Re: Stus-List Some background on possibly the first cc 34 3/4 ton
Found some more info. Looks like not many were made. Same hull and sail plan as the 33 MK I but a very different deck and interior. My boat has 3 deck hatches but I sacrifice cockpit size, forward headroom, V-berth and other comforts like a real galley, separate shower and head, pressurized potable water… the list is long. I don’t know if the changes result in a lot more performance but I now have 33 MK1 envy. Although the simplicity is kind of nice. Very little to break and maintain. With the help of the Admiral we will find a way to make her comfortable (enough). The follow on review says this boat points very well and performs fairly well off the wind but tends to yaw a bit in a following sea. I have experienced the upwind performance, especially with Kevlar sails but have not had the opportunity to run in a decent sea although she seems stable running with a strong breeze on relatively flat water. The first CC 33's were designed by the original CC design group and made in the CC custom shop in 1974 as custom, three-quarter tonners. But after producing just three boats, CC yielded to market demands and began building the CC 33 in the factory. One hundred and sixty five CC 33s (MK I) were built in production, according to CC expert, Rob MacLachlan from Southshore Yachts. Construction continued right up until 1977, when the CC 34 came along to replace it. (Note, this generation of CC 33 is not to be confused with or compared to the post-80s, Rob Ball-designed CC 33 MK II, which was a totally different design. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 7:36 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Some background on possibly the first cc 34 3/4 ton For a few years we raced against a ¾ ton Special. We could beat them boat-for-boat, but saving our time against them was hard. The PHRF ratings of the time made the ¾ Ton look a lot slower than the 35 than it really was. Boat for boat we were very close. Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anchor question
If you weld a rollbar onto a Delta I think you are close to the newest anchors LOL. Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2014 8:09 PM To: Paul Baker; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Anchor question Damn I thought my Delta was new tech. Joel On Tuesday, November 11, 2014, Paul Baker via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Or a Manson Supreme (not made in China), or a Mantus - any of the new generation of anchors appear to be an improvement over delta/cqr/danforth etc. On 14-11-11 02:57 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote: Adding my 2 cents late: I have a 1990 CC 34R, (a 5.5 ton 36 footer) and a 22# Delta sets quickly with the 18 ft of chain, which is half a boatlength. The system holds fine up to about 25 knots of wind. Above that she sometimes dragged, especially if the wind is gusty and shifting constantly. When that happens, I add a 20# kellet or a second anchor. I pull the anchor by hand so will keep the system as light as possible. We anchor in 10 to 25 ft of water and the research says adding more chain (more than 2/3rds scope) does not improve holding. I did a little research after this thread and I am sold on buying a Rocna 15, which should work better for me. More money than I wanted to spend, but good insurance for future cruises. Thanks guys. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.comjavascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com'); To: Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.comjavascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','muckl...@gmail.com');, CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.comjavascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com'); Sent: Thursday, November 6, 2014 5:05:00 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Anchor question Mark, If all you want is a lunch hook the smaller one is fine for your boat. If you plan to do extended cruising where you could be caught in an anchorage (as opposed to a marina) in a storm then I would re-evaluate. I'm not doing extended cruising, so personally I would not upsize. (I have a 22 lb Delta and only 10 feet of chain. Yes, I need more chain.) Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Thu, Nov 6, 2014 at 4:56 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.comjavascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com'); wrote: While we're on the topic of anchors, how do those of you with windlasses have then mounted. I've considered one but can't figure out a good solution for my 37+. Pictures would be awsome. