Stus-List winter condensation

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

This winter with weather going form warm and humid to cold and back has caused 
more condensation than the last 10 winters combined. 
Anyone have any good ideas to get rid of it? Right now I am thinking about 
getting calcium chloride (the ingredient in Damp-Rid) and putting out a bucket 
of it plus maybe turning the heat up. I usually have it set about 45-50 degrees 
or so if I am not down there doing something. 
Joe
Coquina
Cabin temp 51 degrees right now: http://aprs.fi/telemetry/a/N3HGB-5


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Stus-List Engine acoustic insulation, incl. sources in Canada?

[Dave Syer via CnC-List]

Hi All,

Have searched the archives and found some great discussion on insulation
installation practices.  Several folks replaced this material in 2014.
Funny remark on the existing material being "both lily and dusty at the
same time.   Mine is making a mess.

Any particularly good materials to recommend?
Any suggestions as to sources in Canada?  (Toronto specifically - film
industry gen set people would be ideal...)

Thanks, Dave
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Re: Stus-List Engine acoustic insulation, incl. sources in Canada?

[Don Newman via CnC-List]

HMP has some good reasonably priced material. 
I have left overs if you are near Hamilton. 

Don Newman
905 547 1750

> On Jan 5, 2016, at 11:21 AM, Dave Syer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
>  
> Have searched the archives and found some great discussion on insulation 
> installation practices.  Several folks replaced this material in 2014.  Funny 
> remark on the existing material being "both lily and dusty at the same time.  
>  Mine is making a mess.
>  
> Any particularly good materials to recommend?
> Any suggestions as to sources in Canada?  (Toronto specifically - film 
> industry gen set people would be ideal...)
>  
> Thanks, Dave
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 

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Re: Stus-List Engine acoustic insulation, incl. sources in Canada?

[Tim Sippel via CnC-List]

I just bought a roll from HMP .. haven’t installed yet.

Tim
C 33 mkii.

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Syer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2016 11:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Syer
Subject: Stus-List Engine acoustic insulation, incl. sources in Canada?

Hi All,

Have searched the archives and found some great discussion on insulation 
installation practices.  Several folks replaced this material in 2014.  Funny 
remark on the existing material being "both lily and dusty at the same time.   
Mine is making a mess.

Any particularly good materials to recommend?
Any suggestions as to sources in Canada?  (Toronto specifically - film industry 
gen set people would be ideal...)

Thanks, Dave










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Re: Stus-List winter condensation

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Only issue is the humidifier is essentially an air conditioner. If I don’t heat 
the boat up to maybe 65 degrees it isn’t going to be enough colder than the 
surrounding air to condense much and running a heater set to 65 and a 
dehumidifier will be quite the electric bill. I set the heat to 70 one winter 
and my wife was not amused at the $80/month electric bill. Are you sure a 
dehumidifier would work at 40-45 degrees? I was thinking maybe 55 tops for heat 
when I am not there.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2016 12:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: svpegasu...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List winter condensation


I use a basement dehumidifier. Being a live aboard mine drains to the bilge. 
But you could put it on the galley counter and drain it into the galley sink. I 
have mine set to 45%.



Doug Mountjoy

svPegasus

LF38

just west of Ballard, WA.





-- Original message--

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List

Date: Tue, Jan 5, 2016 09:11

To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com';

Cc: Della Barba, Joe;

Subject:Stus-List winter condensation



This winter with weather going form warm and humid to cold and back has caused 
more condensation than the last 10 winters !

 combined. Anyone have any good ideas to get rid of it? Right now I am thinking 
about getting calcium chloride (the ingredient in Damp-Rid) and putting out a 
bucket of it plus maybe turning the heat up. I usually have it set about 45-50 
degrees or so if I am not down there doing something. JoeCoquinaCabin temp 51 
degrees right now: 
http://aprs.fi/telemetry/a/N3HGB-5___Email
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Re: Stus-List C Nameplate - Now printing dwg file problem

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Steve,

I’m surprised Edson would not sell you the idler less sheaves (but with the 
uprights installed, which is the tricky part and requires the use of a press 
and special rivets) but I haven’t worked there for several years and it is 
possible they’ve had a “policy” change.  In my tenure at Edson, we couldn’t 
sell just the steel or aluminum plate with no uprights,  but could sell the 
steel plate idler assembly minus the sheaves, a handy alternative when the only 
flaw in the assembly was a rusty, corroded mild steel plate.   There’s not much 
you can screw up installing the sheaves on the uprights… two cotter pins and 
you’re done.  Plus you get the new stainless steel axles to replace the bronze 
pins, which is a common wear item.

 

Even with a Port Supply account, I would compare price on the chain/wire 
assembly with Defender Industries as they tend to be more aggressive with their 
retail pricing structure.

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1975 25 Mk 1

 

S/V Orion

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of S Thomas via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 5, 2016 1:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: S Thomas 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C Nameplate - Now printing dwg file problem

 

Chuck, 

I called Edson, and while the rep (Gene?) I talked to was quite 
pleasant to talk to, in the end he was no help at all. 

They have a steel plate, but they refuse to sell it or any other naked plate to 
me. Change in policy he said. 

Fear of insurance companies, or Edson's reputation if a customer install should 
fail, was the reasoning he thought, but he said it was not his decision.  

Edson will only sell complete assemblies, and only at their suggested retail. 

Frustrating!!!

Also they have new 2016 prices. 

He strongly recommends and wants to sell me a new chain and cable for US$ 
271.00, but he did confirm that they do use Port Supply as a distributor, which 
is good for me because I know someone who has a wholesale number. 

 

Anyway, thanks for trying to help.

 

Best,

Steve Thomas

C MKI

C MKIII

- Original Message - 

From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List   

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Chuck Gilchrest   

Sent: Monday, January 04, 2016 10:35

Subject: Re: Stus-List C Nameplate - Now printing dwg file problem

 

Steve,

Just 2 cents from a former Edsonite (10+ years).  When replacing the Idler 
plate and uprights on a “vintage” crossed wire idler, the original plates were 
made of painted mild steel with bronze sheave uprights, using a pressed- in 
oversize pop rivets holding the uprights to the plate, thus allowing sheave 
assemblies to pivot and lock in place using a locking bolt/ nut and a groove 
cut in the plate to let the upright swing through an arc for proper alignment.  
 The placement of the pivot holes (which also are the holes the cable pass 
through) is critical relative to the sprocket inside the pedestal to allow the 
chain to cross inside the pedestal without rubbing on itself. 

 

The new cross wire idler assemblies are now made of cast aluminum with 
stainless uprights but have the same physical dimensions with one exception- 
thickness of the plate, which can affect the cable alignment especially if your 
radial wheel is close by to the idler.  Edson does sell this Idler plate 
without sheaves, but the uprights are pre-installed at the factory.  I’d call 
the factory 508-995-9711 and ask for pricing for a 774AL-4AL less sheaves.   
They may even have a few mild steel plates banging around the building as well. 
 Unless you’re buying a new idler assembly, you’ll need to have a means of 
pressing the idler uprights onto a new plate in such a fashion that the upright 
will pivot to assure proper alignment with the radial wheel on the rudder shaft.

 

In the event you make your own plate, make sure to change out the bronze sheave 
pins with stainless pins and check the sheave bushing/pin runout to make sure 
the sheaves are reusable.  I would advise not making an aluminum plate if you 
plan to re-use the bronze (pot metal) uprights for obvious reasons.

This is also a really good time to replace your chain and wire cables since 
everything will be apart.  

 

While this doesn’t necessarily help with the CAD issue, it may shed some light 
on the reason for the cost of the part, considering the engineering to make it 
work right out of the box.

Best,

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1975 25 Mk 1

Orion

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram MA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 4, 2016 10:01 AM
To: C List  >
Cc: Josh Muckley  >
Subject: Re: Stus-List C Nameplate - Now printing dwg file problem

 

Building off 

Re: Stus-List winter condensation

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi Joe
We are running a dehumidifier about 10 hrs a day.  Really dried things up and 
is very comfortable. 34F outside, 64F inside and climbing.  We have it set to 
pull it down to 50 and shut off.  You can set them up to pump into the bilge or 
sink if you choose. 
Got this one at home depot. 
Cheers
Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA
> On Jan 5, 2016, at 9:10 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> This winter with weather going form warm and humid to cold and back has 
> caused more condensation than the last 10 winters combined. 
> Anyone have any good ideas to get rid of it? Right now I am thinking about 
> getting calcium chloride (the ingredient in Damp-Rid) and putting out a 
> bucket of it plus maybe turning the heat up. I usually have it set about 
> 45-50 degrees or so if I am not down there doing something. 
> Joe
> Coquina
> Cabin temp 51 degrees right now: http://aprs.fi/telemetry/a/N3HGB-5
> 
> 
> ___
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> 


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Re: Stus-List winter condensation

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I use 2 West Marine (Caframo) turbo fan air dryer heaters and a day/night
solar vent in the head overhead.  Very little issue with mold or mildew.

