly calm voice, she asks  Do we have a fire ?  No, just a broken
exhaust. What will we do ?  We are after all a sailboat, we'll sail !
Raised the sails, and beat the rest of the trip in short tacks home, where
several friendly members at our club were at the slip to help us in. First
time I sailed into the slip. Nice smooth landing, all well. 
Now the point of the post: Yanmar SB 8 single.   Is the exhaust just black
pipe wrapped with fiberglass tape ?  It appears to be nothing more. I don't
know what may have been done to her before I got her, but it looks like a
bushing, 3 inch nipple, 90, 3 inch nipple, 90, 1 1/2 inch nipple, y adapter
for water outlet from top of engine, copper male to sweat fitting that is
clamped into exhaust hose to muffler. May be slightly different as it was
kind of dark last night while I was in there. Also any wisdom on getting the
old pipe out of the top of the engine ?

Thanks,
Allen 
Windfall  '78 CC 26
Poughkeepsie Yacht Club
Hudson River  - Hyde Park, NY


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Re: Stus-List Wife doesn't like it when the boat leans ( sort of )

2014-09-23 Thread Gary Nylander via CnC-List
I think you are right. Black pipe wrapped. There may have been an 
(expensive) Yanmar mixing elbow in the mix originally, but you should have a 
flange bolted to the exhaust manifold (I am speaking about my 2 cyl Yanmar) 
which has threads for the pipe and is removed with four bolts. I have gone 
through two broken 'mixing elbows' over the last 20 years. The rest is 
available from a home improvement store. The 'elbow' has to be welded.


The fiberglass/asbestos(?) tape is available from Moyer Marine, the Atomic 4 
specialists.


Gary
30-1
- Original Message - 
From: Allen White via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:31 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wife doesn't like it when the boat leans ( sort of )


Since we had an amazing trip up the River on Saturday running with the 
wind

for 4 hours, a great dinner, party at another club, walk the town and a
great breakfast, why beat into 14knts on the nose trying to make our way
back down the narrow river home? We'll just motor through the narrows, 
drop

the hook for lunch and then sail the rest of the way !  About 2 hours into
the trip, she says   Why do I smell exhaust? Probably a wind eddy as we
are passing 30 feet from a highway bridge abutment. Not believing myself,
and noticing a change in the exhaust note, I pulled the companion way 
steps

to have a look. Smoke, steam and water spraying all over the place. In a
surprisingly calm voice, she asks  Do we have a fire ?  No, just a 
broken

exhaust. What will we do ?  We are after all a sailboat, we'll sail !
Raised the sails, and beat the rest of the trip in short tacks home, where
several friendly members at our club were at the slip to help us in. First
time I sailed into the slip. Nice smooth landing, all well.
Now the point of the post: Yanmar SB 8 single.   Is the exhaust just black
pipe wrapped with fiberglass tape ?  It appears to be nothing more. I 
don't

know what may have been done to her before I got her, but it looks like a
bushing, 3 inch nipple, 90, 3 inch nipple, 90, 1 1/2 inch nipple, y 
adapter

for water outlet from top of engine, copper male to sweat fitting that is
clamped into exhaust hose to muffler. May be slightly different as it was
kind of dark last night while I was in there. Also any wisdom on getting 
the

old pipe out of the top of the engine ?

Thanks,
Allen
Windfall  '78 CC 26
Poughkeepsie Yacht Club
Hudson River  - Hyde Park, NY


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Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

2014-09-23 Thread Gary Nylander via CnC-List
Curtis, be very careful when taking the old ones out. They are glued in with 
some powerful stuff and you stand a good chance of chipping the gelcoat around 
the windows (don't ask me how I know). You may want to try a dremel or one of 
those vibrating side cutters (Fein tool?).

Then you have to clean up the area where the adhesive was - it was probably 
laid on pretty thick and is another dremel job - again - care.

Some folks use a special adhesive called Plexus, which is a two part glue and 
needs a special gun for application. The windows are bonded into the side of 
the cabin and are part of the structure. You have to hold them in place (they 
are slightly bent to match the curve of your cabin). Or you can use Sikaflex 
295, which requires a cleaner, a primer (mandatory!!!) and the adhesive. Don't 
get creative and try anything else, there are probably 100 war stories about 
folks who have experimented and then got the opportunity to do it right the 
next year.

Search through the archives on the site - most of the late '70's and later 
original CC's had glued in windows and there are a lot of threads on this 
repair. It is doable but not trivial. Jake had a pretty good description if I 
remember correctly.

Gary Nylander
(Been there with moderate success)

  - Original Message - 
  From: Curtis via CnC-List 
  To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:21 AM
  Subject: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements


  Good morning,
  I'm thinking of a winter project to replace the cabin side windows with 
something stronger and nice. Has anybody undergone this project that could 
share their process and maybe some photos ? Do I just cut them out with a razor 
knife and take them to a lexan shop and have them duplicate them in a lighter 
color?  Is there a framed in type? I have been stopping leaks in them windows 
sense I got the boat? 


  I also want to rebuild the forward hatch and need something strong and that 
lets in more light. I need to know if the gasket around the inside is 
replaceable? Mine is cracking up and needs to be replaced. all-tho  the leaking 
looks to be the caulking of the class itself to the frame.


  If you can share some in-depth details on how the two mentioned projects are 
to be completed I would be very thankful. 
  I am very good at DIY projects and could do this project without imput. It is 
so much nicer hearing from people that have done it.


  Thanks  




  Best regards,

  Curtis


  CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady


  Port Royal,


  South Carolina



  cpt.b...@gmail.com



   __/) 

  . 






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Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

2014-09-23 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
The hatch is the easier job.  Yes, the gasket is replaceable.  There are a
couple sizes ranging from 3/8 to 5/8.  Some of us have used
weatherstripping, some have bought foam from McMaster/Carr.  The lense is
3/8 or 1/2 inch plexi.  I decided to buy the plexi and a router rather than
pay to have it cut to size and shape for the same total price.  I used Dow
795 (which can also be used for the windows despite Gary's admonition, but
we have beat that dead horse enough times).
Gary is right about chipping the gelcoat.

Be sure to tape all of the areas inside and out where adhesive might ooze!
Makes cleanup a lot easier.  Also, where rubber gloves.

Joel

On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 8:54 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Curtis, be very careful when taking the old ones out. They are glued in
 with some powerful stuff and you stand a good chance of chipping the
 gelcoat around the windows (don't ask me how I know). You may want to try a
 dremel or one of those vibrating side cutters (Fein tool?).

 Then you have to clean up the area where the adhesive was - it was
 probably laid on pretty thick and is another dremel job - again - care.

 Some folks use a special adhesive called Plexus, which is a two part glue
 and needs a special gun for application. The windows are bonded into the
 side of the cabin and are part of the structure. You have to hold them in
 place (they are slightly bent to match the curve of your cabin). Or you can
 use Sikaflex 295, which requires a cleaner, a primer (mandatory!!!) and the
 adhesive. Don't get creative and try anything else, there are probably 100
 war stories about folks who have experimented and then got the opportunity
 to do it right the next year.

 Search through the archives on the site - most of the late '70's and later
 original CC's had glued in windows and there are a lot of threads on this
 repair. It is doable but not trivial. Jake had a pretty good description if
 I remember correctly.

 Gary Nylander
 (Been there with moderate success)


 - Original Message -
 *From:* Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *To:* CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:21 AM
 *Subject:* Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

  Good morning,
 I'm thinking of a winter project to replace the cabin side windows with
 something stronger and nice. Has anybody undergone this project that could
 share their process and maybe some photos ? Do I just cut them out with a
 razor knife and take them to a lexan shop and have them duplicate them in a
 lighter color?  Is there a framed in type? I have been stopping leaks in
 them windows sense I got the boat?

 I also want to rebuild the forward hatch and need something strong and
 that lets in more light. I need to know if the gasket around the inside is
 replaceable? Mine is cracking up and needs to be replaced. all-tho  the
 leaking looks to be the caulking of the class itself to the frame.

 If you can share some in-depth details on how the two mentioned projects
 are to be completed I would be very thankful.
 I am very good at DIY projects and could do this project without imput. It
 is so much nicer hearing from people that have done it.

 Thanks




 *Best regards,*


 *Curtis*


 *CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*


 *Port Royal,*


 *South Carolina*

  *cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


 * __/) *

 .



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-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

2014-09-23 Thread Curtis via CnC-List
Thanks, Joel.

On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 9:04 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 The hatch is the easier job.  Yes, the gasket is replaceable.  There are a
 couple sizes ranging from 3/8 to 5/8.  Some of us have used
 weatherstripping, some have bought foam from McMaster/Carr.  The lense is
 3/8 or 1/2 inch plexi.  I decided to buy the plexi and a router rather than
 pay to have it cut to size and shape for the same total price.  I used Dow
 795 (which can also be used for the windows despite Gary's admonition, but
 we have beat that dead horse enough times).
 Gary is right about chipping the gelcoat.

 Be sure to tape all of the areas inside and out where adhesive might
 ooze!  Makes cleanup a lot easier.  Also, where rubber gloves.

 Joel

 On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 8:54 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Curtis, be very careful when taking the old ones out. They are glued in
 with some powerful stuff and you stand a good chance of chipping the
 gelcoat around the windows (don't ask me how I know). You may want to try a
 dremel or one of those vibrating side cutters (Fein tool?).

