Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

[svpegasus38]

  

I will add another vote for the hammer crimper. I used one during the 
rewire, and windlass install on Pegasus.Doug Mountjoy Pegasus LF38 

T-Mobile. America's First Nationwide 4G Network.


-- Original message--From: Graham Collins via CnC-List Date: Wed, Mar 
25, 2015 17:37To: Josh Muckley;cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Edd Schillay;Subject:Re: 
Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery CablePlus one vote for the 
hammer crimper, that is what I use.
Graham CollinsSecret PlansC&C 35-III #11On 2015-03-25 7:50 PM, Josh 
Muckley via  CnC-List wrote:
  So after reading Peter's link on pbase, I have less
support of my own recommendation for the cheap "hydraulic"crimper for 
which I sent a link.  However, after seeing the price of the crimper on 
   pbase ($275), I more strongly support my suggestion of thehammer 
crimp.  Aside from the suggested crimper all of the othersuggestions 
are reasonable.  I think you are going to find yourself at an impasse   
 regarding cost and quality.  While the quality of the crimperand lugs 
suggested by pbase appear to be of superior quality,you are probably 
going to find that the cost and availability ofthe lugs is restrictive 
and the cost of the crimperprohibitive.  Its a pretty large commitment. 
 Quality lugs for the hammer crimper are readilyavailable if you 
choose to go the cheap way.  As pbase evensaid, that knarly looking 
chrimp still worked.  The crimper wasonly one of many criticisms of 
that crimp.  It is my opinionthat if you employ all of the other pbase 
suggestions but usethe hammer crimper and compatible lugs then you will 
still endup with a quality, long lasting and safe connection.  I've 
donedozens and am proud of all of them.  Josh  On Mar 25, 2015 
5:29 PM, "Josh Muckley"wrote:
  I got one of these and it works well though
probably not to the exacting specs of some others.  TEMCo Hammer Lug 
Crimper Tool 5 Year Warranty 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E1UUVT0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xFYevb11V75DW  For 
a more appropriate crimp you could trysomething like this.  Its 
only $20-25 dollars more.  Since Ialready have the other crimper I 
won't be buying this onebut if I was in your shoes I would spend 
the extra cash.  Hydraulic Wire Terminal Battery Cable Crimper 10   
 Ton with 9 Dies 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DNBWXNU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_1DYevb0TC0ECF  
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons,  MD  On Mar 25, 2015 5:01 PM, "Edd
Schillay via CnC-List" wrote:
  Listers,
Does anyone have a good recommendation for a 
tool  (or tools) for cutting and for crimping terminals onto
  #6 and/or #4 battery cable? 


  All the best,
Edd

Edd M. Schillay 
   Starship EnterpriseC&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B 
   City Island, NY  
 Starship Enterprise's Captain'sLog 
   

  




  



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Re: Stus-List Hatch gasket material for A&H small hatches?

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

Thanks for the quick replies! It sounds like McMaster is the easiest way to
go.
Hammerhead also has the solid round neoprene gasket but don't have online
ordering. Good to have as an option too though.

I think the side hatches are probably 3/8". 1/2" sounds like it'd only be
the large hatches. I'll measure before ordering.

Bob, I did read your hatch post a few weeks ago actually - I'll use that to
guide the cleaning + sealing. However you did the large hatches (fore and
cabin) and I don't think I have those same hatches. The side hatches I sent
pics of are definitely original, but the large hatches look like Lewmar.
They don't have any leak issues so far that I can tell.


On Wed, Mar 25, 2015 at 7:07 PM, Robert Boyer  wrote:

> I replaced my hatch gaskets with 5/8-inch round gasket material and it
> wouldn't fit properly in the grooves in the hatch frame and I couldn't
> close the hatches without breaking something--so, I went back to 1/2-inch
> as it was originally designed.  (I've described this on one of my
> blogposts.)
>
> When the hatch seals age, the rubber gets hard and brittle and no longer
> is elastic enough to make the seal--its not a bad design.  Mine were 30+
> years old when I replaced them.
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
> 1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>
> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
> messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
>
> On Mar 25, 2015, at 9:50 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I know this question came up in 2006 (
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2006-May/002846.html
> ), but that's 9 years ago and the story may have changed since then.
>
> I'm getting to work on a few leaks in our boat, and the galley + head
> hatches (LF38) come first.
>
> The previous thread recommended Clean Seal, or direct from Atkins & Hoyle
> (for the more expensive option). I had trouble finding the part # on Clean
> Seal though. Are those two still the best options?
>
> Here's are some pics of the galley hatch:
> http://svviolethour.com/?attachment_id=181
> http://svviolethour.com/?attachment_id=179
> http://svviolethour.com/?attachment_id=180
>
> The current gasket material actually doesn't look that bad, it just
> doesn't seat well - so unless I'm very careful to cram it in the right
> spots we get leaks. I almost wonder whether it's just the wrong size/shape
> for the hatch?
>
> Would something like the Bomar Hatch gasket material (5/8" in an extruded
> format or 9/16" in round) on Defender possibly work?
>
> http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|6880|2290165&id=1230878
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 LF38 S/V Violet Hour
> Seattle, WA
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Hatch gasket material for A&H small hatches?

