Re: Stus-List production number

[Jgnadeau via CnC-List]

Thanks all for your suggestions and advice. I suspected that the number I have 
is incorrect and you have confirmed that. It came off the last survey report 
and the surveyor obviously got it wrong. I will have someone check the number 
and report back. Unfortunately, I can't do that myself as I am in Mexico and 
the boat is in Comox, BC.
Gracias.
Cheers, J-G
Callisto, C 35 Mk II
Esquimalt, BC___

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Re: Stus-List production number

[Jgnadeau via CnC-List]

Thanks all for your suggestions and advice. I suspected that the number I have 
is incorrect and you have confirmed that. It came off the last survey report 
and the surveyor obviously got it wrong. I will have someone check the number 
and report back. Unfortunately, I can't do that myself as I am in Mexico and 
the boat is in Comox, BC.
Gracias.
Cheers, J-G
Callisto, C 35 Mk II
Esquimalt, BC___

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Re: Stus-List Production number

[Joseph Bognar via CnC-List]

The ON 32E 24426 would be the Provincial registration number . It's odd to see 
the 32E and the On together . The old Ontario registration numbers used to be 
per region . 32 E was Ottawa . All the new ones in Ontario are now with the ON 
prefix 

Sent from Joe Bognar


> On Jan 27, 2016, at 11:22 AM, Jgnadeau via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>> Hi All
>> New to this forum and just bought Callisto, C 35 Mk II. 
>> Quick question: is there a way to determine the hull production sequence 
>> number from the serial number or official numbers? Callisto's are:
> HIN: 33Y3627CC474
> ON: 32E 24426
> My guess would be the 244 number of the ON and that the keel was laid in Apr 
> 74 (last 3 of the HIN)
>> There were 351 of these produced and I would like to know where she lies in 
>> the production line and any other information included in these numbers.
> 
> Cheers, sailorjg
> Victoria, BC
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List production number

[Jgnadeau via CnC-List]

Thanks all for your suggestions and advice. I suspected that the number I have 
is incorrect and you have confirmed that. It came off the last survey report 
and the surveyor obviously got it wrong. I will have someone check the number 
and report back. Unfortunately, I can't do that myself as I am in Mexico and 
the boat is in Comox, BC.
Gracias.
Cheers, J-G
Callisto, C 35 Mk II
Esquimalt, BC___

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Re: Stus-List production number

[Jgnadeau via CnC-List]

Thanks all for your suggestions and advice. I suspected that the number I have 
is incorrect and you have confirmed that. It came off the last survey report 
and the surveyor obviously got it wrong. I will have someone check the number 
and report back. Unfortunately, I can't do that myself as I am in Mexico and 
the boat is in Comox, BC.
Gracias.
Cheers, J-G
Callisto, C 35 Mk II
Esquimalt, BC___

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Re: Stus-List Production number

[Kurt Heckert via CnC-List]

I have a 35MkII her HIN is ZCC353320175, ZCC is the builders code, 35 is the 
length, 332 is the sequence or her S/N, 0175 is when she was built. I dont 
think the # you show as the HIN is correct.

Kurt Heckert
C 35mkII 
Heart and Soul
Atlanta GA___

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Stus-List Production number

[Jgnadeau via CnC-List]

> Hi All
> New to this forum and just bought Callisto, C 35 Mk II. 
> Quick question: is there a way to determine the hull production sequence 
> number from the serial number or official numbers? Callisto's are:
HIN: 33Y3627CC474
ON: 32E 24426
My guess would be the 244 number of the ON and that the keel was laid in Apr 74 
(last 3 of the HIN)
> There were 351 of these produced and I would like to know where she lies in 
> the production line and any other information included in these numbers.

Cheers, sailorjg
Victoria, BC___

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Re: Stus-List Production number

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

The 36 refers to the model, and is not part of the "production number" 
which is 27. There have been hundreds of posts with information on how 
to interpret the HIN number correctly. The number does not look like it 
could be accurate anyway. The first two characters would be either ZZY 
or CCY. They represent the manufacturer code.


