Re: Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Petar, were it me, I'd purchase some 1/2" fiberglass from McMaster-Carr and run 
a strip directly underneath the jib track and use balsa for the remainder. 
Should help with compression/water intrusion issues. Just my random thoughts...

Dave
1982 C 37 - Ronin

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 8, 2016, at 09:40, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> So I did some digging over the weekend and I can say few things regarding 
> deck and core along the genoa tracks for C mk2 from 1976.
> Top laminate is 3/16” thick.  Balsa is ½”.
> In my case, wet areas are pretty extensive.  Tapping and sounding the top got 
> me to mark out a big rectangular area.  It extends from about 2” inboard of 
> the genoa track and its about 12” wide.  It runs the length of the track. 
> There is a 4” wide section of marine ply (also 1/2” thick) under the track 
> itself.I wonder if I do the same or just keep balsa.
> I posted some horrifying photos on cruisers forum.  Warning, pics are pretty 
> disturbing.
> http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2039627#post2039627
> Haven’t done the bevel yet, and still have about an hour to get all the rot 
> out. 
> As I said on CF, I’ll do epoxy repairs and use the double bias stitch mat and 
> toss out the top laminate.   I’ve had enough of polyester.  Its porous 
> nowhere near as strong, and if you go to trouble of doing this much work, 
> might as well not skimp out on material.  The big question is how to 
> transition to gelcoat again? 
> The cutout is the length of the track so I am not worried about genoa cars 
> getting stuck on the track due to deck transitions.
>  
> Petar Horvatic
> Sundowner
> 76 C 38MkII
> On the hard at Stanley’s in Barrington
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2016 1:23 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Hoyt, Mike
> Subject: Re: Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas
>  
> Petar
>  
> This link shows a recoring project on our former boat 
> http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt/Projects/recore/recore.htm
>  
> Initially we had 4 stanchions that had cracked deck (not just gelcoat) at the 
> stanchion bases.  The first year I recored these four areas only.  The link 
> above details that job.  The following year I had a surveyor check out the 
> entire deck and hull for moisture.  We noted the wet areas (all on the decks) 
> and replaced the core in all remaining wet areas except the cockpit seats 
> (done another year).  This project involved replacing the core under the 
> genoa tracks and also under the primary winches among the 14 areas of 
> problem. 
>  
> When I replace core material I never save the top skin.  However I do know a 
> lot of people do and that is your option.  Most of the wet areas on a deck 
> are in non skid areas so it is very easy to rebuild your own top skin and I 
> find that process a whole lot simpler.  This is my preference but not 
> necessarily better nor worse than keeping the top skin and reusing.  The two 
> benefits of not reusing top skin are 1. It is more work to remove the top 
> skin than to discard it and 2. You may get air voids under the replaced top 
> skin if not done well.  The benefits of retaining the top skin are that you 
> have the contours of the deck area saved.  This is nice on a coach roof for 
> example
>  
> When I start removing the core I normally drill some pilot holes to determine 
> how far the wetness and the rot extends.  Typically the rot is localized but 
> the moisture travels quite far.  I cut out the area that I know is wet and 
> then if I am still in wet core I continue removing until I get to dry core.  
> Note that wet core is not soft.  Rotten core is soft.  Wet balsa can actually 
> still adhere quite well to the bottom and top skin and be strong.  However 
> why would you leave it?  It is not much more work to replace core in a 1 x 4 
> ft section of deck than it is a 6” by 2 ft section.
>  
> For an idea of the labour involved compare to a bottom job.  Nut Case our J27 
> took 50 hours to strip the bottom to gel coat (by hand), apply barrier coat 
> and then antifoul.  By comparison was only 30 hours to replace four sections 
> of core material that same year.
>  
> Note that I have done this job using polyester resins (large areas and cost) 
> as well as epoxy. 
>  
> If you have any questions do not hesitate to ask. 
>  
> Mike
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar 
> Horvatic via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2016 12:45 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Petar Horvatic
> Subject: Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas
>  
> Hi all,
> I am getting ready to tackle the wet deck along the port genoa track and 
> before I start cutting, I  have few questions for the group. 
>  
> Gelcoat cracks and delamination is appearing almost the length of the track 
> on my 38 Mk2.   I 

Re: Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Peter,

When we (the yard) re-did the side decks on my 35-3, they used divyncell
high density foam.  It has the good compression resistance you need under
the track and will not rot.