[David Paine via CnC-List]

 EDPM smooth surface cord:  http://www.mcmaster.com/#foam-cords/=wgxi0l

On Wed, Mar 25, 2015 at 10:01 PM, David Paine  wrote:

> Patrick,
>
> What you want is:  http://www.mcmaster.com/#foam-cords/=wgxej0
>
> I just bought 1/2" cord for my A&H foredeck hatch.  My friend has A&H side
> ports on his Alberg and he bought the 3/8" cord to fit into the groove.
>
> David
>
> On Wed, Mar 25, 2015 at 9:50 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I know this question came up in 2006 (
>> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2006-May/002846.html
>> ), but that's 9 years ago and the story may have changed since then.
>>
>> I'm getting to work on a few leaks in our boat, and the galley + head
>> hatches (LF38) come first.
>>
>> The previous thread recommended Clean Seal, or direct from Atkins & Hoyle
>> (for the more expensive option). I had trouble finding the part # on Clean
>> Seal though. Are those two still the best options?
>>
>> Here's are some pics of the galley hatch:
>> http://svviolethour.com/?attachment_id=181
>> http://svviolethour.com/?attachment_id=179
>> http://svviolethour.com/?attachment_id=180
>>
>> The current gasket material actually doesn't look that bad, it just
>> doesn't seat well - so unless I'm very careful to cram it in the right
>> spots we get leaks. I almost wonder whether it's just the wrong size/shape
>> for the hatch?
>>
>> Would something like the Bomar Hatch gasket material (5/8" in an extruded
>> format or 9/16" in round) on Defender possibly work?
>>
>> http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|6880|2290165&id=1230878
>>
>> -Patrick
>> 1984 LF38 S/V Violet Hour
>> Seattle, WA
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Hatch gasket material for A&H small hatches?

[robert via CnC-List]

Patrick

Contact this guyhe worked for A&H and now his own company.he 
knows his stuffI got gaskets for all my hatches from him


http://www.hhns.ca/?page_id=27


 Hammerhead Nautical Systems

 * 416-767-0222
 * 1-877-767-0222
 * i...@hhns.ca 


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2015-03-25 10:50 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List wrote:
I know this question came up in 2006 
(http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2006-May/002846.html 
), but that's 9 years ago and the story may have changed since then.


I'm getting to work on a few leaks in our boat, and the galley + head 
hatches (LF38) come first.


The previous thread recommended Clean Seal, or direct from Atkins & 
Hoyle (for the more expensive option). I had trouble finding the part 
# on Clean Seal though. Are those two still the best options?


Here's are some pics of the galley hatch:
http://svviolethour.com/?attachment_id=181
http://svviolethour.com/?attachment_id=179
http://svviolethour.com/?attachment_id=180

The current gasket material actually doesn't look that bad, it just 
doesn't seat well - so unless I'm very careful to cram it in the right 
spots we get leaks. I almost wonder whether it's just the wrong 
size/shape for the hatch?


Would something like the Bomar Hatch gasket material (5/8" in an 
extruded format or 9/16" in round) on Defender possibly work?


http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|6880|2290165&id=1230878 



-Patrick
1984 LF38 S/V Violet Hour
Seattle, WA



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Re: Stus-List Hatch gasket material for A&H small hatches?

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I replaced my hatch gaskets with 5/8-inch round gasket material and it wouldn't 
fit properly in the grooves in the hatch frame and I couldn't close the hatches 
without breaking something--so, I went back to 1/2-inch as it was originally 
designed.  (I've described this on one of my blogposts.)