 Then you have to clean up the area where the adhesive was - it was
 probably laid on pretty thick and is another dremel job - again - care.

 Some folks use a special adhesive called Plexus, which is a two part glue
 and needs a special gun for application. The windows are bonded into the
 side of the cabin and are part of the structure. You have to hold them in
 place (they are slightly bent to match the curve of your cabin). Or you can
 use Sikaflex 295, which requires a cleaner, a primer (mandatory!!!) and the
 adhesive. Don't get creative and try anything else, there are probably 100
 war stories about folks who have experimented and then got the opportunity
 to do it right the next year.

 Search through the archives on the site - most of the late '70's and
 later original CC's had glued in windows and there are a lot of threads on
 this repair. It is doable but not trivial. Jake had a pretty good
 description if I remember correctly.

 Gary Nylander
 (Been there with moderate success)


 - Original Message -
 *From:* Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *To:* CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:21 AM
 *Subject:* Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

  Good morning,
 I'm thinking of a winter project to replace the cabin side windows with
 something stronger and nice. Has anybody undergone this project that could
 share their process and maybe some photos ? Do I just cut them out with a
 razor knife and take them to a lexan shop and have them duplicate them in a
 lighter color?  Is there a framed in type? I have been stopping leaks in
 them windows sense I got the boat?

 I also want to rebuild the forward hatch and need something strong and
 that lets in more light. I need to know if the gasket around the inside is
 replaceable? Mine is cracking up and needs to be replaced. all-tho  the
 leaking looks to be the caulking of the class itself to the frame.

 If you can share some in-depth details on how the two mentioned projects
 are to be completed I would be very thankful.
 I am very good at DIY projects and could do this project without imput.
 It is so much nicer hearing from people that have done it.

 Thanks




 *Best regards,*


 *Curtis*


 *CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*


 *Port Royal,*


 *South Carolina*

  *cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


 * __/) *

 .



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 --
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 301 541 8551

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-- 

*Best regards,*


*Curtis McDaniel, *


*CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*


*Port Royal,*


*South Carolina*

*cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


* __/) *

.
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Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

2014-09-23 Thread Ron Ricci via CnC-List
I usually leave my mast in the boat.  It does need to be pulled every few years 
to properly inspect the rigging.  My boat does fine on the jack stands here in 
Bristol, RI.  However, a couple of years ago, during a near-miss hurricane a 
very large boat with a ~70’ mast and in-mast furling blew over.  It rolled into 
another boat.  Fortunately a wide fishing boat stopped the domino effect.  

 

One thing that I do is to remove the halyards and topping lift.  I replace them 
with messenger lines and wash them.  My rigger told me this would effectively 
double the useful life of the lines.

 

The only issue I’ve had leaving the mast in the boat is water coming down the 
mast.  A rag in the luff track, above the shrink wrap, stops much of it.  I 
also put anti-freeze in the bilge.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

CC 37+

Bristol, RI

 mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: Hoyt, Mike [mailto:mike.h...@impgroup.com] 
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 3:32 PM
To: Joel Aronson; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

 

This is a long time debate.  Which damages boat / mast more?  Removal and 
reinstall of mast and potential mishaps or leaving it up?  I know that one 
season on our J27 we left the mast up.  That Spring while working on the boat 
the entire cradle would vibrate every time a gust of wind hit.  I attribute 
this to a very slender and bendy spar as much as anything.

 

The big issue these days seems to be leaving a spar up with a boat on jack 
stands.  The extra windage of the mast further compromises the integrity of 
jack stands.  One local club (Dartmouth Yacht Club) will not permit a mast to 
be left up on the hard unless the boat is stored on a cradle.  Another way to 
look at it is if you wish to use jack stands the mast must come down.

 

I realize that many boat yards in the Northeast US only allow jackstands.  I 
believe this is due to yard space and not due to a jackstand being more secure 
than a cradle.  

 

So here we are back to the very old mast up vs mast down question.  At the very 
least mast down does give you a good opportunity to inspect the standing 
rigging and the mast

 

Mike

 

From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 4:17 PM
To: Ron Casciato;  mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

 

Same in Annapolis. Masts stay in the boat unless they are being worked on.

 

Joel

 

On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 3:13 PM, Ron Casciato via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

In the boatyards around Boston.almost no masts are removed for
winter storage..most are stored with mast up and seem to do
well

In the past 14 years, I've only taken mine down for revisions or repairs to
wind instruments..probably 3 times in that 14 year interval

It will be staying up again this year.  Yes, relieve the tension on shrouds
and backstay a little not flopping around

Ron C.
Impromptu
CC 38MKIIC.'77


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 2:03 PM
To: Dr. Mark Bodnar; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

Mast up with a boat on jack stands is not a good idea.  Many clubs
around here do not permit it

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr.
Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 2:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?


All the discussion about unstepping the mast has me wondering about the
merits of leaving it in or pulling it out for the winter.
In the owners manual for the CS 30 is states
 CS Yachts does not recommend that the yacht be stored with the mast
 left in place as this places stresses on the hull and rig not
 encountered during normal operation. Any damage  to  the  yacht,  its

 cradle  or  any  associated  part will not  be  covered  under
 warranty if the boat has been stored with the rig in place.

I pulled the mast on my Mirage 24 - but we were able to do that by hand.
Our club has a crane and a gin pole(?) that could be used to pull the
mast --- but given all the bigger boats seem to leave the mast in place
I wonder if I'm better leaving it as it is. Loosen up the shrouds a
little and maybe pull our the halyards (leaving messenger lines).
I know when I bought the boat it hadn't been off the jack stands for 3
yrs - and the mast was up the whole time (shrouds not loosened and 3 of
the 4 halyards just pulled up to the mast head --- rescued by the launch
crew for me)

Having just bought this boat I wonder if hauling the mast might be a
good idea so I can get a good look at the mast head, sheaves etc. That
said 

Stus-List 2014 Northeast Rendezvous

2014-09-23 Thread Robert Gallagher via CnC-List
Fellow CC'ers.

Amazing, we pulled off three in a row!  Mystic, Block Island, Newport, all
fantastic locations and next year we head west into central Long Island
Sound.

For those of you New Englanders who didn't make it, I encourage you to get
there next year.  Bring your boat, it's worth the trip.  I think for all of
us who sail in, it is becoming one of the high lights of the season and a
final cruise as we wind down into fall sailing.

Charley, you did a great job keeping us fed and watered, although most
never did touch the bottled water.  We had more than enough grub and grog
to keep everyone happy for two evenings!  For the weekend of Sept. 19,
you were the hardest working man in show biz.

Andrew, sorry we missed you and thanks for all your hard work getting the
ball rolling.

Dave, got things organized on the dock, handled the behind the scenes
aggravation and proved. yet again, to be an excellent dancer (this time we
have us on video and you probably don't even remember).

CC Yachts/US Watercraft really came through for us, I mean what could be
better than getting two brand new CC Yachts, a fascinating guest speaker,
and picking up our tab for the dockside food and drink?  I'm so impressed
I'm almost starting to like the new logo!

Special thanks to the CC Crew that brought the boats over and took people
out sailing.

Mohegan Sun, thanks for the tchotchkes.

Good Old Boat Magazine, thanks for the latest issues.

Sailing Magazine, thanks for stopping by, we look forward to the photos.

Thanks to Stu for keeping up the website and email list.

For everyone who made it by land or sea, without YOU there would be no
Rendezvous.  That is what makes it all possible.

I encourage all of you to take a moment of your time and shoot a quick
thank you email to:
ka...@goodoldboat.com

toak...@mohegansun.com
https://mail.mohegansun.com/owa/redir.aspx?C=xqxh98ZvNE-VN4cEowqXaZPMiycMqtEIqNeQAoqimSgLXeO3LIdYA_I8APkixfDDYdE_fgBrAcs.URL=mailto%3atoakley%40mohegansun.com

sang...@uswatercraft.com

s...@pubmgroup.com

Thanks to anyone I missed, you know who you are!

Edd, stand by to energize...
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Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

2014-09-23 Thread Robert Boyer via CnC-List
If you go the Plexus route, you will be redoing the windows every several 
years--the flexing of the boat breaks the adhesive loose and then it leaks 
again.  If you plan to keep your boat for some time, you can make a permanent 
window upgrade like I did (with stainless steel frames) on my Landfall 38.  
Refer to my blogpost dated December 24, 2013...

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats.  --Kenneth Grahame___
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Re: Stus-List 2014 Northeast Rendezvous

2014-09-23 Thread Tim Goodyear via CnC-List
I'm very sorry I missed it this year - scotch and cigars were the final
straw.  Let me know if I can assist with organization for next year in
Central / Western LIS.  Congratulations on what sounds like a great event!

Tim
CC 35-3 Mojito
Branford, CT


On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 10:26 AM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Fellow CC'ers.

 Amazing, we pulled off three in a row!  Mystic, Block Island, Newport, all
 fantastic locations and next year we head west into central Long Island
 Sound.

 For those of you New Englanders who didn't make it, I encourage you to get
 there next year.  Bring your boat, it's worth the trip.  I think for all of
 us who sail in, it is becoming one of the high lights of the season and a
 final cruise as we wind down into fall sailing.

