Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Patrick,



I followed the Riveted blog last summer as my father-in-law was on the same 
trip to Alaska in his classic Monk designed power boat.



The guys at PYI should be able to confirm if the increased potential for 
contact with oil is a concern.  That is something I have not faced as all of my 
shaft seal installations were well clear of engine oil.



I have used the PYI shaft seal on 3 different boats over 30 years.  I do follow 
the maintenance recommendations but I also have gone over 10 years on a 
bellows.  I typically change the bellows during a normally scheduled haul out 
in the 7 to 8 year range.  I closely inspect the shaft seal and burp it if the 
boat has not been used for a few months to be sure it is moving freely and has 
water for lube.



On rare occasions, mostly confused seas along with higher boat speeds I have 
experienced a shaft seal heating up slightly and starting to squeak.  A quick 
burp of the seal and all was well.  Calypso's shaft seal is the type with out 
the vent that I have seen on some newer installations.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C

Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Patrick Davin via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 8:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Patrick Davin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

Thanks, it's definitely sounding like the way to go. I'm just extra cautious 
when it comes to something enclosing a big hole in the boat. And I like simple 
systems, and the PSS is definitely more complex than a traditional stuffing 
box. But it sounds like PYI's 6 year recommendation is just them being extra 
conservative.

Part of my worry about installing a more complex shaft seal arose from a local 
PNW blog report I read last year:
http://www.riveted-blog.com/2015/08/excitement-at-sea.html
http://www.riveted-blog.com/2015/08/hauling-out-in-juneau.html

They suspected their PSS shaft seal of overheating. But they're a motor boat 
(so faster speeds), and in the end (in the 2nd post) they found the issue might 
have actually been an engine misalignment. I see Martin actually commented on 
the 1st one, about needing to burp the seal sometimes. If that's the only 
complication I need to know, then I'm happy with that.

-Patrick

On Sun, Apr 24, 2016 at 1:49 PM, 
> wrote:

-- Forwarded message --
From: Robert Boyer >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Patrick Davin >
Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2016 14:42:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38
I've used a PSS shaft seal on my boat for the last 20 years and I'd never go 
back to a packing gland.  I changed mine out at the 10 year point and it looked 
like it had plenty of life left at that time.  Don't overthink this!

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)


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Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

Thanks, it's definitely sounding like the way to go. I'm just extra
cautious when it comes to something enclosing a big hole in the boat. And I
like simple systems, and the PSS is definitely more complex than a
traditional stuffing box. But it sounds like PYI's 6 year recommendation is
just them being extra conservative.

Part of my worry about installing a more complex shaft seal arose from a
local PNW blog report I read last year:
http://www.riveted-blog.com/2015/08/excitement-at-sea.html
http://www.riveted-blog.com/2015/08/hauling-out-in-juneau.html

They suspected their PSS shaft seal of overheating. But they're a motor
boat (so faster speeds), and in the end (in the 2nd post) they found the
issue might have actually been an engine misalignment. I see Martin
actually commented on the 1st one, about needing to burp the seal
sometimes. If that's the only complication I need to know, then I'm happy
with that.

-Patrick

On Sun, Apr 24, 2016 at 1:49 PM,  wrote:

>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Robert Boyer 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Patrick Davin 
> Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2016 14:42:39 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38
> I've used a PSS shaft seal on my boat for the last 20 years and I'd never
> go back to a packing gland.  I changed mine out at the 10 year point and it
> looked like it had plenty of life left at that time.  Don't overthink this!
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
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Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Except perhaps for the injector pump to cylinder hoses (which are likely 
metal), any diesel fuel hose of the correct size will likely work fine. 


A word of warning--these hoses are notorious for variations between the OD and 
ID so do not assume that if your hose is marked 5/16" on the outside that the 
inside diameter (ID)
will match your fittings. 


Depending on your hose source, a 5/16" OD hose could have a variety of 
IDs--some wall thicknesses are greater than others but this number is often not 
noted on the outside of the hose.


If the hose is going on barbed fittings, some to this can be made up by the 
hose clamps (double always IMHO). However, a thick-walled 5/16" hose may never 
go over a 1/4" barb fitting.


Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C 36 XL/kcb


cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Sent: Sun, Apr 24, 2016 7:11 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions



Sounds like someone took the time to have hydraulic hoses  made for the purpose 
of carrying fuel.  Yes, some bleeding on the supply side will probably be 
needed.  The air tends to collect in the tops of filters.
Josh 
On Apr 24, 2016 6:09 PM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List"  
wrote:


Thanks for chiming in guys.  The lines currently are pre-made with what look 
like flare fittings on the end.   The hose is coveted in some kind of sleeve 
that looks and geeks like fabric.  They are permeating pretty badly and making 
the whole boat smell like diesel.


I'm guessing there is more to replacing these houses than just swapping them 
out.  Some bleeding? 


I see that 1/4 is stamped on the fitting.  I'm sure that's identifying size.


Danny







Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

 Original message 
From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List  
Date: 4/24/2016  4:53 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Jake Brodersen  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions 



Danny,
 
If we’re talking about rubber fuel lines, yes, any lines that meet the marine 
spec for the fuel you use (diesel or gas) will work.  
Most rubber fuel hoses don’t use fittings, although I have seen some premade 
one that do use crimped on fittings.  More information would be useful.
 
Jake
 
Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
 
 
 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 09:27
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

 

Hi guys,  

 

I need to replace my 1/4 inch fuel supply and return lines.  

Should I buy pre made fuel lines or could I just buy fuel hose and  fittings so 
I can cut to length? 

 

What word be a good source fir fuel lines? 