When the hatch seals age, the rubber gets hard and brittle and no longer is 
elastic enough to make the seal--its not a bad design.  Mine were 30+ years old 
when I replaced them.

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

> On Mar 25, 2015, at 9:50 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I know this question came up in 2006 
> (http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2006-May/002846.html ), 
> but that's 9 years ago and the story may have changed since then. 
> 
> I'm getting to work on a few leaks in our boat, and the galley + head hatches 
> (LF38) come first. 
> 
> The previous thread recommended Clean Seal, or direct from Atkins & Hoyle 
> (for the more expensive option). I had trouble finding the part # on Clean 
> Seal though. Are those two still the best options?  
> 
> Here's are some pics of the galley hatch: 
> http://svviolethour.com/?attachment_id=181
> http://svviolethour.com/?attachment_id=179
> http://svviolethour.com/?attachment_id=180
> 
> The current gasket material actually doesn't look that bad, it just doesn't 
> seat well - so unless I'm very careful to cram it in the right spots we get 
> leaks. I almost wonder whether it's just the wrong size/shape for the hatch? 
> 
> Would something like the Bomar Hatch gasket material (5/8" in an extruded 
> format or 9/16" in round) on Defender possibly work?
> 
> http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|6880|2290165&id=1230878
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 LF38 S/V Violet Hour
> Seattle, WA
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Hatch gasket material for A&H small hatches?

[David Paine via CnC-List]

Patrick,

What you want is:  http://www.mcmaster.com/#foam-cords/=wgxej0

I just bought 1/2" cord for my A&H foredeck hatch.  My friend has A&H side
ports on his Alberg and he bought the 3/8" cord to fit into the groove.

David

On Wed, Mar 25, 2015 at 9:50 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I know this question came up in 2006 (
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2006-May/002846.html
> ), but that's 9 years ago and the story may have changed since then.
>
> I'm getting to work on a few leaks in our boat, and the galley + head
> hatches (LF38) come first.
>
> The previous thread recommended Clean Seal, or direct from Atkins & Hoyle
> (for the more expensive option). I had trouble finding the part # on Clean
> Seal though. Are those two still the best options?
>
> Here's are some pics of the galley hatch:
> http://svviolethour.com/?attachment_id=181
> http://svviolethour.com/?attachment_id=179
> http://svviolethour.com/?attachment_id=180
>
> The current gasket material actually doesn't look that bad, it just
> doesn't seat well - so unless I'm very careful to cram it in the right
> spots we get leaks. I almost wonder whether it's just the wrong size/shape
> for the hatch?
>
> Would something like the Bomar Hatch gasket material (5/8" in an extruded
> format or 9/16" in round) on Defender possibly work?
>
> http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|6880|2290165&id=1230878
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 LF38 S/V Violet Hour
> Seattle, WA
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Spot sat phone

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Even Ben Ellison at Panbo hasn’t reviewed it yet.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 25, 2015, at 6:09 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Does anyone have experience with the Spot sat phone?  Its almost affordable 
> at $500.
> 
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis

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Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

The Greenlee compound-action crimper is the one I’ve got; the one that normally 
goes for about $700.  And I will only use that for high-current cabling; the 
hammer-type crimpers don’t do near as good a job.  Any small resistance in a 
high-current cable will produce an incredible amount of heat, so the crimps are 
extremely important to have right.

Also, only use the top-notch seamless tinned lugs with closed ends; they cost a 
lot, but are worth it.  And heat-shrink the lugs after crimping.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 25, 2015, at 6:57 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Yup ... those hydraulic crimpers don’t get much traction from Maine Sail in 
> the link I posted previously. I think some of the large ‘offshore’ manual 
> crimpers on ebay, etc. fall into the same category.
>  
> By the way I was looking at some terminal lugs at my local NAPA distributor 
> the other day  . I believe they were the Magnalug connectors, a division 
> of Grote, which is a brand they carry. What a difference in quality over the 
> standard, pressed, seamed, etc. lugs you find just about everywhere 
> (including Ancor marine terminals). Didn’t go as far as ask on pricing 
> though. Don’t know if NAPA in the US carries these or not.
>  
> Luckily I have a nephew and brother-in-law who are electricians, with a lot 
> of Marine experience, and they have a set of proper crimpers ... Green Lee or 
> something similar. But they come up used for sale on eBay every so often. My 
> local mom-and-pop marine store does up cables as well ... with the proper 
> crimper. But they have the cheap terminal lugs.
>  
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> Cygnet
> C&C 27 MkIII

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Stus-List Hatch gasket material for A&H small hatches?