Tim

On Mon, Feb 8, 2016 at 9:40 AM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> So I did some digging over the weekend and I can say few things regarding
> deck and core along the genoa tracks for C mk2 from 1976.
>
> Top laminate is 3/16” thick.  Balsa is ½”.
>
> In my case, wet areas are pretty extensive.  Tapping and sounding the top
> got me to mark out a big rectangular area.  It extends from about 2”
> inboard of the genoa track and its about 12” wide.  It runs the length of
> the track.
>
> There is a 4” wide section of marine ply (also 1/2” thick) under the track
> itself.I wonder if I do the same or just keep balsa.
>
> I posted some horrifying photos on cruisers forum.  Warning, pics are
> pretty disturbing.
>
> http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2039627#post2039627
>
> Haven’t done the bevel yet, and still have about an hour to get all the
> rot out.
>
> As I said on CF, I’ll do epoxy repairs and use the double bias stitch mat
> and toss out the top laminate.   I’ve had enough of polyester.  Its porous
> nowhere near as strong, and if you go to trouble of doing this much work,
> might as well not skimp out on material.  The big question is how to
> transition to gelcoat again?
>
> The cutout is the length of the track so I am not worried about genoa cars
> getting stuck on the track due to deck transitions.
>
>
>
> Petar Horvatic
>
> Sundowner
>
> 76 C 38MkII
>
> On the hard at Stanley’s in Barrington
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Hoyt,
> Mike via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 03, 2016 1:23 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas
>
>
>
> Petar
>
>
>
> This link shows a recoring project on our former boat
> http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt/Projects/recore/recore.htm
>
>
>
> Initially we had 4 stanchions that had cracked deck (not just gelcoat) at
> the stanchion bases.  The first year I recored these four areas only.  The
> link above details that job.  The following year I had a surveyor check out
> the entire deck and hull for moisture.  We noted the wet areas (all on the
> decks) and replaced the core in all remaining wet areas except the cockpit
> seats (done another year).  This project involved replacing the core under
> the genoa tracks and also under the primary winches among the 14 areas of
> problem.
>
>
>
> When I replace core material I never save the top skin.  However I do know
> a lot of people do and that is your option.  Most of the wet areas on a
> deck are in non skid areas so it is very easy to rebuild your own top skin
> and I find that process a whole lot simpler.  This is my preference but not
> necessarily better nor worse than keeping the top skin and reusing.  The
> two benefits of not reusing top skin are 1. It is more work to remove the
> top skin than to discard it and 2. You may get air voids under the replaced
> top skin if not done well.  The benefits of retaining the top skin are that
> you have the contours of the deck area saved.  This is nice on a coach roof
> for example
>
>
>
> When I start removing the core I normally drill some pilot holes to
> determine how far the wetness and the rot extends.  Typically the rot is
> localized but the moisture travels quite far.  I cut out the area that I
> know is wet and then if I am still in wet core I continue removing until I
> get to dry core.  Note that wet core is not soft.  Rotten core is soft.
> Wet balsa can actually still adhere quite well to the bottom and top skin
> and be strong.  However why would you leave it?  It is not much more work
> to replace core in a 1 x 4 ft section of deck than it is a 6” by 2 ft
> section.
>
>
>
> For an idea of the labour involved compare to a bottom job.  Nut Case our
> J27 took 50 hours to strip the bottom to gel coat (by hand), apply barrier
> coat and then antifoul.  By comparison was only 30 hours to replace four
> sections of core material that same year.
>
>
>
> Note that I have done this job using polyester resins (large areas and
> cost) as well as epoxy.
>
>
>
> If you have any questions do not hesitate to ask.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Petar Horvatic via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 03, 2016 12:45 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Petar Horvatic
> *Subject:* Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas
>
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I am getting ready to tackle the wet deck along the port genoa track and
> before I start cutting, I  have few questions for the group.
>
>
>
> Gelcoat cracks and delamination is appearing almost the length of the
> track on my 38 Mk2.   I realize that not all spider 

Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I wonder if anyone is installing/using solid fuel cabin heaters
nowadays?  Alianna came to me with a Cole stove mounted on the Port
cabin bulkhead right beside the mast...charcoal briquettes throw off a
good heat and it's sort of like having a little fireplace inside the
boat, some ambiance in addition to nice heat, but I must admit I have
only use it a few times when living aboard on cool damp nights.
Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 9:26 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List
 wrote:
> Tom,
>
> Calypso has had a Webasto T90 for 16 years.  Late last year it needed its 
> first tune up.  We use the Webasto all year, even cruising in summer to take 
> the evening chill off.  We did install a "summer" valve that allows use to 
> stop the hot water flow to the cabin heat exchangers but have rarely used it.
>
> The T90 is able to make the boat's cabin as warm as we can stand.  From a 
> ambient 55/60F to 70F takes about 20 minutes.
>
> Installation was a 1/2 DIY, 1/2 tech from Sure Marine.  We purchased the Sure 
> Marine installation package that included step by step instructions and many 
> of the needed fittings.
>
> The current draw is highest at start up.  After the coolant is at temp the 
> number fans (on high or low, 3 locations) and a circulation pump are the main 
> current draw.  Calypso's house bank is 4 6v batteries and the furnace can 
> typically run 4 to 5 hours without a charging session.  Running less heat 
> exchangers/fans may extend the time.
>
> For domestic hot water we installed an "Everhot" heat exchanger that acts 
> like a coolant reservoir and heats the water for galley and shower use.  We 
> are able to make as much hot water as what is in the boat's tanks.
>
> Most of the DIY installation time was running the coolant hoses and 
> installing the heat exchangers.  We had the pros perform the finish plumbing, 
> wiring, and run the exhaust.  The furnace itself is compact but the overflow 
> tank and the Everhot tank take up some lazerette space.  We ran the hoses 
> thru the bilge.  The fuel has its own feed direct from the tank.
>
> Martin
> Calypso
> 1971 C 43
> Seattle
>
> 
> From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Tom Buscaglia via 
> CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2016 7:48 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Tom Buscaglia
> Subject: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation
>
> Speaking of diesel heaters, ever since we brought Alera out from Lake Ontario 
> I have wanted to install a hydronic heater so that in addition to heat we 
> would have hot water.  So, every year when I go to the Seattle Boat show I 
> gather materials and every the the amount of boat bucks, and my fear of 
> screwing the installation up makes me put it off another year.
>
> Anyone have a hydronic setup?
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
>> On Feb 5, 2016, at 4:24 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>>
>> Message: 8
>> Date: Fri, 05 Feb 2016 16:23:56 -0800
>> From: Russ & Melody 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation
>> Message-ID:
>>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
>>
>>
>> Hi Steve,
>>
>> I should have listed install location in the
>> "Cons:" list of the Newport heater. It can be tricky.
>>
>> The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead
>> unit. The D2 has a huge advantage on heat output
>> on low settings, not to be overlooked. The
>> Admiral & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.
>>
>> Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank
>> location with proper venting is the same for
>> both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. The
>> tank can be almost anywhere for either unit and
>> if elevation is such that gravity feed is not
>> going to work for the bulkhead heater then you
>> get a little impulse pump similar to what the
>> Espar uses. I would see about putting the tank in
>> the cockpit combing area, that's high enough and
>> easy to fit a deck fill to keep everything
>> outside. Either heater would like a 2 - 4 gallon
>> tank since you're looking at up to 1 gallon a day
>> use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the D2.
>>
>> On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for
>> retirement cruising I will have both types of
>> heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)
>>
>> Cheers, Russ
>> Sweet 35 mk-1
>> Vancouver Island
>>
>>
>> At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:
>>> Thanks for the helpful replies, all.
>>>
>>> Russ, I really love the idea of the newport
>>> heaters, to be honest, I like the idea of solid
>>> fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my
>>> favourite things. But the only units worth
>>> getting are expensive 

Re: Stus-List C 30 Equipment List

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Very cool.  Thanks for sharing...  I'd be curious to how they did the
shower.