 

Danny

 

 

 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device



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Re: Stus-List Sliding hatch details

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Which reminds me, I have a pair of brand new really nice teak hatch
slides.  They aren't for any particular boat.  Pictures and measurements to
any interested parties.  Pricing will be reasonable.  Shipping - who knows.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sun, Apr 24, 2016 at 6:55 PM, Charles Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It appears that my sliding hatch is leaking--water drips from if when it
> rains, etc. After 21 years and multiple wire runs for instruments, etc.,
> etc.  I no longer remember how this hatch was in its original, non-leaking
> state.
> Currently it simply slides on 1 x 2" teak (?) boards which are mounted on
> the coach roof under the 'cover' of both the sliding and fixed hatch. Water
> is presumably to flow off both hatches thru limber holes in this cover to
> the coach roof.
>  Initially there may have been guides attached to the teak boards but
> these may have either disintegrated or been destroyed over the years per
> para above.
> My question for the list, esp. 1990 and later C 36 XL, R or + models is
> does your sliding hatch have guides to keep the sliding plexi/lexan hatch
> 'centered' on the teak boards and/or is there something else that is part
> of the sliding hatch assembly that prevents water ingress.
>
> Thanks
>
> Charlie Nelson
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
>
>
>
>
>
> Noted
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak

[John Sandford via CnC-List]

Get a few rolls of Teflon pipe tape.
Or better still buy some round Teflon cord gasket material. Like o ring
material but Teflon. Used for valve stem packing
Figure out a way to put some upwards tension on the throughhull, to
basically pull the outside flange hard against the hull.
Make sure the bilge pumps are working, and have someone standing by on the
Whale.
There will be some water coming in during this operation, but no worse than
cleaning a knotmeter paddlewheel.
Slacken off the throughhull nut, till you have enough space to wrap the
Teflon pipe tape, or cord underneath the nut and tight up against the
throughull thread.
Tighten the nut to compress the Teflon and form a seal where the throughhull
penetrates the hull.
It will get you through the summer.
Yes I have done it.
Good luck

John



-Original Message-
From: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net [mailto:mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net] 
Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 7:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak

Unfortunately my leak seems to be between the hull and the throughhull.  

The water in Lake Ontario is a bit nippy for me to take a splash and my
marina crane is pretty busy with launches these days. 

Still thinking...

Mike 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.


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Re: Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

It is existing. I was a bit nervous to try that today...will attempt early this 
week. I have a plug handy...  


Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

-Original Message-
From: Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
Sender: "CnC-List" 
Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2016 23:50:58 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Fountain
Subject: Re: Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak

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Stus-List Sliding hatch details

[Charles Nelson via CnC-List]

It appears that my sliding hatch is leaking--water drips from if when it rains, 
etc. After 21 years and multiple wire runs for instruments, etc., etc.  I no 
longer remember how this hatch was in its original, non-leaking state. 
Currently it simply slides on 1 x 2" teak (?) boards which are mounted on the 
coach roof under the 'cover' of both the sliding and fixed hatch. Water is 
presumably to flow off both hatches thru limber holes in this cover to the 
coach roof. 
 Initially there may have been guides attached to the teak boards but these may 
have either disintegrated or been destroyed over the years per para above.
My question for the list, esp. 1990 and later C 36 XL, R or + models is does 
your sliding hatch have guides to keep the sliding plexi/lexan hatch 'centered' 
on the teak boards and/or is there something else that is part of the sliding 
hatch assembly that prevents water ingress.

Thanks

Charlie Nelson
1995 C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom




 
Noted

Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Mike,

Any chance to tighten the thru hull?

Is it new or was it an existing?

Sent from Outlook Mobile




On Sun, Apr 24, 2016 at 3:48 PM -0700, "Michael Crombie via CnC-List" 
> wrote:

Unfortunately my leak seems to be between the hull and the throughhull.

The water in Lake Ontario is a bit nippy for me to take a splash and my marina 
crane is pretty busy with launches these days.

Still thinking...

Mike
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Sounds like someone took the time to have hydraulic hoses  made for the
purpose of carrying fuel.  Yes, some bleeding on the supply side will
probably be needed.  The air tends to collect in the tops of filters.

Josh
On Apr 24, 2016 6:09 PM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Thanks for chiming in guys.  The lines currently are pre-made with what
> look like flare fittings on the end.   The hose is coveted in some kind of
> sleeve that looks and geeks like fabric.  They are permeating pretty badly
> and making the whole boat smell like diesel.
>
> I'm guessing there is more to replacing these houses than just swapping
> them out.  Some bleeding?
>
> I see that 1/4 is stamped on the fitting.  I'm sure that's identifying
> size.
>
> Danny
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>  Original message 
> From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
> Date: 4/24/2016 4:53 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Jake Brodersen 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
> Danny,
>
>
>
> If we’re talking about rubber fuel lines, yes, any lines that meet the
> marine spec for the fuel you use (diesel or gas) will work.
>
> Most rubber fuel hoses don’t use fittings, although I have seen some
> premade one that do use crimped on fittings.  More information would be
> useful.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Danny
> Haughey via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Sunday, April 24, 2016 09:27
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Danny Haughey 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
>
>
> Hi guys,
>
>
>
> I need to replace my 1/4 inch fuel supply and return lines.
>
> Should I buy pre made fuel lines or could I just buy fuel hose and
>  fittings so I can cut to length?
>
>
>
> What word be a good source fir fuel lines?
>
>
>
> Danny
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Unfortunately my leak seems to be between the hull and the throughhull.  

The water in Lake Ontario is a bit nippy for me to take a splash and my marina 
crane is pretty busy with launches these days. 

Still thinking...

Mike 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

I had a leak on my newly installed transducer on launch.  Swapping out the plug 
and replacing it with the actual transducer solved that.  I'll get new o-rings 
for the (brand new) blanking plug and try again.  It might be worth a try if 
the leak is through the housing rather than outside.

Tim
Ex C 35-3

> On Apr 24, 2016, at 12:22 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Is it leaking between the hull and the thruhull or between the transducer and 
> the thruhull?
> 
> If the transducer is removable and has O ring seals it is possible to remove 
> and clean or replace the O rings while afloat.
> 
> Martin
> Calypso
> 1971 C 43
> Seattle
> 
> From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Michael Crombie 
> via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 8:00 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net
> Subject: Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak
> 
> Launch was Friday, went smoothly. Yesterday when I came down I noticed water 
> in the bilge and traced it to a leaking depth transducer throughhull.
> 
> Is there a fix for this to get me through the season?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike
> Atacama. 33mkii
> Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
> Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue

[Dave via CnC-List]

Can't find my as of yet uninstalled replacement, but I believe it is a beckson 
siphon-Mate

http://www.beckson.com/109PC.html

Dave.