Bill Bina


On 1/27/2016 12:32 PM, Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List wrote:
The Ontario licence number has no bearing on anything (other than when 
and where it was licensed). It is a number akin to a licence plate on 
the car.
Your HIN is a different matter. My guess would be April 74 and #3627. 
but it does not make much sense to me.

Marek
C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON
*From:* Jgnadeau via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Wednesday, January 27, 2016 11:23
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Jgnadeau 
*Subject:* Stus-List Production number

Hi All
New to this forum and just bought Callisto, C 35 Mk II.
Quick question: is there a way to determine the hull production 
sequence number from the serial number or official numbers? 
Callisto's are:

HIN: 33Y3627CC474
ON: 32E 24426
My guess would be the 244 number of the ON and that the keel was laid 
in Apr 74 (last 3 of the HIN)
There were 351 of these produced and I would like to know where she 
lies in the production line and any other information included in 
these numbers.


Cheers, sailorjg

Victoria, BC



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Re: Stus-List Production number

[robert via CnC-List]

to Jgnadeau:

Your HIN does not appear to be a valid #..check it again.it 
could be on the the top right hand corner of the transom.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

HIN ZCC32277M84D

   ZCC = C Yachts

   32 = 32' LOA

   277 is the Serial number of the hull, so hull no. 277 of the C 32

   M = model year #

   84 = 1984, the year the construction of the hull was started

   D = April, the month the construction of the hull was started (or at
   least the date the build paperwork was generated)




On 2016-01-27 12:22 PM, Jgnadeau via CnC-List wrote:

Hi All
New to this forum and just bought Callisto, C 35 Mk II.
Quick question: is there a way to determine the hull production 
sequence number from the serial number or official numbers? 
Callisto's are:

HIN: 33Y3627CC474
ON: 32E 24426
My guess would be the 244 number of the ON and that the keel was laid 
in Apr 74 (last 3 of the HIN)
There were 351 of these produced and I would like to know where she 
lies in the production line and any other information included in 
these numbers.


Cheers, sailorjg

Victoria, BC



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Re: Stus-List Production number

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

I bet your hull has been painted at one time so the numbers are hard to read.

My guess would be: CCY352700474

CCY – C Yachts

35 – model (could be 36 too, I’m not sure how they were labeled)

270 – Hull Number (the last number could also be an 8)

0474 – The month and year that the hull was laid up

 

Is there a  stamped plaque somewhere in the cockpit, that would have the model 
and hull number in a slightly different format.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jgnadeau via 
CnC-List
Sent: January-27-16 12:22
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jgnadeau
Subject: Stus-List Production number

 

Hi All

New to this forum and just bought Callisto, C 35 Mk II. 

Quick question: is there a way to determine the hull production sequence number 
from the serial number or official numbers? Callisto's are:

HIN: 33Y3627CC474

ON: 32E 24426

My guess would be the 244 number of the ON and that the keel was laid in Apr 74 
(last 3 of the HIN)



There were 351 of these produced and I would like to know where she lies in the 
production line and any other information included in these numbers.

 

Cheers, sailorjg

Victoria, BC

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6176 / Virus Database: 4522/11496 - Release Date: 01/27/16

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Re: Stus-List C 25 cockpit table

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Mark,

 

Here is a link to a picture of the table base in my cockpit.  You don't want
the table too far forward or it will block the companionway.

 

http://s20.postimg.org/5wxahimxp/DSC_4675.jpg

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: January-27-16 09:49
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 cockpit table

 

Thanks Mike,

 

I was thinking about how to work around the cockpit sculpers as well  as the
bulge pump.  I may just have to move the pump like your friend did.  Thanks
for the tip.

 

Yes, the affordability and simplicity of the 25 is what really attracted me
to the boat, yet it's still very comfortable and capable.  I haven't sailed
it yet as it's in the yard  now getting new rigging and through hulls, but
it may be done this week.  Hopefully I'll be able to have a first sail this
weekend.I don't think I've read a bad thing about this boat.