On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 4:36 PM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I was organizing papers and came across the original Standard and Optional
> Equipment list for my C 30. Interesting to read:
>
>
> https://www.docdroid.net/6FjEscQ/standardoptionaleqlist.pdf.html
> 
> StandardOptionalEqList.pdf
> 
> www.docdroid.net
> View and download StandardOptionalEqList.pdf on DocDroid
>
> Cheers,
> Aaron R.
> Admiral Maggie,
> 1979 C 30 MK1 #540
> Annapolis, MD
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

Nice thing about coal is that it's really dry heat.  No water given off during 
the process.RonWild CheriSTLC 30


  From: Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Richard N. Bush 
 Sent: Monday, February 8, 2016 7:31 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation
   
Dwight; like yours, my boat came with a Dickerson Newport model solid fuel 
heater..although we don't get too many really cold night during the summer, and 
the boat is winterized for winter, I still haven't had the nerve to fire it up 
yet...but it looks very nice on the bulkhead!   Any suggestions about getting 
over the fear of lighting a fire in the middle of the cabin?    And, if that 
works, there's the matter of the CNG stove Richard1985 C 37; Ohio River, 
Mile 596;
 Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
  ___

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Re: Stus-List C 30 Equipment List

[Joseph Bognar via CnC-List]

There is a small sump ( depression ) in the floor in the head . The pressure 
hot and cold water was on a retractable hose that was attached to the sink tap 
. I think you would sit on the head or stand with a curtain around the head . I 
have seen the sump arrangement but not the enclosure 
Sent from Joe Bognar


> On Feb 8, 2016, at 9:01 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Very cool.  Thanks for sharing...  I'd be curious to how they did the shower.
> 
>> On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 4:36 PM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I was organizing papers and came across the original Standard and Optional 
>> Equipment list for my C 30. Interesting to read:
>> 
>> 
>> https://www.docdroid.net/6FjEscQ/standardoptionaleqlist.pdf.html
>> 
>> 
>> StandardOptionalEqList.pdf
>> www.docdroid.net
>> View and download StandardOptionalEqList.pdf on DocDroid
>> Cheers,
>> Aaron R.
>> Admiral Maggie,
>> 1979 C 30 MK1 #540
>> Annapolis, MD
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
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Re: Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Agree with Martin. I would replace any wet wood; plywood or teak or oak with a 
more modern, non organic solution. 
I like solid glass sheet products for wet locations and starboard or expanded 
PVC sheet for above deck stuff. My logic is driven by the "Let's not ever have 
to do his again" approach. I like to use balsa in coring the deck to keep it 
light, but other woods don't belong on a boat. 

Chuck 



- Original Message -

From: "Martin DeYoung via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Martin DeYoung"  
Sent: Monday, February 8, 2016 2:05:36 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas 



When faced with similar decision regarding how to replace wet plywood I went 
with solid epoxy/glass cloth in the high load areas. The area immediately 
around the mast is also full of fasteners (halyard blocks, cleats, etc.) so 
replacing a ply or balsa core with epoxy/glass should reduce the chance that a 
future owner will be faced with failed core even if a bolt hole leaks. In less 
loaded areas I matched the original balsa but paid close attention to wetting 
the kerfs and edges with epoxy. All the fastener holes will be over drilled and 
filled with epoxy. 



Calypso’s designers and builders (Bruckmann’s custom shop) called for plywood 
around the mast collar. When I opened up that area the 44 year old plywood was 
very wet but only rotten in a few areas. Owing to the high halyard and rig 
loads in the area I chose to replace the plywood with a lay-up of epoxy, bi-ax 
+ mat, cloth, and epoxy board. I tapered the solid epoxy/glass into the balsa 
cored area (also new balsa) outward until all the wet/failed core was replaced. 



As I have access to a supply of thin epoxy board I made up a pattern of the 
repair area and laid up two “U” shaped inserts that worked much like purchasing 
3/8” thick epoxy board. (For a visual, think a thinish toilet seat cut in half 
long ways.) I custom shaped the inner and outer edges to the repair area (much 
like a dentist shapes a tooth for a crown). 



The full repair lay-up session took at least ½ gallon resin, 2 people, and 5 
hours. I used vacuum bag and mechanical means to hold the layers in place. To 
gain the full replacement thickness it took 8 to 10 layers of 25+OZ bi-ax + mat 
along with my pre-fabbed insert. 



I do expect to hear some interesting pops and cracks the first time we fully 
power Calypso up under sail as the new epoxy/glass takes its first full load. I 
also expect the hull/deck will feel stiffer than it has been in years. 




Martin DeYoung 

Calypso 

1971 C 43 

Seattle 







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar 
Horvatic via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2016 6:41 AM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Petar Horvatic 
Subject: Re: Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas 




So I did some digging over the weekend and I can say few things regarding deck 
and core along the genoa tracks for C mk2 from 1976. 

Top laminate is 3/16” thick. Balsa is ½”. 

In my case, wet areas are pretty extensive. Tapping and sounding the top got me 
to mark out a big rectangular area. It extends from about 2” inboard of the 
genoa track and its about 12” wide. It runs the length of the track. 

There is a 4” wide section of marine ply (also 1/2” thick) under the track 
itself. I wonder if I do the same or just keep balsa. 

I posted some horrifying photos on cruisers forum. Warning, pics are pretty 
disturbing. 

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2039627#post2039627 


Haven’t done the bevel yet, and still have about an hour to get all the rot 
out. 

As I said on CF, I’ll do epoxy repairs and use the double bias stitch mat and 
toss out the top laminate. I’ve had enough of polyester. Its porous nowhere 
near as strong, and if you go to trouble of doing this much work, might as well 
not skimp out on material. The big question is how to transition to gelcoat 
again? 