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 18, 2016, at 12:57 PM, davidjaco...@comcast.net wrote:
> 
> Any idea where it's available from. I need to replace mine and the ones I 
> find are all too long.
> 
> Dave J
> "Saltaire"
> C 35 MK 3
> 
> Bristol, RI
> 
> From: "Dave via CnC-List" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "Dave" 
> Sent: Monday, April 18, 2016 12:47:00 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue
> 
> The manual pump is original. Still available.  
> 
> Dave 33-2 windstar
> 
> 
> Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2016 11:22:22 -0300
> From: 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> My C7C33ii has a small manually operated pump attached to the cooler drain 
> and can be pumped into the galley sink.  I have no idea if this is original 
> or was installed by a PO.
> 
> As for the head, do you mean the sink won?t drain or the head itself?
> 
> Mike Amirault
> C Lovely Cruise
> SMSC NS.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
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Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Thanks for chiming in guys.  The lines currently are pre-made with what look 
like flare fittings on the end.   The hose is coveted in some kind of sleeve 
that looks and geeks like fabric.  They are permeating pretty badly and making 
the whole boat smell like diesel.
I'm guessing there is more to replacing these houses than just swapping them 
out.  Some bleeding? 
I see that 1/4 is stamped on the fitting.  I'm sure that's identifying size.
Danny


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: Jake 
Brodersen via CnC-List  Date: 4/24/2016  4:53 PM  
(GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Jake Brodersen  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions 
Danny, If we’re talking about rubber fuel lines, yes, any lines that meet the 
marine spec for the fuel you use (diesel or gas) will work.  Most rubber fuel 
hoses don’t use fittings, although I have seen some premade one that do use 
crimped on fittings.  More information would be useful. Jake Jake BrodersenC 
35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”Hampton VA   From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 09:27
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions Hi guys,   I need to replace my 
1/4 inch fuel supply and return lines.  Should I buy pre made fuel lines or 
could I just buy fuel hose and  fittings so I can cut to length?  What word be 
a good source fir fuel lines?  Danny   Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Danny,

 

If we’re talking about rubber fuel lines, yes, any lines that meet the marine 
spec for the fuel you use (diesel or gas) will work.  

Most rubber fuel hoses don’t use fittings, although I have seen some premade 
one that do use crimped on fittings.  More information would be useful.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 09:27
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

 

Hi guys,  

 

I need to replace my 1/4 inch fuel supply and return lines.  

Should I buy pre made fuel lines or could I just buy fuel hose and  fittings so 
I can cut to length? 

 

What word be a good source fir fuel lines? 

 

Danny

 

 

 

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

___

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Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Patrick,

 

The PSS seal is a great upgrade.  I’d never go back.  Mine is a bit past the 
ten year mark and still looks like new.  Shiny black and quite pliable.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Patrick 
Davin via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 12:40
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Patrick Davin 
Subject: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

 

Sorry for so many questions, but I bit off a bit much on this haul-out... and I 
searched the list archives but didn't find much discussion of alternate 
stuffing boxes. 

 

My stuffing box is also seized and the packing needs to be replaced. On the 
LF38 the stuffing box is under the engine oil pan (v-drive configuration) with 
only 4-5" clearance to the sides for a wrench. I haven't found any wrench that 
fits yet. A prior owner recommended 3" C-clamps, and those work, sort of, but I 
can't get enough leverage - even hammering on it the seized locking nut hasn't 
budged. 

 

I'm starting to think that if I finish dropping the rudder this weekend then I 
should just pull the prop shaft (partially, because my cutless bearing doesn't 
need replacing) and get a new stuffing box. 

 

I know Wally swapped his out for a new Buck Algonquin nut style one - the same 
as the original but a slightly nicer newer model, and less corroded obviously. 

 

Unfortunately it looks like Buck Algonquin doesn't make the gland style packing 
box (with 4 bolts that are easily adjustable in tight spaces) for prop shafts 
smaller than 1 1/4" (ours is 1 1/8"). That design would be my preference. 

 

PSS dripless is about the same price though, and tempting... except for two 
caveats: 

 

- replacement schedule of the rubber belows is recommended at 6 to 10 years. I 
don't like that the rubber looks less durable than the 5-ply hose which should 
last 20 years. I could accept this shortcoming though, especially if it's 10 
years. 

- PSS warns against having oil, fuel or any petroleum products contacting the 
belows. LF38 stuffing box is below the engine's oil pan. Oil or fuel is going 
to drip on it at some point! Even if you're pretty meticulous about leaks. I 
emailed PSS about this but haven't heard back.

 

I could build a baffle / catch tray of some sorts, and just check it regularly. 
Has anyone else installed one in tight quarters and/or below an engine, and has 
it been a good decision?

 

-Patrick

1984 C Landfall 38

Seattle, WA

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Cut to length.  Any chandlery should be able to supply USCG approved, fire
resistant, fuel hose.  It is critical to avoid/prevent leaks on the suction
side.  Double hose clamp.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 24, 2016 9:28 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Hi guys,

I need to replace my 1/4 inch fuel supply and return lines.
Should I buy pre made fuel lines or could I just buy fuel hose and
 fittings so I can cut to length?

What word be a good source fir fuel lines?

Danny



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

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Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I've used a PSS shaft seal on my boat for the last 20 years and I'd never go 
back to a packing gland.  I changed mine out at the 10 year point and it looked 
like it had plenty of life left at that time.  Don't overthink this!

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On Apr 24, 2016, at 12:39 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Sorry for so many questions, but I bit off a bit much on this haul-out... and 
> I searched the list archives but didn't find much discussion of alternate 
> stuffing boxes. 
> 
> My stuffing box is also seized and the packing needs to be replaced. On the 
> LF38 the stuffing box is under the engine oil pan (v-drive configuration) 
> with only 4-5" clearance to the sides for a wrench. I haven't found any 
> wrench that fits yet. A prior owner recommended 3" C-clamps, and those work, 
> sort of, but I can't get enough leverage - even hammering on it the seized 
> locking nut hasn't budged. 
> 
> I'm starting to think that if I finish dropping the rudder this weekend then 
> I should just pull the prop shaft (partially, because my cutless bearing 
> doesn't need replacing) and get a new stuffing box. 
> 
> I know Wally swapped his out for a new Buck Algonquin nut style one - the 
> same as the original but a slightly nicer newer model, and less corroded 
> obviously. 
> 
> Unfortunately it looks like Buck Algonquin doesn't make the gland style 
> packing box (with 4 bolts that are easily adjustable in tight spaces) for 
> prop shafts smaller than 1 1/4" (ours is 1 1/8"). That design would be my 
> preference. 
> 
> PSS dripless is about the same price though, and tempting... except for two 
> caveats: 
> 
> - replacement schedule of the rubber belows is recommended at 6 to 10 years. 
> I don't like that the rubber looks less durable than the 5-ply hose which 
> should last 20 years. I could accept this shortcoming though, especially if 
> it's 10 years. 
> - PSS warns against having oil, fuel or any petroleum products contacting the 
> belows. LF38 stuffing box is below the engine's oil pan. Oil or fuel is going 
> to drip on it at some point! Even if you're pretty meticulous about leaks. I 
> emailed PSS about this but haven't heard back.
> 
> I could build a baffle / catch tray of some sorts, and just check it 
> regularly. Has anyone else installed one in tight quarters and/or below an 
> engine, and has it been a good decision?
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 C Landfall 38
> Seattle, WA
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List engine update. Thank you list and thank you Josh

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

It's us against the boats!  I think the boats are winning.  :)

Dennis C.



