Re: Stus-List Solar charge controllers

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

If you want a good one, get a Genesis controller. They are not cheap, but 
they’re not expensive and they are good. I think they are a bit cheaper than 
Morningstar.

You want a good one. You can easily murder the batteries with a poor one.

I have a Morningstar duo and I am happy, but if I were to do it again, I would 
buy a Genasun.

Marek

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: April 27, 2016 21:20
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Stus-List Solar charge controllers

Hey guys,

Anyone have a good experience with an ebay or Amazon, el cheapo solar
charge controller.  Particularly a MPPT type.  The price for the
Morningstar is just a little prohibitive for what you get.

Renogy Traker MPPT 20A with the accessory meter is cheaper than just the
Morningstar 15A, MPPT ootion.  It is also only a little more expensive than
the Victron BlueSolar 20A MPPT version.

Thanks,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
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Re: Stus-List Tohatsu Outboard

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

They are not the same.  I think that one is black and the other is grey.  :)  
BTW, I believe that Tohatsu also makes some of the small Mercury outboards. 

On Wednesday, April 27, 2016 8:46 PM, Brian Davis via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 If I'm not mistaken, I believe that Tohatsu  and Nissan Marine are the same 
motor.  I had a 18 hp 4 stroke Nissan on a 15 ft Seaeagle inflatable for 
several years and it started every time and ran great. I think you'll have no 
worries with the Tohatsu. Brian
'80 Landfall 38
NinaOn Apr 27, 2016 7:16 PM, "Mark McMenamy via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

Hello,

I was thinking of replacing my Suzuki 9.9 with a Tohatsu 9.8.  Does anybody 
have any experience with these?  Also, to save weight I was considering the 
manual tilt.  I was curious if it's difficult to raise and lower?

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
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Re: Stus-List Solar charge controllers

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

It's hit or miss. I purchased my solar panel and controller as a kit from
an ebay store located in Quebec. This outfit:
http://www.ebay.com/usr/solar-power-canada?_trksid=p2047675.l2559

If I were cruising full time I wouldn't cheap out on this. The truth is
that I'm a weekend cruiser and this technology is a commodity. Three
seasons now and I don't regret cheaping out on this one, the kit has served
very well.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Tohatsu Outboard

[Sailnomad via CnC-List]

I agree with the extra long shaft. When I have my motor mount all the way
down, and engine open, the plate that holds the engine actually dips in the
water for a few inches. So in calm waters I don't lower the engine all the
way.
I never had any problems, but I have had the boat and the engine only for 3
moths last season. This season, it started up right away.
Ahmet
Tabasco
C 25 Boston, MA

On Wed, Apr 27, 2016 at 7:39 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Mark,
> My recently sold C 25 had a Tohatsu (Nissan) 9.8 Long shaft electric
> start.  Generally a good motor and was the lightest of the 9.8 electric
> starts on the market, making it a good choice for the somewhat flimsy
> transom on the 25.   If I had to choose again, I would suggest the Extra
> Long Shaft (25" leg) over the standard long shaft.  In hobby horse
> conditions on Buzzards Bay, it wasn't unusual for the prop to come out of
> the water which put a significant strain on the engine bracket attachment
> when the prop dropped back in the water.  I also liked that it had an
> alternator that would charge the dual purpose battery on the boat.
> Maintenance wise, the engine ran fairly reliably but was sensitive to fuel
> that sat in the carb for more than 2-3 weeks.  I bought mine in 2007 and
> rebuilt and cleaned the carburetor at least 4 times due to fuel issues.
> One
> other thing I would have liked would have been a steering lock on the
> engine
> which would have allowed the engine to be locked in on center when motoring
> for any distance.  When the motor was revved, the engine tended to self
> steer counter clockwise, which meant I often had to hold the boat tiller in
> one hand and the engine tiller in the other.  Perhaps other brands of
> engine
> have a steering lock component that would prevent this.
> Lowering the engine meant reaching over the transom and pulling up a lever
> that held the engine in the tilt position and then slowly easing the engine
> down.  Lifting the engine became more of an issue after an engine lift lock
> on the motor that attached to the shift mechanism became detached, meaning
> it needed to be actuated manually on the engine leg.  Not a huge problem,
> but a bit of a pain.  With a long shaft or Extra long shaft, you will need
> to tilt the engine to get it to come completely out of the water when it is
> mounted to a transom bracket, even if the bracket has a lifting component
> to
> it.
> Even with the simple issues I've mentioned, it was a vast improvement over
> the Evinrude 9.9 Sail Twin it replaced, both in terms of noise, fuel
> economy, and reliability.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1983 LF 35
> Padanaram, MA
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
> McMenamy via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, April 27, 2016 7:15 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Mark McMenamy 
> Subject: Stus-List Tohatsu Outboard
>
> Hello,
>
> I was thinking of replacing my Suzuki 9.9 with a Tohatsu 9.8.  Does anybody
> have any experience with these?  Also, to save weight I was considering the
> manual tilt.  I was curious if it's difficult to raise and lower?
>
> Mark McMenamy
> C 25 "Icicle"
> Fort Pierce FL
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Tohatsu Outboard