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

I know this question came up in 2006 (
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2006-May/002846.html ),
but that's 9 years ago and the story may have changed since then.

I'm getting to work on a few leaks in our boat, and the galley + head
hatches (LF38) come first.

The previous thread recommended Clean Seal, or direct from Atkins & Hoyle
(for the more expensive option). I had trouble finding the part # on Clean
Seal though. Are those two still the best options?

Here's are some pics of the galley hatch:
http://svviolethour.com/?attachment_id=181
http://svviolethour.com/?attachment_id=179
http://svviolethour.com/?attachment_id=180

The current gasket material actually doesn't look that bad, it just doesn't
seat well - so unless I'm very careful to cram it in the right spots we get
leaks. I almost wonder whether it's just the wrong size/shape for the
hatch?

Would something like the Bomar Hatch gasket material (5/8" in an extruded
format or 9/16" in round) on Defender possibly work?

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|6880|2290165&id=1230878

-Patrick
1984 LF38 S/V Violet Hour
Seattle, WA
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Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Plus one vote for the hammer crimper, that is what I use.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-03-25 7:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


So after reading Peter's link on pbase, I have less support of my own 
recommendation for the cheap "hydraulic" crimper for which I sent a link.


However, after seeing the price of the crimper on pbase ($275), I more 
strongly support my suggestion of the hammer crimp.  Aside from the 
suggested crimper all of the other suggestions are reasonable.


I think you are going to find yourself at an impasse regarding cost 
and quality.  While the quality of the crimper and lugs suggested by 
pbase appear to be of superior quality, you are probably going to find 
that the cost and availability of the lugs is restrictive and the cost 
of the crimper prohibitive.  Its a pretty large commitment.


Quality lugs for the hammer crimper are readily available if you 
choose to go the cheap way.  As pbase even said, that knarly looking 
chrimp still worked.  The crimper was only one of many criticisms of 
that crimp.  It is my opinion that if you employ all of the other 
pbase suggestions but use the hammer crimper and compatible lugs then 
you will still end up with a quality, long lasting and safe 
connection.  I've done dozens and am proud of all of them.


Josh

On Mar 25, 2015 5:29 PM, "Josh Muckley" > wrote:


I got one of these and it works well though probably not to the
exacting specs of some others.

TEMCo Hammer Lug Crimper Tool 5 Year Warranty
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E1UUVT0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xFYevb11V75DW

For a more appropriate crimp you could try something like this. 
Its only $20-25 dollars more.  Since I already have the other

crimper I won't be buying this one but if I was in your shoes I
would spend the extra cash.

Hydraulic Wire Terminal Battery Cable Crimper 10 Ton with 9 Dies
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DNBWXNU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_1DYevb0TC0ECF

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons,  MD

On Mar 25, 2015 5:01 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Listers,

Does anyone have a good recommendation for a tool (or tools)
for cutting and for crimping terminals onto #6 and/or #4
battery cable?


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log













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Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Yup ... those hydraulic crimpers don’t get much traction from Maine Sail in the 
link I posted previously. I think some of the large ‘offshore’ manual crimpers 
on ebay, etc. fall into the same category.

By the way I was looking at some terminal lugs at my local NAPA distributor the 
other day  . I believe they were the Magnalug connectors, a division of 
Grote, which is a brand they carry. What a difference in quality over the 
standard, pressed, seamed, etc. lugs you find just about everywhere (including 
Ancor marine terminals). Didn’t go as far as ask on pricing though. Don’t know 
if NAPA in the US carries these or not.

Luckily I have a nephew and brother-in-law who are electricians, with a lot of 
Marine experience, and they have a set of proper crimpers ... Green Lee or 
something similar. But they come up used for sale on eBay every so often. My 
local mom-and-pop marine store does up cables as well ... with the proper 
crimper. But they have the cheap terminal lugs. 

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2015 3:50 PM
To: C&C List ; Edd Schillay 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

So after reading Peter's link on pbase, I have less support of my own 
recommendation for the cheap "hydraulic" crimper for which I sent a link.

However, after seeing the price of the crimper on pbase ($275), I more strongly 
support my suggestion of the hammer crimp.  Aside from the suggested crimper 
all of the other suggestions are reasonable.