 Charley, you did a great job keeping us fed and watered, although most
 never did touch the bottled water.  We had more than enough grub and grog
 to keep everyone happy for two evenings!  For the weekend of Sept. 19,
 you were the hardest working man in show biz.

 Andrew, sorry we missed you and thanks for all your hard work getting the
 ball rolling.

 Dave, got things organized on the dock, handled the behind the scenes
 aggravation and proved. yet again, to be an excellent dancer (this time we
 have us on video and you probably don't even remember).

 CC Yachts/US Watercraft really came through for us, I mean what could be
 better than getting two brand new CC Yachts, a fascinating guest speaker,
 and picking up our tab for the dockside food and drink?  I'm so impressed
 I'm almost starting to like the new logo!

 Special thanks to the CC Crew that brought the boats over and took people
 out sailing.

 Mohegan Sun, thanks for the tchotchkes.

 Good Old Boat Magazine, thanks for the latest issues.

 Sailing Magazine, thanks for stopping by, we look forward to the photos.

 Thanks to Stu for keeping up the website and email list.

 For everyone who made it by land or sea, without YOU there would be no
 Rendezvous.  That is what makes it all possible.

 I encourage all of you to take a moment of your time and shoot a quick
 thank you email to:
 ka...@goodoldboat.com

 toak...@mohegansun.com
 https://mail.mohegansun.com/owa/redir.aspx?C=xqxh98ZvNE-VN4cEowqXaZPMiycMqtEIqNeQAoqimSgLXeO3LIdYA_I8APkixfDDYdE_fgBrAcs.URL=mailto%3atoakley%40mohegansun.com

 sang...@uswatercraft.com

 s...@pubmgroup.com

 Thanks to anyone I missed, you know who you are!

 Edd, stand by to energize...

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Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

2014-09-23 Thread Nate Flesness via CnC-List
A few years ago I lightly ran a cutting knife around the outside edge of
the 30-year glued windows, went inside and hit each one once, moderately,
with my fist. Every one popped right out. No gelcoat damage, but scarily
easy

Did the cast acrylic/plexus routine, was happy with nice new ports except
for the not so pretty glue line showing through #2404 bronze 3/8, but then
this year the large window started leaking again. Broken-hearted would
cover it.

One of several reasons we're currently closing on a boat with Lewmar ports.

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior


On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 7:54 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Curtis, be very careful when taking the old ones out. They are glued in
 with some powerful stuff and you stand a good chance of chipping the
 gelcoat around the windows (don't ask me how I know). You may want to try a
 dremel or one of those vibrating side cutters (Fein tool?).

 Then you have to clean up the area where the adhesive was - it was
 probably laid on pretty thick and is another dremel job - again - care.

 Some folks use a special adhesive called Plexus, which is a two part glue
 and needs a special gun for application. The windows are bonded into the
 side of the cabin and are part of the structure. You have to hold them in
 place (they are slightly bent to match the curve of your cabin). Or you can
 use Sikaflex 295, which requires a cleaner, a primer (mandatory!!!) and the
 adhesive. Don't get creative and try anything else, there are probably 100
 war stories about folks who have experimented and then got the opportunity
 to do it right the next year.

 Search through the archives on the site - most of the late '70's and later
 original CC's had glued in windows and there are a lot of threads on this
 repair. It is doable but not trivial. Jake had a pretty good description if
 I remember correctly.

 Gary Nylander
 (Been there with moderate success)


 - Original Message -
 *From:* Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *To:* CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:21 AM
 *Subject:* Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

  Good morning,
 I'm thinking of a winter project to replace the cabin side windows with
 something stronger and nice. Has anybody undergone this project that could
 share their process and maybe some photos ? Do I just cut them out with a
 razor knife and take them to a lexan shop and have them duplicate them in a
 lighter color?  Is there a framed in type? I have been stopping leaks in
 them windows sense I got the boat?

 I also want to rebuild the forward hatch and need something strong and
 that lets in more light. I need to know if the gasket around the inside is
 replaceable? Mine is cracking up and needs to be replaced. all-tho  the
 leaking looks to be the caulking of the class itself to the frame.

 If you can share some in-depth details on how the two mentioned projects
 are to be completed I would be very thankful.
 I am very good at DIY projects and could do this project without imput. It
 is so much nicer hearing from people that have done it.

 Thanks




 *Best regards,*


 *Curtis*


 *CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*


 *Port Royal,*


 *South Carolina*

  *cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


 * __/) *

 .



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Stus-List CC Northeast Rendezvous 2015

2014-09-23 Thread Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Listers,

With the paint barely dry on the 2014 Northeast Rendezvous, I’d like to 
start planning the 2015 event. 

As I’ve mentioned, with the 2012 event in Mystic, the 2013 event at 
Block Island and with the 2014 event in Newport, I think we need to move the 
group into LI Sound before we end up in Maine, Greenland or the UK. 

Please take a minute or two and fill out this survey: 
https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/9L7SD97

Personally, I think a place with slips and a wealth of amenities (rec 
area, pool, showers, restaurant) would be a preference, but if you have other 
thoughts, I’d like to hear them. 

I have a pretty good idea in my head on what I’d like the rendezvous to 
be, but, as I tell my race crew: I may not always be right, but I’m never in 
doubt. 

If you wish to volunteer to help, I will be happy to take you up on it. 
 

Finally, a big thank you to all those who have worked so hard to make 
the past three events such an amazing success. It’s such a great group of 
people and my only complaint is that we don’t get together more often.

Well, that, and where to store all these Mohegan Sun Cheese Boards…. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 sole supports

2014-09-23 Thread PME via CnC-List

Interesting, I am guessing that these orphaned supports could have been used in 
the small starboard pilot's birth which has been converted to a nav-station and 
additional lazarette space.

Thanks for the reply.


-
Paul E.
1981 CC Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




On Sep 22, 2014, at 8:37 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Message: 7
 Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2014 19:36:39 -0400
 From: Robert Boyer dainyr...@icloud.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Landfall 38 sole supports
 Message-ID: f15f6dfe-57d2-4a4b-a696-d6f7f1102...@icloud.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
 
 I don't think I have any sole supports that are as short as 2 foot long nor 
 are they black--mine are silver color...
 
 Bob Boyer
 S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
 email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
 blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
 
 There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
 messing about in boats.  --Kenneth Grahame
 -- next part --
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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38

2014-09-23 Thread Richard N. Bush via CnC-List

Paul, could you please email me off list; I am looking for info to rent a condo 
in your area around late February, thanks 
 

Richard
1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584;

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 
 
-Original Message-
From: PME via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tue, Sep 23, 2014 12:34 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 sole supports




Interesting, I am guessing that these orphaned supports could have been used in 
the small starboard pilot's birth which has been converted to a nav-station and 
additional lazarette space.


Thanks for the reply.





-
Paul E.
1981 CC Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL







On Sep 22, 2014, at 8:37 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:


Message: 7
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2014 19:36:39 -0400
From: Robert Boyer dainyr...@icloud.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Landfall 38 sole supports
Message-ID: f15f6dfe-57d2-4a4b-a696-d6f7f1102...@icloud.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I don't think I have any sole supports that are as short as 2 foot long nor are 
they black--mine are silver color...

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats.  --Kenneth Grahame
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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 sole supports

2014-09-23 Thread PME via CnC-List
Wally,

Yes, these must be them.   I thought I looked there, but I apparently did not 
notice any slots.   


Thanks. 


-
Paul E.
1981 CC Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




On Sep 23, 2014, at 9:56 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2014 11:00:46 +
 From: Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 sole supports
 Message-ID: 542152de.9080...@wbryant.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
 
 Paul - I'm pretty sure the two short ones support the sole in the aft cabin.
 
 The long ones are the main cabin.  You can see mine on this page:
 http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/instruments/gplane/index.htm
 
 You can see the short ones on this page:
 http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/gtackle/winwire/index.htm 
 Sorry if it doesn't display well.  The old HTML is obsolete and I need 
 to go back and rework just about all the pages on my site.
 
 Wal

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Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

2014-09-23 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List

  
  

  I've done a bunch of reading on this topic as my windows are
  cracked and need replacement.
  I don't have any experience actually doing it but I've read
  multiple different techniques -- so my comments should be taken
  with a grain (or bag) of salt! Nest year I may be able to speak
  from experience.
  
  I remember one discussion on the problem with adhesives was that
  the acrylic expands and contracts at different rates than the boat
  (or does not match boat flexing) and that most people put too thin
  a layer of adhesive - which could not absorb the movement.
  The recommended solution was to use double sided tape to keep the
  acrylic a couple millimeters off the gelcoat - then squeeze the
  adhesive caulk in around the edges for the water proofing. With
  more thickness there is more ability to absorb the different
  motions. 
  
  Mark
  
  
  

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  On 23/09/2014 12:42 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote:


  A few years ago I lightly ran a cutting knife
around the outside edge of the 30-year glued windows, went
inside and hit each one once, moderately, with my fist. Every
one popped right out. No gelcoat damage, but scarily easy


Did the cast acrylic/plexus routine, was happy with nice
  new ports except for the not so pretty glue line showing
  through #2404 bronze 3/8", but then this year the large window
  started leaking again. Broken-hearted would cover it.


One of several reasons we're currently closing on a boat
  with Lewmar ports.