[Sailnomad via CnC-List]

I have the Nissan 9.8 on my 25 C
The difficulty to raise and lower depends on you and your mount.
I have to grab the handle and give it a good pull.
A bit of a problem for me is that the pushpit is in the way, so I have to
lean over it, and it becomes a bit awkward.
But I don't think it has anything to do with the size of the engine.
Ahmet
Tabasco C 25


On Wed, Apr 27, 2016 at 9:45 PM, Brian Davis via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If I'm not mistaken, I believe that Tohatsu  and Nissan Marine are the
> same motor.  I had a 18 hp 4 stroke Nissan on a 15 ft Seaeagle inflatable
> for several years and it started every time and ran great. I think you'll
> have no worries with the Tohatsu.
>
> Brian
> '80 Landfall 38
> Nina
> On Apr 27, 2016 7:16 PM, "Mark McMenamy via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>>
>> I was thinking of replacing my Suzuki 9.9 with a Tohatsu 9.8.  Does
>> anybody have any experience with these?  Also, to save weight I was
>> considering the manual tilt.  I was curious if it's difficult to raise and
>> lower?
>>
>> Mark McMenamy
>> C 25 "Icicle"
>> Fort Pierce FL
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Icebox pump

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Alan, 

See attached photo.  We have a sump located in the bilge inboard and
slightly forward of the galley sink.  It has a Rule pump and float switch.
The circuit breaker provides power to the float switch and we only shut the
breaker when we pump the sump.  The sump pump discharges via a check valve
and anti-siphon valve located under the sink into the tee from the left side
of the picture.  The galley sink drain goes into the tee from the top of the
picture.  I've since replaced the nylon tee and cleaned up the lines in the
bilge.  

We keep a plug in the icebox drain until we want to drain water.  The cold
water helps keep the icebox cool.  

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alan
Liles via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 27, 2016 8:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alan Liles
Subject: Stus-List Icebox pump

Hi all. I was just at the boat cleaning up and I tried the icebox pump by
switching it on at the breaker panel. Nothing. I tried to get a look at it
but it seems I'd have to take up the galley sole to see the bottom of the
icebox so I thought I'd research it a bit before I started disassembling.
My first question is whether the pump should start when the breaker is
switched on. Secondly, is the pump located at the bottom of the box or
should I look elsewhere? Also, where do you suppose it discharges?

Cheers, Al
SV Elendil 
C 37+
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Re: Stus-List Tohatsu Outboard

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

If I'm not mistaken, I believe that Tohatsu  and Nissan Marine are the same
motor.  I had a 18 hp 4 stroke Nissan on a 15 ft Seaeagle inflatable for
several years and it started every time and ran great. I think you'll have
no worries with the Tohatsu.

Brian
'80 Landfall 38
Nina
On Apr 27, 2016 7:16 PM, "Mark McMenamy via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I was thinking of replacing my Suzuki 9.9 with a Tohatsu 9.8.  Does
> anybody have any experience with these?  Also, to save weight I was
> considering the manual tilt.  I was curious if it's difficult to raise and
> lower?
>
> Mark McMenamy
> C 25 "Icicle"
> Fort Pierce FL
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Solar charge controllers

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I think Renology sells cheap Chinese solar panels (some of which are 
manufacturing rejects from name brand companies).  Apparently, they are selling 
a cheap voltage controller now.  With something like this, it may work out fine 
for you or it may not.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - hull #230)
Blog: dainyr...@blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On Apr 27, 2016, at 9:31 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Josh — I’ve never heard of Renogy before; the Vlctron stuff is very well 
> built and I’d trust that in a minute.
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Apr 27, 2016, at 8:19 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Hey guys,
>> 
>> Anyone have a good experience with an ebay or Amazon, el cheapo solar charge 
>> controller.  Particularly a MPPT type.  The price for the Morningstar is 
>> just a little prohibitive for what you get. 
>> 
>> Renogy Traker MPPT 20A with the accessory meter is cheaper than just the 
>> Morningstar 15A, MPPT ootion.  It is also only a little more expensive than 
>> the Victron BlueSolar 20A MPPT version.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Scanmar Emergency Rudder MRUD