The cutout is the length of the track so I am not worried about genoa cars 
getting stuck on the track due to deck transitions. 



Petar Horvatic 

Sundowner 

76 C 38MkII 

On the hard at Stanley’s in Barrington 



___ 

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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I would think twice, three times, and four times before adding any kind of 
combustion heater to a gasoline powered boat. Not only can the heater itself 
suck gasoline fumes into itself, any of the associated controls and fans might 
or might not be ignition protected. I know, like every other C ever made with 
an Atomic 4, I cook below with an open flame, but that is a bit different. Most 
of us would not start the stove if we smelled gasoline fumes and most of us are 
not leaving the stove run all night while we sleep.
If I were to do this, I would start by having the heater well away from the 
engine and mounted as high as possible. Make sure the heater is about the LAST 
place in the boat gas fumes would end up.
Second step would be to install a gasoline fume detector and make sure it is on 
whenever the heater is on.
Third step is do rig your engine to run the gas out of the carb at shutdown. 
When I am done with the engine for the day I switch off my electric fuel pump 
and let the engine run the gas out of the carb and line. This prevents the 
issue of a stuck needle-valve slowly filling the carb overnight and dispersing 
fumes. A side benefit is the carb lasts much much longer before it needs 
cleaning.

Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham 
Collins via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2016 19:23
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Graham Collins
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

Hi Bill
It might be worth contacting Espar about it, I don't think that should be 
running like that.  The D5 I'm running is a fair sized unit, and startup has 
never been a big power hit.


Graham Collins

Secret Plans

C 35-III #11
On 2016-02-06 5:17 PM, William Walker via CnC-List wrote:

Graham,
   Your thoughts would appreciated on start up draw.  Prior owner installed in 
port Lazarette.  He is particular guy, all looks well done, but he told me 
about current draw and starting engine to get it going.  After its running 
seems to do fine off twin house batteries.
Bill Walker
CnC  36
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail


On Saturday, February 6, 2016 Graham Collins via CnC-List 
> wrote:
The Espar has an air intake hose, so provided the end of the hose is clear of 
any fumes you are good to go.  You could connect that through 'to the main 
cabin if you wanted for enhanced piece of mind.  If you have flammable vapor in 
your main cabin then all bets are off...

And these things are pretty miserly, I might go through a gallon or two while 
working on the boat in the winter.  So a tiny fuel tank would be adequate.

I'm surprised at Bill's comment about startup draw, I run mine off batteries 
all the time and have never had an issue.

Graham Collins

Secret Plans

C 35-III #11
On 2016-02-06 1:45 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
I'm reading the marine installation 
manual
 and have some questions:

- Under safety it reads: "The position of the combustion air must not allow 
exhaust fumes or flammable vapour to be drawn in". I have a gasoline tank in my 
engine compartment. Does this preclude me from installing one of these?

- Can anyone recommend a suitable fuel tank? I'de like something small that I 
can top off from a jerry can, so I can secure it into place in the lazarette. 5 
gallons maybe? What are others using if using a separate tank?

Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa 
> wrote:
Hi Russ,

I figure with the newport, the tank is inside the cabin (somewhere behind the 
bulkhead I would imagine, hanging locker on my boat likely). With the 
espar/webasto, it's in the engine compartment. Also with the newport, this is 
pretty much how i have to mount it:
http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg

Starboard I have a dinette and of course the mast. Port side isn't optimal 
either. Now that I'm thinking about the tank actually, and the venting, I'm not 
really sure where I'de locate a tank for the newport.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 7:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Hi Steve,

I should have listed install location in the "Cons:" list of the Newport 
heater. It can be tricky.

The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead unit. The D2 has a huge 
advantage on heat output on low settings, not to be overlooked. The Admiral & I 
are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.

Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank location with proper venting is 
the same for both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. The tank can be 
almost anywhere for either unit and if elevation is such that 

Re: Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

So I did some digging over the weekend and I can say few things regarding deck 
and core along the genoa tracks for C mk2 from 1976.

Top laminate is 3/16” thick.  Balsa is ½”.

In my case, wet areas are pretty extensive.  Tapping and sounding the top got 
me to mark out a big rectangular area.  It extends from about 2” inboard of the 
genoa track and its about 12” wide.  It runs the length of the track.  

There is a 4” wide section of marine ply (also 1/2” thick) under the track 
itself.I wonder if I do the same or just keep balsa. 

I posted some horrifying photos on cruisers forum.  Warning, pics are pretty 
disturbing. 

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2039627#post2039627

Haven’t done the bevel yet, and still have about an hour to get all the rot 
out.  

As I said on CF, I’ll do epoxy repairs and use the double bias stitch mat and 
toss out the top laminate.   I’ve had enough of polyester.  Its porous nowhere 
near as strong, and if you go to trouble of doing this much work, might as well 
not skimp out on material.  The big question is how to transition to gelcoat 
again?  

The cutout is the length of the track so I am not worried about genoa cars 
getting stuck on the track due to deck transitions. 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

On the hard at Stanley’s in Barrington

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2016 1:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas

 

Petar

 

This link shows a recoring project on our former boat 
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt/Projects/recore/recore.htm

 

Initially we had 4 stanchions that had cracked deck (not just gelcoat) at the 
stanchion bases.  The first year I recored these four areas only.  The link 
above details that job.  The following year I had a surveyor check out the 
entire deck and hull for moisture.  We noted the wet areas (all on the decks) 
and replaced the core in all remaining wet areas except the cockpit seats (done 
another year).  This project involved replacing the core under the genoa tracks 
and also under the primary winches among the 14 areas of problem.  