Nate
"Sarah Jean"
  1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior


  
  
On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 7:54 AM, Gary
  Nylander via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  wrote:
  

  Curtis, be very careful when
  taking the old ones out. They are glued in with some
  powerful stuff and you stand a good chance of chipping
  the gelcoat around the windows (don't ask me how I
  know). You may want to try a dremel or one of those
  vibrating side cutters (Fein tool?).
  
  Then you have to clean up the area
  where the adhesive was - it was probably laid on
  pretty thick and is another dremel job - again - care.
  
  Some folks use a special adhesive
  called Plexus, which is a two part glue and needs a
  special gun for application. The windows are bonded
  into the side of the cabin and are part of the
  structure. You have to hold them in place (they are
  slightly bent to match the curve of your cabin). Or
  you can use Sikaflex 295, which requires a cleaner, a
  primer (mandatory!!!) and the adhesive. Don't get
  creative and try anything else, there are probably 100
  war stories about folks who have experimented and then
  got the opportunity to do it right the next year.
  
  Search through the archives on the
  site - most of the late '70's and later original
  CC's had glued in windows and there are a lot of
  threads on this repair. It is doable but not trivial.
  Jake had a pretty good description if I remember
  correctly.
  
  Gary Nylander
  (Been there with moderate success)
  
  

  
- Original Message
  - 
From:
  Curtis via CnC-List 
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday,
  September 23, 2014 8:21 AM
Subject:
  Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch
  replacements



  Good morning,
  I'm thinking of a winter project to replace
the cabin side windows with something stronger
and nice. Has anybody undergone this project
that could share their process and maybe some
photos ? Do I just cut them out with a razor
knife and take them to a lexan shop and have
them duplicate them in a lighter color? Is
there a framed in type? I have been stopping

Re: Stus-List Wife doesn't like it when the boat leans ( sort of )

2014-09-23 Thread Nate Flesness via CnC-List
I too found black pipe elbows and straights, wrapped with fiberglass and a
homemade style mixer elbow (copper pipe brazed into plumbing pipe).
When I finally noticed the Yanmar manual showed something very different,
and replaced the rusting mess with a (then)  ~$120 Yanmar elbow, and high
quality rubber radiator-style wire wound hose instead of big box plumbing
pipe parts, the small exhaust leaks disappeared, as did the soot in my
engine area,  and the engine became slightly quieter..

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Laje Superior

On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 7:44 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I think you are right. Black pipe wrapped. There may have been an
 (expensive) Yanmar mixing elbow in the mix originally, but you should have
 a flange bolted to the exhaust manifold (I am speaking about my 2 cyl
 Yanmar) which has threads for the pipe and is removed with four bolts. I
 have gone through two broken 'mixing elbows' over the last 20 years. The
 rest is available from a home improvement store. The 'elbow' has to be
 welded.

 The fiberglass/asbestos(?) tape is available from Moyer Marine, the Atomic
 4 specialists.

 Gary
 30-1
 - Original Message - From: Allen White via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:31 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Wife doesn't like it when the boat leans ( sort of )



  Since we had an amazing trip up the River on Saturday running with the
 wind
 for 4 hours, a great dinner, party at another club, walk the town and a
 great breakfast, why beat into 14knts on the nose trying to make our way
 back down the narrow river home? We'll just motor through the narrows,
 drop
 the hook for lunch and then sail the rest of the way !  About 2 hours into
 the trip, she says   Why do I smell exhaust? Probably a wind eddy as we
 are passing 30 feet from a highway bridge abutment. Not believing myself,
 and noticing a change in the exhaust note, I pulled the companion way
 steps
 to have a look. Smoke, steam and water spraying all over the place. In a
 surprisingly calm voice, she asks  Do we have a fire ?  No, just a
 broken
 exhaust. What will we do ?  We are after all a sailboat, we'll sail !
 Raised the sails, and beat the rest of the trip in short tacks home, where
 several friendly members at our club were at the slip to help us in. First
 time I sailed into the slip. Nice smooth landing, all well.
 Now the point of the post: Yanmar SB 8 single.   Is the exhaust just black
 pipe wrapped with fiberglass tape ?  It appears to be nothing more. I
 don't
 know what may have been done to her before I got her, but it looks like a
 bushing, 3 inch nipple, 90, 3 inch nipple, 90, 1 1/2 inch nipple, y
 adapter
 for water outlet from top of engine, copper male to sweat fitting that is
 clamped into exhaust hose to muffler. May be slightly different as it was
 kind of dark last night while I was in there. Also any wisdom on getting
 the
 old pipe out of the top of the engine ?

 Thanks,
 Allen
 Windfall  '78 CC 26
 Poughkeepsie Yacht Club
 Hudson River  - Hyde Park, NY


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Re: Stus-List 2014 Northeast Rendezvous

2014-09-23 Thread Richard N. Bush via CnC-List

Is there any video of the Rendevous?
 

Richard
1985 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 
 
-Original Message-
From: Robert Gallagher via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tue, Sep 23, 2014 2:16 pm
Subject: Stus-List 2014 Northeast Rendezvous


Fellow CC'ers.


Amazing, we pulled off three in a row!  Mystic, Block Island, Newport, all 
fantastic locations and next year we head west into central Long Island Sound.


For those of you New Englanders who didn't make it, I encourage you to get 
there next year.  Bring your boat, it's worth the trip.  I think for all of us 
who sail in, it is becoming one of the high lights of the season and a final 
cruise as we wind down into fall sailing.


Charley, you did a great job keeping us fed and watered, although most never 
did touch the bottled water.  We had more than enough grub and grog to keep 
everyone happy for two evenings!  For the weekend of Sept. 19, you were the 
hardest working man in show biz.


Andrew, sorry we missed you and thanks for all your hard work getting the ball 
rolling.


Dave, got things organized on the dock, handled the behind the scenes 
aggravation and proved. yet again, to be an excellent dancer (this time we have 
us on video and you probably don't even remember).


CC Yachts/US Watercraft really came through for us, I mean what could be 
better than getting two brand new CC Yachts, a fascinating guest speaker, and 
picking up our tab for the dockside food and drink?  I'm so impressed I'm 
almost starting to like the new logo!


Special thanks to the CC Crew that brought the boats over and took people out 
sailing.


Mohegan Sun, thanks for the tchotchkes.


Good Old Boat Magazine, thanks for the latest issues.


Sailing Magazine, thanks for stopping by, we look forward to the photos.


Thanks to Stu for keeping up the website and email list.


For everyone who made it by land or sea, without YOU there would be no 
Rendezvous.  That is what makes it all possible.


I encourage all of you to take a moment of your time and shoot a quick thank 
you email to: 

ka...@goodoldboat.com


toak...@mohegansun.com




sang...@uswatercraft.com



s...@pubmgroup.com



Thanks to anyone I missed, you know who you are!


Edd, stand by to energize...


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Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

2014-09-23 Thread Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Doesn't the 30 MK I have the same aluminum frame ports the 35 MK I has?
Those are pretty easy to DIY.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
CC 35 MK I


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark 
Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 1:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements


I've done a bunch of reading on this topic as my windows are cracked and need 
replacement.
I don't have any experience actually doing it but I've read multiple 
different techniques -- so my comments should be taken with a grain (or bag) of 
salt!  Nest year I may be able to speak from experience.

I remember one discussion on the problem with adhesives was that the acrylic 
expands and contracts at different rates than the boat (or does not match boat 
flexing) and that most people put too thin a layer of adhesive - which could 
not absorb the movement.
The recommended solution was to use double sided tape to keep the acrylic a 
couple millimeters off the gelcoat - then squeeze the adhesive caulk in around 
the edges for the water proofing.  With more thickness there is more ability to 
absorb the different motions.

Mark








There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.

  - George Santayana
On 23/09/2014 12:42 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote:
A few years ago I lightly ran a cutting knife around the outside edge of the 
30-year glued windows, went inside and hit each one once, moderately, with my 
fist. Every one popped right out. No gelcoat damage, but scarily easy

Did the cast acrylic/plexus routine, was happy with nice new ports except for 
the not so pretty glue line showing through #2404 bronze 3/8, but then this 
year the large window started leaking again. Broken-hearted would cover it.

One of several reasons we're currently closing on a boat with Lewmar ports.

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior


On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 7:54 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Curtis, be very careful when taking the old ones out. They are glued in with 
some powerful stuff and you stand a good chance of chipping the gelcoat around 
the windows (don't ask me how I know). You may want to try a dremel or one of 
those vibrating side cutters (Fein tool?).

Then you have to clean up the area where the adhesive was - it was probably 
laid on pretty thick and is another dremel job - again - care.

Some folks use a special adhesive called Plexus, which is a two part glue and 
needs a special gun for application. The windows are bonded into the side of 
the cabin and are part of the structure. You have to hold them in place (they 
are slightly bent to match the curve of your cabin). Or you can use Sikaflex 
295, which requires a cleaner, a primer (mandatory!!!) and the adhesive. Don't 
get creative and try anything else, there are probably 100 war stories about 
folks who have experimented and then got the opportunity to do it right the 
next year.

Search through the archives on the site - most of the late '70's and later 
original CC's had glued in windows and there are a lot of threads on this 
repair. It is doable but not trivial. Jake had a pretty good description if I 
remember correctly.