I think you are going to find yourself at an impasse regarding cost and 
quality.  While the quality of the crimper and lugs suggested by pbase appear 
to be of superior quality, you are probably going to find that the cost and 
availability of the lugs is restrictive and the cost of the crimper 
prohibitive.  Its a pretty large commitment.

Quality lugs for the hammer crimper are readily available if you choose to go 
the cheap way.  As pbase even said, that knarly looking chrimp still worked.  
The crimper was only one of many criticisms of that crimp.  It is my opinion 
that if you employ all of the other pbase suggestions but use the hammer 
crimper and compatible lugs then you will still end up with a quality, long 
lasting and safe connection.  I've done dozens and am proud of all of them.

Josh

On Mar 25, 2015 5:29 PM, "Josh Muckley"  wrote:

  I got one of these and it works well though probably not to the exacting 
specs of some others.

  TEMCo Hammer Lug Crimper Tool 5 Year Warranty 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E1UUVT0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xFYevb11V75DW

  For a more appropriate crimp you could try something like this.  Its only 
$20-25 dollars more.  Since I already have the other crimper I won't be buying 
this one but if I was in your shoes I would spend the extra cash.

  Hydraulic Wire Terminal Battery Cable Crimper 10 Ton with 9 Dies 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DNBWXNU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_1DYevb0TC0ECF

  Josh Muckley
  S/V Sea Hawk
  1989 C&C 37+
  Solomons,  MD

  On Mar 25, 2015 5:01 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Listers, 

Does anyone have a good recommendation for a tool (or tools) for cutting 
and for crimping terminals onto #6 and/or #4 battery cable? 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log


 












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Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

There’s the listserv spirit!

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2015 4:01 PM
To: Dennis C. ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

Edd — I have one of the big crimpers, and could do cables for you.  I just need 
to know the gauge, the length stud to stud, and the stud sizes for the lugs.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 25, 2015, at 4:32 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:


  You ain't gonna like my answer.  My buddy and I use one of these:

  
http://www.globalelectricalsupply.com/Mechanical-Single-Indent-Heavy-Duty-Lug-Crimper-p/m-500.htm


  I'm thinking you don't want to pop $700 for one.  :)


  There are imported version for a lot less.


  Dennis C.





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Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Hopefully...

West Marine in Solomons, MD was well intentioned by suggesting that I use
their crimper.  I looked at it and found that it was a nicropress swaging
tool.  I tried one crimp and much to my disappointment it made huge mess of
the lug.  If you find a loaner tool just make sure that it is the correct
tool.  The hammer crimp is many times better.

Josh
On Mar 25, 2015 7:10 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Your local chandlery may let you use one.
>
> Joel
>
> On Wednesday, March 25, 2015, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Edd -- I have one of the big crimpers, and could do cables for you.  I
>> just need to know the gauge, the length stud to stud, and the stud sizes
>> for the lugs.
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>
>> On Mar 25, 2015, at 4:32 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> You ain't gonna like my answer.  My buddy and I use one of these:
>>
>>
>> http://www.globalelectricalsupply.com/Mechanical-Single-Indent-Heavy-Duty-Lug-Crimper-p/m-500.htm
>>
>> I'm thinking you don't want to pop $700 for one.  :)
>>
>> There are imported version for a lot less.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Your local chandlery may let you use one.

Joel

On Wednesday, March 25, 2015, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Edd — I have one of the big crimpers, and could do cables for you.  I just
> need to know the gauge, the length stud to stud, and the stud sizes for the
> lugs.
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Mar 25, 2015, at 4:32 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  > wrote:
>
> You ain't gonna like my answer.  My buddy and I use one of these:
>
>
> http://www.globalelectricalsupply.com/Mechanical-Single-Indent-Heavy-Duty-Lug-Crimper-p/m-500.htm
>
> I'm thinking you don't want to pop $700 for one.  :)
>
> There are imported version for a lot less.
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Spot sat phone

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Does anyone have experience with the Spot sat phone?  Its almost affordable
at $500.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Edd — I have one of the big crimpers, and could do cables for you.  I just need 
to know the gauge, the length stud to stud, and the stud sizes for the lugs.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 25, 2015, at 4:32 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

> You ain't gonna like my answer.  My buddy and I use one of these:
> 
> http://www.globalelectricalsupply.com/Mechanical-Single-Indent-Heavy-Duty-Lug-Crimper-p/m-500.htm
> 
> I'm thinking you don't want to pop $700 for one.  :)
> 
> There are imported version for a lot less.
> 
> Dennis C.