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--air-dryer-with-fan-dehumidifier-120v-ac--7867518

Used to have a full blown dehumidifier on board draining to sink but find
the turbo heaters much easier to deal with.  The dehumidifier simply
weighed too much.  Caused back problems taking it on/off the boat.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 11:10 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> This winter with weather going form warm and humid to cold and back has
> caused more condensation than the last 10 winters combined.
> Anyone have any good ideas to get rid of it? Right now I am thinking about
> getting calcium chloride (the ingredient in Damp-Rid) and putting out a
> bucket of it plus maybe turning the heat up. I usually have it set about
> 45-50 degrees or so if I am not down there doing something.
> Joe
> Coquina
> Cabin temp 51 degrees right now: http://aprs.fi/telemetry/a/N3HGB-5
>
>
> ___
>
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C Nameplate - Now printing dwg file problem

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Chuck, 
I called Edson, and while the rep (Gene?) I talked to was quite 
pleasant to talk to, in the end he was no help at all. 
They have a steel plate, but they refuse to sell it or any other naked plate to 
me. Change in policy he said. 
Fear of insurance companies, or Edson's reputation if a customer install should 
fail, was the reasoning he thought, but he said it was not his decision.  
Edson will only sell complete assemblies, and only at their suggested retail. 
Frustrating!!!
Also they have new 2016 prices. 
He strongly recommends and wants to sell me a new chain and cable for US$ 
271.00, but he did confirm that they do use Port Supply as a distributor, which 
is good for me because I know someone who has a wholesale number. 

Anyway, thanks for trying to help.

Best,
Steve Thomas
C MKI
C MKIII
  - Original Message - 
  From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
  Sent: Monday, January 04, 2016 10:35
  Subject: Re: Stus-List C Nameplate - Now printing dwg file problem


  Steve,

  Just 2 cents from a former Edsonite (10+ years).  When replacing the Idler 
plate and uprights on a “vintage” crossed wire idler, the original plates were 
made of painted mild steel with bronze sheave uprights, using a pressed- in 
oversize pop rivets holding the uprights to the plate, thus allowing sheave 
assemblies to pivot and lock in place using a locking bolt/ nut and a groove 
cut in the plate to let the upright swing through an arc for proper alignment.  
 The placement of the pivot holes (which also are the holes the cable pass 
through) is critical relative to the sprocket inside the pedestal to allow the 
chain to cross inside the pedestal without rubbing on itself. 

   

  The new cross wire idler assemblies are now made of cast aluminum with 
stainless uprights but have the same physical dimensions with one exception- 
thickness of the plate, which can affect the cable alignment especially if your 
radial wheel is close by to the idler.  Edson does sell this Idler plate 
without sheaves, but the uprights are pre-installed at the factory.  I’d call 
the factory 508-995-9711 and ask for pricing for a 774AL-4AL less sheaves.   
They may even have a few mild steel plates banging around the building as well. 
 Unless you’re buying a new idler assembly, you’ll need to have a means of 
pressing the idler uprights onto a new plate in such a fashion that the upright 
will pivot to assure proper alignment with the radial wheel on the rudder shaft.

   

  In the event you make your own plate, make sure to change out the bronze 
sheave pins with stainless pins and check the sheave bushing/pin runout to make 
sure the sheaves are reusable.  I would advise not making an aluminum plate if 
you plan to re-use the bronze (pot metal) uprights for obvious reasons.

  This is also a really good time to replace your chain and wire cables since 
everything will be apart.  

   

  While this doesn’t necessarily help with the CAD issue, it may shed some 
light on the reason for the cost of the part, considering the engineering to 
make it work right out of the box.

  Best,

  Chuck Gilchrest

  Half Magic

  1975 25 Mk 1

  Orion

  1983 35 Landfall

  Padanaram MA

   

   

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh 
Muckley via CnC-List
  Sent: Monday, January 4, 2016 10:01 AM
  To: C List 
  Cc: Josh Muckley 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List C Nameplate - Now printing dwg file problem

   

  Building off of Bill's comments, most "good" machine shops will take your 
file without any hesitation.  If you  find one that will then try my guy at:

  Harry "HL" Langley
  marsurl...@comcast.net
  (410) 326-2001

  Josh Muckley
  S/V Sea Hawk
  1989 C 37+
  Solomons, MD 

  On Jan 4, 2016 4:41 AM, "S Thomas via CnC-List"  wrote:

To any lister with AutoCAD experience:

The plate holding the cable idler sheaves that bolts to the bottom of the 
Edson steering pedestal on my recent C purchase has almost completely 
disintegrated. I downloaded a .dwg drawing of the assembly from the Edson web 
page and installed a version of Autodesk Trueview (2014) that is compatible 
with XP, but I cannot get it to print (plot) anything other than an empty 
rectangle. I have been poking at it quite a bit and got exactly nowhere. I have 
no experience with AutoCAD, and find the user interface tools less than 
intuitive. About like my first experience with vi in Unix, only less 
productive. Any fiddling with layer colours, and the layout tab disappears 
completely. Is there a simple way to print from either the model or the layout 
tabs in the file as downloaded? All I have been able to get in the print 
preview is a line rectangle the outlines the page, and sure enough, that is all 
that prints. The help files have not been helpful in  printing, but at least I 
can pan, zoom, and 

Re: Stus-List C Nameplate

[Gary W. Russell via CnC-List]

I might add the acrylic plates will be more durable than the original because 
the letter are integral rather than glued on.  The UV resistance might be a 
little better after 25 years, as well.  I'm sure there will be a significant 
cost difference vs.  stainless steel.

Gary

Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~

> On Jan 5, 2016, at 5:45 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Looks awesome! 
> 
> It is completely authentic to the original.  Very well done.  I agree that 
> either a "+"  or an "R" or "XL" or "37/40" would be nice options and 
> appropriate.
> 
> I am apprehensive about the durability of plastic and I personally will 
> continue to pursue a polished metal plaque.  I had imagined something similar 
> to Ken's but as I'm writing this I re-imagined something laser etched.  This 
> is a phenomenal start towards either of those goals.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>> On Jan 5, 2016 5:14 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> Beautiful !  You may have a future there - !
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Seems like you should have the + on there, as the 37 is a completely 
>> different boat.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Regards,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Bill Coleman
>> 
>> C 39 Erie PA
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
>> Russell via CnC-List
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2016 4:50 PM
>> To: C List
>> Cc: Gary Russell
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List C Nameplate
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I have created a CAD file of the starboard side nameplate.  I welcome your 
>> opinions and criticism.  You may see it here:
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmR3dFbllPdXZ6aHc/view?usp=sharing
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> It's only the starboard side (so far), but all the symbols and characters 
>> are individual components, so they can easily be re-arranged.  I need to 
>> check a few dimension on the boat before I send it out for fabrication, but 
>> it was just too cold here today to bother.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Gary
>> 
>> S/V High Maintenance
>> 
>> '90 C 37 Plus
>> 
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 2:59 PM, Gary Russell  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Josh,
>> 
>>  The dimensions I have are 21-3/16"L x 2"H x 1/4"T.  If using acrylic, I 
>> would definitely recommend VHB tape.  It is terrific stuff for acrylic and 
>> gelcoat.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Gary
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:58 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I may have missed the message or dropped the ball last year.  Sorry folks.
>> 
>> The one on Ken's boat is aftermarket and is held on with 2 screws, one at 
>> each end.  The way I imagined one being made and installed was that the 
>> original plaque would be ground flush and the new metal plate fitted over 
>> top.  For attachment I felt like welded on studs (in place of screws) that 
>> went through the hull/deck was most favorable.  I don't know any of the 
>> engineering hurdles.  To be honest, an automotive body shop would just use 
>> 3M VHB tape.
>> 
>> The pictures should be sufficient to create a scale model.  The height is 
>> roughly 2.5 inches.  I'll try to get real measurements asap so that the 
>> scale can be applied to achieve the correct finished size.
>> 
>> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUklxR0VXQUd0WjA/edit
>> 
>> Josh
>> 
>> On Jan 4, 2016 11:24 AM, "david via CnC-List"  wrote:
>> 
>> This topic came up last year and I will put forward the same offer.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I own / work at a shop that has CNC machining capability and 3D solid 
>> modeling expertise. We work with solid models every day. My engineer is also 
>> an enthusiast of 3D printing and last year bought his own printer, although 
>> I am not sure of the size of it. It is able to print to different grades and 
>> / or quality of acrylic.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I would like to offer to produce a solid model at the least. The beauty of a 
>> model is you can see what it looks like prior to building anything. There 
>> are lots of manufacturing or production techniques that can be used to make 
>> these depending on the material one wants to use. From what I recall the 
>> ones with the raised letter (maybe acrylic) were also "recessed" into the 
>> cabin. I think the ones on Ken's boat are proud of the surface and maybe 
>> were never recessed or this was filled up.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I believe where it left off last time was someone was going to make a sketch 
>> or more specifically a "rubbing" of the outline so we had at least the outer 
>> dimensions and scale of the logo and star.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> David Donnelly
>> 
>> C 26 Mistress
>> 
>> On January 3, 2016 at 10:36 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Yeah Gary,
>> 
>> The old looking pictures are my boat.  The new ones are Ken Heaton's. 