Gary Nylander
(Been there with moderate success)

- Original Message -
From: Curtis via CnC-Listmailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:21 AM
Subject: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

Good morning,
I'm thinking of a winter project to replace the cabin side windows with 
something stronger and nice. Has anybody undergone this project that could 
share their process and maybe some photos ? Do I just cut them out with a razor 
knife and take them to a lexan shop and have them duplicate them in a lighter 
color?  Is there a framed in type? I have been stopping leaks in them windows 
sense I got the boat?

I also want to rebuild the forward hatch and need something strong and that 
lets in more light. I need to know if the gasket around the inside is 
replaceable? Mine is cracking up and needs to be replaced. all-tho  the leaking 
looks to be the caulking of the class itself to the frame.

If you can share some in-depth details on how the two mentioned projects are to 
be completed I would be very thankful.
I am very good at DIY projects and could do this project without imput. It is 
so much nicer hearing from people that have done it.

Thanks




Best regards,

Curtis

CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady

Port Royal,

South Carolina

cpt.b...@gmail.commailto:bobhick...@rogers.com


 __/) 

.



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To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 

Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

2014-09-23 Thread Nate Flesness via CnC-List
If only wishing made it so

Nate

On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 2:54 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Doesn’t the 30 MK I have the same aluminum frame ports the 35 MK I has?

 Those are pretty easy to DIY.



 *Joe Della Barba*

 *Coquina*

 *CC 35 MK I*





 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dr.
 Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
 *Sent:* Tuesday, September 23, 2014 1:28 PM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements




 I've done a bunch of reading on this topic as my windows are cracked and
 need replacement.
 I don't have any experience actually doing it but I've read multiple
 different techniques -- so my comments should be taken with a grain (or
 bag) of salt!  Nest year I may be able to speak from experience.

 I remember one discussion on the problem with adhesives was that the
 acrylic expands and contracts at different rates than the boat (or does not
 match boat flexing) and that most people put too thin a layer of adhesive -
 which could not absorb the movement.
 The recommended solution was to use double sided tape to keep the acrylic
 a couple millimeters off the gelcoat - then squeeze the adhesive caulk in
 around the edges for the water proofing.  With more thickness there is more
 ability to absorb the different motions.

 Mark







 There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.

   - George Santayana

 On 23/09/2014 12:42 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote:

  A few years ago I lightly ran a cutting knife around the outside edge of
 the 30-year glued windows, went inside and hit each one once, moderately,
 with my fist. Every one popped right out. No gelcoat damage, but scarily
 easy



 Did the cast acrylic/plexus routine, was happy with nice new ports except
 for the not so pretty glue line showing through #2404 bronze 3/8, but then
 this year the large window started leaking again. Broken-hearted would
 cover it.



 One of several reasons we're currently closing on a boat with Lewmar ports.



 Nate

 Sarah Jean
 1980 30-1

 Siskiwit Bay Marina

 Lake Superior





 On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 7:54 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Curtis, be very careful when taking the old ones out. They are glued in
 with some powerful stuff and you stand a good chance of chipping the
 gelcoat around the windows (don't ask me how I know). You may want to try a
 dremel or one of those vibrating side cutters (Fein tool?).



 Then you have to clean up the area where the adhesive was - it was
 probably laid on pretty thick and is another dremel job - again - care.



 Some folks use a special adhesive called Plexus, which is a two part glue
 and needs a special gun for application. The windows are bonded into the
 side of the cabin and are part of the structure. You have to hold them in
 place (they are slightly bent to match the curve of your cabin). Or you can
 use Sikaflex 295, which requires a cleaner, a primer (mandatory!!!) and the
 adhesive. Don't get creative and try anything else, there are probably 100
 war stories about folks who have experimented and then got the opportunity
 to do it right the next year.



 Search through the archives on the site - most of the late '70's and later
 original CC's had glued in windows and there are a lot of threads on this
 repair. It is doable but not trivial. Jake had a pretty good description if
 I remember correctly.



 Gary Nylander

 (Been there with moderate success)



   - Original Message -

 *From:* Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com

 *To:* CnC-List@cnc-list.com

 *Sent:* Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:21 AM

 *Subject:* Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements



 Good morning,

 I'm thinking of a winter project to replace the cabin side windows with
 something stronger and nice. Has anybody undergone this project that could
 share their process and maybe some photos ? Do I just cut them out with a
 razor knife and take them to a lexan shop and have them duplicate them in a
 lighter color?  Is there a framed in type? I have been stopping leaks in
 them windows sense I got the boat?



 I also want to rebuild the forward hatch and need something strong and
 that lets in more light. I need to know if the gasket around the inside is
 replaceable? Mine is cracking up and needs to be replaced. all-tho  the
 leaking looks to be the caulking of the class itself to the frame.



 If you can share some in-depth details on how the two mentioned projects
 are to be completed I would be very thankful.

 I am very good at DIY projects and could do this project without imput. It
 is so much nicer hearing from people that have done it.



 Thanks






 *Best regards,*

 *Curtis*

 *CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

 *Port Royal,*

 *South Carolina*

 *cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*



 * __/) *

 .


--

 

Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

2014-09-23 Thread Curtis via CnC-List
Not mine . Mine are bedded right into the coach top. no frames of any kind?


On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 3:54 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Doesn't the 30 MK I have the same aluminum frame ports the 35 MK I has?

 Those are pretty easy to DIY.



 *Joe Della Barba*

 *Coquina*

 *CC 35 MK I*





 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dr.
 Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
 *Sent:* Tuesday, September 23, 2014 1:28 PM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements




 I've done a bunch of reading on this topic as my windows are cracked and
 need replacement.
 I don't have any experience actually doing it but I've read multiple
 different techniques -- so my comments should be taken with a grain (or
 bag) of salt!  Nest year I may be able to speak from experience.

 I remember one discussion on the problem with adhesives was that the
 acrylic expands and contracts at different rates than the boat (or does not
 match boat flexing) and that most people put too thin a layer of adhesive -
 which could not absorb the movement.
 The recommended solution was to use double sided tape to keep the acrylic
 a couple millimeters off the gelcoat - then squeeze the adhesive caulk in
 around the edges for the water proofing.  With more thickness there is more
 ability to absorb the different motions.

 Mark







 There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.

   - George Santayana

 On 23/09/2014 12:42 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote:

  A few years ago I lightly ran a cutting knife around the outside edge of
 the 30-year glued windows, went inside and hit each one once, moderately,
 with my fist. Every one popped right out. No gelcoat damage, but scarily
 easy



 Did the cast acrylic/plexus routine, was happy with nice new ports except
 for the not so pretty glue line showing through #2404 bronze 3/8, but then
 this year the large window started leaking again. Broken-hearted would
 cover it.



 One of several reasons we're currently closing on a boat with Lewmar ports.



 Nate

 Sarah Jean
 1980 30-1

 Siskiwit Bay Marina

 Lake Superior





 On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 7:54 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Curtis, be very careful when taking the old ones out. They are glued in
 with some powerful stuff and you stand a good chance of chipping the
 gelcoat around the windows (don't ask me how I know). You may want to try a
 dremel or one of those vibrating side cutters (Fein tool?).



 Then you have to clean up the area where the adhesive was - it was
 probably laid on pretty thick and is another dremel job - again - care.



 Some folks use a special adhesive called Plexus, which is a two part glue
 and needs a special gun for application. The windows are bonded into the
 side of the cabin and are part of the structure. You have to hold them in
 place (they are slightly bent to match the curve of your cabin). Or you can
 use Sikaflex 295, which requires a cleaner, a primer (mandatory!!!) and the
 adhesive. Don't get creative and try anything else, there are probably 100
 war stories about folks who have experimented and then got the opportunity
 to do it right the next year.



 Search through the archives on the site - most of the late '70's and later
 original CC's had glued in windows and there are a lot of threads on this
 repair. It is doable but not trivial. Jake had a pretty good description if
 I remember correctly.



 Gary Nylander

 (Been there with moderate success)



   - Original Message -

 *From:* Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com

 *To:* CnC-List@cnc-list.com

 *Sent:* Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:21 AM

 *Subject:* Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements



 Good morning,

 I'm thinking of a winter project to replace the cabin side windows with
 something stronger and nice. Has anybody undergone this project that could
 share their process and maybe some photos ? Do I just cut them out with a
 razor knife and take them to a lexan shop and have them duplicate them in a
 lighter color?  Is there a framed in type? I have been stopping leaks in
 them windows sense I got the boat?



 I also want to rebuild the forward hatch and need something strong and
 that lets in more light. I need to know if the gasket around the inside is
 replaceable? Mine is cracking up and needs to be replaced. all-tho  the
 leaking looks to be the caulking of the class itself to the frame.



 If you can share some in-depth details on how the two mentioned projects
 are to be completed I would be very thankful.

 I am very good at DIY projects and could do this project without imput. It
 is so much nicer hearing from people that have done it.



 Thanks






 *Best regards,*

 *Curtis*

 *CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

 *Port Royal,*

 *South Carolina*

 *cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*



 * __/) *

 .



Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

2014-09-23 Thread Gary Nylander via CnC-List
The earliest ones did, but they changed to the glued ones sometime in the late 
'70's.
Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 3:54 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements


  Doesn't the 30 MK I have the same aluminum frame ports the 35 MK I has?

  Those are pretty easy to DIY.