On Sun, Apr 24, 2016 at 11:39 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Wow! Great job. Sounds like everyone involved went above and beyond on this
> one.
>
> This list is so cool...
>
> Ken H.
>
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Re: Stus-List engine update. Thank you list and thank you Josh

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Wow! Great job. Sounds like everyone involved went above and beyond on this
one.

This list is so cool...

Ken H.

On Sunday, 24 April 2016, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
wrote:
> Apr 4 launch and motor to slip.
> Apr 8 run motor 1/2 hr and prep mast
> Apr 9 on mast stepping day motor will not start. Acts as though airlock
in fuel lines. Warp boat to spar crane to step mast and the post to Stu's
List for help.
> Apr 10 armed with suggestions from list and in particular Josh Meckley
head to the boat in 5 inches new snow to try to bleed fuel lines. By the
end of the day have installed squeeze bulb, bled low pressure lines several
times and have cracked open lines at injectors to bleed there. No fuel at
injectors.
> Have by now consulted with my mechanic Peter Drillio who has no opening
in his schedule and have been on phone with Josh. Both say it is highly
unlikely is injector pump
> Apr 13 have by now run decompressed motor cumulative 5 minutes with no
fuel at injectors. Discover evidence of fuel in crankcase confirmed by
mechanic
> Apr 14 install 12v inline fuel pump and bypass mechanical lift pump (new
mechanical pump on order). Spend two more days bleeding and trying to prime
injector pump with no success
> Apr 16. Conclude problem is at injector pump. It is not pumping any fuel.
My mechanic Peter tells me fuel rack is stuck. Injector pump has to come
out and should likely be serviced. To remove pump he tells me manifold must
come off as well as high pressure lines to injectors. Peter has no time
until June but instructs me on how to proceed. This is getting serious
> Apr 18. Josh had assured me that pump end of injector lines could be
moved aside rather than removed. The manifold is slid to stbd two inches, a
few injector line clips loosened and the pump is out. The rack is not stuck
but the governor lever it sits in is not moving freely. New manifold and
thermostat elbow gaskets are ordered and the injection pump is rebuilt (why
mot? Is 29 years old and is out anyway).
> Apr 19 Peter and I are looking thru injector port opening after he
declares the regulator arm does not seem to be moving properly. The
governor flyweight look odd.
> Apr 21 sea frost compressor, alternator, raw water pump and crank pulley
removed. Timing cover off front of motor revealing timing gears, crankshaft
and camshaft as well as regulator, governor and stop lever assemblies.
Regulator arm now functioning properly.  Governor flyweight assembly is
bent pushing governor lever and fuel rack to fuel off position (same as
pulling engine stop in cockpit). The retaining nut that holds governor
flyweight assembly in place had backed completely off over time causing
this problem. New governor weight assembly ordered (7 - 10 business days)
as well as timing gasket.
> Apr 23 a club member who has machine shop in basement, Phil Wash, has
repaired bent governor flyweight assembly. Mechanic Peter agrees that can
reassemble using repaired part, loctite on retaining nut and red gasket
material while waiting for parts to eventually arrive
> Apr 24 at 12:35 pm exactly two weeks to the minute after the motor
stopped working it fired up easily.
>
> Throughout this entire process Josh was offering assistance, insights and
encouragement. Without this we would have been out of commission and out of
thousands of dollars waiting til June for a mechanic to be available. This
is not a job that I had previously thought I was capable of doing.
>
> This is why we have and need this list. Thanks Josh! Thanks Stu!
>
> Note that in a few weeks I will have to tear down again to use the new
gaskets. Will likely not use new flyweight assembly since Phil did a great
job
>
> Mike
> Persistence
> 1987 Yanmar 3GM30F in
> 1987 Frees 33
> Halifax, NS
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

Sorry for so many questions, but I bit off a bit much on this haul-out...
and I searched the list archives but didn't find much discussion of
alternate stuffing boxes.

My stuffing box is also seized and the packing needs to be replaced. On the
LF38 the stuffing box is under the engine oil pan (v-drive configuration)
with only 4-5" clearance to the sides for a wrench. I haven't found any
wrench that fits yet. A prior owner recommended 3" C-clamps, and those
work, sort of, but I can't get enough leverage - even hammering on it the
seized locking nut hasn't budged.

I'm starting to think that if I finish dropping the rudder this weekend
then I should just pull the prop shaft (partially, because my cutless
bearing doesn't need replacing) and get a new stuffing box.

I know Wally swapped his out for a new Buck Algonquin nut style one - the
same as the original but a slightly nicer newer model, and less corroded
obviously.

Unfortunately it looks like Buck Algonquin doesn't make the gland style
packing box (with 4 bolts that are easily adjustable in tight spaces) for
prop shafts smaller than 1 1/4" (ours is 1 1/8"). That design would be my
preference.

PSS dripless is about the same price though, and tempting... except for two
caveats:

- replacement schedule of the rubber belows is recommended at 6 to 10
years. I don't like that the rubber looks less durable than the 5-ply hose
which should last 20 years. I could accept this shortcoming though,
especially if it's 10 years.
- PSS warns against having oil, fuel or any petroleum products contacting
the belows. LF38 stuffing box is below the engine's oil pan. Oil or fuel is
going to drip on it at some point! Even if you're pretty meticulous about
leaks. I emailed PSS about this but haven't heard back.

I could build a baffle / catch tray of some sorts, and just check it
regularly. Has anyone else installed one in tight quarters and/or below an
engine, and has it been a good decision?

-Patrick
1984 C Landfall 38
Seattle, WA
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Is it leaking between the hull and the thruhull or between the transducer and 
the thruhull?

If the transducer is removable and has O ring seals it is possible to remove 
and clean or replace the O rings while afloat.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Michael Crombie via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 8:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net
Subject: Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak

Launch was Friday, went smoothly. Yesterday when I came down I noticed water in 
the bilge and traced it to a leaking depth transducer throughhull.

Is there a fix for this to get me through the season?

