Stus-List Boat for sale

[Bill Connon via CnC-List]

All,

I've decided that it's time to sell my C My wife is seriously ill and 
my own physical condition has gone downhill from old hockey, football 
and car accident injuries. I listed the boat on the local Kijiji site 
and also with Boulet-Lemelin in Quebec City.

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1978/C%26C-36-2959463/NEW-RICHMOND/Canada#.VzqV7BOgswK
We live in a lightly populated area and so far have had very few 
inquiries. I'm wondering if there might be some interest in the Chaleur 
Bay - Northumberland Strait area.


Bill Connon

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM or 3QM

[svpegasus38]

I guess I didn't explain it right. My engine was raw water cooled. A 
previous owner converted it to fresh water. But left the original raw water 
pump for use as the circulating pump. Inside the water jackets are piles of 
salt ect. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Rick Brass via CnC-List Date: Mon, May 16, 
2016 20:01To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Rick Brass;Subject:Re: Stus-List Yanmar 
3HM or 3QM
If you have two water pumps you have a fresh water cooled engine. The vane pump 
circulates a coolant mixture through the block and to a heat exchanger. The raw 
water pump sends seawater through the heat exchanger and into the exhaust. On a 
raw water cooled engine, the pump circulates seawater through the block and 
into the exhaust. No heat exchanger. IIRC, Yanmar stopped selling raw water 
cooled marine engines sometime in the 80s. From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of svpegasu...@gmail.com via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 16, 2016 8:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: svpegasu...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM or 3QM If it hasn't been replaced it is 
probably a 3QM30. 3QM30F is fresh water cooled. Mine was raw water cooled. It 
has a vane type water pump for a circulating pump and another below the 
alternator for raw water. TOA Marine supply has a table to help you id your 
engine.  Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.  

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM or 3QM

[billbruce--- via CnC-List]

 
  
   My 1980 LF38 has the 3QM30 converted to fresh water cooling. Great engine.
   
   Bill Bruce
  
 


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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM or 3QM

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

If you have two water pumps you have a fresh water cooled engine. The vane pump 
circulates a coolant mixture through the block and to a heat exchanger. The raw 
water pump sends seawater through the heat exchanger and into the exhaust.

 

On a raw water cooled engine, the pump circulates seawater through the block 
and into the exhaust. No heat exchanger. IIRC, Yanmar stopped selling raw water 
cooled marine engines sometime in the 80s.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 16, 2016 8:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: svpegasu...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM or 3QM

 

If it hasn't been replaced it is probably a 3QM30. 3QM30F is fresh water 
cooled. Mine was raw water cooled. It has a vane type water pump for a 
circulating pump and another below the alternator for raw water.

 TOA Marine supply has a table to help you id your engine. 

 

Doug Mountjoy

svPegasus

LF38 

just west of Ballard, WA. 

 

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Re: Stus-List Removing Polyglow

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Jake;

I used Purple Power in years past and it did the job. But the principle
ingredient was something like ammonium hydroxide. 

I just looked at the current SDS for the stuff and it has a different active
ingredient now - some sort of propylene=??X&-hydroxide with a
name about 38 characters long.

Maybe ammonia or ammonium hydroxide would be the best choice.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jake
Brodersen via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 16, 2016 9:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jake Brodersen 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Removing Polyglow

Jerome,

I was told the "Purple Power" from Walmart would remove it.  As it turns
out, that's not the case.  It's an excellent degreaser, but it doesn't do
much for Poly Glow.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jerome
Tauber via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2016 11:42
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jerome Tauber 
Subject: Stus-List Removing Polyglow

Any suggestions for removing Polyglow other than their own product?   Will
Ammonia work?  Thanks.  Jerry. J 27mkV.  


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Re: Stus-List Outboard motor bracket

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Personally, I would not use a fixed mount. 

You want the longest shaft you can get on the engine, and the lowest
practical mounting, in order to get the prop as deep as possible. That's in
order to avoid the prop cavitating when the boat hobby horses in a big chop.
With the motor fixed in a low position, I doubt that the power tilt and trim
would get the lower end of the motor out of the water. At least it would not
with the extra-long shaft 9.9 Tohatsu on my 25, Belle.