   

  Joe Della Barba

  Coquina

  CC 35 MK I

   

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark 
Bodnar via CnC-List
  Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 1:28 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

   


  I've done a bunch of reading on this topic as my windows are cracked and need 
replacement.
  I don't have any experience actually doing it but I've read multiple 
different techniques -- so my comments should be taken with a grain (or bag) of 
salt!  Nest year I may be able to speak from experience.

  I remember one discussion on the problem with adhesives was that the acrylic 
expands and contracts at different rates than the boat (or does not match boat 
flexing) and that most people put too thin a layer of adhesive - which could 
not absorb the movement.
  The recommended solution was to use double sided tape to keep the acrylic a 
couple millimeters off the gelcoat - then squeeze the adhesive caulk in around 
the edges for the water proofing.  With more thickness there is more ability to 
absorb the different motions.  

  Mark





  There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.  - George 
SantayanaOn 23/09/2014 12:42 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote:

A few years ago I lightly ran a cutting knife around the outside edge of 
the 30-year glued windows, went inside and hit each one once, moderately, with 
my fist. Every one popped right out. No gelcoat damage, but scarily easy 

 

Did the cast acrylic/plexus routine, was happy with nice new ports except 
for the not so pretty glue line showing through #2404 bronze 3/8, but then 
this year the large window started leaking again. Broken-hearted would cover it.

 

One of several reasons we're currently closing on a boat with Lewmar ports.

 

Nate

Sarah Jean
1980 30-1

Siskiwit Bay Marina

Lake Superior

 

 

On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 7:54 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Curtis, be very careful when taking the old ones out. They are glued in 
with some powerful stuff and you stand a good chance of chipping the gelcoat 
around the windows (don't ask me how I know). You may want to try a dremel or 
one of those vibrating side cutters (Fein tool?).

   

  Then you have to clean up the area where the adhesive was - it was 
probably laid on pretty thick and is another dremel job - again - care.

   

  Some folks use a special adhesive called Plexus, which is a two part glue 
and needs a special gun for application. The windows are bonded into the side 
of the cabin and are part of the structure. You have to hold them in place 
(they are slightly bent to match the curve of your cabin). Or you can use 
Sikaflex 295, which requires a cleaner, a primer (mandatory!!!) and the 
adhesive. Don't get creative and try anything else, there are probably 100 war 
stories about folks who have experimented and then got the opportunity to do it 
right the next year.

   

  Search through the archives on the site - most of the late '70's and 
later original CC's had glued in windows and there are a lot of threads on 
this repair. It is doable but not trivial. Jake had a pretty good description 
if I remember correctly.

   

  Gary Nylander

  (Been there with moderate success)

   

- Original Message - 

From: Curtis via CnC-List 

To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com 

Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:21 AM

Subject: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

 

Good morning,

I'm thinking of a winter project to replace the cabin side windows with 
something stronger and nice. Has anybody undergone this project that could 
share their process and maybe some photos ? Do I just cut them out with a razor 
knife and take them to a lexan shop and have them duplicate them in a lighter 
color?  Is there a framed in type? I have been stopping leaks in them windows 
sense I got the boat? 

 

I also want to rebuild the forward hatch and need something strong and 
that lets in more light. I need to know if the gasket around the inside is 
replaceable? Mine is cracking up and needs to be replaced. all-tho  the leaking 
looks to be the caulking of the class itself to the frame.

 

If you can share some in-depth details on how the two mentioned 
projects are to be completed I would be very thankful. 

I am very 

Re: Stus-List Wife dosen't like it when the boat leans

2014-09-23 Thread Tim Goodyear via CnC-List
Dennis / others,

Do you have any recommendations for such a course, preferably somewhere warm 
and with some considerable learning opportunities (moving from very competent 
crew to command / self-sufficiency, not basics)?  Bev / other female listers, 
I'd be interested in your opinions too.

Thanks,

Tim

 On Sep 22, 2014, at 5:31 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Don't just send your lady to sailing lessons.  Send her to a week long ladies 
 only sailing class.  It's a LOT different than taking lessons with a coed 
 group.  She will not just get sailing lessons, she will get emotional 
 support, counselling, share experiences with other women, etc.  Chances are 
 it will be a much more positive experience for her.
 
 I've had a couple lady friends do it and they absolutely swear it's the only 
 way to learn sailing.  
 
 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA
 
 On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 4:03 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 I'll let you guys know how the lessons help.. 
 
 Racing did not help, she clammed-up even worse for fear that she'd screw 
 something up. Even if on that particular race, everything that could be 
 screwed-up was already taken care of  so no one really cared.  No amount of 
 screwing-up was going to make our last place any worse.  :-) 
 
 Giving her the helm.. Been there done that, same result. 
 
 Talking to other wifes.. It depends,  At the club parties it runs the gammut 
 from enthusiastic sailor ladies to killjoys that never come out sailing, 
 just show up for parties..  When she runs into the lather all they say is 
 too hot, too cold, too windy, too sunny, too humid, etc, etc.   then  I'm 
 loosing ground.
 
 I'm banking on the lessons..  Truth to be told, if you're that much not into 
 the boating thing, just sitting around on a boat is not much more fun than 
 sitting around anywhere else.. Especially given the fact that on the lake, 
 when it's (Really) windy, it's usually not very sunny, often a bit coldish,  
 so you have to look at the big picture to appreciate what's going on.  
 
 On the plus she's fairly athletic so maybe once she told what's what by 
 someone else and understands better what's going on she'll get into the 
 workout / physical side of it and get a little rush that way... 
 
 I guess that's typical boat stuff:  one more thing to figure out...
 
 -Francois
 1990 34+ Take Five 
 Lake Lanier, Georgia.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

2014-09-23 Thread Joe at Zialater via CnC-List
Hi Curtis,

Are you talking about replacing just the windows in the aluminum frames on
your 30-1?  I replaced the windows and splines on my 1975  30-1 last year
and it was a breeze.  I actually was able to use the same windows as they
cleaned up very nicely with a plastic polish.  It would have been a simple
matter to use the old windows as a template for cutting new ones had I
needed them.

I ordered the spline and backing from southshoreyachts.com for maybe $60 for
all 4 windows (other listers had mentioned alternate sources for less
dough).  I installed it in an hour or two.  The original spline had dried
out and was white and chalky - the new spline fit perfectly and the leaks
are a thing of the past.  Looks like new too.  The Southshore window kit
includes detailed instructions as I recall.

Good luck,

Joe Boyle
1975 30-1  'Zia'
Annapolis


- Original Message -
From: Curtis via CnC-Listmailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:21 AM
Subject: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

Good morning,
I'm thinking of a winter project to replace the cabin side windows with
something stronger and nice. Has anybody undergone this project that could
share their process and maybe some photos ? Do I just cut them out with a
razor knife and take them to a lexan shop and have them duplicate them in a
lighter color?  Is there a framed in type? I have been stopping leaks in
them windows sense I got the boat?

I also want to rebuild the forward hatch and need something strong and that
lets in more light. I need to know if the gasket around the inside is
replaceable? Mine is cracking up and needs to be replaced. all-tho  the
leaking looks to be the caulking of the class itself to the frame.

If you can share some in-depth details on how the two mentioned projects are
to be completed I would be very thankful.
I am very good at DIY projects and could do this project without imput. It
is so much nicer hearing from people that have done it.

Thanks




Best regards,

Curtis

CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady

Port Royal,

South Carolina

cpt.b...@gmail.commailto:bobhick...@rogers.com



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Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

2014-09-23 Thread Curtis via CnC-List
Mine do not have frames. There bedded right into the coach house.

On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 4:46 PM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Hi Curtis,

 Are you talking about replacing just the windows in the aluminum frames on
 your 30-1?  I replaced the windows and splines on my 1975  30-1 last year
 and it was a breeze.  I actually was able to use the same windows as they
 cleaned up very nicely with a plastic polish.  It would have been a simple
 matter to use the old windows as a template for cutting new ones had I
 needed them.

 I ordered the spline and backing from southshoreyachts.com for maybe $60
 for
 all 4 windows (other listers had mentioned alternate sources for less
 dough).  I installed it in an hour or two.  The original spline had dried
 out and was white and chalky - the new spline fit perfectly and the leaks
 are a thing of the past.  Looks like new too.  The Southshore window kit
 includes detailed instructions as I recall.

 Good luck,

 Joe Boyle
 1975 30-1  'Zia'
 Annapolis


 - Original Message -
 From: Curtis via CnC-Listmailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:21 AM
 Subject: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

 Good morning,
 I'm thinking of a winter project to replace the cabin side windows with
 something stronger and nice. Has anybody undergone this project that could
 share their process and maybe some photos ? Do I just cut them out with a
 razor knife and take them to a lexan shop and have them duplicate them in a
 lighter color?  Is there a framed in type? I have been stopping leaks in
 them windows sense I got the boat?

 I also want to rebuild the forward hatch and need something strong and that
 lets in more light. I need to know if the gasket around the inside is
 replaceable? Mine is cracking up and needs to be replaced. all-tho  the
 leaking looks to be the caulking of the class itself to the frame.

 If you can share some in-depth details on how the two mentioned projects
 are
 to be completed I would be very thankful.
 I am very good at DIY projects and could do this project without imput. It
 is so much nicer hearing from people that have done it.