 

When I replace core material I never save the top skin.  However I do know a 
lot of people do and that is your option.  Most of the wet areas on a deck are 
in non skid areas so it is very easy to rebuild your own top skin and I find 
that process a whole lot simpler.  This is my preference but not necessarily 
better nor worse than keeping the top skin and reusing.  The two benefits of 
not reusing top skin are 1. It is more work to remove the top skin than to 
discard it and 2. You may get air voids under the replaced top skin if not done 
well.  The benefits of retaining the top skin are that you have the contours of 
the deck area saved.  This is nice on a coach roof for example

 

When I start removing the core I normally drill some pilot holes to determine 
how far the wetness and the rot extends.  Typically the rot is localized but 
the moisture travels quite far.  I cut out the area that I know is wet and then 
if I am still in wet core I continue removing until I get to dry core.  Note 
that wet core is not soft.  Rotten core is soft.  Wet balsa can actually still 
adhere quite well to the bottom and top skin and be strong.  However why would 
you leave it?  It is not much more work to replace core in a 1 x 4 ft section 
of deck than it is a 6” by 2 ft section.

 

For an idea of the labour involved compare to a bottom job.  Nut Case our J27 
took 50 hours to strip the bottom to gel coat (by hand), apply barrier coat and 
then antifoul.  By comparison was only 30 hours to replace four sections of 
core material that same year.

 

Note that I have done this job using polyester resins (large areas and cost) as 
well as epoxy.  

 

If you have any questions do not hesitate to ask.  

 

Mike

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar 
Horvatic via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2016 12:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Petar Horvatic
Subject: Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas

 

Hi all,

I am getting ready to tackle the wet deck along the port genoa track and before 
I start cutting, I  have few questions for the group.  

 

Gelcoat cracks and delamination is appearing almost the length of the track on 
my 38 Mk2.   I realize that not all spider cracks are due to wet core, but 
there is some strong indication that at least  ¾ section of geona track area is 
rotten.   Namely, top deck is noticeably indented along the track from 
compression of backing plate and track screws.  I also remember that water was 
coming out of the tracks in areas where track was under load.Especially 
area in the aft section.  I pulled the track off last night and there is strong 
oxidation along the aluminum backing plate where ss washers and 

Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

Dwight; like yours, my boat came with a Dickerson Newport model solid fuel 
heater..although we don't get too many really cold night during the summer, and 
the boat is winterized for winter, I still haven't had the nerve to fire it up 
yet...but it looks very nice on the bulkhead!   Any suggestions about getting 
over the fear of lighting a fire in the middle of the cabin?And, if that 
works, there's the matter of the CNG stove
 

Richard
1985 C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596;


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 
 
-Original Message-
From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: dwight veinot 
Sent: Mon, Feb 8, 2016 7:51 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

I wonder if anyone is installing/using solid fuel cabin heaters
nowadays?  Alianna came to me with a Cole stove mounted on the Port
cabin bulkhead right beside the mast...charcoal briquettes throw off a
good heat and it's sort of like having a little fireplace inside the
boat, some ambiance in addition to nice heat, but I must admit I have
only use it a few times when living aboard on cool damp nights.
Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



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Re: Stus-List Gori vs MaxProp

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

Have you considered Kiwi prop? I don’t have the first hand experience, but the 
tests suggest that it is in the middle of the pack for prop walk and reverse 
pull and it is, usually, substantially cheaper than the Gori or Max-Prop.

And, as usual, the best is to check the actual test results, e.g. here: 
http://www.yachtingmonthly.com/gear/folding-and-feathering-propeller-test-29807.
 Please be aware that the original test was done in 2009, though I am not sure 
if much has changed since. The same test is available as a PDF from Flexofold 
web site (here: http://www.flexofold.com/test-results/). I guess they liked 
what they saw there.

Marek

From: Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, February 8, 2016 12:17
To: Chuck S via CnC-List 
Cc: Jim Reinardy 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gori vs MaxProp

Chuck,

 

I had a 2 blade Gori on my Catalina, the gears were a lot more exposed on that 
model.  This one, they are out in the open but not nearly so prominent.  
Maintenance is no more than any other folding prop as far as I can tell.  
Primarily zinc replacement and a good cleaning once in a while at least in 
fresh water.

 

Prop walk can be an advantage, though it never seemed to be the right direction 
for us for the slips we have been in.  The Gori definitely has far less of it 
compared to the Martec it replaced.

 

Jim

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Chuck S via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, February 7, 2016 4:57 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Cc: Chuck S
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gori vs MaxProp

 

Jim, 

I liked the engineering on the Gori, but didn't like all the exposed gears.  
Maybe your model is different than what I looked at?  What's the annual 
maintenance like?

IIRC, I was told prop walk is caused by the angle of the shaft, and you should 
have it with any prop if your shaft is angled down like most keelboats.  A 
saildrive has the least propwalk, because the shaft is level.  Propwalk is not 
a bad thing.  It helps turn the boat and can be a big help when docking.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md





From: "Jim Reinardy via CnC-List" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Jim Reinardy" 
Sent: Sunday, February 7, 2016 2:49:29 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3


I went through this same process last year.  I was very interested in the 
MaxProp until I talked to a friend of mine who raved about his Gori 3-blade.  I 
looked into it and wound up buying a Gori 3-blade for our 30-2 as well.  It’s a 
unique design where the blades reverse, providing full performance in reverse 
as well as a 2nd more aggressive pitch for cruising.  It eliminated our prop 
walk and has performed very well for us.  Lower drag when folded compared to 
the MaxProp.  No connection to any of the companies, but thought I would add 
another name to the search list.



Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2016 4:59 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3



I have a Max-Prop and have enjoyed the consistent operation and quality of 
engineering which went into it.  If I were in the market for a prop I would 
seriously consider a flex-fold.  As I understand it there is no pitch to set 
and IIRC many of the components are plastic.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
Yanmar 3HM35F - Max-Prop

On Feb 5, 2016 6:59 PM, "Sam Wheeler via CnC-List"  
wrote:

  Thanks again to everyone for sharing your experiences.  Sounds like a 
Max-Prop is the gold standard.  On the other hand, it looks like those retail 
for a non-trivial percentage of what I paid for the entire boat.  Plus ongoing 
maintenance costs.  Is it worth it?



  On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 3:28 PM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I had a Martec when I purchased the boat, and soon replaced it with a two 
blade 16" Maxprop. If I were to do it again, I would go with a three blade 
Maxprop. Less vibration.