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

ledgable about the 30 mk II. He was in the Lake Ontario area in 
>> 2010. He answered a lot of my questions when I was looking for a boat at the 
>> time.
>> You should be able to find him easily.
>> Bruno LachanceBecassine, 33 mkIINew Richmond, Qc.
>> 
>> Envoy? de mon iPad
>> Le 26 avr. 2016 ? 19:16, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> a 
>> ?crit?:
>> 
>> 
>> Lorne:
>> 
>> I'm not that Allan, but I can send you pictures of the bow roller I added to 
>> my boat.? Send me your email address.? trya...@alumni.usc.edu
>> 
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>> 
>> On Tue, Apr 26, 2016 at 4:04 PM, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> I found an article in the resource center.? It says to contact ...
>> 
>> For more information - contact Allan.
>> 
>> It does not work.? Anyone know who Allan is and how to get a hold of him?? I 
>> like his bow roller setup on a Mk30II.? I don't have one and really want a 
>> roller setup.
>> 
>> Lorne Serpa
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- next part --
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: 
>> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160427/5baf28f5/attachment-0001.html>
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2016 14:20:32 +
>> From: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak
>> Message-ID:
>>   
>> <1422710626-1461766832-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1301026035-@b4.c1.bise6.blackberry>
>> 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"
>> 
>> 
>> I headed down the the boat yesterday armed with wrenches to try tightening 
>> the through-hull and, if that failed, teflon to follow John's  suggestion of 
>> backing off the nut and getting some teflon under there.  I met the yard 
>> mechanic at the boat as I figured it would be good to have a second person 
>> around for this job.
>> 
>> Well, after 4 days the backing wood had expanded enough to stop the leak. So 
>> we both decided it was best to leave well enough alone and just keep an eye 
>> on it.  
>> 
>> Assuming it behaves for the summer, this will be my first job upon haul-out. 
>>  Boat ownership is a bit masochistic...I've only been in the water 4 days 
>> and already I have haul-out jobs planned!
>> 
>> Thanks for the suggestions...i may have to follow-up with them before the 
>> end of the season anyway.
>> 
>> Mike
>> Atacama. 33 mkii
>> Toronto 
>> Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
>> Envoy? sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le r?seau de Bell.
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 4
>> Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2016 10:43:48 -0400
>> From: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak
>> Message-ID:
>>   

Re: Stus-List icebox pump

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

On  my 93 37/40 xl the ice box pump is located under the starboard saloon
seat, just forward of the sink.
There is an additional switch next to the ice box on the bulkhead.
It pumps to a pipe into the inboard sink
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Re: Stus-List Solar charge controllers

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Josh:

You might want to consider some redundancy in voltage controllers, not having 
all your solar panels go thru one voltage controller.  The voltage controller 
is the most likely piece of the system to fail--certainly more likely than the 
solar panels.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - hull #230)
Blog: dainyr...@blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On Apr 27, 2016, at 9:19 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Anyone have a good experience with an ebay or Amazon, el cheapo solar charge 
> controller.  Particularly a MPPT type.  The price for the Morningstar is just 
> a little prohibitive for what you get. 
> 
> Renogy Traker MPPT 20A with the accessory meter is cheaper than just the 
> Morningstar 15A, MPPT ootion.  It is also only a little more expensive than 
> the Victron BlueSolar 20A MPPT version.
> 
> Thanks,
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Solar charge controllers

[Lorne Serpa via CnC-List]

Look for ones with lots of reviews and read them.  Many say MPPT but are
not. Ones with lots of reviews often have a skilled person test its MPPT
functionality.
On Apr 27, 2016 7:20 PM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hey guys,
>
> Anyone have a good experience with an ebay or Amazon, el cheapo solar
> charge controller.  Particularly a MPPT type.  The price for the
> Morningstar is just a little prohibitive for what you get.
>
> Renogy Traker MPPT 20A with the accessory meter is cheaper than just the
> Morningstar 15A, MPPT ootion.  It is also only a little more expensive than
> the Victron BlueSolar 20A MPPT version.
>
> Thanks,
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Icebox pump

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Mine siphons to the first sump near the engine and goes to the bilge. Ice box 
water can get a tad nasty.  Tastes nasty anyway as I still suck (pun) with no 
talent!

Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA

> On Apr 27, 2016, at 5:57 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Mine doesn't work either but since I have a refrigeration unit I don't have 
> too much need for one.  Its not hard to pull up the sole to expose the pump.  
> There is a good chance that if mine ever worked then it stopped working 
> because of freezing temperatures and not being winterized.  It is easily 
> forgotten.  Mine used to pump to the sink through some faucet like pipes.  
> Now it just goes to the bilge.  In fact I think I may have just removed the 
> pump from the hose system so that it will gravity drain.  I guess the idea of 
> pumping out to the sink is that you could wash your hands or dishes with that 
> water.  Sounds kinda gross to me.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Apr 27, 2016 8:05 PM, "Alan Liles via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> Hi all. I was just at the boat cleaning up and I tried the icebox pump by 
> switching it on at the breaker panel. Nothing. I tried to get a look at it 
> but it seems I'd have to take up the galley sole to see the bottom of the 
> icebox so I thought I'd research it a bit before I started disassembling.
> My first question is whether the pump should start when the breaker is 
> switched on. Secondly, is the pump located at the bottom of the box or should 
> I look elsewhere? Also, where do you suppose it discharges?
> 
> Cheers, Al
> SV Elendil
> C 37+
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Solar charge controllers