 Thanks




 Best regards,

 Curtis

 CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady

 Port Royal,

 South Carolina

 cpt.b...@gmail.commailto:bobhick...@rogers.com
 


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-- 

*Best regards,*


*Curtis McDaniel, *


*CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*


*Port Royal,*


*South Carolina*

*cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


* __/) *

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Re: Stus-List Wife dosen't like it when the boat leans

2014-09-23 Thread Gary Nylander via CnC-List
Try Womanship - they have a school in Annapolis, but hold classes in the 
Caribbean.

A friend went - loved it.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
  To: Dennis C. ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard 
  Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 4:46 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Wife dosen't like it when the boat leans


  Dennis / others,


  Do you have any recommendations for such a course, preferably somewhere warm 
and with some considerable learning opportunities (moving from very competent 
crew to command / self-sufficiency, not basics)?  Bev / other female listers, 
I'd be interested in your opinions too.


  Thanks,


  Tim

  On Sep 22, 2014, at 5:31 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:


Don't just send your lady to sailing lessons.  Send her to a week long 
ladies only sailing class.  It's a LOT different than taking lessons with a 
coed group.  She will not just get sailing lessons, she will get emotional 
support, counselling, share experiences with other women, etc.  Chances are it 
will be a much more positive experience for her.


I've had a couple lady friends do it and they absolutely swear it's the 
only way to learn sailing.  


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA



On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 4:03 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  I'll let you guys know how the lessons help.. 

  Racing did not help, she clammed-up even worse for fear that she'd screw 
something up. Even if on that particular race, everything that could be 
screwed-up was already taken care of  so no one really cared.  No amount of 
screwing-up was going to make our last place any worse.  :-) 

  Giving her the helm.. Been there done that, same result. 

  Talking to other wifes.. It depends,  At the club parties it runs the 
gammut from enthusiastic sailor ladies to killjoys that never come out sailing, 
just show up for parties..  When she runs into the lather all they say is too 
hot, too cold, too windy, too sunny, too humid, etc, etc.   then  I'm loosing 
ground.

  I'm banking on the lessons..  Truth to be told, if you're that much not 
into the boating thing, just sitting around on a boat is not much more fun than 
sitting around anywhere else.. Especially given the fact that on the lake, when 
it's (Really) windy, it's usually not very sunny, often a bit coldish,  so you 
have to look at the big picture to appreciate what's going on.  

  On the plus she's fairly athletic so maybe once she told what's what by 
someone else and understands better what's going on she'll get into the workout 
/ physical side of it and get a little rush that way... 

  I guess that's typical boat stuff:  one more thing to figure out...

  -Francois
  1990 34+ Take Five 
  Lake Lanier, Georgia.  











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Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

2014-09-23 Thread John Irvin via CnC-List
I have a 27 Mk lll. Replaced windows with 1/4 in Plexiglas held in place by 
double.-sided butyl tape. Foolproof.

-Original Message-
From: Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: ‎2014-‎09-‎23 1:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements


I've done a bunch of reading on this topic as my windows are cracked and need 
replacement.
I don't have any experience actually doing it but I've read multiple 
different techniques -- so my comments should be taken with a grain (or bag) of 
salt!  Nest year I may be able to speak from experience.

I remember one discussion on the problem with adhesives was that the acrylic 
expands and contracts at different rates than the boat (or does not match boat 
flexing) and that most people put too thin a layer of adhesive - which could 
not absorb the movement.
The recommended solution was to use double sided tape to keep the acrylic a 
couple millimeters off the gelcoat - then squeeze the adhesive caulk in around 
the edges for the water proofing.  With more thickness there is more ability to 
absorb the different motions.  

Mark




There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George SantayanaOn 23/09/2014 12:42 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote:

A few years ago I lightly ran a cutting knife around the outside edge of the 
30-year glued windows, went inside and hit each one once, moderately, with my 
fist. Every one popped right out. No gelcoat damage, but scarily easy 


Did the cast acrylic/plexus routine, was happy with nice new ports except for 
the not so pretty glue line showing through #2404 bronze 3/8, but then this 
year the large window started leaking again. Broken-hearted would cover it.


One of several reasons we're currently closing on a boat with Lewmar ports.


Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior




On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 7:54 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Curtis, be very careful when taking the old ones out. They are glued in with 
some powerful stuff and you stand a good chance of chipping the gelcoat around 
the windows (don't ask me how I know). You may want to try a dremel or one of 
those vibrating side cutters (Fein tool?).
 
Then you have to clean up the area where the adhesive was - it was probably 
laid on pretty thick and is another dremel job - again - care.
 
Some folks use a special adhesive called Plexus, which is a two part glue and 
needs a special gun for application. The windows are bonded into the side of 
the cabin and are part of the structure. You have to hold them in place (they 
are slightly bent to match the curve of your cabin). Or you can use Sikaflex 
295, which requires a cleaner, a primer (mandatory!!!) and the adhesive. Don't 
get creative and try anything else, there are probably 100 war stories about 
folks who have experimented and then got the opportunity to do it right the 
next year.
 
Search through the archives on the site - most of the late '70's and later 
original CC's had glued in windows and there are a lot of threads on this 
repair. It is doable but not trivial. Jake had a pretty good description if I 
remember correctly.
 
Gary Nylander
(Been there with moderate success)
 
- Original Message - 
From: Curtis via CnC-List 
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:21 AM
Subject: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements


Good morning,
I'm thinking of a winter project to replace the cabin side windows with 
something stronger and nice. Has anybody undergone this project that could 
share their process and maybe some photos ? Do I just cut them out with a razor 
knife and take them to a lexan shop and have them duplicate them in a lighter 
color?  Is there a framed in type? I have been stopping leaks in them windows 
sense I got the boat? 


I also want to rebuild the forward hatch and need something strong and that 
lets in more light. I need to know if the gasket around the inside is 
replaceable? Mine is cracking up and needs to be replaced. all-tho  the leaking 
looks to be the caulking of the class itself to the frame.


If you can share some in-depth details on how the two mentioned projects are to 
be completed I would be very thankful. 
I am very good at DIY projects and could do this project without imput. It is 
so much nicer hearing from people that have done it.


Thanks  



 
Best regards,
Curtis

CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady

Port Royal,

South Carolina

cpt.b...@gmail.com
 
 __/) 

. 






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Re: Stus-List Wife dosen't like it when the boat leans

2014-09-23 Thread Us via CnC-List
Ok, here's a response from a woman.

I married into sailing. Started with a small boat, took trips to New England 
and the Caribbean on  charters in significantly larger boats (where my love for 
CC began). I learned to love the lifestyle and a bit of racing but what really 
shifted my thinking was crewing on someone else's boat. 

Consider this, expectations are high and so is pressure when sailing with a 
spouse. When sailing on another accomplished skippers boat as added crew, you 
see how the experienced crew handles everything and before you know it you 
relax,  a few years have passed, and your right there with them, loving every 
second.

I wouldn't expect every wife to catch the bug I did, but they might certainly 
see sailing from a different perspective and enjoy it more with a higher level 
of confidence.

I know on Lake Lanier and other bodies of water there are some very patient and 
good skippers that would welcome a learning spouse. I'd be happy to help as 
well...

Joanne Mocny
S/V Obsession
CC 37/40+

Sent from my iPad

 On Sep 23, 2014, at 4:59 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Try Womanship - they have a school in Annapolis, but hold classes in the 
 Caribbean.
  
 A friend went - loved it.
  
 Gary
 - Original Message -
 From: Tim Goodyear via CnC-List
 To: Dennis C. ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard
 Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 4:46 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Wife dosen't like it when the boat leans
 
 Dennis / others,
 
 Do you have any recommendations for such a course, preferably somewhere warm 
 and with some considerable learning opportunities (moving from very competent 
 crew to command / self-sufficiency, not basics)?  Bev / other female listers, 
 I'd be interested in your opinions too.
 
 Thanks,
 
 Tim
 
 On Sep 22, 2014, at 5:31 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Don't just send your lady to sailing lessons.  Send her to a week long 
 ladies only sailing class.  It's a LOT different than taking lessons with a 
 coed group.  She will not just get sailing lessons, she will get emotional 
 support, counselling, share experiences with other women, etc.  Chances are 
 it will be a much more positive experience for her.
 
 I've had a couple lady friends do it and they absolutely swear it's the only 
 way to learn sailing.  
 
 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA
 
 On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 4:03 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 I'll let you guys know how the lessons help.. 
 
 Racing did not help, she clammed-up even worse for fear that she'd screw 
 something up. Even if on that particular race, everything that could be 
 screwed-up was already taken care of  so no one really cared.  No amount of 
 screwing-up was going to make our last place any worse.  :-) 
 
 Giving her the helm.. Been there done that, same result. 
 
 Talking to other wifes.. It depends,  At the club parties it runs the 
 gammut from enthusiastic sailor ladies to killjoys that never come out 
 sailing, just show up for parties..  When she runs into the lather all they 
 say is too hot, too cold, too windy, too sunny, too humid, etc, etc.   then 
  I'm loosing ground.
 
 I'm banking on the lessons..  Truth to be told, if you're that much not 
 into the boating thing, just sitting around on a boat is not much more fun 
 than sitting around anywhere else.. Especially given the fact that on the 
 lake, when it's (Really) windy, it's usually not very sunny, often a bit 
 coldish,  so you have to look at the big picture to appreciate what's going 
 on.  
 