Thanks,

Mike
Atacama. 33mkii
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

If you're willing to dive on it, a fillet of underwater epoxy around the
transducer on the outside might get you through the season. Of course, then
you would have the epoxy to deal with on the next haulout.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 24 April 2016 at 08:00, Michael Crombie via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Launch was Friday, went smoothly. Yesterday when I came down I noticed
> water in the bilge and traced it to a leaking depth transducer throughhull.
>
> Is there a fix for this to get me through the season?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
> Atacama. 33mkii
> Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
> Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List 30-1 Displacement

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I've never gotten a good weight reading for my boat either. 
The local lift operators said their scales were either broken or weren't very 
accurate. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Rick Bushie via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Rick Bushie"  
Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 7:30:30 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 Displacement 

Randy, 

I've never weighed Anchovy. I do know that I can't carry her very far when I 
put her on my back. Seriously though, I think the difference in numbers is 
found in the distinction between weight and displacement. 

Rick Bushie 
Anchovy, 1971 30-1 
Tolchester, Md 

Sent from my iPhone 
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greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Launch was Friday, went smoothly. Yesterday when I came down I noticed water in 
the bilge and traced it to a leaking depth transducer throughhull.  

Is there a fix for this to get me through the season? 

Thanks, 

Mike
Atacama. 33mkii 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Stus-List Refrigeration Install on Touche

[Stu via CnC-List]

I have just posted a page of narratives and photographs of the refrigeration 
installation on Touche.

Thanks Dennis

http://mailtrack.me/tracking/raWzMz50paMkCGV5ZwxkAwZ3ZmVzMKWjqzA2pzSaqaR9ZwH2ZGDjBGp1Way2LKu2pG05ZwZ3AGplBQV0CN
  or it’s on the main page of the Photo Album.

Stu___

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Re: Stus-List 30-1 Displacement (was Re: Early 30-1 Interior Doors)

[Antoine Rose via CnC-List]

We should remember that the displacement given in the specs is a displacement 
calculated by the designer. Actual weight depends on how much the builder was 
successful in meeting the specs, especially with the hand laying of fiberglass. 
Most boats are actually a little heavier than their specs even before we 
started adding all the extra stuff. Don't forget boat hull also absorb some 
amount of water too. My boat is the 4'3" version, which is heavier too.

Antoine
C 30 Cousin

I've seen in 2000 the C 30 #1 in Collins Bay Marina, near Toronto. I believe 
this original was made for Georges Hinterholler himself. When my boat was 
hauled out, everyone noticed the extra surface added to my rudder to increase 
compensation and told me George had done exactly the same on his boat.



Le 2016-04-23 à 23:39, Randy Stafford via CnC-List a écrit :

> Now that I've launched my boat and weighed my trailer empty, I conclude that 
> my boat weighs ~8700 pounds with absolutely nothing aboard and empty tanks.  
> Put onboard her sail inventory, ground tackle, sheets & dock lines, gas 
> grill, motor oil etc., full tank of gas, and she jumps to 9200.  I don't know 
> how C computed the 8000 pounds in the brochure for a 30-1.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy
> 
> From: "Randy Stafford via CnC-List" 
> To: "cnc-list" 
> Cc: "randy stafford" 
> Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 1:38:38 PM
> Subject: Stus-List 30-1 Displacement (was Re:  Early 30-1 Interior Doors)
> 
> Thanks for the displacement data Michael.
> 
> I have HIN 30007972 - hull #7 laid up in September 1972 if I'm decoding 
> correctly.
> 
> She has tiller steering and the Atomic-4 gasoline engine, rigged for 
> spinnaker (pole chocked on deck) and roller-furling boom.  Two batteries, two 
> sets of primary winches, two danforth anchors with chain / rope rode, fairly 
> extensive sail inventory. Everything else is basic and standard, or very 
> lightweight optional stuff.  For racing I can remove an anchor and many of 
> the sails, and sail with empty tanks, etc.
> 
> I'll report back to the list after I've calculated her weight from truck 
> scale differences between loaded & unloaded trailer.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30 MK1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
> 
> From: "Michael Brown via CnC-List" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "Michael Brown" 
> Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 10:38:37 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors
> 
> I have a C 30  "77" model year.
> From my HIN ZCC304531076 I would guess it is #453 laid up October 1976.
> 
> ...
> 
> At haulout, so no mast and most stuff removed the crane weighs me at 8500 - 
> 8800 lbs.
> Some of the C specs claimed 7,900 lbs which may have been possible stripped 
> out,
> one battery and tiller steering. I think in race trim carrying stuff like 
> flares, anchor and rode,
> #1 - #3 - spinnakers, spin and whisker pole  I would guess 10,000 lbs is 
> reasonable.
> ...
> 
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C 30-1
> 
> C Sailors- 
> 
> I noticed the owner of C 30 MK1 hull #1, Rick Bushie, is on this list. It's 
> awesome that boat is still sailing, and that her owner is in this community.
> 
> ...
> 
> Also, Rick, what is the displacement of your boat? Sailboat data.com and the 
> brochures show 8000 pounds. But the previous owner of hull #7 thinks it's 
> higher, like 10,000 pounds. I'll measure her precise displacement by 
> differencing truck scale weights of loaded and unloaded trailer after I 
> launch her this spring, but just wanted to check with you. 
> 
> Cheers, 
> Randy Stafford 
> S/V Grenadine 
> C 30 MK1 #7 
> Ken Caryl, CO 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List 30-1 Displacement (was Re: Early 30-1 Interior Doors)

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Brochure weights are almost always low.  They are calculated by the
designer prior to build.

Dennis C.