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Josh — I’ve never heard of Renogy before; the Vlctron stuff is very well built 
and I’d trust that in a minute.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Apr 27, 2016, at 8:19 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Anyone have a good experience with an ebay or Amazon, el cheapo solar charge 
> controller.  Particularly a MPPT type.  The price for the Morningstar is just 
> a little prohibitive for what you get. 
> 
> Renogy Traker MPPT 20A with the accessory meter is cheaper than just the 
> Morningstar 15A, MPPT ootion.  It is also only a little more expensive than 
> the Victron BlueSolar 20A MPPT version.
> 
> Thanks,
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
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Stus-List Solar charge controllers

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Hey guys,

Anyone have a good experience with an ebay or Amazon, el cheapo solar
charge controller.  Particularly a MPPT type.  The price for the
Morningstar is just a little prohibitive for what you get.

Renogy Traker MPPT 20A with the accessory meter is cheaper than just the
Morningstar 15A, MPPT ootion.  It is also only a little more expensive than
the Victron BlueSolar 20A MPPT version.

Thanks,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
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Stus-List Icebox pump

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Our pump is under the galley sink with a pull switch near the faucet.  The 
water comes out a curved outlet next to the switch into the sink.  As near as I 
can tell, the outlet on the bottom of box is inaccessible.  But the hose comes 
out at the side of the hot water heater under the sink.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it!

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


> On Apr 27, 2016, at 5:07 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 7
> Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2016 17:04:23 -0700
> From: Alan Liles 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Icebox pump
> Message-ID: <344ba6c1-e56f-4951-ae0d-3a1a82e42...@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii
> 
> Hi all. I was just at the boat cleaning up and I tried the icebox pump by 
> switching it on at the breaker panel. Nothing. I tried to get a look at it 
> but it seems I'd have to take up the galley sole to see the bottom of the 
> icebox so I thought I'd research it a bit before I started disassembling.
> My first question is whether the pump should start when the breaker is 
> switched on. Secondly, is the pump located at the bottom of the box or should 
> I look elsewhere? Also, where do you suppose it discharges?
> 
> Cheers, Al
> SV Elendil 
> C 37+


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Re: Stus-List Icebox pump

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Mine doesn't work either but since I have a refrigeration unit I don't have
too much need for one.  Its not hard to pull up the sole to expose the
pump.  There is a good chance that if mine ever worked then it stopped
working because of freezing temperatures and not being winterized.  It is
easily forgotten.  Mine used to pump to the sink through some faucet like
pipes.  Now it just goes to the bilge.  In fact I think I may have just
removed the pump from the hose system so that it will gravity drain.  I
guess the idea of pumping out to the sink is that you could wash your hands
or dishes with that water.  Sounds kinda gross to me.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 27, 2016 8:05 PM, "Alan Liles via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Hi all. I was just at the boat cleaning up and I tried the icebox pump by
switching it on at the breaker panel. Nothing. I tried to get a look at it
but it seems I'd have to take up the galley sole to see the bottom of the
icebox so I thought I'd research it a bit before I started disassembling.
My first question is whether the pump should start when the breaker is
switched on. Secondly, is the pump located at the bottom of the box or
should I look elsewhere? Also, where do you suppose it discharges?

Cheers, Al
SV Elendil
C 37+
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Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Tohatsu Outboard

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Greatthanks a lot for the replies.  I really appreciate it.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On Apr 27, 2016, at 7:43 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
> wrote:

I had a 2008 tohatsu on my O'day 22 for about 4 years before I sold the boat 
with the engine.  We were very happy with it.  I could raise and lower it 
myself, it was heavy but,  the bracket wasn't in the best shape. It had 
electric start but would pull start quite easily.

Best price at the time was onlineoutboards.com

Danny



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message 
From: Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
>
Date: 4/27/2016 7:14 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy >
Subject: Stus-List Tohatsu Outboard

Hello,

I was thinking of replacing my Suzuki 9.9 with a Tohatsu 9.8.  Does anybody 
have any experience with these?  Also, to save weight I was considering the 
manual tilt.  I was curious if it's difficult to raise and lower?

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
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Stus-List Scanmar Emergency Rudder MRUD

[Adam Trackracer via CnC-List]

t 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> I found an article in the resource center.? It says to contact ...
> 
> For more information - contact Allan.
> 
> It does not work.? Anyone know who Allan is and how to get a hold of him?? I 
> like his bow roller setup on a Mk30II.? I don't have one and really want a 
> roller setup.
> 
> Lorne Serpa
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160427/5baf28f5/attachment-0001.html>
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2016 14:20:32 +
> From: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak
> Message-ID:
>
> <1422710626-1461766832-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1301026035-@b4.c1.bise6.blackberry>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"
> 
> 
> I headed down the the boat yesterday armed with wrenches to try tightening 
> the through-hull and, if that failed, teflon to follow John's  suggestion of 
> backing off the nut and getting some teflon under there.  I met the yard 
> mechanic at the boat as I figured it would be good to have a second person 
> around for this job.
> 
> Well, after 4 days the backing wood had expanded enough to stop the leak. So 
> we both decided it was best to leave well enough alone and just keep an eye 
> on it.  
> 
> Assuming it behaves for the summer, this will be my first job upon haul-out.  
> Boat ownership is a bit masochistic...I've only been in the water 4 days and 
> already I have haul-out jobs planned!
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions...i may have to follow-up with them before the end 
> of the season anyway.
> 
> Mike
> Atacama. 33 mkii
> Toronto 
> Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
> Envoy? sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le r?seau de Bell.
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2016 10:43:48 -0400
> From: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak
> Message-ID:
>