Re: Stus-List Engine Room Original Paint

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Dang!
Well, I thought of the question after doing the sanding so maybe it's made
me smarter.
--Pb, I mean, Ox

On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 9:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> If it's in half decent shape after forty years, probably yes. The best
> paints back then had lead in it. We used to buy/compare exterior paint
> based on price & weight.
>
>  Just don't let any children chew on it.
>
> Cheers, Russ
> *Sweet *35 mk-1
>
>
>
> At 05:56 PM 05/01/2016, you wrote:
>
> I've been cleaning up the engine room, which has included some sanding of
> the original paint in there. Is there any chance that paint has lead in it?
> Thanks in advance,
> --Bob Moriarty
> Ox 1976 33-1
> Jax, FL
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List winter condensation

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Joe,

Your current conditions sum up a B.C. South Coast winter pretty well.

I run a ceramic style "cube" heater set about 10 degrees F above 
ambient and on a 12 hour timer set to come on at midnight. This 
allows me to override the timer if I'm puttering on the boat during the day.


80 bucks CDN is my winter electric bill.

If it gets really cold, like now it's at freezing, then I might get 
some condensation on the fore hatch 'cause I don't have a foredeck 
tarp hung yet.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
B.C. South Coast


At 09:10 AM 05/01/2016, you wrote:
This winter with weather going form warm and humid to cold and back 
has caused more condensation than the last 10 winters combined.
Anyone have any good ideas to get rid of it? Right now I am thinking 
about getting calcium chloride (the ingredient in Damp-Rid) and 
putting out a bucket of it plus maybe turning the heat up. I usually 
have it set about 45-50 degrees or so if I am not down there doing something.

Joe
Coquina
Cabin temp 51 degrees right now: http://aprs.fi/telemetry/a/N3HGB-5


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Re: Stus-List Furler system

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

I installed a Selden Furlex unit on my C 27 Mk I with no prior
experience. The package back then included a new head stay which was metric
in both the cable and pin size. Mast stayed up during the install. I had an
engineer friend check my measurements before I cut anything.

After Katrina, my sons and I installed a Schaffer 1000 on my replacement
C 30 Mk I. Mast was left standing. Different assembly from the Furlex,
but no problem with either brand. Follow the instructions and measure
carefully before cutting.


Ed
Briar Patch
C 34 1981
New Orleans

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016, Michael Cotton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Defender had Pro Furl for $850.
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 7:40 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
>
> If you are reasonably handy then you can install it.  Best to drop the
> mast, but it can be done mast up if you can keep the forestay.  And keeping
> the forestay will depend on what furler you go with, I've got a Harken
> cruising unit #1, had to change the forestay when I installed it.
>
> I'd go with a new sail, but then it is really easy to recommend to someone
> else that they spend their money...
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
>
> On 2016-01-05 10:24 PM, Curtis via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I have mostly light winds here in Beaufort SC.
> So out to 150% or at least a 135% would be best.
> But, Can I install it? do I keep my forstay?
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 9:11 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
> Congrats!
> My 2 cents:
>
> 15 - 25 year old sails are shot.  I don't know what your wind conditions
> are like, but I would buy a Harken furler and a good Dacron sail that
> covers most of your wind conditions.Partially furled sails are not
> great upwind, but are fine for cruising.
> It will cost several hundred dollars each to convert the old sails.  You
> might be better off picking up a used #3 and converting the #1 or vice
> versa depending on condition.
> You can stay within your budget if you shop around.
> If you are happy with the sock, keep it.
>
> Joel.
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 5, 2016, Curtis via CnC-List  > wrote:
>
> I have the approval from the admiral to purchase a new sail and furler
> system for my C  1981 1/4 ss wire
> Any advise on how or what to buy? I have no Idea how to proceed. I have a
> 115% 135% and a 170%. all hank on sails. I have a asymmetrical in a sock as
> well.
> My budget needs to be around or below $4, to 5 grand.
> I'm looking for advise on the complete package.
> 1) can I install it?
> 2) how do I know what to buy? I sail local with fun club racing?
> 3) my sails are all from the 1980's and 1990's? Throw them out and buy new?
> 3) Asy furler?
> Thanks for your help
>
>
> Capt,Curtis McDaniel
>
> Dataw island Marina
> 843-838-8410 Office
> * http://www.datawmarina.com/
> *
>
> * __/) *
>
> .
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
>
>
> --
> *Best regards,*
>
> *Curtis McDaniel, *
>
> *C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady *
> Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
> didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
> from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
> Discover.  -Mark Twain
> http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/
>
> *
> cpt.b...@gmail.com
> *
>
> * __/) *
>
> .
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> 
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>
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> 
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Re: Stus-List winter condensation

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I'm  having the same problems as everyone else.  Never before.

I worry about leaving heating appliances running while I'm not there.  I
bought a dehumidifier.  30 pint/day.  Might not be any safer to leave alone
than a heater.  Oddly, I have a engine block heater which I don't have any
fear of leaving unattended.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jan 5, 2016 9:39 PM, "Russ & Melody via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi Joe,
>
> Your current conditions sum up a B.C. South Coast winter pretty well.
>
> I run a ceramic style "cube" heater set about 10 degrees F above ambient
> and on a 12 hour timer set to come on at midnight. This allows me to
> override the timer if I'm puttering on the boat during the day.
>
> 80 bucks CDN is my winter electric bill.
>
> If it gets really cold, like now it's at freezing, then I might get some
> condensation on the fore hatch 'cause I don't have a foredeck tarp hung yet.
>
> Cheers, Russ
> *Sweet *35 mk-1
> B.C. South Coast
>
>
> At 09:10 AM 05/01/2016, you wrote:
>
> This winter with weather going form warm and humid to cold and back has
> caused more condensation than the last 10 winters combined.
> Anyone have any good ideas to get rid of it? Right now I am thinking about
> getting calcium chloride (the ingredient in Damp-Rid) and putting out a
> bucket of it plus maybe turning the heat up. I usually have it set about
> 45-50 degrees or so if I am not down there doing something.
> Joe
> Coquina
> Cabin temp 51 degrees right now: http://aprs.fi/telemetry/a/N3HGB-5
>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Furler system

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

If you are reasonably handy then you can install it.  Best to drop the 
mast, but it can be done mast up if you can keep the forestay. And 
keeping the forestay will depend on what furler you go with, I've got a 
Harken cruising unit #1, had to change the forestay when I installed it.


I'd go with a new sail, but then it is really easy to recommend to 
someone else that they spend their money...


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2016-01-05 10:24 PM, Curtis via CnC-List wrote:

I have mostly light winds here in Beaufort SC.
So out to 150% or at least a 135% would be best.
But, Can I install it? do I keep my forstay?


On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 9:11 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> wrote:


Congrats!
My 2 cents:

15 - 25 year old sails are shot.  I don't know what your wind
conditions are like, but I would buy a Harken furler and a good
Dacron sail that covers most of your wind conditions.Partially
furled sails are not great upwind, but are fine for cruising.
It will cost several hundred dollars each to convert the old
sails.  You might be better off picking up a used #3 and
converting the #1 or vice versa depending on condition.
You can stay within your budget if you shop around.
If you are happy with the sock, keep it.