 On the plus she's fairly athletic so maybe once she told what's what by 
 someone else andunderstands better what's going on she'll get into 
 the workout / physical side of it and get a little rush that way... 
 
 I guess that's typical boat stuff:  one more thing to figure out...
 
 -Francois
 1990 34+ Take Five 
 Lake Lanier, Georgia.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

2014-09-23 Thread Robert Abbott via CnC-List

Curtis:

Our 1984 - 32 had original side cabin windows that leaked.no matter
what I tried to stop the leaks, it didn't work. The last straw was when
we put new upholstery on the boat in 2009I couldn't put up with
leaks any more.

So in the Spring 2010, while the boat was still under the white
shrinkwrap cover, the decision was made to install new windows.  I first
asked some of the contractors around the boatyard what they would charge
to do the job.most said they wouldn't do it because the windows
don't have frames and/or screws.two problems for the
contractorswithout frames and/or screws, the job is more time
consuming and hard to provide an estimate of time, and second, without
frames and/or screws, they can't guarantee the windows will stay in
place.  I must warn you, this is a time consuming job.

Find a source for your new windowsmake sure they will cut the new
ones for you.take your old ones to be used as templates.  I used the
same material (acrylic) and color as the old windows.

To remove the old windows (OWs), I took a narrow putty knife and cut
about an inch off the blade and then sharpened the blade with a file.
 From the inside, I cut out each window with the putty knife and a
hammer.  Three windows came out without incident.then shit happened
on the port, forward window..I got the sides and bottom cut but I
couldn't easily cut the top of that window.  The original adhesive CC
used was two part plexus and after 25 years it hardens like resin.as
careful as I was I still managed to push the bottom of the window out
causing the top to come loose and take a strip of gelcoat with it.
Another repair job and another story, and another reason why the
contractors don't like to provide an estimate on these jobs..you
don't know for sure what you are getting yourself in for.

OWs out...cleaned them up and took them to Sabic Polymer to have new
windows cut.same thickness, material, color.  The new windows (NWs)
will have paper on both sidesdon't remove the paper.

Now to clean up the framesthe prep is very importantI used a
drummel tool with a fine bit to remove most of the old adhesive, then a
palm sander, then hand sanded.  Filled any imperfections in the frame
with polyster resin bought at an automotive store.  When the frames are
cleaned, it is time to place the NWs into them (dry, no adhesive) to
determine the actual fit.

Place each NW into its respective frame and from the inside, draw a line
with a marker along the inside of the frame onto the paper on the NW.
You will need to have someone hold the NW from the outside or have the
NW braced...I will get to the bracing shortly.  The inside paper along
the line must be cut from the window with a razor blade or sharp utility
knife.  It is this part on the NW that will be glued to the frame. I
repeat, it is a slow and labor intensive job.patience is required.

When the inside paper along the line has been cut and removed, there
will be about an inch of NW exposed..rough up this exposed glass
with sand paper.

With a good quality masking tape, tape the frames both inside and
outside...do a good job with this as it is important for cleanup.  Also
have plenty of rags for cleanup and a solvent like Varsol.if you use
Sika as the adhesive, it is black and messy.

Now you are ready to begin installing the NWs.  I researched what
adhesive to use and I went with Sikaflex 295 UV and if you choose this
as well, make sure you get the Sikaflex primer.it is expensive, but
don't, I repeat, don't do this without using the Sika primer.

Two tubes of Sika 295 UV will be sufficient..I had both tubes opened,
each in a caulking gun.one tube I had the end cut to produce a
'triangle bead'.the second tube had the normal small bead.

Take your Sika primer and apply to one frame at a time..then apply
the primer to the NW where you cut the paper from.  Read the
instructions carefully and watch the time between applying the primer
and then the adhesive..I think you should wait about 10 to 20
minutes maximum.

Take the caulking gun with the triangle bead and apply liberally to the
inside of the NW.then take the second gun and apply a bead of Sika
all along the 90 deg. angle of the frame.  Use lots of adhesive.when
you fit the NW into the frame, you want adhesive coming out all around
the window/frame.as such, there will be lots of adhesive and
hopefully no voids between the NW and frame.  I did not use spacers
between the window and frame.  I know it is recommended, I actually had
the spacers but thought against it.  For me, it was just another place
for problems to occur down the road.  Just make sure you use lots of
adhesive to achieve at least an 1/8 thickness.

Now, that the NW is in place, you have to brace it to let the adhesive
cure.  Beforehand, I went around the boatyard and collected pieces of 2
X 4 that members were throwing away from winter covers and cut them

Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

2014-09-23 Thread John and Maryann Read via CnC-List
Let’s se



Mast up = HUGE increase in windage and pressure brought to bear on cradle or 
jack stand pads = increased issues of hull flexing / damage

Effective area of pad in contact with hull is about same as your hand clenched 
in a fist

Pads are located in area of cored hull



Yard has purpose built mobile crane for masts with extending boom etc.  Takes 
about 15 minutes to pull

Yard staff is well seasoned and qualified



Get to thoroughly inspect mast, rigging, lights and instruments every year



Have stored with mast down for 30+ years – works for me



John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 CC 34

Noank, CT



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Re: Stus-List Wife dosen't like it when the boat leans

2014-09-23 Thread Chuck S via CnC-List
Thanks for the suggestions. All good, but not for my girl. 
Hiring a coach or taking a course won't change the fact that she doesn't like 
that sailboats lean when powered up. She's just not interested in a sailing 
course or coaching or changing. We're 60 and been together 30+ years. We've had 
this boat for 12 years and she likes harbor cruises under power or anchoring 
overnight, or all the social stuff at the dock or rafting up. My daughter is 
the same. My son however is like me and took to sailing right off. He joined 
his college's sailing team and loves racing with me. I've raced the boat 
without my wife or daughter and won regattas with 1st time ever crew, so I 
assure you I am fairly competent. I can calmly explain which line to put to 
what winch and which way to turn it and never raise my voice except to be 
heard. I've put newbies on the wheel and coached them to steer and they loved 
steering. I've also taken guests who just wanted a ride, didn't want to do 
anything and I just set the autohelm and do it all like I do when I'm alone. My 
wife likes that style until it gets above 10 knots when the boat comes alive 
and we start making 6 plus knots and heel to 25 degrees cause the apparent 
becomes 16 and then we're doing 7.3 knots and lovin it, until she's almost 
crying something like, do you have to make it lean so much? Let's find a place 
to go swimming. 

She's missing the sailing gene, but I can't change her and she has no desire to 
take a course or let me hire a coach. I guess I'll run our boat like a trawler 
when she's aboard, and save the sailing for when she's not there. I'm gonna 
order that tow toy. 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 CC 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
To: Gary Nylander gnylan...@atlanticbb.net, CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 7:44:09 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wife dosen't like it when the boat leans 

Ok, here's a response from a woman. 

I married into sailing. Started with a small boat, took trips to New England 
and the Caribbean on charters in significantly larger boats (where my love for 
CC began). I learned to love the lifestyle and a bit of racing but what really 
shifted my thinking was crewing on someone else's boat. 

Consider this, expectations are high and so is pressure when sailing with a 
spouse. When sailing on another accomplished skippers boat as added crew, you 
see how the experienced crew handles everything and before you know it you 
relax, a few years have passed, and your right there with them, loving every 
second. 

I wouldn't expect every wife to catch the bug I did, but they might certainly 
see sailing from a different perspective and enjoy it more with a higher level 
of confidence. 

I know on Lake Lanier and other bodies of water there are some very patient and 
good skippers that would welcome a learning spouse. I'd be happy to help as 
well... 

Joanne Mocny 
S/V Obsession 
CC 37/40+ 

Sent from my iPad 

On Sep 23, 2014, at 4:59 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List  cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote: 




Try Womanship - they have a school in Annapolis, but hold classes in the 
Caribbean. 
A friend went - loved it. 
Gary 

blockquote

- Original Message - 
From: Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
To: Dennis C. ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard 
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 4:46 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wife dosen't like it when the boat leans 

Dennis / others, 

Do you have any recommendations for such a course, preferably somewhere warm 
and with some considerable learning opportunities (moving from very competent 
crew to command / self-sufficiency, not basics)? Bev / other female listers, 
I'd be interested in your opinions too. 

Thanks, 

Tim 

On Sep 22, 2014, at 5:31 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
wrote: 


blockquote

Don't just send your lady to sailing lessons. Send her to a week long ladies 
only sailing class. It's a LOT different than taking lessons with a coed group. 
She will not just get sailing lessons, she will get emotional support, 
counselling, share experiences with other women, etc. Chances are it will be a 
much more positive experience for her. 

I've had a couple lady friends do it and they absolutely swear it's the only 
way to learn sailing. 

Dennis C. 
Touche' 35-1 #83 
Mandeville, LA 

On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 4:03 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com  wrote: 

blockquote



I'll let you guys know how the lessons help.. 



Racing did not help, she clammed-up even worse for fear that she'd screw 
something up. Even if on that particular race, everything that could be 
screwed-up was already taken care of so no one really cared. No amount of 
screwing-up was going to make our last place any worse. :-) 



Giving her the helm.. Been there done that, same result. 



Talking to other wifes.. It