Stus-List Icebox pump

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Hi all. I was just at the boat cleaning up and I tried the icebox pump by 
switching it on at the breaker panel. Nothing. I tried to get a look at it but 
it seems I'd have to take up the galley sole to see the bottom of the icebox so 
I thought I'd research it a bit before I started disassembling.
My first question is whether the pump should start when the breaker is switched 
on. Secondly, is the pump located at the bottom of the box or should I look 
elsewhere? Also, where do you suppose it discharges?

Cheers, Al
SV Elendil 
C 37+
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Re: Stus-List Tohatsu Outboard

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I had a 2008 tohatsu on my O'day 22 for about 4 years before I sold the boat 
with the engine.  We were very happy with it.  I could raise and lower it 
myself, it was heavy but,  the bracket wasn't in the best shape. It had 
electric start but would pull start quite easily. 
Best price at the time was onlineoutboards.com
Danny


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: Mark 
McMenamy via CnC-List  Date: 4/27/2016  7:14 PM  
(GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Mark McMenamy  
Subject: Stus-List Tohatsu Outboard 
Hello,

I was thinking of replacing my Suzuki 9.9 with a Tohatsu 9.8.  Does anybody 
have any experience with these?  Also, to save weight I was considering the 
manual tilt.  I was curious if it's difficult to raise and lower?

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
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Re: Stus-List Tohatsu Outboard

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Hi Mark,
My recently sold C 25 had a Tohatsu (Nissan) 9.8 Long shaft electric
start.  Generally a good motor and was the lightest of the 9.8 electric
starts on the market, making it a good choice for the somewhat flimsy
transom on the 25.   If I had to choose again, I would suggest the Extra
Long Shaft (25" leg) over the standard long shaft.  In hobby horse
conditions on Buzzards Bay, it wasn't unusual for the prop to come out of
the water which put a significant strain on the engine bracket attachment
when the prop dropped back in the water.  I also liked that it had an
alternator that would charge the dual purpose battery on the boat.
Maintenance wise, the engine ran fairly reliably but was sensitive to fuel
that sat in the carb for more than 2-3 weeks.  I bought mine in 2007 and
rebuilt and cleaned the carburetor at least 4 times due to fuel issues.  One
other thing I would have liked would have been a steering lock on the engine
which would have allowed the engine to be locked in on center when motoring
for any distance.  When the motor was revved, the engine tended to self
steer counter clockwise, which meant I often had to hold the boat tiller in
one hand and the engine tiller in the other.  Perhaps other brands of engine
have a steering lock component that would prevent this.  
Lowering the engine meant reaching over the transom and pulling up a lever
that held the engine in the tilt position and then slowly easing the engine
down.  Lifting the engine became more of an issue after an engine lift lock
on the motor that attached to the shift mechanism became detached, meaning
it needed to be actuated manually on the engine leg.  Not a huge problem,
but a bit of a pain.  With a long shaft or Extra long shaft, you will need
to tilt the engine to get it to come completely out of the water when it is
mounted to a transom bracket, even if the bracket has a lifting component to
it.
Even with the simple issues I've mentioned, it was a vast improvement over
the Evinrude 9.9 Sail Twin it replaced, both in terms of noise, fuel
economy, and reliability.
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic 
1983 LF 35
Padanaram, MA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 27, 2016 7:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy 
Subject: Stus-List Tohatsu Outboard

Hello,

I was thinking of replacing my Suzuki 9.9 with a Tohatsu 9.8.  Does anybody
have any experience with these?  Also, to save weight I was considering the
manual tilt.  I was curious if it's difficult to raise and lower?

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!


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Stus-List Tohatsu Outboard

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hello,

I was thinking of replacing my Suzuki 9.9 with a Tohatsu 9.8.  Does anybody 
have any experience with these?  Also, to save weight I was considering the 
manual tilt.  I was curious if it's difficult to raise and lower?

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Stus-List Sliding hatch details

[Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List]

Had my hatch off today so I took a couple of pictures of the slides
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3ND1pRxOxZxLThjMzRjVWs4c28
There must be 24 screws holding the cover on, my impact driver makes real short 
work of taking them out.
Brad
"Pulse" C 33 Mk II
Lake Huron

I'd rather be sailing

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Re: Stus-List New C 37 Owner SSB antenna

[Don Harben via CnC-List]

... perhaps a multipurpose arrangement? 