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Nov 6, 2014 4:40 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.comjavascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com'); wrote: Hi Mark I've got a Rocna 15 hanging on the front of Secret Plans, and now that the boats are hauled if you like you could borrow it to do a test fit and see how it hangs. I'm very happy with it. I do have a windlass tho' Graham Collins Secret Plans CC 35-III #11 On 2014-11-06 11:08 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote: Looking for feedback on new anchors. Currently I have a Kingston brand, 30lb, CQR anchor. Not too impressed with its ability to bite even into the nicest sand. Having read a ton of info, reviews and comments I'm looking at the 'new' style anchors. I was tempted to go with a Mantus - but price is high and no local distributer. Ronca's are on sale right now at the Binnacle - so that makes the decision easier. The question is what size. I've read the typical 'minimum 1 foot of chain and 1 pound of anchor for every foot of boat'. But not sure how well it applies to new versions. Reading Ronca's recommendations http://www.rocna.com/product-range/sizing-guide My 8000lb 30 ft CS 30 would easily fit the 10kg (22lb) recommendation. Sure. For the extra $60 I could bump up to the bigger anchor. Not sure how well either will fit on my bow. I'm sure the heavier anchor would be harder to haul up - but maybe worth it for the peace of mind? Reading some independent reviews (as posted by Ronca) http://www.petersmith.net.nz/boat-anchors/independent-performance-testing.php One claims the Ronca 15 consistently held with 4500lbs. A chart ( The ABYC Horizontal Working Load (lbs) Table) of expected anchor strains suggests a 30ft boat would only exert 2800lbs of anchor strain in a 60kt severe storm --- not something I expect to confront in my costal cruising. I'm on the fence. On one hand tempted to just bump up to the 15kg and deal with the minor extra challenge dragging the anchor up (I'm fit enough to manage) - then its never a concern and when I do start venturing further along the coast I have a security blanket. On the other wondering if I'm getting into foolish overkill as the 15kg anchor could manage a boat 2x my weight in a heavy storm. Thoughts and opinions welcome. Mark -- Dr. Mark Bodnar --
Stus-List BG parts
I have a BG Hydra 2000 system. On Monday I had what will, sadly, probably be my last sail since we've moved to Cincinnati. As luck would have it, a bird appears to have visited and broken the vane on the wind direction sensor at the top of the mast is broken. The electronics all seem to work, but with only the heavy part of the vane (no fin) it now just points to the low side of the boat. Does anyone know whether these parts are available anywhere? Thanks, Bill Starfire 1985 CC 37 -- William D. Hall, Ph.D. 617 620 9078 (c) wh...@alum.mit.edu ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List BG parts
Myles Electronics at: http://www.bandgservice.com/ Or BG Service at: http://www.bandg-service.com/ I don't think they're the same. Dennis C. On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 11:14 AM, William Hall via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I have a BG Hydra 2000 system. On Monday I had what will, sadly, probably be my last sail since we've moved to Cincinnati. As luck would have it, a bird appears to have visited and broken the vane on the wind direction sensor at the top of the mast is broken. The electronics all seem to work, but with only the heavy part of the vane (no fin) it now just points to the low side of the boat. Does anyone know whether these parts are available anywhere? Thanks, Bill Starfire 1985 CC 37 -- William D. Hall, Ph.D. 617 620 9078 (c) wh...@alum.mit.edu ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List BG parts
This is the last email I had myles...@cfl.rr.com www. http://www.MylesElectronics.com MylesElectronics.com Bill Coleman CC 39 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 12:51 PM To: William Hall; CnClist Subject: Re: Stus-List BG parts Myles Electronics at: http://www.bandgservice.com/ Or BG Service at: http://www.bandg-service.com/ I don't think they're the same. Dennis C. On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 11:14 AM, William Hall via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I have a BG Hydra 2000 system. On Monday I had what will, sadly, probably be my last sail since we've moved to Cincinnati. As luck would have it, a bird appears to have visited and broken the vane on the wind direction sensor at the top of the mast is broken. The electronics all seem to work, but with only the heavy part of the vane (no fin) it now just points to the low side of the boat. Does anyone know whether these parts are available anywhere? Thanks, Bill Starfire 1985 CC 37 -- William D. Hall, Ph.D. 617 620 9078 tel:617%20620%209078 (c) wh...@alum.mit.edu ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Exhaust hose replacement for 33-1
With all the talk about the 3/4 tons and the 33-1, how do you replace the exhaust hose on the 33-1? Have any 33-1 owners had the exhaust hose replaced? I would like to replace the exhaust hose, muffler to transom, on my 33-1. The issue is removing the hose from the “tailpipe” on the reverse transom. There are two round inspection ports high up on the aft cockpit wall but the distance from each to the hose clamps is probably four feet. Without cutting new lower ports, the approach from the cockpit does not seem to be a option. Cutting a large opening(s) near the cockpit floor is something I would greatly like to avoid. Approaching the hose clamps from the starboard cockpit locker (open space from saloon bulkhead to transom except for enclosed port quarter berth) I can barely reach the rudder quadrant and the clamps are probably another 3-4 feet further aft. Maybe removing the gas tank and rudder quadrant, because the center section is deeper in this IOR narrow and pointy transom, a very skinny person with long arms might be able to reach the clamps. See diagram below. Have any owners with a similar configuration had the exhaust hose replaced? The exhaust hose actually makes a loop high up into this transom section before exiting at the fitting. Any suggestions, tips, tricks on how to remove the hose clamps and hose from the fitting are welcome. Use Courier font for drawing (not to scale): ___ / | /() / | / | ~ ~ ~~ / |___||_ / || =/= || /|| \__ || \||__ || rudder ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Exhaust hose replacement for 33-1