Doug Allardyce

C 35-III

"BULLET"

Detroit

_/)~~~_/)

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Jake 
Brodersen via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, February 05, 2016 5:55 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Jake Brodersen
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

  Sam,



  My Martec doesn’t like to turn at slow speeds. I can actually feel the 
blades flopping around if I’m near idle speed.  It’s not a big issue, but the 
prop does have some favorite rpm ranges.  Mine is now about 12 years old and 
has never been rebuilt.  I only average about 50 hours a year motoring though.



  Jake

Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

The scupper thru-hulls were the only ones I left alone on Suhana. I
replaced all else with seacocks, new backing plates and new thru-hulls.
Like yours, mine were flush mounted. The stuff on the market is smaller so
I filled the remaining gap with thickened epoxy, mostly successful (looks a
bit off but you barely notice). I would recommend just filling the counter
sunk hole and mounting standard mushroom thru-hulls, seems easier and more
straightforward.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 7:44 PM, Rick Bushie via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Anchovy got all new through hull fittings and proper seacocks four years
> ago. I bought everything, including flush fitting through hulls from Deep
> Blue Yacht Supply. I used a small diamond cutting wheel on my Rotozip to
> cut out the old fittings.
>
> Rick Bushie
> Anchovy, 30-1, Hull 1
> Worton, MD.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Anyone score any C shirts from the Craigslist guy?

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

 Jack; I don't know that...I heard about him on this list...

 


Richard
1985 C 37 CB; Mile 596


Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
To: C 
Cc: Jack Fitzgerald 
Sent: Mon, Feb 8, 2016 4:07 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone score any C shirts from the Craigslist guy?


Richard,


How do find this guy's link on Craig's list?



 
___

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Re: Stus-List Anyone score any C shirts from the Craigslist guy?

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

 Jack; I don't know that...I heard about him on this list...
 
Richard
1985 C 37 CB; Mile 596

Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
To: C 
Cc: Jack Fitzgerald 
Sent: Mon, Feb 8, 2016 4:07 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone score any C shirts from the Craigslist guy?

Richard,
How do find this guy's link on Craig's list?
 ___

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Re: Stus-List Gori vs MaxProp

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Chuck,

I had a 2 blade Gori on my Catalina, the gears were a lot more exposed on that 
model.  This one, they are out in the open but not nearly so prominent.  
Maintenance is no more than any other folding prop as far as I can tell.  
Primarily zinc replacement and a good cleaning once in a while at least in 
fresh water.

Prop walk can be an advantage, though it never seemed to be the right direction 
for us for the slips we have been in.  The Gori definitely has far less of it 
compared to the Martec it replaced.

Jim

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Chuck S via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, February 7, 2016 4:57 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Cc: Chuck S
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gori vs MaxProp

Jim,
I liked the engineering on the Gori, but didn't like all the exposed gears.  
Maybe your model is different than what I looked at?  What's the annual 
maintenance like?

IIRC, I was told prop walk is caused by the angle of the shaft, and you should 
have it with any prop if your shaft is angled down like most keelboats.  A 
saildrive has the least propwalk, because the shaft is level.  Propwalk is not 
a bad thing.  It helps turn the boat and can be a big help when docking.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

- Original Message -

From: "Jim Reinardy via CnC-List" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Jim Reinardy" 
Sent: Sunday, February 7, 2016 2:49:29 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3



I went through this same process last year.  I was very interested in the 
MaxProp until I talked to a friend of mine who raved about his Gori 3-blade.  I 
looked into it and wound up buying a Gori 3-blade for our 30-2 as well.  It’s a 
unique design where the blades reverse, providing full performance in reverse 
as well as a 2 nd more aggressive pitch for cruising.  It eliminated our prop 
walk and has performed very well for us.  Lower drag when folded compared to 
the MaxProp.  No connection to any of the companies, but thought I would add 
another name to the search list.



Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2016 4:59 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3



I have a Max-Prop and have enjoyed the consistent operation and quality of 
engineering which went into it.  If I were in the market for a prop I would 
seriously consider a flex-fold.  As I understand it there is no pitch to set 
and IIRC many of the components are plastic.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
Yanmar 3HM35F - Max-Prop


On Feb 5, 2016 6:59 PM, "Sam Wheeler via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote:




Thanks again to everyone for sharing your experiences.  Sounds like a Max-Prop 
is the gold standard.  On the other hand, it looks like those retail for a 
non-trivial percentage of what I paid for the entire boat.  Plus ongoing 
maintenance costs.  Is it worth it?





On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 3:28 PM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:




I had a Martec when I purchased the boat, and soon replaced it with a two blade 
16" Maxprop. If I were to do it again, I would go with a three blade Maxprop. 
Less vibration.





Doug Allardyce

C 35-III

"BULLET"

Detroit

_/)~~~_/)



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of Jake 
Brodersen via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2016 5:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jake Brodersen
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3


Sam,



My Martec doesn’t like to turn at slow speeds. I can actually feel the blades 
flopping around if I’m near idle speed.  It’s not a big issue, but the prop 
does have some favorite rpm ranges.  Mine is now about 12 years old and has 
never been rebuilt.  I only average about 50 hours a year motoring though.



Jake



Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA







From: CnC-List [mailto: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of Sam 
Wheeler via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 5, 2016 16:13
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sam Wheeler < samwheeler.s...@gmail.com >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3




Thanks, everyone!





Tim and Dave, you mentioned issues getting the Martec to open at low revs.  
Would a short boost to high revs when you start the engine solve that issue?





Sam









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Re: Stus-List Gori vs MaxProp vs Kiwi

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

I have a Kiwi-prop, installed 2008 when I changed 
out the A4 to an old Yanmar QM20. I like it.