BBQ connection for dinner? 

Lifeline connection to fend off pirates of the Great Lakes?

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Re: Stus-List New C 37 Owner SSB antenna

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

"early 90's"... ;)

On Wed, Apr 27, 2016 at 2:55 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A sat phone <> SSB. They have some overlap, but each one does things the
> other does not.
>
> Speaking of which, I had a sat phone installation with a stabilized
> antenna that used a geosynchronous satellite in the early 90s. It was a
> PITA because of the 48,000 mile round trip. I learned to start saying “This
> is a sat phone – long delay – do not hang up” before anyone answered
> otherwise all I ever got was hello-hello-click.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Kevin
> Driscoll via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 27, 2016 17:30
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Kevin Driscoll
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New C 37 Owner SSB antenna
>
>
>
> This  would be a
> whole lot easier, cheaper, and not will not devour amps. However, it's not
> good for socializing with others using the same nearly antiquated
> technology ;) *pot is stirred...*
>
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 27, 2016 at 2:00 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> One issue I see with that is the safety issue: 250 watts of RF could cause
> a nasty burn to anyone that happened to contact the mast or other standing
> rigging when you’re transmitting.
>
>
>
> — Fred
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V *Oceanis* (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
>
> On Apr 27, 2016, at 3:34 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> One SSB idea I have been wanting to try:
>
> You add only a bottom insulator. The ground connection from the tuner is
> run to the base of the mast. This loads up a version of a big loop antenna
> that may work better and saves $$$ on insulators. If the backstay
> chainplate does not have a grounding wire and you clean all the salt
> residue off the area, you could give it a try with no insulators at all to
> see what happens.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> 73 de N3HGB
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List New C 37 Owner SSB antenna

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

A sat phone <> SSB. They have some overlap, but each one does things the other 
does not.
Speaking of which, I had a sat phone installation with a stabilized antenna 
that used a geosynchronous satellite in the early 90s. It was a PITA because of 
the 48,000 mile round trip. I learned to start saying “This is a sat phone – 
long delay – do not hang up” before anyone answered otherwise all I ever got 
was hello-hello-click.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin 
Driscoll via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 27, 2016 17:30
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Driscoll
Subject: Re: Stus-List New C 37 Owner SSB antenna

This would be a whole lot 
easier, cheaper, and not will not devour amps. However, it's not good for 
socializing with others using the same nearly antiquated technology ;) pot is 
stirred...

On Wed, Apr 27, 2016 at 2:00 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
> wrote:
One issue I see with that is the safety issue: 250 watts of RF could cause a 
nasty burn to anyone that happened to contact the mast or other standing 
rigging when you’re transmitting.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Apr 27, 2016, at 3:34 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> wrote:

One SSB idea I have been wanting to try:
You add only a bottom insulator. The ground connection from the tuner is run to 
the base of the mast. This loads up a version of a big loop antenna that may 
work better and saves $$$ on insulators. If the backstay chainplate does not 
have a grounding wire and you clean all the salt residue off the area, you 
could give it a try with no insulators at all to see what happens.
Joe
Coquina C 35 MK I
73 de N3HGB

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Re: Stus-List New C 37 Owner SSB antenna

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

This  would be a whole
lot easier, cheaper, and not will not devour amps. However, it's not good
for socializing with others using the same nearly antiquated technology ;) *pot
is stirred...*

On Wed, Apr 27, 2016 at 2:00 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> One issue I see with that is the safety issue: 250 watts of RF could cause
> a nasty burn to anyone that happened to contact the mast or other standing
> rigging when you’re transmitting.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Apr 27, 2016, at 3:34 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> One SSB idea I have been wanting to try:
> You add only a bottom insulator. The ground connection from the tuner is
> run to the base of the mast. This loads up a version of a big loop antenna
> that may work better and saves $$$ on insulators. If the backstay
> chainplate does not have a grounding wire and you clean all the salt
> residue off the area, you could give it a try with no insulators at all to
> see what happens.
> Joe
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> 73 de N3HGB
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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Re: Stus-List New C 37 Owner SSB antenna

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

One issue I see with that is the safety issue: 250 watts of RF could cause a 
nasty burn to anyone that happened to contact the mast or other standing 
rigging when you’re transmitting.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Apr 27, 2016, at 3:34 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> One SSB idea I have been wanting to try:
> You add only a bottom insulator. The ground connection from the tuner is run 
> to the base of the mast. This loads up a version of a big loop antenna that 
> may work better and saves $$$ on insulators. If the backstay chainplate does 
> not have a grounding wire and you clean all the salt residue off the area, 
> you could give it a try with no insulators at all to see what happens.
> Joe
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> 73 de N3HGB

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Re: Stus-List New C 37 Owner SSB antenna

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

One SSB idea I have been wanting to try:
You add only a bottom insulator. The ground connection from the tuner is run to 
the base of the mast. This loads up a version of a big loop antenna that may 
work better and saves $$$ on insulators. If the backstay chainplate does not 
have a grounding wire and you clean all the salt residue off the area, you 
could give it a try with no insulators at all to see what happens.
Joe
Coquina C 35 MK I
73 de N3HGB


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Pennie 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2016 13:48
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Pennie
Subject: Re: Stus-List New C 37 Owner

+1 on the KISS counterpoise.  Yes, you can make one yourself but the pre-made 
thing is nicely finished.  Certainly beats running miles of copper tape!