I just found something to like about my ¾ ton special. I have a deck hatch on the gunwale aft of the cockpit that is big enough to let me get right down into that space behind the engine. I can get to everything in there without performing any circus tricks or cutting anything. I am not familiar enough with the layout of the 33-1 to offer much assistance except this: The reason your exhaust hose loops up before attaching at the tail pipe is to create a siphon block. You should plan the same for your new hose. Best of luck! Burt 1974 CC 33 ¾ ton special Portsmouth, RI (still searching for a good name) From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rod Randow via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 1:53 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Exhaust hose replacement for 33-1 With all the talk about the 3/4 tons and the 33-1, how do you replace the exhaust hose on the 33-1? Have any 33-1 owners had the exhaust hose replaced? I would like to replace the exhaust hose, muffler to transom, on my 33-1. The issue is removing the hose from the “tailpipe” on the reverse transom. There are two round inspection ports high up on the aft cockpit wall but the distance from each to the hose clamps is probably four feet. Without cutting new lower ports, the approach from the cockpit does not seem to be a option. Cutting a large opening(s) near the cockpit floor is something I would greatly like to avoid. Approaching the hose clamps from the starboard cockpit locker (open space from saloon bulkhead to transom except for enclosed port quarter berth) I can barely reach the rudder quadrant and the clamps are probably another 3-4 feet further aft. Maybe removing the gas tank and rudder quadrant, because the center section is deeper in this IOR narrow and pointy transom, a very skinny person with long arms might be able to reach the clamps. See diagram below. Have any owners with a similar configuration had the exhaust hose replaced? The exhaust hose actually makes a loop high up into this transom section before exiting at the fitting. Any suggestions, tips, tricks on how to remove the hose clamps and hose from the fitting are welcome. Use Courier font for drawing (not to scale): ___ / | /() / | / | ~ ~ ~~ / |___||_ / || =/= || /|| \__ || \||__ || rudder ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Exhaust hose replacement for 33-1
In my 1975 CC 33-1, I was able (many years ago) to get my daughter (when she was 11) to squeeze into that space (twice) once to remove the old exhaust and again to put a new one back on. We did this by removing the engine control panel and both screw-on access ports to reduce claustrophobia. I do recall saying righty tighty repeatedly as she couldn't initially get the hose clamp to tighten. In the worst case, I think you can remove the steering quadrant and then even I could squeeze back there (though I've never tried it). Good luck! David On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 2:19 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I just found something to like about my ¾ ton special. I have a deck hatch on the gunwale aft of the cockpit that is big enough to let me get right down into that space behind the engine. I can get to everything in there without performing any circus tricks or cutting anything. I am not familiar enough with the layout of the 33-1 to offer much assistance except this: The reason your exhaust hose loops up before attaching at the tail pipe is to create a siphon block. You should plan the same for your new hose. Best of luck! Burt 1974 CC 33 ¾ ton special Portsmouth, RI (still searching for a good name) *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rod Randow via CnC-List *Sent:* Wednesday, November 12, 2014 1:53 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Stus-List Exhaust hose replacement for 33-1 With all the talk about the 3/4 tons and the 33-1, how do you replace the exhaust hose on the 33-1? Have any 33-1 owners had the exhaust hose replaced? I would like to replace the exhaust hose, muffler to transom, on my 33-1. The issue is removing the hose from the “tailpipe” on the reverse transom. There are two round inspection ports high up on the aft cockpit wall but the distance from each to the hose clamps is probably four feet. Without cutting new lower ports, the approach from the cockpit does not seem to be a option. Cutting a large opening(s) near the cockpit floor is something I would greatly like to avoid. Approaching the hose clamps from the starboard cockpit locker (open space from saloon bulkhead to transom except for enclosed port quarter berth) I can barely reach the rudder quadrant and the clamps are probably another 3-4 feet further aft. Maybe removing the gas tank and rudder quadrant, because the center section is deeper in this IOR narrow and pointy transom, a very skinny person with long arms might be able to reach the clamps. See diagram below. Have any owners with a similar configuration had the exhaust hose replaced? The exhaust hose actually makes a loop high up into this transom section before exiting at the fitting. Any suggestions, tips, tricks on how to remove the hose clamps and hose from the fitting are welcome. Use Courier font for drawing (not to scale): ___ / | /() / | / | ~ ~ ~~ / |___||_ / || =/= || /|| \__ || \||__ || rudder ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Labor of love - Force 10 grill resurrection