Rick Brass
Imzadi  C 38 mk 2
la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2016 11:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy 
Subject: Stus-List Outboard motor bracket

Hello all,

I've figured out that my outboard motor bracket is a Garlick model rated for
two stroke models rated at 85 lbs.  The previous owner put on a four stroke
at 120 lbs so I need to replace the bracket.  Has anyone done this?My
transom is reinforced with an aluminum sheet and is very sturdy so that's
taken care of.   I was thinking if going to a Garlick model that is rated
for four strokes.  There are two models and I was thinking of buying the
heavier duty of the two that gives 15" of travel.  I was also thinking of
just putting a fixed mount on the back as I only use the electric trim to
tilt the motor up.  Any opinions on this idea?   Any advice is greatly
appreciated.

Thanks!

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
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Re: Stus-List Older C Bow Navigational lights

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Older model side lights are probably either deck horizontal mount Perko 963
or the in hull side lights.  Replacements for the in hull lights are made
by either Sea Dog or Whitecap.

I just had to drill out the bow casting and install heli coils for Touche's
Perko 963 side lights.

Dennis C.

On Mon, May 16, 2016 at 6:35 PM, Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You can actually get Perko lights as a direct replacement.  However, you
> are going to have to drill out the broken screws
> which isn't going to be fun...as otherwise the degrees of light will not
> be correct.
>
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Re: Stus-List Older C Bow Navigational lights

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

The 35-1 has the same lights, when I got Weatherly one of the screws was 
already broken off and apparently had been that way for years. I drilled 
and tapped a new hole adjacent to the old one, and then drilled through 
the flange and gasket of the new Perko fixture.  A bit of 4200 on under 
the flange seems to have done the trick, though I'm guessing I voided 
the warrantee...


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 5/16/2016 10:00 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:


The navigation lights on the 25 mk1 are Perko figure 963 lights. I'd 
suggest using the stainless ones, as they are more durable than the 
chrome over brass. But the short life I experienced on my boat was 
from deterioration of the plastic lenses.


There is no surprise that you broke screws -- stainless machine screws 
tapped into the aluminum bow fitting. I broke only 1 of the 6 screws 
when I replace the lights on Belle several years ago. Just lucky I 
guess. I had to drill out the broken screw, and then drilled and 
tapped for a larger diameter screw. Be sure to put anti-seize or 
TefGel in the screws when you replace the lights.


Rick Brass

*Imzadi *C 38 mk 2

*la Belle Aurore *C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Bill Coleman via CnC-List

*Sent:* Monday, May 16, 2016 9:27 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Bill Coleman 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Older C Bow Navigational lights

It would help if you said how old.  If it is as old as mine,  wing it 
,  give it some thought and I am sure you can do better, those were 
kind of home - made. I mean where they have a green plastic cover 
screwed to the side ..its not like you are looking for a replacement 
part for an Olds Tornado.  But I will have to say,  that teardrop 
look,  looks kind of sharp


Bill Coleman



 Original message 
From: Andrew Deveau via CnC-List >

Date: 5/16/2016 7:25 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Andrew Deveau >

Subject: Stus-List Older C Bow Navigational lights


Would anyone have any options for bow navigational lights on an older C
25.

I had one of the lights burn-out on the bow. I'n my attempt to remove the
light I was successful in remove one of three screws and managed to break
the other two light.

Would anyone have any thoughts or ideas on, and or suggestions on where I
could go next? (Ie drill three new holes?, and or new lights).

Thank you

C 25
Dry Red
Nova Scotia.




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Contributions are greatly appreciated!




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Re: Stus-List Older C Bow Navigational lights

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The navigation lights on the 25 mk1 are Perko figure 963 lights. I’d suggest 
using the stainless ones, as they are more durable than the chrome over brass. 
But the short life I experienced on my boat was from deterioration of the 
plastic lenses.

 

There is no surprise that you broke screws – stainless machine screws tapped 
into the aluminum bow fitting. I broke only 1 of the 6 screws when I replace 
the lights on Belle several years ago. Just lucky I guess. I had to drill out 
the broken screw, and then drilled and tapped for a larger diameter screw. Be 
sure to put anti-seize or TefGel in the screws when you replace the lights.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 16, 2016 9:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Older C Bow Navigational lights

 

It would help if you said how old.  If it is as old as mine,  wing it ,  give 
it some thought and I am sure you can do better, those were kind of home - 
made. I mean where they have a green plastic cover screwed to the side ..its 
not like you are looking for a replacement part for an Olds Tornado.  But I 
will have to say,  that teardrop look,  looks kind of sharp 

 

 

 

Bill Coleman 



 Original message 
From: Andrew Deveau via CnC-List  > 
Date: 5/16/2016 7:25 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   
Cc: Andrew Deveau  > 
Subject: Stus-List Older C Bow Navigational lights 


Would anyone have any options for bow navigational lights on an older C
25.