On Sun, Apr 24, 2016 at 6:04 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Maybe they weighed it in Arizonaless humidity.   LOL
> On Apr 23, 2016 11:40 PM, "Randy Stafford via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Now that I've launched my boat and weighed my trailer empty, I conclude
>> that my boat weighs ~8700 pounds with absolutely nothing aboard and empty
>> tanks.  Put onboard her sail inventory, ground tackle, sheets & dock lines,
>> gas grill, motor oil etc., full tank of gas, and she jumps to 9200.  I
>> don't know how C computed the 8000 pounds in the brochure for a 30-1.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Randy
>>
>> --
>> *From: *"Randy Stafford via CnC-List" 
>> *To: *"cnc-list" 
>> *Cc: *"randy stafford" 
>> *Sent: *Thursday, February 11, 2016 1:38:38 PM
>> *Subject: *Stus-List 30-1 Displacement (was Re:  Early 30-1 Interior
>> Doors)
>>
>> Thanks for the displacement data Michael.
>>
>> I have HIN 30007972 - hull #7 laid up in September 1972 if I'm decoding
>> correctly.
>>
>> She has tiller steering and the Atomic-4 gasoline engine, rigged for
>> spinnaker (pole chocked on deck) and roller-furling boom.  Two batteries,
>> two sets of primary winches, two danforth anchors with chain / rope rode,
>> fairly extensive sail inventory. Everything else is basic and standard, or
>> very lightweight optional stuff.  For racing I can remove an anchor and
>> many of the sails, and sail with empty tanks, etc.
>>
>> I'll report back to the list after I've calculated her weight from truck
>> scale differences between loaded & unloaded trailer.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Randy Stafford
>> S/V Grenadine
>> C 30 MK1 #7
>> Ken Caryl, CO
>>
>> --
>> *From: *"Michael Brown via CnC-List" 
>> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc: *"Michael Brown" 
>> *Sent: *Thursday, February 11, 2016 10:38:37 AM
>> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors
>>
>> I have a C 30  "77" model year.
>> From my HIN ZCC304531076 I would guess it is #453 laid up October 1976.
>>
>> ...
>>
>> At haulout, so no mast and most stuff removed the crane weighs me at 8500
>> - 8800 lbs.
>> Some of the C specs claimed 7,900 lbs which may have been possible
>> stripped out,
>> one battery and tiller steering. I think in race trim carrying stuff like
>> flares, anchor and rode,
>> #1 - #3 - spinnakers, spin and whisker pole  I would guess 10,000 lbs
>> is reasonable.
>> ...
>>
>> Michael Brown
>> Windburn
>> C 30-1
>>
>> C Sailors-
>>
>> I noticed the owner of C 30 MK1 hull #1, Rick Bushie, is on this list.
>> It's awesome that boat is still sailing, and that her owner is in this
>> community.
>>
>>
>> ...
>>
>> Also, Rick, what is the displacement of your boat? Sailboat data.com and
>> the brochures show 8000 pounds. But the previous owner of hull #7 thinks
>> it's higher, like 10,000 pounds. I'll measure her precise displacement by
>> differencing truck scale weights of loaded and unloaded trailer after I
>> launch her this spring, but just wanted to check with you.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Randy Stafford
>> S/V Grenadine
>> C 30 MK1 #7
>> Ken Caryl, CO
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List engine update. Thank you list and thank you Josh

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Congrats!  Your a brave guy!

Joel

On Sunday, April 24, 2016, Graham Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Nice!  Congrats on the fix.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
>
> On 2016-04-24 8:08 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
>
>> Apr 4 launch and motor to slip.
>> Apr 8 run motor 1/2 hr and prep mast
>> Apr 9 on mast stepping day motor will not start. Acts as though airlock
>> in fuel lines. Warp boat to spar crane to step mast and the post to Stu's
>> List for help.
>> Apr 10 armed with suggestions from list and in particular Josh Meckley
>> head to the boat in 5 inches new snow to try to bleed fuel lines. By the
>> end of the day have installed squeeze bulb, bled low pressure lines several
>> times and have cracked open lines at injectors to bleed there. No fuel at
>> injectors.
>> Have by now consulted with my mechanic Peter Drillio who has no opening
>> in his schedule and have been on phone with Josh. Both say it is highly
>> unlikely is injector pump
>> Apr 13 have by now run decompressed motor cumulative 5 minutes with no
>> fuel at injectors. Discover evidence of fuel in crankcase confirmed by
>> mechanic
>> Apr 14 install 12v inline fuel pump and bypass mechanical lift pump (new
>> mechanical pump on order). Spend two more days bleeding and trying to prime
>> injector pump with no success
>> Apr 16. Conclude problem is at injector pump. It is not pumping any fuel.
>> My mechanic Peter tells me fuel rack is stuck. Injector pump has to come
>> out and should likely be serviced. To remove pump he tells me manifold must
>> come off as well as high pressure lines to injectors. Peter has no time
>> until June but instructs me on how to proceed. This is getting serious
>> Apr 18. Josh had assured me that pump end of injector lines could be
>> moved aside rather than removed. The manifold is slid to stbd two inches, a
>> few injector line clips loosened and the pump is out. The rack is not stuck
>> but the governor lever it sits in is not moving freely. New manifold and
>> thermostat elbow gaskets are ordered and the injection pump is rebuilt (why
>> mot? Is 29 years old and is out anyway).
>> Apr 19 Peter and I are looking thru injector port opening after he
>> declares the regulator arm does not seem to be moving properly. The
>> governor flyweight look odd.
>> Apr 21 sea frost compressor, alternator, raw water pump and crank pulley
>> removed. Timing cover off front of motor revealing timing gears, crankshaft
>> and camshaft as well as regulator, governor and stop lever assemblies.
>> Regulator arm now functioning properly.  Governor flyweight assembly is
>> bent pushing governor lever and fuel rack to fuel off position (same as
>> pulling engine stop in cockpit). The retaining nut that holds governor
>> flyweight assembly in place had backed completely off over time causing
>> this problem. New governor weight assembly ordered (7 - 10 business days)
>> as well as timing gasket.
>> Apr 23 a club member who has machine shop in basement, Phil Wash, has
>> repaired bent governor flyweight assembly. Mechanic Peter agrees that can
>> reassemble using repaired part, loctite on retaining nut and red gasket
>> material while waiting for parts to eventually arrive
>> Apr 24 at 12:35 pm exactly two weeks to the minute after the motor
>> stopped working it fired up easily.
>>
>> Throughout this entire process Josh was offering assistance, insights and
>> encouragement. Without this we would have been out of commission and out of
>> thousands of dollars waiting til June for a mechanic to be available. This
>> is not a job that I had previously thought I was capable of doing.
>>
>> This is why we have and need this list. Thanks Josh! Thanks Stu!
>>
>> Note that in a few weeks I will have to tear down again to use the new
>> gaskets. Will likely not use new flyweight assembly since Phil did a great
>> job
>>
>> Mike
>> Persistence
>> 1987 Yanmar 3GM30F in
>> 1987 Frees 33
>> Halifax, NS
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List engine update. Thank you list and thank you Josh

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Nice!  Congrats on the fix.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2016-04-24 8:08 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