Joel.


On Tuesday, January 5, 2016, Curtis via CnC-List
> wrote:

I have the approval from the admiral to purchase a new sail
and furler system for my C  1981 1/4 ss wire

Any advise on how or what to buy? I have no Idea how to
proceed. I have a 115% 135% and a 170%. all hank on sails. I
have a asymmetrical in a sock as well.

My budget needs to be around or below $4, to 5 grand.

I'm looking for advise on the complete package.

1) can I install it?

2) how do I know what to buy? I sail local with fun club racing?

3) my sails are all from the 1980's and 1990's? Throw them out
and buy new?

3) Asy furler?

Thanks for your help



Capt,Curtis McDaniel

Dataw island Marina

843-838-8410  Office

_http://www.datawmarina.com/_


/* __/) */

.





-- 
Joel

301 541 8551 

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--

*/Best regards,/*

*/Curtis McDaniel,
/*

*/C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady
/*

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that 
you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. 
Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. 
Explore. Dream. Discover.  -Mark Twain

http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/

**

*cpt.b...@gmail.com *

**

/* __/) */

.





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Re: Stus-List Furler system

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

Defender had Pro Furl for $850. 

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 7:40 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

  If you are reasonably handy then you can install it.  Best to drop the mast, 
but it can be done mast up if you can keep the forestay.  And keeping the 
forestay will depend on what furler you go with, I've got a Harken cruising 
unit #1, had to change the forestay when I installed it.
 
 I'd go with a new sail, but then it is really easy to recommend to someone 
else that they spend their money...  
 Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11 On 2016-01-05 10:24 PM, Curtis via CnC-List wrote:
  
 I have mostly light winds here in Beaufort SC. So out to 150% or at least a 
135% would be best. But, Can I install it? do I keep my forstay? 
   
 On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 9:11 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
Congrats! My 2 cents: 
  15 - 25 year old sails are shot.  I don't know what your wind conditions are 
like, but I would buy a Harken furler and a good Dacron sail that covers most 
of your wind conditions.    Partially furled sails are not great upwind, but 
are fine for cruising. It will cost several hundred dollars each to convert the 
old sails.  You might be better off picking up a used #3 and converting the #1 
or vice versa depending on condition. You can stay within your budget if you 
shop around.   If you are happy with the sock, keep it. 
  Joel.  
 
 On Tuesday, January 5, 2016, Curtis via CnC-List  wrote:
 
  I have the approval from the admiral to purchase a new sail and furler system 
for my C  1981 1/4 ss wire Any advise on how or what to buy? I have no 
Idea how to proceed. I have a 115% 135% and a 170%. all hank on sails.  I have 
a asymmetrical in a sock as well.  My budget needs to be around or below $4, to 
5 grand. I'm looking for advise on the complete package. 1) can I install it? 
2) how do I know what to buy? I sail local with fun club racing? 3) my sails 
are all from the 1980's and 1990's? Throw them out and buy new? 3) Asy furler? 
Thanks for your help 
  
  Capt,Curtis McDaniel   Dataw island Marina 843-838-8410 Office 
http://www.datawmarina.com/
  
  __/) 
 
 . 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 -- 
 Joel 
 301 541 8551
 
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of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
  
 
 
  -- 
 Best regards, Curtis McDaniel, 
  C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady
  Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
Discover.  -Mark Twain
 http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/    cpt.b...@gmail.com    __/) 
 
 . 
 
 
 
  
  
 ___

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Re: Stus-List C Nameplate

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Nice image. Since you asked, the sword could be longer, and a + should be added 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Gary Russell via CnC-List"  
To: "C List"  
Cc: "Gary Russell"  
Sent: Tuesday, January 5, 2016 4:50:20 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C Nameplate 

I have created a CAD file of the starboard side nameplate. I welcome your 
opinions and criticism. You may see it here: 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmR3dFbllPdXZ6aHc/view?usp=sharing 

It's only the starboard side (so far), but all the symbols and characters are 
individual components, so they can easily be re-arranged. I need to check a few 
dimension on the boat before I send it out for fabrication, but it was just too 
cold here today to bother. 

Gary 
S/V High Maintenance 
'90 C 37 Plus 
East Greenwich, RI, USA 

~~~ _ / ) ~~ 


On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 2:59 PM, Gary Russell < captnga...@gmail.com > wrote: 



Hi Josh, 
The dimensions I have are 21-3/16"L x 2"H x 1/4"T. If using acrylic, I would 
definitely recommend VHB tape. It is terrific stuff for acrylic and gelcoat. 

Gary 

~~~ _ / ) ~~ 


On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:58 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 




I may have missed the message or dropped the ball last year. Sorry folks. 

The one on Ken's boat is aftermarket and is held on with 2 screws, one at each 
end. The way I imagined one being made and installed was that the original 
plaque would be ground flush and the new metal plate fitted over top. For 
attachment I felt like welded on studs (in place of screws) that went through 
the hull/deck was most favorable. I don't know any of the engineering hurdles. 
To be honest, an automotive body shop would just use 3M VHB tape. 

The pictures should be sufficient to create a scale model. The height is 
roughly 2.5 inches. I'll try to get real measurements asap so that the scale 
can be applied to achieve the correct finished size. 

https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUklxR0VXQUd0WjA/edit 


Josh 
On Jan 4, 2016 11:24 AM, "david via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 



This topic came up last year and I will put forward the same offer. 
I own / work at a shop that has CNC machining capability and 3D solid modeling 
expertise. We work with solid models every day. My engineer is also an 
enthusiast of 3D printing and last year bought his own printer, although I am 
not sure of the size of it. It is able to print to different grades and / or 
quality of acrylic. 
I would like to offer to produce a solid model at the least. The beauty of a 
model is you can see what it looks like prior to building anything. There are 
lots of manufacturing or production techniques that can be used to make these 
depending on the material one wants to use. From what I recall the ones with 
the raised letter (maybe acrylic) were also "recessed" into the cabin. I think 
the ones on Ken's boat are proud of the surface and maybe were never recessed 
or this was filled up. 
I believe where it left off last time was someone was going to make a sketch or 
more specifically a "rubbing" of the outline so we had at least the outer 
dimensions and scale of the logo and star. 
David Donnelly 
C 26 Mistress 


On January 3, 2016 at 10:36 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 



Yeah Gary, 

The old looking pictures are my boat. The new ones are Ken Heaton's. This 
subject has come up at least twice since I've been a member of the list. This 
makes the third. Everyone is pretty convinced that Ken has the best nameplate. 
All of the 37+'ers seem up for a bulk order of nameplates. If you figure out a 
solution let us know. 

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+ 
Solomons, MD 




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Re: Stus-List winter condensation

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Agree. My 2 cents. I usually don't see a problem mold until the spring, but 
this winter near Annapolis, I had the white mildew on wood panels and doors and 
some black on white ceilings, all due I think to condensation collecting where 
verticles meet horizontals. Spent half a day wiping down the wood with Pinesol 
spray mix. It came clean very easily. But I need to re-oil the teak. The 
ceilings came clean using a damp sponge. Now it's below freezing so I expect 
the problem will be dormant till we see OA temps above 50 again. I don't 
believe in heaters or electrical devices powered while I am not present, so 
cleaning is my only resource. I haven't re-oiled the teak in a few years, so 
expect it may help to do that this spring. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Joe via CnC-List Della Barba"  
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: "Joe Della Barba"  
Sent: Tuesday, January 5, 2016 12:10:16 PM 
Subject: Stus-List winter condensation 

This winter with weather going form warm and humid to cold and back has caused 
more condensation than the last 10 winters combined. 
Anyone have any good ideas to get rid of it? Right now I am thinking about 
getting calcium chloride (the ingredient in Damp-Rid) and putting out a bucket 
of it plus maybe turning the heat up. I usually have it set about 45-50 degrees 
or so if I am not down there doing something. 
Joe 
Coquina 
Cabin temp 51 degrees right now: http://aprs.fi/telemetry/a/N3HGB-5 


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Re: Stus-List Engine acoustic insulation, incl. sources in

[Derek McLeod via CnC-List]

Hi,

I've purchased soundproofing products from Acoustiguard for use in my house and 
was happy with them as a supplier. I can't speak specifically to the Barymat 
product. 