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Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

So after reading Peter's link on pbase, I have less support of my own
recommendation for the cheap "hydraulic" crimper for which I sent a link.

However, after seeing the price of the crimper on pbase ($275), I more
strongly support my suggestion of the hammer crimp.  Aside from the
suggested crimper all of the other suggestions are reasonable.

I think you are going to find yourself at an impasse regarding cost and
quality.  While the quality of the crimper and lugs suggested by pbase
appear to be of superior quality, you are probably going to find that the
cost and availability of the lugs is restrictive and the cost of the
crimper prohibitive.  Its a pretty large commitment.

Quality lugs for the hammer crimper are readily available if you choose to
go the cheap way.  As pbase even said, that knarly looking chrimp still
worked.  The crimper was only one of many criticisms of that crimp.  It is
my opinion that if you employ all of the other pbase suggestions but use
the hammer crimper and compatible lugs then you will still end up with a
quality, long lasting and safe connection.  I've done dozens and am proud
of all of them.

Josh
On Mar 25, 2015 5:29 PM, "Josh Muckley"  wrote:

> I got one of these and it works well though probably not to the exacting
> specs of some others.
>
> TEMCo Hammer Lug Crimper Tool 5 Year Warranty
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E1UUVT0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xFYevb11V75DW
>
> For a more appropriate crimp you could try something like this.  Its only
> $20-25 dollars more.  Since I already have the other crimper I won't be
> buying this one but if I was in your shoes I would spend the extra cash.
>
> Hydraulic Wire Terminal Battery Cable Crimper 10 Ton with 9 Dies
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DNBWXNU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_1DYevb0TC0ECF
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons,  MD
> On Mar 25, 2015 5:01 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> Does anyone have a good recommendation for a tool (or tools) for cutting
>> and for crimping terminals onto #6 and/or #4 battery cable?
>>
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List Rigging set-up

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Alan,

youtube.com Search C&C 35 Rigging.  Should be one that is 4+ minutes and Pt
2 that is about 3 minutes.

Joel

On Wednesday, March 25, 2015, Alan Bergen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Where's the video, Joel?
>
> All,
>
> In order to help my race crew adjust to my boat, I made 2 short videos
> showing the running rigging and electronics that are on YouTube under C&C
> 35 Rigging.  If you are bored, take a look.
>
> What I've done may not be right for anyone else, but it might give you
> ideas of what to do or not do, and if you have a 35/3, you can see how
> different our boats are.  I know some have a different mast, some have
> hydraulic vangs, some lack a second jib track and reaching strut, etc.
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Rigging set-up

[Alan Bergen via CnC-List]

Where's the video, Joel? 

All, 

In order to help my race crew adjust to my boat, I made 2 short videos showing 
the running rigging and electronics that are on YouTube under C&C 35 Rigging. 
If you are bored, take a look. 

What I've done may not be right for anyone else, but it might give you ideas of 
what to do or not do, and if you have a 35/3, you can see how different our 
boats are. I know some have a different mast, some have hydraulic vangs, some 
lack a second jib track and reaching strut, etc. 

Joel 
35/3 
Annapolis 
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Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Edd,

You can order custom battery cables to size and length with tinned cable on
eBay.  4 day delivery.  Never used them.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Mar 25, 2015 at 4:00 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Does anyone have a good recommendation for a tool (or tools) for cutting
> and for crimping terminals onto #6 and/or #4 battery cable?
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

You ain't gonna like my answer.  My buddy and I use one of these:

http://www.globalelectricalsupply.com/Mechanical-Single-Indent-Heavy-Duty-Lug-Crimper-p/m-500.htm

I'm thinking you don't want to pop $700 for one.  :)

There are imported version for a lot less.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Mar 25, 2015 at 4:00 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Does anyone have a good recommendation for a tool (or tools) for cutting
> and for crimping terminals onto #6 and/or #4 battery cable?
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I got one of these and it works well though probably not to the exacting
specs of some others.

TEMCo Hammer Lug Crimper Tool 5 Year Warranty
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E1UUVT0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xFYevb11V75DW

For a more appropriate crimp you could try something like this.  Its only
$20-25 dollars more.  Since I already have the other crimper I won't be
buying this one but if I was in your shoes I would spend the extra cash.