Chosen in part because I could swing the largest 
diameter due to the way blades are mounted. Tip 
clearance took advantage of the way the buttock 
lines sweep up a lot in the area. A few extra 
inches in (new) shaft length and I got a 17" prop down there. :)


The thing is a beast in reverse because it goes 
full pitch (no adjustable stops) so I typically 
just go a few boats lengths at most and pop into 
neutral if I have to travel further back.
Great customer support if dealing with John in 
New Zealand. I suggest going direct and giving a 
pass on the Canadian distributor if you choose a Kiwi-prop.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 -1
Vancouver Island

At 09:46 AM 08/02/2016, you wrote:
Have you considered Kiwi prop? I don’t have 
the first hand experience, but the tests suggest 
that it is in the middle of the pack for prop 
walk and reverse pull and it is, usually, 
substantially cheaper than the Gori or Max-Prop.


And, as usual, the best is to check the actual 
test results, e.g. here: 
http://www.yachtingmonthly.com/gear/folding-and-feathering-propeller-test-29807. 
Please be aware that the original test was done 
in 2009, though I am not sure if much has 
changed since. The same test is available as a 
PDF from Flexofold web site (here: 
http://www.flexofold.com/test-results/). 
I guess they liked what they saw there.


Marek

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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Electric fuel pump switch.
Brilliant!

Thanks Joe!
I've decided on the Newport Diesel bulkhead job. It's going to end up
looking something like this (thought the heater in the pic is the propane
version):

http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg
with a day tank up and behind in the hanging locker.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Mon, Feb 8, 2016 at 9:36 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I would think twice, three times, and four times before adding any kind of
> combustion heater to a gasoline powered boat. Not only can the heater
> itself suck gasoline fumes into itself, any of the associated controls and
> fans might or might not be ignition protected. I know, like every other C
> ever made with an Atomic 4, I cook below with an open flame, but that is a
> bit different. Most of us would not start the stove if we smelled gasoline
> fumes and most of us are not leaving the stove run all night while we
> sleep.
>
> If I were to do this, I would start by having the heater well away from
> the engine and mounted as high as possible. Make sure the heater is about
> the LAST place in the boat gas fumes would end up.
>
> Second step would be to install a gasoline fume detector and make sure it
> is on whenever the heater is on.
>
> Third step is do rig your engine to run the gas out of the carb at
> shutdown. When I am done with the engine for the day I switch off my
> electric fuel pump and let the engine run the gas out of the carb and line.
> This prevents the issue of a stuck needle-valve slowly filling the carb
> overnight and dispersing fumes. A side benefit is the carb lasts much much
> longer before it needs cleaning.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Graham
> Collins via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Sunday, February 07, 2016 19:23
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Graham Collins
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation
>
>
>
> Hi Bill
>
> It might be worth contacting Espar about it, I don't think that should be
> running like that.  The D5 I'm running is a fair sized unit, and startup
> has never been a big power hit.
>
> Graham Collins
>
> Secret Plans
>
> C 35-III #11
>
> On 2016-02-06 5:17 PM, William Walker via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Graham,
>Your thoughts would appreciated on start up draw.  Prior owner
> installed in port Lazarette.  He is particular guy, all looks well done,
> but he told me about current draw and starting engine to get it going.
> After its running seems to do fine off twin house batteries.
> Bill Walker
> CnC  36
> Pentwater, Mi
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>
>
> --
>
> On Saturday, February 6, 2016 Graham Collins via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> The Espar has an air intake hose, so provided the end of the hose is clear
> of any fumes you are good to go.  You could connect that through 'to the
> main cabin if you wanted for enhanced piece of mind.  If you have flammable
> vapor in your main cabin then all bets are off...
>
> And these things are pretty miserly, I might go through a gallon or two
> while working on the boat in the winter.  So a tiny fuel tank would be
> adequate.
>
> I'm surprised at Bill's comment about startup draw, I run mine off
> batteries all the time and have never had an issue.
>
> Graham Collins
>
> Secret Plans
>
> C 35-III #11
>
> On 2016-02-06 1:45 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I'm reading the marine installation manual
> 
> and have some questions:
>
>
>
> - Under safety it reads: "The position of the combustion air must not
> allow exhaust fumes or flammable vapour to be drawn in". I have a gasoline
> tank in my engine compartment. Does this preclude me from installing one of
> these?
>
>
>
> - Can anyone recommend a suitable fuel tank? I'de like something small
> that I can top off from a jerry can, so I can secure it into place in the
> lazarette. 5 gallons maybe? What are others using if using a separate tank?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Steve
>
> Suhana, C 32
>
> Toronto
>
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa 
> wrote:
>
> Hi Russ,
>
>
>
> I figure with the newport, the tank is inside the cabin (somewhere behind
> the bulkhead I would imagine, hanging locker on my boat likely). With the
> espar/webasto, it's in the engine compartment. Also with the newport, this
> is pretty much how i have to mount it:
>
>
> http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg
>
>
>
> Starboard I have a dinette and of course the mast. Port side isn't optimal
> either. Now that I'm thinking about the tank actually, and the venting, I'm
> not really sure where I'de locate a tank for the newport.
>
>
>
> Steve
>
> Suhana, C 32
>
> 

Re: Stus-List Anyone score any C shirts from the Craigslist guy?

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

 Joe, I bought 5 polo shirts...haven't opened them up yet...I guess I'd 
better...so they can air out!

 The guy was very nice to work with and sent the shirts as promised...he even 
emailed photos so I could pick out the colors I wanted.



Richard
1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;

Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Sent: Mon, Feb 8, 2016 2:25 pm
Subject: Stus-List Anyone score any C shirts from the Craigslist guy?



I got 2 jackets, a fleece, a sweater, a long sleeve shirt, and some polo shirts 
for me and the family. Really nice stuff once you wash it, they all had an odd 
smell from sitting around.
Joe
Coquina


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Re: Stus-List Anyone score any C shirts from the Craigslist guy?

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

I attempted to contact the seller by email but was unsuccessful.  Do either of 
you know good contact info, email or phone?

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2016 11:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard N. Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone score any C shirts from the Craigslist guy?