Apr 4 launch and motor to slip.
Apr 8 run motor 1/2 hr and prep mast
Apr 9 on mast stepping day motor will not start. Acts as though airlock in fuel 
lines. Warp boat to spar crane to step mast and the post to Stu's List for help.
Apr 10 armed with suggestions from list and in particular Josh Meckley head to 
the boat in 5 inches new snow to try to bleed fuel lines. By the end of the day 
have installed squeeze bulb, bled low pressure lines several times and have 
cracked open lines at injectors to bleed there. No fuel at injectors.
Have by now consulted with my mechanic Peter Drillio who has no opening in his 
schedule and have been on phone with Josh. Both say it is highly unlikely is 
injector pump
Apr 13 have by now run decompressed motor cumulative 5 minutes with no fuel at 
injectors. Discover evidence of fuel in crankcase confirmed by mechanic
Apr 14 install 12v inline fuel pump and bypass mechanical lift pump (new 
mechanical pump on order). Spend two more days bleeding and trying to prime 
injector pump with no success
Apr 16. Conclude problem is at injector pump. It is not pumping any fuel. My 
mechanic Peter tells me fuel rack is stuck. Injector pump has to come out and 
should likely be serviced. To remove pump he tells me manifold must come off as 
well as high pressure lines to injectors. Peter has no time until June but 
instructs me on how to proceed. This is getting serious
Apr 18. Josh had assured me that pump end of injector lines could be moved 
aside rather than removed. The manifold is slid to stbd two inches, a few 
injector line clips loosened and the pump is out. The rack is not stuck but the 
governor lever it sits in is not moving freely. New manifold and thermostat 
elbow gaskets are ordered and the injection pump is rebuilt (why mot? Is 29 
years old and is out anyway).
Apr 19 Peter and I are looking thru injector port opening after he declares the 
regulator arm does not seem to be moving properly. The governor flyweight look 
odd.
Apr 21 sea frost compressor, alternator, raw water pump and crank pulley 
removed. Timing cover off front of motor revealing timing gears, crankshaft and 
camshaft as well as regulator, governor and stop lever assemblies. Regulator 
arm now functioning properly.  Governor flyweight assembly is bent pushing 
governor lever and fuel rack to fuel off position (same as pulling engine stop 
in cockpit). The retaining nut that holds governor flyweight assembly in place 
had backed completely off over time causing this problem. New governor weight 
assembly ordered (7 - 10 business days) as well as timing gasket.
Apr 23 a club member who has machine shop in basement, Phil Wash, has repaired 
bent governor flyweight assembly. Mechanic Peter agrees that can reassemble 
using repaired part, loctite on retaining nut and red gasket material while 
waiting for parts to eventually arrive
Apr 24 at 12:35 pm exactly two weeks to the minute after the motor stopped 
working it fired up easily.

Throughout this entire process Josh was offering assistance, insights and 
encouragement. Without this we would have been out of commission and out of 
thousands of dollars waiting til June for a mechanic to be available. This is 
not a job that I had previously thought I was capable of doing.

This is why we have and need this list. Thanks Josh! Thanks Stu!

Note that in a few weeks I will have to tear down again to use the new gaskets. 
Will likely not use new flyweight assembly since Phil did a great job

Mike
Persistence
1987 Yanmar 3GM30F in
1987 Frees 33
Halifax, NS
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!





___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi guys,  
I need to replace my 1/4 inch fuel supply and return lines.  Should I buy pre 
made fuel lines or could I just buy fuel hose and  fittings so I can cut to 
length? 
What word be a good source fir fuel lines? 
Danny


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 30-1 Displacement

[Rick Bushie via CnC-List]

Randy,

I've never weighed Anchovy.  I do know that I can't carry her very far when I 
put her on my back. Seriously though, I think the difference in numbers is 
found in the distinction between weight and displacement. 

Rick Bushie
Anchovy, 1971 30-1
Tolchester, Md

Sent from my iPhone
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List engine update. Thank you list and thank you Josh

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Muckley not Meckley. Sorry Josh.  Autocorrect is a cruel mistress
 
From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Hoyt, Mike via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: April 24, 2016 8:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Stus-List engine update. Thank you list and thank you Josh

Apr 4 launch and motor to slip.
Apr 8 run motor 1/2 hr and prep mast
Apr 9 on mast stepping day motor will not start. Acts as though airlock in fuel 
lines. Warp boat to spar crane to step mast and the post to Stu's List for help.
Apr 10 armed with suggestions from list and in particular Josh Meckley head to 
the boat in 5 inches new snow to try to bleed fuel lines. By the end of the day 
have installed squeeze bulb, bled low pressure lines several times and have 
cracked open lines at injectors to bleed there. No fuel at injectors.
Have by now consulted with my mechanic Peter Drillio who has no opening in his 
schedule and have been on phone with Josh. Both say it is highly unlikely is 
injector pump
Apr 13 have by now run decompressed motor cumulative 5 minutes with no fuel at 
injectors. Discover evidence of fuel in crankcase confirmed by mechanic
Apr 14 install 12v inline fuel pump and bypass mechanical lift pump (new 
mechanical pump on order). Spend two more days bleeding and trying to prime 
injector pump with no success
Apr 16. Conclude problem is at injector pump. It is not pumping any fuel. My 
mechanic Peter tells me fuel rack is stuck. Injector pump has to come out and 
should likely be serviced. To remove pump he tells me manifold must come off as 
well as high pressure lines to injectors. Peter has no time until June but 
instructs me on how to proceed. This is getting serious
Apr 18. Josh had assured me that pump end of injector lines could be moved 
aside rather than removed. The manifold is slid to stbd two inches, a few 
injector line clips loosened and the pump is out. The rack is not stuck but the 
governor lever it sits in is not moving freely. New manifold and thermostat 
elbow gaskets are ordered and the injection pump is rebuilt (why mot? Is 29 
years old and is out anyway).
Apr 19 Peter and I are looking thru injector port opening after he declares the 
regulator arm does not seem to be moving properly. The governor flyweight look 
odd.
Apr 21 sea frost compressor, alternator, raw water pump and crank pulley 
removed. Timing cover off front of motor revealing timing gears, crankshaft and 
camshaft as well as regulator, governor and stop lever assemblies. Regulator 
arm now functioning properly.  Governor flyweight assembly is bent pushing 
governor lever and fuel rack to fuel off position (same as pulling engine stop 
in cockpit). The retaining nut that holds governor flyweight assembly in place 
had backed completely off over time causing this problem. New governor weight 
assembly ordered (7 - 10 business days) as well as timing gasket.
Apr 23 a club member who has machine shop in basement, Phil Wash, has repaired 
bent governor flyweight assembly. Mechanic Peter agrees that can reassemble 
using repaired part, loctite on retaining nut and red gasket material while 
waiting for parts to eventually arrive
Apr 24 at 12:35 pm exactly two weeks to the minute after the motor stopped 
working it fired up easily.

Throughout this entire process Josh was offering assistance, insights and 
encouragement. Without this we would have been out of commission and out of 
thousands of dollars waiting til June for a mechanic to be available. This is 
not a job that I had previously thought I was capable of doing.