I'm also planning to replace my engine compartment insulation as it is 
disintegrating. I was thinking of Roxul AFB at first and then just saw 
Acoustiguard has a fibreglass faced mineral fibre board called ML Board that 
might be worth pricing out. Comes in 1" or 2" thickness and says its uses 
include engine enclosure linings. 

The Barymat BTMM-14C is foil faced, 1.25" thick and says its suitable for 
marine use (dirty, wet or oily). Might be worth getting pricing on as well...

Derek McLeod 
1983 29-2 Aileron
Toronto

> On Jan 5, 2016, at 8:47 PM, Dave Syer  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Don, (And Tim)
>  
> Will check out the HMP material.  I also found something called Barymat BM-1C 
> at two local industrial suppliers one of whom quoted C$134 for 27sqft. 
> (54X72)   (HMP is C$95 13sqft, not the same stuff though)   I have a sample 
> of the barymat material and it is quite heavy at 1.6lb/sqft.   Will compare 
> its mass to HMP.  BM-1C t is .32" thick vs 1" for HMP, but I don't know about 
> the density.
>  
> http://www.acoustiguard.com/products/acoustic-sheet-roll-materials/barymat-bm-1c.html
>  
>  
> Anyone ever use this Barymat material?  (or similar?)
>  
> Dave
>  
>  
>  
>  
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2016 12:02:28 -0500
> From: Don Newman 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine acoustic insulation, incl. sources in
> Canada?
> Message-ID: <5b2a703e-d8f7-4f4d-b8b5-d9e2f280d...@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii
> 
> HMP has some good reasonably priced material.
> I have left overs if you are near Hamilton.
> 
> Don Newman
> 905 547 1750
> 
> > On Jan 5, 2016, at 11:21 AM, Dave Syer via CnC-List  
> > wrote:
> > 
> > Hi All,
> > 
> > Have searched the archives and found some great discussion on insulation 
> > installation practices.  Several folks replaced this material in 2014.  
> > Funny remark on the existing material being "both lily and dusty at the 
> > same time.   Mine is making a mess.
> > 
> > Any particularly good materials to recommend?
> > Any suggestions as to sources in Canada?  (Toronto specifically - film 
> > industry gen set people would be ideal...)
> > 
> > Thanks, Dave
> >
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Furler system

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Curtis,

My buddy and I professionally install and repair furlers.  We've worked on
many brands.  IMHO, the best of the lot is Harken.  ProFurls are good also.

Yes, you can install it yourself.  It's not rocket science.  However, I
wouldn't recommend it.

There are a few things to watch out for that a competent rigger will know.
For instance, you need two axes of rotation on each end of the forestay.
Chances are your existing rig has it but if it doesn't and you simply
replaced what's there, it would be a mistake.  Measuring the forestay pin
to pin distance is critical.  Cutting the extrusion involves a bit of
complicated math.  While the Harken instructions are good and precise, it's
easy to make a mistake.

Harken is a great company with excellent customer support.  If you decide
to do it yourself, they can answer questions.

Many riggers can get furlers at a discount which will help offset their
labor to install it.  I'd get some quotes.  You may find the price
difference is not that great.  The reassurance that it has been installed
properly will be worth the extra $$.

Also, a competent rigger should inspect your rig while he's aloft.  I
always do.  I check all mast and speader hardware, fasteners, pins, etc. on
the way up to drop the forestay.  that way, I can fix anything on the
second trip up to install the furler.

You'll want a new forestay.  You'll have to use a rigging shop for that
regardless.  Again, a rigger may be able to save a bit there also.  You'll
need to block the mast to the bowstem while the forestay is gone.

You'll want to make sure that your rig is raked properly.  If not, now is
the time to change it when you make the new forestay.

I added some rake to Touche's mast a while back by lengthening the
forestay.  It was easy for me because my buddy and I did it.  Just cost the
price of the new stay and a couple hours of our time.

So, you see installing a forestay, while fairly straightforward, involves
more than just following the instructions.

As part of the install, I recommend the Harken 7404 stanchion block kit.  I
upgraded my boat to this system and love it.  This is something you can
install yourself easily.

You can convert your existing sails to tape.  Most sail makers charge by
the foot of luff.  If you convert all your sails, I'd ask for a volume
discount.  Again, shop around.  Any loft can do this.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 8:02 PM, Curtis via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Dataw island Marina
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Re: Stus-List Furler system

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I was able to keep my rod forestay and my rigger did discount the furler
and did the install as Dennis suggested.  The mast was down anyhow.

Joel


On Tuesday, January 5, 2016, Graham Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you are reasonably handy then you can install it.  Best to drop the
> mast, but it can be done mast up if you can keep the forestay.  And keeping
> the forestay will depend on what furler you go with, I've got a Harken
> cruising unit #1, had to change the forestay when I installed it.
>
> I'd go with a new sail, but then it is really easy to recommend to someone
> else that they spend their money...
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
>
> On 2016-01-05 10:24 PM, Curtis via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I have mostly light winds here in Beaufort SC.
> So out to 150% or at least a 135% would be best.
> But, Can I install it? do I keep my forstay?
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 9:11 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
>> Congrats!
>> My 2 cents:
>>
>> 15 - 25 year old sails are shot.  I don't know what your wind conditions
>> are like, but I would buy a Harken furler and a good Dacron sail that
>> covers most of your wind conditions.Partially furled sails are not
>> great upwind, but are fine for cruising.
>> It will cost several hundred dollars each to convert the old sails.  You
>> might be better off picking up a used #3 and converting the #1 or vice
>> versa depending on condition.
>> You can stay within your budget if you shop around.
>> If you are happy with the sock, keep it.
>>
>> Joel.
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 5, 2016, Curtis via CnC-List > > wrote:
>>
>>> I have the approval from the admiral to purchase a new sail and furler
>>> system for my C  1981 1/4 ss wire
>>>
>>> Any advise on how or what to buy? I have no Idea how to proceed. I have
>>> a 115% 135% and a 170%. all hank on sails. I have a asymmetrical in a sock
>>> as well.
>>>
>>> My budget needs to be around or below $4, to 5 grand.
>>>
>>> I'm looking for advise on the complete package.
>>>
>>> 1) can I install it?
>>>
>>> 2) how do I know what to buy? I sail local with fun club racing?
>>>
>>> 3) my sails are all from the 1980's and 1990's? Throw them out and buy
>>> new?
>>>
>>> 3) Asy furler?
>>>
>>> Thanks for your help
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Capt,Curtis McDaniel
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Dataw island Marina
>>>
>>> 843-838-8410 <843-554-8901> Office
>>>
>>> * http://www.datawmarina.com/
>>> *
>>>
>>> * __/) *
>>>
>>> .
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
>
> *Best regards,*
>
>
> *Curtis McDaniel, *
>
>
> *C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady *
>
> Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
> didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
> from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
> Discover.  -Mark Twain
> http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
> *
> cpt.b...@gmail.com
> *
>
>
> * __/) *
>
> .
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List C Nameplate

[Gary W. Russell via CnC-List]

I will be talking to my machine shop friend this weekend about a quote to use 
the same 3D model to machine the nameplates out of stainless steel.  I haven't 
ruled out the idea of adding the "+", "Plus" or "/40 to the nameplates.  The 
way the model is built, adding or changing text is pretty straight forward.  
For that matter, if there are other C models with a similar nameplate, I 
could probably accommodate those as well.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C 37 " "
East Greenwich, RI, USA

Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~

> On Jan 5, 2016, at 5:45 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Looks awesome! 
> 
> It is completely authentic to the original.  Very well done.  I agree that 
> either a "+"  or an "R" or "XL" or "37/40" would be nice options and 
> appropriate.
> 
> I am apprehensive about the durability of plastic and I personally will 
> continue to pursue a polished metal plaque.  I had imagined something similar 
> to Ken's but as I'm writing this I re-imagined something laser etched.  This 
> is a phenomenal start towards either of those goals.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>> On Jan 5, 2016 5:14 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> Beautiful !  You may have a future there - !
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Seems like you should have the + on there, as the 37 is a completely 
>> different boat.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Regards,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Bill Coleman
>> 
>> C 39 Erie PA
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
>> Russell via CnC-List
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2016 4:50 PM
>> To: C List
>> Cc: Gary Russell
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List C Nameplate
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I have created a CAD file of the starboard side nameplate.  I welcome your 
>> opinions and criticism.  You may see it here:
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmR3dFbllPdXZ6aHc/view?usp=sharing
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> It's only the starboard side (so far), but all the symbols and characters 
>> are individual components, so they can easily be re-arranged.  I need to 
>> check a few dimension on the boat before I send it out for fabrication, but 
>> it was just too cold here today to bother.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Gary
>> 
>> S/V High Maintenance
>> 
>> '90 C 37 Plus
>> 
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 2:59 PM, Gary Russell  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Josh,
>> 
>>  The dimensions I have are 21-3/16"L x 2"H x 1/4"T.  If using acrylic, I 
>> would definitely recommend VHB tape.  It is terrific stuff for acrylic and 
>> gelcoat.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Gary
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:58 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I may have missed the message or dropped the ball last year.  Sorry folks.
>> 
>> The one on Ken's boat is aftermarket and is held on with 2 screws, one at 
>> each end.  The way I imagined one being made and installed was that the 
>> original plaque would be ground flush and the new metal plate fitted over 
>> top.  For attachment I felt like welded on studs (in place of screws) that 
>> went through the hull/deck was most favorable.  I don't know any of the 
>> engineering hurdles.  To be honest, an automotive body shop would just use 
>> 3M VHB tape.
>> 
>> The pictures should be sufficient to create a scale model.  The height is 
>> roughly 2.5 inches.  I'll try to get real measurements asap so that the 
>> scale can be applied to achieve the correct finished size.
>> 
>> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUklxR0VXQUd0WjA/edit
>> 
>> Josh
>> 
>> On Jan 4, 2016 11:24 AM, "david via CnC-List"  wrote:
>> 
>> This topic came up last year and I will put forward the same offer.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I own / work at a shop that has CNC machining capability and 3D solid 
>> modeling expertise. We work with solid models every day. My engineer is also 
>> an enthusiast of 3D printing and last year bought his own printer, although 
>> I am not sure of the size of it. It is able to print to different grades and 
>> / or quality of acrylic.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I would like to offer to produce a solid model at the least. The beauty of a 
>> model is you can see what it looks like prior to building anything. There 
>> are lots of manufacturing or production techniques that can be used to make 
>> these depending on the material one wants to use. From what I recall the 
>> ones with the raised letter (maybe acrylic) were also "recessed" into the 
>> cabin. I think the ones on Ken's boat are proud of the surface and maybe 
>> were never recessed or this was filled up.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I believe where it left off last time was someone was going to make a sketch 
>> or more specifically a "rubbing" of the outline so we had at least the outer 
>> dimensions and scale of the logo and star.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> David 

Re: Stus-List Furler system

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Curtis,

I installed a Furlex 200s on my last boat.  The rigger/sail maker that sold
it to me evidently was not supposed to allow me to install it myself.  I
think that for the same price he would have done the work.  I just like
DIY.  The 200s is their smallest furler and would probably be sufficient
for your application.  I really like the design A LOT!  One thing to
consider is the annual maintenance.  With Harken, the delrin bearings don't
require anything but a freshwater rinse and some mclube.  Furlex has SS
bearings which are supposed to be fresh water rinsed and greased.  SS seems
more durable but heavier and requires more-ish maintenance.  A Furlex comes
with a new headstay which, if you decide to install yourself, can be easily
made up and terminated with the included swageless fitting.  Really nice.
Well engineered.  I paid ~1200 for the furler and then after installation
had a sail made for ~$1300.

BTW the headstay is a single point vulnerability which could cause a loss
of the mast.  If it hasn't been replaced, it probably should be.  I would
take this opportunity to upsize the wire.  I'm currently having the rod
rigging in my 30 year old furler replaced.  Upsized from #12 to #17 Navteq
rod.  Break strength from 12500 to 17500 and only about 3 lbs heavier.
Just piece of mind.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jan 5, 2016 9:03 PM, "Curtis via CnC-List"  wrote:

> I have the approval from the admiral to purchase a new sail and furler
> system for my C  1981 1/4 ss wire
>
> Any advise on how or what to buy? I have no Idea how to proceed. I have a
> 115% 135% and a 170%. all hank on sails. I have a asymmetrical in a sock as
> well.
>
> My budget needs to be around or below $4, to 5 grand.
>
> I'm looking for advise on the complete package.
>
> 1) can I install it?
>
> 2) how do I know what to buy? I sail local with fun club racing?
>
> 3) my sails are all from the 1980's and 1990's? Throw them out and buy new?
>
> 3) Asy furler?
>
> Thanks for your help
>
>
>
> Capt,Curtis McDaniel
>
>
>
> Dataw island Marina
>
> 843-838-8410 <843-554-8901> Office
>
> *http://www.datawmarina.com/ *
>
> * __/) *
>
> .
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C Nameplate

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Beautiful !  You may have a future there - !

 

Seems like you should have the + on there, as the 37 is a completely different 
boat.

 

Regards,

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2016 4:50 PM
To: C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List C Nameplate

 

I have created a CAD file of the starboard side nameplate.  I welcome your 
opinions and criticism.  You may see it here:

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmR3dFbllPdXZ6aHc/view?usp=sharing

 

It's only the starboard side (so far), but all the symbols and characters are 
individual components, so they can easily be re-arranged.  I need to check a 
few dimension on the boat before I send it out for fabrication, but it was just 
too cold here today to bother.

 

Gary

S/V High Maintenance

'90 C 37 Plus

East Greenwich, RI, USA




~~~_/)~~

 

On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 2:59 PM, Gary Russell  wrote:

Hi Josh,

 The dimensions I have are 21-3/16"L x 2"H x 1/4"T.  If using acrylic, I 
would definitely recommend VHB tape.  It is terrific stuff for acrylic and 
gelcoat.

 

Gary




~~~_/)~~

 

On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:58 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I may have missed the message or dropped the ball last year.  Sorry folks.

The one on Ken's boat is aftermarket and is held on with 2 screws, one at each 
end.  The way I imagined one being made and installed was that the original 
plaque would be ground flush and the new metal plate fitted over top.  For 
attachment I felt like welded on studs (in place of screws) that went through 
the hull/deck was most favorable.  I don't know any of the engineering hurdles. 
 To be honest, an automotive body shop would just use 3M VHB tape.

The pictures should be sufficient to create a scale model.  The height is 
roughly 2.5 inches.  I'll try to get real measurements asap so that the scale 
can be applied to achieve the correct finished size.

https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUklxR0VXQUd0WjA/edit

Josh

On Jan 4, 2016 11:24 AM, "david via CnC-List"  wrote:

This topic came up last year and I will put forward the same offer.

 

I own / work at a shop that has CNC machining capability and 3D solid modeling 
expertise. We work with solid models every day. My engineer is also an 
enthusiast of 3D printing and last year bought his own printer, although I am 
not sure of the size of it. It is able to print to different grades and / or 
quality of acrylic.

 

I would like to offer to produce a solid model at the least. The beauty of a 
model is you can see what it looks like prior to building anything. There are 
lots of manufacturing or production techniques that can be used to make these 
depending on the material one wants to use. From what I recall the ones with 
the raised letter (maybe acrylic) were also "recessed" into the cabin. I think 
the ones on Ken's boat are proud of the surface and maybe were never recessed 
or this was filled up.

 

I believe where it left off last time was someone was going to make a sketch or 
more specifically a "rubbing" of the outline so we had at least the outer 
dimensions and scale of the logo and star.

 

David Donnelly

C 26 Mistress

On January 3, 2016 at 10:36 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Yeah Gary,

The old looking pictures are my boat.  The new ones are Ken Heaton's.  This 
subject has come up at least twice since I've been a member of the list.  This 
makes the third.  Everyone is pretty convinced that Ken has the best nameplate. 
 All of the 37+'ers seem up for a bulk order of nameplates.  If you figure out 
a solution let us know.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

 

 

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___

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Re: Stus-List C Nameplate

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Looks awesome!

It is completely authentic to the original.  Very well done.  I agree that
either a "+"  or an "R" or "XL" or "37/40" would be nice options and
appropriate.

I am apprehensive about the durability of plastic and I personally will
continue to pursue a polished metal plaque.  I had imagined something
similar to Ken's but as I'm writing this I re-imagined something laser
etched.  This is a phenomenal start towards either of those goals.