John

On Apr 26, 2016, at 1:44 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Hi, Jim — welcome to the list!  You may want to take a look at the following 
link for SSB info:

http://www.farallon.us/webstore/Pcup%20SSB.pdf

And the KISS ground-plane system seems to be a nice and simple way to set up 
your ground plane:

http://www.kiss-ssb.com

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Apr 26, 2016, at 12:36 PM, Jim Eagon via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Hi all:

I just purchased "Trinity", a 1984 C7C 37, from her original owner.
She's in top shape and I want to get some things going for this coming summer.
My first question is: where can I find a copy of the original owner's manual 
for the boat?
I have already looked at the c site but the 37 seems to be missing?

Also, are there any experts out here who have installed SSB? I have some ideas 
for
an antenna, but I really would like to know what people have done. I want to 
work 10m-80m
and, with the rod rigging, I'm not sure how to string a wire antenna.

Thank you all for your comments and shared wisdom - I have enjoyed reading the 
posts so far.

Fair winds and 73...
Jim Eagon [K6JFE]

I'd rather be sailing!

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Re: Stus-List Sliding hatch details

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Thanks for your reply Brad.

My cover is screwed in place with more screws than I care to remove. However, 
it has one or two semi-circular limber holes on the port and starboard sides 
for water to flow away--none that I recall on forward part of it. I can believe 
that without these holes, water would sit in there and mold would grow. I would 
cut one or two per side along the cover where it meets the roof--that would 
probably be enough.

Of course if you use butyl tape, you need something to hold the cover pressed 
down on the tape.

Your 1/2 x 1/2 strip of teak sounds like what is missing from mine, as another 
poster mentioned, so I plan to add something equivalent back to my sliding 
hatch if I can--adding the same to the teak boards would require removing all 
the cover screws.

I surmise that my leaks result from the sliding hatch/teak board surface not 
being confined to a larger area. Its difficult to explain, and I may be off 
base entirely, but my educated guess is that without 'guides' of some kind, the 
water from the sliding hatch top surface gets on the boards and, especially 
where the contact surface between the boards and the hatch is skimpy. water 
'wicks' underneath the sliding hatch/board surface and drips into the cabin. 
Since I have no guides, it is possible to close this hatch at a slight angle, 
thereby leaving some of the mating surfaces kind of small.

Getting the water off the sliding hatch and vertically past the upper teak 
board surface (by extending the sliding hatch sides/edges) is probably the best 
solution in my case. 

  

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C 36 XL/kcb
Oriental, NC

 
cenel...@aol.com

 
 
-Original Message-
From: Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Bradley Lumgair 
Sent: Wed, Apr 27, 2016 11:18 am
Subject: Stus-List  Sliding hatch details




Jumping in here, although I have a C 33 MkII my hatch leaks as well but it 
seems to leak between the teak rail and the cabin roof. I'm going to silicon 
the joint from under the cover. Is there supposed to be a drain to let the 
water out from under the cover somewhere? I see a reference to "limber holes" 
in the original post. Mine was siliconed down very tightly and full of black 
mould and mud. I thought I would use butyl tape instead, where should I leave a 
gap? 
Incidentally there is a 1/2 by 1/2 strip of teak on the outer, underside edge 
of the plexiglass sliding hatch to keep it in line, and another on the inside 
back edge to stop it from pulling out. There is also a stop screwed to the 
cabin roof to prevent the hatch from sliding far enough in to pinch fingers 
between the underside of the hatch and the front edge of the opening.
Brad
"Pulse" C 33 MkII
Lake Huron


I'd rather be sailing




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greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List C 34 Packing Size

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Most likely 3/16.

Steve Thomas
C

 Chris Duer via CnC-List  wrote: 
Does anyone know offhand what diameter packing is used on the C 34?
Yanmar 2QM201" shaft
Thanks!
Chris

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Stus-List C 34 Packing Size

[Chris Duer via CnC-List]

Does anyone know offhand what diameter packing is used on the C 34?
Yanmar 2QM201" shaft
Thanks!
Chris___

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Stus-List Sliding hatch details

[Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List]