Hydraulic Wire Terminal Battery Cable Crimper 10 Ton with 9 Dies
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DNBWXNU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_1DYevb0TC0ECF

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons,  MD
On Mar 25, 2015 5:01 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Does anyone have a good recommendation for a tool (or tools) for cutting
> and for crimping terminals onto #6 and/or #4 battery cable?
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I have big electricians crimpers. They look like bolt cutters. Electric
supply houses have them. 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2015 5:01 PM
To: C&C List
Subject: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

 

Listers,

 

Does anyone have a good recommendation for a tool (or tools) for cutting and
for crimping terminals onto #6 and/or #4 battery cable? 

 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 











 






 

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Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Does this help?

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_cables&page=1

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII

From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2015 2:00 PM
To: C&C List 
Subject: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

Listers, 

Does anyone have a good recommendation for a tool (or tools) for cutting and 
for crimping terminals onto #6 and/or #4 battery cable? 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log


 














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Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

Does anyone have a good recommendation for a tool (or tools) for cutting and 
for crimping terminals onto #6 and/or #4 battery cable? 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













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Re: Stus-List Rod rigging replacement

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

> What has been the experience with converting rod standing rigging to a 
> wire-based system?

I replaced Calypso's fore and back stays with Dyform wire and Norseman type 
fittings back in 1999.  So far all is well.  The same year I replaced most of 
the stays with new rod and terminals.  I used a local rigging shop where I 
could deliver the old rod as patterns, picked up the new rod and installed the 
new myself.

If I needed to replace the rod today I would not hesitate to use Dyform or 
similar performance wire rigging.  I would spend a little time deciding if I 
wanted Norseman fittings or use a commercial swaging process.  I believe they 
have similar reliability but the Norseman fittings can be changed at sea with 
common tools.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mania 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2015 12:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Rod rigging replacement

As Navtec parts and material get harder to find and more expensive, are any 
other vendors stepping in to fill the gap for rod rigging components?

What has been the experience with converting rod standing rigging to a 
wire-based system?

--
Bill Mania

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Stus-List Rod rigging replacement

[Bill Mania via CnC-List]

As Navtec parts and material get harder to find and more expensive, are
any other vendors stepping in to fill the gap for rod rigging
components?

What has been the experience with converting rod standing rigging to a
wire-based system?

-- 
Bill Mania

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Re: Stus-List C&C 24SK

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

There was a C&C SR 25 with a lifting keel.

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/reviews/revsr25.htm

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/brochures/25sr/25srb1p03.jpg

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_H2jDPy2O55I/TR9fytMVmqI/AWc/HGTw2j4xXW8/s1600/Ruckus%2Bunder%2Bspin%2Boff%2Bwave.jpg

Perhaps they are referring to that?

Ken H.

On 25 March 2015 at 11:37, Jim Watts via CnC-List 
wrote:

>
> There is a question on Sailing Anarchy about a shoal-draft C&C 24. I have
> never seen mention of one, there is no reference in the tech. information
> or in the C&C brochures. Anyone? Bueller?
>
> http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=164629
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
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>
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Stus-List bilge pump switch

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Monty,

I'm wondering how old your switch is.  Mine was installed last year, they
must have changed the software as it does suck the water down as far as the
pump can get it.  Basically the switch stays "ON" for a period of time
after water level gets below the the sensor.

Mine is installed in between the bolts and the fitment is fine.

I can send you pictures if you want to see how it came together..


-Francois Rivard
1990 34 + "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA



From: Monty Schumpert 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List bilge pump switch
Message-ID:


Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I've been using the Water Witch for several years -- the bilge on the 34+
is narrow with keel bolt nuts in the bottom which makes the float switch
sit too high IMHO. I can't get all the way to the bottom with the Water
Witch but can retain less water than with a float switch. I also have one
in the shower sump to control the shower pump.

Monty
Scandia
1991 C&C 34+
Annapolis, MD
Regards___

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Stus-List Rigging set-up

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

All,

In order to help my race crew adjust to my boat, I made 2 short videos
showing the running rigging and electronics that are on YouTube under C&C
35 Rigging.  If you are bored, take a look.

What I've done may not be right for anyone else, but it might give you
ideas of what to do or not do, and if you have a 35/3, you can see how
different our boats are.  I know some have a different mast, some have
hydraulic vangs, some lack a second jib track and reaching strut, etc.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37plus Draft

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Danny,

 

I have a 37+ with a 7'3" draft which I keep in Bristol, RI.  So far it has
been no problem in Narragansett Bay, Block Island Cuttyhunk, Vineyard Haven
& Edgartown.  I sail with a friend in a J/30 out of Red Brook Harbor.
That's a little tight and if I brought my boat there, I'd look for either a
really calm, clear day and/or favorable tide.  