Mark McMenamy 

"Icicle" C 25

Fort Pierce FL


On Jan 27, 2016, at 8:38 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
wrote:

Mark

 

Our friends with the 1974 25 "Dry Red" modified the cabin table so that it
could also be used in cockpit.  They took the original tube that supports
the table and replaced it with an aluminum tube that was threaded on both
ends.  One end threaded into the receptacle on the underside of the table
and then they replaced the main cabin receptacle and installed another in
cockpit floor that were threaded to receive other end of the tube.  End
result was a very sturdy table both inside and out

 

Andy moved the manual bilge pump in the cockpit from the floor to the sides
and epoxied in place the cockpit receptacle where the original location of
bilge pump was located.

 

The 25 is one of my favourite C of all time.  It has always been
affordable but has offered a whole lot of boat and a whole lot of
capabilities in a smaller affordable package.  At the same time the interior
is very usable for cruising for 2 people and the performance is nice

 

Mike

Persistence

Halifax

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Taillieu via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Taillieu
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

 

Mark,

 

The table was removable on all the C 25s, you may have been thinking of
the Hinterhoeler built Redline 25s, they predated the C 25s and had a
dinette that converted into a berth.  

There's no need to reinforce the cockpit floor, just seal the edges of the
core when you drill the holes for the base and the mounting bolts.

The original base for my table in the cabin broke so I replaced it with the
round base that you can buy at most chandlers. I used the same fitting for
the cockpit.

I had to replace it after about five years out here in salt water.  It
rotted away due to the salt but five years is about the time you would want
to remove it to reseal it anyway.

It's so nice to have a table in the cockpit when you're relaxing after a day
of sailing, just remember that the mount on the table is slightly offset to
one side.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: January-26-16 18:29
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

 

Hi Rick,

 

Thanks for the info!   Did you reinforce the cockpit floor before you added
a post hole for the table?  I was thinking of doing the same thing.  I read
that some 25's came from the factory so the table could be moved.

 

Thanks for the info and the welcome.

 

Mark

Mark McMenamy 

"Icicle" C 25

Fort Pierce FL


On Jan 26, 2016, at 4:42 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List
 wrote:

Mark,

 

Welcome to the list, you'll love your 25.

 

The 25 will hobby horse quite a bit in short chop, especially if you have a
heavy outboard on the back and an anchor on the front.

I have a 25" ELS 4 stroke on my boat and I rarely experience any cavitation
in waves but I do have stress cracks on the transom.  That's what happens
when you replace an 89 pound 2 stroke with a 108 pound 4 stroke.  Mine has a
plywood backing plate glassed into the transom from the factory and I have a
2" thick, one foot square oak spacer between the mount and the transom on
the outside.  The oak spacer is there so I can fully tilt the outboard for
sailing.

 

When I lived on Lake Ontario my wife and I would cruise the Thousand Islands
for 7-10 days every year.  The boat is fine for two to do extended cruises
but it does tend to get small if you're stuck inside in rainy weather.  I
made a boom tent from ripstop nylon that covers the entire cockpit and wraps
over the lifelines.  It gives us shade and allows us to use the cockpit in
all but the 

Re: Stus-List Production number

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Hello, and welcome to the list. 

 

You will find a couple of hundred other C owners her who will gladly handle 
any question you have about your new-to-you classic C 

 

As someone already pointed out, the subject of how to interpret the HIN comes 
up on the list a couple of times a year. You can revisit the past discussions 
by searching the list archives at the C Photo Album – 
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ . You have probably already been to the site 
since you have found this forum.

 

The interpretation of HINs usually gets directed back to the information at the 
following website: http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.htm . There is a 
fairly straightforward explanation of the codes there.

 

As has already been pointed out, the registration number (ON) has nothing to do 
with the ID of the boat, and is like the license plate on your car.

 

As far as the HIN, the one you listed isn’t valid. But you could make some 
guesses about what it should be.

 

C of our vintage all started with the manufacturer code CCY or ZZC, 
depending on when and where built. Since yours is a 35-2, the model should be 
35, not 36.