I had one of the lights burn-out on the bow. I'n my attempt to remove the
light I was successful in remove one of three screws and managed to break
the other two light.

Would anyone have any thoughts or ideas on, and or suggestions on where I
could go next? (Ie drill three new holes?, and or new lights).

Thank you

C 25
Dry Red
Nova Scotia.




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Re: Stus-List Removing Polyglow

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Jerome,

I was told the "Purple Power" from Walmart would remove it.  As it turns
out, that's not the case.  It's an excellent degreaser, but it doesn't do
much for Poly Glow.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jerome
Tauber via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2016 11:42
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jerome Tauber 
Subject: Stus-List Removing Polyglow

Any suggestions for removing Polyglow other than their own product?   Will
Ammonia work?  Thanks.  Jerry. J 27mkV.  


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Re: Stus-List Older C Bow Navigational lights

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

It would help if you said how old.  If it is as old as mine,  wing it ,  give 
it some thought and I am sure you can do better, those were kind of home - 
made. I mean where they have a green plastic cover screwed to the side ..its 
not like you are looking for a replacement part for an Olds Tornado.  But I 
will have to say,  that teardrop look,  looks kind of sharp 


Bill Coleman 

 Original message 
From: Andrew Deveau via CnC-List  
Date: 5/16/2016  7:25 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Andrew Deveau  
Subject: Stus-List Older C Bow Navigational lights 


Would anyone have any options for bow navigational lights on an older C
25.

I had one of the lights burn-out on the bow. I'n my attempt to remove the
light I was successful in remove one of three screws and managed to break
the other two light.

Would anyone have any thoughts or ideas on, and or suggestions on where I
could go next? (Ie drill three new holes?, and or new lights).

Thank you

C 25
Dry Red
Nova Scotia.




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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM or 3QM

[svpegasus38]

If it hasn't been replaced it is probably a 3QM30. 3QM30F is fresh water 
cooled. Mine was raw water cooled. It has a vane type water pump for a 
circulating pump and another below the alternator for raw water. TOA Marine 
supply has a table to help you id your engine. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Brian Davis via CnC-List Date: Mon, May 16, 
2016 11:45To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Brian Davis;Subject:Stus-List Yanmar 
3HM or 3QM
Hi all,
Hope your weekend was sunny and breezy like mine in south FL.
I'm trying to determine exactly which Yanmar is in my 1980...  Does anybody 
have the same and knows the difference?
Thanks and regards,

-- 
Brian Davis1980 C Landfall 38"Nina"
Virus-free. www.avast.com   

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Re: Stus-List Outboard motor bracket

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Great.  Thanks a lot.  I bought one today.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

> On May 16, 2016, at 9:28 AM, Bmue via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Hi mark,
> We put a garelick motor mount on. Makes lifting the outboard a breeze. 
> Sometimes it can be a bit difficult to get it in the lowest position. But 
> would definitely recommend.
> Installed with an aluminium backing plate . 
> http://www.marineoutfitters.ca/mobile/?page=shop=10025%7C11386%7C11388=37208895.
> Make sure you take the weight of the motor into account when determining 
> installation height of the mount. 
> 
> Bettina
> C 25 Savannah
> 
>> On May 15, 2016, at 21:26, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello all,
>> 
>> I've figured out that my outboard motor bracket is a Garlick model rated for 
>> two stroke models rated at 85 lbs.  The previous owner put on a four stroke 
>> at 120 lbs so I need to replace the bracket.  Has anyone done this?My 
>> transom is reinforced with an aluminum sheet and is very sturdy so that's 
>> taken care of.   I was thinking if going to a Garlick model that is rated 
>> for four strokes.  There are two models and I was thinking of buying the 
>> heavier duty of the two that gives 15" of travel.  I was also thinking of 
>> just putting a fixed mount on the back as I only use the electric trim to 
>> tilt the motor up.  Any opinions on this idea?   Any advice is greatly 
>> appreciated.
>> 
>> Thanks!
>> 
>> Mark McMenamy
>> C 25 "Icicle"
>> Fort Pierce FL
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Stus-List Older C Bow Navigational lights