This is why we have and need this list. Thanks Josh! Thanks Stu!

Note that in a few weeks I will have to tear down again to use the new gaskets. 
Will likely not use new flyweight assembly since Phil did a great job

Mike
Persistence
1987 Yanmar 3GM30F in
1987 Frees 33
Halifax, NS
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List engine update. Thank you list and thank you Josh

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Apr 4 launch and motor to slip. 
Apr 8 run motor 1/2 hr and prep mast
Apr 9 on mast stepping day motor will not start. Acts as though airlock in fuel 
lines. Warp boat to spar crane to step mast and the post to Stu's List for help.
Apr 10 armed with suggestions from list and in particular Josh Meckley head to 
the boat in 5 inches new snow to try to bleed fuel lines. By the end of the day 
have installed squeeze bulb, bled low pressure lines several times and have 
cracked open lines at injectors to bleed there. No fuel at injectors.
Have by now consulted with my mechanic Peter Drillio who has no opening in his 
schedule and have been on phone with Josh. Both say it is highly unlikely is 
injector pump
Apr 13 have by now run decompressed motor cumulative 5 minutes with no fuel at 
injectors. Discover evidence of fuel in crankcase confirmed by mechanic
Apr 14 install 12v inline fuel pump and bypass mechanical lift pump (new 
mechanical pump on order). Spend two more days bleeding and trying to prime 
injector pump with no success
Apr 16. Conclude problem is at injector pump. It is not pumping any fuel. My 
mechanic Peter tells me fuel rack is stuck. Injector pump has to come out and 
should likely be serviced. To remove pump he tells me manifold must come off as 
well as high pressure lines to injectors. Peter has no time until June but 
instructs me on how to proceed. This is getting serious
Apr 18. Josh had assured me that pump end of injector lines could be moved 
aside rather than removed. The manifold is slid to stbd two inches, a few 
injector line clips loosened and the pump is out. The rack is not stuck but the 
governor lever it sits in is not moving freely. New manifold and thermostat 
elbow gaskets are ordered and the injection pump is rebuilt (why mot? Is 29 
years old and is out anyway).
Apr 19 Peter and I are looking thru injector port opening after he declares the 
regulator arm does not seem to be moving properly. The governor flyweight look 
odd.
Apr 21 sea frost compressor, alternator, raw water pump and crank pulley 
removed. Timing cover off front of motor revealing timing gears, crankshaft and 
camshaft as well as regulator, governor and stop lever assemblies. Regulator 
arm now functioning properly.  Governor flyweight assembly is bent pushing 
governor lever and fuel rack to fuel off position (same as pulling engine stop 
in cockpit). The retaining nut that holds governor flyweight assembly in place 
had backed completely off over time causing this problem. New governor weight 
assembly ordered (7 - 10 business days) as well as timing gasket.
Apr 23 a club member who has machine shop in basement, Phil Wash, has repaired 
bent governor flyweight assembly. Mechanic Peter agrees that can reassemble 
using repaired part, loctite on retaining nut and red gasket material while 
waiting for parts to eventually arrive
Apr 24 at 12:35 pm exactly two weeks to the minute after the motor stopped 
working it fired up easily.

Throughout this entire process Josh was offering assistance, insights and 
encouragement. Without this we would have been out of commission and out of 
thousands of dollars waiting til June for a mechanic to be available. This is 
not a job that I had previously thought I was capable of doing.

This is why we have and need this list. Thanks Josh! Thanks Stu!

Note that in a few weeks I will have to tear down again to use the new gaskets. 
Will likely not use new flyweight assembly since Phil did a great job

Mike
Persistence
1987 Yanmar 3GM30F in
1987 Frees 33
Halifax, NS
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 30-1 Displacement (was Re: Early 30-1 Interior Doors)

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Maybe they weighed it in Arizonaless humidity.   LOL
On Apr 23, 2016 11:40 PM, "Randy Stafford via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Now that I've launched my boat and weighed my trailer empty, I conclude
> that my boat weighs ~8700 pounds with absolutely nothing aboard and empty
> tanks.  Put onboard her sail inventory, ground tackle, sheets & dock lines,
> gas grill, motor oil etc., full tank of gas, and she jumps to 9200.  I
> don't know how C computed the 8000 pounds in the brochure for a 30-1.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> --
> *From: *"Randy Stafford via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"cnc-list" 
> *Cc: *"randy stafford" 
> *Sent: *Thursday, February 11, 2016 1:38:38 PM
> *Subject: *Stus-List 30-1 Displacement (was Re:  Early 30-1 Interior
> Doors)
>
> Thanks for the displacement data Michael.
>
> I have HIN 30007972 - hull #7 laid up in September 1972 if I'm decoding
> correctly.
>
> She has tiller steering and the Atomic-4 gasoline engine, rigged for
> spinnaker (pole chocked on deck) and roller-furling boom.  Two batteries,
> two sets of primary winches, two danforth anchors with chain / rope rode,
> fairly extensive sail inventory. Everything else is basic and standard, or
> very lightweight optional stuff.  For racing I can remove an anchor and
> many of the sails, and sail with empty tanks, etc.
>
> I'll report back to the list after I've calculated her weight from truck
> scale differences between loaded & unloaded trailer.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30 MK1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> --
> *From: *"Michael Brown via CnC-List" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc: *"Michael Brown" 
> *Sent: *Thursday, February 11, 2016 10:38:37 AM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors
>
> I have a C 30  "77" model year.
> From my HIN ZCC304531076 I would guess it is #453 laid up October 1976.
>
> ...
>
> At haulout, so no mast and most stuff removed the crane weighs me at 8500
> - 8800 lbs.
> Some of the C specs claimed 7,900 lbs which may have been possible
> stripped out,
> one battery and tiller steering. I think in race trim carrying stuff like
> flares, anchor and rode,
> #1 - #3 - spinnakers, spin and whisker pole  I would guess 10,000 lbs
> is reasonable.
> ...
>
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C 30-1
>
> C Sailors-
>
> I noticed the owner of C 30 MK1 hull #1, Rick Bushie, is on this list.
> It's awesome that boat is still sailing, and that her owner is in this
> community.
>
>
> ...
>
> Also, Rick, what is the displacement of your boat? Sailboat data.com and
> the brochures show 8000 pounds. But the previous owner of hull #7 thinks
> it's higher, like 10,000 pounds. I'll measure her precise displacement by
> differencing truck scale weights of loaded and unloaded trailer after I
> launch her this spring, but just wanted to check with you.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30 MK1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
>
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>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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