 

The last 4 digits in the HIN are the date code. According to the USCG 
regulations, that is associated with start of production but we’ve never 
definitely established what triggered the number. In any event, there were two 
formats for the date code before 1984. One format was M***, where M signified 
the model year format, and the next two digits were the model year, and the 
last character was a letter indicating the month when production started.

 

You list a date code of C474, so my guess would be that the date code is really 
0474, and the model year would be 1974.

 

So that leaves the characters 27C for the hull number (production sequence). My 
guess would be that it is actually 270. One of the other listers who has a 74 
or 75 model 35-2 can tell you better than I if that is a good guess or not.

 

You should be able to find the HIN molded into the transom of the boat in 
characters at least ¼” tall near the top, starboard corner of the transom.

 

And, BTW, it is more or less customary (but not universal) to sign your posts 
with information about your boat and where you are located. Sometimes the 
answer to a question can vary depending on where you sail and how you use the 
boat. And frequently owners will chime in with offers for assistance or to let 
you see how their boats are set up if they are in your area.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk2

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jgnadeau via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2016 11:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jgnadeau 
Subject: Stus-List Production number

 

Hi All

New to this forum and just bought Callisto, C 35 Mk II. 

Quick question: is there a way to determine the hull production sequence number 
from the serial number or official numbers? Callisto's are:

HIN: 33Y3627CC474

ON: 32E 24426

My guess would be the 244 number of the ON and that the keel was laid in Apr 74 
(last 3 of the HIN)



There were 351 of these produced and I would like to know where she lies in the 
production line and any other information included in these numbers.

 

Cheers, sailorjg

Victoria, BC

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Re: Stus-List C 25 cockpit table

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Awesome.  Thanks.  My bilge pump is much further back than yours.  My table 
also is offset.  I might have to work a bit to get the proper fit.

Thanks for the shot.

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 27, 2016, at 2:23 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Mark,

Here is a link to a picture of the table base in my cockpit.  You don’t want 
the table too far forward or it will block the companionway.

http://s20.postimg.org/5wxahimxp/DSC_4675.jpg


Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark 
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: January-27-16 09:49
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 cockpit table

Thanks Mike,

I was thinking about how to work around the cockpit sculpers as well  as the 
bulge pump.  I may just have to move the pump like your friend did.  Thanks for 
the tip.

Yes, the affordability and simplicity of the 25 is what really attracted me to 
the boat, yet it's still very comfortable and capable.  I haven't sailed it yet 
as it's in the yard  now getting new rigging and through hulls, but it may be 
done this week.  Hopefully I'll be able to have a first sail this weekend.I 
don't think I've read a bad thing about this boat.

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 27, 2016, at 8:38 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Mark

Our friends with the 1974 25 “Dry Red” modified the cabin table so that it 
could also be used in cockpit.  They took the original tube that supports the 
table and replaced it with an aluminum tube that was threaded on both ends.  
One end threaded into the receptacle on the underside of the table and then 
they replaced the main cabin receptacle and installed another in cockpit floor 
that were threaded to receive other end of the tube.  End result was a very 
sturdy table both inside and out

Andy moved the manual bilge pump in the cockpit from the floor to the sides and 
epoxied in place the cockpit receptacle where the original location of bilge 
pump was located.

The 25 is one of my favourite C of all time.  It has always been affordable 
but has offered a whole lot of boat and a whole lot of capabilities in a 
smaller affordable package.  At the same time the interior is very usable for 
cruising for 2 people and the performance is nice

Mike
Persistence
Halifax
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick 
Taillieu via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Taillieu
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Mark,

The table was removable on all the C 25s, you may have been thinking of the 
Hinterhoeler built Redline 25s, they predated the C 25s and had a dinette 
that converted into a berth.
There’s no need to reinforce the cockpit floor, just seal the edges of the core 
when you drill the holes for the base and the mounting bolts.
The original base for my table in the cabin broke so I replaced it with the 
round base that you can buy at most chandlers. I used the same fitting for the 
cockpit.
I had to replace it after about five years out here in salt water.  It rotted 
away due to the salt but five years is about the time you would want to remove 
it to reseal it anyway.
It’s so nice to have a table in the cockpit when you’re relaxing after a day of 
sailing, just remember that the mount on the table is slightly offset to one 
side.