[ssjohnson via CnC-List]

Jeff & Andrew...I replaced all of my Nav lights with Hella NaviLED-pro Pro 
lights.  Crystal clear bezel, relatively easy direct replacement,  completely 
sealed, 2m leas wire.   Bright and similar to existing lights.  Slightly 
largerI had ss backing plates cut then drilled/tapped mounting screws.  No 
compromises.Spencer Johnson'84 LF 38 "Alegria " #165Racine,  WI 

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Re: Stus-List Older C Bow Navigational lights

[William Walker via CnC-List]

do you have the tear drop lighrs?  I have some I removed I would give you.  

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Monday, May 16, 2016 Andrew Deveau via CnC-List  
wrote:

Would anyone have any options for bow navigational lights on an older C
25.

I had one of the lights burn-out on the bow. I'n my attempt to remove the
light I was successful in remove one of three screws and managed to break
the other two light.

Would anyone have any thoughts or ideas on, and or suggestions on where I
could go next? (Ie drill three new holes?, and or new lights).

Thank you

C 25
Dry Red
Nova Scotia.




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Re: Stus-List Older C Bow Navigational lights

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

You can actually get Perko lights as a direct replacement. However, you 
are going to have to drill out the broken screws
which isn't going to be fun...as otherwise the degrees of light will not 
be correct.


I've been thinking of replacements for my C 30, but haven't come up 
with a good option.  I may do what we did
on another boat and that is put an LED tri-light on the top of the mast 
for sailing, and then leave the incandescents on
deck for motoring (as the masthead light has to be above the running 
lights).


I have thought about putting a couple of these on the pulpit mounting so 
I could run the wires down through where

the old lights were...but I'm not sure I could get the angle just right...

http://ca.binnacle.com/Lights-Aqua-Signal-Series-25-&-33/c23_188/p8080/AQUA-SIGNAL-SERIES-33-LED-LIGHT-PORT-BLACK/product_info.html

Interested to see what others might come up with.

--
Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax

On 5/16/2016 8:25 PM, Andrew Deveau via CnC-List wrote:

Would anyone have any options for bow navigational lights on an older C
25.

I had one of the lights burn-out on the bow. I'n my attempt to remove the
light I was successful in remove one of three screws and managed to break
the other two light.

Would anyone have any thoughts or ideas on, and or suggestions on where I
could go next? (Ie drill three new holes?, and or new lights).

Thank you

C 25
Dry Red
Nova Scotia.




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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Stus-List Older C Bow Navigational lights

[Andrew Deveau via CnC-List]

Would anyone have any options for bow navigational lights on an older C
25.

I had one of the lights burn-out on the bow. I'n my attempt to remove the
light I was successful in remove one of three screws and managed to break
the other two light.

Would anyone have any thoughts or ideas on, and or suggestions on where I
could go next? (Ie drill three new holes?, and or new lights).

Thank you

C 25
Dry Red
Nova Scotia.




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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM or 3QM

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Brian,

My 1983 Landfall 35 has a Yanmar 3HMF with a Hurth V-Drive.  My owner’s manual 
lists the standard engines for the Landfall Series (likely for the same year) 
and it lists the 3HM engine for the Landfall 38 as well.  As discussed several 
of the 38 Landfall owners have been dissecting their Paragon drives so it is 
obvious that not all the applications will be the same, especially on earlier 
year models.  

On my 3HM, there’s an engine serial number plate on the front (the side with 
the belts) on the side opposite of the alternator.  The 3HM is a 27-30 HP rated 
engine.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 16, 2016 3:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM or 3QM

 

Brian — that will probably be a 3QM30 Yanmar.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On May 16, 2016, at 1:45 PM, Brian Davis via CnC-List  > wrote:

 

Hi all,

 

Hope your weekend was sunny and breezy like mine in south FL.

 

I'm trying to determine exactly which Yanmar is in my 1980...  Does anybody 
have the same and knows the difference?

 

Thanks and regards,

-- 

Brian Davis

1980 C Landfall 38

"Nina"

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM or 3QM

[Larry via CnC-List]

Brain

It could be A 3HM, that is what mine is, although a couple of years newer (86).

The most distinguishable difference is that the 3GM can be started manual and 
the 3HM cannot. There are plenty of other differences.