I dearly love my small Force 10 log style propane marine grill. Your opinion may differ but I haven't seen one I like better for size, temperature control, and lack of flame out in breeze. I cooked a nice steak on it a few years ago in a tropical storm with 35 knot breeze. Anyway, when I went to use it this weekend to cook Chicken Georges (recipe below), the air mix plenum assembly was almost detached from the grill body. It was originally tack welded to a flange ring which was also tacked to the grill body. It worked but I was worried the assembly, regulator and propane bottle was going to do a MOB thing. This grill has been out of production for several years. I saw one on eBay for $250. :( The Force 10 marine grill entity has been taken over by Kuuma. They make nice grills. Normally I would do the research and by a new grill from Magma, Kuuma, Dickinson, etc. but I really like my old Force 10. So I decided to try to resurrect it. Dis-assembly showed the rotary air/fuel valve completely gone, plugged slots in the burner tube, propane supply orifice partially scaled, in addition to the plenum hanging by a single small tack weld. Well, 6 hours of restoration later, it works again. Tack welds replaced with self tapping pan heads, orifice in the gas supply cleaned out, slots in the burner tube cleaned and a new inner air/fuel rotary mix valve made from a piece of 1 inch stainless railing. Test burn showed 475F on the thermometer on the lid. :) Good for a few more years! Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA Chicken Georges Chicken breast marinated in Worcestershire sauce, grilled Cooked bacon Sliced swiss slice of pineapple Lettuce Mayonnaise Stack on hamburger bun. Eat! Derived from the Gorgeous George and Chicken George burgers from High Alpine mid-mountain restaurant at Snowmass, CO. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Labor of love - Force 10 grill resurrection
The drip pan, for lack of a better term, came sliding out of my force 10 and overboard when we were prepping the boat for haul out. Ooops. I think mine is on it's last legs. Your's sounds like a different BBQ, we never really cook meat on ours .. just use it as a toaster for the most part! Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 6:14 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I dearly love my small Force 10 log style propane marine grill. Your opinion may differ but I haven't seen one I like better for size, temperature control, and lack of flame out in breeze. I cooked a nice steak on it a few years ago in a tropical storm with 35 knot breeze. Anyway, when I went to use it this weekend to cook Chicken Georges (recipe below), the air mix plenum assembly was almost detached from the grill body. It was originally tack welded to a flange ring which was also tacked to the grill body. It worked but I was worried the assembly, regulator and propane bottle was going to do a MOB thing. This grill has been out of production for several years. I saw one on eBay for $250. :( The Force 10 marine grill entity has been taken over by Kuuma. They make nice grills. Normally I would do the research and by a new grill from Magma, Kuuma, Dickinson, etc. but I really like my old Force 10. So I decided to try to resurrect it. Dis-assembly showed the rotary air/fuel valve completely gone, plugged slots in the burner tube, propane supply orifice partially scaled, in addition to the plenum hanging by a single small tack weld. Well, 6 hours of restoration later, it works again. Tack welds replaced with self tapping pan heads, orifice in the gas supply cleaned out, slots in the burner tube cleaned and a new inner air/fuel rotary mix valve made from a piece of 1 inch stainless railing. Test burn showed 475F on the thermometer on the lid. :) Good for a few more years! Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA Chicken Georges Chicken breast marinated in Worcestershire sauce, grilled Cooked bacon Sliced swiss slice of pineapple Lettuce Mayonnaise Stack on hamburger bun. Eat! Derived from the Gorgeous George and Chicken George burgers from High Alpine mid-mountain restaurant at Snowmass, CO. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Exhaust hose replacement for 33-1