Thanks,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jan 5, 2016 5:14 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Beautiful !  You may have a future there - !
>
>
>
> Seems like you should have the + on there, as the 37 is a completely
> different boat.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C 39 Erie PA
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Gary
> Russell via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 05, 2016 4:50 PM
> *To:* C List
> *Cc:* Gary Russell
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C Nameplate
>
>
>
> I have created a CAD file of the starboard side nameplate.  I welcome your
> opinions and criticism.  You may see it here:
>
>
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmR3dFbllPdXZ6aHc/view?usp=sharing
>
>
>
> It's only the starboard side (so far), but all the symbols and characters
> are individual components, so they can easily be re-arranged.  I need to
> check a few dimension on the boat before I send it out for fabrication, but
> it was just too cold here today to bother.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> S/V High Maintenance
>
> '90 C 37 Plus
>
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 2:59 PM, Gary Russell  wrote:
>
> Hi Josh,
>
>  The dimensions I have are 21-3/16"L x 2"H x 1/4"T.  If using
> acrylic, I would definitely recommend VHB tape.  It is terrific stuff for
> acrylic and gelcoat.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:58 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I may have missed the message or dropped the ball last year.  Sorry folks.
>
> The one on Ken's boat is aftermarket and is held on with 2 screws, one at
> each end.  The way I imagined one being made and installed was that the
> original plaque would be ground flush and the new metal plate fitted over
> top.  For attachment I felt like welded on studs (in place of screws) that
> went through the hull/deck was most favorable.  I don't know any of the
> engineering hurdles.  To be honest, an automotive body shop would just use
> 3M VHB tape.
>
> The pictures should be sufficient to create a scale model.  The height is
> roughly 2.5 inches.  I'll try to get real measurements asap so that the
> scale can be applied to achieve the correct finished size.
>
> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUklxR0VXQUd0WjA/edit
>
> Josh
>
> On Jan 4, 2016 11:24 AM, "david via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
> This topic came up last year and I will put forward the same offer.
>
>
>
> I own / work at a shop that has CNC machining capability and 3D solid
> modeling expertise. We work with solid models every day. My engineer is
> also an enthusiast of 3D printing and last year bought his own printer,
> although I am not sure of the size of it. It is able to print to different
> grades and / or quality of acrylic.
>
>
>
> I would like to offer to produce a solid model at the least. The beauty of
> a model is you can see what it looks like prior to building anything. There
> are lots of manufacturing or production techniques that can be used to make
> these depending on the material one wants to use. From what I recall the
> ones with the raised letter (maybe acrylic) were also "recessed" into the
> cabin. I think the ones on Ken's boat are proud of the surface and maybe
> were never recessed or this was filled up.
>
>
>
> I believe where it left off last time was someone was going to make a
> sketch or more specifically a "rubbing" of the outline so we had at least
> the outer dimensions and scale of the logo and star.
>
>
>
> David Donnelly
>
> C 26 Mistress
>
> On January 3, 2016 at 10:36 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Yeah Gary,
>
> The old looking pictures are my boat.  The new ones are Ken Heaton's.
> This subject has come up at least twice since I've been a member of the
> list.  This makes the third.  Everyone is pretty convinced that Ken has the
> best nameplate.  All of the 37+'ers seem up for a bulk order of
> nameplates.  If you figure out a solution let us know.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> 

Re: Stus-List C Nameplate

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Bill,
 From what I can see, mine never had a "+" on it.  I say that because
the port side nameplate doesn't have enough room after the "37" to fit the
"+".  My wife thinks I should put it on, but I'm trying to duplicate the
original.  If someone can show me that the original had a "+" on it I can
add it.

Thanks,
Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 5:13 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Beautiful !  You may have a future there - !
>
>
>
> Seems like you should have the + on there, as the 37 is a completely
> different boat.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C 39 Erie PA
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Gary
> Russell via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 05, 2016 4:50 PM
> *To:* C List
> *Cc:* Gary Russell
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C Nameplate
>
>
>
> I have created a CAD file of the starboard side nameplate.  I welcome your
> opinions and criticism.  You may see it here:
>
>
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmR3dFbllPdXZ6aHc/view?usp=sharing
>
>
>
> It's only the starboard side (so far), but all the symbols and characters
> are individual components, so they can easily be re-arranged.  I need to
> check a few dimension on the boat before I send it out for fabrication, but
> it was just too cold here today to bother.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> S/V High Maintenance
>
> '90 C 37 Plus
>
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 2:59 PM, Gary Russell  wrote:
>
> Hi Josh,
>
>  The dimensions I have are 21-3/16"L x 2"H x 1/4"T.  If using
> acrylic, I would definitely recommend VHB tape.  It is terrific stuff for
> acrylic and gelcoat.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:58 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I may have missed the message or dropped the ball last year.  Sorry folks.
>
> The one on Ken's boat is aftermarket and is held on with 2 screws, one at
> each end.  The way I imagined one being made and installed was that the
> original plaque would be ground flush and the new metal plate fitted over
> top.  For attachment I felt like welded on studs (in place of screws) that
> went through the hull/deck was most favorable.  I don't know any of the
> engineering hurdles.  To be honest, an automotive body shop would just use
> 3M VHB tape.
>
> The pictures should be sufficient to create a scale model.  The height is
> roughly 2.5 inches.  I'll try to get real measurements asap so that the
> scale can be applied to achieve the correct finished size.
>
> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUklxR0VXQUd0WjA/edit
>
> Josh
>
> On Jan 4, 2016 11:24 AM, "david via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
> This topic came up last year and I will put forward the same offer.
>
>
>
> I own / work at a shop that has CNC machining capability and 3D solid
> modeling expertise. We work with solid models every day. My engineer is
> also an enthusiast of 3D printing and last year bought his own printer,
> although I am not sure of the size of it. It is able to print to different
> grades and / or quality of acrylic.
>
>
>
> I would like to offer to produce a solid model at the least. The beauty of
> a model is you can see what it looks like prior to building anything. There
> are lots of manufacturing or production techniques that can be used to make
> these depending on the material one wants to use. From what I recall the
> ones with the raised letter (maybe acrylic) were also "recessed" into the
> cabin. I think the ones on Ken's boat are proud of the surface and maybe
> were never recessed or this was filled up.
>
>
>
> I believe where it left off last time was someone was going to make a
> sketch or more specifically a "rubbing" of the outline so we had at least
> the outer dimensions and scale of the logo and star.
>
>
>
> David Donnelly
>
> C 26 Mistress
>
> On January 3, 2016 at 10:36 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Yeah Gary,
>
> The old looking pictures are my boat.  The new ones are Ken Heaton's.
> This subject has come up at least twice since I've been a member of the
> list.  This makes the third.  Everyone is pretty convinced that Ken has the
> best nameplate.  All of the 37+'ers seem up for a bulk order of
> nameplates.  If you figure out a solution let us know.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>

Re: Stus-List C Nameplate

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I have created a CAD file of the starboard side nameplate.  I welcome your
opinions and criticism.  You may see it here:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmR3dFbllPdXZ6aHc/view?usp=sharing

It's only the starboard side (so far), but all the symbols and characters
are individual components, so they can easily be re-arranged.  I need to
check a few dimension on the boat before I send it out for fabrication, but
it was just too cold here today to bother.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 2:59 PM, Gary Russell  wrote:

> Hi Josh,
>  The dimensions I have are 21-3/16"L x 2"H x 1/4"T.  If using
> acrylic, I would definitely recommend VHB tape.  It is terrific stuff for
> acrylic and gelcoat.
>
> Gary
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:58 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I may have missed the message or dropped the ball last year.  Sorry folks.
>>
>> The one on Ken's boat is aftermarket and is held on with 2 screws, one at
>> each end.  The way I imagined one being made and installed was that the
>> original plaque would be ground flush and the new metal plate fitted over
>> top.  For attachment I felt like welded on studs (in place of screws) that
>> went through the hull/deck was most favorable.  I don't know any of the
>> engineering hurdles.  To be honest, an automotive body shop would just use
>> 3M VHB tape.
>>
>> The pictures should be sufficient to create a scale model.  The height is
>> roughly 2.5 inches.  I'll try to get real measurements asap so that the
>> scale can be applied to achieve the correct finished size.
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUklxR0VXQUd0WjA/edit
>>
>> Josh
>> On Jan 4, 2016 11:24 AM, "david via CnC-List" 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> This topic came up last year and I will put forward the same offer.
>>>
>>> I own / work at a shop that has CNC machining capability and 3D solid
>>> modeling expertise. We work with solid models every day. My engineer is
>>> also an enthusiast of 3D printing and last year bought his own printer,
>>> although I am not sure of the size of it. It is able to print to different
>>> grades and / or quality of acrylic.
>>>
>>> I would like to offer to produce a solid model at the least. The beauty
>>> of a model is you can see what it looks like prior to building anything.
>>> There are lots of manufacturing or production techniques that can be used
>>> to make these depending on the material one wants to use. From what I
>>> recall the ones with the raised letter (maybe acrylic) were also "recessed"
>>> into the cabin. I think the ones on Ken's boat are proud of the surface and
>>> maybe were never recessed or this was filled up.
>>>
>>> I believe where it left off last time was someone was going to make a
>>> sketch or more specifically a "rubbing" of the outline so we had at least
>>> the outer dimensions and scale of the logo and star.
>>>
>>> David Donnelly
>>> C 26 Mistress
>>>
>>> On January 3, 2016 at 10:36 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Yeah Gary,
>>>
>>> The old looking pictures are my boat.  The new ones are Ken Heaton's.
>>> This subject has come up at least twice since I've been a member of the
>>> list.  This makes the third.  Everyone is pretty convinced that Ken has the
>>> best nameplate.  All of the 37+'ers seem up for a bulk order of
>>> nameplates.  If you figure out a solution let us know.
>>>
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Engine acoustic insulation, incl. sources in