Jumping in here, although I have a C 33 MkII my hatch leaks as well but it 
seems to leak between the teak rail and the cabin roof. I'm going to silicon 
the joint from under the cover. Is there supposed to be a drain to let the 
water out from under the cover somewhere? I see a reference to "limber holes" 
in the original post. Mine was siliconed down very tightly and full of black 
mould and mud. I thought I would use butyl tape instead, where should I leave a 
gap? 
Incidentally there is a 1/2 by 1/2 strip of teak on the outer, underside edge 
of the plexiglass sliding hatch to keep it in line, and another on the inside 
back edge to stop it from pulling out. There is also a stop screwed to the 
cabin roof to prevent the hatch from sliding far enough in to pinch fingers 
between the underside of the hatch and the front edge of the opening.
Brad
"Pulse" C 33 MkII
Lake Huron


I'd rather be sailing

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Re: Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

When I redid mine 2 years ago I used West epoxy-coated marine ply as backing 
plates. The thinking was easier to shape to the interior hull and the old ones 
had lasted 15+ years anyway. Also I couldn’t find G10 sheet locally at anything 
close to a reasonable price. However we replaced the old wood fairing block for 
the transducer with one fashioned out of epoxy using a plastic food tub as a 
mold.

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C 27 MkIII

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, April 27, 2016 7:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak

Mike, 

The backing plate should be changed to a material that does not rot or corrode, 
like G10 when you haul her.

Joel

On Wed, Apr 27, 2016 at 10:20 AM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List 
 wrote:


  I headed down the the boat yesterday armed with wrenches to try tightening 
the through-hull and, if that failed, teflon to follow John's  suggestion of 
backing off the nut and getting some teflon under there.  I met the yard 
mechanic at the boat as I figured it would be good to have a second person 
around for this job.

  Well, after 4 days the backing wood had expanded enough to stop the leak. So 
we both decided it was best to leave well enough alone and just keep an eye on 
it.

  Assuming it behaves for the summer, this will be my first job upon haul-out.  
Boat ownership is a bit masochistic...I've only been in the water 4 days and 
already I have haul-out jobs planned!

  Thanks for the suggestions...i may have to follow-up with them before the end 
of the season anyway.

  Mike
  Atacama. 33 mkii
  Toronto

  Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
  Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!





-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551



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Re: Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Mike,

The backing plate should be changed to a material that does not rot or
corrode, like G10 when you haul her.

Joel

On Wed, Apr 27, 2016 at 10:20 AM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> I headed down the the boat yesterday armed with wrenches to try tightening
> the through-hull and, if that failed, teflon to follow John's  suggestion
> of backing off the nut and getting some teflon under there.  I met the yard
> mechanic at the boat as I figured it would be good to have a second person
> around for this job.
>
> Well, after 4 days the backing wood had expanded enough to stop the leak.
> So we both decided it was best to leave well enough alone and just keep an
> eye on it.
>
> Assuming it behaves for the summer, this will be my first job upon
> haul-out.  Boat ownership is a bit masochistic...I've only been in the
> water 4 days and already I have haul-out jobs planned!
>
> Thanks for the suggestions...i may have to follow-up with them before the
> end of the season anyway.
>
> Mike
> Atacama. 33 mkii
> Toronto
> Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
> Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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Re: Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I headed down the the boat yesterday armed with wrenches to try tightening the 
through-hull and, if that failed, teflon to follow John's  suggestion of 
backing off the nut and getting some teflon under there.  I met the yard 
mechanic at the boat as I figured it would be good to have a second person 
around for this job.

Well, after 4 days the backing wood had expanded enough to stop the leak. So we 
both decided it was best to leave well enough alone and just keep an eye on it. 
 

Assuming it behaves for the summer, this will be my first job upon haul-out.  
Boat ownership is a bit masochistic...I've only been in the water 4 days and 
already I have haul-out jobs planned!

Thanks for the suggestions...i may have to follow-up with them before the end 
of the season anyway.

Mike
Atacama. 33 mkii
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List Bow Roller

[Allan Rheaume via CnC-List]

I'm still here Lorne ,I've been lurking more than contributing over the last 
few years. My email is all...@kos.net.
Allan RheaumeDrumroll 30-2 # 90


  From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Lorne Serpa 
 Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2016 9:28 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Bow Roller
   
Thanks, I'll start chasing him down.

On Tue, Apr 26, 2016 at 6:26 PM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
 wrote:

The right guy is Allan Rheaume. He was active on the list few years ago and is 
very knowledgable about the 30 mk II. He was in the Lake Ontario area in 2010. 
He answered a lot of my questions when I was looking for a boat at the time.
You should be able to find him easily.
Bruno LachanceBecassine, 33 mkIINew Richmond, Qc.

Envoyé de mon iPad
Le 26 avr. 2016 à 19:16, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  a 
écrit :


Lorne:

I'm not that Allan, but I can send you pictures of the bow roller I added to my 
boat.  Send me your email address.  trya...@alumni.usc.edu

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Tue, Apr 26, 2016 at 4:04 PM, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I found an article in the resource center.  It says to contact ...

For more information - contact Allan.

It does not work.  Anyone know who Allan is and how to get a hold of him?  I 
like his bow roller setup on a Mk30II.  I don't have one and really want a 
roller setup.

Lorne Serpa

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___

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___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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