A hole saw and an access port will cost about 1% of the yard bill for someone to take a bunch of stuff apart and get back there. Just sayin' Joe Della Barba Coquina -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ahycrace--- via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 5:52 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; David Paine Subject: Re: Stus-List Exhaust hose replacement for 33-1 Guys I Have A 38' MK II with the same problem I want to replace that hose but no way am I going in there. Thinking of going to Brewer yard around here or oldport marine in Newport and hoping I don't have to take out a second mortgage to pay for it. Gary Kolc Liberty David Paine via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: In my 1975 CC 33-1, I was able (many years ago) to get my daughter (when she was 11) to squeeze into that space (twice) once to remove the old exhaust and again to put a new one back on. We did this by removing the engine control panel and both screw-on access ports to reduce claustrophobia. I do recall saying righty tighty repeatedly as she couldn't initially get the hose clamp to tighten. In the worst case, I think you can remove the steering quadrant and then even I could squeeze back there (though I've never tried it). Good luck! David On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 2:19 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I just found something to like about my ton special. I have a deck hatch on the gunwale aft of the cockpit that is big enough to let me get right down into that space behind the engine. I can get to everything in there without performing any circus tricks or cutting anything. I am not familiar enough with the layout of the 33-1 to offer much assistance except this: The reason your exhaust hose loops up before attaching at the tail pipe is to create a siphon block. You should plan the same for your new hose. Best of luck! Burt 1974 CC 33 ton special Portsmouth, RI (still searching for a good name) *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rod Randow via CnC-List *Sent:* Wednesday, November 12, 2014 1:53 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Stus-List Exhaust hose replacement for 33-1 With all the talk about the 3/4 tons and the 33-1, how do you replace the exhaust hose on the 33-1? Have any 33-1 owners had the exhaust hose replaced? I would like to replace the exhaust hose, muffler to transom, on my 33-1. The issue is removing the hose from the tailpipe on the reverse transom. There are two round inspection ports high up on the aft cockpit wall but the distance from each to the hose clamps is probably four feet. Without cutting new lower ports, the approach from the cockpit does not seem to be a option. Cutting a large opening(s) near the cockpit floor is something I would greatly like to avoid. Approaching the hose clamps from the starboard cockpit locker (open space from saloon bulkhead to transom except for enclosed port quarter berth) I can barely reach the rudder quadrant and the clamps are probably another 3-4 feet further aft. Maybe removing the gas tank and rudder quadrant, because the center section is deeper in this IOR narrow and pointy transom, a very skinny person with long arms might be able to reach the clamps. See diagram below. Have any owners with a similar configuration had the exhaust hose replaced? The exhaust hose actually makes a loop high up into this transom section before exiting at the fitting. Any suggestions, tips, tricks on how to remove the hose clamps and hose from the fitting are welcome. Use Courier font for drawing (not to scale): ___ / | /() / | / | ~ ~ ~~ / |___||_ / || =/= || /|| \__ || \||__ || rudder ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Exhaust hose replacement for 33-1
I had to get into the area inside the transom of my 38 for several reasons, during the refit in 2009. Among those reasons were replacing the exhaust hose and the discharge hose for my bilge pumps. I agree that it looked like this stuff was put in before the deck was installed. BTW, Rod, the layout on the 38 is basically identical to the 33-1. My solution to access was to buy two large rectangular access panels - 12 x 15 I think - and use these to replace the 6 round screw in ports that were on the aft wall of the cockpit. Not only do I have good access to hose connection, wiring, the bolts holding the boarding ladder, etc.; I have installed a square of trampoline netting from a beach cat in the bottom of the space inside the transom and have storage space for spare dock lines, the floats for my anchor trip line, and some other infrequently used items that were in the cockpit lazarettes. Rick Brass Sent from my iPad On Nov 12, 2014, at 17:51, ahycrace--- via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Guys I Have A 38' MK II with the same problem I want to replace that hose but no way am I going in there. Thinking of going to Brewer yard around here or oldport marine in Newport and hoping I don't have to take out a second mortgage to pay for it. Gary Kolc Liberty David Paine via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: In my 1975 CC 33-1, I was able (many years ago) to get my daughter (when she was 11) to squeeze into that space (twice) once to remove the old exhaust and again to put a new one back on. We did this by removing the engine control panel and both screw-on access ports to reduce claustrophobia. I do recall saying righty tighty repeatedly as she couldn't initially get the hose clamp to tighten. In the worst case, I think you can remove the steering quadrant