However you should have an ID plate on the side or front.

Good luck

Larry

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 16, 2016 12:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM or 3QM

 

Brian — that will probably be a 3QM30 Yanmar.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On May 16, 2016, at 1:45 PM, Brian Davis via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

Hi all,

 

Hope your weekend was sunny and breezy like mine in south FL.

 

I'm trying to determine exactly which Yanmar is in my 1980...  Does anybody 
have the same and knows the difference?

 

Thanks and regards,

-- 

Brian Davis

1980 C Landfall 38

"Nina

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM or 3QM

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Brian — that will probably be a 3QM30 Yanmar.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 16, 2016, at 1:45 PM, Brian Davis via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Hope your weekend was sunny and breezy like mine in south FL.
> 
> I'm trying to determine exactly which Yanmar is in my 1980...  Does anybody 
> have the same and knows the difference?
> 
> Thanks and regards,
> 
> -- 
> Brian Davis
> 1980 C Landfall 38
> "Nina"
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM or 3QM

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

There should be a plate on the front of the engine.  It could be a 3GM30.

On Mon, May 16, 2016 at 2:45 PM, Brian Davis via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Hope your weekend was sunny and breezy like mine in south FL.
>
> I'm trying to determine exactly which Yanmar is in my 1980...  Does
> anybody have the same and knows the difference?
>
> Thanks and regards,
>
> --
> Brian Davis
> 1980 C Landfall 38
> "Nina"
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_3651883981857181290_DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Yanmar 3HM or 3QM

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Hi all,

Hope your weekend was sunny and breezy like mine in south FL.

I'm trying to determine exactly which Yanmar is in my 1980...  Does anybody
have the same and knows the difference?

Thanks and regards,

-- 
Brian Davis
1980 C Landfall 38
"Nina"


Virus-free.
www.avast.com

<#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
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Stus-List Bilge setup for 29-2

[Derek McLeod via CnC-List]

Hi,

Wondering what other 29-2 owners have for their bilge pump setups?

I have a manual pump from the cockpit and 2" hose for that. I am thinking
to fasten it with a nylon hose clip to the upper end of the bilge for big
water removal and have the electric one at the lower end. I would like it
fastened in position so it can't move and interfere with the float switch.

There is a small 600 gph electric pump otherwise with a 3/4" outlet hose
connected with an old Rule float switch. I would like to replace the float
switch since it hasn't been very reliable. In trying to read about newer
options I can't seem to find much consistency on what's good. This bilge
also has two 1" keel bolts that make mounting a pump and switch a bit
tricky.

The Ultra Pump Switch Junior seems to rate high online, but is not
particularly easy to find in Canada.

Just buy a new Rule switch and pump and plan to replace every few years?

Derek McLeod
Aileron 1983 C 29-2
Toronto, ON
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Re: Stus-List Outboard motor bracket

[Bmue via CnC-List]

Hi mark,
We put a garelick motor mount on. Makes lifting the outboard a breeze. 
Sometimes it can be a bit difficult to get it in the lowest position. But would 
definitely recommend.
Installed with an aluminium backing plate . 
http://www.marineoutfitters.ca/mobile/?page=shop=10025%7C11386%7C11388=37208895.
 
Make sure you take the weight of the motor into account when determining 
installation height of the mount. 

Bettina
C 25 Savannah

> On May 15, 2016, at 21:26, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I've figured out that my outboard motor bracket is a Garlick model rated for 
> two stroke models rated at 85 lbs.  The previous owner put on a four stroke 
> at 120 lbs so I need to replace the bracket.  Has anyone done this?My 
> transom is reinforced with an aluminum sheet and is very sturdy so that's 
> taken care of.   I was thinking if going to a Garlick model that is rated for 
> four strokes.  There are two models and I was thinking of buying the heavier 
> duty of the two that gives 15" of travel.  I was also thinking of just 
> putting a fixed mount on the back as I only use the electric trim to tilt the 
> motor up.  Any opinions on this idea?   Any advice is greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Mark McMenamy
> C 25 "Icicle"
> Fort Pierce FL
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Stus-List Sikaflex 295

[Harry Hallgring via CnC-List]

Would anyone need 3/4 of a tube of Sikaflex 295, black?  I opened it yesterday 
and will eventually throw it away when it hardens!




Harry Hallgring
hhallgr...@icloud.com
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