Joe, I bought 5 polo shirts...haven't opened them up yet...I guess I'd 
better...so they can air out!
The guy was very nice to work with and sent the shirts as promised...he even 
emailed photos so I could pick out the colors I wanted.
Richard
1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Sent: Mon, Feb 8, 2016 2:25 pm
Subject: Stus-List Anyone score any C shirts from the Craigslist guy?
I got 2 jackets, a fleece, a sweater, a long sleeve shirt, and some polo shirts 
for me and the family. Really nice stuff once you wash it, they all had an odd 
smell from sitting around.
Joe
Coquina

___



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Re: Stus-List Anyone score any C shirts from the Craigslist guy?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Text 571-501-2661



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
DeYoung via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2016 14:48
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Martin DeYoung
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone score any C shirts from the Craigslist guy?

I attempted to contact the seller by email but was unsuccessful.  Do either of 
you know good contact info, email or phone?

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2016 11:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard N. Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone score any C shirts from the Craigslist guy?

Joe, I bought 5 polo shirts...haven't opened them up yet...I guess I'd 
better...so they can air out!
The guy was very nice to work with and sent the shirts as promised...he even 
emailed photos so I could pick out the colors I wanted.
Richard
1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
>
Cc: Della Barba, Joe >
Sent: Mon, Feb 8, 2016 2:25 pm
Subject: Stus-List Anyone score any C shirts from the Craigslist guy?
I got 2 jackets, a fleece, a sweater, a long sleeve shirt, and some polo shirts 
for me and the family. Really nice stuff once you wash it, they all had an odd 
smell from sitting around.
Joe
Coquina

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Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Exactly as per my previous post.

In my case I discovered the odd-sized flush mount thru-hulls once the boat was 
out of the water. So there wasn’t any option of waiting around for some 
far-distant supplier to ship. I had to go with what was available locally. If 
you have the luxury of pre-ordering and can find ones of the correct size then 
go for it. If not then  adapt!

Also keep in mind not all thu-hulls and ball valves are created equal. I’d say 
don’t skimp and save a few bucks on off-shore “generic” product. Or be like the 
(supposedly) professional who replaced the valves on my boat with Home Depot 
specials!

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C 27 MkIII


From: Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2016 10:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Stevan Plavsa ; Rick Bushie 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

The scupper thru-hulls were the only ones I left alone on Suhana. I replaced 
all else with seacocks, new backing plates and new thru-hulls. Like yours, mine 
were flush mounted. The stuff on the market is smaller so I filled the 
remaining gap with thickened epoxy, mostly successful (looks a bit off but you 
barely notice). I would recommend just filling the counter sunk hole and 
mounting standard mushroom thru-hulls, seems easier and more straightforward. 

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto



On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 7:44 PM, Rick Bushie via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Anchovy got all new through hull fittings and proper seacocks four years ago. 
I bought everything, including flush fitting through hulls from Deep Blue Yacht 
Supply. I used a small diamond cutting wheel on my Rotozip to cut out the old 
fittings.

  Rick Bushie
  Anchovy, 30-1, Hull 1
  Worton, MD.

  Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Anyone score any C shirts from the Craigslist guy?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

The long sleeve was standard, the polos a bit large. I usually wear XL, but the 
XL polos were big on me until I washed them in hot water.
Joe

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2016 8:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stevan Plavsa
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone score any C shirts from the Craigslist guy?

Here's the ad:
http://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/5418846062.html

You can search all of craigslist here:
http://www.adhuntr.com/

Are you guys finding the sizes pretty standard?

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Mon, Feb 8, 2016 at 6:46 PM, Sam Wheeler via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Does anyone have photos of the stuff he has available?  I'm mostly trying to 
get rid of things rather than add more as I get ready to move aboard, but I'm 
intrigued.

Sam
C 35 mk III
SF

On Mon, Feb 8, 2016 at 1:48 PM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Thanks Richard,

Bill Coleman sent me the guy's phone number.

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald - Vice President export department
Fitzgerald Forwarding Co. Inc. FMC license no:1966F
260 Oatland Island Road, Savannah, GA 31410 USA
Tel. no: 912 898.1069 - Fax no: 912 
898.9458 - 24/7 mobile number: 912 
441.2296
Email*: j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com
www.fitzgeraldforwarding.com


*PLEASE REMOVE honeys...@aol.com FROM YOUR ADDRESS 
BOOK AND IMMEDIATELY ADD 
j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com


On Mon, Feb 8, 2016 at 4:42 PM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Jack; I don't know that...I heard about him on this list...

Richard
1985 C 37 CB; Mile 596

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
>
To: C >
Cc: Jack Fitzgerald 
>
Sent: Mon, Feb 8, 2016 4:07 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone score any C shirts from the Craigslist guy?
Richard,

How do find this guy's link on Craig's list?


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Re: Stus-List Anyone score any C shirts from the Craigslist guy?

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Is this the guy?

http://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/5418846062.html

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C 27 MkIII

From: Sam Wheeler via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2016 3:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Sam Wheeler 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone score any C shirts from the Craigslist guy?

Does anyone have photos of the stuff he has available?  I'm mostly trying to 
get rid of things rather than add more as I get ready to move aboard, but I'm 
intrigued. 

Sam
C 35 mk III
SF

On Mon, Feb 8, 2016 at 1:48 PM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Thanks Richard, 

  Bill Coleman sent me the guy's phone number.

  Best regards,
  Jack Fitzgerald - Vice President export department
  Fitzgerald Forwarding Co. Inc. FMC license no:1966F
  260 Oatland Island Road, Savannah, GA 31410 USA
  Tel. no: 912 898.1069 - Fax no: 912 898.9458 - 24/7 mobile number: 912 
441.2296 
  Email*: j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com
  www.fitzgeraldforwarding.com


  *PLEASE REMOVE honeys...@aol.com FROM YOUR ADDRESS BOOK AND IMMEDIATELY ADD 
j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com


  On Mon, Feb 8, 2016 at 4:42 PM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Jack; I don't know that...I heard about him on this list...


Richard
1985 C 37 CB; Mile 596


Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
To: C 
Cc: Jack Fitzgerald 
Sent: Mon, Feb 8, 2016 4:07 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone score any C shirts from the Craigslist guy?


Richard, 

How do find this guy's link on Craig's list?




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