and then even I could squeeze back there (though I've never tried it). Good luck! David On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 2:19 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I just found something to like about my ¾ ton special. I have a deck hatch on the gunwale aft of the cockpit that is big enough to let me get right down into that space behind the engine. I can get to everything in there without performing any circus tricks or cutting anything. I am not familiar enough with the layout of the 33-1 to offer much assistance except this: The reason your exhaust hose loops up before attaching at the tail pipe is to create a siphon block. You should plan the same for your new hose. Best of luck! Burt 1974 CC 33 ¾ ton special Portsmouth, RI (still searching for a good name) *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rod Randow via CnC-List *Sent:* Wednesday, November 12, 2014 1:53 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Stus-List Exhaust hose replacement for 33-1 With all the talk about the 3/4 tons and the 33-1, how do you replace the exhaust hose on the 33-1? Have any 33-1 owners had the exhaust hose replaced? I would like to replace the exhaust hose, muffler to transom, on my 33-1. The issue is removing the hose from the “tailpipe” on the reverse transom. There are two round inspection ports high up on the aft cockpit wall but the distance from each to the hose clamps is probably four feet. Without cutting new lower ports, the approach from the cockpit does not seem to be a option. Cutting a large opening(s) near the cockpit floor is something I would greatly like to avoid. Approaching the hose clamps from the starboard cockpit locker (open space from saloon bulkhead to transom except for enclosed port quarter berth) I can barely reach the rudder quadrant and the clamps are probably another 3-4 feet further aft. Maybe removing the gas tank and rudder quadrant, because the center section is deeper in this IOR narrow and pointy transom, a very skinny person with long arms might be able to reach the clamps. See diagram below. Have any owners with a similar configuration had the exhaust hose replaced? The exhaust hose actually makes a loop high up into this transom section before exiting at the fitting. Any suggestions, tips, tricks on how to remove the hose clamps and hose from the fitting are welcome. Use Courier font for drawing (not to scale): ___ / | /() / | / | ~ ~ ~~ / |___||_ / || =/= || /|| \__ || \||__ || rudder ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
Re: Stus-List Labor of love - Force 10 grill resurrection
I had one of those Force 10 log style BBQ's...the whole thing did a MOB in the Northwest Arm, Halifax...all I had left was the mounting bracket on the rail..the 3 little spot welds that held the piece which fastened the Force 10 to the mounting bracket failed...no food on the grill at the time but had friends waiting for supper and kabobs ready for the grill...happened when I went to attach the 1 lb. propane cylinder...weak spot in the design so maybe check those welds too...replaced it with a Kuuma...cooks just as good, uses the same mounting bracket which is more securely attached and not that expensive...I am a happy cooker again Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, *Alianna* Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 7:14 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I dearly love my small Force 10 log style propane marine grill. Your opinion may differ but I haven't seen one I like better for size, temperature control, and lack of flame out in breeze. I cooked a nice steak on it a few years ago in a tropical storm with 35 knot breeze. Anyway, when I went to use it this weekend to cook Chicken Georges (recipe below), the air mix plenum assembly was almost detached from the grill body. It was originally tack welded to a flange ring which was also tacked to the grill body. It worked but I was worried the assembly, regulator and propane bottle was going to do a MOB thing. This grill has been out of production for several years. I saw one on eBay for $250. :( The Force 10 marine grill entity has been taken over by Kuuma. They make nice grills. Normally I would do the research and by a new grill from Magma, Kuuma, Dickinson, etc. but I really like my old Force 10. So I decided to try to resurrect it. Dis-assembly showed the rotary air/fuel valve completely gone, plugged slots in the burner tube, propane supply orifice partially scaled, in addition to the plenum hanging by a single small tack weld. Well, 6 hours of restoration later, it works again. Tack welds replaced with self tapping pan heads, orifice in the gas supply cleaned out, slots in the burner tube cleaned and a new inner air/fuel rotary mix valve made from a piece of 1 inch stainless railing. Test burn showed 475F on the thermometer on the lid. :) Good for a few more years! Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA Chicken Georges Chicken breast marinated in Worcestershire sauce, grilled Cooked bacon Sliced swiss slice of pineapple Lettuce Mayonnaise Stack on hamburger bun. Eat! Derived from the Gorgeous George and Chicken George burgers from High Alpine mid-mountain restaurant at Snowmass, CO. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