 

As far as the deep keel, the boat is extremely stable and rides well in
rough water.  With 10' waves going around Cape May, it did very well.

 

Good luck on your choice.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 



 

From: Danny Haughey [mailto:djhaug...@juno.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2015 10:45 AM
To: paradigmat...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 37plus Draft

 

Hi Guys,

 

I've got a 37plus on my radar but the draft is 7'-3"  I think that may be a
bit too deep, I don't think I'd be able to stay where I kept the Viking and
I do like that location.  I also think it may limit some harbors out on the
the islands in and around buzzard's bay...

 

Would anyone have any comments about the deep draft and it limitations
around Cape Cod, south coast and the islands?

 

Danny

Boat Shopper

South Coast Massachusetts

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Re: Stus-List Defender's Warehouse Sale (Damian Greene)

[Damian Greene via CnC-List]

+1 on the other feedback. Well worth the visit. When I lived in CT, that was a 
day off work for me, and the official beginning of the sailing season. Always 
bottom paint, but also foul weather gear, PFDs, flares, electronics, got a good 
deal on a RIB and outboard... Damian GreeneC&C 34 GHOSTBass Harbor, Maine___

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Re: Stus-List C&C 37plus Draft

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I was in Westport Point at FL Tripps

-- Original Message --
From: "Fair, Mike" 
To: Danny Haughey , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Subject: RE: Stus-List  C&C 37plus Draft
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2015 15:15:01 +


I draw 6’ 2”  and go pretty much everywhere in the islands and 
buzzards bay. Westport is narrow but you can get in. Not much available on the 
South Cape area but Stage Harbor, Falmouth Green Pond, Hyannis should be 
accessible.
Quisset, Red Brook, Marion, Onset, Mattpoisett, New Bedford, Padanaram all can 
accommodate you.
 
Robinson’s Hole is risky. Don’t ask.
 
Where are you now?
 
Mike 
 
Cio Cio San
Finnyacht 351 
Padanaram
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
 Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2015 10:45 AM
 To: paradigmat...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List C&C 37plus Draft
 
Hi Guys,
 
I've got a 37plus on my radar but the draft is 7'-3"  I think that may be a bit 
too deep, I don't think I'd be able to stay where I kept the Viking and I do 
like that location.  I also think it may limit some harbors out on the the 
islands in and around buzzard's bay...
 
Would anyone have any comments about the deep draft and it limitations around 
Cape Cod, south coast and the islands?
 
Danny
Boat Shopper
South Coast Massachusetts
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37plus Draft

[Fair, Mike via CnC-List]

I draw 6' 2"  and go pretty much everywhere in the islands and buzzards bay. 
Westport is narrow but you can get in. Not much available on the South Cape 
area but Stage Harbor, Falmouth Green Pond, Hyannis should be accessible.
Quisset, Red Brook, Marion, Onset, Mattpoisett, New Bedford, Padanaram all can 
accommodate you.

Robinson's Hole is risky. Don't ask.

Where are you now?

Mike

Cio Cio San
Finnyacht 351
Padanaram

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2015 10:45 AM
To: paradigmat...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 37plus Draft

Hi Guys,

I've got a 37plus on my radar but the draft is 7'-3"  I think that may be a bit 
too deep, I don't think I'd be able to stay where I kept the Viking and I do 
like that location.  I also think it may limit some harbors out on the the 
islands in and around buzzard's bay...

Would anyone have any comments about the deep draft and it limitations around 
Cape Cod, south coast and the islands?

Danny
Boat Shopper
South Coast Massachusetts
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Stus-List C&C 37plus Draft

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Guys, I've got a 37plus on my radar but the draft is 7'-3"  I think that may 
be a bit too deep, I don't think I'd be able to stay where I kept the Viking 
and I do like that location.  I also think it may limit some harbors out on the 
the islands in and around buzzard's bay... Would anyone have any comments about 
the deep draft and it limitations around Cape Cod, south coast and the islands? 
DannyBoat ShopperSouth Coast Massachusetts___

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Stus-List C&C 24SK

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

There is a question on Sailing Anarchy about a shoal-draft C&C 24. I have
never seen mention of one, there is no reference in the tech. information
or in the C&C brochures. Anyone? Bueller?

http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=164629

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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