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark 
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: January-26-16 18:29
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Hi Rick,

Thanks for the info!   Did you reinforce the cockpit floor before you added a 
post hole for the table?  I was thinking of doing the same thing.  I read that 
some 25's came from the factory so the table could be moved.

Thanks for the info and the welcome.

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 4:42 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Mark,

Welcome to the list, you’ll love your 25.

The 25 will hobby horse quite a bit in short chop, especially if you have a 
heavy outboard on the back and an anchor on the front.
I have a 25” ELS 4 stroke on my boat and I rarely experience any cavitation in 
waves but I do have stress cracks on the transom.  That’s what happens when you 
replace an 89 pound 2 stroke with a 108 pound 4 stroke.  Mine has a plywood 
backing plate glassed into the transom from the factory and I have a 2” thick, 
one foot square oak spacer between the mount and the transom on the outside.  
The oak spacer is there so I can fully 

Stus-List Cockpit table?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Hmmm, interesting.

<
http://www.chinamarinewholesale.com/disassembled-boat-oval-table-with-table-pedestal-and-base-plate-stowable-fixed-height_p466.html
>

Dennis C.
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Re: Stus-List C 25 cockpit table

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks Mike,

I was thinking about how to work around the cockpit sculpers as well  as the 
bulge pump.  I may just have to move the pump like your friend did.  Thanks for 
the tip.

Yes, the affordability and simplicity of the 25 is what really attracted me to 
the boat, yet it's still very comfortable and capable.  I haven't sailed it yet 
as it's in the yard  now getting new rigging and through hulls, but it may be 
done this week.  Hopefully I'll be able to have a first sail this weekend.I 
don't think I've read a bad thing about this boat.

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 27, 2016, at 8:38 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Mark

Our friends with the 1974 25 “Dry Red” modified the cabin table so that it 
could also be used in cockpit.  They took the original tube that supports the 
table and replaced it with an aluminum tube that was threaded on both ends.  
One end threaded into the receptacle on the underside of the table and then 
they replaced the main cabin receptacle and installed another in cockpit floor 
that were threaded to receive other end of the tube.  End result was a very 
sturdy table both inside and out

Andy moved the manual bilge pump in the cockpit from the floor to the sides and 
epoxied in place the cockpit receptacle where the original location of bilge 
pump was located.

The 25 is one of my favourite C of all time.  It has always been affordable 
but has offered a whole lot of boat and a whole lot of capabilities in a 
smaller affordable package.  At the same time the interior is very usable for 
cruising for 2 people and the performance is nice

Mike
Persistence
Halifax
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick 
Taillieu via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Taillieu
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Mark,

The table was removable on all the C 25s, you may have been thinking of the 
Hinterhoeler built Redline 25s, they predated the C 25s and had a dinette 
that converted into a berth.
There’s no need to reinforce the cockpit floor, just seal the edges of the core 
when you drill the holes for the base and the mounting bolts.
The original base for my table in the cabin broke so I replaced it with the 
round base that you can buy at most chandlers. I used the same fitting for the 
cockpit.
I had to replace it after about five years out here in salt water.  It rotted 
away due to the salt but five years is about the time you would want to remove 
it to reseal it anyway.
It’s so nice to have a table in the cockpit when you’re relaxing after a day of 
sailing, just remember that the mount on the table is slightly offset to one 
side.

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark 
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: January-26-16 18:29
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Hi Rick,

Thanks for the info!   Did you reinforce the cockpit floor before you added a 
post hole for the table?  I was thinking of doing the same thing.  I read that 
some 25's came from the factory so the table could be moved.

Thanks for the info and the welcome.

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 4:42 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Mark,

Welcome to the list, you’ll love your 25.