[Dave Syer via CnC-List]

Thanks Don, (And Tim)
 
Will check out the HMP material.  I also found something called Barymat BM-1C 
at two local industrial suppliers one of whom quoted C$134 for 27sqft. (54X72)  
 (HMP is C$95 13sqft, not the same stuff though)   I have a sample of the 
barymat material and it is quite heavy at 1.6lb/sqft.   Will compare its mass 
to HMP.  BM-1C t is .32" thick vs 1" for HMP, but I don't know about the 
density.
 
http://www.acoustiguard.com/products/acoustic-sheet-roll-materials/barymat-bm-1c.html
 
 
Anyone ever use this Barymat material?  (or similar?)
 
Dave
 
 
 
 
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2016 12:02:28 -0500
From: Don Newman 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine acoustic insulation, incl. sources in
Canada?
Message-ID: <5b2a703e-d8f7-4f4d-b8b5-d9e2f280d...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii

HMP has some good reasonably priced material.
I have left overs if you are near Hamilton.

Don Newman
905 547 1750

> On Jan 5, 2016, at 11:21 AM, Dave Syer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> Have searched the archives and found some great discussion on insulation 
> installation practices.  Several folks replaced this material in 2014.  Funny 
> remark on the existing material being "both lily and dusty at the same time.  
>  Mine is making a mess.
> 
> Any particularly good materials to recommend?
> Any suggestions as to sources in Canada?  (Toronto specifically - film 
> industry gen set people would be ideal...)
> 
> Thanks, Dave
>


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Stus-List Engine Room Original Paint

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

I've been cleaning up the engine room, which has included some sanding of
the original paint in there. Is there any chance that paint has lead in it?
Thanks in advance,
--Bob Moriarty
Ox 1976 33-1
Jax, FL
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Stus-List Furler system

[Curtis via CnC-List]

I have the approval from the admiral to purchase a new sail and furler
system for my C  1981 1/4 ss wire

Any advise on how or what to buy? I have no Idea how to proceed. I have a
115% 135% and a 170%. all hank on sails. I have a asymmetrical in a sock as
well.

My budget needs to be around or below $4, to 5 grand.

I'm looking for advise on the complete package.

1) can I install it?

2) how do I know what to buy? I sail local with fun club racing?

3) my sails are all from the 1980's and 1990's? Throw them out and buy new?

3) Asy furler?

Thanks for your help



Capt,Curtis McDaniel



Dataw island Marina

843-838-8410 <843-554-8901> Office

*http://www.datawmarina.com/ *

* __/) *

.
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Re: Stus-List Furler system

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Congrats!
My 2 cents:

15 - 25 year old sails are shot.  I don't know what your wind conditions
are like, but I would buy a Harken furler and a good Dacron sail that
covers most of your wind conditions.Partially furled sails are not
great upwind, but are fine for cruising.
It will cost several hundred dollars each to convert the old sails.  You
might be better off picking up a used #3 and converting the #1 or vice
versa depending on condition.
You can stay within your budget if you shop around.
If you are happy with the sock, keep it.

Joel.

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016, Curtis via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I have the approval from the admiral to purchase a new sail and furler
> system for my C  1981 1/4 ss wire
>
> Any advise on how or what to buy? I have no Idea how to proceed. I have a
> 115% 135% and a 170%. all hank on sails. I have a asymmetrical in a sock as
> well.
>
> My budget needs to be around or below $4, to 5 grand.
>
> I'm looking for advise on the complete package.
>
> 1) can I install it?
>
> 2) how do I know what to buy? I sail local with fun club racing?
>
> 3) my sails are all from the 1980's and 1990's? Throw them out and buy new?
>
> 3) Asy furler?
>
> Thanks for your help
>
>
>
> Capt,Curtis McDaniel
>
>
>
> Dataw island Marina
>
> 843-838-8410 <843-554-8901> Office
>
> *http://www.datawmarina.com/ *
>
> * __/) *
>
> .
>
>
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List 818 messages...

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

True dat. The thing about C is hang on, brb.
lol aka haha
--Ox

>
> Anyhow, a bunch of listers reply with single points now, instead of
> compiling their thoughts into a message which considers the whole problem
> expressed.
> 
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Engine Room Original Paint

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

If it's in half decent shape after forty years, probably yes. The 
best paints back then had lead in it. We used to buy/compare exterior 
paint based on price & weight.


 Just don't let any children chew on it.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 05:56 PM 05/01/2016, you wrote:
I've been cleaning up the engine room, which has included some 
sanding of the original paint in there. Is there any chance that 
paint has lead in it?

Thanks in advance,
--Bob Moriarty
Ox 1976 33-1
Jax, FL
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Re: Stus-List Furler system

[Curtis via CnC-List]

I have mostly light winds here in Beaufort SC.
So out to 150% or at least a 135% would be best.
But, Can I install it? do I keep my forstay?


On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 9:11 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Congrats!
> My 2 cents:
>
> 15 - 25 year old sails are shot.  I don't know what your wind conditions
> are like, but I would buy a Harken furler and a good Dacron sail that
> covers most of your wind conditions.Partially furled sails are not
> great upwind, but are fine for cruising.
> It will cost several hundred dollars each to convert the old sails.  You
> might be better off picking up a used #3 and converting the #1 or vice
> versa depending on condition.
> You can stay within your budget if you shop around.
> If you are happy with the sock, keep it.
>
> Joel.
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 5, 2016, Curtis via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> I have the approval from the admiral to purchase a new sail and furler
>> system for my C  1981 1/4 ss wire
>>
>> Any advise on how or what to buy? I have no Idea how to proceed. I have a
>> 115% 135% and a 170%. all hank on sails. I have a asymmetrical in a sock as
>> well.
>>
>> My budget needs to be around or below $4, to 5 grand.
>>
>> I'm looking for advise on the complete package.
>>
>> 1) can I install it?
>>
>> 2) how do I know what to buy? I sail local with fun club racing?
>>
>> 3) my sails are all from the 1980's and 1990's? Throw them out and buy
>> new?
>>
>> 3) Asy furler?
>>
>> Thanks for your help
>>
>>
>>
>> Capt,Curtis McDaniel
>>
>>
>>
>> Dataw island Marina
>>
>> 843-838-8410 <843-554-8901> Office
>>
>> *http://www.datawmarina.com/ *
>>
>> * __/) *
>>
>> .
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 

*Best regards,*


*Curtis McDaniel, *


*C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover.  -Mark Twain
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



*cpt.b...@gmail.com *


* __/) *

.
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Re: Stus-List Engine acoustic insulation, incl. sources in Canada?

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Dave,

 

I bought Sounddown insulation.  It was kind of pricey, even at Defender.  It 
works well.  I’ve started using a product called Fat Mat in my cars/trucks.  It 
is thin, but heavy.  It sticks to most surfaces and is easy to apply.  I might 
try some on the boat soon too.  It is also fairly inexpensive.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Syer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 5, 2016 11:21
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Syer 
Subject: Stus-List Engine acoustic insulation, incl. sources in Canada?

 

Hi All,

 

Have searched the archives and found some great discussion on insulation 
installation practices.  Several folks replaced this material in 2014.  Funny 
remark on the existing material being "both lily and dusty at the same time.   
Mine is making a mess.

 

Any particularly good materials to recommend?

Any suggestions as to sources in Canada?  (Toronto specifically - film industry 
gen set people would be ideal...)

 

Thanks, Dave

 

 

 

 

 

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