The 25 will hobby horse quite a bit in short chop, especially if you have a 
heavy outboard on the back and an anchor on the front.
I have a 25” ELS 4 stroke on my boat and I rarely experience any cavitation in 
waves but I do have stress cracks on the transom.  That’s what happens when you 
replace an 89 pound 2 stroke with a 108 pound 4 stroke.  Mine has a plywood 
backing plate glassed into the transom from the factory and I have a 2” thick, 
one foot square oak spacer between the mount and the transom on the outside.  
The oak spacer is there so I can fully tilt the outboard for sailing.

When I lived on Lake Ontario my wife and I would cruise the Thousand Islands 
for 7-10 days every year.  The boat is fine for two to do extended cruises but 
it does tend to get small if you’re stuck inside in rainy weather.  I made a 
boom tent from ripstop nylon that covers the entire cockpit and wraps over the 
lifelines.  It gives us shade and allows us to use the cockpit in all but the 
worst rain storms.  I also put a mount for the table in the cockpit floor so we 
can eat and entertain outside of the main cabin.  I made a plywood board that 
fits across the cabinets at the main hatchway.  It serves as a great bar and a 
place to place for the stove when cooking so the heat stays out of the cabin.

Give me a shout if you have any specific questions about how to set up your 25, 
I know the boats 

Re: Stus-List C 25 cockpit table

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Mark

Our friends with the 1974 25 "Dry Red" modified the cabin table so that it 
could also be used in cockpit.  They took the original tube that supports the 
table and replaced it with an aluminum tube that was threaded on both ends.  
One end threaded into the receptacle on the underside of the table and then 
they replaced the main cabin receptacle and installed another in cockpit floor 
that were threaded to receive other end of the tube.  End result was a very 
sturdy table both inside and out

Andy moved the manual bilge pump in the cockpit from the floor to the sides and 
epoxied in place the cockpit receptacle where the original location of bilge 
pump was located.

The 25 is one of my favourite C of all time.  It has always been affordable 
but has offered a whole lot of boat and a whole lot of capabilities in a 
smaller affordable package.  At the same time the interior is very usable for 
cruising for 2 people and the performance is nice

Mike
Persistence
Halifax
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick 
Taillieu via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Taillieu
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Mark,

The table was removable on all the C 25s, you may have been thinking of the 
Hinterhoeler built Redline 25s, they predated the C 25s and had a dinette 
that converted into a berth.
There's no need to reinforce the cockpit floor, just seal the edges of the core 
when you drill the holes for the base and the mounting bolts.
The original base for my table in the cabin broke so I replaced it with the 
round base that you can buy at most chandlers. I used the same fitting for the 
cockpit.
I had to replace it after about five years out here in salt water.  It rotted 
away due to the salt but five years is about the time you would want to remove 
it to reseal it anyway.
It's so nice to have a table in the cockpit when you're relaxing after a day of 
sailing, just remember that the mount on the table is slightly offset to one 
side.

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark 
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: January-26-16 18:29
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Hi Rick,

Thanks for the info!   Did you reinforce the cockpit floor before you added a 
post hole for the table?  I was thinking of doing the same thing.  I read that 
some 25's came from the factory so the table could be moved.

Thanks for the info and the welcome.

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 4:42 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Mark,

Welcome to the list, you'll love your 25.

The 25 will hobby horse quite a bit in short chop, especially if you have a 
heavy outboard on the back and an anchor on the front.
I have a 25" ELS 4 stroke on my boat and I rarely experience any cavitation in 
waves but I do have stress cracks on the transom.  That's what happens when you 
replace an 89 pound 2 stroke with a 108 pound 4 stroke.  Mine has a plywood 
backing plate glassed into the transom from the factory and I have a 2" thick, 
one foot square oak spacer between the mount and the transom on the outside.  
The oak spacer is there so I can fully tilt the outboard for sailing.

When I lived on Lake Ontario my wife and I would cruise the Thousand Islands 
for 7-10 days every year.  The boat is fine for two to do extended cruises but 
it does tend to get small if you're stuck inside in rainy weather.  I made a 
boom tent from ripstop nylon that covers the entire cockpit and wraps over the 
lifelines.  It gives us shade and allows us to use the cockpit in all but the 
worst rain storms.  I also put a mount for the table in the cockpit floor so we 
can eat and entertain outside of the main cabin.  I made a plywood board that 
fits across the cabinets at the main hatchway.  It serves as a great bar and a 
place to place for the stove when cooking so the heat stays out of the cabin.

Give me a shout if you have any specific questions about how to set up your 25, 
I know the boats very well.

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During our 
sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.  I'll be 
using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets here in FL, 
but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low tide with and 
easterly wind.

I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking of 
going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.  It's just 
my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's a little over 100 nm 
to get down there.

Thanks again for the info.

Mark



Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort 

Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Thanks All for the tips

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of William 
Walker via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 4:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole


Mike,
I did the sole replacement two years ago on my 36.  Some thoughts.
  I used router with round over bit on back side to get proper radius.
  I epoxied both sides, using foam roller.  Slow cure west system.  Good base.
  I overdrilled fastener holes and filled with thickened epoxy, then redrilled. 
 These holes are where water intrusion frequently starts.
  I varnished 8 coats, light sanding between.  Again, foam roller worked well.
  Though I used the old floor as template, when epoxy and varnish added a 
couple sections were tight, though they fit, they squeaked a bit and I ended up 
sanding and redoing several edges.  Leaves enough room for the finishes you 
choose.
   I think your work space needs some heat.  I wouldn't varnish at 50 degrees.  
Don't forget the boards may be colder than that if temps dip at times in that 
space.
   Good luck.  Makes boat look new.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi


Sent from AOL Mobile Mail


On Tuesday, January 26, 2016 Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> wrote:
I am replacing the original sole on Persistence.  It was ¾ inch teak and holly 
and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet.  Thankfully especially since 
the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes!

I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and Holly and 
noted a few things that time that I may do differently

My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in my 
garage already.  It was screwed in place with countersunk screws which I also 
plan to do with the replacement.  Once cut out the piece and all the niches are 
cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both the underside and the top of the 
sole with one coat of epoxy.  Following that there will be up to 6 coats of 
epiphanes on the top of the sole

Epoxy on wood:
The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow evenly.  I 
believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than slow hardener.  I have 
never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on wood so will again start with the 
underside to see how this works out.  Any comments on the levelling properties 
and techniques with epoxy would be welcomed.  I plan to use West with the slow 
hardener.   If the epoxy on the underside looks good I will then put one coat 
on top of sole as a base before the varnish.  It is my intention to do this 
over the winter in my garage which is in the basement of my house but not 
heated.  Temperatures are typically around 10 degrees Celcius (50F)

Varnish over epoxy:
On the J27 I made one small mistake.  The sole in the J27 was comprised of 
several panels and I did not think to line up the holly stripes between the two 
main halves.  It bothered only me but will not occur this time when I cut out 
the panel that is forward near head compartment.  With no epoxy under the 
varnish and a wet boat like the J27 I found that stowing wet or damp spin and 
jib sheets on the sole in the head area discoloured the varnish and even the 
wood itself.  On top of that some mildew worked its way into the finish from 
this.  After year one the sheets had hooks to hang on but the damage, although 
superficial, was done.  Am assuming that the epoxy layer beneath several coats 
of varnish will prevent this discolouration in the event a wet item spends 
significant time on the sole.  Any comments on this?  Persistence is quite dry 
inside but some water does come down the mast and pool occasionally on the sole.

Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are there any 
other pearls of wisdom before I start this project?  It seems a relatively 
simple project but also one where  a misstep will be very obvious for years to 
come …

Mike
Persistence
Halifax

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Stus-List A little sunshine for our Northern friends.

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/24279447679/in/dateposted-public/

Nice Shot taken by my friend / wed nite crew / other series' GoPro during 
a race a couple weekends ago. Gotta love the Southeast winters :-) 

Stay warm ! 


PS, Don't be alarmed, my mast is not bent forward and I did not have a 
huge forestay sag.. Those are artifacts created by the GoPro fish eye lens 
and the angle. You can also see my friends' backstay "impossibly" curved 
upward under load.. 

Regards, 

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia



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